With rifle armor you need a medium to break up the projectile such as ceramics, metal or other, then use the soft material to catch the fragments. I’m sure you know that though!
Very nice. I'd be interested to see what having a hard baker on it might change. Would it reduce back-face deformation, or would restricting the movement of the PE cause the bullet to act like a paper-punch and let out go through? Did you say where you bought the material? I'd like to do a couple of experiments of my own.
I’ll be doing an additional test utilizing the hard pressed UHMWPE. From what I’ve seen, it should drop back-face deformation. I acquired the material from Alibaba (160 gsm UHMWPE).
In your opinion, is it better to create a steel plate, such as a 1/5 of an inch, and then put this material on the back, or it should be better to put the material on the front of the steel plate?
@@3RBallistics Thank you; I've been looking for a supplier for UHMWPE for testing. Great video dude, would love to see you shoot at a solid sheet 1/4, 1/2 inch thick sheet of this material.
On alibaba I´m seeing some good deals but I would need to purchase 10 or 100 minimum. Is there a specific seller I can find that doesn´t require such a large order?
My rule of thumb is, if the backer can stop 9mm by itself it can stop 556 or 7.62 with a ceramic strikeface.... In theory 12 layers plus ceramic should be sufficient. Whered you get your UHPE fabric? Have you tried solid uhpe?
The UHMWPE came from Alibaba. I have tried solid UHPE and plan to utilize it in an upcoming project. However solid UHPE doesn’t stop projectile’s the same as the fabric.
Slightly different application, but.. do you think that will it be suitable as an additional layer under an inflatable mattress, which should protect against punctures by an acacia thorn, a cactus or a needle? How many layers would this need?
How much does that stuff cost? I’m working on my own project making a riot shield that has a good ballistic protection to lowest weight possible ratio using 3/8” aluminum plating…how much would you recommend to add to the plate or do you think reinforcing it with steel would be better
The cost really depends on how thick you want the material which is dependent on what rounds you are trying to stop. I believe I purchased it for about $35 a square yard. As far as the shield, I would use UHMWPE for the weight savings. Even though it’s going to cost more to build, I believe it’s worth the added cost for how much weight you would take off.
the plastic itself is resistant to uv. sometimes resins/adhesives are not that might be used in its construction/bonding. wish someone would try buying ceramic aggragate/garnet for water cutters and sprinkeling some over uhmwpe
@@justinw1765 it sticks to itself pretty easily if you go over it with a clothes iron between two wax paper sheets. im guessing it would bond okay to arimid this way. not sure how other mfg are doing it. maybe theyre not? or just wraping the arimid tightly around front and back and gluing? pretty sure those brands like safelife's hyperline is bonded somehow to the arimid in the back.
Ive seen a lot of videos about everyday items being used to create armor. Im curious what happens if you start layering multiple different materials. like a layer of steel, then plastic, then fiber. Does that become a system where the its better than the sum of all the parts or is it worse than just using one material.
I have a few other videos layering multiple different materials. I will have a video up next month detailing something similar to what you are talking about.
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With rifle armor you need a medium to break up the projectile such as ceramics, metal or other, then use the soft material to catch the fragments. I’m sure you know that though!
Nice idea to use clay to test back face deformation!
BTTWPES are also good for stopping bullets, or at least slowing them down. Especially the big fat ones. You can find them on most any street corner 😉
could you retry shooting the 24 layers sample by adding a 3/16 mild steel strike face in front of it, and shooting that with 7.62x39FMJ and 5.56 FMJ?
Sure.
@@3RBallistics thanks!
Very nice. I'd be interested to see what having a hard baker on it might change. Would it reduce back-face deformation, or would restricting the movement of the PE cause the bullet to act like a paper-punch and let out go through?
Did you say where you bought the material? I'd like to do a couple of experiments of my own.
I’ll be doing an additional test utilizing the hard pressed UHMWPE. From what I’ve seen, it should drop back-face deformation.
I acquired the material from Alibaba (160 gsm UHMWPE).
I think you carry out a very professional test. If I sent some test pieces would you be able to test them for me? How do I get in contact with you?
Sure, You can reach me on instagrams messenger. @3RBallistics. It doesn’t have much content but messages are active.
Thanks @@3RBallistics
In your opinion, is it better to create a steel plate, such as a 1/5 of an inch, and then put this material on the back, or it should be better to put the material on the front of the steel plate?
At that thickness I would put it on both sides of the plate. It’s thin enough to not hinder the performance of the Polyethylene
@@3RBallistics Thank you. You know, I was dreaming of a tactical shield, non so big to become unusable. I think it can be done
Where did you find a supplier for this material?
eBay is one source, just make sure it’s ballistically rated.
@@3RBallistics Thank you; I've been looking for a supplier for UHMWPE for testing. Great video dude, would love to see you shoot at a solid sheet 1/4, 1/2 inch thick sheet of this material.
Amigo ,que es mejor ,el kevlar o éste material ?
Would be perfect for inside a car door
On alibaba I´m seeing some good deals but I would need to purchase 10 or 100 minimum. Is there a specific seller I can find that doesn´t require such a large order?
Small quantities can be found on eBay from Magnus Synthesys
My rule of thumb is, if the backer can stop 9mm by itself it can stop 556 or 7.62 with a ceramic strikeface....
In theory 12 layers plus ceramic should be sufficient.
Whered you get your UHPE fabric? Have you tried solid uhpe?
The UHMWPE came from Alibaba. I have tried solid UHPE and plan to utilize it in an upcoming project. However solid UHPE doesn’t stop projectile’s the same as the fabric.
and greediness charge you $800+ for a factory made bulletproof with same material.I made mine front and back armor for less than 200.
24 layers and 2 pei lvl 5 ceramic 12x12s and youre cooking with minimally 3+rating
It is not good quality of uhmwpe
Thanks for sharing your testing with us!
Slightly different application, but.. do you think that will it be suitable as an additional layer under an inflatable mattress, which should protect against punctures by an acacia thorn, a cactus or a needle? How many layers would this need?
What distance are you shooting from?
15 yards
I think u should shave ur moustache it will look cool
Where are you located? Looks like Nevada?
How much does that stuff cost? I’m working on my own project making a riot shield that has a good ballistic protection to lowest weight possible ratio using 3/8” aluminum plating…how much would you recommend to add to the plate or do you think reinforcing it with steel would be better
The cost really depends on how thick you want the material which is dependent on what rounds you are trying to stop. I believe I purchased it for about $35 a square yard.
As far as the shield, I would use UHMWPE for the weight savings. Even though it’s going to cost more to build, I believe it’s worth the added cost for how much weight you would take off.
💯💯💯👍
the plastic itself is resistant to uv. sometimes resins/adhesives are not that might be used in its construction/bonding. wish someone would try buying ceramic aggragate/garnet for water cutters and sprinkeling some over uhmwpe
Nothing sticks/bonds well to UHMWPE--the surface energy is almost as low as PTFE (teflon).
@@justinw1765 it sticks to itself pretty easily if you go over it with a clothes iron between two wax paper sheets. im guessing it would bond okay to arimid this way. not sure how other mfg are doing it. maybe theyre not? or just wraping the arimid tightly around front and back and gluing? pretty sure those brands like safelife's hyperline is bonded somehow to the arimid in the back.
Ive seen a lot of videos about everyday items being used to create armor. Im curious what happens if you start layering multiple different materials. like a layer of steel, then plastic, then fiber. Does that become a system where the its better than the sum of all the parts or is it worse than just using one material.
I have a few other videos layering multiple different materials. I will have a video up next month detailing something similar to what you are talking about.
@@3RBallistics Ill look forward to that
It would be better.I made mine with this on the inside and stab/slash proof fiber on the outer layer.