The important thing to remember when using wood working tools (Router Bits) on Aluminum is that they have a carbide tip. You'll find that you can use almost all of your wood working tools as long as they are carbide tipped, when working on Aluminum, Saw blades etc. Thanks for taking the time to put this set of video's up. Learned and enjoyed.
That looks a really smart quality tool. I never thought that a router cutter would do that but seemed to cut easily. Thanks for sharing enjoyed watching your series and look forward to seeing how you make the box.
Dale, I love your shooting from the hip in designing on the fly. :) I worked in product development testing (consumer all types, I made the things that broke the products) I had to design fixtures and items to do the work on a lot of one-offs in a tight time line. Most of the time I worked off a verbal concept from Engineer and a napkin sketch for the fixture. I had a great shop but my mill did not even have a DRO. There was a lot of making it work and be able to repeat the test making more than one part was normally not needed. Photos for documentation paper drawings if required for future or shared reference by vendor of product .
Awesome project Dale and very very professional camera work and video editing, top notch!! It was like watching a show on Discovery Channel! Thank you for all your effort, really enjoy your videos. Jason
Dale, Like you, I have been using Router bits for cutting on Aluminum for many years. I was a Carpenter for over 25 years and have dozens of different profiles at my disposal. One thing you did neglect to mention is to be sure to use Carbide tipped bits only. While you can use plain Steel bits for a one off project, they're pretty well dull after using them and will never cut Wood again properly. Love all your videos and look forward to the next one. Tommy
Hey Dale, I was try to think of a cool way to add some "style" to some of the shop projects I've made, based on what you and others have made and kindly shared. I'm sort of partial to the art-deco look as well. I personally think the simple yet tasteful milled grooves you added look great and sets any project apart (and above) from an otherwise plane one. It adds form to function. Is it absolutely necessary? Of course not. But why not go the extra mile and "build something cool" Please keep up with the great projects and videos!
It looks really cool, and I don't think it is stupid at all. If a plain blocky square works for you great, but if you can why not give it a little extra fancy touch?! I'm really looking forward to see what kind of box are you going to make!! Thanks for another great video.
If I remember correctly, I think Tom at Oxtool used a router bit to do the outside of big steel hand wheel for the etching press he is building. As long as you get carbide you could probably get some other cool molding shapers to use as well if you take your time.
ILGopher Just got to take it easy, the angle of attack for wood is pretty acute, for use on steel that makes the carbide subject to loose bits and pieces on the edge, 1/2" shaft is a big plus... I'm doing it sometimes and it works well.... ;-)
Dude, Side Shields. Thought you feed speed was too fast. I can't afford a Starrett, so I will eventually build one of these when I get a mill. Good series.
I have used router bits a lot on aluminum as well without any issues. I've also used carbide tipped circular saw blades to cut aluminum AND steel. The key is to keep the RPMs below 250 for aluminum and 150 for steel and keep the feed rate mind numbingly slow. Just bump the handle for feed and you shouldn't have any problems.
It's a pleasure to watch video made by someone who puts such attention to detail into the camera work and editing. Did the slots end up centered on your lines? (not that it's critical in this case) I ask because whenever I tried to do slots like that with a skinny end mill, the tool bit deflection always seemed to push the slot to one side--not so noticeable if you cut in one straight pass, but pretty bad if you make cuts from opposing directions. This was one place where freshly sharpened old bits came in handy since they cut undersized slots that can be cleaned up to size.
I like it….👍 I’ll definitely be making me one.. And don’t listen to what people say you’ll always have various personal opinions that are opposite of each other who cares just like you said it’s what you want not what everybody else wants..
Hey Dale. nice job on the tram gauge set. I do have a question...how to you go about calibrating the gauges relative to each other in the fixture? since they are adjustable, any variance to each other would create a variance in the overall angle during tram setup. I see in the video it was mounted in the quill and zeroed. but if the quill was off, using it to calibrate wouldn't be accurate. I have a method I use if you are interested or think your viewers would be. again, great job on the videos.
I like your method of trusting the machine to be precise, allowing you to do the same operation in several locations. I'm a big fan of symmetry, so setting up for the full six slots with two setups is appealing. BTW, you might also consider reeding (leaving semi-cylindrical high surfaces) with a router bit designed for that purpose. It's basically a round-over bit with a zero diameter pilot (or nearly so), so it makes nice "reeds" with little or no space between them. Very Deco-ish. (Never forget that the center of such a bit has zero SFM at any speed. You are essentially pushing it through the workpiece like the web of a twist drill, so take it easy.) How did you finally end up for polishing and softening the edges?
Peter W. Meek Thanks for your comments. You have some good ideas Most of the polishing was done on a buffer after it was wet sanded to 800 grit. Its a lot of work. Dd
Hey Dale, really love your channel...Can you tell me why your mill looks so high ? Is it on a platform or something ? Mine does`t seem that high to me but I am 6`2"...
Hi are Valter from Naples Italy Compliments for your work are perfect. Would you please send me the various measures of the aluminum bar and holes? You could tell me the brand of your milling machine and how many power wat thank you Greetings valter
I like the decorative grooves. After milling them, I might have added some color. I would have taped of the holes and slots-not being so concerned about open, flat surfaces. Then I would have sprayed the grooves using an appropriate color. Finally, I would have removed the tape and sanded/ground/polished the color off everywhere it wasn't intended to be. This is, of course, assuming that there is a paint/application method that will result in a finish that is durable enough.
Highly recommend a lubricate.....wd 40..kerosene....diesel fuel...mineral spririts...you don't need to drown it apply with brush good also recommend a single cutting engraving tool much stronger.
Giving a nice decorative touch to a tool makes it even more our own tool and just make us wanting to use it even more.... A little touch of WD-40 is a must with a ball end 1/8" bit running at 3000+ rpm, you have to slow down the feed cause the end doesn't evacuate the chips as well as the sides, it was probably sharp in the first place, also tightening the vise after the " Tap tap " defeats the purpose.... ;-)
nice video, but a missed opportunity to show us how to set up a work stop and how fast to run cutters, (or how to mount them on the mill in the first place!!), so I think that challenge to the "trollers" is a bit unrealistic we CAN'T even build it if you don't give us all the info we need. trolls may be bad, BUT i reckon EXPERTS are worse!!
I like the end product. Give's me inspiration to do the same. You might want to consider using a little WD-40 when cutting with 4 flute end mills. They will clog and break. I think if you would have used it on the 1/8" end mill, it wouldn't have broken. Thanks for sharing.
the use of carbide tipped wood cutting tools on alumunuum is a relatively old process, but given your 1/4" shaft bit, i think that cut was problematic . using 1/4" bits i wouldn't take that heavy a cut in soft wood. i too saw the tom lipton use of wood router bits on steel, and was too, say the least ,amazed. but it seemed to work quite well. was disappointed to see you failing to use proper eye protection. bad example for beginners, or anyone for that matter.
The important thing to remember when using wood working tools (Router Bits) on Aluminum is that they have a carbide tip. You'll find that you can use almost all of your wood working tools as long as they are carbide tipped, when working on Aluminum, Saw blades etc.
Thanks for taking the time to put this set of video's up. Learned and enjoyed.
That looks a really smart quality tool. I never thought that a router cutter would do that but seemed to cut easily. Thanks for sharing enjoyed watching your series and look forward to seeing how you make the box.
Nice Work Dale! your video editing work is very professional! pleasure to watch!
su pyrow Thanks
Dale, I love your shooting from the hip in designing on the fly. :) I worked in product development testing (consumer all types, I made the things that broke the products) I had to design fixtures and items to do the work on a lot of one-offs in a tight time line. Most of the time I worked off a verbal concept from Engineer and a napkin sketch for the fixture. I had a great shop but my mill did not even have a DRO. There was a lot of making it work and be able to repeat the test making more than one part was normally not needed. Photos for documentation paper drawings if required for future or shared reference by vendor of product .
Nice tool ,well worth taking the time to make . Good job Dale !!
Awesome project Dale and very very professional camera work and video editing, top notch!! It was like watching a show on Discovery Channel!
Thank you for all your effort, really enjoy your videos.
Jason
jjs4x Thanks
Dd
Dale,
Like you, I have been using Router bits for cutting on Aluminum for many years.
I was a Carpenter for over 25 years and have dozens of different profiles at my disposal. One thing you did neglect to mention is to be sure to use Carbide tipped bits only. While you can use plain Steel bits for a one off project, they're pretty well dull after using them and will never cut Wood again properly.
Love all your videos and look forward to the next one.
Tommy
Best Racing Tips Win At The Dragstrip Thanks for you imput.
Dd
very nice work, enjoy your explanations and camera work.
Rick L thanks
thanks for the great detailing looks super cool. and liked the trick about the router bits they should even work on a unimat milling
Hey Dale, I was try to think of a cool way to add some "style" to some of the shop projects I've made, based on what you and others have made and kindly shared. I'm sort of partial to the art-deco look as well. I personally think the simple yet tasteful milled grooves you added look great and sets any project apart (and above) from an otherwise plane one. It adds form to function. Is it absolutely necessary? Of course not. But why not go the extra mile and "build something cool" Please keep up with the great projects and videos!
Enjoyed....funny, just had a feeling that the 1/8" ball mill was going to snap....been there done that!
outsidescrewball I tight it might fail too, but I had to try.
LoL
Dd
It looks really cool, and I don't think it is stupid at all. If a plain blocky square works for you great, but if you can why not give it a little extra fancy touch?! I'm really looking forward to see what kind of box are you going to make!! Thanks for another great video.
2dividedby3 Thanks for your support. The box looks very nice. It a must build too.
Dd
If I remember correctly, I think Tom at Oxtool used a router bit to do the outside of big steel hand wheel for the etching press he is building. As long as you get carbide you could probably get some other cool molding shapers to use as well if you take your time.
ILGopher Just got to take it easy, the angle of attack for wood is pretty acute, for use on steel that makes the carbide subject to loose bits and pieces on the edge, 1/2" shaft is a big plus... I'm doing it sometimes and it works well.... ;-)
Dude, Side Shields. Thought you feed speed was too fast. I can't afford a Starrett, so I will eventually build one of these when I get a mill. Good series.
Glade you liked it. :-)
I have used router bits a lot on aluminum as well without any issues. I've also used carbide tipped circular saw blades to cut aluminum AND steel. The key is to keep the RPMs below 250 for aluminum and 150 for steel and keep the feed rate mind numbingly slow. Just bump the handle for feed and you shouldn't have any problems.
It's a pleasure to watch video made by someone who puts such attention to detail into the camera work and editing.
Did the slots end up centered on your lines? (not that it's critical in this case) I ask because whenever I tried to do slots like that with a skinny end mill, the tool bit deflection always seemed to push the slot to one side--not so noticeable if you cut in one straight pass, but pretty bad if you make cuts from opposing directions. This was one place where freshly sharpened old bits came in handy since they cut undersized slots that can be cleaned up to size.
I like it….👍
I’ll definitely be making me one..
And don’t listen to what people say you’ll always have various personal opinions that are opposite of each other who cares just like you said it’s what you want not what everybody else wants..
Hey Dale. nice job on the tram gauge set. I do have a question...how to you go about calibrating the gauges relative to each other in the fixture? since they are adjustable, any variance to each other would create a variance in the overall angle during tram setup. I see in the video it was mounted in the quill and zeroed. but if the quill was off, using it to calibrate wouldn't be accurate. I have a method I use if you are interested or think your viewers would be. again, great job on the videos.
I like your method of trusting the machine to be precise, allowing you to do the same operation in several locations. I'm a big fan of symmetry, so setting up for the full six slots with two setups is appealing.
BTW, you might also consider reeding (leaving semi-cylindrical high surfaces) with a router bit designed for that purpose. It's basically a round-over bit with a zero diameter pilot (or nearly so), so it makes nice "reeds" with little or no space between them. Very Deco-ish. (Never forget that the center of such a bit has zero SFM at any speed. You are essentially pushing it through the workpiece like the web of a twist drill, so take it easy.)
How did you finally end up for polishing and softening the edges?
Peter W. Meek Thanks for your comments. You have some good ideas Most of the polishing was done on a buffer after it was wet sanded to 800 grit. Its a lot of work.
Dd
Pimped out is right. Looking Good.
Garry Fuller Sr Thanks
Dd
Nice work Dale. You can use my Harley as a model if needed, even though I prefer riding as to bling.
Pops on 2 wheels Too funny. Thanks for your comment.
Dd
Looks good Dale. Maybe some paint in the grooves would make them pop a bit more.
Steve S GREAT Idea!
Dd
Hey Dale, really love your channel...Can you tell me why your mill looks so high ? Is it on a platform or something ? Mine does`t seem that high to me but I am 6`2"...
Hi are Valter from
Naples Italy
Compliments for your work
are perfect.
Would you please send me
the various measures of the aluminum bar and holes?
You could tell me the brand of your milling machine
and how many power wat
thank
you
Greetings valter
Looks good Dale.
Why did you not use a splash of
"Dub-ya D"? It might have saved that 1/8" bit..
Came out looking great. Nice job!
Razor Works I ran out of "Dub-ya D, but the bit was shot I just glade it broke on the first gove.
Dd
I like the decorative grooves. After milling them, I might have added some color. I would have taped of the holes and slots-not being so concerned about open, flat surfaces. Then I would have sprayed the grooves using an appropriate color. Finally, I would have removed the tape and sanded/ground/polished the color off everywhere it wasn't intended to be. This is, of course, assuming that there is a paint/application method that will result in a finish that is durable enough.
Highly recommend a lubricate.....wd 40..kerosene....diesel fuel...mineral spririts...you don't need to drown it apply with brush good also recommend a single cutting engraving tool much stronger.
Giving a nice decorative touch to a tool makes it even more our own tool and just make us wanting to use it even more....
A little touch of WD-40 is a must with a ball end 1/8" bit running at 3000+ rpm, you have to slow down the feed cause the end doesn't evacuate the chips as well as the sides, it was probably sharp in the first place, also tightening the vise after the " Tap tap " defeats the purpose.... ;-)
pierre beaudry Thanks
Dd
You can make a spindle square , but you turn you mill on with a vise grip.
Mike Margeson You were not suppose to notice that. I lost the lever for the switch in the move, but I know it is some where.LOL
Dd
Mike Margeson - As long as it's a TRUE ViceGrip, no issues.
cool, I'd take your old Landy over any Harley with or without any polished aluminium! Thanks for the vids.
Quill Lock. Make sure you tell your students to use a center cutting End Mill :)
this is cool man
nice video, but a missed opportunity to show us how to set up a work stop and how fast to run cutters, (or how to mount them on the mill in the first place!!), so I think that challenge to the "trollers" is a bit unrealistic we CAN'T even build it if you don't give us all the info we need. trolls may be bad, BUT i reckon EXPERTS are worse!!
Very good serise
Jim Witten Thanks
Dd
Wait a minute you said it was going to be part A partB part C
Now its part 3 ?????
I like the end product. Give's me inspiration to do the same. You might want to consider using a little WD-40 when cutting with 4 flute end mills. They will clog and break. I think if you would have used it on the 1/8" end mill, it wouldn't have broken.
Thanks for sharing.
Herb Blair I agree about the Wd 40, But i have just ran out.
LOL
Dd
the use of carbide tipped wood cutting tools on alumunuum is a relatively old process, but given your 1/4" shaft bit, i think that cut was problematic . using 1/4" bits i wouldn't take that heavy a cut in soft wood.
i too saw the tom lipton use of wood router bits on steel, and was too, say the least ,amazed. but it seemed to work quite well.
was disappointed to see you failing to use proper eye protection. bad example for beginners, or anyone for that matter.
to lengthily