Definitely more 3D printing tips and tricks. I have an older printer but it works and I’m using the Fusion software. There’s a lot to learn in that program so it’s helpful to see someone doing something I made need to do.
I would like to see more 3d design videos! In particular, I would love to see one that tackles block off plates. I am dealing with a Honda Accord's inner door, and they have a lot of curves for the block off plates which is making it difficult. I am currently using a Prusa mini as well as an Elegoo Saturn2 Resin Printer.
Pro tip: Design your parts to accommodate the threaded inserts in reverse. Install the threaded inserts into the rear of your parts. That way, the machine fasteners pull the inserts into the parts, and you arent relying on the melted substrate and mechanical keying of the insert alone to hold the torque of the screws. Would be good to see a video with this idea in mind
Yeah. He made a newbie mistake there. Inserts on 3D printed parts are best inserted from the back... otherwise if you tighten hard enough, you'll pull the insert with not much holding it in.
I use 3d printing for car audio, air ride parts, controller amounts. It's been a game changer as far as what I can fabricate! I have 3 printers. Ender 3 , Flash forge Creator pro 2 and an any cubic Photon M3. I use Fusion 360 to design everything. I use Send cut send a lot for metal / carbon fiber parts too. Love to see more 3d printing on the channel. Keep on rocking!
I am new to 3D printing. I printed my own speaker adapters, but the one install I did for myself is too new to evaluate the long-term durability of my prints. So, take this with a grain of salt. That said, I have two 3D print design options to consider: 1. Rather than increase the line counts of all walls to reinforce the area around the insert, I designed in a very thin tube (0.05") concentric about the insert hole to trick the print slicer into doubling the wall thickness around the insert only. The print slicer sees two walls, but the printer melts them together as one double-thick wall. The goal is to speed up print times for printers that are ungodly slow. 2. I installed the threaded inserts on the backside of the part to reduce the risk of the insert pulling out, in case that is a mode of failure. For thicker parts, you have to be extra careful in making sure the insert is perpendicular to the mounting surface. The speaker adapter in this video would not be the best candidate for this approach due to the mounting surface angle, which would make an underside threaded insert a little trickier to keep perpendicular to the speaker mounting surface.
Both great ideas. I’ve had 2) happen to me as I once tried to sandwich the interior panel in between the bracket and the speaker.. that was not a great idea.
I’ve inserted a lot of these overs the years… I’ve found that if possible adding them to the bottom of the part is much stronger, so the threads can’t be pulled out if over tightened.
Id love to see this entire process. Even if i dont plan on using this method or maybe using it down the road, the knowledge gained cant be replaced. I think its an awesome tool to 3d print and that adapter looks top notch
3D printing has been such a useful tool for me. I didn't measure my sub before buying it so my box was too shallow for it. I ended up making a bezel for it with my printer to extend the sub out about an inch and it fits perfect. Took me a total of about 5 hours to design and print it all.
I have a Creality CR10-V3, which I've used to print tweeter mounts, speaker adapters, and fog lamp mounts for my vehicle. 3D printing definitely takes customization to the next level.
I designed and printed nearly identical spacer adapters in 2019 to fit larger speakers into my doors without hitting anything inside the door. Though, I used small holes and course thread screws as self-tappers instead of threaded inserts and hadn't thought about angled spacers!
Had a shop quote me an outrageous amount to do a simple door speaker replacement, the big selling point was “we make these custom acrylic brackets”…ok cool, but for less than their install I was able to buy a 3D printer and make my own adapters. Came out so good and in the end I was able to replace my tweeters and center channel speakers much easier as well by printing custom adapters that would’ve been impossible to cut from wood I started out with a creality ender 3 v2 but have upgraded, since it’s such a useful tool for more than just car audio, to a bambu labs x1 carbon
Ive had to mono price ultimates for about 5 years and they are still kicking and working like champs. Love seeing 3D printing used in areas other than novelty items.
I have not considered using my 3d printer for car audio, but now it is on my list to do. I do need to print some new tweeter mounts for my F150! I am currently using an Ender 3 V2, but also looking to get a 2nd printer that has a larger print surface and can print ABS. Keep the 3D print videos coming!!
Great video. I have used my 3d printer mainly for tweeter rings and for boxes to mount passive crossovers in. Currently using a Creality Ender 3 Pro. I mainly use pla filament for prototypes and then abs filament for final production.
Ender makes some solid machines for sure! Definitely need ABS for in the car environment, PLA unfortunately gets too soft once the sun starts beating on it, I wish it didn't though, its soooo much easier to print with. Thanks for being a CAF member and getting early access!
@@CarAudioFabrication PETG is definitely the way to go. It prints almost as easy as PLA, and doesn't need the high temperatures of ABS, but it will hold up to warm and cold car temperatures in ways that PLA will not. It also won't crack as easily as PLA if you're using it to make parts that support weight or experience forces like a phone mount or something like that.
Yes, I use 3D printing for Car Audio Parts as well as for drift- and racecars, custom parts, karting and home applications. I currently have a Flashforge printer with a slightly to small bed. Still a favorite tool alongside the AC/DC TIG.
I have used my ender 3 pro to make custom Tweeter mounts for my car. Great video, just make sure that you're using a suitable printing material, PLA will deform in a hot car during summer.
I have not used 3D printing for car audio. But I have used it for spacers and mounts on my car and motorcycle. I have the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon with AMS. I also have 2 Ender 3 Pros.
I do the same with making thicker walls, It makes the whole part stronger. I have two 3D printers, a DMS DP5 for PLA and an enclosed and heated Bibo for ABS.
Just keep in mind the way you FDM print is a process of heating PLA to melt it to form your part , you can use PLA+ or a ABS filimint but Is usually harder to work with (because of worping if not using a heated print encloser) and we know it can get very hot in a car I've seen 130°F before so this could lead to your part deforming over time, good luck with everything and I love your videos and car audio in general
Starting following your videos about a month ago. Very interesting how far the technology has come with regard to car audio from when I was younger. Looking to build a system into my Subaru once I get the car running. Yes, would like to see more videos like this with regard to 3D printing and fabrication. From measuring to software design. Keep up the videos.
I could be wrong, but I believe I remember hearing an engineer I worked with say that you only needed 4 threads deep on a mechanical screw to achieve maximum, or near maximum hold.
I use a Prusa Mk3S+ and Fusion360 to make parts. I just printed some 4x6 to 4+Tw adaptors for my 1980 Corvette and next is a switchplate to replace the ashtray.
I'd love to see some videos specifically on the design side. I have not gotten into 3d printing but I am looking todo so in the very near future. I just would love to see more videos on it and see your options and even your failures to help those like myself that are getting into it.
I have 3d printed speaker adapters for use in doors of the car before but never had good luck with the inserts holding with 3 outer walls. I have an ender 3 pro (sitting on the shelf) and a Bambu P1P. I print all my abs/asa/PET-CF with the P1P.
I have a Creality Ender 3V2. I’ve converted the bed to coated magnetic spring steel. I converted the Bowden setup to direct drive with the Microswiss NG all metal hotend. This lets me print hotter temperatures and flexible filaments more easily. I converted the firmware to klipper using the Creality Sonic Pad. It adds a lot of features. I can send prints to it directly from my slicer and I can control it and see it on a webcam from my web browser. It also greatly increases the speed and somewhat increases the quality of prints. Klipper isn’t for everyone, but it’s great if you are familiar with computer programming or Linux terminals and editing Linux files. Oh yeah, don’t buy an ender 3 of any variety anymore. They used to be the flagship cheap printer, but so many competitors have better printers for the same price or less now.
I need to start getting into using these inserts. Awesome video! Haven’t done much with my audio in my x5 lately but with most definitely be making some custom speaker mounts and amp racks when I get my printer properly set up to print higher grade materials. Just an fyi at the very least I would only use Abs for any type or bracket in a vehicle. A material like pla will not last especially with heat it’ll melt. My printer is a Bambu lab P1P. Currently getting a custom heated enclosure made to be able to reliably print abs, nylon & pc.
Great video! I actually just bought a creality ender 3 V2 printer and having ways to incorporate 3d printing into custom car audio is something I’m definitely interested in watching. Keep up the great work!
Have you tried simply threading holes directly? Works flawlessly for me. I've had no issues with PETG doing it this way. I find it helps to add ~0.1 - 0.2 mm to the I.D. of the hole I model for the tap drill size depending on the diameter.
plastic threads are not as good as metal. They are fine for many things, but as he said in the video "we can take these screws in and out as many times we want without degrading the quality of that hole". If for some reason you have to take your speakers in and out several times, it can be quite easy to strip out those holes. Inserts like this are pretty overkill as far as holding strength goes, it's more of the serviceability part. Plus he seems to like to go overkill on random things like this.
I do like the 3d printing ideas for custom audio. I have a Prusa MK3S which is well supported vs a generic one. Thank you for your content I’ve learned a lot from your videos.
definitely use mine, im running a very modded out Ender 3v2. direct drive, dual Z screws, metal hotend. running octopi. I see you use ABS. note to others, if you make your part from PLA or PLA+, IT WILL melt or get brittle in a car over time or if its really hot. I live in Texas and printed a 2 liter cup holder adapter. I replaced it with one made from PETG+ and have had 0 issues.
I also have the Ender 3v2 as yours. It was my little workhorse. If you upgrade go straight to the E3 S1 pro or non-pro line. It's a much more reliable printer and much faster with the Sonic Pad.
I highly recommend you DO NOT use PLA for any 3D printed part that will be in a car. PETG will withstand the heat without warping MUCH better. Printing ABS is prolly the best for this application but it's nasty to print as it tends to give off lots of fumes. BUT YES, I am so glad I have a 3D printer where I can design and build EXACTLY what I need. It's amazing!!! (edit: I use a Prusa Mini with the Prusa Slicer and it works flawlessly but I've been seriously considering switching to CURA slicer for the tree supports. Turns out they are far more important than I originally thought.)
Plus ABS sucks ass to print in general if you dont have an enclosed printer. I run Cura and I like it. tree is awesome, careful when using them with ABS, they dont like to stick. I usually end up with 0.5 kg of spiderwebs in the trash can per print.. LOL
You can add more walls to holes for threaded inserts without adding extra walls to the whole print by designing extremely thin rings that cut around the holes. This will cause the slicer to add extra walls around those rings. If you make them thin enough they will print as additional solid walls. You can also add strength to other areas of prints or block LED light bleeding without increasing infill or wall count by adding thin lines that cut from the model.
i love the videos mark! thanks to you i have now started my little audio shop where i install systems and fabricate! i would love to see a video where you use suade as a material for wrapping a box or tweet panel!
Use the Ender 3 Neo V2. I use it for custom USB and peripheral components. Usually wind up wrapping in leather or suede, to avoid post processing for painting.
Always great to see new videos from you Mark, 3D printing has really changed the game of car audio and installation. I find myself making templates or bezels or adapters all the time and I’ve been using those inserts for a while now, they just make life a lot easier. I have 4 printers running , I have 2 Prusa clones an Ender 3 and for bigger prints an Ender 5plus. Thanks for doing these videos buddy can’t wait to see what you have up next.
Hi I found your channel and I’m acquiring the knowledge to wire my truck. I would love to see what equipment and methods you use to print 3d components. Thank you and keep up the great work.
I got a larger printer. The challenge so far has been bed leveling. My bed is cupped. Thus far, auto bed leveling hasn't fixed the problem. Large prints and small prints require different settings... or a Post-it notes under the removable layer of the bed. Prints that require the entire bed haven't been great. So, I've been able to print router guides for subwoofers, 6" speaker adapters, but not both (or two medium-sized parts) at the same time.
I’m using a Prusa mini and I have a Prusa XL on order. Keep up the good work also, what material are you using ABS or PLA. I am asking due to the heat in inside a car during the summer.
I bought one to print rings for tweeters and mids on the dash, moved and broke a part on my ender (just have to order the parts). Definitely would be interested in learning the designing portion as well.
Hi love the video on brass inserts and the 3D Printing. I am looking into getting a 3D Printer and wanted to know what’s a good one to get in the budget range $1000 to $1500. Tks
This would have been quite helpful for me about a year ago! I have an Ender 3 Max and have printed numerous things for my installs. including custom door panel adapters for my F-150 using Audison 8's.
I use a Prusa MK3S+ for other projects and have been wanting to get into more car audio deigns with it - I would love more of this content. What material are you using? I don't think PLA would be a good choice due to the heat - I was thinking ASA or ABS but I don't have an enclosure.
I have an ender 3 pro and ender 3 v2. The only thing I would have liked to see you mention is what material you used. I would not recommend pla for an automotive application.
I'm curious as to how long it would take to either spend the time (and money) providing one had all the tools and materials to do either a custom speaker pod made of wood...or a custom pod made of wood and carbon fiber or epoxy resin...or the 3D printer route... I come from the old school and have not purchased ANY 3D printing paraphernalia as (in my present situation) have had no need or excess funds to be able to purchase said items... My thoughts are ... wondering if the sound reproduction differs (for those audiophiles that don't have a sound processor that can manipulate signals etc) and the other question is cost of media vs wood vs epoxy/ carbon fiber .... Would be interesting to see if given the same problem to be solved and had 3 equally skilled installers and had all the tools and materials in house.... Which one would be best???? I can see if you were gonna batch out a WHOLE LOT of speaker pads for a car that would benefit from the angled pod vs factory options...(which usually aren't good) I did move from auto stereo and alarm installation to auto upholstery work ...but since being married and my drive to get things done and doing things as unto the Lord and not wanting to put things off....I was spending WAY too long at the workplace and less time at home.... So after a few years of marriage and now in the Healthcare industry as an x-ray tech... I sure do miss having stuff I can work with my hands on that won't get offended if I misgender them... Obviously there are certain fads that are not gonna have staying power...but seemingly I was curious if there has been the competition between different schools of thought over which was is not only cost effective, accurate sound reproduction, and turn around time wise.... Any insights out there from the guys in the know?
Im using a Anycubic Mega S. Its a cheap but good to go if you use good Fillament and add some Hairspray to the Heatbed if you use Abs oder ABS+ what i do. Just the leveling is a little pain during the process to learn what distance you have to use for a good result. But if you have leveling tins (mostly used to mesure car sparklingplugs) And have enough time than it will be yours. Its a good cheap way to start with 3D Printing. And the best is, you can it fit into a IKEA cabinet so i build a computer dest that has at one side the cabinet and at the other side 2 standart cheap ikea desk legs. And the deskplate is a standart kitchen plate 😂 It looks like so that you can buy in a Designer Furniture shop. But its all just made by me 😂 And no one recognize that there is a 3D Printer in my Home. And you pretty need a Cabinet to Print ABS or Abs+ for good results. But pay attention and dont start a fire 😂 You have to know what you do
I haven’t 3d printed anything car audio related for my car since I’ve bought it. I haven’t customized anything in my car audio in this car, yet. I have 3d printed a phone holder and I designed and printed a tray that inserts into my armrest storage area.
I would love to see more design ideas and tips-and-tricks for designing 3D car audio parts. I know using PLA would not be advisable for in car applications and I’ve had issues printing with ABS, can anyone speak to the durability of PETG for door speaker brackets? Also, I use an Ender 3 v2 and an Ender 5 Pro.
Hello Sir, really liked your detailed video, but I just need to ask something is that I want to upgrade my truck speakers, can I install the car component speakers in 24v truck… looking forward to hearing from you soon, thank you in advance
I had a 3d printer that I got for like $200 back in 2016 when 3d printers weren't cheap for good ones. I was able to get a decent print out then the next one would always have something weird happen we ended up just throwing that one out and haven't really messed with it since. I was thinking of getting a cr-10 s5 so I can print up to 500mm but I only really help my friends and family with car audio so I don't know if I would have a large enough use case to justify it.
Yup they’re pretty cool, i only knew about these when i built a voron printer and after that i was hooked and ordered a few hundred packs for my day to day projects were as before i would just tap a thread on the printed part itself and it was skiddesh, sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn’t but i wondered how strong the part truly was. Update: not that strong and if you insert metric screws a few times because its revision after revision the og part you’re trying to screw into gets wobbly and eventually fails. Can’t recommend inserts enough, it basically makes a 3d part hold just has strong as a injection molded
This is very useful.. the 3d printing for things like this. Question though.. is the 3d print going to alter the sound in any way.. e.g. vibrations from sound being affected by the material of the 3d print vs say.. wood.. or fiberglass? If so.. would using rubber washers between speaker and mount aid in that in any way? As well.. what material to handle potentially loud audio? I would think you'd want ABS or CF material for its stronger properties? Or is PETG or even PLA enough?
The extractor is used mostly to recycle the inserts, not to replace a broken insert with a new one. If you want to replace an insert you should add a bit of plastic with 3d pen before inserting a new insert and also lower your expectations.
I'm intrigued with the 3D printers. But it really isn't worth the price, personally, to get one for the little I'd use it. I have thought of building a mock up of a pod and finding a local company 3D print them for me. But even that seems to be cost prohibitive. But if there are enough others that it will be worthwhile for you to produce some videos, I'll be watching!!!
Presumably removing the inserts: 1. Allows you to reuse the insert. 2. Allows you to recycle the plastic without contaminating. If I'm removing inserts it is likely that I'll be binning the plastic.
Would you guys like to see more 3d design videos in the future? What 3d printer do you have?
😎Thanks for watching! I appreciate you!
Def would and how to use a 3d printer!
Yes!! Id like to do this in my overland suburban
Definitely more 3D printing tips and tricks. I have an older printer but it works and I’m using the Fusion software. There’s a lot to learn in that program so it’s helpful to see someone doing something I made need to do.
I would like to see more 3d design videos! In particular, I would love to see one that tackles block off plates. I am dealing with a Honda Accord's inner door, and they have a lot of curves for the block off plates which is making it difficult. I am currently using a Prusa mini as well as an Elegoo Saturn2 Resin Printer.
Interested in more 3D printing info
Pro tip:
Design your parts to accommodate the threaded inserts in reverse. Install the threaded inserts into the rear of your parts.
That way, the machine fasteners pull the inserts into the parts, and you arent relying on the melted substrate and mechanical keying of the insert alone to hold the torque of the screws.
Would be good to see a video with this idea in mind
Yeah. He made a newbie mistake there. Inserts on 3D printed parts are best inserted from the back... otherwise if you tighten hard enough, you'll pull the insert with not much holding it in.
I use 3d printing for car audio, air ride parts, controller amounts. It's been a game changer as far as what I can fabricate! I have 3 printers. Ender 3 , Flash forge Creator pro 2 and an any cubic Photon M3. I use Fusion 360 to design everything. I use Send cut send a lot for metal / carbon fiber parts too. Love to see more 3d printing on the channel. Keep on rocking!
I need some 3d pri ting services
Which one do you like out of the bunch the most?
I can’t figure it the design programs for it. Gotta find the right one
Definitely keep the 3d printed content coming. It’s a big part of the future of so many industries, not just car audio.
I am new to 3D printing. I printed my own speaker adapters, but the one install I did for myself is too new to evaluate the long-term durability of my prints. So, take this with a grain of salt. That said, I have two 3D print design options to consider:
1. Rather than increase the line counts of all walls to reinforce the area around the insert, I designed in a very thin tube (0.05") concentric about the insert hole to trick the print slicer into doubling the wall thickness around the insert only. The print slicer sees two walls, but the printer melts them together as one double-thick wall. The goal is to speed up print times for printers that are ungodly slow.
2. I installed the threaded inserts on the backside of the part to reduce the risk of the insert pulling out, in case that is a mode of failure. For thicker parts, you have to be extra careful in making sure the insert is perpendicular to the mounting surface. The speaker adapter in this video would not be the best candidate for this approach due to the mounting surface angle, which would make an underside threaded insert a little trickier to keep perpendicular to the speaker mounting surface.
Both great ideas. I’ve had 2) happen to me as I once tried to sandwich the interior panel in between the bracket and the speaker.. that was not a great idea.
I’ve inserted a lot of these overs the years… I’ve found that if possible adding them to the bottom of the part is much stronger, so the threads can’t be pulled out if over tightened.
Id love to see this entire process. Even if i dont plan on using this method or maybe using it down the road, the knowledge gained cant be replaced. I think its an awesome tool to 3d print and that adapter looks top notch
3D printing has been such a useful tool for me. I didn't measure my sub before buying it so my box was too shallow for it. I ended up making a bezel for it with my printer to extend the sub out about an inch and it fits perfect. Took me a total of about 5 hours to design and print it all.
I have a Creality CR10-V3, which I've used to print tweeter mounts, speaker adapters, and fog lamp mounts for my vehicle. 3D printing definitely takes customization to the next level.
I designed and printed nearly identical spacer adapters in 2019 to fit larger speakers into my doors without hitting anything inside the door. Though, I used small holes and course thread screws as self-tappers instead of threaded inserts and hadn't thought about angled spacers!
Had a shop quote me an outrageous amount to do a simple door speaker replacement, the big selling point was “we make these custom acrylic brackets”…ok cool, but for less than their install I was able to buy a 3D printer and make my own adapters.
Came out so good and in the end I was able to replace my tweeters and center channel speakers much easier as well by printing custom adapters that would’ve been impossible to cut from wood
I started out with a creality ender 3 v2 but have upgraded, since it’s such a useful tool for more than just car audio, to a bambu labs x1 carbon
Ive had to mono price ultimates for about 5 years and they are still kicking and working like champs. Love seeing 3D printing used in areas other than novelty items.
I have not considered using my 3d printer for car audio, but now it is on my list to do. I do need to print some new tweeter mounts for my F150! I am currently using an Ender 3 V2, but also looking to get a 2nd printer that has a larger print surface and can print ABS. Keep the 3D print videos coming!!
w a box around an ender you can do abs
Great video. I have used my 3d printer mainly for tweeter rings and for boxes to mount passive crossovers in. Currently using a Creality Ender 3 Pro. I mainly use pla filament for prototypes and then abs filament for final production.
Ender makes some solid machines for sure! Definitely need ABS for in the car environment, PLA unfortunately gets too soft once the sun starts beating on it, I wish it didn't though, its soooo much easier to print with. Thanks for being a CAF member and getting early access!
PETG works well too and it's not as prone to warping as ABS, nor does it require the ventilation that ABS does.
@@CarAudioFabrication PETG is definitely the way to go. It prints almost as easy as PLA, and doesn't need the high temperatures of ABS, but it will hold up to warm and cold car temperatures in ways that PLA will not. It also won't crack as easily as PLA if you're using it to make parts that support weight or experience forces like a phone mount or something like that.
So sick. Perfect for cars that don’t have speaker or tweeter adapters available.
Yes, I use 3D printing for Car Audio Parts as well as for drift- and racecars, custom parts, karting and home applications. I currently have a Flashforge printer with a slightly to small bed. Still a favorite tool alongside the AC/DC TIG.
The quality work you do is remarkable on RUclips. Quality Car audio, 3D printing, clean finishes. 🤌🏾
I have used my ender 3 pro to make custom Tweeter mounts for my car. Great video, just make sure that you're using a suitable printing material, PLA will deform in a hot car during summer.
YES! More 3D printing content! Ended3 v2, Fusion360, Cura. Great video as always!
Yes! 3d printing parts would be an appreciated addition to your education. Love your videos
I have not used 3D printing for car audio. But I have used it for spacers and mounts on my car and motorcycle. I have the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon with AMS. I also have 2 Ender 3 Pros.
you can also put the heat set on the bottom of the part to make it more resistant to pulling the heat set out of the plastic
I do the same with making thicker walls, It makes the whole part stronger. I have two 3D printers, a DMS DP5 for PLA and an enclosed and heated Bibo for ABS.
Jealous of the shop, all the right tools, and being able to really enjoy the variety of tasks. Thanks for helping me set goals :)
Just keep in mind the way you FDM print is a process of heating PLA to melt it to form your part , you can use PLA+ or a ABS filimint but Is usually harder to work with (because of worping if not using a heated print encloser) and we know it can get very hot in a car I've seen 130°F before so this could lead to your part deforming over time, good luck with everything and I love your videos and car audio in general
I designed and printed a horned port once. Worked amazingly well.
Love KnuConcepts - Great Products ! Glad to see them as a sponsor
Loved this video, looking forward to see more 3d designing and printing car audio parts. 👍
Starting following your videos about a month ago. Very interesting how far the technology has come with regard to car audio from when I was younger. Looking to build a system into my Subaru once I get the car running. Yes, would like to see more videos like this with regard to 3D printing and fabrication. From measuring to software design. Keep up the videos.
Yes, would really enjoy seeing your process for creating speaker rings. We have an Ender 3 V2 Neo.
I could be wrong, but I believe I remember hearing an engineer I worked with say that you only needed 4 threads deep on a mechanical screw to achieve maximum, or near maximum hold.
Yep, I am looking to buy a 3d printer. I didn't trust the earlier models but think the technology is worthwhile getting into now
I use a Prusa Mk3S+ and Fusion360 to make parts. I just printed some 4x6 to 4+Tw adaptors for my 1980 Corvette and next is a switchplate to replace the ashtray.
I'd love to see some videos specifically on the design side. I have not gotten into 3d printing but I am looking todo so in the very near future. I just would love to see more videos on it and see your options and even your failures to help those like myself that are getting into it.
I have 3d printed speaker adapters for use in doors of the car before but never had good luck with the inserts holding with 3 outer walls.
I have an ender 3 pro (sitting on the shelf) and a Bambu P1P. I print all my abs/asa/PET-CF with the P1P.
I have a Creality Ender 3V2. I’ve converted the bed to coated magnetic spring steel. I converted the Bowden setup to direct drive with the Microswiss NG all metal hotend. This lets me print hotter temperatures and flexible filaments more easily. I converted the firmware to klipper using the Creality Sonic Pad. It adds a lot of features. I can send prints to it directly from my slicer and I can control it and see it on a webcam from my web browser. It also greatly increases the speed and somewhat increases the quality of prints. Klipper isn’t for everyone, but it’s great if you are familiar with computer programming or Linux terminals and editing Linux files.
Oh yeah, don’t buy an ender 3 of any variety anymore. They used to be the flagship cheap printer, but so many competitors have better printers for the same price or less now.
Some 3d design videos would be awesome. Your videos are always very descriptive and helpful!
Thanks for this. I bought a heat set insert kit a while back but was not sure how to use them. Another great video.
I need to start getting into using these inserts. Awesome video! Haven’t done much with my audio in my x5 lately but with most definitely be making some custom speaker mounts and amp racks when I get my printer properly set up to print higher grade materials.
Just an fyi at the very least I would only use Abs for any type or bracket in a vehicle. A material like pla will not last especially with heat it’ll melt.
My printer is a Bambu lab P1P. Currently getting a custom heated enclosure made to be able to reliably print abs, nylon & pc.
Great video! I actually just bought a creality ender 3 V2 printer and having ways to incorporate 3d printing into custom car audio is something I’m definitely interested in watching. Keep up the great work!
I have done exactly this for my car as it had non-standard speaker hole placement, it works really well as I could also use it as a spacer
in fact the adapter i made was super similar to the one you showed!
3d printing has definitely changed the game for making up some custom parts!
Videos on the design process would indeed be interesting.
Yes, more 3D printing software please. Also, some recommendation on 3D printers and the plastics used in it. Thanks, I love your channel by the way.
Have you tried simply threading holes directly? Works flawlessly for me. I've had no issues with PETG doing it this way. I find it helps to add ~0.1 - 0.2 mm to the I.D. of the hole I model for the tap drill size depending on the diameter.
plastic threads are not as good as metal. They are fine for many things, but as he said in the video "we can take these screws in and out as many times we want without degrading the quality of that hole". If for some reason you have to take your speakers in and out several times, it can be quite easy to strip out those holes. Inserts like this are pretty overkill as far as holding strength goes, it's more of the serviceability part. Plus he seems to like to go overkill on random things like this.
I do like the 3d printing ideas for custom audio. I have a Prusa MK3S which is well supported vs a generic one. Thank you for your content I’ve learned a lot from your videos.
definitely use mine, im running a very modded out Ender 3v2. direct drive, dual Z screws, metal hotend. running octopi. I see you use ABS. note to others, if you make your part from PLA or PLA+, IT WILL melt or get brittle in a car over time or if its really hot. I live in Texas and printed a 2 liter cup holder adapter. I replaced it with one made from PETG+ and have had 0 issues.
Thanks. From Sweden.
Thanks for watching!
I also have the Ender 3v2 as yours. It was my little workhorse. If you upgrade go straight to the E3 S1 pro or non-pro line. It's a much more reliable printer and much faster with the Sonic Pad.
This is an awesome idea, using the 3d printer to make the bracket for the speakers.
Definitely interested in the design side of the printing. BTW my printers are a OG Ender 3 and a Ender 3v2
Definitely seeing a lot of guys rocking the Enders. Thanks for watching!
@@CarAudioFabrication bro I've been watching since you had Doug in a cameo. You're the reason I started watching him
Yes, I'm interested do an in-depth tutorial.
I highly recommend you DO NOT use PLA for any 3D printed part that will be in a car. PETG will withstand the heat without warping MUCH better. Printing ABS is prolly the best for this application but it's nasty to print as it tends to give off lots of fumes. BUT YES, I am so glad I have a 3D printer where I can design and build EXACTLY what I need. It's amazing!!! (edit: I use a Prusa Mini with the Prusa Slicer and it works flawlessly but I've been seriously considering switching to CURA slicer for the tree supports. Turns out they are far more important than I originally thought.)
Plus ABS sucks ass to print in general if you dont have an enclosed printer. I run Cura and I like it. tree is awesome, careful when using them with ABS, they dont like to stick. I usually end up with 0.5 kg of spiderwebs in the trash can per print.. LOL
You can add more walls to holes for threaded inserts without adding extra walls to the whole print by designing extremely thin rings that cut around the holes. This will cause the slicer to add extra walls around those rings. If you make them thin enough they will print as additional solid walls. You can also add strength to other areas of prints or block LED light bleeding without increasing infill or wall count by adding thin lines that cut from the model.
Yes more 3d printing designs please!
i love the videos mark! thanks to you i have now started my little audio shop where i install systems and fabricate! i would love to see a video where you use suade as a material for wrapping a box or tweet panel!
Use the Ender 3 Neo V2. I use it for custom USB and peripheral components. Usually wind up wrapping in leather or suede, to avoid post processing for painting.
i just put the tip of my soldering iron in the hole of the insert and push in, works every time
Always great to see new videos from you Mark, 3D printing has really changed the game of car audio and installation. I find myself making templates or bezels or adapters all the time and I’ve been using those inserts for a while now, they just make life a lot easier. I have 4 printers running , I have 2 Prusa clones an Ender 3 and for bigger prints an Ender 5plus. Thanks for doing these videos buddy can’t wait to see what you have up next.
Please make a detailed video or series on 3d designing, 3d printing and 3d scanning. Software and hardware/tools that you use.
Hi I found your channel and I’m acquiring the knowledge to wire my truck. I would love to see what equipment and methods you use to print 3d components. Thank you and keep up the great work.
I love 3d printing. I have an ender 3 pro Neo. I’d like to get a larger one eventually.
I got a larger printer. The challenge so far has been bed leveling. My bed is cupped. Thus far, auto bed leveling hasn't fixed the problem.
Large prints and small prints require different settings... or a Post-it notes under the removable layer of the bed. Prints that require the entire bed haven't been great. So, I've been able to print router guides for subwoofers, 6" speaker adapters, but not both (or two medium-sized parts) at the same time.
Yes, would love to see how you designed this. Also what software is a good and cost affective (preferably free software)
I’m using a Prusa mini and I have a Prusa XL on order. Keep up the good work also, what material are you using ABS or PLA. I am asking due to the heat in inside a car during the summer.
This video is very cool and I am going to get me a good 3d printer to do just that
I have a 2013 GS350 and am planning on 3D printing sail panel tweeter pods. Currently it has no sail panels
I bought one to print rings for tweeters and mids on the dash, moved and broke a part on my ender (just have to order the parts). Definitely would be interested in learning the designing portion as well.
Hi love the video on brass inserts and the 3D Printing. I am looking into getting a 3D Printer and wanted to know what’s a good one to get in the budget range $1000 to $1500. Tks
This would have been quite helpful for me about a year ago! I have an Ender 3 Max and have printed numerous things for my installs. including custom door panel adapters for my F-150 using Audison 8's.
Love the 3D stuff I need to get into it
I would have thought adding the heat mounts on the other side would sandwich the plastic and hold together much better.
I use 3d printing for creating speaker adapters the same way you do. I want to build a 3d printer sub enclosure next, have you done that before?
The Conductor from sparked innovations is s great ground distribution block too
Yes I’m interested in designing 3d speaker adapter
I use a Prusa MK3S+ for other projects and have been wanting to get into more car audio deigns with it - I would love more of this content. What material are you using? I don't think PLA would be a good choice due to the heat - I was thinking ASA or ABS but I don't have an enclosure.
More 3d printing please.
Yess please more of these videoooosss 😍🙏
I would suggest installing inserts on the opposite side, so the tension would pull it IN the print, not out of it
im interested in how to make pods like this for scooters so video will be great to learn 3d printing
I have an ender 3 pro and ender 3 v2. The only thing I would have liked to see you mention is what material you used. I would not recommend pla for an automotive application.
Cool.
I deal with steel more. So rivnuts are my thing.
Awesome video! Your top layer looks a bit under extruded. It could definitely use some more flow to produce a better looking and stronger print.
I'm curious as to how long it would take to either spend the time (and money) providing one had all the tools and materials to do either a custom speaker pod made of wood...or a custom pod made of wood and carbon fiber or epoxy resin...or the 3D printer route...
I come from the old school and have not purchased ANY 3D printing paraphernalia as (in my present situation) have had no need or excess funds to be able to purchase said items...
My thoughts are ... wondering if the sound reproduction differs (for those audiophiles that don't have a sound processor that can manipulate signals etc) and the other question is cost of media vs wood vs epoxy/ carbon fiber ....
Would be interesting to see if given the same problem to be solved and had 3 equally skilled installers and had all the tools and materials in house....
Which one would be best????
I can see if you were gonna batch out a WHOLE LOT of speaker pads for a car that would benefit from the angled pod vs factory options...(which usually aren't good)
I did move from auto stereo and alarm installation to auto upholstery work ...but since being married and my drive to get things done and doing things as unto the Lord and not wanting to put things off....I was spending WAY too long at the workplace and less time at home....
So after a few years of marriage and now in the Healthcare industry as an x-ray tech... I sure do miss having stuff I can work with my hands on that won't get offended if I misgender them...
Obviously there are certain fads that are not gonna have staying power...but seemingly I was curious if there has been the competition between different schools of thought over which was is not only cost effective, accurate sound reproduction, and turn around time wise....
Any insights out there from the guys in the know?
Im using a Anycubic Mega S.
Its a cheap but good to go if you use good Fillament and add some Hairspray to the Heatbed if you use Abs oder ABS+ what i do.
Just the leveling is a little pain during the process to learn what distance you have to use for a good result.
But if you have leveling tins (mostly used to mesure car sparklingplugs)
And have enough time than it will be yours.
Its a good cheap way to start with 3D Printing.
And the best is, you can it fit into a IKEA cabinet so i build a computer dest that has at one side the cabinet and at the other side 2 standart cheap ikea desk legs. And the deskplate is a standart kitchen plate 😂
It looks like so that you can buy in a Designer Furniture shop.
But its all just made by me 😂
And no one recognize that there is a 3D Printer in my Home.
And you pretty need a Cabinet to Print ABS or Abs+ for good results.
But pay attention and dont start a fire 😂
You have to know what you do
I haven’t 3d printed anything car audio related for my car since I’ve bought it. I haven’t customized anything in my car audio in this car, yet. I have 3d printed a phone holder and I designed and printed a tray that inserts into my armrest storage area.
Can you do a video on the making of the bracket ?
Enders 3v2 neo. Would love to see more design work on the channel.
I would love to see more design ideas and tips-and-tricks for designing 3D car audio parts. I know using PLA would not be advisable for in car applications and I’ve had issues printing with ABS, can anyone speak to the durability of PETG for door speaker brackets? Also, I use an Ender 3 v2 and an Ender 5 Pro.
Hello Sir, really liked your detailed video, but I just need to ask something is that I want to upgrade my truck speakers, can I install the car component speakers in 24v truck… looking forward to hearing from you soon, thank you in advance
I had a 3d printer that I got for like $200 back in 2016 when 3d printers weren't cheap for good ones. I was able to get a decent print out then the next one would always have something weird happen we ended up just throwing that one out and haven't really messed with it since. I was thinking of getting a cr-10 s5 so I can print up to 500mm but I only really help my friends and family with car audio so I don't know if I would have a large enough use case to justify it.
I would love to see how create the piece in the 3D software.
Yup they’re pretty cool, i only knew about these when i built a voron printer and after that i was hooked and ordered a few hundred packs for my day to day projects were as before i would just tap a thread on the printed part itself and it was skiddesh, sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn’t but i wondered how strong the part truly was. Update: not that strong and if you insert metric screws a few times because its revision after revision the og part you’re trying to screw into gets wobbly and eventually fails. Can’t recommend inserts enough, it basically makes a 3d part hold just has strong as a injection molded
This is very useful.. the 3d printing for things like this. Question though.. is the 3d print going to alter the sound in any way.. e.g. vibrations from sound being affected by the material of the 3d print vs say.. wood.. or fiberglass? If so.. would using rubber washers between speaker and mount aid in that in any way? As well.. what material to handle potentially loud audio? I would think you'd want ABS or CF material for its stronger properties? Or is PETG or even PLA enough?
I have an ender 5 pro which I purchased in 2021
I used an ender 3 since 2018
The extractor is used mostly to recycle the inserts, not to replace a broken insert with a new one.
If you want to replace an insert you should add a bit of plastic with 3d pen before inserting a new insert and also lower your expectations.
thanks for the video. Which kind of filament did you use? Is it ASA?
I'm intrigued with the 3D printers. But it really isn't worth the price, personally, to get one for the little I'd use it. I have thought of building a mock up of a pod and finding a local company 3D print them for me. But even that seems to be cost prohibitive. But if there are enough others that it will be worthwhile for you to produce some videos, I'll be watching!!!
I use these when printing pew pews 😀
Great video.
Presumably removing the inserts:
1. Allows you to reuse the insert.
2. Allows you to recycle the plastic without contaminating.
If I'm removing inserts it is likely that I'll be binning the plastic.
I would love to see more 3d printed content. I have a prusa 3d printer and live it. Are you going g to sell 3d speaker adapter files?