VW A4: AFP VR6 Thermostat Housing / Coolant Flange Removal (Part 1)
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2013
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Part 2:
• VW A4: AFP VR6 Thermos...
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This is a much better / newer video:
ruclips.net/video/OY2jMQpM3Us/видео.html
Great video, thanks! I took it to a local shop and he gave me a quote of $750. I laughed and took it back home. Will do it myself with the aid of your video.
Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment! Let me know how things go, or post more comments if you have any questions.
9:25 Your play-by-play narration is definitely helpful. Thank you for explaining what you're doing during maintenance. This is helpful for a person like me who has never done this type of maintenance and is planning on doing it for the first time.
Thank you for watching... let me know how it goes / went.
Thomas, do you know if this job is different in some significant and notable way on a 2004 VW MKIV 24 valve GTI VR6 (engine code BDF)?
I can't remember the last one I did... I'm tempted to say easier because of different oil filter housing / oil cooler setup. Remove what you have to remove to remove what you want to remove. =)
Watched quite a few of your videos. They seriously saved my butt and my mk4 vr6. Much appreciate your patience and skill. Damn vw's can be such a pain when you have zero clue about them
Nice to hear that my videos have been of help to you... thank you for watching!
Thomas once again the savior of the broken beaten and the damnd lol driving home i got the "idiot" light saying stop low coolant so pulled over it still maintain pressure but was leaking every where. took me 3 hours to get home (normally an hour drive) when i got home ripped the front of the car apart to get access and a stupid little niple was broken off. this is where you saved my butt again i found this video made it way easier i wss about to rebuild the whole engine. long story short thank you for making these
Thank you for continuing to watch!
You have some great vids. Have helped me a lot. Just did my thermostat and housing flange crack pipe and all. I went with a aluminum crack pipe. I did this while doing a set of chains and of coarse clutch while in there. Wow what a bunch of cash I have spent on this gti. But I like it.
+Jacob Hendrickson Treat her right and she'll last forever! Thank you for watching!
Great video man. I will be doing this in the next week once I get the ECT.
Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment! It's a straight forward swap... should have no problems. If you do run into anything weird, just send me a PM.
thanks took all the surprises out of it, thanks for the video.
love the channel, keep it up.
Nice to hear, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Thanks so much for ur help!
well got it apart and crack pipe and thermo housing off. now searching for the oil leaks in some of the same areas. then put it all back together.
Just wanted to say thanks! Took a few hours! But I got it done lol.
thank you for watching! It's an old video that isn't that great... nice to know it was of help!
+Thomas EXOVCDS I personally like the overlay. Then I can hear it from someone's perspective and work on the car while I'm listening to what is being done. Thanks for the great videos
Hi, thanks so much for ur fast answer too, my problem is I'm a beginner with all of this kind mechanic things, and I have the same problem, my car is leaking all the coolant, in ur video looks pretty easy, so I dunno what to do, bc my mechanic its charging me 900 dollars for the fix...
Hey Thomas...Guess what I got to do with a VR6? Turns out the daughter was driving the car and this coolant pipe with its nipple snapped right off. This hose goes down to the oil cooler, (well, at least I think so). When I got under the car, I didn't have a clue where it was leaking except it was pouring out from the left side of the engine. Anyway, watching over this video and the next one, I would have never thought that stuff would have come out of there without pulling the front of the car. Anyway, too late, I've pulled it out. Afterwards, I was scratching my head of what I had to pull to get that thing out of there. Your two videos were a life saver of what needs to be done. It looks like I've got a little oil leak which seems to be coming from the oil cooler. While I'm there, I'm going to pull that and replace it's two O-rings along with the figure-8 O-ring on the oil canister. I don't know about the condition of the thermostat housing, but that joker is going to get replaced too along with the thermostat. Two questions Thomas: It appears that this coolant pipe slides into the housing of the water pump and the other end goes into the thermostat housing and that's it. Nothing to secure each end except just sliding each end of the pipe into its housing. Also, I assume this coolant pipe slides out from the end where you took the thermostat housing out as I didn't see you pull it out or going back in from the beginning. Thanks Thomas and if I run into a bind, I'll give you a holler! Wish me luck!!!
+stuzman52 I've been meaning to redo these videos, but have not gotten this repair in a while so I could record it again. Pulling the front will give you more room & visibility, so that's a plus... your thinking was correct. Yes, the pipe is just squished between the two parts. At the pump side, there is a ridge, it can only go in so far and once the flange is in place, it can't come back out. The pipe can get stuff fairly good at both ends, so a lot of pulling might be required. Yes, replace everything while you are in there! Have fun!
+Thomas EXOVCDS Thanks Thomas, I appreciate it. I'll start back on it again tomorrow and have fun as you say. And want to wish you and your family a Merry Christmas and a SUPER GREAT New Year!
+stuzman52 Thank you Terry! All the best to you & yours as well!
Wassup Thomas...I like the vids grate quality!
I have a question. My heat doesn't work what do u consider that might be?
+Hkoodsta Blue Year? Model? Engine size?
ok i. will keep u posted hope u can help incase i interfere a problem
thanks im doing it my self to a jetta 02 thanks video shows how easy this is.. and i dnt get ripped off out there
Not quite that easy... but take your time and all should go well.
Keep an eye on the temperature gauge to make sure that the thermostat opens & that the cooling fans come on.
Ok I will do my best
U know how much is the cost for this kind of labor
Is it necessary to remove the ignition coil? The other DIY I looked at they did not remove the coil, and they also didn't remove the battery so IDK.
The more room you have to work in, the easier the job will be.
Hey bro, I got a 95 Passat GLX with VR6
i have a thermostat housing kit and a thermostat on order now because i have a leak from my housing kit. is there anything else you recommend i should replace or look for while im in that area? also my heat ALSO doesnt work like a previous commenter said but never got back to you on make and model… any idea why that may be?
also my brake fluid reservoir above master cylinder empties every few months because of a leak somewhere. it doesnt seem to be from the cylinder seals. i noticed my front rims get a lot dirtier a lot quicker than my rear ones, should i check those calipers first? or is that only because its a FWD car?
Climatronic (electrical control heater panel) or manual control (dial knobs)?
The "pipe" from the water pump to the thermostat housing should also be replaced (if it is not part of the kit). If the engine is not overheating, then the water pump is probably OK. Lack of heat inside the car is usually a blocked heater core. Remove the heater core hoses and flush the core in both directions with a garden hose... until only clean fluid comes out. If the "temperature blend door" is stuck in the cold position, that could be another reason why you have no heat. You will have to look under the dash to see if the blend door(s) is moving correctly.
I have a jetta that was sitting for 2 years now it over heats ..u think termo stat is stuck???
Antonio Villas What year jetta, what engine? Does the radiator hose that goes to the thermostat get warm / hot? Does the heater in the car blow hot air when turned to the hot setting?
Thanks I got them.. I def don't under stand it.. But at least I think I know its the fans I'll have someone with the skill to fix it ...that's bro IMA sub to ur channel
Just read what the diagrams show... fuses at the top of the page and the components towards the bottom. Find what you are looking for (horn, fans etc) and then follow the wires that are attached to them. The wires are color coded, so that when you look at the car, you can find & follow them.
Hey Thomas, what would you quote in parts and labor for a job like this? Thanks!
+Alec Chapman My boss does the estimates... labor rate & parts can vary from shop to shop. Best to get quotes from shops in your area. Cheaper isn't always better... I know you probably just want a ball park figure, but there's usually always a bunch of stuff that is "unexpected" or "while we are in there, it would make sense to also replace...". There are a lot of DIY write-ups that you can follow, if cost is of a concern. Search forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?5001-VW-Model-Specific-Forums to find them.
What tool did you use to remove the spark plug wires?
This is a much better / newer video:
ruclips.net/video/OY2jMQpM3Us/видео.html
You can use anything that "hooks into" the spark plug wire loop / handle.
Is this the 12v or 24v vr6, and would this DIY apply to both?
12V, the 24 is of a similar layout.
did the bad thermostat pop the reservior?
It's an old video... I haven't watched it.
A bad / stuck closed thermostat can pop a lot of different cooling system components (due to overheating). Although, the reservoir cap should release excess pressure when pressure get too high.
Is this the same procedure for a MK4 12v VR6?
This video IS for the mk4... as indicated by the title: VW A4 (A4 = mk4)
Esconde va colocado el termostato en q parte de el motor
Puedes ver el termostato de metal en la marca de 12 segundos del video.
So I'm getting my thermostat housing replaced, as long as the sensors. Not replacing the crack pipes. I'm getting charged 5 hours of labor?! Is this accurate??! I supplied all parts and no other parts are needed. How do they determine work time?! Please help me!!!
stevieemmerson Mitchell labor guide lists "average times" for specific jobs... for Thermostat Housing they list 2.5hrs, flushing is listed at 0.7hrs, bleeding is listed at 0.6hrs. Depending on what all they do, yes, could get close to 5 hours... but shouldn't take that long.
Its a 2000 jetta vr6 2.8 standard the hose get pretty fukkin hott but it does blow hit air when I turn on the heater...I saw another comment someone left and u said if it don't get hot when u drive it in highway its OK(thermostat).well I drove it 30 miles on the interstate going about 100 miles and it didn't overheat , but yesturday I had it on idleling outside my house and it overheated..I think its the fans but I can't find the fuse ...what do u think??? P.s thanks for replying
Antonio Villas I'll look for a wiring diagram and will send you a link is a little bit.
Antonio Villas CHeck the 3 green fuses on top of the battery. One of them might be blown or the contacts are burnt (remove the fuses to check the contacts).
Hi thomas! I have an 03 24v vr6 jetta. It runs fine, gets up to temp, blows heat and ac great and pulls good. Hasnt overheated in 20+ minute of driving but ONLY once i stop driving and shut it off it dumps coolant and i have to refill the reservoir. I havent been able to really see where it comes from nor time and space to leave it torn apart for long. Im almost positive the previous owner deleted the aux water pump aswell but i daily drove it for quite some time with no major issues. Also replaced the thermostat housing when i first got it but not the crack pipe but i dont think its coming from there. It almost sounds like its kinda bubbling on the exhaust side but i guess that could be the point of the leak bubbling out into the colder air. Im guessing itd be best to try to get another pump as it was there for a reason from factory. Are there any other hoses or such that i should check on the back side? Any info is greatly appreciated
Can it actually idle for 20 minutes without any issues? If there's a leak, that needs to be fixed first. If the reservoir cap is venting pressure, try a new cap and check for excessive pressure as well (head gasket). The missing electric coolant pump might not be the reason for the leak... but it would help keep temperature under control after the engine is shut off (by circulating coolant through the system).
Thomas EXOVCDS the last time i had it running it idled in probably 75 degree weather if not warmer for probably atleast that and then i also had to pump the tires and drove it a few miles around and back home and then it puked. Ive tried to look around for the leak but its been really hard to tell. I thought maybe headgasket but it runs completely fine doesnt seem to lose any compression and it doesnt seem to be burning any in the exhaust. Everything seems normal except the leak but it only does it when its shut off which made me think something to do with the pump. The reservoir doesnt seem to leak or anything around it either. I guess ill have to try to pay more attention to where it dumps from next time.
@@tylerstickle49 the only place where it "should" leak / vent, is from the reservoir... anywhere else is problem.once that's solved, you can chase the underlying issue (if there is one).
Thomas EXOVCDS any idea why it would only leak after it turns off?
@@tylerstickle49 pressure builds because the coolant is not circulating... but like I said, it shouldn't leak even when the coolant isn't circulating. That's why you first need to find where the leak is and fix it, so that you can do further testing.
I have a 2002 jetta wagon vr6. it dumps all its coolest in seconds if filled and started. is there a common failure point on cooling system of these cars?
+Justin Bigelow Blown coolant flange of hose... find the leak and you will know where the problem is. I would do the same (visual inspection)... I'm not trying to be a smarta%&. Once the leak is fixed, make sure that the thermostat opens and that the cooling fans come on.
No no. Great advice. Have not had the time to dig in. Looking for common failure points. Thanks for the reply. About to open it up I'll fill u in. Know anything about "lock in service position "?
+Justin Bigelow That should have said: coolant flange OR hose. Watch this video for service position: ruclips.net/video/m2IvmVkszWU/видео.html
What's the story w/ metal upgrades for crack pipe and housing read some forums where they mention that they leak???
I haven't heard of metal ones leaking... then again I don't have free time to read forums. Even if they leak, I'm sure they last longer than the plastic ones. Maybe it's the o-rings that come with the metal flanges? A bit of RTV Silicone might help prevent leaks.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for quick reply
OK, so what's the best way to get the distributer off without an air ratchet? I've got two loose with a screw driver but the other 2 won't budge.
Robbie Daniel An air ratchet is only used for speed (no hand movement required)... when you say distributor, you mean the coil pack?
Yes, coil pack. Sorry
Robbie Daniel As you know, they are small diameter bolts... worst case, if you apply too much force, they will break. I believe you can work around the coil pack, but removing it will give better access & visibility of the coolant flange.
I didn't get any thing ..brake lights and fans still don't work i checked the fuses and they are good
Antonio Villas If you have regular rotary heater dials, use the second page of the Cooling fans pdf: fkh161.ca/VW/AFP/Fans.pdf Exterior Lights: fkh161.ca/VW/AFP/ExLights001.pdf
doin fine, explain away. nice video
I cannot get the pcv valve off the air intake tube? How do you do it? Thanks
VR6 Engine? That's just a pcv heater... should be part of / sold with the intake tube. Send me a picture or post a video of what you are trying to do.
oh ok i thought that was the pvc valve because i took my throttle body off and i noticed oil in the intake tube and getting into throttle body and upper intake!
This car is a damn nightmare i got ripped off bad. i only paid 1000 and it has nice 17 inch rims with brand new tires and new oil pan and new coilpack but it is running like crap and i think i might have a head gasket issue now! GRRRRRR
sorry to bug ya again my temp gauge dont move and i think it is thermostat and ur video helped but what is the sensor next to the temp sensor there are 2 of them on the plastic housing! First i have to replace my 409 relay cause i am getting short to ground issues and the car starts fine but i was told that 409 relay also controls other stuff from the ecm
mikeyd19841 A3 or A4 (mk3 or mk4)? A3 has a blue sensor for the ECM, a yellow sensor for dash and a brown sensor for A/C cutout. A4 has a black (now green) for dash & ECM, would have to double check a wiring diagram to see what the other(s) does.
How much would this cost on a 2001 VW passat
As far as I know, that model Passat never had a VR6... the V6 engine is much different. What is the issue with your Passat? Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
***** it had a small leak that I thought was coming from the AC because it would leave a small leak every time after driving it. And finally last night it completely leaked and it all came from the radiator. so today at the shop they said it's the thermostat housing. they haven't told me anything else or given me an estimate yet.
So it's a 30V V6? The thermostat / housing on that engine is behind the timing belt. Labor rate varies across the country and each shop has different mark-ups on parts... so I can't be helpful with a cost estimate, sorry.
2000 vr6 drive hard and in manitoba cold
OK....
OK I need the ones for my brake lights and horn please I can figure this German car out lol. Ivalways had american cars
Antonio Villas Check your youtube messages for links.
got it fixed. turned out it was a broken crack pipe and broken thermo housing.
+Justin Bigelow That was quick... thanks for the update!
those plastic sensor retaining clips always break when I remove them, if they don't, the car eats them, never to be seen again........
The aftermarket are quite skinny / fragile... the VW plastic ones are a bit better. If you can get your hands on the old metal style clips, that's the best way to go (unless the vehicle is in a rust belt area).
Always funny how using factory parts works better, but don't tell bean counters that, they'll have a seizure..........
MrErikw26 The mark-up on aftermarket can help... sure. Little things like these clips though, it's not worth NOT getting the good stuff (I know you know). What I hate more, is returning stuff (after ordering it) when we don't need something. 9 out of 10 times, we need to order it again the next week... keep it in stock!!!
2000 JETTA GLS VRS 2.8
+Hkoodsta Blue Are you getting foam pieces flying out of the air vents?
+Thomas EXOVCDS if I'm not mistaking when I first got the car I seen them laying around I think. But there's no foam stuff coming out now, just cold air.
+Hkoodsta Blue Most likely a blend door issue (have to remove heater box assembly to re-line the door / flaps. The water pumps don't seem to go bad on the vr6 (and you don't have any overheating issues) and the heater cores don't really plug up on these... so that would leave blend door function / integrity. Confirm before removing the dash to get at the heater box... in case I am wrong. :)
+Thomas EXOVCDS Damnnn that's a lot lol. I'm not sure on how to do it can u make a Vid of it kinda
+Hkoodsta Blue You can remove the blower motor "resistor pack" that is under the blower motor (behind the glove box) and then look into the heater box with a flashlight & a mirror, to see if foam has come off of the "blend" door. You might need to use a borescope... I do not know when I will get a chance to record a dash removal.