These are brilliant. Don't stop doing the detail and don't stop pointing out errors in manuals. Other sites skip the learning points, you provide what feels like 1 to 1 teaching. So much to learn!
Blow by blow .... every nut bolt, washer and drop of threadlock .... the full unexpurgated version for me too, please, Nigel. As you have said often enough, if anyone doesn’t like that , then .... Oh yes !! .... hit the fast forward !! A great series, and enjoying every moment of it. 👌👌
Hi Nigel, many thanks for making the extra effort filming the motor rebuild in this epic breadth with all the necessary details!! It’s just in time, as I am busy since fout months rebuilding my Frog, a 2007 110 TD4 nuts and bolts. Dealing with endless amount of rusty metall and rotten aluminium everywhere. The chassis was sandblasted and is primed & painted 5-6 times now with at least 5 ltr paint (Brantho-Korrux). Outside with the spray gun, inside with the pressure cup gun and a sonde/ tube with 360° nozzle. Worked perfect or me. Instead of watching the paint drying, I am disassembling the motor (250k km) and cleaning/ sandblasting/ painting/ replacing loads of parts. After looking to your great „how to rebuild an engine“ I was confident enough and now the complete timing and oil chain kits have arrived😊 Thanks again. Ron/ Munich PS: Yesterday I was looking to your epsiode „MT82 strip down“ and my thoughts are…….why not DIY? I hope I'm not getting cocky now😊
Nigel - I am really enjoying these videos. Keep doing them just like you are! I am in the middle of pulling my 2.4 Puma engine from my 2008 Defender 110 and about to replace it with a 5.3 LS engine. I sure wish there was a set of videos detailing that project the way you have done this one! I am planning to rebuild my 2.4 Puma engine once I have completed the LS swap and will definitely be using these videos as a reference when I do!!! Thank you for your excellent work!
Hi Nigel, I have been a subscriber to both of your channels for quite a while now. I like the format of both just the way they are. I see no need to change anything. See you next time.
Cheers Nigel. Funny you should mention referring to the Transit manual, as I've just found your channel, and in particular this video for guidance on doing the timing chain on my Mk7 Transit. All videos I've found so far, that are actually Transit focused, show very little, and are rushed. I'm very grateful you have this one up, and have filmed it in such detail and so methodically. I can now dive into the front of my big white box with much more confidence. Thank you very much Sir.
I realise I'm asking you to take a potential hit with subscribers but my vote is the more detail the better. As far as I am aware this is the only video tutorial on the net that is essentially the workshop manual (and more!) for the Puma. With these cars getting older by the day there is only going to be more demand for your knowledge valuable knowledge in these videos.
Don't stop mate , I SUBSCRIBE to the modelling bench aswell, I don't have a landrover but the videos are interesting and I'm always learning from your videos.
I've just come across your channel as I wanted to double check the pump sprocket setup before I time one up tomorrow. Sorry to hear you have lost a few subscribers. Remember that more people appreciate you and what you do, than do not. I once hoped to do what you are with my own channel but unfortunately my circumstances changed and I dedicate all free time I can to my poorly daughter and her sisters. Anyway, keep your chin up. You're helping others become better all the time. Dave
Thanks for an informative video. I wished I had seen it before putting a new tensioner in my 2.4 ford transit. I think I’m 1/2 tooth out on the exhaust side. Cheers
The hole below the fuel pump was used on the first Mk6 transit tdcis’ 2002-2006 2.0 and 2004-2006 2.4. It had a little oil feed pipe going up to the Delphi high pressure pump shaft, like a little drip feed. On the tddi engines the hole wasn’t there at all just fully cast flat.
This was my first video in this series and if I where reconditioning a puma engine I would certainly go through each video in detail. I did get info from this video on the fuel pump that I needed to know.
Gracias amigo por compartir de manera detallada y precisa ésta valiosa información, no había yo reparado un motor de éstos y para asombro me lo topé en un carro chino (JMC) ; nuevamente gracias y que Dios te bendiga a tí y familia
excellent head , valves & cam shafts & their rotating clutch installation & connection with crank shaft through chain # but where is water pump body ???? & does fuel pump needs electrical power beside mechanical rotation through crank shaft ???? ❤️🇵🇰
Hi Nigel, just done timing chain on 2.4 tdci mk7. All timed up OK, turned engine over twice, engine still timed OK. Put old cover back on, run engine for few minutes all OK. But when checking timing again crank locked, could not get drill bits in cams again as they were slightly out. Is this normal?. Thanks Derek
Os detalhes são importantes, tal como ver os videos completos, existem sempre pormenores que vai dizendo que acaba por ser importante.Se o vídeo for demasiado.abreviado acabamos por perder informação.
You missed tightening the bolt on the rocker gear in the centre 45 degrees. The one on the centre inlet side watch at exactly 32 min mark on your video
Hi ,I need your help please, I got a Ford transit 2,4 diesel, 2009 and I have a problem with head gasket, so I thought to give a go myself, so I'm not a mechanic i took all the engine apart and I assembled again but now does not start, and I notice the cable of glow plugs is getting hot when I start the engine, and on dashboard I got two light one represent MBS bricks and the other one is the slip road or tyres whatever you call it, any idea where the problem is,? thank you.
Hi Nigel,I know nothing about engine building and would like to ask. You say the manual is rubbish and full of errors. The have said that some of the torque requests seem low. Are you not worried about them coming loose enough to use your own judgement?
Hi hoping you can help! Looked with no success. Ford engine 2.2d trying to find bottom crank pulley looking for the one way pulley to try stop the rattle on tensioner. Not a solid plenty of them around. Looking for part number. I can see you know your Engine's.
Great video! Must admit right at the start i nearly closed it though when you mentioned subscribers dropping lol - i was like "oh here we go..." but to be fair, it's a bloody good video. How did you get that engine block looking so pristine? Also on the transit, i need to remove the fuel pump. I'm told there is a way to do so without disturbing the timing / chain. Any clues please? Whats the little chain at the bottom of the engine for? - Does that also need to be replaced with the timing chain? I still can't believe that inlet cam has so few chain links wrapped round it compared to the exhaust... daft design and asking for trouble.
working on a 2.2 euro5 rwd puma . been removing head for inspection/gasket replacement. when I pulled the injectors they all seemed to have oil on the ends ( quite a lot). Any ideas what leads to that? the engine was running with no oil / water mixture.
Are you sure it was oil? Why are you changing the head gasket? I recently saw a Tdci with a blow out in the aluminium between cylinder one and the water jacket.
@@defender90keswick.nigelsla59 Head gasket change is the hopeful outcome that is why I said inspection. I was made aware that head damage was possible, (even more likely) than the gasket. it was losing water, pressurising header when bought by me late last year. I bypassed the egr cooler withstill same problem. because the egr itself has it's own water in and out theoretically I guess the egr itself may have failed. late into the stripping of van to take head thought to try and test the egr by pressurising the water in and out @60psi. not sure this is at all comprehensive but I actually havenot heard anything about an actually egr failure causing the head gasket only the egr cooler and as I say that (egr cooler) was removed and bypassed. on examination , the gasketdoes not seem obviously terrible and obviously breached. it seems worse on the side which mates with engine block. a few people I have consulted have mixed opinions about it. I guess I will need to have it sent for pressure testing . how might I inspect it better myself though? I have cleaned it up quite well. not taken valves out yet but probably will at least to change stem seals and probably lap. assuming the head is not damaged.
I had a an email from youtube saying they have had some technical difficulties so viewing and subscriber numbers may fluctuate???? Nothing wrong with your videos mate.
Yes Tom, it appears they messed up again? It happens all the time and the more subs you have the more you lose. My modelling channel dropped around 300 subs last year.
These HAVE to be one of the very worst engines ever made! They seem to shit themselves big time, pretty much as soon as the warranty is over! Not seen ANYTHING about one of the main reasons these engines fail, that being sulphur free diesel, which is the root cause of many fuel system issues. Anyone unlucky enough to own a car or van with one of these fitted, should be using 2T oil in the diesel, as this will reduce the chances of the otherwise almost inevitable fuel system problems. Personally, I will stick to my old Toyota, and have no need to rebuild something as unreliable as one of these...................
Авто/Мото
These are brilliant. Don't stop doing the detail and don't stop pointing out errors in manuals. Other sites skip the learning points, you provide what feels like 1 to 1 teaching. So much to learn!
Blow by blow .... every nut bolt, washer and drop of threadlock .... the full unexpurgated version for me too, please, Nigel.
As you have said often enough, if anyone doesn’t like that , then .... Oh yes !! .... hit the fast forward !!
A great series, and enjoying every moment of it. 👌👌
Hi Nigel, many thanks for making the extra effort filming the motor rebuild in this epic breadth with all the necessary details!!
It’s just in time, as I am busy since fout months rebuilding my Frog, a 2007 110 TD4 nuts and bolts. Dealing with endless amount of rusty metall and rotten aluminium everywhere.
The chassis was sandblasted and is primed & painted 5-6 times now with at least 5 ltr paint (Brantho-Korrux).
Outside with the spray gun, inside with the pressure cup gun and a sonde/ tube with 360° nozzle. Worked perfect or me.
Instead of watching the paint drying, I am disassembling the motor (250k km) and cleaning/ sandblasting/ painting/ replacing loads of parts.
After looking to your great „how to rebuild an engine“ I was confident enough and now the complete timing and oil chain kits have arrived😊
Thanks again. Ron/ Munich
PS: Yesterday I was looking to your epsiode „MT82 strip down“ and my thoughts are…….why not DIY?
I hope I'm not getting cocky now😊
Don’t stop it’s great seeing someone doing a step by step, am loving them you’re doing a fantastic job 👍🏼
Thanks so much 😊
Nigel - I am really enjoying these videos. Keep doing them just like you are! I am in the middle of pulling my 2.4 Puma engine from my 2008 Defender 110 and about to replace it with a 5.3 LS engine. I sure wish there was a set of videos detailing that project the way you have done this one! I am planning to rebuild my 2.4 Puma engine once I have completed the LS swap and will definitely be using these videos as a reference when I do!!! Thank you for your excellent work!
Excellent channel Nigel - extremely interesting and helpful. Not boring at all. Detail is good. Please keep it going.
Oh no mate I love the detail of this build keep up the good wok can’t wait to see it turning over for the first time
Hi Nigel, I have been a subscriber to both of your channels for quite a while now. I like the format of both just the way they are. I see no need to change anything. See you next time.
Cheers Nigel. Funny you should mention referring to the Transit manual, as I've just found your channel, and in particular this video for guidance on doing the timing chain on my Mk7 Transit. All videos I've found so far, that are actually Transit focused, show very little, and are rushed. I'm very grateful you have this one up, and have filmed it in such detail and so methodically. I can now dive into the front of my big white box with much more confidence.
Thank you very much Sir.
These videos are awesome ! Please don't stop as this helps us very much as I also own a 2.4 TDCi Landrover that we have a head to replace soon.
I realise I'm asking you to take a potential hit with subscribers but my vote is the more detail the better. As far as I am aware this is the only video tutorial on the net that is essentially the workshop manual (and more!) for the Puma. With these cars getting older by the day there is only going to be more demand for your knowledge valuable knowledge in these videos.
Noted!
Nigel, I’m enjoying the detail and am subscribed - please keep it up! I wish you many more subscribers
Im enjoying the detail Nigel ! I am a recent FB member of Defender Puma Owners Group and suggested others check out your channel. Cheers
Awesome, thank you!
I want as much detail as youve got nigel, brilliant stuff.
Please continue as you are. These videos are such a useful resource
Don't stop mate , I SUBSCRIBE to the modelling bench aswell, I don't have a landrover but the videos are interesting and I'm always learning from your videos.
Helping us fix our transit campervan. Legend mate nice one
Great channel please keep the detailed explanation so we can benefit from your great knowledge
Thanks, will do!
I've just come across your channel as I wanted to double check the pump sprocket setup before I time one up tomorrow. Sorry to hear you have lost a few subscribers. Remember that more people appreciate you and what you do, than do not. I once hoped to do what you are with my own channel but unfortunately my circumstances changed and I dedicate all free time I can to my poorly daughter and her sisters.
Anyway, keep your chin up. You're helping others become better all the time.
Dave
2nd time I've used this as a guide, keep it up Nigel 👍
Thanks for an informative video. I wished I had seen it before putting a new tensioner in my 2.4 ford transit. I think I’m 1/2 tooth out on the exhaust side. Cheers
Keep up your good work in to good detail with It as it was what I wanted
Great video, just one thing when releasing the cam chain tensioner do it slowly by holding the guide against it, the pawl can be damaged otherwise
The hole below the fuel pump was used on the first Mk6 transit tdcis’ 2002-2006 2.0 and 2004-2006 2.4. It had a little oil feed pipe going up to the Delphi high pressure pump shaft, like a little drip feed. On the tddi engines the hole wasn’t there at all just fully cast flat.
You definitely got a new subscription from me. Very interesting in my opinion
superb educational video, great in-depth detail, thank you, used this video to set up the timing on a 2.4tdi transit.. subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
Great content, please keep them coming🎉😍
Thank you! Will do!
This was my first video in this series and if I where reconditioning a puma engine I would certainly go through each video in detail. I did get info from this video on the fuel pump that I needed to know.
Detail, detail and detail.... Thanks 👍🏻
My pleasure!
mate thankyou for this
Very very nice job will down 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Merci la vache, vous nous sauvez !!
Gracias amigo por compartir de manera detallada y precisa ésta valiosa información, no había yo reparado un motor de éstos y para asombro me lo topé en un carro chino (JMC) ; nuevamente gracias y que Dios te bendiga a tí y familia
Wow.. Ford sold these to the Chinese??
Fuel pump sprocket can sit at any 4 points due to it bolting to the hub
Thankyou Good help
excellent head , valves & cam shafts & their rotating clutch installation & connection with crank shaft through chain # but where is water pump body ???? & does fuel pump needs electrical power beside mechanical rotation through crank shaft ???? ❤️🇵🇰
Thank you
Hi Nigel, just done timing chain on 2.4 tdci mk7. All timed up OK, turned engine over twice, engine still timed OK. Put old cover back on, run engine for few minutes all OK. But when checking timing again crank locked, could not get drill bits in cams again as they were slightly out. Is this normal?. Thanks Derek
Hi which video do you show the crank locking tool? Thanks
Os detalhes são importantes, tal como ver os videos completos, existem sempre pormenores que vai dizendo que acaba por ser importante.Se o vídeo for demasiado.abreviado acabamos por perder informação.
You missed tightening the bolt on the rocker gear in the centre 45 degrees. The one on the centre inlet side watch at exactly 32 min mark on your video
Great observation there. I did actually do it before I switched the camera on. Thank you.
Good
What size drill bits?
Hi ,I need your help please, I got a Ford transit 2,4 diesel, 2009 and I have a problem with head gasket, so I thought to give a go myself, so I'm not a mechanic i took all the engine apart and I assembled again but now does not start, and I notice the cable of glow plugs is getting hot when I start the engine, and on dashboard I got two light one represent MBS bricks and the other one is the slip road or tyres whatever you call it, any idea where the problem is,? thank you.
If the engine timing is
Ok but the engine can't start what can be wrong please advise
Hi Nigel,I know nothing about engine building and would like to ask. You say the manual is rubbish and full of errors. The have said that some of the torque requests seem low. Are you not worried about them coming loose enough to use your own judgement?
hello,you are know the oil presure in puma engine, tanks you
I'm sorry, I dont. You should be able to find your answer on google?
Hi hoping you can help! Looked with no success. Ford engine 2.2d trying to find bottom crank pulley looking for the one way pulley to try stop the rattle on tensioner. Not a solid plenty of them around. Looking for part number. I can see you know your Engine's.
Sorry mate, cant help. I know nothing about the 2.2
Great video! Must admit right at the start i nearly closed it though when you mentioned subscribers dropping lol - i was like "oh here we go..." but to be fair, it's a bloody good video. How did you get that engine block looking so pristine?
Also on the transit, i need to remove the fuel pump. I'm told there is a way to do so without disturbing the timing / chain. Any clues please?
Whats the little chain at the bottom of the engine for? - Does that also need to be replaced with the timing chain?
I still can't believe that inlet cam has so few chain links wrapped round it compared to the exhaust... daft design and asking for trouble.
The little chain at the bottom is the oil pump drive.
Hie Nigel juss a quick question on this Landy will be the pistons on TDC
You need to consult the manual buddy.
working on a 2.2 euro5 rwd puma . been removing head for inspection/gasket replacement. when I pulled the injectors they all seemed to have oil on the ends ( quite a lot). Any ideas what leads to that? the engine was running with no oil / water mixture.
Are you sure it was oil? Why are you changing the head gasket? I recently saw a Tdci with a blow out in the aluminium between cylinder one and the water jacket.
@@defender90keswick.nigelsla59 Head gasket change is the hopeful outcome that is why I said inspection. I was made aware that head damage was possible, (even more likely) than the gasket. it was losing water, pressurising header when bought by me late last year.
I bypassed the egr cooler withstill same problem. because the egr itself has it's own water in and out theoretically I guess the egr itself may have failed. late into the stripping of van to take head thought to try and test the egr by pressurising the water in and out @60psi. not sure this is at all comprehensive but I actually havenot heard anything about an actually egr failure causing the head gasket only the egr cooler and as I say that (egr cooler) was removed and bypassed.
on examination , the gasketdoes not seem obviously terrible and obviously breached. it seems worse on the side which mates with engine block. a few people I have consulted have mixed opinions about it. I guess I will need to have it sent for pressure testing . how might I inspect it better myself though? I have cleaned it up quite well. not taken valves out yet but probably will at least to change stem seals and probably lap. assuming the head is not damaged.
@@defender90keswick.nigelsla59 rereading your comment. at first i assumed you meant in the head, not thinking. How was this evident?
I had a an email from youtube saying they have had some technical difficulties so viewing and subscriber numbers may fluctuate????
Nothing wrong with your videos mate.
Yes Tom, it appears they messed up again? It happens all the time and the more subs you have the more you lose. My modelling channel dropped around 300 subs last year.
Put a new o ring from o ring shop
don't change a thing
These HAVE to be one of the very worst engines ever made! They seem to shit themselves big time, pretty much as soon as the warranty is over!
Not seen ANYTHING about one of the main reasons these engines fail, that being sulphur free diesel, which is the root cause of many fuel system issues.
Anyone unlucky enough to own a car or van with one of these fitted, should be using 2T oil in the diesel, as this will reduce the chances of the otherwise almost inevitable fuel system problems.
Personally, I will stick to my old Toyota, and have no need to rebuild something as unreliable as one of these...................