Another option for getting the board in the centre is to start in the centre. This is done by adding another tongue ( also known as a spline ) to the centre board. So now you are able to work both ways from the centre out. I've been installing T&G for years and have used the 'extra hand' idea as well. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Randy, the tongue on both sides is another great idea. I've used it on floors, but for some reason I like working in one direction on ceilings .... thanks for watching
Hi from Denmark! Been following your build and been learning so much. I am starting my roof installation tomorrow. Your brackets are awesome! Thanks for the idea and great content.
Hey Duc !!! You have no idea how awesome it is for me to see comments like this - thank you so much for taking the time to make it !!! Remember -the whole point of using tongue and groove is to be able to hide the fasteners. The one side of the board is held by the T&G - the other is held be a screw (don't use nails) that has been carefully driven into the tongue on a angle so that is gets good purchase on the wood but will be hidden by the next piece. I have to do another video about that - in the meantime check out this video from a lady who is working on her house - see start watching at 4:32 - ruclips.net/video/8R7QaISmfcQ/видео.html and every time she says "nail - you here "screw" - cause in a van the vibration will make the nails fall out - let me know how it goes !!!!
@@VanOfAction No need to watch other videos. You are a great mediator! Your instructions and explanations were very clear to me. I have not seen anyone explain how to line up the end of the board on the front part of the roof, like you do. It makes so much sense! Not seen the T&G technique on other van builds either. It looks SO clean! Why is that not a thing?! ;) You just got a sub from the other side of the pond. Keep up the great content!
@@ducphungcom thanks for the kind words and the sub !!!! I too can't understand going to the trouble and expense of T&G then filling the face with holes. For what it's worth as the build developed the detail at the ceiling / headliner transition evolved into something better. You may want to watch this one too ruclips.net/video/OgdrIkj8krI/видео.html - Cutting the ends is important but I didn't have to be as fussy as I thought and this new method hid all the screws too. Be well
I clad my van with sheet aluminium and applied wrap. Wrap comes in many colours and textures, wood included. Ended up with more room inside, a much lighter build and in a few hours can change the decor. My cabinets and drawers are sheet aluminium also
Steve - again thanks for taking the time to share !!! That sounds really interesting - do you have a photos you could post ? It may help some others with their plans. Regarding the weight - there is no question you have to aware and weight is going to impact all kinds of things - BUT - I also believe it's possible going too far the other way could have a negative impact on the experience. My Promaster 3500 is a 1 ton commercial truck - with commercial springs. I intentionally added weight to get a bit of compression on the springs which makes the ride much smoother. In fact it's really pleasant to ride in. I kept track and by my estimation I've added about 400 pounds - I consider it the equivalent of 2 fat guys riding with me all the time !!! Be well ...... Dave
Hi Dave, 400 lbs is very impressive. After seeing a few builds where the gross is at or above the manufactures weight got me to thinking alternate materials. I have recently retired and purchased a mwb sprinter which I’m now converting. My original work van (sprinter) of 12 years had a very basic fit out which still retained the original full headliner. Recently stripping the van out I can’t find any signs of moisture damage, I put this down to the the headliners ability to breathe. For 10 years l worked in this van all over Australia and spent many more nights in it than my own bed at home. As the new build progresses I’ll keep you posted. Merry Christmas and have a great festive season. . Steve
Hi Steve - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment - there is no question that moisture is something that has to be planned for. I think understanding what causes it and how to manage it are critical to a build that will last a long time ......... I hope you'll stop back and join the community ..... Dave
Hi Gary - thanks for stopping in and taking the time to comment. I've never seen the inside of an e 150 but I'm sure there will be rails to attach wood to across the ceiling. No question it's gonna be an odd height to work with - but I would suggest using the hold up brackets I made and you can take your time. They would work on a 1/4" lip - there isn't much weight and you'll want to save as much inside space as possible................. Be well and stop back .. Dave
I love this self bracket idea!! Thank you so much. Why do people put the refectix stuff on like that? Just a square piece instead of filing the whole panel?
Hi Alaina - thanks for watching and your note - the silver stuff is NOT reflctix - it's the Noico sound deadener I installed on the roof, walls and floor. I should have explained that part. I didn't insulate the ceiling until had 4 pieces of wood installed then I just pulled the wool bats through above the wood. I thought having it hanging around all the time would be a problem. If you watch the insulation video you'll get a better idea of what I mean. Be well.
Hi Siobhan - thanks for watching and asking !! My build happened during Covid and we wanted to support our local economy as much as possible. This lumber was purchased from Cedar Solutions in Enderby BC. www.cedarsolutions.ca/ - They were excellent about picking pieces for me based on color and grain. Really a great company. The important part was being sure it was kiln dried - it's the same material you would use in a high quality sauna. I hope that helps ...... Good luck ...... Dave
Hi Ken, sorry for the late reply - some comments seem to filter into space >>>>. I did insulate the ceiling with Havelock wool. I got excited putting up the wood and forgot to video that part. Once I had 4 pieces of wood up I was able to pull the insulation batt into the space between the wood and the ceiling. It saved a ton of cursing as fought with the wool and wood together. it worked great and with a little effort I got it into every little corner. Be Well
Hi Chartmann. Sorry to hear you’re having trouble. If you want. Email me more information at vanofaction@gmail.com. Include photos or videos. I’m sure the problem will be easily solved. ….. Dave
Hi Tom - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I did my van during COVID and wanted to support the local economy. The design was supposed to use a lot of 80/20 and plastic - but I'm in the mountains of BC on a logging road so there is a ton of fine lumber harvested close by. In the town of Enderby (my closest town) is a company called Cedar Solutions www.cedarsolutions.ca/ - they harvested this wood within 10 miles of my house, milled it, kilned it and stacked it. Because of Covid I was not allowed in the yard and they were great about picking lengths, grains and colours I wanted. All the cedar in the van started out as 1 x 5 V matched T&G, I just milled it to suit my needs. I'm imagine they would ship to you, but any good lumber supply should be able to get it. Just ask for select grade, clear kiln dried cedar - the same as people use in saunas. Best of luck and I hope you'll join the community .................. Dave
Hi John - I'm sorry to hear that :) this was one of the first videos and I'd like to think they get better - but truthfully it was the content I was going for. Thanks for stopping by and I hope you'll give it another chance. Be well
@@VanOfAction I was only joking around but the sound effect at 0:10 is definitely way too loud, I had my volume at a moderate level and it still hurt my ears and scared the hell out of me. Other than that the video is great and I'm using your tips to do my ceiling. :)
Another option for getting the board in the centre is to start in the centre. This is done by adding another tongue ( also known as a spline ) to the centre board. So now you are able to work both ways from the centre out. I've been installing T&G for years and have used the 'extra hand' idea as well. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Randy, the tongue on both sides is another great idea. I've used it on floors, but for some reason I like working in one direction on ceilings .... thanks for watching
Some great pearls of craftsmanship in this one! Great tips. Thanks! I am encouraged.
@TeutonicNordwind - thanks for watching - you can do it !!!
the ceiling on your van has been cedarized, well done.
Thanks Drake ! Sorry I missed this.
Hi from Denmark! Been following your build and been learning so much. I am starting my roof installation tomorrow. Your brackets are awesome! Thanks for the idea and great content.
Hey Duc !!! You have no idea how awesome it is for me to see comments like this - thank you so much for taking the time to make it !!! Remember -the whole point of using tongue and groove is to be able to hide the fasteners. The one side of the board is held by the T&G - the other is held be a screw (don't use nails) that has been carefully driven into the tongue on a angle so that is gets good purchase on the wood but will be hidden by the next piece. I have to do another video about that - in the meantime check out this video from a lady who is working on her house - see start watching at 4:32 - ruclips.net/video/8R7QaISmfcQ/видео.html and every time she says "nail - you here "screw" - cause in a van the vibration will make the nails fall out - let me know how it goes !!!!
@@VanOfAction No need to watch other videos. You are a great mediator! Your instructions and explanations were very clear to me. I have not seen anyone explain how to line up the end of the board on the front part of the roof, like you do. It makes so much sense! Not seen the T&G technique on other van builds either. It looks SO clean! Why is that not a thing?! ;) You just got a sub from the other side of the pond. Keep up the great content!
@@ducphungcom thanks for the kind words and the sub !!!! I too can't understand going to the trouble and expense of T&G then filling the face with holes. For what it's worth as the build developed the detail at the ceiling / headliner transition evolved into something better. You may want to watch this one too ruclips.net/video/OgdrIkj8krI/видео.html - Cutting the ends is important but I didn't have to be as fussy as I thought and this new method hid all the screws too. Be well
Some really great tips. We're just about to start cladding our van ceiling. We're feeling ready to tackle it now. Thanks!
Great tips.Thank you for posting.
Excellent install techniques and short cuts.
Hi Paula - thanks for watching and commenting - be well and safe
AWESOME mate... Thank You.
Hi again Adryan - sorry for the delay in my reply - we were on a 6 week road trip - thank you for watching
I clad my van with sheet aluminium and applied wrap. Wrap comes in many colours and textures, wood included. Ended up with more room inside, a much lighter build and in a few hours can change the decor. My cabinets and drawers are sheet aluminium also
Steve - again thanks for taking the time to share !!! That sounds really interesting - do you have a photos you could post ? It may help some others with their plans. Regarding the weight - there is no question you have to aware and weight is going to impact all kinds of things - BUT - I also believe it's possible going too far the other way could have a negative impact on the experience. My Promaster 3500 is a 1 ton commercial truck - with commercial springs. I intentionally added weight to get a bit of compression on the springs which makes the ride much smoother. In fact it's really pleasant to ride in. I kept track and by my estimation I've added about 400 pounds - I consider it the equivalent of 2 fat guys riding with me all the time !!! Be well ...... Dave
Hi Dave, 400 lbs is very impressive. After seeing a few builds where the gross is at or above the manufactures weight got me to thinking alternate materials. I have recently retired and purchased a mwb sprinter which I’m now converting. My original work van (sprinter) of 12 years had a very basic fit out which still retained the original full headliner. Recently stripping the van out I can’t find any signs of moisture damage, I put this down to the the headliners ability to breathe. For 10 years l worked in this van all over Australia and spent many more nights in it than my own bed at home. As the new build progresses I’ll keep you posted. Merry Christmas and have a great festive season. . Steve
Hi Steve - I'll look forward to the updates - I wish you and your family well .......Dave
I like your style.
Happy New Year Sebastiaan !! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I hope you stop back. Dave
Any timber in your build especially high in the van attracts and holds moisture
Hi Steve - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment - there is no question that moisture is something that has to be planned for. I think understanding what causes it and how to manage it are critical to a build that will last a long time ......... I hope you'll stop back and join the community ..... Dave
U guys always make it look easy how about doing this on a e150 econoline!!! On very low head room!! Very tight!
Hi Gary - thanks for stopping in and taking the time to comment. I've never seen the inside of an e 150 but I'm sure there will be rails to attach wood to across the ceiling. No question it's gonna be an odd height to work with - but I would suggest using the hold up brackets I made and you can take your time. They would work on a 1/4" lip - there isn't much weight and you'll want to save as much inside space as possible................. Be well and stop back .. Dave
Wow. I learn so many things
David - wanna build a boat ?
@@VanOfAction yes. Repair a boat. Trim a boat
I love this self bracket idea!! Thank you so much. Why do people put the refectix stuff on like that? Just a square piece instead of filing the whole panel?
Hi Alaina - thanks for watching and your note - the silver stuff is NOT reflctix - it's the Noico sound deadener I installed on the roof, walls and floor. I should have explained that part. I didn't insulate the ceiling until had 4 pieces of wood installed then I just pulled the wool bats through above the wood. I thought having it hanging around all the time would be a problem. If you watch the insulation video you'll get a better idea of what I mean. Be well.
@@VanOfAction Awesome thank you for explaining!!
Great job!
Nora !! Thanks for watching and commenting - I hope things are going well for you.
Where did you buy the Cedar from?
Hi Siobhan - thanks for watching and asking !! My build happened during Covid and we wanted to support our local economy as much as possible. This lumber was purchased from Cedar Solutions in Enderby BC. www.cedarsolutions.ca/ - They were excellent about picking pieces for me based on color and grain. Really a great company. The important part was being sure it was kiln dried - it's the same material you would use in a high quality sauna. I hope that helps ...... Good luck ...... Dave
Thanks so much Dave it looks great!
Hi are you going to insulate the ceiling ?
Hi Ken, sorry for the late reply - some comments seem to filter into space >>>>. I did insulate the ceiling with Havelock wool. I got excited putting up the wood and forgot to video that part. Once I had 4 pieces of wood up I was able to pull the insulation batt into the space between the wood and the ceiling. It saved a ton of cursing as fought with the wool and wood together. it worked great and with a little effort I got it into every little corner. Be Well
Is this kiln-dried spruce light in weight?
Hi Esparka - the wood is cedar not spruce - and yes - it's a soft and light wood. I think not as heavy as dried pine.
not sure if anyone said this.. but what about a T stand.. like some dry wall people use.... wedge a t to hold it up??
Anthony - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment - that may work really well. Stay safe
I can’t get my frames to work out at all! I’m so frustrated 😣
Hi Chartmann. Sorry to hear you’re having trouble. If you want. Email me more information at vanofaction@gmail.com. Include photos or videos. I’m sure the problem will be easily solved. ….. Dave
Where did you find your cedar? Thanks, Janice in Port Angeles, WA 98362
Hi Tom - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I did my van during COVID and wanted to support the local economy. The design was supposed to use a lot of 80/20 and plastic - but I'm in the mountains of BC on a logging road so there is a ton of fine lumber harvested close by. In the town of Enderby (my closest town) is a company called Cedar Solutions www.cedarsolutions.ca/ - they harvested this wood within 10 miles of my house, milled it, kilned it and stacked it. Because of Covid I was not allowed in the yard and they were great about picking lengths, grains and colours I wanted. All the cedar in the van started out as 1 x 5 V matched T&G, I just milled it to suit my needs. I'm imagine they would ship to you, but any good lumber supply should be able to get it. Just ask for select grade, clear kiln dried cedar - the same as people use in saunas. Best of luck and I hope you'll join the community .................. Dave
พูดมาก รีวิวเลยมีแต่น้ำ ?
BORE…..RING! GET TO THE POINT
Hi Uncle ……. Sorry :).
jesus christ the audio levels gave me ptsd....
Hi John - I'm sorry to hear that :) this was one of the first videos and I'd like to think they get better - but truthfully it was the content I was going for. Thanks for stopping by and I hope you'll give it another chance. Be well
@@VanOfAction I was only joking around but the sound effect at 0:10 is definitely way too loud, I had my volume at a moderate level and it still hurt my ears and scared the hell out of me. Other than that the video is great and I'm using your tips to do my ceiling. :)