Well great.... now i need to spend a bunch of $$$ at preformance 670.... thanks alot bud😑 also...you know whats worse the drinking a coke bottle spitter??? Drinking an old beer spitter🤮
Lol! I liked that simulated engine sound you made when you was pulling on the throttle.. Crazy stuff I do also..And that s**t eatin grin you had when that monster was really running..another great video! Please keep um coming👍
@@SendItJonBoats thanks I got someone who nows him personally and he got me is number thanks though but I’m having a problem with my motor we’re when I run full speed it kill but if I pump gas in to it it doesn’t what should I get to fix that. Thanks for responding to me
I commend you for not using billet! I think its a lot of extra work and money and the v-twins are already enough dinero to begin with. One issue with the carb: V-twins have weird timing and a single carb/single exhaust often don't resonate correctly, leading to uneven fuel mix & performance between the cylinders. 2 cheap carbs are often better than one expensive one. Same for mufflers, that way you can get each bank to run right individually.
My biggest question is why would the snap on dealer have any reaction to this project? The only thing mine really cares about is when I buy a toolbox from the Matco truck instead of his. Lol
LOL, I paid of my debts at the rape van (snap on truck) years ago... I refuse to get back on there now. I buy all my tools from Harbor Freight because I am cheap LOL
I am looking to build a motor just like years. And was wondering Exactly what you are using. And what? Long tail kit, you ran on your 670 Harbor freight motor.
Your motor build was awesome! I'm building a yamaha 3 cylinder 2 stroke 25 hp into a beast! It's going on a 1554 prop tunnel. Still looking for the hull but I have the motor! I wish I could post pictures on RUclips because it's pretty sexy!
I basically built the same thing with billet rods in the Pistons in performance 670 cam I use their roller rockers and they’re shorter pushrods cause I had the head smelled but I’m getting a tick and sound. Sounds like it’s coming from the cam gear. Does that sound like it’s the motor you built does it sound like it’s got a lift or tick
An hour of run time and running the heck out of it! What happened to break-in time? I went the recommended 20 hrs, it never hit more than 3/4 rpm. Nice warm ups Pryor to working it reasonably! Now I work it hard, no fires or issues!
It was already broke in for about 30 hours before I tore it down, and I did not remove the pistons, rods, or crank so it will be fine. That thing will rev to 9k rpm if I let it, those little blips on the throttle were about 4k rpms so no where near damage range.
Okay, where do you get off calling a fly back fart valve a kanuder valve. Get your terms right. Lol you’re the only other person I’ve heard use kanuder valve. Must be regional, I’m a couple counties below you. Enjoy your videos.
Hey man! I have a 14ft boat and I’m looking to get either the 420cc or the 459cc max. Do you think it would be a better idea to get the 459cc since it is supposed to be a better motor or get the 420 and upgrade it? Also the 420 has the electric start and the 459 does not, do you think an electric start along with the pull start is ideal?
bigger is always better. They do not have a lot of aftermarket accessories yet but they will after time. I prefer the electric start because I am fat an lazy
Some people call it China... I call it egg roll land, or the place where all the tools at Harbor Freight are made LOL. I still love Harbor Freight though.
No issues as of yet, but I plan on getting a new cam soon, so I do a break down of the engine and see how everything looks now that it has hours on it.
Never caught on fire yet, but have had; hull holes, paint gouges, lost anchors, busted trolling motor shafts, chewed up props, screaming smokey tires on the ramp, Rubbermaid totes splitting open because stuffed too full of carp with arrow holes in em, tangled string leading to lost arrow (2 times), fall in water (she was driving), snake fall in boat, snaked chopped to pieces in boat, slashes in boat floor cause by killing snake. Again no fires but I certainly do SEND IT!
Where do I find one of those snazzy t-handled torque wrench tools? Do I have to buy individual tools for each metric size; or do they interchangeable hex keys? Nice video.
bro I bought a bass boat the motor is old and crusty don't run half the time so this is the answer to my problem also the Corona fishers like you said pressure so I need to find new fishing out in the pucker brush Thank You.
Great work!! Do you know if Jeff still makes the exhaust? Don’t want to blow up his inbox with unicorns ifs he’s not anymore. Looking to purchase one and want something different other than the backwater performance exhaust.
@@SendItJonBoats Awesome. Thanks for replying. Any chance you can send me his Facebook link again. The one attached to the video wasn’t working for me. And when search his name a ton of people came up. Thanks again.
I have good luck using dollar store toothpaste for valve lapping. Original white toothpaste without the flavor gel stuff. Obviously not the best but for cheap motors it gets the job done.
Nice!!!! We haven't done a vtwin build yet. A 670 without politicians has to be 🔥. Hopefully not literally this time 🤣. #azspamcan is a handful with just a built gx200 in it for 10fter. I'm excited for this one.
You should turbocharge one of these things. That would be sick. I’ve seen other people do it but I’ve never seen them put it on a boat. Now that I think about it there’s probably a reason you wouldn’t want that on a boat but it would still be sick.
@@SendItJonBoats it’s really not that expensive. I personally haven’t seen an add on RUclips in over 3 years. Payed for RUclips premium (at the time it was RUclips Red) so I could watch Cobra Kai and haven’t looked back since lol
Gotta get those politicians out of there. Use that space for some more horses. Besides, it's easier to clean up after horses than trying to clean up after politicians.
Yeah I wish I could turn it around but it wouldn't work. I even thought about putting a 90 degree tube on there to get it up away from the exhaust, but it seems to be working fine.
Ordered me some of those 12.5 hp gain per oil filter. I need a few of those on my truck.😉 Removed the governor but not gonna run over 5K rpms? Motor sounds great.
Yes... without Amazon my world would melt, the planets would be mis-aligned, and aliens would transcend to the rivers of earth and turn all the fish into cross eyed albino squirrels with mermaid fins! So yeah go buy some amazon products so I can make 3 cents.
Liked the work in the motor. Had a 9HP Go-devil for years! Upgraded a few times. After watching I miss my old long tail and I want to change to Mikuni Carb on my Pro-drive. More POWER BABY! Mine runs 4,250 or so fully loaded. When you get yours wired come help me! I will show you some places in Alabama to run MM!
Just a little technical clarification. So long as the rust isn't so thick that you can't turn the flywheel, sanding the rust off the magnets doesn't do anything for the modern electronic ignitions. Setting the proper gap between the coil legs and the flywheel is important though. It should be set to prexactly one business card thousandths. (Please Note: Actual specs for the Harbor Davidson 670cc V-Twin Engine are: Flywheel/Ignition Coil Gap: 0.0015" - 0.0018" Intake Valve Lash: 0.005" - 0.007" Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.007" - 0.009"
@@SendItJonBoatsGreetings, this message is for Mr. It. Mr. Send It, I was reviewing my previous comment, and thought I had screwed up, but actually, I was mistaken. THE COIL GAP OF 0.040" IS WRONG! I don't even know which hole I pulled that number out of. (The 1 business card thousandths is correct though.) It will probably (maybe) run at 0.040" but there's a good chance you'll be leaving a good bit of whoop ass still in the can. I'm including the correct coil gap and valve lash numbers below. I'm also correcting my previous comment. Goodness knows I don't want to be creating any more than my fair share of confusion. Please accept my, ever so humble, apologies. Flywheel/Ignition Coil Gap: 0.0015" - 0.0018" Intake Valve Lash: 0.005" - 0.007" Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.007" - 0.009" I'm still working on tracking down the timing and frequency settings for the canooter valve modulator, and the torque specs on the nuzzler bearing. I'll have that to you forthwith and post haste. Eventually.
@@SendItJonBoats Sorry about the delay. I got involved with another project . . . I'm sure you know how that goes. Determining Proper Settings for Canooter Brand Valve Modulation Units. (Specifications included are for the analog series of Canooters. Specifications for the digital versions are not included.) Canooter brand modulators are considered to be the "Gold Standard" for valve control in attenuator and filter valve modulation applications. The robustness and longevity of these units means it is not uncommon for Canooter units to be handed down from one generation to the next. We are quite proud of this legacy. Today though, most of the high end modern units are digital, and are pretty much plug'n'play. They are programmed to function in a wide range of applications. The programs include algorithmic diagnostics that control the automatic setting adjustment parameters. Thanks to this kind of forward thinking by the Canooter brand design engineering department, retrograde deficiency errors or failures are practically unheard of. This reliability has lead to the exclusive use of Canooter brand modulators throughout the entire dilithium mining and processing industry. We are proud and honored to be recognized and trusted by this important industry. However, we realize that we would have never obtained such an achievement if it were not for the longtime support we have enjoyed from our millions of individual owners. Most smaller or independent operators continue to use the older, simpler, analog units. These analog Canooters have long been praised for their "Set it and forget it" ease of use. Of course, after enough time and use, even these analog units will need to be recalibrated. We offer the most advanced Canooter diagnostic tools available. These are used extensively by the dilithium mining and processing companies. However, this caliber of recalibration instruments are financially out of reach of the small independent operator. To address this inequity, we have continued to offer our older analog meters. These are the kind that the "Little Guys" can afford and use, while still having great results. Just follow the simple instructions below, and you can be confident that your old Canooter will be right back to original factory calibration, and will perform at peak efficiency. Once recalibrated and reinstalled, your Canooter brand modulator will give you many more years of trouble free service. First, locate and remove the turbo fantabulator unit from your machine. NOTE: Turbo fantabulator units are most often installed in close proximity to the primary recipitory bearing trunnions. Second, secure your turbo fantabulator to the bench. NOTE: Extreme care should be exercised while securing the turbo fantabulator in order to avoid damage to the secondary wobble vane assembly. Third, separate the Canooter from the turbo fantabulator housing. Remove any refractory debris that may have collected in the Canooters inlet port bypass chamber. (Remember that all refractory debris should be handled and disposed of according to the biohazard protocols applicable to your region.) Fourth, securely connect your Canooter brand analog recalibration meter to the cleaned inlet port bypass chamber. NOTE: Insure the recalibration meter is in an upright position. If the meter is leaning, it will bias the results of the recalibration process. It is especially important that your meter does not lean to the left. Operating your Canooter unit when adjusted to specifications of a left leaning meter will result in a catastrophic failure. It is reccomended that left leaning bias be avoided. Fifth: prepare the face of a two pound hammer with a wedge of fresh lemon. (Rubberbands may be neccessary to secure the lemon wedge firmly in place.) Sixth: Using the bottom of the hammer handle (in the same fashion you would while installing a piston into a cylinder), tap the Canooter modulator output shaft. Continue tapping the shaft until the TLAR* indication is clearly displayed on the meter. Congratulations, you have successfully recalibrated your Canooter valve modulator. Reinstall all components, reverse order from removal. You can expect top performance from your machine, as well as an increase in fishing yields and the reversal of any male pattern baldness being experienced by you or close fishing buddies. *TLAR = That Looks About Right
Sir, can you please on the next time you use a growl as a reference of torque assimilate a number based on the intensity of the growl so we can make a better reference to try to replicate it.
The stock muffler is about as quiet as it gets. You could add an additional muffler but I have never tried that. I wonder if it would choke the airflow down too much.
@@SendItJonBoats yup that is the issue I'm in Louisiana and sometimes I want to keep stealth to get close to gators but I want the power and above all I don't want to hurt reliability,a little slower is something that can be lived with
@@SendItJonBoats I’m basically doing this project to get an understanding of boat theory as you might say, like understanding the handling dynamics of having a wider boat or a longer boat and power to weight and so on
I have been thinking about getting a John boat and a mud motor to get back to the fishing hole for a while now. Thank you for all the tips and tricks.😊
screamin n cussin is needed when ur tryna get that big block chevy sound outta these and there more governed than north korea
HA HA HAAAAAAA that was aweome! You are my hero for the rest of the day!
@@SendItJonBoats 😂
Well great.... now i need to spend a bunch of $$$ at preformance 670.... thanks alot bud😑 also...you know whats worse the drinking a coke bottle spitter??? Drinking an old beer spitter🤮
Immediately put a mikuni on a predator the stock carbs are straight up 💩
You are 1000000000000% correct, those stock carbs are nothing but problems. Mine caught on fire.
Scooter should keep he’s thoughts in his parents basement
LoL. Scooter can't help it that his brain is mashed potatoes... but somebody gotta call him out!
Does anyone else find it strange that the governor looks like a golf club and that all governors like to play golf 🤔🤔🤔🤔😂
That's how you earn a sub: entertaining, direct, clear editing, and bonus if I learn something!
Lol! I liked that simulated engine sound you made when you was pulling on the throttle.. Crazy stuff I do also..And that s**t eatin grin you had when that monster was really running..another great video! Please keep um coming👍
HAA HAAA... I felt my simulated engine revs were pretty accurate. LOL. Many more videos on the way. We got to get this monster in the water soon!
Even though I doubt I would ever buy a Mud Motor I still love watching your videos
What in the world , why does it look like the piston is under rusty water at 2:08 when you took the head off
I tried to get that exhaust but he never responded so could you maybe help me because I really like that exhaust and would love one
Apparently he has stopped making them because he aint respoinding to people. I will see what I can do to start making them.
@@SendItJonBoats thanks I got someone who nows him personally and he got me is number thanks though but I’m having a problem with my motor we’re when I run full speed it kill but if I pump gas in to it it doesn’t what should I get to fix that. Thanks for responding to me
I commend you for not using billet! I think its a lot of extra work and money and the v-twins are already enough dinero to begin with. One issue with the carb: V-twins have weird timing and a single carb/single exhaust often don't resonate correctly, leading to uneven fuel mix & performance between the cylinders. 2 cheap carbs are often better than one expensive one. Same for mufflers, that way you can get each bank to run right individually.
Good info thanks for sharing. I probably will never go bullet on this engine, I never turn it up past 5k rpms anyway
Was it made by Ford that's probably why just saying man just saying
LMAO. Found on River Dead! LOL must be a Ford Product
Remember if it’s leaking oil it’s got oil
It's just sweating torque
Very good point... It's better when it's nice and slippery from the leaks.
Cus i dont like politicians inside my motors... truer words have never been spoken
LOL thanks Alex. Glad you enjoyed the video
Wheres the video of it running on the boat ???? That's what I wanna see next
I have done a few videos of it running. They are on the chsnnel.
do you know where i can get a new right cylinder head with bolts?
Maybe ebay, or one of the facebook groups.
My biggest question is why would the snap on dealer have any reaction to this project? The only thing mine really cares about is when I buy a toolbox from the Matco truck instead of his. Lol
LOL, I paid of my debts at the rape van (snap on truck) years ago... I refuse to get back on there now. I buy all my tools from Harbor Freight because I am cheap LOL
LMFAO dude you are too much so entertaining awesome shit......
Thanks Wilson! Gotta keep the laughs going, life is too short not to have fun!
Hahaha. Awesome man! That's a piece of shit!!hahahah
Thanks
I just did my transom with plywood
Cool thanks for watching.
I am looking to build a motor just like years. And was wondering Exactly what you are using. And what? Long tail kit, you ran on your 670 Harbor freight motor.
Your motor build was awesome! I'm building a yamaha 3 cylinder 2 stroke 25 hp into a beast! It's going on a 1554 prop tunnel. Still looking for the hull but I have the motor! I wish I could post pictures on RUclips because it's pretty sexy!
Man, you kept me laughing throughout the video! You earned a subscriber, buddy!
Awesome, thank you! Glad you enjoyed
pulse pump diaphragm may have ruptured allowing raw fuel to be sucked in straight to the crankcase.....something to be mindful of
Got a question I did the 670 performance carb upgrade and I’m having trouble finding a throttle lever that works what did you end up using
I basically built the same thing with billet rods in the Pistons in performance 670 cam I use their roller rockers and they’re shorter pushrods cause I had the head smelled but I’m getting a tick and sound. Sounds like it’s coming from the cam gear. Does that sound like it’s the motor you built does it sound like it’s got a lift or tick
An hour of run time and running the heck out of it! What happened to break-in time? I went the recommended 20 hrs, it never hit more than 3/4 rpm. Nice warm ups Pryor to working it reasonably! Now I work it hard, no fires or issues!
It was already broke in for about 30 hours before I tore it down, and I did not remove the pistons, rods, or crank so it will be fine. That thing will rev to 9k rpm if I let it, those little blips on the throttle were about 4k rpms so no where near damage range.
Okay, where do you get off calling a fly back fart valve a kanuder valve. Get your terms right. Lol you’re the only other person I’ve heard use kanuder valve. Must be regional, I’m a couple counties below you. Enjoy your videos.
LMAO... fly back fart diverter valve, haven't heard that one before! Yee Yee.
Must be a Georgia thing, we are kinda special here!
Hey man! I have a 14ft boat and I’m looking to get either the 420cc or the 459cc max. Do you think it would be a better idea to get the 459cc since it is supposed to be a better motor or get the 420 and upgrade it? Also the 420 has the electric start and the 459 does not, do you think an electric start along with the pull start is ideal?
bigger is always better. They do not have a lot of aftermarket accessories yet but they will after time. I prefer the electric start because I am fat an lazy
Egg roll land lol
Some people call it China... I call it egg roll land, or the place where all the tools at Harbor Freight are made LOL. I still love Harbor Freight though.
@@SendItJonBoats same here. Some stuff there is really good, like those 10 dollar angle grinders
@@johncarlberg4481 I love my harbor freight stuff, I just got all new Bauer cordless tools and I am really impressed.
I love your torque setting.... hgggg right there. Nice. Straight hillbilly
Does any one know what flywheel this dudule used?
He didn't. Stock flywheel
@@SendItJonBoats Thanks for the info!
How are your push rods holding up since you kept them stock but upgraded to heavier valve springs? Would you recommend upgrading to steel push rods?
No issues as of yet, but I plan on getting a new cam soon, so I do a break down of the engine and see how everything looks now that it has hours on it.
Never caught on fire yet, but have had; hull holes, paint gouges, lost anchors, busted trolling motor shafts, chewed up props, screaming smokey tires on the ramp, Rubbermaid totes splitting open because stuffed too full of carp with arrow holes in em, tangled string leading to lost arrow (2 times), fall in water (she was driving), snake fall in boat, snaked chopped to pieces in boat, slashes in boat floor cause by killing snake. Again no fires but I certainly do SEND IT!
HOLYFNSNICKERDOODLES BATMAN!!!!! That's a lot of tragedy in one boat. You should write a book about it.
omg........lol you started that and it's like a muscle car..lol I have the same engine and it sounds like.. "the land of egg roll, rice burners".....
LMAO yeah that muffler is freakin awesome.
Where do I find one of those snazzy t-handled torque wrench tools? Do I have to buy individual tools for each metric size; or do they interchangeable hex keys?
Nice video.
I got them at Harbor freight, comes with a full set of metric and standard.
Geaux tigahs
Yee Yee Geaux Tigahs!
To hell with scooter
Heck yah man.... scooter is going down!!!!!
bro I bought a bass boat the motor is old and crusty don't run half the time so this is the answer to my problem also the Corona fishers like you said pressure so I need to find new fishing out in the pucker brush Thank You.
Heck yeah man, I love finding new hidden fishing spots.
Great work!! Do you know if Jeff still makes the exhaust? Don’t want to blow up his inbox with unicorns ifs he’s not anymore. Looking to purchase one and want something different other than the backwater performance exhaust.
Yes sir he still is. Good dude and I still love my exhaust.
@@SendItJonBoats Awesome. Thanks for replying. Any chance you can send me his Facebook link again. The one attached to the video wasn’t working for me. And when search his name a ton of people came up.
Thanks again.
I have good luck using dollar store toothpaste for valve lapping. Original white toothpaste without the flavor gel stuff. Obviously not the best but for cheap motors it gets the job done.
Thats a good idea, never tired that.
this is comedy
Gotta laugh sometimes... especially working on boats because they will drive you insane.
Nice!!!! We haven't done a vtwin build yet. A 670 without politicians has to be 🔥. Hopefully not literally this time 🤣. #azspamcan is a handful with just a built gx200 in it for 10fter. I'm excited for this one.
Hopefully I can get it dialed in and get some video of it running soon.
“Egg roll land” instantly subscribed
yep. that carb adapter torque spec is exactly 1 ugga dugga
I almost said it was .875 ugga dugga but wasn't sure if everyone would know what I was talking about.
@@SendItJonBoats bahhaha, next time lol
The land of sweet and sour chicken lmao
No fuel pump?And what did you do with the crankcase hose?Thanks
yes I am running an electric fuel pump. I just left the hoses from the crank case and let them hang
What size motor is needed/recommended for a 1648 flatbottom ? Surface drive kit.
22hp minimum!
G'day great video mate. No politicians in my engine 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
Bye Bye politicians! Yee Yee!
That is how we use to do our racing go-cart Briggs motors..We. ran alcohol though..
I want to do an alcohol motor soon. Got to get this one figured out first and see where it goes from there.
Could you flip the adapter and turn the carb around
Out of all the content on your channel, the moment you added the Dino juice and fired that lawnmower up was the moment I realized I need a boat.
Something about a clapped out lawn mower engine really gets me going.
Subscribed when I heard you where making the engine noises while installing the carb.... I like this.
Thanks for the sub! LOL. I like to make funny noises sometimes.
You should turbocharge one of these things. That would be sick. I’ve seen other people do it but I’ve never seen them put it on a boat. Now that I think about it there’s probably a reason you wouldn’t want that on a boat but it would still be sick.
Turbos, superchargers, and nitrous is coming.... just trying to get some of these easier builds out of the way first.
Where’d you get that exhaust
I spent 3 minutes in the video talking about where I got it and left a link in the description.
Scooter #3 you can always quit being cheap and just pay for RUclips premium.
For reals! I pay for it, aint like it's expensive!
@@SendItJonBoats it’s really not that expensive. I personally haven’t seen an add on RUclips in over 3 years. Payed for RUclips premium (at the time it was RUclips Red) so I could watch Cobra Kai and haven’t looked back since lol
@@AlIsUpOutdoors i love the youtube premium, it is work the 10 bucks.
Scooter here can't believe you went from the bottle to the can in the Haters Corner beverage holder! Hate it! 😏
Ol scooter always gotta hate! LOL Someone has to clean out the fridge and make room for the summer beer!
I don't like politicians in my motor! 🤣🤣🤣
Gotta get those politicians out of there. Use that space for some more horses.
Besides, it's easier to clean up after horses than trying to clean up after politicians.
Dang politicians got to go!!!! Bye Bye!!!
You are correct Bob.... hate cleaning up after politicians!
Cool stuff man!!!
Thank you sir! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Dam man talk to much just build that junk motor
"I'm your scooterbarry" 😂😂
LMAO. I laughed way too hard at that.
@18:43
Ey! Yo! Dude i think u'r muffler fell off mate!
😄
It would be cool to get that air filter facing the other way but this is cool as hell lol
Yeah I wish I could turn it around but it wouldn't work. I even thought about putting a 90 degree tube on there to get it up away from the exhaust, but it seems to be working fine.
Ordered me some of those 12.5 hp gain per oil filter. I need a few of those on my truck.😉 Removed the governor but not gonna run over 5K rpms? Motor sounds great.
Yeah I am going to keep it under 5k until I get the new cam and billet parts. Really don't want to have watch a rod go through the side of the block.
I see this build and video would be totally impossible without Amazon.
Yes... without Amazon my world would melt, the planets would be mis-aligned, and aliens would transcend to the rivers of earth and turn all the fish into cross eyed albino squirrels with mermaid fins! So yeah go buy some amazon products so I can make 3 cents.
@@SendItJonBoats no dought it would
Your car was pumping fuel into the oil like maybe a hole in your float
Yup, it was bad. That stock carb gave me so many problems, I am glad it caught on fire.
Where can I get Jeff Kleins contact info? Thanks
He is on Facebook, I left a link in the description of the video
Liked the work in the motor. Had a 9HP Go-devil for years! Upgraded a few times. After watching I miss my old long tail and I want to change to Mikuni Carb on my Pro-drive. More POWER BABY! Mine runs 4,250 or so fully loaded. When you get yours wired come help me! I will show you some places in Alabama to run MM!
Heck yeah man! I need some places to go ride, all we got here in GA is shallow sandy water and little bit of mud,
Man I just wish that exhaust pointed back so you wouldn’t hear it quite as much driving it, but it does sound awesome
Yeah, it aint bad and I am sure he could make them point back if you wanted.
Pound salt scooter 5lbs of it where the sun don't shine
LMAO! Yee YEE
Enjoyed your video, just subscribed.👍👍💯
Awesome, thank you!
12.5 hp gain just switching out the oil filter lol
Thats what the guy at auto zone told me... so it must be true. I can tell a huge difference, might even be 13 hp gain.
Sand that flywheel it will help your spark be hotter....at least another 30hp maybe 40hp. Another great video man!
I cleaned it up some before I put the cover back on. I may need to bust out the sand paper if I can get another 30hp out of it! LOL
Just a little technical clarification. So long as the rust isn't so thick that you can't turn the flywheel, sanding the rust off the magnets doesn't do anything for the modern electronic ignitions.
Setting the proper gap between the coil legs and the flywheel is important though. It should be set to prexactly one business card thousandths.
(Please Note: Actual specs for the Harbor Davidson
670cc V-Twin Engine are:
Flywheel/Ignition Coil Gap:
0.0015" - 0.0018"
Intake Valve Lash:
0.005" - 0.007"
Exhaust Valve Lash:
0.007" - 0.009"
@@bob2161 I glad someone knows the correct cap, I looked around and found a million different suggestions.
@@SendItJonBoatsGreetings, this message is for Mr. It.
Mr. Send It, I was reviewing my previous comment, and thought I had screwed up, but actually, I was mistaken.
THE COIL GAP OF 0.040" IS WRONG! I don't even know which hole I pulled that number out of. (The 1 business card thousandths is correct though.)
It will probably (maybe) run at 0.040" but there's a good chance you'll be leaving a good bit of whoop ass still in the can.
I'm including the correct coil gap and valve lash numbers below. I'm also correcting my previous comment. Goodness knows I don't want to be creating any more than my fair share of confusion. Please accept my, ever so humble, apologies.
Flywheel/Ignition Coil Gap:
0.0015" - 0.0018"
Intake Valve Lash:
0.005" - 0.007"
Exhaust Valve Lash:
0.007" - 0.009"
I'm still working on tracking down the timing and frequency settings for the canooter valve modulator, and the torque specs on the nuzzler bearing. I'll have that to you forthwith and post haste. Eventually.
@@SendItJonBoats Sorry about the delay. I got involved with another project . . . I'm sure you know how that goes.
Determining Proper Settings for Canooter Brand Valve Modulation Units.
(Specifications included are for the analog series of Canooters. Specifications for the digital versions are not included.)
Canooter brand modulators are considered to be the "Gold Standard" for valve control in attenuator and filter valve modulation applications. The robustness and longevity of these units means it is not uncommon for Canooter units to be handed down from one generation to the next. We are quite proud of this legacy.
Today though, most of the high end modern units are digital, and are pretty much plug'n'play. They are programmed to function in a wide range of applications. The programs include algorithmic diagnostics that control the automatic setting adjustment parameters. Thanks to this kind of forward thinking by the Canooter brand design engineering department, retrograde deficiency errors or failures are practically unheard of. This reliability has lead to the exclusive use of Canooter brand modulators throughout the entire dilithium mining and processing industry.
We are proud and honored to be recognized and trusted by this important industry.
However, we realize that we would have never obtained such an achievement if it were not for the longtime support we have enjoyed from our millions of individual owners.
Most smaller or independent operators continue to use the older, simpler, analog units. These analog Canooters have long been praised for their "Set it and forget it" ease of use.
Of course, after enough time and use, even these analog units will need to be recalibrated.
We offer the most advanced Canooter diagnostic tools available. These are used extensively by the dilithium mining and processing companies. However, this caliber of recalibration instruments are financially out of reach of the small independent operator.
To address this inequity, we have continued to offer our older analog meters. These are the kind that the "Little Guys" can afford and use, while still having great results.
Just follow the simple instructions below, and you can be confident that your old Canooter will be right back to original factory calibration, and will perform at peak efficiency. Once recalibrated and reinstalled, your Canooter brand modulator will give you many more years of trouble free service.
First, locate and remove the turbo fantabulator unit from your machine. NOTE: Turbo fantabulator units are most often installed in close proximity to the primary recipitory bearing trunnions.
Second, secure your turbo fantabulator to the bench. NOTE: Extreme care should be exercised while securing the turbo fantabulator in order to avoid damage to the secondary wobble vane assembly.
Third, separate the Canooter from the turbo fantabulator housing. Remove any refractory debris that may have collected in the Canooters inlet port bypass chamber. (Remember that all refractory debris should be handled and disposed of according to the biohazard protocols applicable to your region.)
Fourth, securely connect your Canooter brand analog recalibration meter to the cleaned inlet port bypass chamber. NOTE: Insure the recalibration meter is in an upright position. If the meter is leaning, it will bias the results of the recalibration process. It is especially important that your meter does not lean to the left. Operating your Canooter unit when adjusted to specifications of a left leaning meter will result in a catastrophic failure. It is reccomended that left leaning bias be avoided.
Fifth: prepare the face of a two pound hammer with a wedge of fresh lemon. (Rubberbands may be neccessary to secure the lemon wedge firmly in place.)
Sixth: Using the bottom of the hammer handle (in the same fashion you would while installing a piston into a cylinder), tap the Canooter modulator output shaft. Continue tapping the shaft until the TLAR* indication is clearly displayed on the meter.
Congratulations, you have successfully recalibrated your Canooter valve modulator. Reinstall all components, reverse order from removal. You can expect top performance from your machine, as well as an increase in fishing yields and the reversal of any male pattern baldness being experienced by you or close fishing buddies.
*TLAR = That Looks About Right
Sir, can you please on the next time you use a growl as a reference of torque assimilate a number based on the intensity of the growl so we can make a better reference to try to replicate it.
Geaux tigers!
It's probably hard to be a Dolbyob in life ...
no clue what that is, but thank you, I think
ผมชอบครับ...💘💘💘👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏
👍
How much you charge to build one?
Depends on what you want done. Contact me with what you want chris@tbnoutdoors.net
GEAUX TIGERS!
That's a German torque speck right? Lol 😆🤣
the ughhhhhh click is german torque speck. The errrrrr click is American torque speck.
@@SendItJonBoats oh I c lmao 🤣
My predator makes plenty of power but I would like to make it quieter so will a car muffler tame the roar?
The stock muffler is about as quiet as it gets. You could add an additional muffler but I have never tried that. I wonder if it would choke the airflow down too much.
@@SendItJonBoats yup that is the issue I'm in Louisiana and sometimes I want to keep stealth to get close to gators but I want the power and above all I don't want to hurt reliability,a little slower is something that can be lived with
Real men dont wear rubber gloves! 🤘😁
That's not what your proctologist told me!
Im counting the days till my warrenty goes out so i can hotrod it a little love you're build videos man
Nice... I voided the warranty first day. Took it out of the box and started ripping stuff off. LOL
I’m building a 212 and I’m gonna strap it to the aquamarina air cat with a long tail for scientific research
Dude that is going to be awesome! Should work pretty good.
@@SendItJonBoats i don’t really know anything about boats so this is definitely a science expirament
@@SendItJonBoats I’m basically doing this project to get an understanding of boat theory as you might say, like understanding the handling dynamics of having a wider boat or a longer boat and power to weight and so on
Im definitely doing this! Thanks bro
It was worth the time and effort. I really like it.
I’ve been researching mods for my 23 vanguard and what I’ve realized is I need to swap it for a predator
You can use a drill press if you have one to compress the springs.
Btw big brain idea with the scotch bright
Yeah man, get em clean baby!
Daría mi mano izquierda por un motor de esos aún si fuera solamente el motor yo le contruiria la transmisión
What size carb did you go with?
34mm mikuni. Works really well so far.
Now I want to try spaghetti and peanut butter.
It's pretty good. Like dipping a twinkie in hot sauce!
Keep kicking Azzaro brother 💪 🙏 hahahah love it
I have been thinking about getting a John boat and a mud motor to get back to the fishing hole for a while now. Thank you for all the tips and tricks.😊
I need an update on how these mods improved the performance!! Want to do these exact same thing to my 670.
Working out a fuel issue now. Hope to have it back on the water for a follow up video very soon.
@@SendItJonBoats yes! Love your content btw. Been building my duck boat for a while, lots of good info on your page.
Hey fella, them cams are back at performance670
Yay! I need to get one.
They’re about $200 more now.
dang... what the f#ck!!!! Inflation is retarded right now.
Dude you some kind of special lol 👍🏻👍🏻
What do you know about the mud skipper motor? Is it a Honda knock off? Going to make a purchase soon. Thank you YEE YEE
Got a video all about it...I know all about them. Check out my mud motor review and comparison video and you will know all about it too.
What carburetor did you use
Mikuni 34
🤘 Love your torque specs 🤘
I like to get real technical... muuuuureughhhhh... Right there!
That sounds nasty! Oh damn.
I love that exhaust