Tesla Model 3 Power Conversion System
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- Here is a quick look at the Power Conversion System (PCS). This module is located under the rear seat in the "Penthouse" and functions as the AC to DC on-board charger as well as the DC-DC converter that keeps the 12v system going.
A Texas Instruments TMS320F28377DPTPQ is used to run the PCS. www.ti.com/prod...
Let me know in the comments below what kind of videos you'd like to see on Tesla tech. Don't forget to subscribe, as there is a lot of cool stuff coming!
Thanks very much for making all these videos. You do a remarkable job at conveying both the elegant simplicity and magnitude of engineering that have gone into this vehicle. I appreciate Model 3 substantially more now that I see how astoundingly well integrated and designed the system physically is. It suggests extreme robustness, reliability, and longevity, which are ideal adjectives to describe a car, in my opinion. I am stunned at how thoroughly the engineering of Model 3 distinguishes itself from essentially all other vehicles being mass manufactured today.
Pikminiman totally agree. When I first went for a test drive of the S, you could really sense the cohesiveness of the engineering. Sure Tesla had had some fit and finish issues, but as an engineer you can really sense how amazing the car is. Wish they were a better investment, I'd definitely have one.
I love taking this stuff apart. Engineering Porn! =)
The electrical engineering does look VERY good. Very high quality work. Good parts quality, good board materials, good layout, etc.
Also that is quite a bit of integration to have both the AC charger and DC to DC converter on the same module. Makes sense to integrate them, but only if you're very confident about the engineering.
That is aerospace military grade designs. The latest and greatest in heavy-duty high quality. Minus the advanced spectrum hardening. It's in its own universe. Nobody in automotive or any electronics except military coms, sat, aerospace, nasa is doing this. I am blown away, this plus all the other awesome of being best in class on every front makes it undeniable. There is no way Ford, GM, Chrysler and everyone else is even close to having this level of talent in house. The best attracts the best and it starts at the top.
Great video, thanks for making these. Just as a note, it can sometimes be really hard in a video to determine scale. Since we never see anything of a known size in the video, its tough to determine scale. Pointing at something, including a quarter or a soda can, can provide a sense of scale to your audience. I look forward to more videos.
Thanks, I will try to incorporate this into future videos!
A ruler would be good.
A metric ruler would be good.
All these Model 3 videos are great, but as someone who isn't too familiar with the various hardware being shown, they would be even better if you used a laser pointer (or something similar) to highlight/indicate exactly what you're talking about. I know you're pointing the camera or moving it closer to "zoom", but if one doesn't know generally what something looks like, a non-ambiguous indicator would help a lot. Thanks for the interesting content and keep up the good work.
I agree. Not instructive at all except maybe to those who are already in the know.
These videos are really targeted at people that already have a basic understanding of electronics and automotive systems. Sorry, while I wish I could make some more generalized content, I just don't have the time at present. Maybe in the future if this RUclips channel takes off, I can make a series of beginner videos. I definitely would enjoy it! Please keep the comments coming though!
If you don't understand, you have to watch a few electronics basics videos. Not every video on this planet is done for zero knowledge people.
@ Vlad Mihai ""Not every video on this planet is done for zero knowledge people."" Hey prickly, keep telling yourself you can follow along like the expert you pretend to be. I'm so impressed.
+Ingineerix- I don't think they need to be more generalized or "dumbed down" just better indication of exactly what item is being identified would improve them. e.g. @ 1:12 you talk about an "orange connector" and there are at least 3 different orange things on the screen. Sure, it's most likely that the one being discussed is the thing that's closest to the center of the picture, but in other places in your videos your framing doesn't center on what's being talked about. Or what you're talking about is behind something else, etc. A simple laser pointer or even your finger would eliminate any confusion and make the videos more accessible to a wider audience.
tesla engineering is a dream
A software engineer's wet dream, any other kind of engineer's nightmare.
Apparently I need a new one of these! Model 3 has been in shop for a few weeks now and they’re just ordering this after more diagnostics. Hopefully will have car back soon with no issues! 🎉
My 2018 Model 3 has just been diagnosed with the same issue. They have ordered what must be this part (Service is calling it the "car controller") and it has been two weeks and has yet to arrive. I'm driving my car but it is throwing error messages constantly. I hope yours is repaired soon.
@@mklozar jeez yeah it’s not fun. I got my car and literally the next day all of this happened. My car note is coming up and I’ve driven the car once. I’m hoping everything gets resolved this week!!!
@@weretheosbornes When you get it back you are going to love your 3. I've had zero problems in 3 years, 11 months before this one.
the tms320 is very Common in power electronics we use them also for prototyping for Space power Supplies
This is now 6 years old. I wonder how the latest unit looks now in comparison. Tesla are always improving. How long before the M3 and MY go 48v ?
No changes except for the Cybertruck PCS. Tesla will probably backport this technology at some point into 3/Y, but so far haven't see that. Not a huge motivation to go 48V in the smaller vehicles.
I've found somewhere that the drive motor's stator isn't a solid one but multiple axial part with lots of gaps, which is unique and makes me confused ! I suspect that structure is for air cooling but my colleague says it's oil cooling. Now, only more details from your amazing sharing can prevent the "bloody" fight between us (just kidding LOL.
So, I'm Looking forward to the detail teardown of the drive unit, especially the connection between drive motor & gearbox, the oil loop between them, drive motor's elctro-magnetic structure and cooling structure. ^o^
Thanks again~
mondayfool To my knowledge, the rotor has 6 poles with “V” style PMs, which looks normal. The stator is divided into many skinny slices, like a bread being sliced into many pieces, each one has 54 slots around, so gaps are between these slices but not on them, that reveals a switch reluctance structure? I don’t know how…anyway lets wait Ingineerix upload more.
mondayfool And each slice has hundreds of small rectangular holes around the outer diameter, which really shocks me.
Any idea how many Watts the 12V system can output? I'm curious about running an inverter for emergency house power during an outage.
I wonder that too although for your use an ATX power supply seems more obvious if your battery backup is somehow high voltage. Or are you talking about leeching directly from a model 3? I wouldn't do that.
the fuses says 40 A so no more than 480 Watts
I haven't loaded it up, but I think it's at least 1.5Kw. Though if you want to run an inverter, best way is to get something that can take in 300-400VDC and then you don't have as much conversion loss. You should be able to pull 10kW off the HV system without issue. Just do it safely!
Incorrect. Even if limited to 40A, that's over 10kW even at the lowest pack voltage. That fuse is to cover the charger output, not 12v output.
@@Ingineerix Can you explain the comment regarding the 10kW further? Wouldn't the charger output use a larger current?
Technically, in all Tesla batteries, doesn’t each cylinder cell have it’s own fuse wire? So the battery would be full of fuses
Yes, this is true, but in most external pack overcurrent events I've seen happen, these don't melt. These cell fuses are to protect against one cell shorting, to keep the other parallel cells from dumping a lot of energy into the damaged cell. The Pyro activated fuse system enables superior protection, as it can trip much faster than a thermal-based fuse without worry of a false "nuisance" trip. (And boy would it be a big nuisance! =)
Do you know the max load the DC-DC can take?
Is this easy to replace? Tesla has my Model 3 for service and they are waiting for the part to arrive. Took a week to diagnose a “12v battery reduced” issue.
i noticed that the board is coated with some thick acrylic coating which is kind of unusual for automotive suppliers and that some parts are siliconed to the board, probably due to failed shakertests in development or to ease handling due to flimsy tht parts. Also the thing must be jam packed inside, due to the fact that they used some odd angles on some THT parts. Also fiducials for placement(pacmans) seem really big, we normally use max 3-4mm. Those can also be Mounting points or markings where certain elements have to go. Also I don't like the brown colouring on the fuses, seems to be thermal stress from soldering the package. Interesting video
Silicone attachment of high-mass parts is normal in an automotive (or other high vibration/shock environment). Solder alone is not a good mechanical solution in these environments. It will fatigue and crack, Especially now with lead-free alloys.
Yeeaaahh. 0:45 3-Phase Charging. So i don't have to cancel my reservation. 11kW AC is good, but 16,5kW like the Model S/X would be better. :)
Thanks for you insights in the Tesla systems.
Any chance of a Model S series? Like a tutorial on CAN bus monitoring and diagnosing faults? How to do diagnostics without the Tesla toolbox, for example.
Do you see any sign of a Power Line Communications chip or related circuitry for natively supporting CCS-style digital communication protocols?
In theory, this may become important in the future even for AC charging via the J1772 adapter but it also opens the possibility for a simple CCS DC adapter.
I believe the TMS320 that's on the board should support PLC communication.. I could be completely wrong though. Easy way to figure it out would be to check if this PCB is different in the european model.
Request a new video on the power conversion module for Cyber Truck. The lack of visible large high voltage capacitors needs an explanation.❤👍
I don't have a Cybertruck, Can't afford one. But looking at the design, I think they just send 100/120hz ripple into the pack. There's a lot of evidence that this actually is good for the pack.
@@Ingineerix sincerely appreciate the clarification. Saw one of the CT teardown videos, where the tiny low voltage caps were compared with a Model Y PCS High Voltage electrolytic caps, to highlight the advancement?.❤👍
Great! Much more soothing camera moves! :)
What is the minimum current to charge the battery on AC? Or the working limit before switch off? One phase and for three phase?
48A single phase for US market for long range, otherwise 32A, and EU spec is 16A per phase, 3 phase.
Is this OBC and DC-DC two-in-one power modules？ Or it is just the dc-dc converter part which does not charge the traction battery. It only supply the auxiliary power for model 3?
How are the magnetics terminated to the board? At 2:09 there looks like some kind of receptacle. I'd like to see some close ups.
Great videos. Thanks for taking the time.
Any idea about topology used in this charger? I guess, phase shifted full bridge is the answer, but it would be nice to have a basic reverse engineered schematic/drawing.
Thank you!
I am wondering if it is possible to convert it to 3 phase. Looks like the whole AC filtering board would have to be replaced or reworked, as it's clearly visible all phases are connected together.
No, too much work, just buy a 3-phase unit and swap.
@@Ingineerix 3-phase unit is €3500, as they are rare. 1ph 48A one is €500..
What's OBC power capability? There are some fuses & PFC FETs depopulated?
Are you sure the strips between the transformers are actually part of the board and not just bolted on top? Seems like it would bridge two separate PCBs.
It looks like one continuous board to me.
Excellent and informative video, I've subscribed and liked! Can you tell us under which scenarios the DC/DC inverter maintains the 12v system, and likewise under which scenarios it does not? For instance, does it cycle on/off while the car is "off" and not plugged in, or does it maintain the 12v side constantly? Under what "normal" scenario does the 12v battery see the deepest discharges? If the 12V system is tapped to power external loads while the car is "off" will it still be maintained by the dc/dc converter, and would the PCS still be willing to provide up to ~100 amps even with the vehicle off? Would the car detect this as an anomaly and throw an error, or just drive the load as long as traction battery charge remained? I really appreciate your insights, Thanks!
You asked a lot here. Maybe I'll do a video in the future. There are a lot of forum posts on this, so please do some research. 100A should be safe if most accessories are off. You have to tap the 12v at the correct place (not at the 12v battery!) to avoid errors. Car would have to be "on" to safely pull loads like this.
We have a mid/late 2018 model 3 lr awd which in Early 2023 at 120k miles had the onboard charger have one section (they call it phases) go. It still charged but only up to 32a. Apparently it was the 2nd or 3rd section that went because if it was the 1st, that is also the controlling one and it would not have charged at all. It would wrestle at low amps for 3 minutes and then ramp up only reaching 32a max. The 3 sections all do 18a each. We had it replaced like the others for $1800. We kept the old unit. I am curious if I crack it open that the failure could have just been fuses and we could fix it and sell it as functional?
What is the converter topology with those 3 HF AC transformers in the middle, and do you happen to know that intermediate frequency value or output (pack voltage) range?
thanks for all these videos do you know how much power you can draw from the 12v converter and what is the voltage of this converter is it really 12v or 14.4v thanx in advance
I haven't measured it yet, but I suspect it's at least 1.5kW and the output voltage depends on the intelligent charge algorithm for the 12 AGM battery, so will vary with which charge phase it's in as well as temperature. I've seen it up to almost 15v, but never below 14v. It's typically around 14.8 here with our mild temps.
Hi Phil, I had my PCS replaced out of warranty so I asked (and received) the replaced part back. It has not been opened (all seals are unbroken). Can you think of any use for that component? Is it worth trying to sell it online?
You better sell it defective as-is, otherwise it's fraud. You probably know what it was doing/not doing when it failed, so you can state that in your listing. It's not worth much to anyone except electronics hobbyists.
Unfortunately these fail reasonably often on the Model 3 (look up PCS replacement). Here because mine just failed on a 2 month old Model 3. My car has been in for service twice already for two other things (taking over a week) and now I have to get this part replaced! Very frustrated with Tesla lack of quality.
I have not seen an abnormally high failure rate on these. Sorry to hear yours did!
Hi Ingineerix, Did you have a look at the bottom of the board, where the FETs are, to see if they are using diodes or FETs for rectification ?
It would be interesting to see whether this charger is hardware-ready to be bidirectionnal (for V2G/V2H/V2L)
I had a look at the PCB underside again, and the output on the secondary are diodes, not FETs or any other kind of switch, so the current hardware is definitely NOT capable of reverse running.
Do you know the manufacturer of the input connectors? I am designing an AC charging system and want to use similar weatherproof connectors.
Lots of PCS failures reported lately
Tesla has sold a lot of cars lately. The PCS does fail more than other HV components, because it's exposed to the noisy AC power line. The amount of failures per capita is still lower than other power supplies of it's power level.
Hey, any Idea about the Size of that unit?
My question has been how much amperage in 12v can the dc to dc converter put out in the model 3 if I wanted to put extra load on the dc system and have the converter be able to keep up without draining the 12v battery out if I draw more than what it puts out.
I would not recommend exceeding 150A continuous.
I have owned a Model 3 slightly less than 2 years and it suddenly stopped charging. Tesla replaced the PCS under warranty, but said that it would cost $1,800 for this work if it was outside of warranty. Disappointed that such a key part failed in less than 2 years.
Late 2018 Model 3 brand new had a failed PCS; replaced under warranty. That replacement PCS failed 2-years in at ODO ~96,000 mi (out of 50k mile basic limited warranty); $1600 parts and labor estimate. I'm asking the service center to hold old parts, will happily donate for anyone who can do the analysis to understand why this part fails?
We have a mid/late 2018 model 3 lr awd which in Early 2023 at 120k miles had the onboard charger have one section (they call it phases) go. It still charged but only up to 32a. Apparently it was the 2nd or 3rd section that went because if it was the 1st, that is also the controlling one and it would not have charged at all. It would wrestle at low amps for 3 minutes and then ramp up only reaching 32a max. The 3 sections all do 18a each. We had it replaced like the others for $1800. We kept the old unit. I am curious if I crack it open that the failure could have just been fuses and we could fix it and sell it as functional?
Выяснили причину поломки?
Electrical engineering student here. I always want to learn more about these systems so I hope someone is able to answer a question or two.
What's that black paste on the board near the capacitors? I assume it's epoxy for chip on board, but I have no reason to not ask and be sure.
Why do European models use a 3-phase input? What exactly is a 3-phase input? AC power is already in 3-phase, so why do American models NOT use a 3-phase input?
What's a cold plate?
Thank you for your time to read through this whole comment lol. Classes cover the foundations pretty well but they're lacking in how those foundations are actually applied.
It's for dealing with different domestic electric supplies around the world. US neighborhoods are wired from 1 phase out of the 3 phase supply. Some European homes (i.e. Germany) are wired to all 3 phases.
@@ddud4966 Thanks for the info! Learned something new today
The "paste" is a dense silicone glue that's used to harden the large components on the PCB from having vibration-induced solder joint failure. This is a must when dealing with an automotive environment.
A cold plate is essentially a heatsink but instead of air removing the heat, they use liquid. (Glycol in this case) The glycol is then sent to a radiator in front to transfer the heat to the air.
Do you know what the current value for output on 12 volts is?
VCFront controls the voltage and it varies depending on temperature and which of the 3 phases the AGM charge stage is in. Here's a breakdown of what's going on: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IUoU_battery_charging
Teardown of Power Converter ?
Is it necessary to remove to cooling fluid to replace the PCS ? Thanks and greetings from Germany
Yes. PCS has a cold plate with coolant in it. You don't want to spill coolant in the battery, so best to drain. You have a bad PCS? I have not seen one fail yet.
Ingineerix thanks for your answer. Yes I had a bad PCS, I got it replaced at the service center. The PCS was not able to charge three phases like we have in Europe. In my account is a video where I filmed the PCS trying to charge
I just got a 'Power Conversion System' error condition in my new Model 3 SR+, and was directed by the car to schedule service. Will see if it has to be replaced. Everything seems normal otherwise, not sure if we should be driving it or not??
@@fneils The PCS does 3 things: 1. Provides power conversion from the HV battery pack to keep the 12v system going. (This is the DC-DC conversion to provide 12v, Like an Alternator would on a conventional car), 2. Helps bring up the HV system when it's asleep (precharge), and 3. Converts the AC power to DC when you are charging on AC power. Depending on what part of the PCS is having trouble, the car may still drive OK, but you may not be able to charge from AC power. Or maybe it's the DC-DC function which means your car could leave you stranded when the 12v battery dies. Best thing to do is contact Tesla and ask them if the alert affects the ability to drive the car.
@@Ingineerix Thanks for the reply. I contacted them via webform on Tesla support page the day it happened, asking if car is safe to drive. No response from them yet. I have read in forums of others seeing this error, and having to have the PCS replaced - all continued to drive the car and didn't have a problem while awaiting service. Car appears to be driving and charging normally; will check the 12v battery with a voltmeter when my wife gets home with the car this afternoon. It goes in for service this Thursday.
This is a really great video! Thank you very much for taking the time and making the video.
But could you please share the part No. of the Electrolytic Capacitor for the Bus (Those Bulky ones) and the main switching devices? Is it still a Si design or they start to use SiC?
Thank you very much.
Also, i really appreciate it if you can provide the dimension of this converter. Thank you!
The part number is Tesla proprietary. (Read: You cannot buy it) They do not use Electrolytics in these applications, they are likely film. Yes, they are Silicon Carbide custom made by ST.
Thank you! It's great to know they finally move to SiC. From this video, it looks more compact than their previous version. Could you also share the dimension of the whole PCS if you have them on hand? Thank you.
Sorry, I just realized you are commenting on the PCS, I accidentally thought you are talking about the drive inverter: ruclips.net/video/l6dV2re3rtM/видео.html
The PCS doesn't use Silicon Carbide, only the inverter, and yes, there are electrolytics as well as film caps in the PCS.
hmm, that's interesting. I start to wonder why they use Silicon Carbide on the inverter but not the PCS. Maybe because of the cost? Thank you for your time. Looking forward to more of your videos! I am really interested in the electronics in Tesla!
What power levels are we talking about and can you write parts numbers? mainly the caps and the transistors but also the unusual transformers if they have parts numbers. I also wonder about switching frequencies. It doesn't look like fast resonant topologies although the 12V is very small if it's just the corner. Maybe it's only say 400W or even less.
The HV connector seems modest so maybe it's only 25A/10kW. The common mode choke seems big. Maybe it doubles as output filter inductor.
It's my impression that more smaller lyt caps perform better and cost less than larger cans like those. I would probably also go to a very high frequency topology and maybe get away with planar PCB trace transformers. And single stage if possible. Although that design is fairly compact if it's the ~11kW design talked about.
TMS320 is an ancient chip. Is that still good? seems somewhat expensive for its specs. Similar specs for 1/10 the cost.
I haven't performed a full load test on the DC-DC, but I suspect it's a least 1.5kW. 400W would not cut it.
The charger is about 12kW, So I think about 4kW per phase. The HV fuse is 63A.
It has heritage, but it's a well used and current architecture. Here is the variant used: www.ti.com/product/TMS320F28377D
"That's not your father's TMS320." :) I'm sure TI has reved it many times over the years, at a minimum with newer semiconductor process technologies for better efficiency, speed, etc.
In the eu the tesla ac-chargers (S & X) support 11KW (3x 16A/230V) @default and 16,5KW (24A) upgrated through software. Do the numbers on the fuses add up to the math?
as far as i know this is the dc-dc converter. this outputs 12 V and the fuses say 40A so max 480 Watts
however if this also functions as the AC-DC converter you would have a max charging power of 27 kw with 3 phase 400 V
I suspect in the EU it will support 16A 3-phase. There are clear paths for the 3rd leg. There is no higher capacity to my knowledge, but keep in mind, this is only a 74kWh pack, so charging can complete in around 6 hours at full capacity.
prob capped at 16 A yes but if the fuses say 40 A it could deliver that much but of course the other components need to deliver that too ^^
@Ingineerix; "this is only a 74kWh pack, so charging can complete in around 6 hours at full capacity."; 3-phase 16 A (400 V system) provides 11 kW. So full charging would take 7 h, perhaps even 8 h due to charge loses.
Kinda got lost there. What are the "magnetics"?
And, are the large square devices to the right of the can capacitors?
The large square things are transformers (magnetics). The capacitors are the black cans (Bulk electrolytic), and the blue rectangles (Low ESR film).
OK. That's what the inference seemed to be, but I've never heard transformers called magnetics before. Learn something new every day.
So with xformers that size, in spite of the caps being to the left, closer to the input, I would assume they are kicking the voltage up to the 400s before rectifying it to DC. Would that be your take?
Chokes and Inductors are also in the "magnetics" family. Any components making use of magnetism. The transformers are needed to support galvanic isolation of the AC line from the car. Otherwise you could just use an inductor-based buck/boost. Typically they run a PFC stage (boost) to take the 240VAC to to about 400VDC, which is then is chopped into high frequency and run into a transformer, then rectified and sent to the battery.
If 1 PCS modules fail..is it most likely the 2nd and 3rd module will fail?
If the failure was caused by bad power, then yeah. Even a new unit will probably fail if you continue to feed it bad power. If it was a fluke, then, no, additional failures are no more likely than the first.
@Ingineerix I'm new to Tesla. Bought used with the Gov incentive and first time tried charging at station and max was 32A so 1 of the 3 went out. 2k repair. Can you tell me what you mean by bad power and how this can be avoided. Thanks.
@@MA-vk1md Standard Range and mid range only have 2 of 3 modules populated, so 32A max is normal, only long range will do 48A. If there is a problem with the PCS, there will be alerts visible in service mode. If you have bad power, there will be an alert on the screen while charging. It will usually display something like "Charge Rate Reduced" and the explanation of why.
@@Ingineerix I have a LR 3 and I see the service alert chargeboost failure code PCS a013 and a100 in service mode. It's not displaying as a fix alert..I only see it if I go in service mode. A month ago I received a message saying my home 110v charger plug is hot and I saw my Amp go from 12 to 11 to 10. I put it at 11 and seems to be working fine. So if this is bad power then my guess is hire an electrician and upgrade to the 32 or 40A plug and hold off fixing the PCS and see if the 32A maintains?
@@MA-vk1md 120v (level 1) charging is very inefficient. Charging at home at 32A is usually more than sufficient for overnight charging.
That gold Pac Man is eating BMD, Mercedes and Audi cars market share :-) any new videos planed ?
what is the max watts that the 12v battery is supplied, if I were to put an inverter on the 12v, what is my inverter watts ?
I don't recommend over 1000W, as there has to be enough left over to run the 12v systems in the car.
I have a 1000w inverter that I can use my my prius, when I get the M3 I wanted to be able to do the same for emergency power. So you think 1000w would be the limit. Do you know what the battery AH rating is for the M3 ?
@@pmacgowan I've read on some forums that the output of that converter is like 2500w. Wouldn't that make 1500w safe if the car's just sitting there as a power backup?
It's possible, but if you are looking for that much power, it's far better to tap HV and use a much more efficient inverter rather than converting HV->12V->HV->AC. High voltage means only the last stage is needed: HV->AC
It's brilliant
What type of 12 V battery does Tesla 3 use?
AGM. You can see it in my video here: ruclips.net/video/dxPDT843nOw/видео.html
OK, a conventional lead-acid battery.
Looks like they split the phases, one AC-DC converter unit per phase
This is a US-Spec car, so it only has single-phase input. The 3 sections all work off the same common AC input. There is clearly places for adding the 3rd leg in though, so they can re-use the PCB and almost all of the other parts in the EU-spec model.
I would assume that it is AC inlet filter board to the left. This would typically be different for single phase and three phase inlet. Also the AC fuse configuration would be different.
4.5 years with my m3 and the 220 won't charge but the 110 will. Tesla said its the pcs and I need a new one. With install $2,200! Illinois
Sadly, the early cars didn't have as reliable PCS as the later ones. The only other option is to buy a used one and install it yourself, takes about an hour for 3/Y. Sadly you have to drop the pack on 2021+ S/X.
@@Ingineerixесть видио замены pcs?
Fuses! Looks like if you blow one you need a new board. That’s an expensive short!
If a fuse does blow there, it's because of catastrophic damage, so you will need a new board anyway. I haven't seen any reliability issues with the PCS.
it is stupid to buy tesla.... so much electinics in a car! never trust electronic.... old is gold
Please throw away whatever Electronic device you used to post that comment. You should be using a hand-crank device from now on! =)
@@Ingineerix I have a simple economic mobile phone that is good for purpose... exaggeration of technology is stupidity...
The Model 3 is an incredibly complicated machine. No wonder Tesla has not made any base models. How could they make any money?
cleantechnica.com/2018/07/22/peeking-behind-teslas-cost-of-materials-curtain/
This is the most inaccurate and obviously troll comment I've seen all day. Go away loser.
Based on what I've seen, I think they will be able to make a good profit even on the base models. It is WAY less complex than most any other car, and has much higher integration.
Ingineerix Thanks so much! I’m really glad to learn that and I so much appreciate you sharing your wealth of knowledge.
Agree. Most other car makers would have many more separate modules. Everything so far looks unusually highly integrated on Model 3.