I love learning about regional fashions, because so often it's portrayed as "London/Paris but out of date" when that's not at all what was going on. Instead what we see is a blend of "centralised fashion" and local trends. Here in norther Norway there's a type of winter footwear that might date back to the Iron age (though the way it's made has definitely changed since then, since knitting a big, thick pair of wool socks is the first step in the modern version) that's not really seen anywhere else, and near where my mother is from there was a specific style that was reserved for Sunday use.
Is it Lugga/Lugger/Ladda you're referring to? They're super interesting, I really wanna research more into them as they were such useful and unique shoes to wear as a kid 😊
@@LiljaHusmo I was always envious of my neighbours who had lugga they could wear whenever the snow was dry enough. If I ever get around to making myself a pair, I also want to make a pair of Iron Age leather shoes to wear over them when it’s too wet for just lugga. The Sunday variety from Rana are called svartlugga, due to their colour
@@ragnkja I was lucky enough that my mum knew how to make them so I had two pairs growing up (maybe more but two i remember) one red & white with Selbu pattern, and one pair of svartlugga!
It was so lovely chatting with you!! Thank you for having me ♥️ There's soooo much to say about Scottish Clothing History and I hope people will find this interesting enough to learn even more!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge of Scottish fashion! I particularly enjoyed your explanation of the early popularity of checked fabrics. It makes complete sense that by combining threads from different dye lots with white or contrasting colors would disguise the dye variation while also providing an attractive pattern. I subscribed and look forward to binge watching your channel!
Thank you so much for sharing your brilliant knowledge with us all Lilja! ❤️ I also hope this episode encourages people to dive even deeper into Scottish fashion history 🥰
Huzzah! Two of my favorite Cos Tube-ers together in one video. Such a treat. Bonus points for teaching me about my own heritage as a hyphenated Scots-Canadian (2nd gen born here - everyone I need to be on the continent arrived by the early 1920's). We come from the Isle of Lewis and Glascow. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
_Side Question_ - were the 'Uglies' shaped like that to accommodate for curly hair? Um, asking for a friend... yeah. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
The fine wool from Shetland used to be knitted into underwear as well as the lace shawls. Very sought after and expensive as they take a long time on very fine needles. It is very soft against the skin so is ideal for keeping warm without adding bulk. Most patterns I've seen are from early-mid 20th century. I am aware of Victorian knitted combinations so I assume the commercial patterns originated from much earlier knowledge. Knitting smalls also produces less bulky seams than cutting into woven fabric that frays easily.
I used to have knitted wool underwear as a kid, they're definitely very useful & warm for colder weather, if I could knit I'd love to make some wool combinations 😊
Anything in wool, even super fine is a lesson in pain. I knitted my grandson a vest. Never again, even with cotton long sleeves I come up in itchy welts. I always liked tartan, but not for me.
I love how the traditions all boils down to (pun not intended) the common, communal dye pot and local resources. Eventually I'm sure the weavers of different counties would be trying to outdo each other in design and colour harmony. I live in the Ottawa Valley in Canada. It was a region populated by the French, Irish and Scottish immigrants in the 1800's. Enough of a population to have the annual Glengarry Highland Games. From what little I've seen, the Scotts took on local dress almost instantly - which may have something to do with the very harsh winters around here. There's a saying, 'none more Scotts than the Scotts away'. Which is code for we all keep the shortbread tins with the historic pictures on the front. Sadly, my Granny's Gaelic did not get passed down. The language now only survives in small communities in Cape Bretton in Nova Scotia. There are summer fiber workshops that will teach you the old weaving songs as you work on a loom. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
It really is amazing how that’s the case! I’d imagine people had some fun with competing against eachother by making new designs and styles and getting even more innovative with their woven textiles 😊 There’s a very interesting old video I’ve found on Archive of Scottish women in the 20th century kneading wool with water whilst singing songs.
@@VBirchwoodWhat you are describing is called ‘waulking the tweed’ and the ‘water’ is in fact urine which sets the dye in the fabric. To keep the rythmn going, they sang Gaelic waulking songs with one woman singing the lead the rest joining in on the chorus. My sister is a member of a ‘waulking group’ and they give demonstrations at the Auchindrain Township museum near Inveraray.
I'm Scottish and studied textiles and fashion design so this is really interesting to me! I recognized a lot of the items but was unsure of the exact history so this really helped educate me :)
Those West Lothian “Uglies” look just like the hats women wear on Lothal in Star Wars: Rebels and it blows my mind, so excited to have found the inspiration for such an interesting costume design choice
Thank you for this wonderful video sharing the fascinating fashion history of my country. My family are from Skye and Glasgow so I have both highland and lowland roots. I loved seeing what common people wore as most of the historical sites that have portraits to view only depict the nobility. In my own experience there’s much more knowledge of historical mens fashion in Scotland than woman’s fashion so I thoroughly enjoyed seeing what women were wearing. I will definitely be checking out Lilja’s channel. Tapadh leat!
So glad you enjoyed the video Bonnie! I’m really grateful as well that Lilja shared her knowledge about both working class and Scottish womenswear, because as you say, it’s so much less available!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It means a lot to have different cultures history kept alive through discussions and research and not just dismissed
This was another fun one, I’ve had a soft spot for tartan so knowing more about Scottish fashion, this was a treat. She’s a beautiful lady, thanks for all the good ol’ history and fashion goodies~. Those silk tartan gowns are to die for. ( ꒪⌓꒪)
All tartan is plaid, but not all plaid is tartan. Tartan is registered in Scotland and has a distinct weave pattern that an expert, without counting threads, can recognize as distinct from other tartans. District tartans are older as people moved into a district, had access to the plants that provided the dye, and the technicians, the weavers, that produced the cloth. They wore what was available and some say they could be identified by 'the colour of their cloth'. Family tartans came later as the families increased in wealth and power. Maybe the clan chief went to fight overseas and brought back a dye stuff and wanted to memorialize his adventures. ... The tartan registries really came from Walter Scott convincing the King that he should visit his northern territories... He went up and talked to the clan chiefs and told them to trick out their men in 'highland dress' and there was a mad scramble to the woolen mills to find out what their tartan was supposed to be as England had outlawed 'regional dress' two generations before. The miller flipped through a book and pointed at a page and told the man that, as far as he recalled, that was his tartan...and got an order for however many kilts! He then wrote that clan name aside the picture and sat back and waited for the next chief to arrive.
Oh my goodness I am so incredibly excited to watch this video! I haven’t even gotten past the introduction yet but I have been seeking this information but unable to do it myself because of my other obligations in life! I’m so happy right now!
31:25 I find it fascinating when a specific regional or cultural clothing style survives longer in men's wear than women's wear. In so many cultures I can think of around the world, the men adopt mainstream western clothing and the women continue to wear traditional clothes. I'm thinking of the Mayan peoples in Central America, where many women wear traje, and many South Asian cultures, where women wear saris or shalwar kameez, but nearly all men will wear western shirts and pants. I'd love to learn more examples of traditional clothing surviving for men longer than for women, if anyone knows of more examples.
Speaking of plaid, so I live in France and one thing I learned is that plaid means a throw blanket in French. I have no idea if this came into French from the Norse when they conquered Normandy or from the Scottish since the French and Scottish had pretty close ties for centuries. I was discussing it with my husband (whose French) and I was like if it did come from the Scots it kinda made sense since a traditional kilt was just this big piece of fabric that was hand pleated up like a sari and looked like a big blanket, hence for the French a throw blanket for the sofa became a plaid. Though now I'm starting to wonder if it really did come from the Norse, lol
It's very interesting with emythological theories! if it's called Plaid in French it makes sense it would come from scotland considering the close allyship between the two, in Norwegian pledd (plaid) means blanket / throw blanket today so there's definitely a common ancestor of the word there 😊
Unfortunately yous missed a print of Scottish Highlanders hunting from Holinshed's Chronicle from 1577. It shows the highlanders wearing clothes very similar, if not identical to 16th century Irish.
I love this so much! And I;m so excited if you continue to travel around the globe with this concept because that would be absolutely amazing! Of course no pressure, it's your choice on what to make!
I am my family branch's genealogist and have found roots in Scotland, Ireland and Wales, both noble and common. Because of that, I became very interested in the tartans/arisaids/kilts and the earliest they showed up. You've said they show up regionally (makes sense) in the 1600's and family tartans being chosen in 1822. So now I can go back to my tree and see where families were located and also what families had adopted to decide which tartans apply. I know that there are really no rules, where whatever tartan you love but wearing a pattern that my families' would've worn has a value for me. Is it safe to assume that many patterns would've been worn as women married into other clans? Them bringing their family patterns to the marriage would trickle down to the kids, "Here, wear your grandda's plaid, it's very warm." That seems to make sense as plaids would've been worn till they fell apart. If this is the case, I have hundreds of years worth of patterns from which to choose.🥰
Passing your kilt down was definitely a thing then as well as now, my partner has a Mackenzie kilt from his grandfather and families using each others tartan is very common! Most families will have several to choose from and usually choose ones they feel the closest to 😊
Hahaha! The thought of soldiers and explorers wearing houppelandes made me laugh so hard! All those pipe roll pleats would actually make wearing armor incredibly uncomfortable if not downright impossible because we’re not talking about about just a roll or two! This is going to stick in my mind forever when I look at 15th century art depicting warfare. BTW would you ever consider doing a 500 years of fashion for old Scandinavian clothing including Viking women’s clothing? Or how about women’s clothing from 900 to 1400? I love your channel and learn so much from your videos. Many thanks.
I just found out that instead of my makeup being mostly Italian, it is mostly Scottish. So I found this video very timely. I love the dress you are wearing for it. Awesome colors!
I would suggest that the lady in the etching with the gown covered partly by a cape with a bill is actually wearing a rain cape. The bill at the front projects to keep the rain out of her face and the mid length cape protects most of her upper garments from being saturated on a “fine, soft day”.
Wow V, this video was the equivalent of watching a class! A very interesting one, I must say! You guys had me laughing at the part of the underwear (the flashing mentioning part lol) and I'd like to see king George's pink tights too. lol This video is really amazing! 😍👏
Re these woollen paisley shawls. I had no idea they were worn in Scotland too! So maybe they were worn in more countries? They were super popular in the Netherlands during the 19th century too. It was said they came through German season-workers who travelled from the Westfalen area of Germany to help with the laborintensive harvest-season. These workers carried tools and food in these cloths and called it a "wurzeltuch" which quite literally translates to "carrot-cloth" (cloth or canvas really) where the Dutch term "Worteldoek" comes from which has the same meaning. Not so much because they often are orange-coloured lol. Where I live, east NL border area with Germany, they were quite popular to wear with regional folkwear clothing. From my understanding the big ones, 130cm to 180cm squared, were popular during the mid-19th century whilst smaller ones, 80cm to 100cm squared, were worn right around 1900 or so. Most people of my parents generation (born in the 60's) or grandparents generation might know these today due these being *very* often used as a decor piece. I've heard people saying these were hung behind a mirror or coatrack in the hallway. Some said they knew someone who hung them above the fireplace. I recently got one myself, it may be a newer/reproduction one since it's in INCREDIBLE condition and has serged side edges. But I don't mind given it's 140cmx260cm lol. It is *very* warm and comfy 😉
It was very popular all over Europe and America, so makes sense they'd be cherished as heirlooms as the patterns are beautifully intricate, the patterns originate from around Kashmir and in the beginning would be traded to the west until weavers locally learned to copy the styles, it's now known as Paisley today because of the town Paisley in Scotland being famous for the skilled production of these shawls!
Thank you so much for the focus on wider geographic, sociopolitical & economic groups! Really appreciate that breadth & mindfulness in the content you and your collaborators bring us - as you've noted, this stuff tends to get glanced over in fashion history, so it's awesome to see it being brought back to light. A big thank you to you + your collaborators also for all the hard yards you put in research-wise on these topics, where primary sources can be difficult and time-consuming to unearth! Can't wait to see where the "500 years" series goes next, and how far afield it ranges. There are so many fascinating folk costumes specific to various regions over time... Plus such a wealth of textile history in places like India, Africa, the Arctic circle, Melanesia & the Pacific which just don't get much coverage?
Thank you so much Anna for your acknowledgement! It’s very appreciated 😊 I definitely have so many far stretching plans for this series (geographically speaking) and have future episodes lined up that I can’t wait to produce and share.
I've also heard of nettle (yes, stinging nettle) as an alternative material for undergarments in areas too cold for flax to grow. It's apparently very soft, sturdy, and antibacterial (supposedly).
Very interesting videos about the wedding gown shown: Recreating the Isabella MacTavish Fraser Scottish Tartan Wedding Dress ruclips.net/video/43ZTV_YxlgI/видео.html The Isabella Project playlist from Timeless Dress ruclips.net/p/PLSr1jqwXQjJrvh7n28qEvDUCBD5a1I0F9
I actually got to go to see the making of the Isabella gown in person it was such a great experience! Rebecca & her team were incredibly talented and knowledgeable 🥰
This was fascinating! All of these 500 years videos are, but I feel like this one had even more stuff I hadn't heard before than usual (definately warrants a rewatch to really get to grips with it, methinks)
Okay some very interesting things i will note here that french dipiction with the four drawings i dont know if they were all of scottish men/women but there were some very interesting cross overs with artist from the same period drawing irish men like kerns, so on the right the gentleman appears to be wearing a big coat with what looks like sheeps wool that looks very similar to an irish brat which is exactly that same material sheeps wool on the picture to the left of that one the gentleman with a sword in the scabard, that scabard again is actually dipicted in drawings made by a man who traveled to ireland in the 1500s infact theres a recreation in a museum in ireland its thought that the tassles on the scabard were actually functional esscentially because the uk and ireland are very wet countries there is a process that happens with the scabbard and the tassles when rain water hits the scabard esscentially the water gets drawn out towards the tassals that would keep your sword dry and help prevent your sword rusting. And on the picture on the left it looks very similar to an Irish leine which is like the first layer of clothing but on further inspection it isnt long like an irish leine but the sleeves are the same but heres where it gets very interesting that vest over the top of those puffey sleeves that looks again in the same style as an irish ioner which kerns wore whats interesting though is they typically have open sleeves but that picture does have the little crimps at the bottom of the ioner vest which is the same style so we have what seems to be heavily influenced clothing but worn differently! which is fascinating because you dont see this stuff on English men which means irish and scottish have fashion influence on one another if this is an accurate dipiction and considering ive seen examples from 2 other artists of the same period with very similar clothes i think it is absolutely loved this especially the trousers which look really stylish!
On Lilja's left, there is an odd looking dog wagging its tail. There is a picture of an odd looking dog on the wall above her. The plant beside her looks like it has been partly eaten. I'm assuming this is for Halloween. I have not seen these decorations here (U.S.A.) yet. This is interesting.
Oh wow this video is fascinating, and that bit about why people remember to not wear underwear under tunics was super interesting and makes perfect sense!
In the past, a man's only undergarment was his shirt. The only difference with a kilt is that there's nothing to tuck the shirttails into so that they stay neatly wrapped around his crotch.
If one group buys from the Wallyworld at Jonestown then they’ll all look one way and if group B buys from the Targét in Janesville then they’ll have a different fabric. Personally I’d like to see folx wearing more kilts.
Hi from Scotland a year on from when your video was originally posted, I have watched today and found it very interesting, thank you. I am also a new spinner and weaver and I plan to make my own Earasaig. I would also love to make my own traditional dress to wear under it, however as there does not seem to be much specifically on how to make Scottish garments, when I googled it, I am not sure where to start regarding finding how to make my own traditional dress to wear. Would either of you be able to assist me in choosing what to search for and make? Interestingly I grew up and live in Fife, Scotland, which I understand has a rich history in the textile industry. So I should probably start a local search too at my local museum. I really love the idea of weaving and sewing my own traditional dress. Regards T x
Oh hell yeah, Celtic fashion history!! and working peoples' clothing!! I am so pumped to be hearing more about these topics because F the English crown and only knowing about fancy dress. (also - yes, everyone go subscribe to Lilja! her videos are so chill and she's definitely underrated)
I always appreciate a nuanced look at what people who weren't the elite of London and Paris were wearing, because it's always a lot more interesting than "same as London/Paris but out of date".
First, I've never heard an articulate explanation of plaid. It makes so much sense now -- the dye lots, etc. Second, what the heck is that doggo wagging it's tail. I also followed @Lilja Husmo. Awesome vid. Thank you.
Okay so how many of you noticed the Skelton in the corner wagging his tail and nodding his head🙀🙀🙀 Loved the video, I was doing research on my family clan tartan, it has a few patterns in the clan, but the one that was a constant was the tartan colours used on the hunting tartan, this was closer to the colours of nature more muted in colour, which thankfully is great because I find the main one a little too loud for me😹😹😹. This video popped up once I had finished my research and where I can order the fabric and just had to watch. I’m actually from the Shetland Islands and as such our clothing was closer to Norwegian in style than mainland Scotland. Thank you for doing and sharing the history of Scottish fashion.🤗🤗
I love this series. I'm irish so most of my knowledge on fashion History is British because they oppressed us for such a long time. And coming from a culture that was oppressed for such a long time, like Scotland, most of history was discarded and only really documented when the oppressors won or were judging our lifestyles.
So glad you love the series! Thank you for sharing about your heritage as well. I feel very passionate about representing colonised voices too as I’m a Kazan Tatar and we were and still are heavily colonised. One of my grandparents was also Irish/Scottish, so again, more colonisation and loss of culture/heritage.
Thank you for all your hard work and research. Its so enlightening to see. Its so cool that you have irish/Scottish background. The Celtics used to go over to Scotland to learn to fight so our culture has been working together for centuries. I just watched a video of how useful the plaid was in terms of survival. Absolutely extraordinary. Clothing is weaved so strongly into the culture. I'd love to learn more about the kazan tatar background and all the history about it. Hopefully we'll see it in a video soon. Mind yourself and don't work too hard
Ooh, this is fascinating! Out of curiosity, when did it become a common thing that formal highland dress always includes at least one knife? Was that only from the 19th-century revival, or is it older?
Is there any information to justify one on Irish fashion? My ancestry is primarily Irish and want to see what their fashion was in comparison to England but I have found absolutely nothing.
I noticed the belt your wearing, do you make them or buy? If you make them, where can I get the instructions? I love watching your tutorials. I learn a lot
Thank you so much! I made the wrapper I’m wearing, along with the matching belt. I used a pattern and instructions from the wrapper pattern (Laughing Moon 118), but to make a similar belt is fairly straightforward. You just measure the width and length you want, and double the width so that the belt is folded over on the long side in half. Leave one inch on each side extra for overlap with the length and then stitch it up with a layer of interfacing in the middle (I use cotton organdie). 😊 oh! And be sure to add seam allowance all the way around too.
From a variety of places (lots of pattern books for example). The Victorian Dressmaker by Prior Attire, Patterns of Fashion, Making Working Women’s Costume, are all books I regularly use. With regards to commercial pattern companies I like Black Snail patterns, Laughing Moon, Reconstructing History
@@ragnkja I get mine from Midland textiles (sell a lot of curtains actually) or from AmoThreads when a deadstock batch recently popped up. I would check curtain shops as it is very often used in the production of curtains.
Vasi, First of all, it's so nice to have you back, sharing your knowledge and smile with us . I hope you took enough time to truly feel up to all the many jobs you do and the challenges of RUclips. What a very thought provoking video this was! It did a lot of myth busting of what was actually worn by Scott's and the Highlanders. I feel the need to do a deep dive into 1600-1800's of what was worn and how important having "Clan Tartans.... " were. I had always assumed ( because of bias/ assumptions in books and tv that they were a vital part of who they were and where they were from. I do enjoy when you have taught me something that I want to learn so much more about! Thank you so much for the gift of knowledge and the beautiful way you approach history, the clothing worn and so much more! You have qualities that are very special and difficult to come by. I wish you a beautiful week. Take good care of yourself. I hope your adorable pup is doing well also. With sincere gratitude, Audri
Hi Audri! Thanks for your patience with my response. I have been absolutely overwhelmed by work this week! Thank you so much for your absolutely beautiful comment. I, too, until I started diving more into Scottish fashion, assumed tartans were related to specific clans (I’m guessing because of Outlander). It’s really wonderful to have someone like Lilja who is so knowledgable about the topic bust some of these myths. I hope your week and start to autumn are going well! Vasi
I'm off a week somehow. I honestly thought you had posted last week and this was the off week, lol. This ways a fun little look into the past it Scottish fashion. Especially with the undergarments being made of wool in the more northern parts of the world. Especially Scandinavia. We are trying unschooling this year with my duaghter and she has opted to study dress history. We have been focusing a little on the undergarments and historical stitches. We followed a tutorial for making her a chemise. We didn't do any hand stitching on its, but it was a fun project for her. I got her to watch part if this with me. I'm going to have her watch it again. It was very informative and if think she could learn a lot from it. I would love to see more historical fashion from all over. There is a lot of hype going around lately about who were what when but there never seems to be an real accuracy. Vikings being a big one. Everyone thought for a long time they wore helmets with horns and did nothing but raid and pillage. That has since been debunked. I think it would be fun to see what else can be debunked. Back when Brave was coming out a lot of people thought it would be great to wear their clan's tartan to the theater to watch the movie. Thinking it would be fun I jumped on that band wagon. I started researching my father's name and tried to find the family tartan. I discovered that the McLean family fused and split and there are officially two tartans with the original being lost to history. But this video gives me more of an idea of where to look and what to look for in a tartan that might be true to my ancestors clan. Knowing that colors were mire region specific. And not this side of the clan went green and blue and his side went red and yellow. I guess you could say I'm taking away more than just a little bit if fun history from this. One little off topic tid bit I want to share with your. Since we were discussing fermenting, another mom from our homeschool group shared with me that she fed her sourdough starter yogurt and it took off. I came hime and fed mine sime of my me over milk. I had to grab an extra jar because it was over flowing the jar! I don't know if you are into sourdough but if you are you might want to try it. 😊
Hi DesertRose! I had an OCD relapse recently so I took a week off, and I’m glad I did because I also ended up getting a cold (not the virus thankfully) and that made me bedridden for a few days, so it was some much needed time off 😊 I’m feeling so much better now though! Very awesome to hear about how this video has so many take aways for you. Also amazing that your daughter is looking deeper into dress history! I appreciate the sourdough tip too as I have a wheat intolerance but I regularly eat pure rye sourdough and this tip will come in handy 🥰 I hope you have a lovely two weeks!
@@VBirchwood we are a gluten free family for similar reasons. We are all gluten intolerant and at least one of my boys its allergic to wheat. I've been using a mix our buckwheat, sorgum and GF bread flour for mine. The kefir milk caused it to take off and over flow the jar. It was super exciting. Sorry to hear up I got sick and glad you are feeling better. Take your time and get plenty of sunshine and we will see you again in a couple weeks ❤️
Such an informative and entertaining video, I've already watched it twice (and took notes.) I love your "500 years" series, and meeting your knowledgable guests. Also subscribed to Lilja's channel - thank you for the recommendation!
Thank you for another great video. It was really interesting as I have ancestor who were Scottish as well as English, Irish and danish and I have always wonder what they might be wearing.
Wool can be extremely comfortable undergarments. Can't say how they make them so but I have two 100% wool undersweaters I wore for years working out of doors in winter snow and cold. Very soft against the skin & better than cheap quality modern synthetics (polypropylene) and cotton. The thing is initially I worried about heavy physical activity I would be too hot and then chilled from damp perspiration in breaks. Nope, perfect for both physical activity as well as standing around in the cold. I've always been a huge fan of wools but had to experience to believe such a fiber against my most tender bits a delight as well. 😊
I have only just discovered your channel and I am so happy I have always loved hand sewing but I never knew where to learn. Then I found you! Now I am wondering, what would you suggest is a good project for a first project?
Welcome to the channel! 😊 I would recommend choosing a project you feel passionate towards made up of simple shapes. A lovely pillowcase or a tunic can be a great practice project for getting the hang of stitches. If you like historical fashion then I’d recommend something like a shift or chemise.
Ooooo you almost got me there! 🤣 so sweet though, thank you Lilja! I have a lot of future plans with this series so hopefully I’ll introduce some individuals that you haven’t heard of yet 🥰
As someone studying Scottish Gaelic language and culture who occasionally recreates historical Gaelic style garments, this video totally lit up my heart. We even study some of these paintings included in the video in uni! The plaids and their Irish Gaelic connections (from which the folding is sometimes thought to come from), the Celtic connections, & the migration patterns + cultural events of the times is so fascinating, especially since the plaid is so enduring! Thank you for honoring Scottish fashion! I thought to also share that some of the songs in Gaelic also highlight the fashions at any given time as well. For example, a song from the 1500s called 'Bothan Àirigh Am Bràigh Raithneach' includes details of both highland dress and Elizabethan fashions of the lowlands and England too. Anyway, as someone who found your channel whilst making an outfit for my Irish ancestors, I am so grateful to have stumbled upon your work. Many thanks and blessings!
Aww thank you so much Rachel! This is all very heartwarming to read, and I'm so glad that this video lit your heart up. Thank you for the song recommendations as well as I love Celtic music.
Love this! I'm working on a couple of novels and I'm having the damndest time finding out what people wore in Scotland during a specific time period. Everything pulls up English or American.
Wow! Very enjoyable and informative, while I knit a gansey fisherman's sweater. Love tartans and kilts. Recently found purchased a good vintage kilt in my clan tartan on ebay. Aside: Is that a monstera obliqua in the window?
Thank you! I’d definitely like to at some point! I want to focus on areas outside of Europe for a bit but Dutch fashion will go on the list too for the future 😊
Thank you so much for this. Such an under researched and known topic. I hope you can expand on this theme maybe Ireland and Wales next? I’m so happy I found your channel I find you a very refreshing costumer. I’ve just been learning to sew during Covid so I am no professional I am no expert but I appreciate this topics you look into go out of mainstream. Which are extremely important and need to be heard.
It is interesting that in the part of Argyll where I live that Highland dress continued to be worn during Proscription. In the Old Statistical Account for Lochgoilhead and Kilmorich Rev Dugal McDougal states that the ‘inhabitants in general, except those who carry on the fishing, continue to wear the Highland dress, the bonnet, the philabeg, and tartan hose; even the authority of an act of Parliament, was not sufficient to make them relinquish their ancient garb.’ It was also common for ordinary women in the Highlands to have bare feet and it is something which was often remarked on in the writings of 18th and 19th century tourists to Scotland. The fake Sobieski brothers who claimed to be the illegitimate heirs of Bonnie Prince Charlie (they were in fact English) were responsible for much of the myth-making around tartan. ‘The brothers' two publications, Vestiarium Scoticum (Edinburgh, 1842) and The Costume of the Clans (Edinburgh, 1845), described by the historian Hugh Trevor-Roper as "shot through with pure fantasy and bare faced forgery", have been sources widely used by the tartan industry in Scotland’ en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sobieski_Stuarts I enjoyed your video.
This was really cool to listen to and watch! I wish you'd covered a bit more of the early 1700's though, instead of jumping straight to the 1740's and beyond :/ I'm trying to work on a very late 1600's to early 1700's style dress and would love to have seen a bit more for that.
Thanks you, that was a very interesting quick dash through the Scottish fashion history - and I think I finally understand the whole tartan it was real it wasn't real debate - Lilja Husmo summed that up very well.
I'm absolutely in love with this series!!! This is giving me so much knowladge because of this amazing fashion historians you are interviewing. They're awesome and the explanations are really esay to follow and always related to historical event so they make sense!
Thank you! This was very interesting. I have always been drawn to plaid and it's beautiful colors. I do have some scottish ancestry and that makes it all the more intriguing. I appreciate all your hard work and presentations!
The stripy wool and linen skirt sounds, interestingly, really similar to the skirts worn in the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands - also stripy linsey-woolsey - except not indigo. 😅 And I think there's something similar going on e.g. in Latvia, too. It's a good example of how some things really do happen simply because of the environment.
To know what the Scottish Gaidheal wore prior to 1600, you must look to Ireland, as the Irish and Scottish Gaedheal wore identical clothing. Prior to the reformation and English interference in the 16th cent. Gaelic Ireland and Gaelic Scotland was one common cultural area. Same language, same customs, same people. This of course was before the era of Victorian tartanalia.
I really enjoyed your video on scottish fashion history Also, as a side note, I have Irish and Scottish DNA ! My Great Grand parents on my fathers side were born in Ireland in the 1840s ! I have Scotch/Irish DNA !! I enjoy your vidoes
Thank you for doing this unfortunately my grandparents passed away before I was born and they were born and raised in Scotland so I really appreciate this
Personaly would rather see more clothes,and not the two girls as this spoils presentation,and more examples of clothing even if it had been re made as costumes to see fabric types colours and details.
Those ugly hats worn by women look a lot like the sun bonnets worn here when I was a child. My mother wore a sun bonnet to work in the gardens and yard until she died. I still own one; but, I don't wear it.
Be sure to go and subscribe to Lilja's amazing channel! ❤ Her videos are some of my favourites 🥰
madam, i hope your ok now physically,mentally and spiritually. happy to see you again.
i will wait for the updated subtitle. i hope u have a good day.
@@chad-kj5sz thank you very much!
@@eljun8935 automatic captions are now up and I will be able to edit them for accuracy tomorrow. Have a wonderful day!
Thank you for introducing Lilja to us! This was so fascinating and enjoyable 🙂💗🇨🇦
I love learning about regional fashions, because so often it's portrayed as "London/Paris but out of date" when that's not at all what was going on. Instead what we see is a blend of "centralised fashion" and local trends. Here in norther Norway there's a type of winter footwear that might date back to the Iron age (though the way it's made has definitely changed since then, since knitting a big, thick pair of wool socks is the first step in the modern version) that's not really seen anywhere else, and near where my mother is from there was a specific style that was reserved for Sunday use.
Is it Lugga/Lugger/Ladda you're referring to? They're super interesting, I really wanna research more into them as they were such useful and unique shoes to wear as a kid 😊
@@LiljaHusmo
I was always envious of my neighbours who had lugga they could wear whenever the snow was dry enough. If I ever get around to making myself a pair, I also want to make a pair of Iron Age leather shoes to wear over them when it’s too wet for just lugga. The Sunday variety from Rana are called svartlugga, due to their colour
@@ragnkja I was lucky enough that my mum knew how to make them so I had two pairs growing up (maybe more but two i remember) one red & white with Selbu pattern, and one pair of svartlugga!
It was so lovely chatting with you!! Thank you for having me ♥️
There's soooo much to say about Scottish Clothing History and I hope people will find this interesting enough to learn even more!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge of Scottish fashion! I particularly enjoyed your explanation of the early popularity of checked fabrics. It makes complete sense that by combining threads from different dye lots with white or contrasting colors would disguise the dye variation while also providing an attractive pattern. I subscribed and look forward to binge watching your channel!
@@carolyng5235 thank you! I'm so glad to hear that! 🥰
Thank you so much for sharing your brilliant knowledge with us all Lilja! ❤️ I also hope this episode encourages people to dive even deeper into Scottish fashion history 🥰
Huzzah! Two of my favorite Cos Tube-ers together in one video. Such a treat. Bonus points for teaching me about my own heritage as a hyphenated Scots-Canadian (2nd gen born here - everyone I need to be on the continent arrived by the early 1920's). We come from the Isle of Lewis and Glascow.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
_Side Question_ - were the 'Uglies' shaped like that to accommodate for curly hair? Um, asking for a friend... yeah.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
The fine wool from Shetland used to be knitted into underwear as well as the lace shawls. Very sought after and expensive as they take a long time on very fine needles. It is very soft against the skin so is ideal for keeping warm without adding bulk. Most patterns I've seen are from early-mid 20th century. I am aware of Victorian knitted combinations so I assume the commercial patterns originated from much earlier knowledge. Knitting smalls also produces less bulky seams than cutting into woven fabric that frays easily.
I used to have knitted wool underwear as a kid, they're definitely very useful & warm for colder weather, if I could knit I'd love to make some wool combinations 😊
And wedding dresses. There are tales that in Shetland the wool is so fine that the wedding dress can be pulled through the wedding ring.
@@SunnyMorningPancakes 😯
That does seem like it would take forever! By underwear here do we mean a shift/chemise or something else?
Anything in wool, even super fine is a lesson in pain. I knitted my grandson a vest. Never again, even with cotton long sleeves I come up in itchy welts. I always liked tartan, but not for me.
I’m dying over the doggie in the corner.
So is the dog.😁
He’s a very good boy 😊
What is the significance of the skeleton dog? Is that a filter or an actual robotic dog (for lack of a better term)?
And his photo on the wall 😂
I love how the traditions all boils down to (pun not intended) the common, communal dye pot and local resources. Eventually I'm sure the weavers of different counties would be trying to outdo each other in design and colour harmony.
I live in the Ottawa Valley in Canada. It was a region populated by the French, Irish and Scottish immigrants in the 1800's. Enough of a population to have the annual Glengarry Highland Games. From what little I've seen, the Scotts took on local dress almost instantly - which may have something to do with the very harsh winters around here. There's a saying, 'none more Scotts than the Scotts away'. Which is code for we all keep the shortbread tins with the historic pictures on the front. Sadly, my Granny's Gaelic did not get passed down. The language now only survives in small communities in Cape Bretton in Nova Scotia. There are summer fiber workshops that will teach you the old weaving songs as you work on a loom.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
It really is amazing how that’s the case! I’d imagine people had some fun with competing against eachother by making new designs and styles and getting even more innovative with their woven textiles 😊
There’s a very interesting old video I’ve found on Archive of Scottish women in the 20th century kneading wool with water whilst singing songs.
@@VBirchwoodWhat you are describing is called ‘waulking the tweed’ and the ‘water’ is in fact urine which sets the dye in the fabric. To keep the rythmn going, they sang Gaelic waulking songs with one woman singing the lead the rest joining in on the chorus. My sister is a member of a ‘waulking group’ and they give demonstrations at the Auchindrain Township museum near Inveraray.
I'm Scottish and studied textiles and fashion design so this is really interesting to me! I recognized a lot of the items but was unsure of the exact history so this really helped educate me :)
What an ideal combination to relate to this video! 🥰 I’m so glad that it’s been helpful 😊
Those West Lothian “Uglies” look just like the hats women wear on Lothal in Star Wars: Rebels and it blows my mind, so excited to have found the inspiration for such an interesting costume design choice
Thank you for this wonderful video sharing the fascinating fashion history of my country. My family are from Skye and Glasgow so I have both highland and lowland roots. I loved seeing what common people wore as most of the historical sites that have portraits to view only depict the nobility. In my own experience there’s much more knowledge of historical mens fashion in Scotland than woman’s fashion so I thoroughly enjoyed seeing what women were wearing. I will definitely be checking out Lilja’s channel. Tapadh leat!
So glad you enjoyed the video Bonnie! I’m really grateful as well that Lilja shared her knowledge about both working class and Scottish womenswear, because as you say, it’s so much less available!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It means a lot to have different cultures history kept alive through discussions and research and not just dismissed
You’re very welcome! Many more diverse episodes to come 😊
This was another fun one, I’ve had a soft spot for tartan so knowing more about Scottish fashion, this was a treat. She’s a beautiful lady, thanks for all the good ol’ history and fashion goodies~.
Those silk tartan gowns are to die for. ( ꒪⌓꒪)
So glad you enjoyed the video Makeda! 🥰
The tartan gowns are so gorgeous, aren’t they?!
Very interesting but WHAT is that little creature to her left !??
@@iaeinformationcentre3307
It's a skeledog
The origin of "clan tartans" is a lot sweeter than it's usually portrayed =)
It really is so sweet and sentimental! 🥰
All tartan is plaid, but not all plaid is tartan. Tartan is registered in Scotland and has a distinct weave pattern that an expert, without counting threads, can recognize as distinct from other tartans. District tartans are older as people moved into a district, had access to the plants that provided the dye, and the technicians, the weavers, that produced the cloth. They wore what was available and some say they could be identified by 'the colour of their cloth'. Family tartans came later as the families increased in wealth and power. Maybe the clan chief went to fight overseas and brought back a dye stuff and wanted to memorialize his adventures. ... The tartan registries really came from Walter Scott convincing the King that he should visit his northern territories... He went up and talked to the clan chiefs and told them to trick out their men in 'highland dress' and there was a mad scramble to the woolen mills to find out what their tartan was supposed to be as England had outlawed 'regional dress' two generations before. The miller flipped through a book and pointed at a page and told the man that, as far as he recalled, that was his tartan...and got an order for however many kilts! He then wrote that clan name aside the picture and sat back and waited for the next chief to arrive.
Oh my goodness I am so incredibly excited to watch this video! I haven’t even gotten past the introduction yet but I have been seeking this information but unable to do it myself because of my other obligations in life! I’m so happy right now!
Yay!! That's such amazing news! I hope you enjoy watching it (and learn lots - I know I certain did!) 😊
31:25 I find it fascinating when a specific regional or cultural clothing style survives longer in men's wear than women's wear. In so many cultures I can think of around the world, the men adopt mainstream western clothing and the women continue to wear traditional clothes. I'm thinking of the Mayan peoples in Central America, where many women wear traje, and many South Asian cultures, where women wear saris or shalwar kameez, but nearly all men will wear western shirts and pants. I'd love to learn more examples of traditional clothing surviving for men longer than for women, if anyone knows of more examples.
Seems like Tibet and Nepal, and sone peooles in Africa, did that. Men adopted pants and shirts while wonen retained cultural dress
In Bhutan it is compulsory for men to wear traditional dress
This was so interesting and I love thar little skeleton dog in the corner! So Samhain!
Glad you enjoyed the video! Definitely super Samhain 😄
Speaking of plaid, so I live in France and one thing I learned is that plaid means a throw blanket in French. I have no idea if this came into French from the Norse when they conquered Normandy or from the Scottish since the French and Scottish had pretty close ties for centuries. I was discussing it with my husband (whose French) and I was like if it did come from the Scots it kinda made sense since a traditional kilt was just this big piece of fabric that was hand pleated up like a sari and looked like a big blanket, hence for the French a throw blanket for the sofa became a plaid. Though now I'm starting to wonder if it really did come from the Norse, lol
It's very interesting with emythological theories! if it's called Plaid in French it makes sense it would come from scotland considering the close allyship between the two, in Norwegian pledd (plaid) means blanket / throw blanket today so there's definitely a common ancestor of the word there 😊
@@LiljaHusmo PLAIDE, "blanket" is given as the definition in MacAlpine's "Pronouncing Gaelic Dictionary" (1898), but no etymological data is given.
Unfortunately yous missed a print of Scottish Highlanders hunting from Holinshed's Chronicle from 1577. It shows the highlanders wearing clothes very similar, if not identical to 16th century Irish.
I love this so much! And I;m so excited if you continue to travel around the globe with this concept because that would be absolutely amazing! Of course no pressure, it's your choice on what to make!
Thank you so much! I very much intend to do just that with this series 🥰 I have so many plans for the series in fact!
I am my family branch's genealogist and have found roots in Scotland, Ireland and Wales, both noble and common. Because of that, I became very interested in the tartans/arisaids/kilts and the earliest they showed up. You've said they show up regionally (makes sense) in the 1600's and family tartans being chosen in 1822.
So now I can go back to my tree and see where families were located and also what families had adopted to decide which tartans apply. I know that there are really no rules, where whatever tartan you love but wearing a pattern that my families' would've worn has a value for me.
Is it safe to assume that many patterns would've been worn as women married into other clans? Them bringing their family patterns to the marriage would trickle down to the kids, "Here, wear your grandda's plaid, it's very warm." That seems to make sense as plaids would've been worn till they fell apart.
If this is the case, I have hundreds of years worth of patterns from which to choose.🥰
Passing your kilt down was definitely a thing then as well as now, my partner has a Mackenzie kilt from his grandfather and families using each others tartan is very common! Most families will have several to choose from and usually choose ones they feel the closest to 😊
Very interesting ladies. I was never quite clear on the meanings of plaids & clan colors. Lilja's dog totally cracked me up. So well behaved! lol
Hahaha! The thought of soldiers and explorers wearing houppelandes made me laugh so hard! All those pipe roll pleats would actually make wearing armor incredibly uncomfortable if not downright impossible because we’re not talking about about just a roll or two! This is going to stick in my mind forever when I look at 15th century art depicting warfare. BTW would you ever consider doing a 500 years of fashion for old Scandinavian clothing including Viking women’s clothing? Or how about women’s clothing from 900 to 1400? I love your channel and learn so much from your videos. Many thanks.
I just found out that instead of my makeup being mostly Italian, it is mostly Scottish. So I found this video very timely. I love the dress you are wearing for it. Awesome colors!
Thanks so much! 😊
I would suggest that the lady in the etching with the gown covered partly by a cape with a bill is actually wearing a rain cape. The bill at the front projects to keep the rain out of her face and the mid length cape protects most of her upper garments from being saturated on a “fine, soft day”.
Wow V, this video was the equivalent of watching a class! A very interesting one, I must say! You guys had me laughing at the part of the underwear (the flashing mentioning part lol) and I'd like to see king George's pink tights too. lol This video is really amazing! 😍👏
Awww thank you so much Caroline! 🥰
I'm an artist looking for historical references to improve my designs and this video is godsent! Thank you so much for your work ❤❤
Re these woollen paisley shawls. I had no idea they were worn in Scotland too! So maybe they were worn in more countries?
They were super popular in the Netherlands during the 19th century too. It was said they came through German season-workers who travelled from the Westfalen area of Germany to help with the laborintensive harvest-season. These workers carried tools and food in these cloths and called it a "wurzeltuch" which quite literally translates to "carrot-cloth" (cloth or canvas really) where the Dutch term "Worteldoek" comes from which has the same meaning. Not so much because they often are orange-coloured lol.
Where I live, east NL border area with Germany, they were quite popular to wear with regional folkwear clothing. From my understanding the big ones, 130cm to 180cm squared, were popular during the mid-19th century whilst smaller ones, 80cm to 100cm squared, were worn right around 1900 or so.
Most people of my parents generation (born in the 60's) or grandparents generation might know these today due these being *very* often used as a decor piece. I've heard people saying these were hung behind a mirror or coatrack in the hallway. Some said they knew someone who hung them above the fireplace.
I recently got one myself, it may be a newer/reproduction one since it's in INCREDIBLE condition and has serged side edges. But I don't mind given it's 140cmx260cm lol. It is *very* warm and comfy 😉
Paisley is in Scotland, so that might be a clue ;)
The motif itself is also known as "boteh" or "buta", and is of Persian and/or Indian origin.
It was very popular all over Europe and America, so makes sense they'd be cherished as heirlooms as the patterns are beautifully intricate, the patterns originate from around Kashmir and in the beginning would be traded to the west until weavers locally learned to copy the styles, it's now known as Paisley today because of the town Paisley in Scotland being famous for the skilled production of these shawls!
@@ragnkja Yes, they were woven in Paisley.
Y’all must roll your eyes at Outlander then, lol. There is much discussion throughout the entire series on “clan” tartans.
I really like Outlander as a show, but yeah it definitely isn’t known for its historical accuracy 😅
OMG!! I loved it!! I've been hanging out for something like this for so long! 🥰❤️🥰❤️
I’m so glad!! 🥰 many more episodes of this series to come!
I can't wait to hear what both of you have to say and thank you for introducing me to yet another amazing creator!
Awww thanks so much! You’ll love Lilja’s channel 🥰
Thank you so much for the focus on wider geographic, sociopolitical & economic groups! Really appreciate that breadth & mindfulness in the content you and your collaborators bring us - as you've noted, this stuff tends to get glanced over in fashion history, so it's awesome to see it being brought back to light.
A big thank you to you + your collaborators also for all the hard yards you put in research-wise on these topics, where primary sources can be difficult and time-consuming to unearth!
Can't wait to see where the "500 years" series goes next, and how far afield it ranges. There are so many fascinating folk costumes specific to various regions over time... Plus such a wealth of textile history in places like India, Africa, the Arctic circle, Melanesia & the Pacific which just don't get much coverage?
Thank you so much Anna for your acknowledgement! It’s very appreciated 😊
I definitely have so many far stretching plans for this series (geographically speaking) and have future episodes lined up that I can’t wait to produce and share.
I've also heard of nettle (yes, stinging nettle) as an alternative material for undergarments in areas too cold for flax to grow. It's apparently very soft, sturdy, and antibacterial (supposedly).
I can't wait to see more videos in this series! Also I'm so in love with the dress you're wearing in this video 🤩
Thanks so much Rowena! 😊 I already have the filming of more episodes scheduled and I’m very excited about them 🥰
Very interesting videos about the wedding gown shown:
Recreating the Isabella MacTavish Fraser Scottish Tartan Wedding Dress
ruclips.net/video/43ZTV_YxlgI/видео.html
The Isabella Project playlist from Timeless Dress
ruclips.net/p/PLSr1jqwXQjJrvh7n28qEvDUCBD5a1I0F9
I actually got to go to see the making of the Isabella gown in person it was such a great experience! Rebecca & her team were incredibly talented and knowledgeable 🥰
This was fascinating! All of these 500 years videos are, but I feel like this one had even more stuff I hadn't heard before than usual (definately warrants a rewatch to really get to grips with it, methinks)
So glad you enjoyed this episode! I have so many future plans for this series 🥰
Okay some very interesting things i will note here that french dipiction with the four drawings i dont know if they were all of scottish men/women but there were some very interesting cross overs with artist from the same period drawing irish men like kerns, so on the right the gentleman appears to be wearing a big coat with what looks like sheeps wool that looks very similar to an irish brat which is exactly that same material sheeps wool
on the picture to the left of that one the gentleman with a sword in the scabard, that scabard again is actually dipicted in drawings made by a man who traveled to ireland in the 1500s infact theres a recreation in a museum in ireland its thought that the tassles on the scabard were actually functional esscentially because the uk and ireland are very wet countries there is a process that happens with the scabbard and the tassles when rain water hits the scabard esscentially the water gets drawn out towards the tassals that would keep your sword dry and help prevent your sword rusting.
And on the picture on the left it looks very similar to an Irish leine which is like the first layer of clothing but on further inspection it isnt long like an irish leine but the sleeves are the same but heres where it gets very interesting that vest over the top of those puffey sleeves that looks again in the same style as an irish ioner which kerns wore whats interesting though is they typically have open sleeves but that picture does have the little crimps at the bottom of the ioner vest which is the same style
so we have what seems to be heavily influenced clothing but worn differently! which is fascinating because you dont see this stuff on English men which means irish and scottish have fashion influence on one another if this is an accurate dipiction and considering ive seen examples from 2 other artists of the same period with very similar clothes i think it is absolutely loved this especially the trousers which look really stylish!
On Lilja's left, there is an odd looking dog wagging its tail. There is a picture of an odd looking dog on the wall above her. The plant beside her looks like it has been partly eaten. I'm assuming this is for Halloween. I have not seen these decorations here (U.S.A.) yet. This is interesting.
Oh wow this video is fascinating, and that bit about why people remember to not wear underwear under tunics was super interesting and makes perfect sense!
Thanks so much for watching! 🥰
In the past, a man's only undergarment was his shirt. The only difference with a kilt is that there's nothing to tuck the shirttails into so that they stay neatly wrapped around his crotch.
If one group buys from the Wallyworld at Jonestown then they’ll all look one way and if group B buys from the Targét in Janesville then they’ll have a different fabric.
Personally I’d like to see folx wearing more kilts.
Scottish fashion history is hard. I have friends who are interested in early period.
Hi from Scotland a year on from when your video was originally posted, I have watched today and found it very interesting, thank you. I am also a new spinner and weaver and I plan to make my own Earasaig. I would also love to make my own traditional dress to wear under it, however as there does not seem to be much specifically on how to make Scottish garments, when I googled it, I am not sure where to start regarding finding how to make my own traditional dress to wear. Would either of you be able to assist me in choosing what to search for and make? Interestingly I grew up and live in Fife, Scotland, which I understand has a rich history in the textile industry. So I should probably start a local search too at my local museum. I really love the idea of weaving and sewing my own traditional dress. Regards T x
Oh hell yeah, Celtic fashion history!! and working peoples' clothing!! I am so pumped to be hearing more about these topics because F the English crown and only knowing about fancy dress.
(also - yes, everyone go subscribe to Lilja! her videos are so chill and she's definitely underrated)
Woohoo! Nothing quite like learning about two underrepresented areas of fashion in one!! ❤️
And Lilja’s channel is really one of the best!
I always appreciate a nuanced look at what people who weren't the elite of London and Paris were wearing, because it's always a lot more interesting than "same as London/Paris but out of date".
First, I've never heard an articulate explanation of plaid. It makes so much sense now -- the dye lots, etc. Second, what the heck is that doggo wagging it's tail. I also followed @Lilja Husmo. Awesome vid. Thank you.
Okay so how many of you noticed the Skelton in the corner wagging his tail and nodding his head🙀🙀🙀
Loved the video, I was doing research on my family clan tartan, it has a few patterns in the clan, but the one that was a constant was the tartan colours used on the hunting tartan, this was closer to the colours of nature more muted in colour, which thankfully is great because I find the main one a little too loud for me😹😹😹. This video popped up once I had finished my research and where I can order the fabric and just had to watch. I’m actually from the Shetland Islands and as such our clothing was closer to Norwegian in style than mainland Scotland.
Thank you for doing and sharing the history of Scottish fashion.🤗🤗
It’s Lilja’s pet! 😂🥰
I’m so glad you enjoyed the video Angela! 😊
@@VBirchwood yea she has a picture of it on the wall
that tartan discussion sounds a lot like dirndls 😄
(though dirndls _are_ a good bit more recent)
LOL, Joseph coat of many colors now makes sense. They would have used all the leftover wool colors to make the youngest a coat.
Lol so true!
👍👍 I'm a Canadian with Scottish roots. My mother's maiden name is Mckellar.
Currently working on a comic with a Medieval Scottish Culture based character. This was excellent for inspiration. Thank you.
This sceleton dog on the right is freaking me out :D
I love this series. I'm irish so most of my knowledge on fashion History is British because they oppressed us for such a long time. And coming from a culture that was oppressed for such a long time, like Scotland, most of history was discarded and only really documented when the oppressors won or were judging our lifestyles.
So glad you love the series! Thank you for sharing about your heritage as well. I feel very passionate about representing colonised voices too as I’m a Kazan Tatar and we were and still are heavily colonised. One of my grandparents was also Irish/Scottish, so again, more colonisation and loss of culture/heritage.
Thank you for all your hard work and research. Its so enlightening to see. Its so cool that you have irish/Scottish background. The Celtics used to go over to Scotland to learn to fight so our culture has been working together for centuries.
I just watched a video of how useful the plaid was in terms of survival. Absolutely extraordinary. Clothing is weaved so strongly into the culture.
I'd love to learn more about the kazan tatar background and all the history about it. Hopefully we'll see it in a video soon. Mind yourself and don't work too hard
Ooh, this is fascinating!
Out of curiosity, when did it become a common thing that formal highland dress always includes at least one knife? Was that only from the 19th-century revival, or is it older?
The small knife is called a sgian dubh
ruclips.net/video/7BDP2itSjX8/видео.htmlsi=XK1AGM68OF_FwD2I
My greatgrandmother was Joan de Baufort. I will be attempting to reproduce her coronation dress. Yes the portrait sucks.
There's the doggie in the corner AND his picture on the wall. Love them!!!
Is there any information to justify one on Irish fashion? My ancestry is primarily Irish and want to see what their fashion was in comparison to England but I have found absolutely nothing.
I would love to at some point! 😊
Did anyone notice the little dog at the right corner of Lilja's room?
Her little pet 🥰😊
That dog skeleton thing she's got is hideous and unnerving. In God's name, why?
I noticed the belt your wearing, do you make them or buy? If you make them, where can I get the instructions? I love watching your tutorials. I learn a lot
Thank you so much! I made the wrapper I’m wearing, along with the matching belt. I used a pattern and instructions from the wrapper pattern (Laughing Moon 118), but to make a similar belt is fairly straightforward. You just measure the width and length you want, and double the width so that the belt is folded over on the long side in half. Leave one inch on each side extra for overlap with the length and then stitch it up with a layer of interfacing in the middle (I use cotton organdie). 😊 oh! And be sure to add seam allowance all the way around too.
@@VBirchwood where do get your patterns from. My of mind came from Amazon. I but past patterns for mid 1860.
From a variety of places (lots of pattern books for example). The Victorian Dressmaker by Prior Attire, Patterns of Fashion, Making Working Women’s Costume, are all books I regularly use. With regards to commercial pattern companies I like Black Snail patterns, Laughing Moon, Reconstructing History
@@VBirchwood
Any tips on where one might find cotton organdie in Europe?
@@ragnkja I get mine from Midland textiles (sell a lot of curtains actually) or from AmoThreads when a deadstock batch recently popped up. I would check curtain shops as it is very often used in the production of curtains.
Lovely video! Scotland is such a fascinating place.
Scotland is absolutely fascinating! Thanks so much for watching 😊
i really enjoyed this video. As a Scot I loved how Lilja pronounced 'plaid' as 'played' as this is how how I have always said it.
Fantastic job Vasi. I really love this series and that you and your guests pay attention to fashions across all classes.
Thanks so much! All class representation is so so important 🥰 I can’t wait to expand this series even further too! I have some exciting plans for it.
Extraordinary Topic #Very Informative
Well Done💯👏🏻👏🏻
6:00 and 6:20 they may have been wearing clothing to keep them warm and dry considering the fact that it rains a lot there.
Wtf why is there a happy dog skeleton sitting on the right? O.O
Vasi,
First of all, it's so nice to have you back, sharing your knowledge and smile with us . I hope you took enough time to truly feel up to all the many jobs you do and the challenges of RUclips.
What a very thought provoking video this was! It did a lot of myth busting of what was actually worn by Scott's and the Highlanders. I feel the need to do a deep dive into 1600-1800's of what was worn and how important having "Clan Tartans.... " were. I had always assumed ( because of bias/ assumptions in books and tv that they were a vital part of who they were and where they were from.
I do enjoy when you have taught me something that I want to learn so much more about! Thank you so much for the gift of knowledge and the beautiful way you approach history, the clothing worn and so much more! You have qualities that are very special and difficult to come by.
I wish you a beautiful week. Take good care of yourself. I hope your adorable pup is doing well also.
With sincere gratitude,
Audri
Hi Audri!
Thanks for your patience with my response. I have been absolutely overwhelmed by work this week!
Thank you so much for your absolutely beautiful comment. I, too, until I started diving more into Scottish fashion, assumed tartans were related to specific clans (I’m guessing because of Outlander). It’s really wonderful to have someone like Lilja who is so knowledgable about the topic bust some of these myths.
I hope your week and start to autumn are going well!
Vasi
10 minutes in and I just noticed the skeletal dog. 😆
I'm off a week somehow. I honestly thought you had posted last week and this was the off week, lol. This ways a fun little look into the past it Scottish fashion. Especially with the undergarments being made of wool in the more northern parts of the world. Especially Scandinavia. We are trying unschooling this year with my duaghter and she has opted to study dress history. We have been focusing a little on the undergarments and historical stitches. We followed a tutorial for making her a chemise. We didn't do any hand stitching on its, but it was a fun project for her. I got her to watch part if this with me. I'm going to have her watch it again. It was very informative and if think she could learn a lot from it. I would love to see more historical fashion from all over. There is a lot of hype going around lately about who were what when but there never seems to be an real accuracy. Vikings being a big one. Everyone thought for a long time they wore helmets with horns and did nothing but raid and pillage. That has since been debunked. I think it would be fun to see what else can be debunked. Back when Brave was coming out a lot of people thought it would be great to wear their clan's tartan to the theater to watch the movie. Thinking it would be fun I jumped on that band wagon. I started researching my father's name and tried to find the family tartan. I discovered that the McLean family fused and split and there are officially two tartans with the original being lost to history. But this video gives me more of an idea of where to look and what to look for in a tartan that might be true to my ancestors clan. Knowing that colors were mire region specific. And not this side of the clan went green and blue and his side went red and yellow. I guess you could say I'm taking away more than just a little bit if fun history from this.
One little off topic tid bit I want to share with your. Since we were discussing fermenting, another mom from our homeschool group shared with me that she fed her sourdough starter yogurt and it took off. I came hime and fed mine sime of my me over milk. I had to grab an extra jar because it was over flowing the jar! I don't know if you are into sourdough but if you are you might want to try it. 😊
If you look at the community posts, you'll see why you thought that: the video was delayed by a week.
Hi DesertRose! I had an OCD relapse recently so I took a week off, and I’m glad I did because I also ended up getting a cold (not the virus thankfully) and that made me bedridden for a few days, so it was some much needed time off 😊 I’m feeling so much better now though!
Very awesome to hear about how this video has so many take aways for you. Also amazing that your daughter is looking deeper into dress history! I appreciate the sourdough tip too as I have a wheat intolerance but I regularly eat pure rye sourdough and this tip will come in handy 🥰 I hope you have a lovely two weeks!
@@VBirchwood we are a gluten free family for similar reasons. We are all gluten intolerant and at least one of my boys its allergic to wheat. I've been using a mix our buckwheat, sorgum and GF bread flour for mine. The kefir milk caused it to take off and over flow the jar. It was super exciting. Sorry to hear up I got sick and glad you are feeling better. Take your time and get plenty of sunshine and we will see you again in a couple weeks ❤️
Such an informative and entertaining video, I've already watched it twice (and took notes.) I love your "500 years" series, and meeting your knowledgable guests. Also subscribed to Lilja's channel - thank you for the recommendation!
Thank you so much Carolyn! I’m so glad you enjoyed the video and got so much out of it. I think you’ll love Lilja’s channel 🥰
Yay! I love these “500 years of” videos:)
Thank you so much! I have so many future plans for this series 😊
Can someone address the robot dog in the bottom right corner of the historian’s shot?? 🧐 loved this video
Glad you enjoyed the video! He’s Lilja’s pet 😅😂
Just a quick observation. Culloden is pronounced Cull-odd-en.
I always wanted to know about this
Thank you for another great video. It was really interesting as I have ancestor who were Scottish as well as English, Irish and danish and I have always wonder what they might be wearing.
Wool can be extremely comfortable undergarments. Can't say how they make them so but I have two 100% wool undersweaters I wore for years working out of doors in winter snow and cold. Very soft against the skin & better than cheap quality modern synthetics (polypropylene) and cotton. The thing is initially I worried about heavy physical activity I would be too hot and then chilled from damp perspiration in breaks. Nope, perfect for both physical activity as well as standing around in the cold.
I've always been a huge fan of wools but had to experience to believe such a fiber against my most tender bits a delight as well. 😊
Before the advent of Lycra cycling clothes, competitive cyclists all wore wool jerseys and shorts
I have only just discovered your channel and I am so happy I have always loved hand sewing but I never knew where to learn. Then I found you! Now I am wondering, what would you suggest is a good project for a first project?
Welcome to the channel! 😊 I would recommend choosing a project you feel passionate towards made up of simple shapes. A lovely pillowcase or a tunic can be a great practice project for getting the hang of stitches. If you like historical fashion then I’d recommend something like a shift or chemise.
The only thing I don't like about your collabs(/j) is that I'm already subscribed to all those wonderful people😆
Ooooo you almost got me there! 🤣 so sweet though, thank you Lilja! I have a lot of future plans with this series so hopefully I’ll introduce some individuals that you haven’t heard of yet 🥰
As someone studying Scottish Gaelic language and culture who occasionally recreates historical Gaelic style garments, this video totally lit up my heart. We even study some of these paintings included in the video in uni! The plaids and their Irish Gaelic connections (from which the folding is sometimes thought to come from), the Celtic connections, & the migration patterns + cultural events of the times is so fascinating, especially since the plaid is so enduring! Thank you for honoring Scottish fashion! I thought to also share that some of the songs in Gaelic also highlight the fashions at any given time as well. For example, a song from the 1500s called 'Bothan Àirigh Am Bràigh Raithneach' includes details of both highland dress and Elizabethan fashions of the lowlands and England too. Anyway, as someone who found your channel whilst making an outfit for my Irish ancestors, I am so grateful to have stumbled upon your work. Many thanks and blessings!
Aww thank you so much Rachel! This is all very heartwarming to read, and I'm so glad that this video lit your heart up. Thank you for the song recommendations as well as I love Celtic music.
this video was wonderfully educational and I was riveted for the entire thing
Thank you so much! That’s the best compliment 😊
Love this! I'm working on a couple of novels and I'm having the damndest time finding out what people wore in Scotland during a specific time period. Everything pulls up English or American.
Glad this is useful! It’s definitely a highly underrepresented fashion culture, which is incredibly tragic.
Some credible historians suggest that the Highlanders were dressed similarly to the Irish up until they started wearing Kilts.
Very interesting!
this was so cool, i love Scottish history
Thanks so much Caroline! 🥰 I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Wow! Very enjoyable and informative, while I knit a gansey fisherman's sweater. Love tartans and kilts. Recently found purchased a good vintage kilt in my clan tartan on ebay.
Aside: Is that a monstera obliqua in the window?
So glad you liked the video! 😊 it does indeed look like a monstera to me, though can’t confirm 😅
Great video! Would you ever consider covering Dutch fashion history? 🌿
Thank you! I’d definitely like to at some point! I want to focus on areas outside of Europe for a bit but Dutch fashion will go on the list too for the future 😊
Thank you so much for this. Such an under researched and known topic. I hope you can expand on this theme maybe Ireland and Wales next? I’m so happy I found your channel I find you a very refreshing costumer. I’ve just been learning to sew during Covid so I am no professional I am no expert but I appreciate this topics you look into go out of mainstream. Which are extremely important and need to be heard.
Aww thank you so much! I definitely have plans to expand even global after this so lots of future episodes to come of underrepresented cultures 😊
It is interesting that in the part of Argyll where I live that Highland dress continued to be worn during Proscription. In the Old Statistical Account for Lochgoilhead and Kilmorich Rev Dugal McDougal states that the ‘inhabitants in general, except those who carry on the fishing, continue to wear the Highland dress, the bonnet, the philabeg, and tartan hose; even
the authority of an act of Parliament, was not sufficient to make them relinquish their ancient garb.’
It was also common for ordinary women in the Highlands to have bare feet and it is something which was often remarked on in the writings of 18th and 19th century tourists to Scotland.
The fake Sobieski brothers who claimed to be the illegitimate heirs of Bonnie Prince Charlie (they were in fact English) were responsible for much of the myth-making around tartan. ‘The brothers' two publications, Vestiarium Scoticum (Edinburgh, 1842) and The Costume of the Clans (Edinburgh, 1845), described by the historian Hugh Trevor-Roper as "shot through with pure fantasy and bare faced forgery", have been sources widely used by the tartan industry in Scotland’
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sobieski_Stuarts
I enjoyed your video.
This was really cool to listen to and watch! I wish you'd covered a bit more of the early 1700's though, instead of jumping straight to the 1740's and beyond :/ I'm trying to work on a very late 1600's to early 1700's style dress and would love to have seen a bit more for that.
Thanks you, that was a very interesting quick dash through the Scottish fashion history - and I think I finally understand the whole tartan it was real it wasn't real debate - Lilja Husmo summed that up very well.
I’m so glad! Thanks for watching 😊
I'm absolutely in love with this series!!!
This is giving me so much knowladge because of this amazing fashion historians you are interviewing. They're awesome and the explanations are really esay to follow and always related to historical event so they make sense!
So glad you love the series! I have many more episodes planned 🥰
Thank you! This was very interesting. I have always been drawn to plaid and it's beautiful colors. I do have some scottish ancestry and that makes it all the more intriguing.
I appreciate all your hard work and presentations!
thanks so much Mel! I completely understand why you’re drawn to plaid. I am as well, it’s such a beautiful pattern.
The stripy wool and linen skirt sounds, interestingly, really similar to the skirts worn in the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands - also stripy linsey-woolsey - except not indigo. 😅 And I think there's something similar going on e.g. in Latvia, too. It's a good example of how some things really do happen simply because of the environment.
To know what the Scottish Gaidheal wore prior to 1600, you must look to Ireland, as the Irish and Scottish Gaedheal wore identical clothing. Prior to the reformation and English interference in the 16th cent. Gaelic Ireland and Gaelic Scotland was one common cultural area. Same language, same customs, same people. This of course was before the era of Victorian tartanalia.
I really enjoyed your video on scottish fashion history Also, as a side note, I have Irish and Scottish DNA ! My Great Grand parents on my fathers side were born in Ireland in the 1840s ! I have Scotch/Irish DNA !! I enjoy your vidoes
This was really interesting! Thanks to both of you! I was already subscribed to Vasi but after seeing Lilja here, I subscribed to her channel as well.
Thank you for doing this unfortunately my grandparents passed away before I was born and they were born and raised in Scotland so I really appreciate this
I’m so sorry for your loss! I’m so glad that this video can perhaps serve as a bit of comfort and deeper understanding of your heritage 😊
Modern tops with the kilt even goes as far as wearing rugby/football tops with the kilt ro game days. 😂
Please note that "Jacobean" and "Jacobite" are two different things and the terms are not to be used interchangeably. Cheers 🙂
This is awesome!!!
Very interesting to see the nuances in Celtic fashion! I'd love to see 500 years of Japanese fashion and Chinese fashion too.
Thanks so much! I’ll definitely be going more global with the series soon 🥰
Yes, that would be enjoyable. The textiles they created are incredible
Personaly would rather see more clothes,and not the two girls as this spoils presentation,and more examples of clothing even if it had been re made as costumes to see fabric types colours and details.
love that you bring on experts on lesser highlighted hisstorical dress! i´d love to see more of that for different regions.
Those ugly hats worn by women look a lot like the sun bonnets worn here when I was a child. My mother wore a sun bonnet to work in the gardens and yard until she died. I still own one; but, I don't wear it.