C clip pliers are what you need especially if you are getting into transmissions. The snap ring style you are using is for a weaker spring and has the holes where c clip do not have holes so the proper pliers have a serrated tooth on the ends to bite the clip.
Thanks for the advice. I wasn't sure what they were called since I've only see a few sets in some transmission build videos Not gonna lie, rebuilding this transmission was a huge pain so I'm not super sure if I'll be doing more, but it was a great experience to have. If I do end up building more, I will 100% be buying some C clip pliers
@@InitialDIYmods they get complicated man. I worked on many from front wheel drives to 18 speeds out of semi and automatic Allison's. Lots of specialty tools. Which sucks as I have medically retired and have 30 grand in tools 95% of techs dont need lol.
I can't even imagine having to buy so many specialty tools. I tend to explore and buy tools as needed (usually harbor freight if possible) but many things I buy have many uses at least. Like the press I've used many times for other stuff after the transmission build. At least regular manuals are simple enough, I've yet to crack open an automatic haha. Maybe when I finally build my wife her V8 Miata I can try my luck with an auto
Amazing video, I love all the concept added in to. It doesn't have to be right, it's just food for thought for anyone with a different set of tools to adapt to. You got my subscription, hope you all are doing well.
Thanks so much mate. I happy to hear you enjoy the techy/concept bits which is usually just me rambling to myself in the garage haha. I'll be sure to keep them in for future videos too
There seems to be no mention of checking the face of the hub and also the gear where they ride against one another. Sometimes when things get wiped out and oil flow is impeded, the gear and hub can gall each other up, thereby ruining parts. I just recently dealt with one that the Evo3 5th had done this. I wasn't happy having to tell the customer their repair bill just went up a couple hundred bucks.
Hey mitsuturbo, great experience to share, I did replace my old hubs assemblies (with the exception of fifth) but I not notice any significant wear on the old ones when looking at them. I did see a lot of teeth wear on the gears (where the slider engages the gears not the gear to gear contact teeth/cogs) to the point that jack's transmission recommended me purchasing new gears which I did (they did not return the old ones so I can't confirm that there was no damage on the hub mating surface). I did not explicitly call out or elaborate on inspecting that particular wear point which is a great piece of information. I'll try to find a place to add that note into the next video where we reassemble the case and I'll highlight your comment in the video. Is there anything else you'd like me to add in the video or would like to see me include about this or anything else? Thanks, Ryan @InitialDIYmods
What was that part called you pressed out the input shaft? At 3:00? I had broke mine somehow pressing it out and my diagram doesn’t show this part, is it input shaft sleeve for 4th gear? Do you have a part number on that
That little peice should be the bearing sleeve which is where the needle bearing rides at the end of the input shaft. The input shaft assembly picture is on page 22A-67 and 22A-68 of the factory service manual (first is for the W5M31 and second is for the W5M33). I couldn't find a part number for it specifically, but maybe one of the dsm transmission shops can help you out. It'll be hard to find on its own though. Check out our patreon for links and more information on service manuals in the shimming transmission post but you should also be able to find it on Google. Hope that helps and sorry to hear something broke
i used a boiler pressure washer to warm up the cases and the races slide in and out no problem until the case cools off a little. other than that its been a nightmare to find new parts
I'm not sure on the bearing part numbers as they have had a few revisions over the last 30 years, but the place I bought them was Jack's transmissions who made it pretty easy to source most the parts. You can also get them from TMZ Performance as well although I didn't personally buy from them when doing this rebuild. I don't think either shop lists out the part numbers explicitly, but it's a good place to start and they're reasonably priced there.
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C clip pliers are what you need especially if you are getting into transmissions. The snap ring style you are using is for a weaker spring and has the holes where c clip do not have holes so the proper pliers have a serrated tooth on the ends to bite the clip.
Thanks for the advice. I wasn't sure what they were called since I've only see a few sets in some transmission build videos
Not gonna lie, rebuilding this transmission was a huge pain so I'm not super sure if I'll be doing more, but it was a great experience to have. If I do end up building more, I will 100% be buying some C clip pliers
@@InitialDIYmods they get complicated man. I worked on many from front wheel drives to 18 speeds out of semi and automatic Allison's. Lots of specialty tools. Which sucks as I have medically retired and have 30 grand in tools 95% of techs dont need lol.
I can't even imagine having to buy so many specialty tools. I tend to explore and buy tools as needed (usually harbor freight if possible) but many things I buy have many uses at least. Like the press I've used many times for other stuff after the transmission build. At least regular manuals are simple enough, I've yet to crack open an automatic haha. Maybe when I finally build my wife her V8 Miata I can try my luck with an auto
@Cannon Cohen It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account!
@Julio Ty Happy to help xD
This series is a great service to anyone who hasnt been in there yet. Nicely done!
Thanks mate 😉👍
Amazing video, I love all the concept added in to. It doesn't have to be right, it's just food for thought for anyone with a different set of tools to adapt to. You got my subscription, hope you all are doing well.
Thanks so much mate. I happy to hear you enjoy the techy/concept bits which is usually just me rambling to myself in the garage haha. I'll be sure to keep them in for future videos too
Awesome thank you!
There seems to be no mention of checking the face of the hub and also the gear where they ride against one another. Sometimes when things get wiped out and oil flow is impeded, the gear and hub can gall each other up, thereby ruining parts. I just recently dealt with one that the Evo3 5th had done this. I wasn't happy having to tell the customer their repair bill just went up a couple hundred bucks.
Hey mitsuturbo, great experience to share, I did replace my old hubs assemblies (with the exception of fifth) but I not notice any significant wear on the old ones when looking at them. I did see a lot of teeth wear on the gears (where the slider engages the gears not the gear to gear contact teeth/cogs) to the point that jack's transmission recommended me purchasing new gears which I did (they did not return the old ones so I can't confirm that there was no damage on the hub mating surface). I did not explicitly call out or elaborate on inspecting that particular wear point which is a great piece of information. I'll try to find a place to add that note into the next video where we reassemble the case and I'll highlight your comment in the video. Is there anything else you'd like me to add in the video or would like to see me include about this or anything else?
Thanks,
Ryan @InitialDIYmods
Thank you for this very informative video!! You helped me out a lot
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it helped!
What was that part called you pressed out the input shaft? At 3:00? I had broke mine somehow pressing it out and my diagram doesn’t show this part, is it input shaft sleeve for 4th gear? Do you have a part number on that
That little peice should be the bearing sleeve which is where the needle bearing rides at the end of the input shaft. The input shaft assembly picture is on page 22A-67 and 22A-68 of the factory service manual (first is for the W5M31 and second is for the W5M33). I couldn't find a part number for it specifically, but maybe one of the dsm transmission shops can help you out. It'll be hard to find on its own though. Check out our patreon for links and more information on service manuals in the shimming transmission post but you should also be able to find it on Google.
Hope that helps and sorry to hear something broke
i used a boiler pressure washer to warm up the cases and the races slide in and out no problem until the case cools off a little. other than that its been a nightmare to find new parts
10/10 BRO
Thanks mate
Hey mate, do you have a list of the bearing part numbers by any chance?
I'm not sure on the bearing part numbers as they have had a few revisions over the last 30 years, but the place I bought them was Jack's transmissions who made it pretty easy to source most the parts. You can also get them from TMZ Performance as well although I didn't personally buy from them when doing this rebuild. I don't think either shop lists out the part numbers explicitly, but it's a good place to start and they're reasonably priced there.
@@InitialDIYmods thanks mate appreciate it
Any chance you have bearing numbers? I had to buy bearings from autozone to rebuild my transfer case
I went to Jack's transmissions and they had most of the parts available. Otherwise, the factory service manual should have the part numbers listed
Lose of power in third gear but when speed up in four and fifth still power will low
I'm not following what you are looking for. Are you looking for a diagnosis of a power issue or a transmission issue?