Mark Stainless Steel with this Diode Laser (the new 20W xTool D1 Pro)
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2022
- Mark Stainless Steel with this Diode Laser (the new 20W xTool D1 Pro). This is a diode laser that marks metal! This new laser is bananas. The extra wattage allows the laser to anneal certain metals like stainless steel and titanium. With crazy good results!
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I do a bit of tig welding on stainless. Flat non structural sheets will warp. Try clamping it to a nice 1/2" thick piece of aluminum chill block on top of your honeycomb. The aluminum will absorb and pull the heat from the stainless, the honeycombwont allow it to be trapped. (In theory)
Another great video, thanks again for answering questions that I've had
The last skull or the dragon can't decide lol. I've been cutting small parts with my 10w out of roughly 2mm black plastic sheets I salvaged from the underside of some treadmills. They aren't perfectly flat to start with (close enough though) and sometimes warp or curl a bit while cutting. I don't have any way to secure anything to my makeshift honeycomb thing so I've been using 3" x 1/4" steel slugs placed on the edges too hold it flat. If I'm cutting parts along an edge I'll put it in the middle of the sheet. I got a handful of circles and rectangles of various sizes for free - they were scrap cutouts at a metal fabrication shop. Something similar might work to hold down the ends of your thinner sheets. Oh and I always try and remember to frame the job again after putting them down to make sure the laser won't hit them.
Awesome! Great video. You are really nailing colors.
Or colored nails..lol just messin' keep up those info vids ! Cheers !!
Still enjoying your videos, I’m expecting my Xtool D1 Pro tomorrow. I love the coloured skull and dragon, will be trying that for sure. Thx for shar8ng
Hi there Nick , thanks for bringing me back to your channel......all the changes that you made are excellent , amazing work , and frankly I am not bored anymore 😂 interesting stuff .
Keep up the good stuff goin'on !
Welcome back!
Cheers
Hello, through the process of heating and subsequently cooling the steel, a structural hardening takes place. A harder structure can lead to a contraction of up to 1%. To prevent this effect, it may be helpful to preheat the steel. An example would be using an oven at temperatures between 200 and 250°C, as the tempering colors in the steel only begin to appear at over 350°C.
Hey Nick. Great video. If you wanted to use a thinner metal have you try putting two pieces together for the laser part and then separating them? Curious if that would work.
Omg I used to watch your vids about color burning before covid. I loved your videos back then.
Hey Nick! Thank you for showing this and I am really keen to try and recreate this. I have ordered some stainless steel and titanium. I want to initially try the grid test to see my color pallette, what setting range did you find in the end was best to get the best result/color range? For both materials?
I know your material warped and you lowered power and sped it up, so would love to know if you did a updated grid with the newer settings range? I have a honeycomb plate so am curious if my material will warp. What thickness did you use in the end and worked well and did warp? I am grabbing some 3mm titanium and 1.5mm stainless.
Cheers mates, keen to hear back from you and keep up the videos
Nick always a fun time in your shop. Thanks for all the great lesson Pro and con.
Thanks homie.
Love the color potential.
Thanks for the education!
my wife and I love your channel. we got the d1 pro and I'm trying to figure out how to get the alignment just right. I'm trying to engrave bicycle stem caps about 1.25 in circles. Love to see you do it or help us out with a tutorial.
i got mine a week ago and since this comment is more than a year old you probably have your answer. but just a quick thought after reading your message is just to measure the complete width of the stem cap. put that on a template and cut it out on a board thats squared against your frame (so you have a lot of little circles). then just place your stem caps in each circle, raise the head so its at stem cap level and then turn off the output on the circles in the software and put yoru design inside that circle. should be pretty repeatable.
Stainless steel test is cool! Do you have framing problems with XCS? My pro frames in lightburn but not XCS. Firmware and software up to date.
The only framing problem I had was one of the limit switches triggering too early. I turned them off.
@@BuildDadBuild interesting. Didn’t have that problem. Flame sensor is very sensitive and I can’t complete a test grid in lightburn with it on its lowest setting. Will have to turn it off.
Another Great Video. I would try using some good magnets and the metal cutting bead as a heat sink.
Hey, that was really awesome, love the colour work, haven't got my machine yet, next weeks the mark, but loving all the vids... might be a stupid question but wouldn't copper be easier to bring up the multi colours on?
I saw on some one else's video, they screwed the metal down to a wood block then laser'd it. just make the square a little bigger then trim the screw holes off.
Nick my guy, love your videos as always !! Shared and liked
Thanks, homie!
@@BuildDadBuild no doubt brother!!
Just purchased the D1 Pro. Can you do color engraving on stainless steel tumblers? Really enjoy your channel!
Hello Nick, I saw a video about the warp problem, and they suggested using a honeycomb base to help dissipate the heat quicker, which should reduce the amount of warping. This or securing your work on spacers to provide a gap below your work. I hope this helps and thanks for sharing with us.
I'd love to see you do an update with the newly updated XCS software. They've seemingly made some great improvements. I'm still learning to use these machines.
Interesting. Your settings are much different than mine. I will try again on aluminum (didn't have much luck) but high polish stainless (lightly scuffed) I have been able to gets blues, browns and blacks but nothing else. I NEED yellow, lol. On the Atezr site they actually show a full pallet of colors at different speeds but i have not been able to produce the same results. It's interesting that your squares differer by about 2% in power. But your set-up is much different where everything is run at 0.10 where mine is varying amounts here but all the same mm/m (or mm/s). I'll give your set-up a shot and see if it will finally pull through.
It's funny, eventhough these (I have the Atezr L2) can burn color I have NOT found too many videos on it...
I would love to see which power and speed settings make which colors on the different materials to have a baseline to start with. I would also appreciate a video on how to ungroup on light burn.
Just look at the layer color on his canvas and reference the speed and power settings with that portion of the design to the actual engraving he did and you should have your answer I would think
Is the d1 pro 10w can make some colors like you did ? Or I should buy 20w ? Thank you
I don’t think the 10W can achieve those colors.
Super cool work! Really curious how the burn holds up to cleaning or washing if I wanted to do it to a cup or tumbler ? Wonderful work! Thanks for great content!
Should be all good. It’s marked into the metal.
You should laser a matt black metal pegboard from Wall Control! Laser some topography on it, that would be awesome!
Tell them to send me some! LOL
@@BuildDadBuild I’ll send you one! Lol
have you set your max and min pwr settings in LB. As you probably know, it will cut power a little at corners to avoid hot spots and color changes.
Start watching the video while waiting on a project to run and you mention out of focus... The oh shit moment when I realize I forgot to focus my laser lol
Hey Nick. great vids. got the D1 and should of waited till the pro :( . just my luck but great vids :)
Ditto ! Once the D1 pays for itself Pro us next ! Had my D1 for about 6 months and still on my learning curve
Hey Nick, found your channel a couple of months back, love the content. Find myself living vicariously through your channel until the wife gives me the green light to invest in a laser.
I have seen videos of people cutting metal with 20 watt diode lasers. This is something I have heard repeatedly can't be done. One of your first test grids looked like it might have started to. Can you verify and is it at all practical for projects? Figured it would be a question/challenge that would be right up your alley.
I haven't heard or seen anyone cutting metal with a diode...
ruclips.net/video/xwoYhRCM-bo/видео.html
Liked the video. Can you try to etch chrome sockets? I’m thinking about getting the Xtool pro to etch all of our tooling at work. But I can’t find if it will effectively mark chrome tools.
I have not successfully marked chrome.
Dude u ok a video holy crap!!!!!!!
Sorry brother. Had some personal stuff to deal with.
Hey man great video, just got a XTool 20w and all of you videos I have watched have been extremely helpful, thanks alot!!! What material thickness did you use for the stainless???
It’s 2mm
@@BuildDadBuild Thanks!!!
Hi! I just got a d1 pro 20w and I’m having trouble with engraving on tumblers… do you have any settings on possibly where to start at?
I don't. Other than the grid in this video. You might want to try a marking spray.
I am looking to laser passwords into Titian or stainless steel. Do you think the laser engraving would withstand a house fire or would be hard to rub off? Thank u for your input.
Im not sure if they would hold up to the heat. The laser is just annealing the metal. I think you're looking for a high powered fiber laser or a CNC that can engrave metal.
Hmmm what if you slap the metal on a damp sponge? Maybe it’ll keep temps cooler while running laser so the metal won’t warp .
Excellent video! Have you ever tried to do different colors like you did in this video on a stainless steel tumbler or flask or does it only work well on flat surfaces?
Hven't tried. My understanding is "results may vary..."
@@BuildDadBuild would be cool to try doing some team logos with 2 or 3 colors. Gonna play around with it. If you end up ever doing one, let me know how it turned out. Your videos are very helpful!
Question: why are you not using some 2-sided tape to hold down the metal to keep any warping from impeding the head movement? I’m not criticizing, I’m wondering… I’m looking to buy and I appreciate your testing and experimentation! Cheers
Didn't occur to me.
I think the heat might be too much for the adhesive though.
Cheers
What stainless steel did you finally go with? Type, thickness, source?
amzn.to/3EKJq1E
What software did you use to adjust the colors?
Hey Nick hope all is well my question is if i have everything in LightBurn in mm/m does that mean i a screwing when i send it to the D1 Pro? or the machine puts out what you feed thanks in advance
Lightburn will convert to inches if you go into the menus. The G-Code is all the same.
I am having issues with D1 pro 20 watt etching glass tumblers. What settings do you use. I have been using the galvanize spray and my it does not etch, it looks almost like it burns thr glass and leaves the image brown/blackish. I am using thr creative space software and have tried stainless tag, coated metal, and my own user settings.
You’ll need to run a speed and power grid. I haven’t done this technique on the 20W
I wonder if a cooling fan across the piece would help keep it from bowing, or mount it on a larger piece of metal below to act as a heatsink.
Isn’t the heat what makes the metal change color?
Would using double sides tape or hold downs help.
Hello, I hope you can help me, what is the difference between the xtool d1 10w and the xtool d1 10w pro should I change to the pro?
The pro is the updated version of the D1. The D1 is a legacy machine and is no longer supported by xTool.
@@BuildDadBuild But the power of the laser is the same or is the pro more powerful? And thank you for your help
@@pacoesquivel43 no a 10W laser is a 10W laser...you can purchase higher wattages...
@@BuildDadBuild great
Where can I go to find a break down on how to use lightburn with the D1? Laserbox was straight forward.
@louisianahobbyguy is your go to for all things Lightburn
Vinster smash!
Awesome content! Like watching your videos!! Can you give the setting in details section??
I think I ran the test grid in the video, didn't I?
When u engrave stainless steel can u feel the depth with your fingers or it just feels etched? Thanks!
No it just marks the steel.
What are you using for the plates to engrave on and where can I get some?
amazon.
Is it too powerful to do the lighter work of the W10 like cutting paper and etching leather or would two different machines be needed for that type of range?
No. You can still cut the thin stuff.
Planning to purchase an X-Tool. I want to engrave on my aluminum 80% lowers.
So far the videos I have seen you are engraving on steel. How does the X tool do with aluminum?
Need marking spray for aluminum.
Hi Nick
Have you tried the burn scale using the 10 watts unit? I tried but could not mark the stainless even at very LOW speed and 100% power!!!
I have not. But considering the low speeds I used with the 20W, that doesn't surprise me.
Will this also cut thin metals like 22guage Sterling or Copper? Thanks
No
Hey Nick, I'm trying to get into color marking on stainless and titanium but not spending MOPA or Fiber money just yet. Would the 40w xtool give me more colors than the 20w? What would be your recommendation? Also...great channel man! I've been looking through videos constantly but keep making my way back to yours.
Yes...the 40W does a much better job at colors on metal.
@@BuildDadBuild I appreciate the quick response! I've been told by a few Redditors that the color marking is a gimmick and it is hard to duplicate it on 2 objects. Your thoughts?
It's a precise focus thing. Reddit is a cesspool...LOL
@@BuildDadBuild fair enough. haha. I appreciate the input and hope to be as good as you one day at this laser stuff!
Hi Nick. Did you coat the stainless with anything.
Nope
Hey Nick. Where did you get your metal blanks?
onlinemetal.com and amazon
I would try using a tick aluminum backer to disapate the heat.
In Lightburn, what do you have for you lines per inch for marking metal?
Whatever the default is, I’ve never changed it.
Just wondering are you using the 20w or the IR?
Check the title of the video. 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey Brother! Would a tray with water 💧 stop the warpage on thin sheet metal imagining. I’ve been watching your vids on the D1… might get one later this year.
I could...not sure.
My dog looks exactly like yours same color, but mine is a girl!❤
Thank you for the research.
Anyone know if you can engrave on stainless steel tumblers?
Im completely new to laser cutting and engraving. How does the laser mark with color? Is it temperature driven? Meaning, does it produce different colors at different temperatures? Can you color mark on wood? Say for example white text on a wooden background? Thanks for sharing.
It anneals the metal.
@BuildDadBuild Thanks. The reason I ask is because I saw a project where text on wood was white. I thought this amazing since I thought all engraving was done with a burned look. Is white text on wood possible, or was this painted afterward?
@@603VIL You can't "laser etch" in color on wood.
Does anyone know if these laser engravers will colorize aluminum?
May I ask if it can cut 3mm acrylic ? solid colors and semi transparent...
Some colors and very lightly transparent acrylic.
@@BuildDadBuild thank you
Hello. I’m curious about how long it took to cut out the skull you did in your other video. I’m looking at the d1 pro, but interested to see the cut times.
I’m not sure what skill you are talk about. I cut a lot of skulls.
@@BuildDadBuild it was in the video before you announced the winners video.
2:11 - ok, so where did you get the iron man emblem for your button? That’s pretty sweet. I have the gray one so a War Machine would look great! 😁
Amazon of course!
amzn.to/3Vnbygj
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild Crazy fast reply. Thanks! I just got my laser so I look forward to tuning into your channel. 💪🏻
Have you tried this with the 40w yet?
No, but xTool has. You can see the results on their webpage.
Where do you get the thicker SS and Ti?
LOL...Amazon
Hi Nick, looking at the speed setting you showed in the video (fist set) the speed does not match ( mm/min vs. mm/sec)!
You have one label2000 mm/min and 18 mm/sec, it should be 33 (2000/60).
Look to the right of the settings. Lightburn has pre labelled some of their work layers.
I used my laser on leather when I first got it and it was an epic fail until I realized I had the settings wong lol
like a kid on xmas eve I'm waiting for Laser Santa to drop mine down the chimney. So, obviously i don't jack yet really. BUT, I wonder...if time isn't a factor, could you not engrave in shorter segments allowing for the heat to dissipate? I know you can STOP. Can you PAUSE? FWIW, I liked the ones with a little bit of smoky oranges and browns.
Nobody wants to wait for that.
Hi Nick, how long did those skulls take?
45 minutes
@@BuildDadBuild thats fantastic!
I want to see this on a plain tumbler
Love the videos but I have to ask.. whats with the black fingernail polish? Also, can you share your test grid for the 20w with lightburn please. Thank you!
I generated that grid in Lightburn
Laser Tools >> Material Test
@@BuildDadBuild Ok, but which were your parameters?
Would the 10 W laser do it at a slower speed
Yes, because it is the heat that is being applied to the metal that is causing the color change, not the laser itself. So if you were to run slower and at a higher power, you could get "discoloration" as well. It's all a matter of finding that sweet spot.
Love this... wonder if some large head panhead screws would hold it down while burning? Or screws with washers...
Why didn't you add lock-downs to your bed a that way you could lock the thin sheets down and stop them warping? Noel
Not sure. Sometimes when you’re going things for the first time you don’t really think of all the complications.
Sammy Hagar! I saw what you did there...
PUPPER!
can you tell me if you can make a line width .013" and .050" deep
it only marks the metal. It doesn't engrave it.
@@BuildDadBuild sorry, It would be in wood products
@@rgcrowman3188 Then absolutely
Super helpful vid. Thanks a lot. The question remaining is, did you really make out with it...😂😂😂
We're you using air assist?
Not on the metal.
Can this be accomplished using the Xtool M1 machine? That's what I have and would love to try this
I don't believe so. I think you need at least 20W
@@BuildDadBuild Bummer, I guess I'll try when I get a second machine
Please do an ungroup video, I haven't seen anyone do a video about it.
Can lightburn do inches per minute?
Yup
@@BuildDadBuild good! We're no longer under British rule and I refuse to adopt to their way of measuring lol.
Ha!
what's with the nails are ya trying to hide the one you hit with a hammer
A trick i use with my fiber laser is a cold wet rag and sometimes i freeze the rag to keep metal from warping . BTW cool vid
Good to know!
Since I can't get Enduramark here, can you make something with their Diamond Dust spray? I might have to get creative with delivery.
The diamond dust was the only one that I couldn't really get to work with the D1.
@@BuildDadBuild Good to know
hey dad, can you share pls the test file?
Don’t have it. But you can make your own in Lightburn.
òtimos resultados , mas o que adianta não compartilhar os parametros de configuração de velocidade e potencia do laser para cada cor .
Each laser is different.
Wait until the fiber laser comes out
🤘😎🍻
Nice work :)
Subbed :)
Would you mind share the test file (speed/power) ? :)
I'm just lazy i guess :P
Here is a link to the files I have on hand.
drive.google.com/drive/folders/10Opcir8qNVQ54swBGGp7Ua4gEKTrFa3Y?usp=sharing
Other than that, XCS and Lightburn both have tools to customize your own.
Cheers
thank you for share the files~@@BuildDadBuild
Can I get the files and settings for the dragon somehow?
I just googled the image. The settings are on screen in the video.
@@BuildDadBuild yeah I can’t find it lol
I would like to know how to ungroup in light burn
Select the image
Right Click >> trace image
Select the trace
Right Click > Ungroup
@@BuildDadBuild are you going to do a video on this
Hi, vielen Dank für das Video. Ich verstehe einfach nicht was ich falsch mache… ich lasse einen Test durch den anderen laufen aber auf meinem Stahl sieht man nichts. Ich habe mir den D1 pro 20w ja extra dafür gekauft. Bin noch Anfänger. Vielleicht hast du ja eine Idee. Vielen Dank schonmal und viele Grüße aus Deutschland. Dominik
Stellen Sie sicher, dass Sie ein Geschwindigkeits- und Stromnetz betreiben. Außerdem können Sie immer noch nur Edelstahl und Titan markieren
What if u have a CNC 20 w dial laser how would you do a test and what would I start with 10 to 100? On stainless steel