Try quenching in oil instead of water next time. Would also like to see what adding fiber glass to the HDPE might be able to do, and a ceramic tile instead of glass. Be cool to see a video about the whole melting/casting/foundry process as well. Awesome job, thanks for this.
@3RBallistics when I was a kid I put rabbit darts for a pellet gun in a .410 shot gun. They would blow right through an aluminum sign. But with a folded up used airbag it would stop them from pucturing
I see a thin layer of plastic on front to catch spall. It seems that a fiberglass mat glued to the back of tile will keep it together after hit, then hitting the aluminum after the bullet has lost its pointy tip, has a chance to stop it. A layer of HDTP on back of the alum helps keep pieces from breaking thru. My guess after seeing your testing. Whole thing would be 1 1/4" thick. Bulky by modern standards, but nearly free to make. III or nearly IIIA rated. Getting that final A is tough without tungsten or Kevlar or getting over 1 1/2" thick. Keep up the good work.
If you do revisit this with tile, try aluminum on front and back of the tile. Modern tank armor uses a thin metal strike face over ceramic with a thicker metal backer, followed by a composite behind that for spalling.
i think tile would make bigger difference than thicker aluminium. although thicker aluminium sure won't hurt. btw, rolling aluminium on the mill is what makes it tough. in understand it's not a possibility at home DIY but curious as to what alloying elements can make most difference in absence of the rolling. on other though. why don't you try work-hardening aluminium by hitting it a whole a lot of times with a sledge. not super hard to crack it or destroy it, but just lot's of light taps in a grid pattern from both sides and compare to non-work hardened plate. should be a good experiment and 100% compatible with a garage/diy build
Another thing to consider is what the caps for the jugs is made out of. They may not be HDPE but another type of plastic. It would also be cool to see what sandwiching the aluminum in thin steel might be able to do. Lastly, just for kicks, instead of melting and casting the cans, what about simply crushing them? Something anyone without a foundry kiln might be able to put together.
let me 1st tell you; good job! i think tile will have bigger effect than thicker alum plate. but thicker sure won't hurt. i'm wondering, since aluminium gets toughened up as it getting rolled at the factory mill, if you could work harden one of your plates as a test. lots of light taps in a grid pattern with a sledge, should do it. not enough to destroy or deform but strong enough to compress metal crystalline grid. do it from both sides. it should surface harden it and leave less hard more malleable core. it could help. i know it's not the same as forging or rolling but totally compatible with DIY nature of the project.
Try quenching in oil instead of water next time. Would also like to see what adding fiber glass to the HDPE might be able to do, and a ceramic tile instead of glass. Be cool to see a video about the whole melting/casting/foundry process as well. Awesome job, thanks for this.
I think it'd be interesting to put the material from an air bag wrapped around a tile to catch the frag and spalling some where's in the stack
@@windsorswinamer2877 I like that idea. I’ll see what I can find.
@3RBallistics when I was a kid I put rabbit darts for a pellet gun in a .410 shot gun. They would blow right through an aluminum sign. But with a folded up used airbag it would stop them from pucturing
Actually really cool you were able to achieve 3A plate, good to know how to make
I wonder if you use HMW HDPE (High Moleculsr Weight) usually 55 gallon drumbs are made out of HMW HDPE. They are blue in color.
I really look forward to your next video... Extremely Interesting
I see a thin layer of plastic on front to catch spall.
It seems that a fiberglass mat glued to the back of tile will keep it together after hit, then hitting the aluminum after the bullet has lost its pointy tip, has a chance to stop it. A layer of HDTP on back of the alum helps keep pieces from breaking thru.
My guess after seeing your testing. Whole thing would be 1 1/4" thick. Bulky by modern standards, but nearly free to make. III or nearly IIIA rated. Getting that final A is tough without tungsten or Kevlar or getting over 1 1/2" thick.
Keep up the good work.
If you do revisit this with tile, try aluminum on front and back of the tile.
Modern tank armor uses a thin metal strike face over ceramic with a thicker metal backer, followed by a composite behind that for spalling.
Form plastic first under vacuum to keep air out. Once it has melted then add pressure to help make it more dense.
i think tile would make bigger difference than thicker aluminium. although thicker aluminium sure won't hurt.
btw, rolling aluminium on the mill is what makes it tough. in understand it's not a possibility at home DIY but curious as to what alloying elements can make most difference in absence of the rolling. on other though. why don't you try work-hardening aluminium by hitting it a whole a lot of times with a sledge. not super hard to crack it or destroy it, but just lot's of light taps in a grid pattern from both sides and compare to non-work hardened plate. should be a good experiment and 100% compatible with a garage/diy build
Another thing to consider is what the caps for the jugs is made out of. They may not be HDPE but another type of plastic. It would also be cool to see what sandwiching the aluminum in thin steel might be able to do. Lastly, just for kicks, instead of melting and casting the cans, what about simply crushing them? Something anyone without a foundry kiln might be able to put together.
i made a foundry for about 40$ from home depot n could make another one with the left over supply. plenty of vids on it if ur interested
@@Tee-ina-Skee-Mask $40 is about half the cost of a real kevlar bulletproof vest.
@@Eidolon1andOnly right but im talking about making a foundry
Seems relatively easy to stop pistol but rifle is another story.
let me 1st tell you; good job!
i think tile will have bigger effect than thicker alum plate. but thicker sure won't hurt. i'm wondering, since aluminium gets toughened up as it getting rolled at the factory mill, if you could work harden one of your plates as a test. lots of light taps in a grid pattern with a sledge, should do it. not enough to destroy or deform but strong enough to compress metal crystalline grid. do it from both sides. it should surface harden it and leave less hard more malleable core. it could help. i know it's not the same as forging or rolling but totally compatible with DIY nature of the project.
I tried to find you are any email or any kind of place where I can chat with you talk about project