That sucks if you have that much tapper and out of round on that journal I say go scat crank or stroker 9.5 compression on the street with open chamber heads and later go with aluminum closed chamber heads and you'll pick up compression with out changing pistons.
Thanks Moparnut62! I was starting to think about that, mill vs later endpoint. I am going to measure head volume on these current ones and also look up vs a set of Edelbrock. I heard over 10 gets complicated on a street car, so was thinking of targeting like 10 if I had those. Let me know if that sounds about right. Thanks!!
If you can I'd go stroker if that's what you want "eventually" BUT you could go the machine the crank route and deck the block route as a cheaper fix to build your "1st engine" then a couple years from now when you've pulled all you can out of your motor HP wise and are bored you will have the knowledge to build a stroker motor and feel the difference from a 350ish hp stockish motor to a wow that's what $2k worth of stroker feels like 450-480hp motor. 1. Machine Crank and Deck block 2. From the money you saved from not stroking it GET Aluminium Heads a few months after you get bored of stock heads 3. Couple years later when your bored of that power then spend 2k on stroking the motor and now you have stroked motor and Aluminium Heads Or swap 2 and 3? Waiter way great content for the channel and lots of fun and win win
I have a buddy at a machine shop that told me that even a crank from a stroker kit will need some work balancing and such. I put mine on hold for the moment and was building a 408, so the block was bored and decked. Not sure where I going from here but thinking on a hemi swap so I may have things available. I do have a stock crank but don’t know the 100% the condition other than it was out of a running car.
Hi! Yeah, I think your friend is right. It is recommended to get it balanced for sure. I saw that some of the full rotating assembly kits come prebalanced. I would think that would be close enough, especially with a harmonic dampener. I think either the hemi swap or the 408 would be awesome! Good luck. 😁
Seeing that you are not equipped with the tools to properly measure an engine, I would say, see what the machine shop says after they’ve measured it. And make your decision from there. If you need a crankshaft, yeah may as well do a stroker.
To be honest man, you want long term and stay pump gas. Just mill the deck flat enough no zero decking or have to replace pistons. Stock scat crank and keep your heads. Build the engine mild. Keep the build low buck and spend the extra money some where else. Your not racing and the extra torque will get you what on the street?
@@DustorBust I’ve got to agree with Ninjapumpkin. If you want longevity, I’d get the scat crank, and get it all balanced together. That’s usually 250$ around here. If you go stroker crank, oftentimes they require a different bore diameter vs a cast piston. I’ve seen .060 blocks that were way overbored in a rushed or shotty job. It’s usually recommended that you measure deck height at the center of the pistons to prevent any piston rock from happening. That rock should be minimal anyway. Back to your options: it’s always easier for others to spend your money. I think going the cheaper route and then replacing later could be the best for most people. Think about the number of cars sitting torn down in garages across the country because the plan kept changing. The longer it sits apart, the more likelihood that life happens and you forget where it all goes or lose some stuff in the shuffle. 🙋🏼♂️I’m the first to admit that’s where I’m at ona couple projects 😩
@@JustMoparJoe makes sense, thanks for the perspective buddy! I had not heard about the difference in bore needed between forged and cast pistons. I will look into it more. Thankfully my boring is actually done very well. All within pretty tight tolerance. Thanks!
I am not sure how old you are, but most of us do this kind of stuff so we can feel and act like kids again. It gives us one nonadult thing we can still do. (I am going to make a point here) My best advise when it comes to making decisions like this "what would 16 year old you do with the money and knowledge you have now" so yea stroke that fucker and destroy tires
Well.......sounds like you got it figured out. Now's the time to correct it obviously. Thats why it's important to check your work. Great job amigo!!!
Thanks Iron Horse! I appreciate the support!!👍
That sucks if you have that much tapper and out of round on that journal I say go scat crank or stroker 9.5 compression on the street with open chamber heads and later go with aluminum closed chamber heads and you'll pick up compression with out changing pistons.
Thanks Moparnut62! I was starting to think about that, mill vs later endpoint. I am going to measure head volume on these current ones and also look up vs a set of Edelbrock. I heard over 10 gets complicated on a street car, so was thinking of targeting like 10 if I had those. Let me know if that sounds about right. Thanks!!
If you can I'd go stroker if that's what you want "eventually" BUT you could go the machine the crank route and deck the block route as a cheaper fix to build your "1st engine" then a couple years from now when you've pulled all you can out of your motor HP wise and are bored you will have the knowledge to build a stroker motor and feel the difference from a 350ish hp stockish motor to a wow that's what $2k worth of stroker feels like 450-480hp motor.
1. Machine Crank and Deck block
2. From the money you saved from not stroking it GET Aluminium Heads a few months after you get bored of stock heads
3. Couple years later when your bored of that power then spend 2k on stroking the motor and now you have stroked motor and Aluminium Heads
Or swap 2 and 3? Waiter way great content for the channel and lots of fun and win win
Yeah, that was the original plan but it is hard not to get carried away😜. Thanks for the perspective buddy!
My thoughts exactly. Wish I would have read your comment before I wrote mine. LOL
I have a buddy at a machine shop that told me that even a crank from a stroker kit will need some work balancing and such. I put mine on hold for the moment and was building a 408, so the block was bored and decked. Not sure where I going from here but thinking on a hemi swap so I may have things available. I do have a stock crank but don’t know the 100% the condition other than it was out of a running car.
Hi! Yeah, I think your friend is right. It is recommended to get it balanced for sure. I saw that some of the full rotating assembly kits come prebalanced. I would think that would be close enough, especially with a harmonic dampener. I think either the hemi swap or the 408 would be awesome! Good luck. 😁
Seeing that you are not equipped with the tools to properly measure an engine, I would say, see what the machine shop says after they’ve measured it. And make your decision from there. If you need a crankshaft, yeah may as well do a stroker.
Yup, as much as I want to do most of it myself, sometimes you don't have the right tool. Will get a very accurate read at the shop. 👍
To be honest man, you want long term and stay pump gas. Just mill the deck flat enough no zero decking or have to replace pistons. Stock scat crank and keep your heads. Build the engine mild. Keep the build low buck and spend the extra money some where else. Your not racing and the extra torque will get you what on the street?
You are a wise man Ninjapumpkin! Thanks for the perspective. 👍
@@DustorBust I’ve got to agree with Ninjapumpkin. If you want longevity, I’d get the scat crank, and get it all balanced together. That’s usually 250$ around here. If you go stroker crank, oftentimes they require a different bore diameter vs a cast piston. I’ve seen .060 blocks that were way overbored in a rushed or shotty job. It’s usually recommended that you measure deck height at the center of the pistons to prevent any piston rock from happening. That rock should be minimal anyway.
Back to your options: it’s always easier for others to spend your money. I think going the cheaper route and then replacing later could be the best for most people. Think about the number of cars sitting torn down in garages across the country because the plan kept changing. The longer it sits apart, the more likelihood that life happens and you forget where it all goes or lose some stuff in the shuffle. 🙋🏼♂️I’m the first to admit that’s where I’m at ona couple projects 😩
@@DustorBustdifferent bore needed for forged pistons, not for the crank.(sorry I had to reread that). Ask your machine shop
@@JustMoparJoe makes sense, thanks for the perspective buddy! I had not heard about the difference in bore needed between forged and cast pistons. I will look into it more. Thankfully my boring is actually done very well. All within pretty tight tolerance. Thanks!
A competent machine shop should be able to machine that crankshaft.
Hey Garry, yeah the shop was able to sort it out so did not have to go a more expensive route. Keep it simple where possible. Thanks for watching. 👍
I am not sure how old you are, but most of us do this kind of stuff so we can feel and act like kids again. It gives us one nonadult thing we can still do. (I am going to make a point here) My best advise when it comes to making decisions like this "what would 16 year old you do with the money and knowledge you have now" so yea stroke that fucker and destroy tires
😂 lol. Love it! Point taken. I am 37, but have enough responsibility to appreciate this concept. Thanks!👍
I’ve got a hot 318 for sale
It's important to me to use the original block, but I appreciate the offer!👍
Right on man! Btw I like what you did with the dash, I doing something similar in my duster
@@danwinfree7120 Thanks Dan! The Dash was a little more work than I planned, but I am pretty happy at how it came out. Thanks for following along!😃