Oh my goodness, Kevin, you're helping me so much! I just acquired a 1948 TE20. It's sat for up to 20 years. I want to restore it and get it running again. There was anti-freeze and sludge in the oil pan, grass in the air cleaner, gas tank is bone dry and rusted, rats nest in the radiator housing, wiring is frayed and cracked, dirt is packed in every crevice. I could go on and on! I almost didn't know where to begin until I found you. Thank you! Do you have a pateon or something? I'm happy to pay for the advice I'm receiving!
@@72barracuda70 Hi, I don't have an actual diagram for Fergusons. Are you running an alternator or still on the genny? And does it still use the shifter switch to start?
Question, I have a 49 TO20 and someone put a switch start instead of the shifter start. It had already been switched to 12v, but the alternator won’t charge. I had it checked and the alternator is good. The switch has four posts acc, bat, ignition, start. It is wired with the alternator lead to the + side of ammeter and another wire from the + positive side of the ammeter to the positive post on battery. The negative side of the ammeter is wired to the bat on the switch. Is this the problem? It starts and runs fine but can’t get charging at the battery.
It should charge wired like that but the ammeter won't work. Move the ammeter to battery wire to the neg terminal of the ammeter. If your alternator has not been converted to one wire it needs the "exciting circuit"" added. It also needs to turn fast enough to start up even if it has been converted to one wire. It needs a very small pulley to work properly on a tractor. Here's another electrical video I made which explains the excite circuit. ruclips.net/video/92uPTGS1cSg/видео.html
Well done, great video👍👍👍 12:31
Thanks for watching!
Great job. Thanks for sharing 👍👍
Thanks for watching!!!!
Oh my goodness, Kevin, you're helping me so much! I just acquired a 1948 TE20. It's sat for up to 20 years. I want to restore it and get it running again. There was anti-freeze and sludge in the oil pan, grass in the air cleaner, gas tank is bone dry and rusted, rats nest in the radiator housing, wiring is frayed and cracked, dirt is packed in every crevice. I could go on and on! I almost didn't know where to begin until I found you. Thank you! Do you have a pateon or something? I'm happy to pay for the advice I'm receiving!
You are most kind. Best of luck with your project!
Nice! But I need to see how you are running your battery cables! The way I’m doing it. It looks like you don’t need the ignition to start it up…?
Here's some diagrams that could help you issuu.com/headstractors/docs/te20_generator_and_alternator_wirin
Love the old tractors but they got way too high to fix up anymore
Luckily I have had mine for 48 years now
If you stick with Fords and Fergs like I do its still not too expensive to have lots of fun.
Love the video wish u were closer to me i could use your expertise to help me restore or redo my 48 ford 8n and my 52 8n im from southeast, pa
Go to our FB page and message me any question, any time.
Kevin can you post a link with your wiring diagram for that fergy ? I’ve got a to-20 and i could use the diagram ?
It’s a 1954
@@72barracuda70 Hi, I don't have an actual diagram for Fergusons. Are you running an alternator or still on the genny? And does it still use the shifter switch to start?
Question, I have a 49 TO20 and someone put a switch start instead of the shifter start. It had already been switched to 12v, but the alternator won’t charge. I had it checked and the alternator is good. The switch has four posts acc, bat, ignition, start. It is wired with the alternator lead to the + side of ammeter and another wire from the + positive side of the ammeter to the positive post on battery. The negative side of the ammeter is wired to the bat on the switch. Is this the problem? It starts and runs fine but can’t get charging at the battery.
It should charge wired like that but the ammeter won't work. Move the ammeter to battery wire to the neg terminal of the ammeter. If your alternator has not been converted to one wire it needs the "exciting circuit"" added. It also needs to turn fast enough to start up even if it has been converted to one wire. It needs a very small pulley to work properly on a tractor. Here's another electrical video I made which explains the excite circuit. ruclips.net/video/92uPTGS1cSg/видео.html
👍👍👍👍
I would never bypass the safety switch on any ford tractor and I kept the switches in stock
It’s my way or I’m not even going to look at it period 😊