35 year polebarner here. I always install corner braces as part of the girting process. And prior to roofing I fine tune the plumb of gable ends, and dominant sidewall to create a 90 degree with which to start the roof steel from. Wiggle the starter sheet left or right (if needed)to dial in the square. I love your content!
Love your chain storage at 3:49. BTW, when you are off by half a chain link you can make that fine adjustment by moving your chain at the anchor point buy one link. Since the chain is doubled there the one link will equal a half link overall. Hope that makes sense.
25 year pole barner here. Love watching your vids and learning a couple tricks. Mostly like to check out the fancy tools you use. I have to argue with you though about the ratcheting comalongs. They are easy peazy.
When pushing and pulling the building to get one wall plumb wouldn’t it make the other side out of plumb if it was already plumb? Also when you straighten the end fascia won’t that also make the posts out of plumb? Trying to understand it properly. Thanks so much for every video! Your helping me rehab my 36 stall horse ban and other out buildings!
Yes u are exactly right...this is why u just get your building square, walls plumb & braced then u simply string line your trusses or rafter tails from your end rafters with a chalk line, snap it then level down from each chalk mark on each rafter & cut them before your fascia board is even on & u just saved yourself a TON of work... if using trusses u got to make sure your installing them straight to begin with so the peak lines up
Thanks for your demonstration. My question is that how we maintain these adjustments? As in if we pull a truss for a few millimeters, how we can make sure that the adjustment remains just like that. Would metal bracing help? I'd really appreciate if you could please guide me. Cheers
thanks for all the great content I just got done with foundation wall will start on my fist shop build hopeful in a week , hoping you could help me ,I want to install verseda stone on but not sure how its going to fit sense its thicker then the steel
When you set the poles they should be the same distance as the trusses so when checking for plumb so both sides move into plumb if the width at the ground is different from the truss width at the top there is a screw up
Start by only grade boards perfectly square? Then marking Perlins and girts 2’ & 8’ apart nailed down and that’s it? Then do as in this video then ready to screw down roof plywood or sheets steel? Am I missing any steps? I’d pay for these building plans. Next year I’m building my house 36x60x18’walls 2 floors floating radiant floor slab but not sure if I need 3 more sonoposts along the middle for floor beam support or another method to support 2nd floor joists.
I am a bit confused. If you have one corner at 90, and an adjacent corner at 88... Are you aiming to get both at 89 to split the difference? Seems to me that it's either that, or you would have to pop some girts, plumb the post and nail them back in?
If you were off 2 degrees on an 18 ft wall, that would be around 7 inches narrower/wider from top to bottom, unlikely scenario, but you get my point. Even 1/2 degree would be over an inch and a half. Seems to me you would have to adjust the girts to make it square. You aren't stretching them.
What I don't understand is using the chain to pull - is there a corresponding push on the other side of the building? If I did this I would end up with a trapezoid. Starting straight (good foundation) is the basis, but this is art in action.
When you first started checking for plum, if you would have checked the other side of that first post, would’ve the post been out a plum same as the one you found when you side of the wall?
How many chains would you say that you use on a single building at one time? Would you be willing to demonstrate an alternative method in the event someone didn’t have access to chains just yet? Btw thanks for the video, these step by step demonstrations are just what a guy is lookin for.
I think we have 18 chains and 24 binders, and on bigger buildings that usually isn't quite enough. 8 takes care of plumbing and bracing all four corners, 2 for the peaks. That leaves 8 to straighten the eave overhangs and gable overhangs. We almost always have to have a chain on each truss to straighten the eaves, so on a 64' building that's already 7 for intermediate trusses. Sometimes we will use 2x4 bracing on the walls so we can steal a chain back. Also FYI for anyone reading this, Kyle is correct when he says don't use the ratchet binders. I bought all ratchet binders and they aren't threaded long enough, you have to pull the chains as tight as you can by hand and then when you thread it all the way in, you still won't have the chain tight and you've gained such a small amount of building movement that it wasn't helpful. We usually have to use 2 ratchet binders per chain to get any movement at all. I have one snap binder like what he uses and I always find myself using it to take the slack out and then using the ratchets to tighten from there. Then it pulls the chain loose enough that I can take the snap binder off and use it again on the next one. I am going to invest in more snap binders this year. I have seen people use large nylon ratchet straps as an alternative, but keep in mind they will stretch if left in place for long periods of time.
Question for you Kyle Why not just use a pls laser or stabila laser to shoot a beam or dot from one plate to another ? Would take away all of the variations in lumber, and would make both bottom and top plates, perfect. Just wondering.
Stop listening to the haters on comments... 1/16th out you actually need to move a 32nd... like you said we are not building a piano... it's good let's move on to the next step..
I am a bit concerned I may not be able to hire the right GC to insure all is square & plumb in my area. I trust R&R but too many contractors take short cuts.
Can you still do this even when you don’t have over hang on the roof? Also how come when you push or pull a side does the truss not do the same on the other side
I simply don't understand how it's possible to fully constrain that already built structure so much without changing every other dimension when you tension one chain.
To all wearing glasses. Don't trust on seeing a straight line while wearing glasses. Same applies to webcams or go-pros. It requires special camera lenses to get a non distorted image. So double check with a string line.
Wondering if you know how to get 1/2 of a link adjustment... if you are wrapped around a post at the bottom or top, and move the HOOK (not the binder) up or down one link, you've only adjusted the main length by 1/2 link because you're at a 2/1 .... when wrapped around post....AT the post. Does it make sense how I've said it? LOL I know I'm correct, I just don't know if I'm explaining it well 😂
I've designed my building and am waiting till after the next presidential election when the economy gets better before I start building. My property tax has tripled since Biden has been in office. My property tax would even increase that much more if I built another building on my property. Got to wait till Trump gets back in. When that happens, I think Trump will end the private FED, IRS and end the scam of property tax.
35 year polebarner here. I always install corner braces as part of the girting process. And prior to roofing I fine tune the plumb of gable ends, and dominant sidewall to create a 90 degree with which to start the roof steel from. Wiggle the starter sheet left or right (if needed)to dial in the square.
I love your content!
the world needs more people that give a shit about how they make their money! You and Gregg exemplify that ethos.
I'm literally preparing my first truss roof for metal tomorrow, this video couldn't have come at a better time. thank you.
Glad I could help!
I would say five steps, number one is hire competent craftsman.
Keep up the great work.
God bless you both.
Great Video! Love the step-by-step. Thanks for taking the extra time to help demonstrate your craft!
You are so welcome!
Love your chain storage at 3:49. BTW, when you are off by half a chain link you can make that fine adjustment by moving your chain at the anchor point buy one link. Since the chain is doubled there the one link will equal a half link overall. Hope that makes sense.
25 year pole barner here. Love watching your vids and learning a couple tricks. Mostly like to check out the fancy tools you use. I have to argue with you though about the ratcheting comalongs. They are easy peazy.
Just letting y'all kno u have fans watching in Jamaica 🇯🇲
Looking forward to the timelapse of this build! Really enjoyed watching the last one!!
Excellent squaring tutorial. Thanks, Kyle.
Outstanding video. Clear explanations. Great visuals.
When pushing and pulling the building to get one wall plumb wouldn’t it make the other side out of plumb if it was already plumb? Also when you straighten the end fascia won’t that also make the posts out of plumb? Trying to understand it properly. Thanks so much for every video! Your helping me rehab my 36 stall horse ban and other out buildings!
That is why we go in the order we go in and lock it down with double X chains as we need to
Yes u are exactly right...this is why u just get your building square, walls plumb & braced then u simply string line your trusses or rafter tails from your end rafters with a chalk line, snap it then level down from each chalk mark on each rafter & cut them before your fascia board is even on & u just saved yourself a TON of work... if using trusses u got to make sure your installing them straight to begin with so the peak lines up
Great video. What a beautiful day this was.
I really enjoy watching your videos sir. Always a learning experience.
Glad to hear it
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Kyle!
you do a great job teaching
Great job you're killing it
Great video, your show has really helped the building process
Gréât stuff.thx for all your vidéos.good learning.Your a good man Thankyou.
Wow,amazing process!!
Kyle as a flatbeder just give your chain a twist to get a half link. Been doing that for years to just get a extra pull. Just a suggestion.
Good tip
really great tip
Or move a link at the base where your chain wraps around the lower part of the column. Thats also a half link
Thanks RR this was very informative
first class 👍
Nice, thanks for the details
Excellent video. This was very informative.
This is awesome. Thanks for the great vid and detailed explanation.
AWESOME thank you very much
Would love to see the rest of this build. This is the same size I want to make for my future build except wall height at 10 feet.
Stay tuned
Thanks! 😁👍🏼
Nice job Kyle 👍🏼
Thanks for your demonstration. My question is that how we maintain these adjustments? As in if we pull a truss for a few millimeters, how we can make sure that the adjustment remains just like that. Would metal bracing help? I'd really appreciate if you could please guide me.
Cheers
Good stuff guys :)
thanks for all the great content I just got done with foundation wall will start on my fist shop build hopeful in a week , hoping you could help me ,I want to install verseda stone on but not sure how its going to fit sense its thicker then the steel
dig through his video list, they've done a couple on that subject.
maybe a stupid question, but if you pull a corner in plump, does that not effect the opposite corner out of plump?
Love those curvy girls do ya? its actually plumb not plump ha ha
Split the difference
When you set the poles they should be the same distance as the trusses so when checking for plumb so both sides move into plumb if the width at the ground is different from the truss width at the top there is a screw up
We use 2x4 pushboards placed under the truss heels at posts
Start by only grade boards perfectly square? Then marking Perlins and girts 2’ & 8’ apart nailed down and that’s it? Then do as in this video then ready to screw down roof plywood or sheets steel? Am I missing any steps? I’d pay for these building plans. Next year I’m building my house 36x60x18’walls 2 floors floating radiant floor slab but not sure if I need 3 more sonoposts along the middle for floor beam support or another method to support 2nd floor joists.
Very nice
I am a bit confused. If you have one corner at 90, and an adjacent corner at 88... Are you aiming to get both at 89 to split the difference? Seems to me that it's either that, or you would have to pop some girts, plumb the post and nail them back in?
If you were off 2 degrees on an 18 ft wall, that would be around 7 inches narrower/wider from top to bottom, unlikely scenario, but you get my point. Even 1/2 degree would be over an inch and a half. Seems to me you would have to adjust the girts to make it square. You aren't stretching them.
What I don't understand is using the chain to pull - is there a corresponding push on the other side of the building? If I did this I would end up with a trapezoid. Starting straight (good foundation) is the basis, but this is art in action.
When you first started checking for plum, if you would have checked the other side of that first post, would’ve the post been out a plum same as the one you found when you side of the wall?
How many chains would you say that you use on a single building at one time? Would you be willing to demonstrate an alternative method in the event someone didn’t have access to chains just yet? Btw thanks for the video, these step by step demonstrations are just what a guy is lookin for.
I think we have 18 chains and 24 binders, and on bigger buildings that usually isn't quite enough. 8 takes care of plumbing and bracing all four corners, 2 for the peaks. That leaves 8 to straighten the eave overhangs and gable overhangs. We almost always have to have a chain on each truss to straighten the eaves, so on a 64' building that's already 7 for intermediate trusses. Sometimes we will use 2x4 bracing on the walls so we can steal a chain back.
Also FYI for anyone reading this, Kyle is correct when he says don't use the ratchet binders. I bought all ratchet binders and they aren't threaded long enough, you have to pull the chains as tight as you can by hand and then when you thread it all the way in, you still won't have the chain tight and you've gained such a small amount of building movement that it wasn't helpful. We usually have to use 2 ratchet binders per chain to get any movement at all. I have one snap binder like what he uses and I always find myself using it to take the slack out and then using the ratchets to tighten from there. Then it pulls the chain loose enough that I can take the snap binder off and use it again on the next one. I am going to invest in more snap binders this year.
I have seen people use large nylon ratchet straps as an alternative, but keep in mind they will stretch if left in place for long periods of time.
Hell yeah.
I don't know how all the things you make plumb on Step #1 don't get pulled OUT of plumb as you perform the other steps? MAGIC!!!
Chains locked in… that’s why we go in This orders
Question for you Kyle
Why not just use a pls laser or stabila laser to shoot a beam or dot from one plate to another ?
Would take away all of the variations in lumber, and would make both bottom and top plates, perfect.
Just wondering.
Is the next step sheathing everything while the chains are keeping it square and plumb?
⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️volt
Stop listening to the haters on comments... 1/16th out you actually need to move a 32nd... like you said we are not building a piano... it's good let's move on to the next step..
Another option instead of chains is cables and come Alongs.
I am a bit concerned I may not be able to hire the right GC to insure all is square & plumb in my area. I trust R&R but too many contractors take short cuts.
ALL PLUMB Kyle!!
Do you ever pull on anything and then it changes what you have already checked?
Can you still do this even when you don’t have over hang on the roof? Also how come when you push or pull a side does the truss not do the same on the other side
20:47 One of the FEW times I miss a 3rd person…😂
I simply don't understand how it's possible to fully constrain that already built structure so much without changing every other dimension when you tension one chain.
The steel is what ties everything together so it doesn’t move when the wind blows against it
How long has Greg been working for you, did you know him before he started working for you
11 years... i knew of him and his older brother actually worked for me before I was a contractor owning my own business.
@@RRBuildings keep up the good work I like watching your videos, I live in Perth Western Australia
I still remember when Greg’s brother worked with them!!
In framing, what is considered "good".... I mean I have heard people say "as long as it's in the lines and not touching"
What would it take to get you guys to build my home in North Dakota?!?
What shoes are you guys wearing?
To all wearing glasses. Don't trust on seeing a straight line while wearing glasses. Same applies to webcams or go-pros. It requires special camera lenses to get a non distorted image. So double check with a string line.
I soak up whatever info I can because I prefer to work by myself.
5. Don't let your structure drink bud light
that goes without saying...busch lite is okay
Done with all annheuser
Awesome comment - thank you for the laugh!!!
Your straight structure*
Wondering if you know how to get 1/2 of a link adjustment... if you are wrapped around a post at the bottom or top, and move the HOOK (not the binder) up or down one link, you've only adjusted the main length by 1/2 link because you're at a 2/1 .... when wrapped around post....AT the post.
Does it make sense how I've said it? LOL
I know I'm correct, I just don't know if I'm explaining it well 😂
You are correct
How times did your collection of chains tangle and knot up before you came up with the jug storage method? 🤣
How did I get In contact you about a job I would like to hire you for?
👍🏻
Intro your cameraman!
He says the chains were a big expenditure while standing in front of the mega-deck 😂
I've designed my building and am waiting till after the next presidential election when the economy gets better before I start building. My property tax has tripled since Biden has been in office. My property tax would even increase that much more if I built another building on my property. Got to wait till Trump gets back in. When that happens, I think Trump will end the private FED, IRS and end the scam of property tax.
If 180 is perfectly straight, Greg’s exactly 90 🧐
Kyle’s nice and all…but I’m a big GREG fan!!! He’s smoking hot 🔥🔥😝😝
Pretty sure my height changes more than 1/16" from when I got to bed to when I wake up.
Plumbing walls doesn't ensure the building is square.
Did you measure the trusses before they went up? If the trusses aren't accurate to begin with, then fixing one side will throw the other side out.
A chain link
Such problems perfection is horrible. I get that all the time.
Use a level
This is so much easier in Minecraft… 💁♂️
that tools costs 400$ Canadian
Don't chase that 16th...its not worth the jail time
why not take on a young person as an apprentice
You didn't show the end results so I am going to reserve a thumbs up or thumbs down
👍🏻