In this video I'll show you how I remove the right hand swing axle on my W109. The same procedure is also used on the W108 and various other Mercedes of the same era.
Hello, I have a question, what tupe of Oiz is used in the manual gearbox of the Mercedes Ponton 219. Thanks you ver y much for you help. Sorry for the inconveniente, I don’t have any other reference to ask for help.@@mercedesmaintenance.6339
A small, but important detail about the brake hoses at the front. They are longer on the 6.3, than on the other 300 SEL cars. This is because the 6.3 front axle (lower part) are moved a bit forward. (This is the reason the wheelbase is 1,5 cm longer on the 6.3) This gives the front weels a caster angle, that the others do not have, when turning tight, that also gives the tires a better grip when cornering hard. But the main reason was to give space to the big 6.3 oil pan. So, if you put on hoses that are short, they will go off when front axle is fully unloaded and wheels turned max.
Hi John, remember you need a brake force regulator (?) mounted near the fuel Pump when changing from 35 to 42 pistons. Otherwise car becomes uncontrollable at the rear end when braking. In case you cannot find a regulator drop me a Mail and I send it to you at postage expenses. I could send you pics of the typical crack failures of the sleeve in the rear axle. Rgds, Oliver
Hi. I'm not changing from 35 to 42. The ones I'm rebuilding are original 42's. I was just trying to find new pistons for them. The car is fitted with a brake regulator back there. I would love to see any pictures of a typical failed sleeve, its great for guidance. Mine seems to run smoothly, but I looked today and there seems to be a small chip in one of the splines toward the outer edge. My email is jwright89@sbcglobal.net Thanks so much for your help. Cheers John.
I've repaired a few of those rear axles. That slider actually rides on rollers in grooves. The outer case is where they fail, as the high torque from the 6.3 engine pushes the rollers against the outer case.
Would love to hear any advice you may have. I replied to a few others that the slip joint appears to run smoothly but does have a small chip in one of the splines? I was wondering if this is fatal, or can it still be used? The outer case is in perfect condition. What do you think about what I mentioned in the video about the crown and ring gear? My feeling is that there is no detectable play and no signs of leaking. Mercmad thinks that the axle has been serviced in the past. I feel I should leave well alone. If in the future it needs doing I'll take care of it then. I spoke to an experienced Mercedes mechanic here locally and he said to leave it. Thanks Christopher, Its great to hear from someone with previous experience. Cheers John.
@@mercedesmaintenance.6339 I think it is best to leave it. The clamp on the boot you undid is the tell tale sign it has been serviced before, as the factory clamp is different. It is crimped at factory. One more piece of info is the pivot pin has a flat spot machined on it for the wedge pin to look into, just like the pedal arms of the early bicycle. I wouldn't be surprised if a cotter pin for the early bicycles are the same size.
@christophermarshall5765 hi, if the axle boot was torn, will it leak gear oil? And if there is a leak from the boot, would it be from an inner seal? Or its just the boot itself?
@@5aldl if the boot at the pivot on those swing arm axles is torn, it will leak gear oil. There is no inner seal. They have three seals in total, the boot being one, & the other 2 at the brake ends of the axles. There is a split type replacement boot kit on the market, but I personally would not use them.
@christophermarshall5765 how much do you think the split boot would last? As a temporary repair, and is there a way to properly install it for a good period of time?
Those pistons fit with removing the leading pin in the housing :FRENKIT 242918 ATE 42mm The leading pin breaks easy of by just tapping it with a hammer.
@@mercedesmaintenance.6339 The idea was to keep the piston close to the rotor. with the pistons i told you there is less fluid in compared to the lead pin pistons.
I source my parts from a supplier in Sydney New South Wales Australia. They are called Prestige Parts. They sell on Ebay. It is likely they can help you.
It's the homokinetic joint and no it has nothing to do with LGBT politics. '😁 If the rollers are coming out, it's broken, other wise they are OK . to replace the rubber bush, take the two bolts out,spread the arm along that slot with a screw driver, then the pivot bush just slides out. LSD rear ends were retro fitted to the very earliest cars because in the wet they re uncontrollable. I have a 6.3 in the shop right now which hasn't got one,but is a 2 owner car and very low mileage. . Looking at that pivot bush ,i'd say it has been removed and replaced in the past and the diff may have been overhauled at the same time, with someone neglecting to replace the Oil warning plaque. The guide pin type caliper pistons are hard to find. i had trouble a couple of years back when trying to find an only a chance find on Ebay saved the day. ATE does have a website where all of the calipers and parts they ever made for any vehicle are listed. ATE,By the way is Alfred Teves Automobiltechnisches Material und Zubehörteile (automobile technical equipment and accessories) ,the original brake part company and part of lockheed. The barrel roller bearing is essential as the swing axle housing and shaft actually flex under load. All of the Swing axle models From 110 to 113 all need them. put a cheaper ball bearing in there and it will fail quickly. The average price for the barrel roller bearing is $200 . The other side just has the ball bearing. regarding the cones, yes, either smooth the cones or throw them. Pitted cones DO wear out the bags .
Thank you so much my friend. As ever, a hive of knowledge. Ill start searching for those pistons. I never even thought about the pitting wearing the bags out, makes total sense. Look like my LBGTQ joint is ok:):) Cheers John.
I had another look this morning. The slip spline joint seems to run smoothly and the rollers are not coming out. But there is a small chip on one of the splines toward the outside, close to the chamfered edge. Is this acceptable? Or should it be changed out? I found this one at Niemoller. www.niemoeller.de/en/w109/mb-300sel-w109018-motor-w100981/B018/350101/d35252a-sliding-sleeve-with-cylindrical-rollers Thanks for all the help. Cheers John.
That will be coming. Hopefully later this year, once I get the rest of the welding completed. Its such a large project, so there's lots of switching between many tasks. Cheers John.
Nice video, as always John! I'm a great fan of your channel and I'm currently restoring a 280se in Sweden. What's the number on tve original Daimler-Benz workshop manual?
The manual is the service manual for cars starting 1968 series 108, 109, 111 and 113. The only number i see is on the spine.. SM 1206 hope this helps.. Are you a member of Mercedes Maintenance and Mercedes Rescue on Facebook? If not, come join us there. Lots of great people and information. The 3.5 I sold arrived in Sweden about two months ago. Maybe you guys can share info on your restorations. Glad you enjoy the channel. All the best . Cheers John🍻
Your vídeo has solved a big problem for me.
I was unaware of the existente of the flat pin that holds the axe
Thanks you for your video
I'm glad it helped. All the best John
Hello, I have a question, what tupe of Oiz is used in the manual gearbox of the Mercedes Ponton 219. Thanks you ver y much for you help. Sorry for the inconveniente, I don’t have any other reference to ask for help.@@mercedesmaintenance.6339
The cuestión are"Type of Oil used on the Manual gearbox” Thanks
Excellent job John.
Thank you.
A small, but important detail about the brake hoses at the front. They are longer on the 6.3, than on the other 300 SEL cars. This is because the 6.3 front axle (lower part) are moved a bit forward. (This is the reason the wheelbase is 1,5 cm longer on the 6.3) This gives the front weels a caster angle, that the others do not have, when turning tight, that also gives the tires a better grip when cornering hard. But the main reason was to give space to the big 6.3 oil pan. So, if you put on hoses that are short, they will go off when front axle is fully unloaded and wheels turned max.
Thank you for that. I was un aware of that difference. I'll be sure to get the ones for the 6.3. Cheers John
Beautifu work John. Thanks for sharing.
Nice video John. Living the life. 😎 The brakes and the front are looking top notch. And great info from mercmad 👍
Hi John, remember you need a brake force regulator (?) mounted near the fuel Pump when changing from 35 to 42 pistons. Otherwise car becomes uncontrollable at the rear end when braking. In case you cannot find a regulator drop me a Mail and I send it to you at postage expenses. I could send you pics of the typical crack failures of the sleeve in the rear axle. Rgds, Oliver
Hi. I'm not changing from 35 to 42. The ones I'm rebuilding are original 42's. I was just trying to find new pistons for them. The car is fitted with a brake regulator back there. I would love to see any pictures of a typical failed sleeve, its great for guidance. Mine seems to run smoothly, but I looked today and there seems to be a small chip in one of the splines toward the outer edge. My email is jwright89@sbcglobal.net Thanks so much for your help. Cheers John.
I've repaired a few of those rear axles. That slider actually rides on rollers in grooves. The outer case is where they fail, as the high torque from the 6.3 engine pushes the rollers against the outer case.
Would love to hear any advice you may have. I replied to a few others that the slip joint appears to run smoothly but does have a small chip in one of the splines? I was wondering if this is fatal, or can it still be used? The outer case is in perfect condition. What do you think about what I mentioned in the video about the crown and ring gear? My feeling is that there is no detectable play and no signs of leaking. Mercmad thinks that the axle has been serviced in the past. I feel I should leave well alone. If in the future it needs doing I'll take care of it then. I spoke to an experienced Mercedes mechanic here locally and he said to leave it. Thanks Christopher, Its great to hear from someone with previous experience. Cheers John.
@@mercedesmaintenance.6339 I think it is best to leave it. The clamp on the boot you undid is the tell tale sign it has been serviced before, as the factory clamp is different. It is crimped at factory. One more piece of info is the pivot pin has a flat spot machined on it for the wedge pin to look into, just like the pedal arms of the early bicycle. I wouldn't be surprised if a cotter pin for the early bicycles are the same size.
@christophermarshall5765 hi, if the axle boot was torn, will it leak gear oil? And if there is a leak from the boot, would it be from an inner seal? Or its just the boot itself?
@@5aldl if the boot at the pivot on those swing arm axles is torn, it will leak gear oil. There is no inner seal. They have three seals in total, the boot being one, & the other 2 at the brake ends of the axles. There is a split type replacement boot kit on the market, but I personally would not use them.
@christophermarshall5765 how much do you think the split boot would last? As a temporary repair, and is there a way to properly install it for a good period of time?
Those pistons fit with removing the leading pin in the housing :FRENKIT 242918 ATE 42mm
The leading pin breaks easy of by just tapping it with a hammer.
I was wondering about that. Why did they have that pin? Seems unnecessary. Thanks John.
@@mercedesmaintenance.6339 The idea was to keep the piston close to the rotor. with the pistons i told you there is less fluid in compared to the lead pin pistons.
The A-Te. brakes are short for the system designer's name, Alfred Teaves.
I did not know that. Any thoughts on where to get those pistons? Cheers John.
I source my parts from a supplier in Sydney New South Wales Australia. They are called Prestige Parts. They sell on Ebay. It is likely they can help you.
It's the homokinetic joint and no it has nothing to do with LGBT politics.
'😁
If the rollers are coming out, it's broken, other wise they are OK .
to replace the rubber bush, take the two bolts out,spread the arm along that slot with a screw driver, then the pivot bush just slides out.
LSD rear ends were retro fitted to the very earliest cars because in the wet they re uncontrollable.
I have a 6.3 in the shop right now which hasn't got one,but is a 2 owner car and very low mileage.
. Looking at that pivot bush ,i'd say it has been removed and replaced in the past and the diff may have been overhauled at the same time, with someone neglecting to replace the Oil warning plaque.
The guide pin type caliper pistons are hard to find. i had trouble a couple of years back when trying to find an only a chance find on Ebay saved the day.
ATE does have a website where all of the calipers and parts they ever made for any vehicle are listed.
ATE,By the way is Alfred Teves Automobiltechnisches Material und Zubehörteile (automobile technical equipment and accessories) ,the original brake part company and part of lockheed.
The barrel roller bearing is essential as the swing axle housing and shaft actually flex under load. All of the Swing axle models From 110 to 113 all need them. put a cheaper ball bearing in there and it will fail quickly. The average price for the barrel roller bearing is $200 . The other side just has the ball bearing.
regarding the cones, yes, either smooth the cones or throw them. Pitted cones DO wear out the bags .
Thank you so much my friend. As ever, a hive of knowledge. Ill start searching for those pistons. I never even thought about the pitting wearing the bags out, makes total sense. Look like my LBGTQ joint is ok:):) Cheers John.
I had another look this morning. The slip spline joint seems to run smoothly and the rollers are not coming out. But there is a small chip on one of the splines toward the outside, close to the chamfered edge. Is this acceptable? Or should it be changed out? I found this one at Niemoller. www.niemoeller.de/en/w109/mb-300sel-w109018-motor-w100981/B018/350101/d35252a-sliding-sleeve-with-cylindrical-rollers Thanks for all the help. Cheers John.
On the rear bearings I think they replaced them with regular bearings. I did it myself on my 6.3
Damn, does that unit ever look well engineered and strong. And I’m just watching, not even had it in my hands - when a person can really tell.
Did you do a video showing how to put it back together?
That will be coming. Hopefully later this year, once I get the rest of the welding completed. Its such a large project, so there's lots of switching between many tasks.
Cheers John.
Nice video, as always John! I'm a great fan of your channel and I'm currently restoring a 280se in Sweden. What's the number on tve original Daimler-Benz workshop manual?
The manual is the service manual for cars starting 1968 series 108, 109, 111 and 113. The only number i see is on the spine.. SM 1206 hope this helps.. Are you a member of Mercedes Maintenance and Mercedes Rescue on Facebook? If not, come join us there. Lots of great people and information. The 3.5 I sold arrived in Sweden about two months ago. Maybe you guys can share info on your restorations. Glad you enjoy the channel. All the best . Cheers John🍻
Que marca de suspensión neumática le ha puesto.. querría ponerla a un w110 ya que es el mismo eje .. gracias...
John, Can I purchase the removal tool somewhere?
Hi Marek. That tool was gifted to me from a group Member "Duke" He use to work at the Classic Center. He made this up. Very handy tool. Cheers John 🍻