Excellent video. I think I'm more optimistic about using the laser heat gun, so long as you factor in the fact that it will read a couple of degrees low. On the v4 Camry, the temp range is actually 95 to 113, which is a big enough window. Just run the car until it's 95 (the computer would be reading 98-100), and replace the overflow plug when the fluid runs to a trickle. That should be accurate. The tricky thing is that the temperature will be going up steadily, so you've got to finish up before your heat gun is reading 107 or so.
Had to do this on my wife's Beetle. What I would suggest is to fill the car up to the suggested fill amount and then tighten plug. Turn the car on and shift through the gears multiple times. Then when the proper temperature is reached, take drain bolt out and wait for stream to become a trickle. If nothing comes out, then turn car off and add more fluid. Wait for car to be at proper temperature and repeat. If the temperature is out of the safe zone you won't get a proper reading.
For those who want a Complete (Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator-Cooler) fluid exchange vs an approx 40% pan exchange, the following 2007 RAV4 approach SHOULD be applicable to Most makes and models: 1.) Remove the plastic shield under the front of the vehicle. Note, new assorted plastic push-clips are recommended. 2.) The radiator cooler transmission fluid out-fall is on the drivers side approx 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID rubber hose with spring clasp clamp -- EASY to see and access! 3.) Disconnect the hose and attach an extension line to a translucent 1gal jug in an catch pan (for overflow/spills). 4.) The steel return line may drip into a second catch pan. 5.) Snuggly attach a clear extension line to the dip-stick tube with a funnel. (I inserted a clear plastic kitchen "baster" keeping the refill level from overflowing at top of the "baster"/funnel). 6.) Start the engine and put in gear (automatic) until approx 1/2 gal OLD is collected and turn off engine. 7.) Fill approx 1/2 gal NEW. 8.) Repeat for approx 2 1/2 gals until bright pink is dispensing. 9.) Reattach radiator/trans Return line. 10.) Adjust fluid level to the low side of the "Cold" mark on dip-stick (so you can top-off to the Hot mark). 11.) Drive vehicle until transmission is up to approx 115 deg. F and adjust fluid level to "Hot" mark. 12.) Reattach the plastic shield using new plastic push-pins. 13.) This should replace the Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator Cooler with ALL New Fluid. NOTE: For Sealed transmissions attach an extension line with funnel to the steel Return line (instead of the non-existent "dip-stick tube"). Happy motoring!
You don't need a scan tool, you can use a temp gun at the very back end of the trans pan, just clean it well before starting and make sure you let the car cool completely. Also, when you go to the trans, don't just plug it right when you see fluid coming out, it needs to be 'trickling' out, because the capacity of the trans pan will overwhelm the overflow tube at first, and you need the fluid level to settle before plugging
The problem with using the temp gun is I have seen up to a 15-degree temp difference between what a temp gun shows vs what the scan tool shows so I have a hard time trusting a temp gun.
Manufacturers set maintenance schedules to get the car out-of-warranty as efficiently as possible. With proper care an maintenance, today's cars should last until you are bored with them. I happen to have been getting bored at 200 000,00. I am going for 500K with the new one.
I have a 2012 Camry with the same engine and tranny, if I do a drain and fill on it every 40 or 50k miles then is changing the filter necessary? I wanna keep my car running as long as possible. Thanks
@@royhobbs785 If you are going to replace the filter you do that after you drain it. As long as you don't have any transmission issues and the mileage is low enough you can get away with not changing the filter.
@@737mechanic mines is a 2010 Camry LE 2.5 with the same tranny. 92k miles and shifts good. Do I do a drain and fill as well as replacing the filter and clean the magnets?
Why not drain old fluid (measure what came out) button it up and put same amount of new fluid back in? BTW how many miles on that Camry because the fluid looked really dark.
@@nickchodor239 never mind measuring the fluid that fluid that he pulled out of there looked dark. I’m starting to wonder if it’s first fluid change in years good luck with that that fluid looked really dark and bad not a good idea to change that.fluid
How would you know when to pull the plug, if you pull it to soon you will be putting the plug back in multiple times until you finally get it to temp and then you may have almost all the fluid drained out by then.
Yep they do this so only they can work on the cars. That’s why Toyota tries to tell its customers the transmission is as good as long as the car. Ha I always say well I want my transmission to last.
@@edgarduran8291 obviously not Toyota just quoted me to do this for 200 bucks. I had another quote for an independent garage that will do the same thing for $180. It’s not very expensive to have it done and it’s not very hard to do yourself to be honest I’m just lazy, so I rather pay someone to do it that way if they screw up then you sue them it’s simple
I’ve actually never seen it done like this the way I’ve been watching all these other master mechanics with Toyota clearly lift up the car put it on jackstands blah blah blah go for your fill plug first to make sure you can actually fill the transmission when you drain it Then if everything is OK with that, then you proceeded to take the drain plug and let access drain first then take the straw out and let the rest drain measure very carefully. What comes out into the drain pan example 2 1/2 quarts come out you put 3 quarts in, start the car shift through gars slowly repeat a couple times go out underneath the car while car is running and in park check temperature 95° to 113°F that is the safe zone with car still running. Undo the drain cap drain access fluiduntil it starts to trickle replace drain cap snug tight, clean area with brake clean, wipe clean you’re done at that end go inn wheel well snug up your fill cap spray that with brake clean wipe clean put clip back in on back end of splashguard tighten the 2 10mm bolts job should be complete. You don’t even have to remove the tire or you can just go pay $180 at a shop and have them do it make sure they do it by watching step-by-step and keeping your eye on them. No worries. because honestly, by the time you buy the fluid and everything you need to do the job you might as well just go to a shop and have them do it either way or go to the dealership. It’s only $200 at the dealership at least for me anyway and yes, that’s Toyota dealership obviously
@737mechanic I'm going to try to jack it up and use the breaker again...if not buy a 24mm 12 point box wrench...if that doesn't work...I'll have to get me an impact
So after doing this I got a p2759. Do you think maybe it's still a Little low on fluid? Maybe I didn't get up to a high enough temp when adding fluid... Any help is appreciated.
104-113 F is the proper temp. You should’ve drained around 3 quarts if you have the U760 trans. Put 3.5 back in and let the excess drain at the proper temp.
They quoted me a little over 200 bucks. You don’t have to go to the dealer most independent auto shops or repair shops. Will do it as well as long as they use the fluid that contains WS which most of them will know what you’re talking about it’s a full synthetic fluid, most of the independent shops will charge way less to do this type of service. I’m going to get mine done. Tomorrow morning for 180 bucks out the door I would do it myself but unfortunately, we are just getting over a hurricane so I have to have a dry place to do it. Unfortunately it will be still breezy tomorrow and it will blow fluid all over so that’s why I’m taking my car to the shop and having it professionally done and also I don’t know when this fluid has been serviced or it’s been serviced so I don’t know the correct amount that’s in it
Standpipe? You must be an A&P....lol..I did 3 drain and fills on my 2014, about 200 miles apart. This was at 40k miles and the car now has 50k. Overkill some might say but thats ok with me. I'll do just one d&f every 20k-25k miles from now on.
Drained 87 oz of transmission fluid, ran it on all gears including reverse while on four jack stands but only take 46 oz then overflow. What gives, do I need to run it on the streets and for how long?
Did you put the stand pipe back in? As long as the car is level and the temp is correct when you are filling it you should be ok. Just make sure you get the standpipe back in correctly.
And if you’re coolant is low, sounds like you have a leak. Hopefully, you can see the leak on the outside. If not, it sounds like you might have a leaking head gasket. Good luck.
If you overfill it drain access out again do not keep it in there. It has to be right on point no less no more it has to be right on point. If you overfill it and leave it and start driving transmission fluid expands when it gets hot it also foams and it will fuck your transmission up completely. If you do not know what you’re doing. I suggest you take your service to a certified mechanic shop that can do the favor, and save your transmission from you screwing it up or you can count on in the next few months I’m going to a junkyard or ordering a new transmission for $7000 or more just my two cents though
@@737mechanic Yea its horrific man! it's a recall. i suppose the person i bought it from never changed the fluid. I don't feel like buying fluid twice if it doesn't work.
Great info, thanks! I thought you stated the car had to be level and one needed to raise rear wheels? Towards the end when you were taking temp, the rear wheels were still on the ground with front jacked up.
Yes, he might’ve served it properly, but you are initially supposed to put it through the gears. He did it a little bit different than what I’ve been seeing but still close enough. Hopefully his transmission will last longer but initially yes you have to put it through the gears that’s with any transmission fluid change on any vehicle.
this is wierd, the dealer said for this year and mos of em', THERE IS NO scheduled MAINTENCE, for tranny flush, so not sure why your doing it?also waste of time/$, b/c most of the tranny fluid is in the torque converter, so you only drain a few quarts from the pan, lastly , i wldn't even think abot doing it, unless this beast of a car had 150k miles on it, !!!!!!!!!!! good vid tho!
There are a lot of manufacturers that claim their transmissions require no service and if the car is driven very easily over its lifetime you might get lucky and not have any issues but if you want to make sure you are not going to have any issues it is best to keep fresh fluid in them. In fact, if you do some research you will find ALL the manufacturers that claim no service required have had plenty of customers that have had transmissions fail, and most of the time the transmissions make it past the warranty period so you end up with the bill.
You always do a fluid service change. It’s still oil it has to be serviced. It breaks down overtime, especially in a sealed system. A sealed transmission is very complex, which puts a lot of stress on the fluid especially if you live in southern states it gets very warm in these states keep that in mind it’s like motor oil, you have to change it at a certain interval mainly what’s required by your manufacture I know when I had my Hyundai Sonata they told me the same thing I looked in the manual book and it said with excessive where and usage change at 60,000 miles. The same thing is with Toyota change at 60,000 miles. you can go over a little bit 80,000 is max I would not go past 85,000 miles any further than that you are asking for major problems good luck
I always figure people that are planning on doing something like this has an actual set of tools and not just one size socket or wrench in their kitchen drawer but. And one more thing, that plug on the bottom is the drain plug.
@@737mechanic Maybe, but if you're laying on the ground and/or your eyesight isn't very good, it's nice to know so you don't inadvertently end up stripping the head by either using the wrong size or using a torx instead of a hex. It's just a nice thing do, especially if it saves a person going to their toolbox three times to get the correct size.
As a DYIer, one of the primary reason I look at RUclips videos is to know the sizes of the tools I will need. And most of them give you an idea of the torque. The OP here let us kids know not to break the plastic stand pipe. I've been under too many cars not to appreciate a list of tools in the instrument pack! @@stevofromiowa
@@stevofromiowa well first of all if you can’t see what you’re doing then you don’t need to be doing it in the first place second of all that’s pretty rude of you to tell him that because that’s not his job to let you know he’s showing you how to do the job out of the willingness of his heart third when you go pick up the fluid you can always go to AutoZone or advance or O’Reillys and they will definitely tell you the specs of everything that you need. Honestly, you don’t even have to do that anymore. There’s so many videos of this on RUclips or there’s google go on there and find out for yourself!
XTOOL D8W Automotive Diagnostic Scan Tool with 3-Year Updates
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Cordless Ratchet
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Oil Change Pan
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Maxlife Full Synthetic ATF Fluid
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737mechanic Amazon Store Front
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Excellent video. I think I'm more optimistic about using the laser heat gun, so long as you factor in the fact that it will read a couple of degrees low. On the v4 Camry, the temp range is actually 95 to 113, which is a big enough window. Just run the car until it's 95 (the computer would be reading 98-100), and replace the overflow plug when the fluid runs to a trickle. That should be accurate. The tricky thing is that the temperature will be going up steadily, so you've got to finish up before your heat gun is reading 107 or so.
Had to do this on my wife's Beetle. What I would suggest is to fill the car up to the suggested fill amount and then tighten plug. Turn the car on and shift through the gears multiple times. Then when the proper temperature is reached, take drain bolt out and wait for stream to become a trickle. If nothing comes out, then turn car off and add more fluid. Wait for car to be at proper temperature and repeat. If the temperature is out of the safe zone you won't get a proper reading.
For those who want a Complete (Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator-Cooler) fluid exchange vs an approx 40% pan exchange, the following 2007 RAV4 approach SHOULD be applicable to Most makes and models:
1.) Remove the plastic shield under the front of the vehicle. Note, new assorted plastic push-clips are recommended.
2.) The radiator cooler transmission fluid out-fall is on the drivers side approx 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID rubber hose with spring clasp clamp -- EASY to see and access!
3.) Disconnect the hose and attach an extension line to a translucent 1gal jug in an catch pan (for overflow/spills).
4.) The steel return line may drip into a second catch pan.
5.) Snuggly attach a clear extension line to the dip-stick tube with a funnel. (I inserted a clear plastic kitchen "baster" keeping the refill level from overflowing at top of the "baster"/funnel).
6.) Start the engine and put in gear (automatic) until approx 1/2 gal OLD is collected and turn off engine.
7.) Fill approx 1/2 gal NEW.
8.) Repeat for approx 2 1/2 gals until bright pink is dispensing.
9.) Reattach radiator/trans Return line.
10.) Adjust fluid level to the low side of the "Cold" mark on dip-stick (so you can top-off to the Hot mark).
11.) Drive vehicle until transmission is up to approx 115 deg. F and adjust fluid level to "Hot" mark.
12.) Reattach the plastic shield using new plastic push-pins.
13.) This should replace the Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator Cooler with ALL New Fluid.
NOTE: For Sealed transmissions attach an extension line with funnel to the steel Return line (instead of the non-existent "dip-stick tube").
Happy motoring!
You don't need a scan tool, you can use a temp gun at the very back end of the trans pan, just clean it well before starting and make sure you let the car cool completely. Also, when you go to the trans, don't just plug it right when you see fluid coming out, it needs to be 'trickling' out, because the capacity of the trans pan will overwhelm the overflow tube at first, and you need the fluid level to settle before plugging
The problem with using the temp gun is I have seen up to a 15-degree temp difference between what a temp gun shows vs what the scan tool shows so I have a hard time trusting a temp gun.
well get a new temp gun or dont buy em at wmt dude
@@737mechanic
Car manufacturers like to make things difficult to maintain!
Yep and a waste of fluid. So much for caring about the environment.
Yep they do that so only they can maintenance it or have you with that your transmission fluid is good for the lifetime of the car lol
Manufacturers set maintenance schedules to get the car out-of-warranty as efficiently as possible. With proper care an maintenance, today's cars should last until you are bored with them. I happen to have been getting bored at 200 000,00. I am going for 500K with the new one.
I like how the pan definitely shows some contact with something
I have a 2012 Camry with the same engine and tranny, if I do a drain and fill on it every 40 or 50k miles then is changing the filter necessary? I wanna keep my car running as long as possible. Thanks
No, I have done that with many vehicles and have never had tranny issues.
@@737mechanic Replace filter before draining
@@royhobbs785 If you are going to replace the filter you do that after you drain it. As long as you don't have any transmission issues and the mileage is low enough you can get away with not changing the filter.
@@737mechanic mines is a 2010 Camry LE 2.5 with the same tranny. 92k miles and shifts good. Do I do a drain and fill as well as replacing the filter and clean the magnets?
Total newb question here...why did the fluid quit flowing for a bit when he started it up?
Because it gets sucked up into the transmission.
You did not shift the gears.
Why not drain old fluid (measure what came out) button it up and put same amount of new fluid back in? BTW how many miles on that Camry because the fluid looked really dark.
Did you tried this procedure????
Cause as the years go on the original fluid burns off so it may be less than what actually has to go back in.
That's exactly what I did on mine.
I was just going to say that that fluid looked bad
@@nickchodor239 never mind measuring the fluid that fluid that he pulled out of there looked dark. I’m starting to wonder if it’s first fluid change in years good luck with that that fluid looked really dark and bad not a good idea to change that.fluid
Could you measure what comes out & add the same amount back?
Yes, you can but keep in mind if the trans was below or above the correct level it will still be after you are finished.
Yes if its cold fluid
How bout a thermometer on the oil coming out? No scan tool neccesary.
How would you know when to pull the plug, if you pull it to soon you will be putting the plug back in multiple times until you finally get it to temp and then you may have almost all the fluid drained out by then.
Thanks for your video
Toyota is expecting us to go tru all this just to check your fluid level..????
Yep they do this so only they can work on the cars. That’s why Toyota tries to tell its customers the transmission is as good as long as the car. Ha I always say well I want my transmission to last.
No. They expect us to go to them and charge us a lot of money.
@@edgarduran8291 obviously not Toyota just quoted me to do this for 200 bucks. I had another quote for an independent garage that will do the same thing for $180. It’s not very expensive to have it done and it’s not very hard to do yourself to be honest I’m just lazy, so I rather pay someone to do it that way if they screw up then you sue them it’s simple
How many liters of gear oil?
I’ve actually never seen it done like this the way I’ve been watching all these other master mechanics with Toyota clearly lift up the car put it on jackstands blah blah blah go for your fill plug first to make sure you can actually fill the transmission when you drain it Then if everything is OK with that, then you proceeded to take the drain plug and let access drain first then take the straw out and let the rest drain measure very carefully. What comes out into the drain pan example 2 1/2 quarts come out you put 3 quarts in, start the car shift through gars slowly repeat a couple times go out underneath the car while car is running and in park check temperature 95° to 113°F that is the safe zone with car still running. Undo the drain cap drain access fluiduntil it starts to trickle replace drain cap snug tight, clean area with brake clean, wipe clean you’re done at that end go inn wheel well snug up your fill cap spray that with brake clean wipe clean put clip back in on back end of splashguard tighten the 2 10mm bolts job should be complete. You don’t even have to remove the tire or you can just go pay $180 at a shop and have them do it make sure they do it by watching step-by-step and keeping your eye on them. No worries. because honestly, by the time you buy the fluid and everything you need to do the job you might as well just go to a shop and have them do it either way or go to the dealership. It’s only $200 at the dealership at least for me anyway and yes, that’s Toyota dealership obviously
I cant get the 24mm bolt off! Tried ratchet and breaker bar...what next?
Impact
@@737mechanic dang. Was hoping I could avoid it. Thanks for the reply.
@@jllerena488 Or get a longer breaker bar.
@737mechanic I'm going to try to jack it up and use the breaker again...if not buy a 24mm 12 point box wrench...if that doesn't work...I'll have to get me an impact
I got it loosened! I lifted the car and removed the tire to give me more space to work with and got it with an 18-inch breaker!
So after doing this I got a p2759. Do you think maybe it's still a Little low on fluid? Maybe I didn't get up to a high enough temp when adding fluid... Any help is appreciated.
104-113 F is the proper temp. You should’ve drained around 3 quarts if you have the U760 trans. Put 3.5 back in and let the excess drain at the proper temp.
how much should a dealer charge for this service.. My 2014 LE has 73000 miles. I’m 70 yo. Can’t do it myself.
About $200.
They quoted me a little over 200 bucks. You don’t have to go to the dealer most independent auto shops or repair shops. Will do it as well as long as they use the fluid that contains WS which most of them will know what you’re talking about it’s a full synthetic fluid, most of the independent shops will charge way less to do this type of service. I’m going to get mine done. Tomorrow morning for 180 bucks out the door I would do it myself but unfortunately, we are just getting over a hurricane so I have to have a dry place to do it. Unfortunately it will be still breezy tomorrow and it will blow fluid all over so that’s why I’m taking my car to the shop and having it professionally done and also I don’t know when this fluid has been serviced or it’s been serviced so I don’t know the correct amount that’s in it
❤thank you so much
Standpipe? You must be an A&P....lol..I did 3 drain and fills on my 2014, about 200 miles apart. This was at 40k miles and the car now has 50k. Overkill some might say but thats ok with me. I'll do just one d&f every 20k-25k miles from now on.
Would you please tell what brand and model your scan tool is and where to buy it ?
The one I used for that video was the Autel MS906BT
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But the one I use most of the time now is the Xtool D8BT
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nice. thanks. Oh, where did you get that metal tube for pump up sprayer?
Drained 87 oz of transmission fluid, ran it on all gears including reverse while on four jack stands but only take 46 oz then overflow. What gives, do I need to run it on the streets and for how long?
Did you put the stand pipe back in? As long as the car is level and the temp is correct when you are filling it you should be ok. Just make sure you get the standpipe back in correctly.
Do you know if the process is the same for the V6 version of the 2014 Camry??
If you over fill it will it leak out the axle seal?
No
Pls can low transmission fluid cause engine to overheat. Also can it make radiator go low every time?
Sounds like you have low coolant causing the overheat
And if you’re coolant is low, sounds like you have a leak. Hopefully, you can see the leak on the outside. If not, it sounds like you might have a leaking head gasket. Good luck.
Why don't you just measure how much you drain out and put that same amount in?
Because if it is low to start with it will be low after you finish filling it.
If you overfill it drain access out again do not keep it in there. It has to be right on point no less no more it has to be right on point. If you overfill it and leave it and start driving transmission fluid expands when it gets hot it also foams and it will fuck your transmission up completely. If you do not know what you’re doing. I suggest you take your service to a certified mechanic shop that can do the favor, and save your transmission from you screwing it up or you can count on in the next few months I’m going to a junkyard or ordering a new transmission for $7000 or more just my two cents though
so this doesnt fix the shudder problem does it
It may fix it, I wasn't aware that the Camry had a shuddering problem.
@@737mechanic Yea its horrific man! it's a recall. i suppose the person i bought it from never changed the fluid. I don't feel like buying fluid twice if it doesn't work.
@@shane462 I would change it and I bet that will stop the shuddering.
@@737mechanic i am going to try it! ill let you know
@@shane462. Did you take it to Toyota to have the torque converter changed ? Or Did you just do the oil change? Did it fix the shuttering?
Great info, thanks! I thought you stated the car had to be level and one needed to raise rear wheels? Towards the end when you were taking temp, the rear wheels were still on the ground with front jacked up.
I had the body jacked up and the suspension was relaxed and was just off the ground.
What is the machine used to remove bolts or nuts called ?
Air ratchet
He just underfilled it by letting the temp get to high and he didn't run through the gears with the fresh fluid......
A year later running good and it is still at the proper level.
If anything he has it ever so slightly overfilled.
Dude serviced it properly
Yes, he might’ve served it properly, but you are initially supposed to put it through the gears. He did it a little bit different than what I’ve been seeing but still close enough. Hopefully his transmission will last longer but initially yes you have to put it through the gears that’s with any transmission fluid change on any vehicle.
this is wierd, the dealer said for this year and mos of em', THERE IS NO scheduled MAINTENCE, for tranny flush, so not sure why your doing it?also waste of time/$, b/c most of the tranny fluid is in the torque converter, so you only drain a few quarts from the pan, lastly , i wldn't even think abot doing it, unless this beast of a car had 150k miles on it, !!!!!!!!!!! good vid tho!
There are a lot of manufacturers that claim their transmissions require no service and if the car is driven very easily over its lifetime you might get lucky and not have any issues but if you want to make sure you are not going to have any issues it is best to keep fresh fluid in them. In fact, if you do some research you will find ALL the manufacturers that claim no service required have had plenty of customers that have had transmissions fail, and most of the time the transmissions make it past the warranty period so you end up with the bill.
You always do a fluid service change. It’s still oil it has to be serviced. It breaks down overtime, especially in a sealed system. A sealed transmission is very complex, which puts a lot of stress on the fluid especially if you live in southern states it gets very warm in these states keep that in mind it’s like motor oil, you have to change it at a certain interval mainly what’s required by your manufacture I know when I had my Hyundai Sonata they told me the same thing I looked in the manual book and it said with excessive where and usage change at 60,000 miles. The same thing is with Toyota change at 60,000 miles. you can go over a little bit 80,000 is max I would not go past 85,000 miles any further than that you are asking for major problems good luck
Has anyone installed a dipstick?
They make aftermarket dipsticks.
@@737mechanic I was wondering if they did that and I figured they did
What fluid did you use ??
Valvoline Maxlife, The "Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association" recommends it over the Toyota fluid.
Yes, you can use Valvoline max life full synthetic transmission fluid look on the back and make sure it is required Toyota WS if not, do not use it!
Never change the transmission fluid on highmilage vehicle.
Unless it has been changed regularly.
Bingo
No shit thats the drain plug.. u said it twice... dont bother mentiong what kind and the size of the tool u used to take it off...
I always figure people that are planning on doing something like this has an actual set of tools and not just one size socket or wrench in their kitchen drawer but. And one more thing, that plug on the bottom is the drain plug.
@@737mechanic Maybe, but if you're laying on the ground and/or your eyesight isn't very good, it's nice to know so you don't inadvertently end up stripping the head by either using the wrong size or using a torx instead of a hex. It's just a nice thing do, especially if it saves a person going to their toolbox three times to get the correct size.
@@stevofromiowa Good Point.
As a DYIer, one of the primary reason I look at RUclips videos is to know the sizes of the tools I will need. And most of them give you an idea of the torque. The OP here let us kids know not to break the plastic stand pipe. I've been under too many cars not to appreciate a list of tools in the instrument pack! @@stevofromiowa
@@stevofromiowa well first of all if you can’t see what you’re doing then you don’t need to be doing it in the first place second of all that’s pretty rude of you to tell him that because that’s not his job to let you know he’s showing you how to do the job out of the willingness of his heart third when you go pick up the fluid you can always go to AutoZone or advance or O’Reillys and they will definitely tell you the specs of everything that you need. Honestly, you don’t even have to do that anymore. There’s so many videos of this on RUclips or there’s google go on there and find out for yourself!
I the like 600
Bad mechanic.why?refill on only need the fluid came out add 4 oz more that simple?