Hi Lance. From Lincolnshire UK. At 75 years I got my first tractor a Fergie TED 20 1950. Engine, front axle and steering box all restored. Your videos have helped me enormously. Thanks. Started on rear axle and the seals need replacing. Just watched your SURE SEAL vid.... saved the day. You are a great bloke . Thanks again.
Lance had a full week on my sun bed watching your TED20 videos and others. Never in my life have I been able to sit and not get board. Keep up the good work. I will be trying some of the jobs. Thanks again David
G Day David, Boy that sounds like something I should do but usually I have a list of things ahead I would like to do in the shed so I will just sneak a nap now and then.
Hey ,Bundy Bear nice job ,i have to do that on my massey ferguson, massey 20 industrial tractor one side is wet , i wanted to know if thats the same seal that will fit mine i would appreciate if you know the seal number if you could pass it this way, its a 1971,
Hello Lance, Just fitted mine and as you showed you really have to chase it around a fair bit with no success. I found if you put a large washer on a bolt to hold one side down it then becomes very easy to get the rest started and easy to fit. Regards Charles @ Nerimbera .
That's great Lance. This is something that I first did a couple of years ago and was surprised how easy it was to do. I think that a little clarification of what age tractors this is applicable for would be helpful, as you will know it is only needed for the early type Ferguson TE20 rear axles. The later ones (with grease nipples fitted) have a different type of seal arrangement, meaning that you just need to change the inner seal in the end of the trumpet housing.
G'day Lance that's a great idea that sure seal, it's great that you give other blokes encouragement. These videos you do are getting a lot better editing is good, even though I don't have a tractor I just like watching mechanical and machining. Regards John
Thanks John, I do put a bit into trying to make the videos more refined so to speak. Glad someone noticed lol. Encouraging people to have a go is what it is all about for me with tractor repairs, it is often no where near as difficult as some would have you believe. ( They all want to make a quid from you)
Very impressive video Lance.. Nice to see video that actually is very factual and helpful.. so many help videos out there with Dorks that seem to think there some kind of film stars that need attention and don't really help much.. Again excellent job Lance ...
Hows that.. I looked at doing the rear seal, decided too hard, placed an order for other stuff then this video played after I checkedout the other order. made a call and got these added to my current order. Good stuff.
I like the video on the TE20 sure seal fix but, I have not been able to install one on my 48 TE20 Ferguson. What seemed to be a simple seal fix turned into a lot of frustration. The seal seems to be pretty thin and easily damaged so maybe I have not used enough force to get it started. I was wondering if there is a seal that could be installed on the housing where the axle shaft end goes through? If there ever was one on mine, it has been removed and discarded. If you know of a seal at the housing, could you enlighten me on it and what the part number is. I did watch a video of another gentleman removing and installing a seal at the housing but I am not sure of the tractor model he was working on. Thanks for any info you may offer and please continue with your excellent videos. I suspect I am a tad older than you with a brain that is hard to keep up but you have certainly helped me tremendously on fixing my Ferguson. The very best to you and your family, thanks again.
No the inner seal was only an option for the later 19 spline tractors. They can be difficult to fit at times but a bit of pipe the correct size will help.
I read a comment about a gentleman fitting the sure seal using a oversize washer to hold one part of the seal in place. With that, I had a 3x2" x 1/4" flat stock and drilled a hole large enough to fit a bolt, to hold one side of the seal in place. I chased the rest around until the seal got tired and settled down enough for me to finish the job. It was a great idea and helped to finish the job. You have one of the best DIY tractor websites. Watching you at work is a lot better than watching the local crooked politicians at work. Thanks again for your expertise with fixing the old Ferguson and sharing your knowledge. Chief
Good one thanks lance, very helpful. When I put the half shaft back in the tractor. Is it one gasket only or one gasket each side of the back plate. Some say 2 and some say 1. Would like to know before I set up the end float. Thanks nick.
@@BundyBearsShed sorry for being a bit thick lance, so starting from the axel trumpet flange it's then the shims, then the gasket, then the brake back plate, then the half shaft flange. Thanks nick.
Another timely video. I have to fix the seals on my TO20 restoration. Are the original inner and outer seals still in place? I bought both inner and outer seals and the sure seals as well. What about replacing the originals and adding the sure seal for extra protection? I hate oil on my brakes. One guy I talked to said you have to shim the axles properly so I bought some shims too. I'm a guy who buys everything needed first then does the job.I find when I am waiting for parts or money, the job doesn't get done. A little extra explanation would help. I enjoy your videos and your personality, Thanks!
I have the video on the axle bearing and seal fitting this week some time, if there is a mark on the outer seal surface there is nothing at all wrong with adding some grease and fitting the sure seal. If it does no good will it do harm? In my opinion no so go for it. When I get to fitting the axle I will cover shims but it is very easy.
Any tips for freeing off the brake backplate / half shaft studs from end of the trumpet housing? (Not sure if i’ve used correct terms!) Can get the nuts off - but not free the axle! Thanks in advance!
Im not sure as the TO30 isnot a model we have here in Australia, On the Steiner website it says TE20 and TO20 so I dont think it will be suitable. If they are like our FE35 there is an inner axle seal that is easy to replace.
G Day Lloyd, The same seal fits the 2N and 9N ford tractors over your way as well. Now I'm thinking one of those tractors with the engine from the VW would look great lol.
So i have a TO-20 I would like to put 100% synthetic oil the motor do you know if i need a synthetic filter, If so do you sell them, if not can you point me in the right direction. Thank you.
I saw a comment on a TEF 20 restoration site advising against buying sure seals if your tractor has a serial no greater than 325000 because they don't fit as the design of the rear axle trumpets changed at 325001. I don't know if this is correct because I just changed bearings and seals as normal.
Sure seals are for the early 16 spline axles mostly as the later 19 spline has a seal in the trumpet housing the same as the 35 so yes they are correct.
Hi Lance, about to do this job but just wondering if there is any particular issue in removing the axle first from the tractor? For example do you need to drain the oil. Ive got my drum off so is it just the 6 bolts then pulls put? Cheers
Hi lance great video Just took axle out off t20 last night to replace Oil seal but now I will put a sure seal in it noticed a bit of movement in bearing is this normal Thanks Kevin
Goodevening, I love your videos they're a great help to me as I never worked on a tractor like that, just bought it a year ago & now working on it as I have time, but I'm not sure what Model it is, on the name plate it just says TE 43411 would you know what it is by that #? Thanks in advance.
I'm replacing a bearing assembly on my 49 rear axle TO20 will I have to heat the assembly first like you did with just the bearing. Or just set it and press it on. Thank you
@@BundyBearsShed ye, mines an older from factory DP3. Not that my videos are any good but I'm doing sumwat of a series on fixing it up a little, if you'd care to take a look, ruclips.net/p/PLA6o-yo9XQplUaD4H-j0wdmW2sqYKk4dV And fankyou for reading my comment.
That bearing needs to be PACKED full of grease not just smear some on top. I inject them with a grease needle. Also its best if you take the seal and grind a taper on the edge to help get it started.
No, that is not necessary. On the MF 135 for instance the bearing is smeared by the oil mist that leaks through the inner sealing. There is no grease in those bearings at all. Too much grease will generate heat and get pushed out onto the brakes.
G Day Jason, The grease I push in with my finger goes into the bearing rollers a bit and is enough for this job. This in bearing terms is a very slow moving bearing and the cavity does not need to be full to do the job. I went to a school on bearings one time and they discussed people popping the seals off a ball race to add more grease and they could prove they didn't last as long as the amount put there in assembly even though it looked to be a very small amount but it was enough to get the bearing through what was expected of it. It is like front wheel bearings just the bearing needs some not the cavity and after a few turns a lot of the grease is pushed or displaced by the rollers anyway. But in the long run do what works for you and what you are comfortable doing.
G day SLORIIFF, I agree and too much grease only gets displaced by the rollers in the first few turns anyhow. 400 HP tractors only have splash oil or grease pumped in at two pumps every 500 hrs so with good quality grease etc it doesn't need a lot.
G day Bill. I think they have been around for quite a while but I haven't used them much but they are a great idea if you don't want to go to the trouble to do the other job on them. Just remember a bit of grease into the bearing, you don't need a lot as they are very slow turning.
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Hi Lance. From Lincolnshire UK.
At 75 years I got my first tractor a Fergie TED 20 1950. Engine, front axle and steering box all restored.
Your videos have helped me enormously. Thanks.
Started on rear axle and the seals need replacing. Just watched your SURE SEAL vid.... saved the day.
You are a great bloke . Thanks again.
Thanks Robert Im glad it helped.
Hi Lance
Greetings from good old blighty.Have been doing up a 1952 TEF20 and have found your videos
a godsend,Thanks.
Mike
G Day Mike, Im glad you get something useful from them. Good hobby playing with old tractors.
Lance had a full week on my sun bed watching your TED20 videos and others. Never in my life have I been able to sit and not get board. Keep up the good work. I will be trying some of the jobs. Thanks again David
G Day David, Boy that sounds like something I should do but usually I have a list of things ahead I would like to do in the shed so I will just sneak a nap now and then.
Hey ,Bundy Bear nice job ,i have to do that on my massey ferguson, massey 20 industrial tractor one side is wet , i wanted to know if thats the same seal that will fit mine i would appreciate if you know the seal number if you could pass it this way, its a 1971,
No a MF20 has a inner axle seal look up my Massey Ferguson 135 6 speed playlist, it is exaclty the same as the 135.
Thanks Lance, off to order a couple of seals now Cheers, and thanks for these videos they have been a great help.
Glad to help
Hello Lance, Just fitted mine and as you showed you really have to chase it around a fair bit with no success. I found if you put a large washer on a bolt to hold one side down it then becomes very easy to get the rest started and easy to fit. Regards Charles @ Nerimbera .
Nice work!
That's great Lance. This is something that I first did a couple of years ago and was surprised how easy it was to do. I think that a little clarification of what age tractors this is applicable for would be helpful, as you will know it is only needed for the early type Ferguson TE20 rear axles. The later ones (with grease nipples fitted) have a different type of seal arrangement, meaning that you just need to change the inner seal in the end of the trumpet housing.
Yes I do mention that and in the video coming in a few days we cover the inner seal as well. Hopefully it will be understandable.
I'm really appreciating these videos. the seals are a great find.
Glad you like them!
G'day Lance that's a great idea that sure seal, it's great that you give other blokes encouragement. These videos you do are getting a lot better editing is good, even though I don't have a tractor I just like watching mechanical and machining. Regards John
Thanks John, I do put a bit into trying to make the videos more refined so to speak. Glad someone noticed lol. Encouraging people to have a go is what it is all about for me with tractor repairs, it is often no where near as difficult as some would have you believe. ( They all want to make a quid from you)
Very impressive video Lance.. Nice to see video that actually is very factual and helpful.. so many help videos out there with Dorks that seem to think there some kind of film stars that need attention and don't really help much.. Again excellent job Lance ...
Glad it was helpful!
Hows that.. I looked at doing the rear seal, decided too hard, placed an order for other stuff then this video played after I checkedout the other order. made a call and got these added to my current order. Good stuff.
Sounds good.
Thanks Lance, very informative indeed. I have a 1948 TEA20 do you know if sure seals would be suitable for my tractor.
Yes yours would be a 16 spline tractor so it would work for sure.
Well done Lance ,I didn`t know that Sure Seal existed
G Day Dave, They are a good quick fix for the early model tractors. Easy to fit as well.
I like the video on the TE20 sure seal fix but, I have not been able to install one on my 48 TE20 Ferguson. What seemed to be a simple seal fix turned into a lot of frustration. The seal seems to be pretty thin and easily damaged so maybe I have not used enough force to get it started. I was wondering if there is a seal that could be installed on the housing where the axle shaft end goes through? If there ever was one on mine, it has been removed and discarded. If you know of a seal at the housing, could you enlighten me on it and what the part number is. I did watch a video of another gentleman removing and installing a seal at the housing but I am not sure of the tractor model he was working on. Thanks for any info you may offer and please continue with your excellent videos. I suspect I am a tad older than you with a brain that is hard to keep up but you have certainly helped me tremendously on fixing my Ferguson. The very best to you and your family, thanks again.
No the inner seal was only an option for the later 19 spline tractors. They can be difficult to fit at times but a bit of pipe the correct size will help.
I read a comment about a gentleman fitting the sure seal using a oversize washer to hold one part of the seal in place. With that, I had a 3x2" x 1/4" flat stock and drilled a hole large enough to fit a bolt, to hold one side of the seal in place. I chased the rest around until the seal got tired and settled down enough for me to finish the job. It was a great idea and helped to finish the job. You have one of the best DIY tractor websites. Watching you at work is a lot better than watching the local crooked politicians at work. Thanks again for your expertise with fixing the old Ferguson and sharing your knowledge. Chief
Thanks for your video. I had this problem and I orderd the seals here in Holland. It's a much easier sollution. Greetings
Great 👍
Thanks Lance for your Old School knowledge , I guess this will work on a 1953 TO 30 right ???
G Day Charles, Yes it should I believe.
Good one thanks lance, very helpful. When I put the half shaft back in the tractor. Is it one gasket only or one gasket each side of the back plate. Some say 2 and some say 1. Would like to know before I set up the end float. Thanks nick.
Usually 1 between the axle seal housing and the backing plate and only shims to the rear.
@@BundyBearsShed sorry for being a bit thick lance, so starting from the axel trumpet flange it's then the shims, then the gasket, then the brake back plate, then the half shaft flange. Thanks nick.
Another timely video. I have to fix the seals on my TO20 restoration. Are the original inner and outer seals still in place? I bought both inner and outer seals and the sure seals as well. What about replacing the originals and adding the sure seal for extra protection? I hate oil on my brakes. One guy I talked to said you have to shim the axles properly so I bought some shims too. I'm a guy who buys everything needed first then does the job.I find when I am waiting for parts or money, the job doesn't get done. A little extra explanation would help. I enjoy your videos and your personality, Thanks!
I have the video on the axle bearing and seal fitting this week some time, if there is a mark on the outer seal surface there is nothing at all wrong with adding some grease and fitting the sure seal. If it does no good will it do harm? In my opinion no so go for it.
When I get to fitting the axle I will cover shims but it is very easy.
Quick question, I have a early te20, so if there isn't a seal behind the bearing what stops the oil from washing out the grease in the bearing?
Nothing at all and it can wash a bit.
@@BundyBearsShed okay, many thanks
Any tips for freeing off the brake backplate / half shaft studs from end of the trumpet housing? (Not sure if i’ve used correct terms!)
Can get the nuts off - but not free the axle! Thanks in advance!
Just soak with CRC and work away at bumping the backing plate off. They do rust in at times.
@@BundyBearsShedThank you 🙂
They have those seals for N series Fords as well. My 9N really needs them.
G day newtsfarm, Yes they are the very same seal and not expensive to buy at all.
Just wondering when fitting a sure seal do you have to remove the old seal from the diff end ? Thanks
If you have a tractor with the inner seal you dont need the sure seal, just replace the inner seal and you should be good to go.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks so much for your advice kind regards Simon
Thank you Lance. Cheers Roy.
Can I use the same "Sure Seal" for a 1954 Ferguson TO30? It look identical to the TO20.
Im not sure as the TO30 isnot a model we have here in Australia, On the Steiner website it says TE20 and TO20 so I dont think it will be suitable. If they are like our FE35 there is an inner axle seal that is easy to replace.
Hi Lance I'm working on a tef 20 with the rear axle seals .Can I fit the sure seal with the Innerseal in place thanks keep up the fantastic work mate
G day Craig, No they only work on the early axle. The inner axle seals are easy to replace though
@@BundyBearsShed thank you so much Lance Great help merry Christmas mate 👍
Thanks I'll look that up!!
Sounds good.
Nice job Lance, Thanks for sharing this. I haven't seen that seal before.
G Day Lloyd, The same seal fits the 2N and 9N ford tractors over your way as well. Now I'm thinking one of those tractors with the engine from the VW would look great lol.
So i have a TO-20 I would like to put 100% synthetic oil the motor do you know if i need a synthetic filter, If so do you sell them, if not can you point me in the right direction.
Thank you.
Just a normal filter is fine.
@@BundyBearsShed Thank you so much, eased my mind appreciate your time.
Hi Lance, Kent here in Morrow Ohio. Will this seal work on a TO20 axle?
Yes I believe so.
I saw a comment on a TEF 20 restoration site advising against buying sure seals if your tractor has a serial no greater than 325000 because they don't fit as the design of the rear axle trumpets changed at 325001. I don't know if this is correct because I just changed bearings and seals as normal.
Sure seals are for the early 16 spline axles mostly as the later 19 spline has a seal in the trumpet housing the same as the 35 so yes they are correct.
Now then Lance. Must be one of the occasions where progress really helps (unlike the computers on modern ones eh).
G day Malc, Yes these have been around for a while, The only good thing about a computer for a Nuffield would be to look a few parts up eh lol.
Exactly right :)
Hi Lance, about to do this job but just wondering if there is any particular issue in removing the axle first from the tractor? For example do you need to drain the oil. Ive got my drum off so is it just the 6 bolts then pulls put? Cheers
Usually the oil level is low enough but if in doubt drop it. Yes just pull it out.
Ok, will dive in
will these work on a 1950 TO20 US TRACTOR
Yes I believe so.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks and thanks for the informative vids
hi Lance really enjoy your videos have you ever worked on a Ford super dexta steering wheel shaft thank you
G Day Mirko, Yes but it would be a while ago now, very similar to the Fergy 35.
Hi lance great video
Just took axle out off t20 last night to replace Oil seal but now I will put a sure seal in it noticed a bit of movement in bearing is this normal
Thanks
Kevin
Kevin McMullan yes on the bench it is normal for sure
Goodevening, I love your videos they're a great help to me as I never worked on a tractor like that, just bought it a year ago & now working on it as I have time, but I'm not sure what Model it is, on the name plate it just says TE 43411 would you know what it is by that #? Thanks in advance.
If it just has YE it could be a continental engine, is the oil filler cap at the front or rear of the block?
Great vidio
I done this but found that the seal went down maybe 5 mil before touching seal is this ok
G Day kevin, you need to push it down but not to the extent that it hits the retaining collar. Apart from the there shouldn't be a problem.
I'm replacing a bearing assembly on my 49 rear axle TO20 will I have to heat the assembly first like you did with just the bearing. Or just set it and press it on. Thank you
Heat is the way to go I find.
@@BundyBearsShed thank you
I received my bearings assembly today and I thought it would be one piece. And you used a chip fryer correct.
Is this a good long term fix or would I be better off spending the extra time to replace the outside seal to stop my tractor from leaking?
Good for long term without worry.
Hi Lance ,
Mate I got a leak on the lower linkage arms pins on a TEA20 , can’t find any info regarding how to get at these . Any advice would be great
I did a video on the FE35 grey and gold tractor series and on the MF135 6 speed. You can do both pins from the left hand side.
I've got a te20 that I've just tooken the half shat off of and it doesn't have a seal like that, other wise it's completely simular.
Some do some dont as there was a 16 spline axle and a 19 spline one.
@@BundyBearsShed ye, mines an older from factory DP3.
Not that my videos are any good but I'm doing sumwat of a series on fixing it up a little, if you'd care to take a look,
ruclips.net/p/PLA6o-yo9XQplUaD4H-j0wdmW2sqYKk4dV
And fankyou for reading my comment.
Would it be beneficial to lightly pack the seal cup before tapping it home?
It wouldnt do any harm so yes go for it.
@@BundyBearsShed ruclips.net/video/5DgAPpdnVhY/видео.html
Here's one of my Machines. 1949 Petrol.
I done this weekend, what bitch to get started!
Hi Lance can that sure seal be bought here in Ireland in a tractor suppliers, or is it just available through Sparex in Australia.Cheers,Jimmy.
You should be able to get them from Sparex dealers or Quality Tractor Parts dealers in Ireland.
Thanks Lance.
Thank You Thank You
Thanks Allen.
That bearing needs to be PACKED full of grease not just smear some on top. I inject them with a grease needle. Also its best if you take the seal and grind a taper on the edge to help get it started.
No, that is not necessary. On the MF 135 for instance the bearing is smeared by the oil mist that leaks through the inner sealing. There is no grease in those bearings at all. Too much grease will generate heat and get pushed out onto the brakes.
G Day Jason, The grease I push in with my finger goes into the bearing rollers a bit and is enough for this job. This in bearing terms is a very slow moving bearing and the cavity does not need to be full to do the job. I went to a school on bearings one time and they discussed people popping the seals off a ball race to add more grease and they could prove they didn't last as long as the amount put there in assembly even though it looked to be a very small amount but it was enough to get the bearing through what was expected of it. It is like front wheel bearings just the bearing needs some not the cavity and after a few turns a lot of the grease is pushed or displaced by the rollers anyway. But in the long run do what works for you and what you are comfortable doing.
G day SLORIIFF, I agree and too much grease only gets displaced by the rollers in the first few turns anyhow. 400 HP tractors only have splash oil or grease pumped in at two pumps every 500 hrs so with good quality grease etc it doesn't need a lot.
awesome
Thanks
do they make them for 53 TO30?
No it does not look like they do.
think i will have a go at that why did they not have them 20 years ago lol
G day Bill. I think they have been around for quite a while but I haven't used them much but they are a great idea if you don't want to go to the trouble to do the other job on them. Just remember a bit of grease into the bearing, you don't need a lot as they are very slow turning.