I uses hockey stick tape to protect my wires on the arms, its really abrasion resistant and light weight, plus comes in bright colors, a roll last me a long time, i use 2 layers and put a drop of super glue at the end to prevent it from unraveling, ive never chopped up my wires since...
Bro i just did the same thing. Not super glue yet but mine was advertised for baseball bats, and has "ribs" if you will. It probably even dampens some motor vibration up the arms but i wont really know until i put fresh props back on.
@@TavoFourSeven yeah it definitely can help with vibration dampening too, but i usually run a pretty stout frame so vibration hasn't been too much of an issue
I don't run an action cam, but I do like the idea of a battery protecting TPU skeleton bolted down in the front and extending over the battery... Time to bust out CAD.
There's diamond braid rope that i take the core out of and slide over my motor wires then use a zip-tie to secure them to the arm. I've never had one fail me and have been doing it that way for over 2 years. Also, I noticed the capacitor on your drone is hanging out the side by the props just asking to be knocked off. One trick that I've learned to combat that is to use some small wire extensions solder to the leads of your cap so you can place it in a more protected spot and the flexible wire also helps protect the leads from snapping. In frames with enough room for the cap to be placed standing parallel next to a standoff i will use a zip-tie to secure it around the cap and standoff which seems to provide the best results. Last thing, secure the battery lead at least 2 spots on the frame with zip ties, it will save your fc pads from being lifted and your wires from getting chopped.
6. 3D print some TPU props :) I did once and I still can't believe they worked first time. See 52:42 mark in "DJI drone gets FCC hack. FrSky promises HD FPV system? (FPV News with JB and @ItsBlunty)"
@LetsFlyRC I uploaded a 3D model remix of the TANQ Arm Protectors to fit the Fly High FPV LED strip through and made them thicker. Get yourself a LED strip on that thing! 🚨💡
![[Limbus Company - Teaser] Season5 - Oblivion](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8anKuEeZLeI/mqdefault.jpg)
Tip 1 - build and hang on the wall 😎
I uses hockey stick tape to protect my wires on the arms, its really abrasion resistant and light weight, plus comes in bright colors, a roll last me a long time, i use 2 layers and put a drop of super glue at the end to prevent it from unraveling, ive never chopped up my wires since...
Bro i just did the same thing. Not super glue yet but mine was advertised for baseball bats, and has "ribs" if you will. It probably even dampens some motor vibration up the arms but i wont really know until i put fresh props back on.
@@TavoFourSeven yeah it definitely can help with vibration dampening too, but i usually run a pretty stout frame so vibration hasn't been too much of an issue
What is the weight of this build with all that protection?
Sorry, I didn’t weigh it. If I remember, I will come back and reply with the answer when I get to a scale. :)
@@LetsFlyRC I don't mind heavy build but im curious 😊
Tip nr 4 - just use racewire
it also helps if you need to replace a motor
I don't run an action cam, but I do like the idea of a battery protecting TPU skeleton bolted down in the front and extending over the battery... Time to bust out CAD.
There's diamond braid rope that i take the core out of and slide over my motor wires then use a zip-tie to secure them to the arm. I've never had one fail me and have been doing it that way for over 2 years. Also, I noticed the capacitor on your drone is hanging out the side by the props just asking to be knocked off. One trick that I've learned to combat that is to use some small wire extensions solder to the leads of your cap so you can place it in a more protected spot and the flexible wire also helps protect the leads from snapping. In frames with enough room for the cap to be placed standing parallel next to a standoff i will use a zip-tie to secure it around the cap and standoff which seems to provide the best results. Last thing, secure the battery lead at least 2 spots on the frame with zip ties, it will save your fc pads from being lifted and your wires from getting chopped.
do you have a design for a fullsize gopro, like a 9? I like the idea of maximum protection
Props out - single-handedly the best crash-recovery move I’ve made.
Where can we get some of the 3D files that you use?
Dude you are awesome! Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the kind words. I hope they help you. :)😊
How do you get your 3d prints so nice?
if you mute this it looks like youre trying to rap.
🤣
That’s hilarious. Gotta put in some rap beat and watch it on silent. 😂
Fire video boys!
Fourth one was from Mr. Steele if I remember well
Get a tripod. 🤙
thanks
Front bumper !
1st! Boom.
is it me, or is the audio enhanced with ai?
6. 3D print some TPU props :)
I did once and I still can't believe they worked first time.
See 52:42 mark in "DJI drone gets FCC hack. FrSky promises HD FPV system? (FPV News with JB and @ItsBlunty)"
We printed some of the “quiet” props and they lasted a few seconds. And exploded. 😂 😊
Never would have thought of using a go pro mount with no go pro , thanks letsflyrc I always love your content
A Walksnail system in a Rotor Riot video? Nice.
nice
That thumbnail, tho. 😂
@LetsFlyRC I uploaded a 3D model remix of the TANQ Arm Protectors to fit the Fly High FPV LED strip through and made them thicker. Get yourself a LED strip on that thing! 🚨💡
@@Monty_FPVwow, what???? That sounds really cool. I’m going to look that up. 🔥
@@LetsFlyRC it's up on printables! I'll add it to your thingiverse in 10 minutes. 👍
Zip tie the power wires to the frame, so in a crash the wires and their pads are not stripped from the esc
Спасибо бро 👍👍👍👍❤