Nice. I thought I was nitpicking about not getting a whole bunch of different colours in wire. Certainly keep the temperature of the esc in mind when soldering.
Wow I felt like I just went from zero to pro by watching this. Now I know my end results (me not having built an RC anything in 20 years) are going to be so much better. This end result was CRISP. I will literally watch this step by step when wiring up my electronics. Thank you so so much for a great video that will help me very very much! Subscribed
Sorry to be so off topic but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any help you can give me!
First time soldering after 10 years of being out of the hobby it looks terrible. Thank you for this video especially for guys like me walking into Lipo for a first time.
what kind of solder did you use, would any 60/40 work or is there a better product out there for this specific application? is it necessary/beneficial to use with flux?
Why don’t you use a clamp on your wires when tinning them? It keeps it in place and prevents the solder from flowing into the wire which makes it a hard inflexible block.
what a tutorial that help me alot to understand how is installation is really help me as a im new with this hobby btw can i ask you something i just buy a new servo but its rotate 360 degress is it posible to used in car?? looking forawrd for your unswer have a good day thank you
Great video!! 2 questions for you - 1) where did you get the heat shrink wrap you put on the esc to motor wires? I can't find them anywhere. 2) My ESC is a reedy, and my receiver is by HItec, the receiver is kind of wide and the receiver, esc and capacitors have a tight fit on the plate. Is it OK for it to be a tight fit touching each other? Any ideas on how to place them so they don't touch? Can the receiver stand on its side? THANKS SO MUCH!!!!
Should'nt you start with the longest wire, then cut them ALL to the SAME length? I do it that way anyways, my thought being consistent resistance on each wire... thoughts?
And I watched this thinking he was gonna show me some neat way to bundle light kit wires or something. For maybe a drift car or scale crawler with brake, sound, high low beams, blinkers, winch, steering wheel servo, ect. This was just a track buggy ESC motor combo instal. And that should probably be the video title. Anyhow. I would suggest not using lexan body snips to cut and strip wires. This actually ends up cutting wire strands making that 13 gauge a 14 or even 15 guage. And also ruining the fine edge on the lexan body snips. Instead use a box cutter or razor blade to lightly roll around the wire, and score the silicon wire coating. Taking care not to actually cut through the coating, but just very lightly roll over it with the blade. Then just simply pull on the end of the wire, and it will pull off at the score. Using wire strippers also cuts through wire strands as well.
Very educational. Could you please also state what temperature should be used and what tip ist the best for this kind of work? Also, what tin solder is used? I got an Ersa 80 rds. Is this good enough for this job?
When it comes to soldering QUALITY wire, more is always more. I find a temperature of 600° to be most ideal because it heats everything up almost instantly so you place your leads where they need to go once tinned, apply a touch of flux to help carry heat through everything instantaneously AND assist with leaving a mirror-like sheen to your joints.
where did you get that front "wing"? Is it something you fabricated out of something else, or can you buy it somewhere? I'd like one for my Kyosho MP9e....
Nice vid but I personally would have a bigger soldering tip with more solder on it so you don't end up with loads of little bubbles making up the solder, a 40w weller is great for soldering motor wires, that's what I use, and your crimper isn't ideal, mine crimps all at the same time and you put the connector into the crimper, close it till you hear 2 clicks then insert wire and crimp, crimper HT-225D, i got mine at cpc farnell, on soldering it's better if it all melts at the same time and creates one single solder mound / bubble
That's only so if you're using a weak or hobby grade soldering iron. If you have a quality iron, it'll work quickly regardless of what's touching the wire/lead.
Is it safe/good idea to mount esc-receiver wire below esc? When thinking about chassis flex maybe it is so centered area that it doesn't ruin the wire...? Otherwise very nice tutorial!
2:42 uhh my ESC came with perfectly good wires already soldered on, why should i take them off? 4:50 noooo, all hes doing is dumping solder down a good inch of the wire with it pointing up in the air like that. thank god associated manuals are better than the trash they upload to youtube
you are relying waaaayy too much on double sided tape...I'd want the receiver and speed controller at least ziptied to that carbon plate to assure they never move while running the buggy...same with the motor fan...
You can be a newb and use Zip ties while the rest of us will use quality tape like the 3M he's using. Good luck trying to remove anything you stick down with it, especially on a nice glossy finish like the receiver tray like he did.
You used way too much solder when tinning the leads. You only want to coat the very end al the way around. You fed solder into the wire, stiffening it up at least .25" which creates unnecessary resistance. You also didn't solder the leads onto the ESC properly either. You should clean off ALL the Solder from the ESC ports and then you can slide the leads into the holes and solder from the bottom which is how the factory does it for a perfect solder. Each port should have a shiny bubble of solder just like from the factory. Get a wire stripper and CLEAN your tip!!!
You should always point the wire down when tinning. This keeps excess solder from feeding too far up the length of the wire keeping the wire from getting stiff. It doesnt add resistance, it's just an inconvenience. To get a good solder joint on the speed control, apply solder to a single terminal at a time and attach the wire without removing the iron from the terminal. Once the solder cools, it will never melt the same because the solder flux has evaporated.
I strip wires everyday multiple times, this guy cleans them like a pro. Well done bro.
Nice. I thought I was nitpicking about not getting a whole bunch of different colours in wire.
Certainly keep the temperature of the esc in mind when soldering.
Wow I felt like I just went from zero to pro by watching this. Now I know my end results (me not having built an RC anything in 20 years) are going to be so much better. This end result was CRISP. I will literally watch this step by step when wiring up my electronics. Thank you so so much for a great video that will help me very very much! Subscribed
Sorry to be so off topic but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any help you can give me!
@Judah Alberto Instablaster ;)
That solder tip and jig gets you 80% of the way there. Very nice video.
Nick, You are SUPER, such pro work & top ideas, Thank you❗
I have probably watch this 10 times now. Thank you very much for taking the time to put this video together.
Yo I appreciate this was three years....Much appreciated man just what I was looking for...thanks again dude
First time soldering after 10 years of being out of the hobby it looks terrible. Thank you for this video especially for guys like me walking into Lipo for a first time.
Great few tips and tricks in this video! I need some terminal ends and a crimp tool now!
Just getting started thank you I never solder a RC much aloha all way from Hawaii ✝️✡️🇺🇸🤙✌️
DOPE! Cheers from the UK!
Great video! I’m new to soldering ESCs, so this definitely cleared up a lot of questions I had. 👍
You make that look so easy! GREAT WORK?
YOU'RE A STUD BRO. AWESOME VIDEO & 'HOW-TO.' MUCH THANX!
That was a perfect tutorial man! Thanks heaps for the full install!
the intro music caught me SUPER offguard lol... good vid!
That's Absolutely Awesome. I'm picking my New B6.1 DL soon. That's very helpful to know. Thank you.
dude! that's the best tutorial I've seen! thank you
Sweet! But, did anyone else cringe when he came out with the body scissors for wire cutting. Cardinal sin at my house! :p
And No wire stripper! SMH
Gotta get it done with what ya got
Can't say I've never done similar, but I was expecting better with this being a Team Associated vid.
what kind of solder did you use, would any 60/40 work or is there a better product out there for this specific application? is it necessary/beneficial to use with flux?
Awesome video,very well done
Why don’t you use a clamp on your wires when tinning them? It keeps it in place and prevents the solder from flowing into the wire which makes it a hard inflexible block.
Nice job
what a tutorial that help me alot to understand how is installation is really help me as a im new with this hobby btw can i ask you something i just buy a new servo but its rotate 360 degress is it posible to used in car?? looking forawrd for your unswer have a good day thank you
Great video
Where did you get your jig you're holding your esc in also your pick tool ??
What solder do you use? And also what Power iron?
NIce job, Do you have a video specifically to choosing,installing servos? I have a 6.1 and am new to this platform. thanks
I have a gold pan that needs to be wired up. Can I send it to you to wire it up?
Thanks for your help. Associated builds quality stuff and great support like this.
Excellent video
What is the name of that soldering jig that you have the silver looking one?
Awesome video! Thank you for this. Anyone know who makes that cable management heat shrink tubing?
Just looks like maybe 2/0, maybe 1/0, heat shrink available at any auto parts store.
Great information. You always have super, clean builds. What size tip were you using on soldering iron? Thanks
What solder did you use? Thanks!
Love your video what size soldiering tips you using
I made it the same way, and it's very educational.
Awesome video Nick
Where did you run the antenna wire?
Looks so clean just how I like mine 👍😎
STEVO D 313 Kevin Talbot is an idiot
Excellent. Thank you.
Great vid! Helps a ton. 👏👏👏
28:19 Haha that was the hardest part of the whole video 😂😂
Great video!! 2 questions for you - 1) where did you get the heat shrink wrap you put on the esc to motor wires? I can't find them anywhere. 2) My ESC is a reedy, and my receiver is by HItec, the receiver is kind of wide and the receiver, esc and capacitors have a tight fit on the plate. Is it OK for it to be a tight fit touching each other? Any ideas on how to place them so they don't touch? Can the receiver stand on its side? THANKS SO MUCH!!!!
i need tutorial like this, and on a hour ago youtube give me this vid. cool. thank's
We need more how-to videos. Many of the videos are so old..😂
A 7.5 turn motor? Dear lord man that fast.
Should'nt you start with the longest wire, then cut them ALL to the SAME length? I do it that way anyways, my thought being consistent resistance on each wire... thoughts?
And I watched this thinking he was gonna show me some neat way to bundle light kit wires or something. For maybe a drift car or scale crawler with brake, sound, high low beams, blinkers, winch, steering wheel servo, ect. This was just a track buggy ESC motor combo instal. And that should probably be the video title. Anyhow. I would suggest not using lexan body snips to cut and strip wires. This actually ends up cutting wire strands making that 13 gauge a 14 or even 15 guage. And also ruining the fine edge on the lexan body snips. Instead use a box cutter or razor blade to lightly roll around the wire, and score the silicon wire coating. Taking care not to actually cut through the coating, but just very lightly roll over it with the blade. Then just simply pull on the end of the wire, and it will pull off at the score. Using wire strippers also cuts through wire strands as well.
Great video thanks. Please do more like this
I was stoked to watch this video to clean up my wiring but than my brand new controller didn’t work. Car is going back in the corner I guess
Very educational.
Could you please also state what temperature should be used and what tip ist the best for this kind of work?
Also, what tin solder is used?
I got an Ersa 80 rds. Is this good enough for this job?
patrickrebmann more powerful the better.
When it comes to soldering QUALITY wire, more is always more. I find a temperature of 600° to be most ideal because it heats everything up almost instantly so you place your leads where they need to go once tinned, apply a touch of flux to help carry heat through everything instantaneously AND assist with leaving a mirror-like sheen to your joints.
You can put in the battery in two ways, so you could still plug it in incorrectly...
what was good, thanks for the tips. Nice video
I can see myself soddering my fingers shut..can i just build the kit then just send it in for that factory finish?
where did you get that front "wing"? Is it something you fabricated out of something else, or can you buy it somewhere? I'd like one for my Kyosho MP9e....
Really awesome. Thanks.
Damn that’s minty!…
Nice vid but I personally would have a bigger soldering tip with more solder on it so you don't end up with loads of little bubbles making up the solder, a 40w weller is great for soldering motor wires, that's what I use, and your crimper isn't ideal, mine crimps all at the same time and you put the connector into the crimper, close it till you hear 2 clicks then insert wire and crimp, crimper HT-225D, i got mine at cpc farnell, on soldering it's better if it all melts at the same time and creates one single solder mound / bubble
Where did you get those crimpers
wich soldering iron and tip do you use?
Nice video
I don't if anyone else asked. What about the transponder?
Thanks for your help~
OCD kicking in! Seeing the electrical tape slightly skew...*left eye twitching*
That's not OCD but ok.
@@TheEchelon what is it
How hot are you getting the soldering iron to remove the wires form the esc?
210 degrease
Thanks so much
i just let the fumes roll across my face 😄
What size pin’s are you using? Does TA sell them?
What brand bullets are those?
What soldering iron are you using?
Very detailed video well done. Where can you buy the wire crimpers?
Harbor freight my guy
Ricochet r/c race way
Which specific crimpers at harbor freight they have like 5?
What is your iron temp?
Good
What size (awg) is the speed control wire for connnector suplier tool???
12awg gauge wire for esc
I am cringing at all the wires being the same color. It may be clean, but the engineer in me is crying 🤣.
What type and size of soldering wire did you use?
best wire is 60/40 lead free rosin core 😁
.32
@@chad9160 whats the 60% and 40% made of
@@edmundooliver7584 60% tin, 40% lead
How many of you were screaming “NOOOOOO” when he cut that esc lead?
Why solder the fan directly for only 17.5 and carpet?
Personally I never solder my fan directly. The switch is plenty fine for me as I like to power everything on/off via the ESC.
Aluminum jigs are not good. They dissipate too much heat,so you have to hold the iron on the wire longer.
That's only so if you're using a weak or hobby grade soldering iron. If you have a quality iron, it'll work quickly regardless of what's touching the wire/lead.
Shout out to Wallie Builds for that heat shrink on the motor wires lmao
Cool video, just an FYI but they do make wire cutters and strippers.
素晴らしい！
Is it safe/good idea to mount esc-receiver wire below esc? When thinking about chassis flex maybe it is so centered area that it doesn't ruin the wire...? Otherwise very nice tutorial!
Id solder that fan wire before i would put the esc into the car, would be 1000 Times easier to solder
Measure once, cut twice. LOL. Then repeat. 🤣
sasisnya oke
Good video but been better with colored wire.
link to vise?
I no longer see it on HarborFreight.com Try this page: www.amazon.com/mini-vise/s?page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Amini%20vise (Steve)
for when you don't have a girlfriend.
Also fantastic as ASMR video....but don’t fall asleep....the end music is traumatic .
Soldering ain't nothing, super glueing tires that can flick up in your eye that scares me. Or using a Dremel. Protect them peepers!
@21:47 there is no way the negative will touch the positive..... unless you put the battery in the other way.... oppps.... didn’t see that one did ya!
To bad they don't make something to cut and strip wires, other than a pair of body scissors.
2:42 uhh my ESC came with perfectly good wires already soldered on, why should i take them off? 4:50 noooo, all hes doing is dumping solder down a good inch of the wire with it pointing up in the air like that. thank god associated manuals are better than the trash they upload to youtube
my fkin ears bro!!!
soundblaster activated
Jesus man normalize your volume!
you are relying waaaayy too much on double sided tape...I'd want the receiver and speed controller at least ziptied to that carbon plate to assure they never move while running the buggy...same with the motor fan...
Have you ever tried to remove a esc that was stuck down with quality servo tape it's a pain. So its stuck enough for me.
Pat lol
I don't think all double tape is the same, 3m tape is stupid strong. I mount things on brick with it, it'll hold easy.
All Real All Heart very true!
You can be a newb and use Zip ties while the rest of us will use quality tape like the 3M he's using. Good luck trying to remove anything you stick down with it, especially on a nice glossy finish like the receiver tray like he did.
You used way too much solder when tinning the leads. You only want to coat the very end al the way around.
You fed solder into the wire, stiffening it up at least .25" which creates unnecessary resistance.
You also didn't solder the leads onto the ESC properly either. You should clean off ALL the Solder from the ESC ports and
then you can slide the leads into the holes and solder from the bottom which is how the factory does it for a perfect solder.
Each port should have a shiny bubble of solder just like from the factory.
Get a wire stripper and CLEAN your tip!!!
theINQBS sounds like you should make a video..
You should always point the wire down when tinning. This keeps excess solder from feeding too far up the length of the wire keeping the wire from getting stiff. It doesnt add resistance, it's just an inconvenience.
To get a good solder joint on the speed control, apply solder to a single terminal at a time and attach the wire without removing the iron from the terminal. Once the solder cools, it will never melt the same because the solder flux has evaporated.
Idubbbz content cop music