VW A4: AFP VR6 Thermostat Housing / Coolant Flange Installation (part 2)
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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Part 1:
• VW A4: AFP VR6 Thermos...
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I've learned alot just from watching this both parts of this video! thanx!!!
Thanks for watching... I hope to get more VR6 stuff this year!
funny story the retainer clip was there but the plug was missing when i got home today so you could just imagine all of the coolant everywhere
Might have degraded over time... how old was the coolant?
Do you have a video on replacing the coolant tube and flange on a Eurovan V6 2003
No, sorry... it's pretty much the same as this video, but easier access on the Eurovan... you have to work from under the vehicle.
What brand of rubber grease do you used? I never used one before. I would like to have one .
We used to use PBR rubber grease (blue in color)... now I use clear silicone grease / lube compound (Wurth brand).
Thomas EXOVCDS are they available in any auto part store
@@eurovan03 Wurth brand is not available in stores. Auto parts stores should have Silicone Grease... I don't know what brands are available in your area. This is good for rubber / o-rings:
www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-56204-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B07C3CZ9CL
You think it's possible get the coolant pipe out without removing the oil filter housing? I'd like to avoid having to take that off.
Yes... possible, but more room / visibility with it removed.
@@EXOVCDS Did you have to drain the oil before you removed that?
I need to figure out what P-1137 on the obd 2 reader. Fuel bank 1 system running to lean. I'm scared to know if its a common problem and I'm not up for replacing injectors on a golf gti vr6 12 v. I have a afp motor 2.8l. I really appreciate your videos they help a lot.
Joey Tamayo I need to know fuel trim values so that I can suggest vacuum leak or other. With Vag-Com, long term fuel trims can be found in block 32. The first value is fuel trim at idle and the second value is at part throttle. A positive number in the first field indicates a vacuum leak. A positive in the second field indicates an air leak in front of the throttle plate, a bad maf or a bad fuel pump. Vacuum leaks can be easily found using a smoke machine.
Genius!!! Damn I need a vag com. Rrrrr. Your alot of help man. Dealership and your genius mentality is awesome. I'll get on it to see the fuel trim. I should of bought that program from tge beggining. I wish your shop was near me I'd give you a hand shake for the help. Awesome customer service. Let me do more homework And I'll let you know
And ill try the smoke machine method to search for vaccum leaks. I don't think theres any mechanic that has gave me this advice. You help is much appreciated. Been a vw owner for 4 years and I've learned a lot from working on my vr6.
Joey Tamayo Ok, I'll wait for an update.
Joey Tamayo Forgot to mention that p1137 is "additive"... which means that it is a closed throttle condition. So you are dealing with a vacuum leak in all likelihood. The fuel trim percentages will give you an idea how big of a leak though.
hei Thomas. what chevks would you perform for my friend's car if it came to you. he has a 2002 jetta vr6 and said his voolant light came on today and coolant level was very low. and whats more worrying is the car at the same time today started butning fuel twice as fast running his full reservoir down in about 250kms
+Rumen Hristov There are several common places where coolant leaks develop. Thermostat flange, the crack pipe that connects to it, water pump, radiator, heater core fittings where the hoses attach, the throttle body hoses... find the leak, repair the leak and then check for an underlying reason for the leak (overheating). The leak could have just been due to old age / worn parts, but you need to be sure that there are no other issues. Not sure about the fuel issue... check temperature sensor, thermostat, fuel leaks etc.
Pretty thank you Thom! You rule - as usual!
new coolant i had just replaced the cooling flange and the crack pipe used old sensor and plug
+Alex Montano Weird... no pieces of the plug remained? Might not have been clipped in correctly then.
what if i want to just replace the thermostat itself is there a easier method than doing everything you did?
+graffixglass Due to its location... the thermostat cover bolts can not be accessed, so removing the flange assembly is the best way / only way that I am aware of to replacing the thermostat. If you have a standard transmission, you can remove the transmission... then you have access to the cover bolt. :-)
is there a reason why the plug for the emty hole on the cooling flange would come off
If it is held in place with a retaining clip... it should not come out.
How much g12 coolant does the car take and also do I gotta mix with water 50/50?
That depends on how much came out (or was missing)... the manual lists 4.5L G12 and 4.5L water for a 50/50 mix for an A4/mk4 application. You can run straight water (not recommended) but don't run straight G12.
If you need service manuals, you can download them here:
erwin.vw.com/
$35 for 24hr access, download as much as you want.
My thermostat housing cracked so I changed it and I lost a lot coolant so am trying to flush everything out with distilled water and go half on G13 coolant
The flushing is easy... getting 1/2 the water out is not. Drain as much water as you can when done, then add the 4.5l G13... top-off with water if the level still drops.
Drive for a couple of days to let the 2 liquids mix, then test / check the mixture strength with a tester to make sure that it meets your temperature needs for your local winter season.
I have a 98 gti vr6 that keeps getting to around 215 then it will drop to 190 it does this periodically. I've replaced the thermostat and the water pump and tried to purge the lines. My fans kick on too. I've checked the bottle for leaks and I see no cracks and I'm not loosing coolant. Any suggestions?
Jacob Bossa Radiator fan switch... cheap item to try / eliminate first. Below the battery mounted to the side of the radiator. The fan switch is more for city / stop & go driving. If it happens while cruising on the highway... don't think it's a fan switch problem.
***** thanks man, I'll give it a try. It seems to only happen when the A/C is on and I read the fan is supposed to have 3 different speed settings?
+Thomas EXOVCDS you might be spot on for me as my 24v started to over heat after repeated off/on starts and city driving stop an go, but when in motion the needle stays right in the middle, might have had a clue when my a/c stopped working the compressor went an when replaced it only got cold when I was on the expressway an didn't blow cold when city driving. I'll start with the fan switch, subscribed. Also my oil light comes on and off after spirited driving an then city driving, when stuck in traffic or at a slow pace it goes off an beeps and when I accelerate it goes away until I get stuck in traffic, I was thinking the oil pressure sensor, but then I swapped in the 24v to replace the 2.0 so I have a Frankenstein jetta so anything is up in the air. It's a 2000 jetta with an 03 24v VR6 with a 5 speed tranny for a 12v VR6
+magnificent10304 Cool conversion... thanks for subscribing! Remove the connector from the rad fan switch and check that one of those wires has power all the time... Bridge that wire with one of the others to get the fans to activate. One pair of wires will be low speed, you'll need the key on for the other pair to trigger the second speed. The oil light blinking could be due to the heat of the engine, so that might stop once you get the fans to kick in (oil will be thinker when cooler, more oil pressure = no warning light).
If the warning continues, check actual pressure... switch problem or hydraulic. Thicker oil can be a cheap way to fix hydraulic issues.
I can't get the crack pipe to stop leaking on my vr6 after install it is leaking on block side. Pleas help!
Michael Harris Where it enters behind the water pump? Did you clean the area so that the o-ring has a clean surface to sit in?
Michael Harris Did you figure out why it was leaking?