I'm not a machinist, I'm a maintenance technician for a production plant. We have some good machine tools and I do some machine work. I appreciate the clarity of your videos, especially that you explain why you're doing it that way.
Have to say... I like your outlook on things Dale. Not everything has to be "perfect" to do the job at hand. Not saying it's ok to be sloppy but why waste time un-necessarily when it's not needed. That being said we all want our work to be neat and presentable so we strive to strike a balance, a balance between "perfection and practicality". Enjoy your vids
Most excellent Dale, thanks...! Years ago I made a spindle square using a 16" rod to hold a single indicator (thinking a longer sweep was better). Flex in the rod was a problem. I like your design better because of stiffness. Cheers, Daniel
Hi Dale - I see you subscribed to my own humble little channel and its oddities! Thank you. Glad to have found you as altho a very ancient old fella, I keep learning and always looking for more useful projects etc. I must try and find time to catch up and go back thru some of your earlier videos. :)
Hello sir, I'm thinking about making me one of these! If my mill is slightly out of tram... when I make this part and 1/2'' diameter arm is not perfectly square with the aluminum block... will this still work after being calibrated? I'm trying to wrap my head around it... But I think it will still work?
I would like to thank you very much for this project. I just finished building one and it works great. I've not tricked it out yet, that will be for another day. Thanks again Charlie D.
This is a great series of videos. I'm going to build this when I get the chance. Thanks for posting. At minute 6 you mentioned the differing plunge rates of the indicators due to the different distances from the nod pin and a thought occurred to me to add on top of the aluminium body near the shank a small button level as a quick visual in addition to a solid square to get you in the ball park. You could probably put it on either side of the shank lightly pressed in a spot-face. Maybe add two just to make the gauge look symmetrical. Thoughts?
Dale Am I missing something, or is the fact you adjusted the 'nod' off the vise possibily causing errors, How do you know the vise surface you indicated against is actually parallel to the table surface??? I was taught that you ALWAYS tram the head to the table surface. John
@John Crea He mentioned in the first video he preferred to tram/square to the vise, rather than the table, since wear in the table could cause inconsistencies. I got that the 'hidden message was his Bridgeport probably has some wear. LOL
I finally "finished" my spindle square last night. I went cheap for my first build, so I ended up with a matching pair of 0.01mm dial indicators.... no biggie.. Anyway, I had trammed my head original using a single indicator method, and that indicator was a 0.001" (inch) type. Well I put the spindle square in my machine and calibrated it, and checked the tram, i was off by 0.02... and I kept chasing that thing around.. It dawned on me today, when I came back to re-evaluate what was going on, that the 0.02 error was actually in mm, NOT Inch! so my error was only 0.0007" (~) close enough, where I don't have to worry now! I had forgotten that I had used mm indicators, and it didn't even occur to me to the check the dial marking (d'oh!), till I wanted to confirm the indicators were functioning properly, so I slid a 0.002" feeler gage under probe and it went in excess of .05(n) or so.. and I said 'that ain't right and investigated making the discovery) < apply that to lessons learned> I also used a slightly different calibration technique that I saw elsewhere on RUclips (sorry to stray) ;) Like you, Pick a spot, but put a small block between the table and dial indicator, raise the knee to zero it out, then rotate the bar, and adjust the other indicator to match zero. Rotate back to confirm. Anyway, thanks for the inspiration and video. You need to reboot this series (DIY stuff). cheers
Weren't you supposed to zero the gauge closest to you, rotate the tool 180 degrees to the mark on the vice, then zero the gauge closest to you (this is the one that was furthest from you prior to the 180 degree rotate). Or did I miss something?
Don't you just hate when you spend all that time making a great video, and only after its uploaded do you notice you spelled 'spindle" incorrectly in the opening sequence?? As a fellow youtube content provider, let me just say, " been there, done that!". but seriously, love the channel, and jealous of your subsciber count!
I liked the build, but sorry I found this one rambling and unclear. Why did you only check nod? One way was wrong, the other was right but you did not explain why. If you are doing basics, as I think you are, then you have to avoid slang and jargon.
I'm not a machinist, I'm a maintenance technician for a production plant. We have some good machine tools and I do some machine work. I appreciate the clarity of your videos, especially that you explain why you're doing it that way.
This popped back up in the feed. Good to revisit it. One thing I like about you Dale is your sense of style.
Have to say... I like your outlook on things Dale. Not everything has to be "perfect" to do the job at hand. Not saying it's ok to be sloppy but why waste time un-necessarily when it's not needed. That being said we all want our work to be neat and presentable so we strive to strike a balance, a balance between "perfection and practicality". Enjoy your vids
thanks for your comment
Most excellent Dale, thanks...! Years ago I made a spindle square using a 16" rod to hold a single indicator (thinking a longer sweep was better). Flex in the rod was a problem. I like your design better because of stiffness. Cheers, Daniel
Extremely useful tool, not only for setting your mill head straight, but using it with a sine bar to set accurate mill head angles.
Love the vids. I've been a machinist for over 25 years and still learn every time I watch your channel.
And....put a handle on that file!
Thanks for the comment. I do have handles on some of my files. :-)
Hi Dale,
Great tutorial and follow up to part 1, looking forward to part 3!
Regards,
Ray
Should be called; "Get your head on straight".
Very educating watching you work. I like your style- it teaches well. Thanks.
newstart49 Great name.
Dd
Hi Dale - I see you subscribed to my own humble little channel and its oddities! Thank you. Glad to have found you as altho a very ancient old fella, I keep learning and always looking for more useful projects etc. I must try and find time to catch up and go back thru some of your earlier videos. :)
ChrisB257 Thank you have a great channel
Dd
Nice Dale. This has been on my to-make list for years. These videos are little kick in the rear to go make one ;)
Hello sir, I'm thinking about making me one of these! If my mill is slightly out of tram... when I make this part and 1/2'' diameter arm is not perfectly square with the aluminum block... will this still work after being calibrated? I'm trying to wrap my head around it... But I think it will still work?
Great vid Dale. I learned so much, your explanation was excellent.
Steve S Thank you Steve.
***** Thanks
I would like to thank you very much for this project. I just finished building one and it works great. I've not tricked it out yet, that will be for another day. Thanks again Charlie D.
+Charlie Didio I glad you liked it .
This is a great series of videos. I'm going to build this when I get the chance. Thanks for posting. At minute 6 you mentioned the differing plunge rates of the indicators due to the different distances from the nod pin and a thought occurred to me to add on top of the aluminium body near the shank a small button level as a quick visual in addition to a solid square to get you in the ball park. You could probably put it on either side of the shank lightly pressed in a spot-face. Maybe add two just to make the gauge look symmetrical. Thoughts?
Good Video Dale.
This video will be very useful when I try setup that mill again!
Side note- holy bondo!! Wire wheel ate.well for a day or so :)
love your work, keep it up Dale! Be Well
su pyrow Thank you
Once again very excellent just what i needed to know , looking forward to Number 3 ... not C.
Great project. I'll add it to the list! Unless I win yours...
Dale
Am I missing something, or is the fact you adjusted the 'nod' off the vise possibily causing errors, How do you know the vise surface you indicated against is actually parallel to the table surface??? I was taught that you ALWAYS tram the head to the table surface.
John
@John Crea
He mentioned in the first video he preferred to tram/square to the vise, rather than the table, since wear in the table could cause inconsistencies.
I got that the 'hidden message was his Bridgeport probably has some wear. LOL
Assuming you have enough preload on the indicators, why not just set the dial to zero on the second indicator instead of moving it up/down?
Al
cpcoark You can do that, but for me, i like everything to be congruent because it make for less chance for error.
Thanks for the question
Dd
cool video.
Robert Kutz Thanks
I finally "finished" my spindle square last night. I went cheap for my first build, so I ended up with a matching pair of 0.01mm dial indicators.... no biggie..
Anyway, I had trammed my head original using a single indicator method, and that indicator was a 0.001" (inch) type.
Well I put the spindle square in my machine and calibrated it, and checked the tram,
i was off by 0.02... and I kept chasing that thing around.. It dawned on me today, when I came back to re-evaluate what was going on, that the 0.02 error was actually in mm, NOT Inch! so my error was only 0.0007" (~) close enough, where I don't have to worry now! I had forgotten that I had used mm indicators, and it didn't even occur to me to the check the dial marking (d'oh!), till I wanted to confirm the indicators were functioning properly, so I slid a 0.002" feeler gage under probe and it went in excess of .05(n) or so.. and I said 'that ain't right and investigated making the discovery) < apply that to lessons learned>
I also used a slightly different calibration technique that I saw elsewhere on RUclips (sorry to stray) ;)
Like you, Pick a spot, but put a small block between the table and dial indicator, raise the knee to zero it out, then rotate the bar, and adjust the other indicator to match zero. Rotate back to confirm.
Anyway, thanks for the inspiration and video. You need to reboot this series (DIY stuff). cheers
this is soo cool ... I have to figure how to make one for my unimat sb200
question: how do you put it on the mill?, as it's already on when the video starts.
Put the shaft into a collet in the mill spindle to attach
John
Awesome
Weren't you supposed to zero the gauge closest to you, rotate the tool 180 degrees to the mark on the vice, then zero the gauge closest to you (this is the one that was furthest from you prior to the 180 degree rotate). Or did I miss something?
How much do you allow for an interference fit?
John Creasey
Make the shaft .001 larger then the hole.
Thanks for the Question
Dd
Thanks Dale! Does your mill have a name? It should, she's a beautiful old girl.
yea
Don't you just hate when you spend all that time making a great video, and only after its uploaded do you notice you spelled 'spindle" incorrectly in the opening sequence?? As a fellow youtube content provider, let me just say, " been there, done that!". but seriously, love the channel, and jealous of your subsciber count!
HI Steve, My speling msitakes are my trademrak. LOL
Metal Tips and Tricks Lol. As a home machinist novice, I'm really enjoying your videos. Regards.
At ruclips.net/video/3T-sTfy383k/видео.html
You zeroed which gauge?... The inner one, the outer one or both to the same value?
I liked the build, but sorry I found this one rambling and unclear. Why did you only check nod? One way was wrong, the other was right but you did not explain why. If you are doing basics, as I think you are, then you have to avoid slang and jargon.