Another use of this would be for armoring vehicles. Things like seat backs and such. Where concerns about weight and bulk are important, but not quite as critical as personal armor.
Sharpining stones are silicon carbide, I was thinking about buying a case of them from China to see how they work...pocket stones are only 1/2 thick, with a fiber backer I think it would work well
Would it be feasible to have the tiles inlaid flush into a steel grid framework? Where the steel would maybe provide some reinforcement at the edges of the tiles? Or would that reduce energy dispersion and tile durability?
Would like to see the same or similar test repeated with a fiberglass and thinner tile plate. Maybe 1/4" cermic tile. Coat over the entire plate with a roll on bed liner to increase its resilience and multi-hit capability possibly as well.
Ive done it. 5mm doesn't stop much. 10mm stops 7.62x39 and 556. Im not a fan of bedliner. I just wrap one more layer of fiberglass over the strike face and glue both sides, so that it contains the ceramic.
@@evansaw293English is not my first language bro but do you mean literally one layer of cut woven roving fiberglass or do you mean another fiberglass plate? Thank you in advance!
Steel should be the back plate. Lexan, kevlar, and other velocity reducers, should be the first hit. Even things like paper armor, slow the velocity down, to make the projectiles, less likely to penetrate the steel. The steel scrapnel, adds to the bullet's penetration.
Do you think half inch porcelain tile (front) and 3/8th inch mild steel (backing) would stop rifle rounds certainly? What two materials combined guarantee a rifle rating.
steel would be too weak and heavy for a plate with a lot of heavy tile already. Also the tile does the bulk of the work by absorbing all of the kinetic energy from the bullet.
@@srj6963wrapped in fiberglass, certainly. Physics is cool but depending on your weight/thickness preference and tolerance, you can adjust as you see fit to make yourself more comfortable. If I'm worried about rifle rounds coming at me, I don't mind a little thicker plate 😂 You want thicker steel than ceramic though generally speaking. That's why things like HDPE are catching attention cuz they help with weight and are incredibly strong.
Do you not know about backface deformation? And seriously, kevlar and lexan on front? Are you out of your gourd? Your setup will just make the steel spall into you or deform to break a few ribs or give a nasty half torso bruise. Steel makes more sense as the outer strike plate because it can block higher calibers than kevlar or lexan. The kevlar and lexan work for lower calibers or bullets that been slowed down enough by the steel. Lexan and kevlar are not sufficient as a trauma pad, but they would be a hell of a lot better at cushioning the rib breaking blunt force trauma from blocking a bullet.
Do you use the press method, or the vacuum bag? I am disabled, and have a power chair. There's a large pocket, across the back of the seat. I would like to cover my entire back and head area. Weight isn't important, because I won't be carrying the weight.
This is exactly what i wanted to do with tile, but put it over the regular steel 3+ plates maybe with kevlar tarp and resin between but that'd probably be kinda heavy
Awesome job! A lot of diy plate vids are relatively half assed. I'd love to see you continuing to experiment. I'd be interested in seeing what areas you scaled back on for cost purposes and would otherwise get better performance or weight. Awesome stuff though
The fact that that heavily compromized plate continued to block such heavy rounds is rediculous in an awesome way. Definitely gonna replicate. Hopefully they fit in the carrier I ordered. Big ol' juggernaught style one. Its gona be really heavy.
Yeah i made the same plates with Multiple layers of Mesh backed Wall Tiles, Resin & Fiberglass Welding blanket for s&g. I coated the front of the tile with multiple layers of Resin and fiberglass and then sealed everything in with multiple coats of Rhino Lining and it actually stop’s multiple hits of .308 & 5.56 M-855 as long as its not in a compromised spot. But it will stop 2 shots of regular 5.56 FMJ in the same spot. I had absolutely ZERO SPLASH or SPALLING even on edge shots. Took it apart and all pieces were stopped by the fiberglass and didn’t even make it to the coating. It’s actually not to much heavier than a Tacticon Steel Plate. So yes your idea is absolutely spot on and imo 100% necessary to make a safe and effective plate.
I think your demo showed the single thick tile is a design flaw, as bullets could slip through the gaps between tiles. I think layering 3-4 smaller non-glazed honeycomb pattern tiles where each layer covers a seam could be the way to go. I wonder too if trying other materials (dense rubber or plastics) layered in-between might not soften the blow and disperse some of the bullet's force to help prevent tiles from disintegration which compromises its integrity and longevity? Maybe a more flexible bonding agent on the backside of the tiles to keep them from dustification?
Bingo! I've always wondered about different combinations of materials and what would make the optimum homemade plate. Seeingbas i have 30 other unfinished projects, im glad other people are doing it
thick tile, huh? what about layers of thin tiles alternating with layers of your fiberglass sheets? or ceramic ballbearing layers suspended in... something?
Now that sounds interesting. I have something similar I’m trying but not in a fiberglass matrix. I believe fiberglass might be better suited for something like a modified strike face.
for the steel-aramid hybrid, i think there isn't enough material simply. (either the steel would need to reach 3/16 instead of 1/8, or the aramid would need to be tripled)
Porcelain or silicone carbide tiles are the better options for blocking bullets. They have lower density than regular ceramics making them lighter stronger alternative.
Here is what i think, the fiber glass layered with plastic would probably be the cheapest and most likely to be the best weight and ability to stop rifle bullets. Also, if your going to do this get sensors so you can show amount of force transfer. I mean the concussions force from a bullet could still kill someone.
This is just for entertainment but the clay backing should give a representation of blunt force for reference. I’ll look to see if force transfer sensors are a viable option as well.
Haven't watched yet, but interested in how thin layers compare to thick with 2 thin with a rubber spacer layer vs single equal thick tile. Its the fracture energy of ceramic not jusy hardness. Also front layer should have some ply (kevlar?) to hold the ceramic better.
Good job with the thick porcelain plate! Would have been interesting to see if the 1/8inch AR500 steel with 24 layers of K29 kevlar would have stopped m855
Its how you make the cement and what you put in and the dry time some times it takes awhile like a week so rebar needs to be there and different things like helix steel in the cement
Yes, I have a video going over the process of mixing GFRC in another video. I’m almost done letting the next round of concrete cure for the next tests. This one will really show the importance of w/c ratios, additives and reinforcement materials.
Interesting, in aviation we use a process on composit construction, and repairs, called vacuum bagging. Which is simply pulling a vacuum around a mold, which is covered with a heavy duty plastic bag, this forces the resin into matting, woven roving, or even carbon fiber, Meaning no air bubbles are able to form. You might do a little resurch into this very simple process. Aircraft repair books, you can find on line, cheap, like e bay. Every body makes armor in the approximate same shape, what about armor shapes, that help to deflect bullets? I also see nothing to deflect shrapnel away from the neck area, a copper bullet jacket, moving at 2500 feet per second is enough to almost decapitate someone. A few years back there was an armor called dragon skin I believe. Small ceramic plates were arranged like scales on a dragon one overlapping, and helping to protect the next, and so on just my thoughts! Best of luck!
I hope you get the chance either through funding or maybe a collab with someone to be able to do a ballistics gel torso test with these plates. Could be interesting to see what damage the rounds would do after going through because even if the plate doesn't stop them, it might disperse enough energy to be stopped by just the muscle or skin behind it.
That’s would be nice. For now, I’m planning on making my own torso mold and see how it works. Maybe I’ll make a video of the process because it might work but also might fail.
"Armour nylon-resin modules" as an insert into car doors or inside located plate in the shape of the driver's silhouette? I suggest adding a ballistic bucket seat to the previous one. Just some ideas. Cool vids. Greetings from Poland. ;)
You should have used porcelain tiles which are more impact resistant which means you can use less tile for the same bullet resistance and save in weight apparently.
@@JewsRock-ILJ true. However, finding silicon carbide tile is nearly impossible and very expensive. Alumina oxide is probably the best choice for both price and availability. Luckily, I’ve been able to test all of these strike face materials which should be somewhere in my video library.
You might look into Smooth On's Smooth Cast Onyx resin. I was using it for something and I was thinking how different from other resins it is. It may just shatter with a high speed round, IDK. In trying to shape that Onyx with a die grinder bit with what is basically very course, metal file type teeth, and spinning at 1500 or 2000 RPM, it felt like it removed material slower than aluminum, maybe closer to a mild steel or cast iron. Even then the resin would grab and gum up the die grinder bit more than any melting resin or plastic. So I thought it might be effective for this, especially if used with carbon fiber or fiberglass mat to make a micarta type of stuff. It's black already and it has a built in spalling grabber. If nothing else I'm pretty sure it would work well for that, like the Rhino Liner they use on production armor plate. It's different from any resin I've played with, that's for sure. Anyway, just a thought.
I think I’ll try this. I’m wrapping up a project with bed liner and this might make a good comparison video. I have some smooth cast 300 I was going to use but can substitute in onyx resin.
@3RBallistics I noticed on a couple trys with that Onyx it set differently than usual. Like it got hotter and once set it was closer to a glass than a plastic. I don't know what the hell I'm doing so I don't know what I did. In that case the Onyx would chip out just like glass. All the other times it came out like those old hard rubber 1911 grips. Hard to describe. SmoothOn also has some industrial resin impregnated with aluminum with high temp capabilities and strong enough for tool fixtures, metal forms, and actual mechanical parts. 655 I think? Don't know anything about it really. It's probably stupid expensive but it sounds like fun. I'll be watching for future videos. Good luck!
I added a little glass fiber reinforcement. I also used a little steel fiber reinforcement. I’m thinking is was just to weak of a concrete mixture. I have more on the concrete mixtures in a video next month.
@@jim8228 I have tested carbon fiber panels thick and as a hybrid with Kevlar and unfortunately it’s not much better than paper and at its price it doesn’t really make it a viable alternative.
Wait why not just do double or triple the layers of fiberglass? For example, the resin tiles could be stronger if they were fiberglass+resin tiles, right?
Thats true. I was just trying to keep the weight down as much as possible. However, I may need to re-build these plates and do another test with more fiberglass reinforcement.
@@3RBallistics I would imagine the fiberglass composite is less dense than ceramics or concrete. Probably similarly dense to the epoxy on its own? I'm not sure. I would suspect that if you made a plate that was just fiberglass that was the same thickness as the plates with concrete or ceramic tile, the weight would be a bit less and the strength might be comparable. It might be worth testing different plates holding thickness or weight constant to see which combination of fiberglass thickness and various other layers proves the strongest and/or lightest
@@3RBallistics Totally in agreement here, and efficiency is key: lowest weight that gets the work done, keeps the attacked safe(r) and mobile. That said, if a lower weight is allowing a fatal bullet entrance to a vital organ, then a bit/more heavier protection would hands-down be preferred. ;)
You have to mix it into the water don't try to mix it into the powder because that takes an enormous amount of mixing to get a homogeneous mixture so you add the graphene to the water and mix it thoroughly and then add the water to the concrete mixture. You'll get a homogeneous mixture of the graphene into the concrete which should increase the strength by 25% depending on how much graphene you add and the quality of the graphene.
@@evansaw293Interesting! What is your plate made of? 25 layers of 18oz / yard² (610g/m²) fiberglass and a 7,5mm (1/7 inch) plate of porcelain? And this is enough to stop 5.56?
You might try 1" hexagonal 1/4" thick granite counter tile matrix in a double layer held together with a rubberized mastic compound. The granite is much harder than common ceramics and a double layer that is off set on the joints maximizes protection. The only thing better would be an advanced ceramic like Boron Carbide, whic is expensive
While granite is one of the hardest natural stones, it still falls a little short of even store bought porcelain tile in terms of hardness. The other problem is granite has a very weak fracture point. Initial projectile impact propagates cracks faster than the movement of the projectile. All that being said, I’ve still tested granite and marble just because I had samples of them and I will say granite is much better at slowing down and breaking up projectiles than marble.
@@3RBallistics I used to be a CNC srone router peogrammer and operator and have cut both, so I know their properties. Granite is hard and durable, especially the darker varieties. But marble is soft crap; pretty, but pourous and lacking strength
@@hardstylelife5749 yes, I’ve tested polycarbonate extensively. Almost every homemade bullet resistant glass videos I have contains some polycarbonate in them. Here’s a link to one of the videos ruclips.net/video/Grc7tg3B1iU/видео.htmlsi=jNnhEJePVFMDLz_N
The best design from the test was the tile and fiberglass plate. It successfully stopped 7.62x39, 5.56, and 7.62x51 (.308) rounds. This combination proved to be the most effective in terms of stopping power, outperforming the other designs made from fiberglass and resin, as well as concrete. The tile and fiberglass plate's ability to handle multiple hits and high-velocity rounds made it the most robust and reliable option tested. In the RUclips video, the creator tests homemade Level III rifle-rated body armor plates made from fiberglass, tile, concrete, and resin. The fiberglass and resin plate failed against 7.62x39 and 5.56 rounds. The concrete plate also failed. The tile and fiberglass plate successfully stopped 7.62x39, 5.56, and even 7.62x51 (.308), but failed against 30-06 and armor-piercing rounds. The AR500 steel plate with Kevlar backer was also tested, but results were inconclusive due to previous damage. The video concludes with plans for future bulletproof glass testing and collaborations. The tile and fiberglass plate was constructed using the following method: 1. **Materials Used**: - **Fiberglass**: 18-ounce woven roving fiberglass. - **Tile**: Thick porcelain tile. 2. **Construction Process**: - **Layers**: 25 layers of the woven roving fiberglass were pressed together. - **Size**: The resulting plate measured 10 by 12 inches with a Shooters cut. - **Tile Placement**: The tile was cut into shapes and placed in front of the fiberglass layers to allow for multiple hits. This combination of materials and construction method provided effective protection against various high-velocity rounds. To estimate the weight of the tile and fiberglass plate, we'll break down the components: ### Materials: 1. **Fiberglass Layers**: - **25 layers** of 18-ounce woven roving fiberglass. - **Weight per layer**: 18 ounces (1.125 pounds). - **Total weight for fiberglass**: \( 25 \times 1.125 = 28.125 \) pounds. 2. **Porcelain Tile**: - **Assumed size**: Standard 10 by 12 inches. - **Estimated weight**: Porcelain tile thickness and density can vary, but a 12x12 inch tile typically weighs around 3-5 pounds. ### Total Estimated Weight: - **Fiberglass**: 28.125 pounds. - **Tile**: Approximately 4 pounds (average of the typical weight range). ### Combined Weight: - **Total weight**: \( 28.125 + 4 = 32.125 \) pounds. This estimate suggests that the plate would be quite heavy, around 32 pounds. This is considerably heavier than typical body armor plates, which are designed to balance protection with weight.
Just a suggestion...instead of making a body armor with a FLAT FACE, why not create a plate with a bunch of low, or high profile PYRAMID shapes on its face? I realize that this would be more difficult to manufacture, but I'm thinking that it would definitely redirect the striaght forward, direct energy of the projectile into a more sideways direction. Now the BIG unknown is, where would the projectile get directed to? Into a foot, a face, etc? Which would of course not be a good outcome, and confirm that this design would be a complete fail. Don't know until you try though.
@@3RBallistics I realize what you're saying. I basically said the same thing in my original post. Upon further thought however, it might be worth considering maybe a full "V" shaped plate instead of smaller individual pyramids. The ridge of the "V", the thickest part, running parralell, from upper chest down to belly, and slanting backwards around the rib cage area. That will at least have some deflective qualities I believe. Again though...where would the deflected projectile end up? In an arm possibly? Again, not an ideal outcome. The whole concept needs to be tested to truly answer that question.
@@BuckleUpPansies agreed 👍. I might make both plates just to see the difference in deflection. I’d have to cook up some ballistic gel or something to catch the fragmentation.
@@3RBallistics Game on my friend. Interested to see what the melding of our collective talents produces. 🤓🤓 Will be watching your channel to follow your progress. Good luck! 🤞🤞🤞
And how’s that? Many current rifle rated body armor plates use ceramic pieces instead of a single ceramic piece for the strike face. Granted, the gaps on these homemade ones will be slightly larger than commercially available ones but still smaller than allowed by most manufacturers.
08:16 "...step it up to 7.62 by 51 M80, full metal jacket .308." Huh? 7.62 and .308 are NOT the same, amigo. You know that, right? I hope? Just...yikes.
😆 Yes hombre, there are very very minor differences, like case pressures. I also know the .308 Winchester measures 7.62x51 per SAMI specs, wait what!? Please enlighten me on which .308 round is used by NATO? Or better yet, which is the best penetrating .308 round? The fact remains the bi-metal M80 is better at penetrating performance than any .308 Win factory load out there. And in case you were confused, the same exact dimensional bullet comes out of both which is what I was referring to in the video.
Clearly you do not know how the materials work on a molecular level. Put the thick tile in front of the AR500 and wrap it inside the Kevlar or Nylon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DUH.
Another use of this would be for armoring vehicles. Things like seat backs and such. Where concerns about weight and bulk are important, but not quite as critical as personal armor.
Awesome stuff! Your tile plate is pretty much the apex of what you can do with thoes materials.
Sharpining stones are silicon carbide, I was thinking about buying a case of them from China to see how they work...pocket stones are only 1/2 thick, with a fiber backer I think it would work well
for the concrete you could add glass fibre or similar strains into the mix.
We do use A/R glass fiber as well as HD glass fiber in a low 2% dosage.
Would it be feasible to have the tiles inlaid flush into a steel grid framework? Where the steel would maybe provide some reinforcement at the edges of the tiles? Or would that reduce energy dispersion and tile durability?
Would like to see the same or similar test repeated with a fiberglass and thinner tile plate. Maybe 1/4" cermic tile. Coat over the entire plate with a roll on bed liner to increase its resilience and multi-hit capability possibly as well.
Ive done it. 5mm doesn't stop much. 10mm stops 7.62x39 and 556. Im not a fan of bedliner. I just wrap one more layer of fiberglass over the strike face and glue both sides, so that it contains the ceramic.
@@evansaw293 thanks for the info
@@evansaw293English is not my first language bro but do you mean literally one layer of cut woven roving fiberglass or do you mean another fiberglass plate? Thank you in advance!
@@thewakandaconnection3743 one layer of fiberglass. Just to hold it all together. It doesn't add to ballistic preformance
@@evansaw293legend! Thanks for the fast reply👊🏽
Great work, thanks for sharing your journey!
Steel should be the back plate. Lexan, kevlar, and other velocity reducers, should be the first hit. Even things like paper armor, slow the velocity down, to make the projectiles, less likely to penetrate the steel. The steel scrapnel, adds to the bullet's penetration.
Do you think half inch porcelain tile (front) and 3/8th inch mild steel (backing) would stop rifle rounds certainly?
What two materials combined guarantee a rifle rating.
steel would be too weak and heavy for a plate with a lot of heavy tile already. Also the tile does the bulk of the work by absorbing all of the kinetic energy from the bullet.
@@srj6963wrapped in fiberglass, certainly. Physics is cool but depending on your weight/thickness preference and tolerance, you can adjust as you see fit to make yourself more comfortable. If I'm worried about rifle rounds coming at me, I don't mind a little thicker plate 😂
You want thicker steel than ceramic though generally speaking. That's why things like HDPE are catching attention cuz they help with weight and are incredibly strong.
That's what I made my plates out of and they are probably 20 ish pounds each but I'm sure they can stop anything short of black tip
Do you not know about backface deformation? And seriously, kevlar and lexan on front? Are you out of your gourd?
Your setup will just make the steel spall into you or deform to break a few ribs or give a nasty half torso bruise. Steel makes more sense as the outer strike plate because it can block higher calibers than kevlar or lexan. The kevlar and lexan work for lower calibers or bullets that been slowed down enough by the steel. Lexan and kevlar are not sufficient as a trauma pad, but they would be a hell of a lot better at cushioning the rib breaking blunt force trauma from blocking a bullet.
Do you use the press method, or the vacuum bag? I am disabled, and have a power chair. There's a large pocket, across the back of the seat. I would like to cover my entire back and head area. Weight isn't important, because I won't be carrying the weight.
I used the press method.
This is exactly what i wanted to do with tile, but put it over the regular steel 3+ plates maybe with kevlar tarp and resin between but that'd probably be kinda heavy
GRREAT piece here. Awesome work @3RBallistics.
Awesome job! A lot of diy plate vids are relatively half assed. I'd love to see you continuing to experiment. I'd be interested in seeing what areas you scaled back on for cost purposes and would otherwise get better performance or weight. Awesome stuff though
Yeah, I’m missing the conclusion. What is the best, at what cost price
slowing down the velocity of the round I believe is the #1 concern
The fact that that heavily compromized plate continued to block such heavy rounds is rediculous in an awesome way. Definitely gonna replicate. Hopefully they fit in the carrier I ordered. Big ol' juggernaught style one. Its gona be really heavy.
Now add 3-4 layers of fiberglass in the outside so you don’t go blind 😂
Well I'd just plasti-dip it or spray liberally with flex seal
Yeah i made the same plates with Multiple layers of Mesh backed Wall Tiles, Resin & Fiberglass Welding blanket for s&g. I coated the front of the tile with multiple layers of Resin and fiberglass and then sealed everything in with multiple coats of Rhino Lining and it actually stop’s multiple hits of .308 & 5.56 M-855 as long as its not in a compromised spot. But it will stop 2 shots of regular 5.56 FMJ in the same spot. I had absolutely ZERO SPLASH or SPALLING even on edge shots. Took it apart and all pieces were stopped by the fiberglass and didn’t even make it to the coating. It’s actually not to much heavier than a Tacticon Steel Plate. So yes your idea is absolutely spot on and imo 100% necessary to make a safe and effective plate.
can you show a video plz, your method looks like its gonna work better in paper.@@JoeyOutlaw
Yeah I was gonna say linex or flex seal.
Right? That Spalding would mess up your day
I think your demo showed the single thick tile is a design flaw, as bullets could slip through the gaps between tiles. I think layering 3-4 smaller non-glazed honeycomb pattern tiles where each layer covers a seam could be the way to go. I wonder too if trying other materials (dense rubber or plastics) layered in-between might not soften the blow and disperse some of the bullet's force to help prevent tiles from disintegration which compromises its integrity and longevity? Maybe a more flexible bonding agent on the backside of the tiles to keep them from dustification?
Bingo! I've always wondered about different combinations of materials and what would make the optimum homemade plate. Seeingbas i have 30 other unfinished projects, im glad other people are doing it
thick tile, huh? what about layers of thin tiles alternating with layers of your fiberglass sheets?
or ceramic ballbearing layers suspended in... something?
Now that sounds interesting. I have something similar I’m trying but not in a fiberglass matrix. I believe fiberglass might be better suited for something like a modified strike face.
for the steel-aramid hybrid, i think there isn't enough material simply. (either the steel would need to reach 3/16 instead of 1/8, or the aramid would need to be tripled)
Porcelain or silicone carbide tiles are the better options for blocking bullets. They have lower density than regular ceramics making them lighter stronger alternative.
@@JewsRock-ILJ the tile used was porcelain.
Here is what i think, the fiber glass layered with plastic would probably be the cheapest and most likely to be the best weight and ability to stop rifle bullets. Also, if your going to do this get sensors so you can show amount of force transfer. I mean the concussions force from a bullet could still kill someone.
This is just for entertainment but the clay backing should give a representation of blunt force for reference. I’ll look to see if force transfer sensors are a viable option as well.
Haven't watched yet, but interested in how thin layers compare to thick with 2 thin with a rubber spacer layer vs single equal thick tile. Its the fracture energy of ceramic not jusy hardness. Also front layer should have some ply (kevlar?) to hold the ceramic better.
Good job with the thick porcelain plate!
Would have been interesting to see if the 1/8inch AR500 steel with 24 layers of K29 kevlar would have stopped m855
Wish the last plate was turned around and tested with the kevlar in the front and the steel in the back.
You’re doing exactly what I wish I could do. Thanks for doing it.
Its how you make the cement and what you put in and the dry time some times it takes awhile like a week so rebar needs to be there and different things like helix steel in the cement
Yes, I have a video going over the process of mixing GFRC in another video. I’m almost done letting the next round of concrete cure for the next tests. This one will really show the importance of w/c ratios, additives and reinforcement materials.
@@3RBallistics very cool
Interesting, in aviation we use a process on composit construction, and repairs, called vacuum bagging.
Which is simply pulling a vacuum around a mold, which is covered with a heavy duty plastic bag, this forces the resin into matting, woven roving, or even carbon fiber,
Meaning no air bubbles are able to form. You might do a little resurch into this very simple process. Aircraft repair books, you can find on line, cheap, like e bay.
Every body makes armor in the approximate same shape, what about armor shapes, that help to deflect bullets?
I also see nothing to deflect shrapnel away from the neck area, a copper bullet jacket, moving at 2500 feet per second is enough to almost decapitate someone.
A few years back there was an armor called dragon skin I believe.
Small ceramic plates were arranged like scales on a dragon one overlapping, and helping to protect the next, and so on just my thoughts! Best of luck!
Aluminum plate, to deform. Tile to slow and fragment. Steel to catch the rest. Maybe
I hope you get the chance either through funding or maybe a collab with someone to be able to do a ballistics gel torso test with these plates. Could be interesting to see what damage the rounds would do after going through because even if the plate doesn't stop them, it might disperse enough energy to be stopped by just the muscle or skin behind it.
That’s would be nice. For now, I’m planning on making my own torso mold and see how it works. Maybe I’ll make a video of the process because it might work but also might fail.
"Armour nylon-resin modules" as an insert into car doors or inside located plate in the shape of the driver's silhouette? I suggest adding a ballistic bucket seat to the previous one. Just some ideas. Cool vids. Greetings from Poland. ;)
You should have used porcelain tiles which are more impact resistant which means you can use less tile for the same bullet resistance and save in weight apparently.
@@JewsRock-ILJ thank you. I did use porcelain tile.
@@3RBallistics porcelain seems to be less dense than silicone carbide but it may be weaker
@@JewsRock-ILJ true. However, finding silicon carbide tile is nearly impossible and very expensive. Alumina oxide is probably the best choice for both price and availability. Luckily, I’ve been able to test all of these strike face materials which should be somewhere in my video library.
You might look into Smooth On's Smooth Cast Onyx resin. I was using it for something and I was thinking how different from other resins it is. It may just shatter with a high speed round, IDK. In trying to shape that Onyx with a die grinder bit with what is basically very course, metal file type teeth, and spinning at 1500 or 2000 RPM, it felt like it removed material slower than aluminum, maybe closer to a mild steel or cast iron. Even then the resin would grab and gum up the die grinder bit more than any melting resin or plastic. So I thought it might be effective for this, especially if used with carbon fiber or fiberglass mat to make a micarta type of stuff. It's black already and it has a built in spalling grabber. If nothing else I'm pretty sure it would work well for that, like the Rhino Liner they use on production armor plate. It's different from any resin I've played with, that's for sure. Anyway, just a thought.
I think I’ll try this. I’m wrapping up a project with bed liner and this might make a good comparison video. I have some smooth cast 300 I was going to use but can substitute in onyx resin.
@3RBallistics I noticed on a couple trys with that Onyx it set differently than usual. Like it got hotter and once set it was closer to a glass than a plastic. I don't know what the hell I'm doing so I don't know what I did. In that case the Onyx would chip out just like glass. All the other times it came out like those old hard rubber 1911 grips. Hard to describe. SmoothOn also has some industrial resin impregnated with aluminum with high temp capabilities and strong enough for tool fixtures, metal forms, and actual mechanical parts. 655 I think? Don't know anything about it really. It's probably stupid expensive but it sounds like fun.
I'll be watching for future videos. Good luck!
Very interesting
Some tile on that steel and Kevlar plate might work
Probably so but I fear that would add too much weight. I might give that a try and find out.
Consider adding fiber mesh to your concrete mixture. I believe it is something like shredded fiberglass.
I added a little glass fiber reinforcement. I also used a little steel fiber reinforcement. I’m thinking is was just to weak of a concrete mixture. I have more on the concrete mixtures in a video next month.
1/4 steel pea gravel mixed with epoxy . Best homemade test square.
I have something very similar to this as a strike face to a rifle rated plate.
It’s expensive, but have you tried carbon fiber plates? Either alone or with other materials?
@@jim8228 I have tested carbon fiber panels thick and as a hybrid with Kevlar and unfortunately it’s not much better than paper and at its price it doesn’t really make it a viable alternative.
Extremely Insightful 🎉
Consider adding an aggregate to your resin.
Wait why not just do double or triple the layers of fiberglass? For example, the resin tiles could be stronger if they were fiberglass+resin tiles, right?
Thats true. I was just trying to keep the weight down as much as possible. However, I may need to re-build these plates and do another test with more fiberglass reinforcement.
@@3RBallistics I would imagine the fiberglass composite is less dense than ceramics or concrete. Probably similarly dense to the epoxy on its own? I'm not sure. I would suspect that if you made a plate that was just fiberglass that was the same thickness as the plates with concrete or ceramic tile, the weight would be a bit less and the strength might be comparable. It might be worth testing different plates holding thickness or weight constant to see which combination of fiberglass thickness and various other layers proves the strongest and/or lightest
@@3RBallistics Totally in agreement here, and efficiency is key: lowest weight that gets the work done, keeps the attacked safe(r) and mobile.
That said, if a lower weight is allowing a fatal bullet entrance to a vital organ, then a bit/more heavier protection would hands-down be preferred. ;)
very good
Good job
Biaxial fiberglass
Add a tablespoon of graphene to your concrete!
😂😂😂
does that bond or does it just make it sandstone?
You have to mix it into the water don't try to mix it into the powder because that takes an enormous amount of mixing to get a homogeneous mixture so you add the graphene to the water and mix it thoroughly and then add the water to the concrete mixture. You'll get a homogeneous mixture of the graphene into the concrete which should increase the strength by 25% depending on how much graphene you add and the quality of the graphene.
As usually, good job. I assume that you use half inch tile?
Is was 15mm tile so just over half inch.
@@3RBallisticstwo layers or just one?
@@brianyovicsonplumbing2118 just one 15mm tile.
Ahhhh. Thats how it stopped 308. I use half that and stop 556 and 7.62x39, but never 308.
@@evansaw293Interesting! What is your plate made of?
25 layers of 18oz / yard² (610g/m²) fiberglass and a 7,5mm (1/7 inch) plate of porcelain?
And this is enough to stop 5.56?
Maybe put the glass in a get away vehicle and rob a bank!
You might try 1" hexagonal 1/4" thick granite counter tile matrix in a double layer held together with a rubberized mastic compound. The granite is much harder than common ceramics and a double layer that is off set on the joints maximizes protection. The only thing better would be an advanced ceramic like Boron Carbide, whic is expensive
While granite is one of the hardest natural stones, it still falls a little short of even store bought porcelain tile in terms of hardness. The other problem is granite has a very weak fracture point. Initial projectile impact propagates cracks faster than the movement of the projectile. All that being said, I’ve still tested granite and marble just because I had samples of them and I will say granite is much better at slowing down and breaking up projectiles than marble.
@@3RBallistics I used to be a CNC srone router peogrammer and operator and have cut both, so I know their properties. Granite is hard and durable, especially the darker varieties. But marble is soft crap; pretty, but pourous and lacking strength
So wrap it in linex or flex seal.
Will keep the damage contained, keep it from falling out all over the place.
Domed tile/fiberglass/steel... stops almost anything for 50 bucks or so.
Tape the old nokias together, problem solved.
The gaps are a problem though but those can be filled with ground up Nokia's
So still no John wick bullet proof vest I’m assuming….jokes aside it was entertaining. May I ask if you ever test polycarbonate?
@@hardstylelife5749 yes, I’ve tested polycarbonate extensively. Almost every homemade bullet resistant glass videos I have contains some polycarbonate in them. Here’s a link to one of the videos
ruclips.net/video/Grc7tg3B1iU/видео.htmlsi=jNnhEJePVFMDLz_N
Ok, so what are the results so I don't have to watch this thing and write it all down.
The best design from the test was the tile and fiberglass plate. It successfully stopped 7.62x39, 5.56, and 7.62x51 (.308) rounds.
This combination proved to be the most effective in terms of stopping power, outperforming the other designs made from fiberglass and resin, as well as concrete. The tile and fiberglass plate's ability to handle multiple hits and high-velocity rounds made it the most robust and reliable option tested.
In the RUclips video, the creator tests homemade Level III rifle-rated body armor plates made from fiberglass, tile, concrete, and resin. The fiberglass and resin plate failed against 7.62x39 and 5.56 rounds. The concrete plate also failed. The tile and fiberglass plate successfully stopped 7.62x39, 5.56, and even 7.62x51 (.308), but failed against 30-06 and armor-piercing rounds. The AR500 steel plate with Kevlar backer was also tested, but results were inconclusive due to previous damage. The video concludes with plans for future bulletproof glass testing and collaborations.
The tile and fiberglass plate was constructed using the following method:
1. **Materials Used**:
- **Fiberglass**: 18-ounce woven roving fiberglass.
- **Tile**: Thick porcelain tile.
2. **Construction Process**:
- **Layers**: 25 layers of the woven roving fiberglass were pressed together.
- **Size**: The resulting plate measured 10 by 12 inches with a Shooters cut.
- **Tile Placement**: The tile was cut into shapes and placed in front of the fiberglass layers to allow for multiple hits.
This combination of materials and construction method provided effective protection against various high-velocity rounds. To estimate the weight of the tile and fiberglass plate, we'll break down the components:
### Materials:
1. **Fiberglass Layers**:
- **25 layers** of 18-ounce woven roving fiberglass.
- **Weight per layer**: 18 ounces (1.125 pounds).
- **Total weight for fiberglass**: \( 25 \times 1.125 = 28.125 \) pounds.
2. **Porcelain Tile**:
- **Assumed size**: Standard 10 by 12 inches.
- **Estimated weight**: Porcelain tile thickness and density can vary, but a 12x12 inch tile typically weighs around 3-5 pounds.
### Total Estimated Weight:
- **Fiberglass**: 28.125 pounds.
- **Tile**: Approximately 4 pounds (average of the typical weight range).
### Combined Weight:
- **Total weight**: \( 28.125 + 4 = 32.125 \) pounds.
This estimate suggests that the plate would be quite heavy, around 32 pounds. This is considerably heavier than typical body armor plates, which are designed to balance protection with weight.
I suggest trying Prince Rupert with fiberglass and resin
Would 1cm (3/8 inch) of porcelain be enough to stop 5.56 in this configuration?🤷🏼♂️
Just a suggestion...instead of making a body armor with a FLAT FACE, why not create a plate with a bunch of low, or high profile PYRAMID shapes on its face? I realize that this would be more difficult to manufacture, but I'm thinking that it would definitely redirect the striaght forward, direct energy of the projectile into a more sideways direction.
Now the BIG unknown is, where would the projectile get directed to? Into a foot, a face, etc? Which would of course not be a good outcome, and confirm that this design would be a complete fail. Don't know until you try though.
Not a bad idea and worth trying but you face many complications. Weight and especially thickness would be major issues not manufacturing.
@@3RBallistics I realize what you're saying. I basically said the same thing in my original post. Upon further thought however, it might be worth considering maybe a full "V" shaped plate instead of smaller individual pyramids. The ridge of the "V", the thickest part, running parralell, from upper chest down to belly, and slanting backwards around the rib cage area. That will at least have some deflective qualities I believe. Again though...where would the deflected projectile end up? In an arm possibly? Again, not an ideal outcome. The whole concept needs to be tested to truly answer that question.
@@BuckleUpPansies agreed 👍. I might make both plates just to see the difference in deflection. I’d have to cook up some ballistic gel or something to catch the fragmentation.
@@3RBallistics Game on my friend. Interested to see what the melding of our collective talents produces. 🤓🤓 Will be watching your channel to follow your progress. Good luck! 🤞🤞🤞
Have you looked into ceramic beads the same stuff used on the outside of the space shuttle?
Yes we are
enjoyyour videos
Yeah, but nothing beats good ol tannerite vests.
I’m building that next 👍
Lol
He have lung problems.. just by listening to his video. Live
Noticed that, too. Sounded like that when I had a pneumothorax
@8:40 it almost looks like reactive armor.
If you got hit the giant explosion of dust is gonna reveal your position
If I get hit, I’m pretty sure they know where I am 😵
They already know your position since you got shot !
Add it to the water first!
u understand the gaps makes all that worthless?
And how’s that? Many current rifle rated body armor plates use ceramic pieces instead of a single ceramic piece for the strike face. Granted, the gaps on these homemade ones will be slightly larger than commercially available ones but still smaller than allowed by most manufacturers.
@@3RBallistics hahaha ya “slightly larger” .. stick to your day job
@@ImThatGuyouMan It’s all part of the learning. But I agree with you and definitely plan of staying with my day job 👍
@@ImThatGuyouMan, you must be "that guy" who shows up to a barbecue and people whisper who invited that know-it-all douche?
@@filster1934 I know common sense is hard for you and some other people, you soy boi.
You need to build a higher berm. Nice info but I don’t want to live in a world where you need this.
Yes, bigger berm. I’ve been working on the range when time allows.
08:16 "...step it up to 7.62 by 51 M80, full metal jacket .308."
Huh? 7.62 and .308 are NOT the same, amigo. You know that, right? I hope? Just...yikes.
😆 Yes hombre, there are very very minor differences, like case pressures. I also know the .308 Winchester measures 7.62x51 per SAMI specs, wait what!? Please enlighten me on which .308 round is used by NATO? Or better yet, which is the best penetrating .308 round? The fact remains the bi-metal M80 is better at penetrating performance than any .308 Win factory load out there. And in case you were confused, the same exact dimensional bullet comes out of both which is what I was referring to in the video.
Clearly you do not know how the materials work on a molecular level. Put the thick tile in front of the AR500 and wrap it inside the Kevlar or Nylon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DUH.
Clearly you don’t understand that weight is the biggest factor I was dealing with. Tile and steel would equal a plate in excess of 10 pounds…. DUH 🙄
All the common are from people in third world countries 😂 good job telling the poor people how to make our job harder
"Rifle rated" bunch of low power intermediate cartridges..
Talk to me when you can stop 30-06, 7.62x54R or any other 'real' rifle round.
I have those rounds too if you’d like to see them stop those as well. However, I try to keep my testing and terminology consistent with NIJ standards.
I have those rounds too if you’d like to see them stop those as well. However, I try to keep my testing and terminology consistent with NIJ standards.
@@3RBallistics Cheers, this is more clear to me now I have watched more thankyou for taking the time to clarify this personally much appreciated.
1st
Слава Україні!
Can you make body armor with stucco and fiber glass.
Yes, you can. But you would have something that would be thicker and heavier than conventional body armor.