Travis, got my X210 kit from Banggood dialed in and took my first flight a couple days ago. Bad weather is the only thing keeping me from flying. Just waned to give a big thanks for the time u put into making a RUclips for everyone. This is my first quad stepping out of the toy class and first build. the speed and agility are addicting. Your Instructions and quality of video close ups made it clear at every step. Way above many other post. I'm looked to the next build and will continue to follow and 👍🏻for all your posts. Thanks again.
Thank you Trav! I watched this 20+ times, and finished my first quad build, the 2300kv version, in less than a day! Others have used Cleanflight, so I appreciate the detailed Beta flight, and Bell Heli tutorials included! Without them, this thing wasn't going to fly. God bless, keep up the great videos!
travisgrindal Any problem with your PDB? my FPV is dying in flight because of the Matec PDB. I put up a few videos of my first few flights (3S) I couldn't do it without You! Awesome kit, but very cramped for my first build. I'm ordering the X210 V2 frame for more space for next build but need to know what PDB to order, or All in one? Thanks again! Keep up the awesome videos and tutorials!
Ok, I found my answer so disregard my question! I don't want to waste anyone's time. For anyone else that may run into the same problem, my port warning came from having betaflight running in the background, once I disconnected out of betaflight it fixed that problem, now on to the next one lol!!! Thank you for your videos Mr. Grindal!!
Hi Travis, Just wanted you to know I built my first real race quad (X210) by following your instructions on this video a year ago. I still refer to it once and a while for some basic instructions that I still need reminded of. I recommend this video to every new guy gettin into the hobby. Thanks for all the info. Still a fan and subscriber.
Great job as usual. You find the right level of explanation and action to keep the build interesting but not bogged down with repetitive junk. I always learn something I need to know from your vids that others assume we already knew. Thanks!
Found the problem late last night. Don't know how it happen but my output on the tx had switch to P"W"M. I'm set for PPM. Once I form that motors armed (props on) wasn't expecting them to start up. All is well no lost fingers this time. Sat it down and wen to bed, problem solved . Lol. Thanks for your reply. BTW don't know if u remember but I had build my first racing drone the X210 featured on your Chanel. I'd lost it on the second flight. Just built the second one and putting FPV and telemetry. Still using your page for reference. Great job thanks for helping us new guys.
Hey Travis, I just finished building my X210 kit with the 2600KV motors. Your build video was perfect for helping get the job done. I did a test flight today and it's a beast even with 3S battery. I added the following components below to complete the FPV and it was a very clean build. Realacc HUBOSD ECO X Type PDB instead of the Matek PDB-XT60 Orange Foxeer XAT600M HS1177 Camera Eachine TS5823L 5.8G 200mw 40CH Raceband Mini FPV Transmitter DYS FPV 5.8G Antenna 4dBi Mushroom Antenna Turnigy iA6C PPM/SBUS Receiver Flysky FS-i6S 2.4G 10CH AFHDS 2A Transmitter Thanks again for you great videos.
I never usually comment on youtube videos but had to make an exception for this one to say thanks so much for taking the time to make it! Just a great explanation and walkthrough with loads of useful tips. Thanks!
I bought one after watching your video and I'm in the process of building it, this video is a tremendous help, much more detaled than most and your camera work is excellent. I would like to see you do a soldering video, you do a great soldering job. your pads and wires are tinned and connected perfectly .
Thanks! I'm not the best at soldering but I rarely have any wires come lose. Well, except for real small wires pulling off when I have bad crashes, but I blame that more on my crash than my soldering job. :)
Think I got everything straight. Flashed the ESCS and got the motors spinning in the right direction etc. Your video worked. Excellent job. I'm just not going to be able to fly it BC we are getting snow here now but I think I'm ready to move to your FPV video next. Thanks again.
Build my first quadcopter today! I had some bad issues with binding and power to and from my FB, but your videos and one other youtuber helped me get it lined out! thank you for the video!
Excellent video, the test flight looked so much like my old neighborhood in Lenexa, I started paying more attention and saw your KC FPV shirt and knew we were practically neighbors. For the record, this may have been the first hour long video I didn't skip ahead on!
Yooo Travis! Just wanted to say thanks again for taking time to make this video, and suggest going with BF. Your suggestions and video helped me power through my first "real" mini quad build. My maiden went great, and it was surprising how agile these quads are, only multirotor I've flown before the x210 was a inductrix fpv with some hop up stuff from the tiny whoop guys. Take care man, looking forward to more videos from you. -Jamie
It's nice to learn a bit more about what's going on in your head during a real build, and your editing was very good. It's also good to know that you fly pretty well. I'll be looking for #2 after the FPV gear is in, with particular interest in these motors. They did not sound the same during calibration, and they are quite inexpensive. Thanks for your efforts to advance the hobby.
You finally choked me up enough that i got a clone, I'm gonna use it as a beat up quad with some cheap parts. Also got a tarot 130. Keep up the great work!
Hi Travis! Just wanted to say thanks for your build video on there Realacc x210. This is my very first build for a racing Quad and I followed your tutorial every inch of the way including buying the needed nylon spacers. The was no way to complete the build without it. Long story short it's up in the air flying as of yesterday! Well in my garage. Lol. These Xframe are amazing. Thanks again Travis. Next are the Leds and waterproofing this quad
Travis! Banggood owes you a commission on this one. My first quad was BNF but this X210 will be my first build. Your videos gave me the confidence to give it a shot. Well paced, fun, & detailed. All the parts arrived today...can't wait to get started!
Awesome! It should be a good quad for you. If you are worried about this one being fast, it does fly real well (a bit doggy though) on 2S. We've had a few local people build one and they tried a 3S battery and a 2S battery. They all bought a single 2S battery to practice with. They didn't want to give up their 3S batteries though. I think you'll like it!
travisgrindal X210 flies great! Q: the XT60 placement causes the battery cables to hang below the battery. Landings stress out the solder connections and loosen the plug from the PDB. Has this happened to you? Suggestions?
i'd like to hear more on that... and also no damped light on those blheli-s esc's? i noticed when i engage acro mode, on the ground only so far... the props spin slower than my min throttle which is itself pretty low... and just outta curiosity, how do you disarm when you hand catch the quad, ps.. '' oh holy mackerel ..'' i'm glad its not just me who is a bit taken aback by these 210 4s quads..
I can really recommend you dab a little rosin solder flux on any wires/pads to be soldered.(Maybe a little hotter iron temp too). Try it... you'll love it and you'll get much better joints too!
Ordered the same kit with 30a esc and 4mm plate 2 weeks ago, should be here soon, i already got the 4s infinity 70c 1300mah batterys for it, looks like a easy build but im planning on welding wires directly on the f3 board with no plugs at all to save room as it is a tight build
Thanks! This is a great quad. It is still my favorite quad to race. In fact, I raced it this past weekend in Omaha, NE and I'm racing it again this weekend in Kansas City.
Yeah, I would. It can fly on 2S, 3S, and 4S batteries just fine. Also, it's cheap price and good performance make it a good choice too. This video I'm linking to is a similar quad but has 2300kv motors. The X210 kit in the build video comes with 2600kv, which are what I actually prefer. Anyway, this video shows the difference between 2S, 3S, and 4S battery power: ruclips.net/video/g_oKU9ACYYI/видео.html
Great build video, I also bought the same kit, have just finished the build after watching your video ..helped at lot as I'm new to the hobby, still not maidened it yet ,weather not good here in the U.K.
Great video thanks, just getting into. this hobby and it's one of the frames I want to build. Can I offer you a tip for soldering though, if you clean your soldering iron tip regularly you get much better heat transfer which gives you cleaner solder joints and can help reduce lifting pads on a PCB because you get it and out faster. The easiest way I've found is not to use a damp sponge but rather a metal scrubbing pad like you use in the kitchen. You can get "proper" tip cleaning ones but I've been using a silver kitchen scrubber for 20 years. Just drag the tip across it a few times and then tin the tip with shoulder so it doesn't oxidise. Do it whenever the tip goes from shiny silver looking to dull and you'll get great results, I use a 35watt Goot iron with no temp control and can solder everything from the most delicate surface mount parts to chunky power connectors no problem if the tip is nice and clean. Cheers.
I have one of the wire mesh cleaner things for my iron. I can tell now when it gets dirty because the solder doesn't melt and flow as quickly as it should. I've also started using resin to give it a good cleaning every now and then. That gets it real shiny! I cover it in solder, clean it off, and boy does it melt solder quickly! Heh... :)
+travisgrindal yeah you wouldn't think it would make much difference because the iron burns your fingers just as good when it's dirty lol, but the difference in heat transfer is amazing. Solder always wants to run to where its hottest and because a dirty tip doesn't transfer heat to other metal as efficiently it wants to ball up on the iron rather than flow to the pad or wires.
These motors get hot because of a flaw in the design of the base. Air can't be drawn through the motor because the holes on the bottom of the motor are covered by the frame. These high KV motors need good cooling because they generally get hotter. If you look at EMAX (and many others) motors for instance, there is cutouts that allow air to be drawn through the motor when it's bolted to the frame. Racerstar changed this in the RF2205S motors (wonder why?) but also raised the price.
Cool , build my x210... love it , flies great . Waiting for the sx220 build . Just ordered one . The flight control is going to be a challenge. I wanna see your build on that
travisgrindal 3s is for calibration like first time connecting to make sure no magic smoke right? Man I'm ramping up to go 6s! Where you at Travis? Lol.. Dys and race stars cheap motors that can go 6s right? 5s lipo only 25 bucks bg.com zop I think is the brand
3S can toast your electronics too. I suggest people use 3S when they are starting to learn to fly because it is easier to control than the power of 4S. The motors and ESCs are only rated for 2S-4S. I don't know what would happen with 5S or 6S. I'm in Kansas.
Great vid! I am supanoob in FPV racing drones and your video is really really useful to understand what to do (and what NOT to do ^_^ ) for bulding my future DIY drone! Thanks sir! :-)
Awesome tutorial how to build the racing copter. Even I found useful things here for my next build. Thanks! 3 hours to build the quad - seems you have a lot of building practice. Usually it take 3-4 evenings after work for me :)
Yes. You must change receiver to compatible with AT9 - R6D, R6DS, R6DSM, R9D... Connect it to FC via SBUS or PPM. I recommend to remove case, desolder pins and put receiver into shrink tube to save space though. I use AT9 with GX210 frame (same as X210 from inside) and R9D without case and pins.
KrotowX Hey! so can I use a fsia 6b receiver on this moma joma??! or where can I order the right size wire harness for that so I can use s bus..? If yk what I mean. Thanks!
Well, with practice build times became shorter. Now it is 3-4h for planning and one night for building if all parts fit. Of course, latest improvements in FC construction and stackable boards with 4-in-1 ESCs made building much easier as well.
Did you know... You don't need 6" of antenna sticking out of the quadcopter! The bit that does the work is the end 35mm. You can loose the extra cable in the build either by routing or winding. Just make sure the tip of the ant is mounted as usual.
Good to know. I'm glad I didn't cut them off because I had to move the receiver from the top plate to the lower plate when I added the FPV gear. They look a little shorter now... but still good to know.
Hey man, you got the motor position wrong. It does not really matter with brushless motors as you probably know, but now you miss the self locking feature. I did it wrong too because of the arrow direction on top, it shows you which way to turn loose, not the spinning direction. On the side you can see "CW / CCW", if mount them according to that information, you'll mount them on the right position. I saw locknuts come loose and drones crash because of it, so i think this is a useful feature. And about the cooling: if you place washers underneath the motor it should be able to have some airflow. My 2300kv has air vents in the bottom.
subscribed!! you helped me so much and just to think i gave up trying to flash beta on the sp board i seen this video not expecting to resolve that but yet you helped me find the way.
Thanks to your video I now know how to flash BHeli ESC by looking at the screen on your computer screen to find the download link for BHeli suite keep up the good work like subs.
I got inspired by your video & ordered the RTF from bangood - This will be my first hobby grade quad - THe Radio is flysky with comes with it in RTF kit. I'm a bit nervous whether ive made the correct decision.
I bought a set of these BR2205s 2600kv Motors. I am using the same 30amp speed controllers and Dal Cyclone T5045C Props. 1300mah 70C graphene 4s lipos. My Motors do not get hot at all. They do not even get the slightest bit warm. I understand that this quadcopter kit comes with 5040 props, which is what is being used in this video. Can't understand how they are getting hot.
They were getting a little warm when I was flying in this video and I'm not sure why either. I'm still flying the original frame, motors, and ESCs and haven't had a single 'heat' issue. I check my motors a lot now and they are rarely even warm. I don't get it but I am a huge fan of this quad.
big daddy ,I really appreciate your builds.. I followed your video step by step. I'm really kinda stump on the jumper that you had to plug in to get the beta to flash. this is my first build ever and I'm trying so hard to not look ignorant,, lol maybe you could in lighten me if possible.. thanks for your videos ps really dug your singing lol
The jumper is just to short those two pins together. I've also used a pocket knife to short them. By shorting those pins together the flight board gets into "DFU" mode, which basically makes it easier to upload the firmware. There's nothing special about the jumper.
nice video...again. I have this frame with my leftover cobra 2204, littlebee 20A. and fpv set-up. love it! the 2205 racerstar on the way. now hurry up and make the telemetry video :) it would be nice if you explained how to have telemetry and a micro minimosd at the same time. I have it running on a Naze now. but I have the same board coming my way in a few days. keep up the good work.
Really an exceptional video friend. Lots of work I'm sure. Thank you a bunch. I'm new at this sport, 100 batteries I guess? Looking at a build and this video nailed it. Editing was GREAT. We can feel your energy. Keep up the GREAT work. *SUBSCRIBED*. -Cole
Travis, I've been considering doing a build for awhile but thought it might be to much, so I purchased a RTF Vendetta and have been flying it. But after I came across your video I purchased the X210. Which 3S and 4S batteries did you use and would you recommend for this build? You have a gift of teaching, very easy to follow and a caring interest in helping people in this hobby. Don't stop doing videos you are one of the best! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge! Keep up the great job! Already planning a custom build after this one is done!
Thanks! That is good to hear. We had a local build class where we had about 12 of these kits built. It should be a a fairly easy build with this video. This quad is fast! We have had a few people buy 2S batteries to calm it down while they learn to fly. It is surprising to me how well this quad flies even on 2S.
Heh... if it looks like too much, try using us a 1.8mm lens. That will open up the field of view quite a bit and you should be able to see the ground during take off.
I have watched many videos for x210 build and yours is by far the best ! really friendly, in detail and most important easy to understand explanation you have done , I also ordered because of you!! :) if you can do a radiolink at9s review I will appreciate since there isn't many (there is only at9 reviews) thank you so much and please keep it up.
This is really a nice quad! Of course, it is using the "Racerstar" motors and they haven't been out long so it is hard to know what their life span will be, but for $7 each, they are easily replaceable.
they are super smooth, pretty tough and awesome. throw in the price and you're in heaven. probably wont beat the emax or top end motors but they will definitely hang in there. the specs of that "cheapie quad" are well above what you would have paid $500 for a year or so ago.
Hi Travis, here's an updater for you. A few weeks ago I wrote that I had lost my X210 the second day out. 3.5 weeks later the thing showed up. The people that found it were good enough to put an add in the paper for lost drone. Crazy thing is I had talked to the guy 3 weeks ago when I first lost it. He even helped me look for it in a field next to his home. His 4 year old grandson was visiting and playing in the field and found it. I forgot to leave my phone number back when I was there 3+ weeks ago so they put an add in the local paper hoping I'd see it. My mother-in-law saw the add while I was out of town. She called and gave me the number hoping it was my drone and sure enough it was..... I had already ordered another one so now I have two. I could tell is had landed upside down so the bottom frame shed most of the water away from the boards and no dirt or corrosion was in the motors. There was a lot of rain during the time it was out there. I cleaned it up, checked it out, bound it up and she took off flying. After a few light laps I punched and it rocketed into the air like there was no tomorrow. Thought you'd like to here the good news. Still following your builds on the X210. Adding camera, telemetry, lights and more. Also upgraded to the Taranis QX7 (it hasn't came in yet). Now for the big hurdle over the cost of fat shark goggles. Not sure when I'll be able to drop the coins needed for those things. Anyway......thanks and happy flying !!!!!!
That is awesome! I'm glad you got it back and that it STILL FLEW! That is amazing. Several of my friends have bought the FatShark Transformers. They use a small removable TV screen instead of 2 small LEDs. The picture is real clear and the cost is a little lower than other FatSharks. Maybe they'd be worth considering: www.banggood.com/Fatshark-FSV1104-Transformer-HD-Bundle-5_8G-720P-FPV-Goggles-Full-Panel-Viwer-Headset-p-1113994.html?p=6Z050013977120130325
Really important question about Min-Throttle at 56:30. I am planning to migrate to Betaflight from MultiWii because if I throttle full down (Off) my props are set for Min-Throttle and they Do keep spinning. BUT, there is also a Min-Check value and once you go below Min-Check, then you totally lose yaw, roll, and pitch control. I understood that Betaflight has something called Air mode and this keeps the yaw, roll, and pitch always enabled, even at full stick down. Really sounds like you are full down on throttle almost before you start to roll or pitch over.
Air mode keeps the props spinning even when the throttle is zero. Raising your min throttle does essentially the same thing. I think air mode may do more but I'm not 100% sure.
The motors might be getting toasty because the bottom screws might be touching the windings. I noticed these on my 2600kv motors and when I switched to shorter screws they didn't get as hot.
If I take it easy on the motors, they are just fine and barely warm. When I push them and do a lot of full throttle flying, then they come down a pretty warm. :)
TEST.. it is quite simple.. Voltmeter, touch frame with negative, set meter to resistance.., and hit each contact on ESC, all 3. on all 4 esc's. NOTE the results.. You will get an odd result, higher than others if your screws are contacting.. And yes, contacting screws can fly fine, just drain battery more, and heat upthe motors more, and yeah throttle will increase the heat.. The type of carbon fibre can make a huge difference in conductivity. Sometimes, you can touch the carbon arms, under/around the motors and feel heat in the carbon, after flight.. This indicates a short as well.
Thanks Travis, I'm using the FY-i6s and am now connected. New issue, still operating without props (thank goodness) when I hit the throttle the motors run away to top speed. I have no control except for full power and they shut down when I drop throttle to bottom. Didn't do the BLHeli ESC calibration just did the one in Betaflight. Do you think this is the problem. If yes could you provide a link for BLHeli I can't find the download but will keep looing. Thanks again for your time. The build has been fun to follow. Looking forward to the FPV and other modifications soon.
Hi Travis, first off I want to thank you for this video. This video has given me alot helpful information to get me started in this hobby. I did this build around 2 months ago and absolutely love it. I still do not have any fpv gear and was wondering if you could recommend a good camera and vtx combination. I was thinking of a Runcam or Hs1177 style camera but don't have a clue as to what vtx to get. AND maybe a wiring tip for vtx to camera because I hear some of the vtx's that people use do not not supply 5v for camera. Note my 12v pad on pdb is still open. I was assuming that if the VTX cannot power the camera i would have to solder camera to 12 volt pad on pdb board. If you could help me out with the fpv part I would greatly appreciate it. Again thank you for your videos and keep up the great work.
The Runcam Owl is one of the best looking pictures I've seen. I don't have one myself yet, but some of my friends do and when I watch their feed, it is so clear. I've been using the cheap CMOS cameras because... well, they're cheap. I did have a Foxeer HS1177 camera and it was great till I smashed into a large tree branch and broke it. It is also available in BG's US Warehouse. www.banggood.com/Foxeer-HS1177-Sony-600TVL-CCD-2_8MM-IR-Mini-FPV-Camera-5-17v-with-Bracket-p-1047125.html?p=6Z050013977120130325 I have a video on adding the VTX and camera to this quad. It is the second part of this build video... ruclips.net/video/LueXntB8p3E/видео.html
Thanks for replying Travis. Don't know how I missed your video on fpv setup but I will definitely view and like it. Not sure of the difference but I need that NTSC version correct? last question, which antennas do you have best luck with when using patch and clovers. Going for two antenna diversity set up. Again I greatly appreciate you replying and you're helpful information.
Travis, you must be the "Gotta get this guy" -- guy for the suppliers. Love to -- watch all your videos-- you are straight up! Hey, my 210 got loose in my garage (high ceilings) and had this awful crash-- went to the floor-- more bashing ( all at less than a second). Now when I arm the motors- it shakes violently. I have re-calibrated-- nothing. Any ideas?
If I was guessing, I'd guess that something got messed up on the flight board and hopefully a fresh re-flash of betaflight will fix it. It was probably a gyro or something. Does it go crazy if you are not in auto-level mode (just acro)?
Thanks for posting. I was wondering how the 2600kv versions would go. I really like the 2300kv and with 5x5x3 king kongs they just get warm after belting the hell out of them. If you have tried the 2300kv's can you give a comparison in terms of power, speed and heat? I was wondering if you needed to change from 1shot to something else for the blheli_s to get the most out of them. The new versions of blheli, betaflight and the braking may be adding extra heat by forcing esc;s to stop or react in super quick time. modes: I have horizon for landing and trouble, rate mode, then airmode. Airmode sweetens the end of the throtle for flips and rolls and raises the min cmd a bit. thanks for posting.
I don't have a set of the 2300kv. I bought a set of EMAX red bottoms that were 2600kv for my Detroit Multirotors frame and thought they were awesome. They get a little warm too with 4S, but I feel a big thrust difference between them and my other 2300kv motors. They also have a different sound to them. Right now I'm on a 2600kv kick and anything new I build will probably have 2600kv or higher on them. A while back I had some 3200kv EpicRC motors and they were crazy. One finally pooped out on me. I don't think it liked 4S batteries very well. :)
cheers and thanks. I have dys mr2205 2700kv's on a quad and they will eat a hole in the sky but I end up in the trees too often with them. they dont get warm and can hold 30a continuous without much temp. cheers and keep up the posting.
First of all thanks for answering all of the questions I had for this build. I really appreciate that. What size screws did you end up getting bc in the frame review you showed how the ones that came with it are to short.?
Travis, I noticed you do all your reviews with the stock Betaflight rates. When you fly for fun or race, are you still flying with these slow rates? I was just thinking that it would be challenging to fly all these different copters if you were constantly changing rates. For example, I have all of my copters a the same rates. If I migrate faster rates , all of my ships get the new rates. I like predictability. Then again, if the stock rates work for you, more power to you.
I have an issue, the X4R-SB with Taranis are bound, Telemetry is ok, FPV system is good, the ESC's calibration is done, motors spinning in the right directions, calibrated accelerometer, had to change to TAER1234 to have mode2 because it was inverted- On first flight I armed the quad and I as able to hover for some time,, started to give some punch and do some moves and started to go crazy so I crashed. Maybe is something with the modes but I was not using throttle and the quad was at full speed when crashed---- :/
Great videos man, you seem to be having a good time while getting footage for your reviews too (not a bland experience to watch like others). That being said, I CANNOT WAIT FOR MY X210!! P.S. Do you know of any simple clamp/clip that would hold XT60 battery plugs together? This is the reason why I am waiting on a new build because my first build had its battery unplugged during a crash (assuming because of branches and stuff on the way down), so my buzzer was completely useless... T_T
Thanks! Humm... I'm not sure about the XT60 locking pieces. I've never seen them. That is a good idea. I think there some XT60 connectors that have locks built into them. I had forgotten about them. I may look into them again.
hey Travis really like this build video im watching it again and again . Im new to the hobby and i dont know which kit i choose . The 2300kv kit or 2600kv kit ? thanks again for this nice video!!!
I just found your video as I have been thinking of upgrading from my cheap drones to the racing drones. Your video is so thorough, clear and well organized. It has made me decide to order one of these kits when they become available again (Banggood are on backorder it seems in November 2017). I have two questions: 1. What battery does this use? (You mention using s3 and s4 but are they different mAh ratings?) Does the Flight Controller include a receiver? Sorry for my ignorance but these are the only unclear issues for me. For the record, I just added an FPV system to my little Husban H502E drone so that part is good but your tip on connecting directly to the power feed is very helpful. Thank you very much for putting these videos together for us.
This quad will fly very tame on a 2S battery, more aggressive on 3S and at race speeds on 4S. Different cell counts ("S" rating) increases the voltage and the quad's performance. The "mAh" is similar to "how much gas is in the tank". I don't do any tuning changes when I change between different cell-count batteries. I normally race with 4S 1300mAh or 4S 1500mAh batteries. Larger batteries will help it fly longer but make it less responsive to stick inputs. Lighter batteries make it more responsive but you get less flight time. 1300 is enough to give it about 3 minutes of pushing-the-throttle-hard flight time. You have to provide your own receiver and connect it to the flight board. The only transmitter and receiver I'm familiar with is the FrSky Taranis. In this video, I connect the receiver using "SBUS". SBUS allows all the signals to go across one wire from the receiver to the flight board. Older PPM receivers had to have one wire for each channel - I do not recommend using PPM.
Hey buddy great video. I was thinking about doing this as my first build. This bcuz saves money or the impulse rc alien. However I noticed you didn't go through the set up for the camera. Did I miss that? Your build is great but I'm looking for something I can go step by step all the way through including camera set up. Thanks for the input.
It really is a good kit. It is fast and I've been trying to push it harder than I have in the past. I really want to pull off a win at one of our races but we have some great pilots who are hard to beat.
The cw or ccw direction on the motors is NOT reffering to the actual direction in wich the motors are spinning but the threads direction on the motor's shaft (in wich way the nut threads)
Great video Travis! I'm on a pretty tight budget so I used a Flysky FS-i6 transmitter and a Flysky FS-X6B receiver using the PWM port to connect the receiver to the control board. I'm an amateur at this and it's not working but I'm not sure what I've done wrong or how exactly it works. Could you please help me out? Thanks in advance. --Joseph
I don't have experience with that receiver, but instead of using the PWM port, use either the i-BUS or PPM ports instead. The PWM will need a 1-to-1 connection for each channel and I don't know that the SP Racing F3 board supports that. It should work with the PPM connection though. The i-BUS would probably be more ideal, but I haven't tried that for myself yet.
Travis, got my X210 kit from Banggood dialed in and took my first flight a couple days ago. Bad weather is the only thing keeping me from flying. Just waned to give a big thanks for the time u put into making a RUclips for everyone. This is my first quad stepping out of the toy class and first build. the speed and agility are addicting. Your Instructions and quality of video close ups made it clear at every step. Way above many other post. I'm looked to the next build and will continue to follow and 👍🏻for all your posts. Thanks again.
Larry Faucett Awesome! I'm glad it was helpful and that yours is flying!
Thank you Trav! I watched this 20+ times, and finished my first quad build, the 2300kv version, in less than a day! Others have used Cleanflight, so I appreciate the detailed Beta flight, and Bell Heli tutorials included! Without them, this thing wasn't going to fly. God bless, keep up the great videos!
Thanks! I'm glad to hear it was helpful!
travisgrindal Any problem with your PDB? my FPV is dying in flight because of the Matec PDB. I put up a few videos of my first few flights (3S) I couldn't do it without You! Awesome kit, but very cramped for my first build. I'm ordering the X210 V2 frame for more space for next build but need to know what PDB to order, or All in one? Thanks again! Keep up the awesome videos and tutorials!
Ok, I found my answer so disregard my question! I don't want to waste anyone's time. For anyone else that may run into the same problem, my port warning came from having betaflight running in the background, once I disconnected out of betaflight it fixed that problem, now on to the next one lol!!! Thank you for your videos Mr. Grindal!!
Yup... been there; done that.
Hi Travis, Just wanted you to know I built my first real race quad (X210) by following your instructions on this video a year ago.
I still refer to it once and a while for some basic instructions that I still need reminded of. I recommend this video to every new guy gettin into the hobby. Thanks for all the info. Still a fan and subscriber.
Great! Thanks! I have to review it too every now and then when I mess with F3 boards.
its 2020 and i still love watching these vids from travis .
Great job as usual. You find the right level of explanation and action to keep the build interesting but not bogged down with repetitive junk. I always learn something I need to know from your vids that others assume we already knew. Thanks!
Thanks, I try not to have too much of "just watch me do this" without any narative.
Found the problem late last night. Don't know how it happen but my output on the tx had switch to P"W"M. I'm set for PPM. Once I form that motors armed (props on) wasn't expecting them to start up. All is well no lost fingers this time. Sat it down and wen to bed, problem solved . Lol. Thanks for your reply.
BTW don't know if u remember but I had build my first racing drone the X210 featured on your Chanel. I'd lost it on the second flight. Just built the second one and putting FPV and telemetry. Still using your page for reference. Great job thanks for helping us new guys.
Hey Travis, I just finished building my X210 kit with the 2600KV motors. Your build video was perfect for helping get the job done. I did a test flight today and it's a beast even with 3S battery. I added the following components below to complete the FPV and it was a very clean build.
Realacc HUBOSD ECO X Type PDB instead of the Matek PDB-XT60
Orange Foxeer XAT600M HS1177 Camera
Eachine TS5823L 5.8G 200mw 40CH Raceband Mini FPV Transmitter
DYS FPV 5.8G Antenna 4dBi Mushroom Antenna
Turnigy iA6C PPM/SBUS Receiver
Flysky FS-i6S 2.4G 10CH AFHDS 2A Transmitter
Thanks again for you great videos.
Awesome! I'm glad it was helpful to you! I think it is fun even on 3S because the 2600kv motors just spin so fast!
I forgot...I also used the Matek LED Tail light WS2512B with Buzzer. Fits perfectly.
I never usually comment on youtube videos but had to make an exception for this one to say thanks so much for taking the time to make it! Just a great explanation and walkthrough with loads of useful tips. Thanks!
Harry Gibson You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful.
Harry Gibson You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful.
I bought one after watching your video and I'm in the process of building it, this video is a tremendous help, much more detaled than most and your camera work is excellent. I would like to see you do a soldering video, you do a great soldering job. your pads and wires are tinned and connected perfectly .
Thanks! I'm not the best at soldering but I rarely have any wires come lose. Well, except for real small wires pulling off when I have bad crashes, but I blame that more on my crash than my soldering job. :)
Well, keep up the good work of producing drone video builds. I put my money where your mouth is.
Think I got everything straight. Flashed the ESCS and got the motors spinning in the right direction etc. Your video worked. Excellent job. I'm just not going to be able to fly it BC we are getting snow here now but I think I'm ready to move to your FPV video next. Thanks again.
Good, hopefully you find time to fly soon.
first timer in the fpv hobby. I learned a lot from this vid. thanks!
Good! I'm glad it was helpful to you!
Thanks again for putting this up. This kit was my first build and I would've struggled a LOT without this vid. Thanks heaps and happy flying!
Great! I'm glad it was helpful!
Build my first quadcopter today! I had some bad issues with binding and power to and from my FB, but your videos and one other youtuber helped me get it lined out! thank you for the video!
Good! I'm glad my videos were helpful!
Excellent video, the test flight looked so much like my old neighborhood in Lenexa, I started paying more attention and saw your KC FPV shirt and knew we were practically neighbors. For the record, this may have been the first hour long video I didn't skip ahead on!
John Swander Heh... Cool. We have races about once a month around KC, De Soto, and Topeka.
Travis - been lurking in your channel for quite a while. Thank you! Really appreciate the marathon effort you put into this
Thanks!
That seems like one wicked little quad. Great bang for the buck there
Yooo Travis! Just wanted to say thanks again for taking time to make this video, and suggest going with BF. Your suggestions and video helped me power through my first "real" mini quad build. My maiden went great, and it was surprising how agile these quads are, only multirotor I've flown before the x210 was a inductrix fpv with some hop up stuff from the tiny whoop guys. Take care man, looking forward to more videos from you. -Jamie
Great! You're welcome! I'm glad they were helpful to you!
It's nice to learn a bit more about what's going on in your head during a real build, and your editing was very good. It's also good to know that you fly pretty well. I'll be looking for #2 after the FPV gear is in, with particular interest in these motors. They did not sound the same during calibration, and they are quite inexpensive. Thanks for your efforts to advance the hobby.
I was a little hesitant about using these motors, but so far, I've probably put 15-20 packs through this quad and they're holding up nicely.
Thanks for the response. I did watch the whole video. Learned a lot and enjoyed. Time well spent.
Good! I'm glad it was helpful!
You finally choked me up enough that i got a clone, I'm gonna use it as a beat up quad with some cheap parts. Also got a tarot 130. Keep up the great work!
Heh... you'll like this kit.
Hi Travis!
Just wanted to say thanks for your build video on there Realacc x210. This is my very first build for a racing Quad and I followed your tutorial every inch of the way including buying the needed nylon spacers. The was no way to complete the build without it.
Long story short it's up in the air flying as of yesterday! Well in my garage. Lol. These Xframe are amazing. Thanks again Travis. Next are the Leds and waterproofing this quad
Awesome! I'm glad it was helpful to you and I'm glad it is flying!
thanks, getting the 30amp 2300kv set here any day...man i can wait. looks great!
I think you'll like it.
Yep, i sure do. Thank you for the build video. It helped alot.
Travis! Banggood owes you a commission on this one. My first quad was BNF but this X210 will be my first build. Your videos gave me the confidence to give it a shot. Well paced, fun, & detailed. All the parts arrived today...can't wait to get started!
Awesome! It should be a good quad for you. If you are worried about this one being fast, it does fly real well (a bit doggy though) on 2S. We've had a few local people build one and they tried a 3S battery and a 2S battery. They all bought a single 2S battery to practice with. They didn't want to give up their 3S batteries though. I think you'll like it!
travisgrindal X210 flies great! Q: the XT60 placement causes the battery cables to hang below the battery. Landings stress out the solder connections and loosen the plug from the PDB. Has this happened to you? Suggestions?
Really enjoyed that video - I get mine next week, so will follow again when it comes to actually building it.
Don't forget to turn airmode on for control at min throttle. Very nice video! Happy flying.
If you set the min throttle up high enough, you don't need to turn on airmode.... I think they both achieve the same thing.
i'd like to hear more on that... and also no damped light on those blheli-s esc's? i noticed when i engage acro mode, on the ground only so far... the props spin slower than my min throttle which is itself pretty low... and just outta curiosity, how do you disarm when you hand catch the quad, ps.. '' oh holy mackerel ..'' i'm glad its not just me who is a bit taken aback by these 210 4s quads..
I don't have the kit but I used that frame on my last build and I love it. It's easy to build and work on and it flies great.
Yeah, me too. I have this frame built out and another x210 with other parts. I kind of like this one better. :)
Really? What do you have on the other one?
This one.... ruclips.net/video/Y_PqX-1sGps/видео.html
Interested in what you think is making the kit better? BF 3.0 vs. 2.9.1? Motors/ESC's ? Receiver?
Wow! so much power! I really like how much enthusiasm you have.
Thanks! These 2600kv motors are insane.
I can really recommend you dab a little rosin solder flux on any wires/pads to be soldered.(Maybe a little hotter iron temp too). Try it... you'll love it and you'll get much better joints too!
I'll give it a shot.
DAB'S? Rosin? Happy 710 :)
after watching this whole video it's definitely 7:10 time for some rosin =
Best guide I've ever seen
congratulations
Thanks Travis! I just finished my build with your help. Love your channel keep up the good work!
You're welcome! Hopefully yours flies, right?!
Yes sir! Full telemetry though Frsky. Upgrade from ZMR 250 . Super nice quad, Thanks again! I bought kit for $90 with coupon.
$90 was a steal.
Ordered the same kit with 30a esc and 4mm plate 2 weeks ago, should be here soon, i already got the 4s infinity 70c 1300mah batterys for it, looks like a easy build but im planning on welding wires directly on the f3 board with no plugs at all to save room as it is a tight build
Yeah! Direct soldering the ESC wires would be better.
travis... thank you for such a detailed video! you just walked me through every step of my build!
You're welcome. I'm glad it was helpful!
I am looking to buy this kit and have never built a drone.. thanks a ton for these videos! you rock.
Thanks! This is a great quad. It is still my favorite quad to race. In fact, I raced it this past weekend in Omaha, NE and I'm racing it again this weekend in Kansas City.
would you recommend this for a first "hobby" grade drone? currently flying hubsans and symas
Yeah, I would. It can fly on 2S, 3S, and 4S batteries just fine. Also, it's cheap price and good performance make it a good choice too. This video I'm linking to is a similar quad but has 2300kv motors. The X210 kit in the build video comes with 2600kv, which are what I actually prefer. Anyway, this video shows the difference between 2S, 3S, and 4S battery power: ruclips.net/video/g_oKU9ACYYI/видео.html
Thanks for the video, as a first time builder this will help a lot.
Good, I have a part coming soon where I setup Telemetry (for the Taranis transmitter) and install the FPV gear.
Great build video, I also bought the same kit, have just finished the build after watching your video ..helped at lot as I'm new to the hobby, still not maidened it yet ,weather not good here in the U.K.
Good! I'm glad this was helpful. Hopefully you get a chance to fly soon!
Great video thanks, just getting into. this hobby and it's one of the frames I want to build. Can I offer you a tip for soldering though, if you clean your soldering iron tip regularly you get much better heat transfer which gives you cleaner solder joints and can help reduce lifting pads on a PCB because you get it and out faster.
The easiest way I've found is not to use a damp sponge but rather a metal scrubbing pad like you use in the kitchen. You can get "proper" tip cleaning ones but I've been using a silver kitchen scrubber for 20 years. Just drag the tip across it a few times and then tin the tip with shoulder so it doesn't oxidise. Do it whenever the tip goes from shiny silver looking to dull and you'll get great results, I use a 35watt Goot iron with no temp control and can solder everything from the most delicate surface mount parts to chunky power connectors no problem if the tip is nice and clean. Cheers.
I have one of the wire mesh cleaner things for my iron. I can tell now when it gets dirty because the solder doesn't melt and flow as quickly as it should. I've also started using resin to give it a good cleaning every now and then. That gets it real shiny! I cover it in solder, clean it off, and boy does it melt solder quickly! Heh... :)
+travisgrindal yeah you wouldn't think it would make much difference because the iron burns your fingers just as good when it's dirty lol, but the difference in heat transfer is amazing. Solder always wants to run to where its hottest and because a dirty tip doesn't transfer heat to other metal as efficiently it wants to ball up on the iron rather than flow to the pad or wires.
Travis, thanks loads for this video! So much info that helps me. 👍🏼
Good! I hope it is flying well!
These motors get hot because of a flaw in the design of the base. Air can't be drawn through the motor because the holes on the bottom of the motor are covered by the frame. These high KV motors need good cooling because they generally get hotter. If you look at EMAX (and many others) motors for instance, there is cutouts that allow air to be drawn through the motor when it's bolted to the frame. Racerstar changed this in the RF2205S motors (wonder why?) but also raised the price.
Hey that was a great vid, thanks. I really like ur commentary style and you have a laugh while you are enjoying ur hobby - plus you are a gun pilot!!
Thanks!
I just got a good deal on this kit.. going to build it this weekend. thanks for the instructions :)
You're welcome! This X210 kit is one of my favorite quads.
Cool , build my x210... love it , flies great . Waiting for the sx220 build . Just ordered one . The flight control is going to be a challenge. I wanna see your build on that
I'll check it out. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the vids, they have helped me .Keep them coming,will watch all.
Nice video Travis.
Much appreciated !
Thanks!
Thanks for the good videos. Regards, Jukka Komu from Finland :)
what a little beast! great video mate, really helpful!
Thanks! I really like this quad.
Wow, that really is impressive for the price and 3S at the end there!
The 2600kv motors make 3S batteries look good. :)
travisgrindal 3s is for calibration like first time connecting to make sure no magic smoke right? Man I'm ramping up to go 6s! Where you at Travis? Lol.. Dys and race stars cheap motors that can go 6s right? 5s lipo only 25 bucks bg.com zop I think is the brand
3S can toast your electronics too. I suggest people use 3S when they are starting to learn to fly because it is easier to control than the power of 4S. The motors and ESCs are only rated for 2S-4S. I don't know what would happen with 5S or 6S.
I'm in Kansas.
It will fly fine on 3S. If you have it wired wrong, 3S will fry it just like 4S. I haven't flown anything over 4S yet. I'm in Kansas.
Thanks Travis, great video!
Really cool video :-) Thanks for all the info and the tips on the tuning.
Sure! You're welcome!
Love all your vids and finally subscribed. This vid really helps as I just started this hobby. Thanks Travisgrindal. Keep up the passion.
Great vid! I am supanoob in FPV racing drones and your video is really really useful to understand what to do (and what NOT to do ^_^ ) for bulding my future DIY drone! Thanks sir! :-)
Great job.Keep up the good work!!!
Thanks!
Hey man awesome video and detail to this build ... thank you
Thanks!
Awesome tutorial how to build the racing copter. Even I found useful things here for my next build. Thanks!
3 hours to build the quad - seems you have a lot of building practice. Usually it take 3-4 evenings after work for me :)
Hello! Can you help me. I am beginner, I want this quad, but Taranis is very expensive for me. CAn I use Radiolink AT9 for example?
Yes. You must change receiver to compatible with AT9 - R6D, R6DS, R6DSM, R9D... Connect it to FC via SBUS or PPM. I recommend to remove case, desolder pins and put receiver into shrink tube to save space though. I use AT9 with GX210 frame (same as X210 from inside) and R9D without case and pins.
Oh, thank you very much for the detailed answer!))
KrotowX Hey! so can I use a fsia 6b receiver on this moma joma??! or where can I order the right size wire harness for that so I can use s bus..? If yk what I mean. Thanks!
Well, with practice build times became shorter. Now it is 3-4h for planning and one night for building if all parts fit. Of course, latest improvements in FC construction and stackable boards with 4-in-1 ESCs made building much easier as well.
Did you know...
You don't need 6" of antenna sticking out of the quadcopter!
The bit that does the work is the end 35mm.
You can loose the extra cable in the build either by routing or winding. Just make sure the tip of the ant is mounted as usual.
Good to know. I'm glad I didn't cut them off because I had to move the receiver from the top plate to the lower plate when I added the FPV gear. They look a little shorter now... but still good to know.
Hey man, you got the motor position wrong. It does not really matter with brushless motors as you probably know, but now you miss the self locking feature.
I did it wrong too because of the arrow direction on top, it shows you which way to turn loose, not the spinning direction.
On the side you can see "CW / CCW", if mount them according to that information, you'll mount them on the right position.
I saw locknuts come loose and drones crash because of it, so i think this is a useful feature.
And about the cooling: if you place washers underneath the motor it should be able to have some airflow.
My 2300kv has air vents in the bottom.
essegeo the way that I have them on is correct. When the propellers hit something, they will tighten the nut instead of loosening it.
Ok weird, i'm very sure i have it the other way around. It's confirmed by the CW/CCW markings on the side.
that thing is freakin awesome!!!
subscribed!! you helped me so much and just to think i gave up trying to flash beta on the sp board i seen this video not expecting to resolve that but yet you helped me find the way.
Good! I'm glad it was helpful!
Thanks to your video I now know how to flash BHeli ESC by looking at the screen on your computer screen to find the download link for BHeli suite keep up the good work like subs.
Heh... good. I'm glad it was helpful!
this is a super helpful video.thank you very very much
Good!
I got inspired by your video & ordered the RTF from bangood - This will be my first hobby grade quad - THe Radio is flysky with comes with it in RTF kit. I'm a bit nervous whether ive made the correct decision.
I think you'll like it!
I bought a set of these BR2205s 2600kv Motors. I am using the same 30amp speed controllers and Dal Cyclone T5045C Props. 1300mah 70C graphene 4s lipos.
My Motors do not get hot at all. They do not even get the slightest bit warm.
I understand that this quadcopter kit comes with 5040 props, which is what is being used in this video. Can't understand how they are getting hot.
They were getting a little warm when I was flying in this video and I'm not sure why either. I'm still flying the original frame, motors, and ESCs and haven't had a single 'heat' issue. I check my motors a lot now and they are rarely even warm. I don't get it but I am a huge fan of this quad.
big daddy ,I really appreciate your builds.. I followed your video step by step. I'm really kinda stump on the jumper that you had to plug in to get the beta to flash. this is my first build ever and I'm trying so hard to not look ignorant,, lol maybe you could in lighten me if possible.. thanks for your videos ps really dug your singing lol
The jumper is just to short those two pins together. I've also used a pocket knife to short them. By shorting those pins together the flight board gets into "DFU" mode, which basically makes it easier to upload the firmware. There's nothing special about the jumper.
nice video...again.
I have this frame with my leftover cobra 2204, littlebee 20A. and fpv set-up.
love it!
the 2205 racerstar on the way.
now hurry up and make the telemetry video :)
it would be nice if you explained how to have telemetry and a micro minimosd at the same time.
I have it running on a Naze now.
but I have the same board coming my way in a few days.
keep up the good work.
The telemetry and VTX/camera video should be coming soon!
no osd?
Really an exceptional video friend. Lots of work I'm sure. Thank you a bunch. I'm new at this sport, 100 batteries I guess? Looking at a build and this video nailed it. Editing was GREAT. We can feel your energy. Keep up the GREAT work. *SUBSCRIBED*. -Cole
Thanks!
Any hobby store will carry a battery tester friend. Around $15 but you can find them on line for $3 or $4. They don't last forever so I'd but 2 or 3.
Travis,
I've been considering doing a build for awhile but thought it might be to much, so I purchased a RTF Vendetta and have been flying it. But after I came across your video I purchased the X210. Which 3S and 4S batteries did you use and would you recommend for this build? You have a gift of teaching, very easy to follow and a caring interest in helping people in this hobby. Don't stop doing videos you are one of the best! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge! Keep up the great job! Already planning a custom build after this one is done!
Thanks! That is good to hear. We had a local build class where we had about 12 of these kits built. It should be a a fairly easy build with this video. This quad is fast! We have had a few people buy 2S batteries to calm it down while they learn to fly. It is surprising to me how well this quad flies even on 2S.
GR8 build Travis
mine will be here tomorrow so excited i also bought some Blade Thrust motors i hear they are good
OMG this camera angle :) im scared
Heh... if it looks like too much, try using us a 1.8mm lens. That will open up the field of view quite a bit and you should be able to see the ground during take off.
dude i have these motors from Blade the Thrust 2205 2650kv I am the proud owner of Holy Shit lol ill post a video tomorrow you gotta get some
and i am loving this quad and that angle :)
I have watched many videos for x210 build and yours is by far the best ! really friendly, in detail and most important easy to understand explanation you have done , I also ordered because of you!! :) if you can do a radiolink at9s review I will appreciate since there isn't many (there is only at9 reviews) thank you so much and please keep it up.
Thanks! That is good to hear.
package arrived
started to build:)
the esc overview at the top of the page save you check through the motors tab in bf witch dirrection the motors are spinning save you time.
Travis; you already know, solder flux makes cleaner welds
Wish they would produce a choice of two top plate. One for a gopro, the other for a runcam type of camera. Liking the quad though.
I agree. I have a RunCam and it is a bit awkward on top.
That's a great price, damn tempting :)
This is really a nice quad! Of course, it is using the "Racerstar" motors and they haven't been out long so it is hard to know what their life span will be, but for $7 each, they are easily replaceable.
they are super smooth, pretty tough and awesome. throw in the price and you're in heaven. probably wont beat the emax or top end motors but they will definitely hang in there.
the specs of that "cheapie quad" are well above what you would have paid $500 for a year or so ago.
Racestar motor
Hi Travis, here's an updater for you. A few weeks ago I wrote that I had lost my X210 the second day out. 3.5 weeks later the thing showed up. The people that found it were good enough to put an add in the paper for lost drone. Crazy thing is I had talked to the guy 3 weeks ago when I first lost it. He even helped me look for it in a field next to his home. His 4 year old grandson was visiting and playing in the field and found it. I forgot to leave my phone number back when I was there 3+ weeks ago so they put an add in the local paper hoping I'd see it. My mother-in-law saw the add while I was out of town. She called and gave me the number hoping it was my drone and sure enough it was.....
I had already ordered another one so now I have two.
I could tell is had landed upside down so the bottom frame shed most of the water away from the boards and no dirt or corrosion was in the motors. There was a lot of rain during the time it was out there. I cleaned it up, checked it out, bound it up and she took off flying. After a few light laps I punched and it rocketed into the air like there was no tomorrow. Thought you'd like to here the good news.
Still following your builds on the X210. Adding camera, telemetry, lights and more. Also upgraded to the Taranis QX7 (it hasn't came in yet). Now for the big hurdle over the cost of fat shark goggles.
Not sure when I'll be able to drop the coins needed for those things. Anyway......thanks and happy flying !!!!!!
That is awesome! I'm glad you got it back and that it STILL FLEW! That is amazing. Several of my friends have bought the FatShark Transformers. They use a small removable TV screen instead of 2 small LEDs. The picture is real clear and the cost is a little lower than other FatSharks. Maybe they'd be worth considering: www.banggood.com/Fatshark-FSV1104-Transformer-HD-Bundle-5_8G-720P-FPV-Goggles-Full-Panel-Viwer-Headset-p-1113994.html?p=6Z050013977120130325
Really important question about Min-Throttle at 56:30. I am planning to migrate to Betaflight from MultiWii because if I throttle full down (Off) my props are set for Min-Throttle and they Do keep spinning. BUT, there is also a Min-Check value and once you go below Min-Check, then you totally lose yaw, roll, and pitch control. I understood that Betaflight has something called Air mode and this keeps the yaw, roll, and pitch always enabled, even at full stick down. Really sounds like you are full down on throttle almost before you start to roll or pitch over.
Air mode keeps the props spinning even when the throttle is zero. Raising your min throttle does essentially the same thing. I think air mode may do more but I'm not 100% sure.
Good Job there..thnx......yeah keep the good work
The motors might be getting toasty because the bottom screws might be touching the windings. I noticed these on my 2600kv motors and when I switched to shorter screws they didn't get as hot.
If I take it easy on the motors, they are just fine and barely warm. When I push them and do a lot of full throttle flying, then they come down a pretty warm. :)
I may try some shorter screws anyway.
Warm motors are typically a sign of either pids that are too high, or filters too high.
So did the trick with the shorter screws help?
TEST.. it is quite simple.. Voltmeter, touch frame with negative, set meter to resistance.., and hit each contact on ESC, all 3. on all 4 esc's. NOTE the results.. You will get an odd result, higher than others if your screws are contacting.. And yes, contacting screws can fly fine, just drain battery more, and heat upthe motors more, and yeah throttle will increase the heat.. The type of carbon fibre can make a huge difference in conductivity. Sometimes, you can touch the carbon arms, under/around the motors and feel heat in the carbon, after flight.. This indicates a short as well.
You are a enjoyable person to watch you videos. LOL Keep the good work.
Thanks! I enjoy making these videos.
Amazing video
Thanks Travis, I'm using the FY-i6s and am now connected. New issue, still operating without props (thank goodness) when I hit the throttle the motors run away to top speed. I have no control except for full power and they shut down when I drop throttle to bottom. Didn't do the BLHeli ESC calibration just did the one in Betaflight. Do you think this is the problem. If yes could you provide a link for BLHeli I can't find the download but will keep looing. Thanks again for your time. The build has been fun to follow. Looking forward to the FPV and other modifications soon.
Hi Travis, first off I want to thank you for this video. This video has given me alot helpful information to get me started in this hobby. I did this build around 2 months ago and absolutely love it.
I still do not have any fpv gear and was wondering if you could recommend a good camera and vtx combination. I was thinking of a Runcam or Hs1177 style camera but don't have a clue as to what vtx to get. AND maybe a wiring tip for vtx to camera because I hear some of the vtx's that people use do not not supply 5v for camera. Note my 12v pad on pdb is still open. I was assuming that if the VTX cannot power the camera i would have to solder camera to 12 volt pad on pdb board. If you could help me out with the fpv part I would greatly appreciate it. Again thank you for your videos and keep up the great work.
The Runcam Owl is one of the best looking pictures I've seen. I don't have one myself yet, but some of my friends do and when I watch their feed, it is so clear. I've been using the cheap CMOS cameras because... well, they're cheap. I did have a Foxeer HS1177 camera and it was great till I smashed into a large tree branch and broke it. It is also available in BG's US Warehouse. www.banggood.com/Foxeer-HS1177-Sony-600TVL-CCD-2_8MM-IR-Mini-FPV-Camera-5-17v-with-Bracket-p-1047125.html?p=6Z050013977120130325
I have a video on adding the VTX and camera to this quad. It is the second part of this build video... ruclips.net/video/LueXntB8p3E/видео.html
Thanks for replying Travis. Don't know how I missed your video on fpv setup but I will definitely view and like it. Not sure of the difference but I need that NTSC version correct?
last question, which antennas do you have best luck with when using patch and clovers. Going for two antenna diversity set up.
Again I greatly appreciate you replying and you're helpful information.
thanks for your video!! very helpful!!
Nice build :) I really want this frame too :)
still coming back to this video everytime i have to replace and reflash esc's lol
Heh... I've had to reference it a lot myself to reconfigure my flight board.
nice!!
see you next Sunday
tiger exhaust I was good meeting you and flying with you! Come out again to our next race!
Travis, you must be the "Gotta get this guy" -- guy for the suppliers. Love to -- watch all your videos-- you are straight up! Hey, my 210 got loose in my garage (high ceilings) and had this awful crash-- went to the floor-- more bashing ( all at less than a second). Now when I arm the motors- it shakes violently. I have re-calibrated-- nothing. Any ideas?
If I was guessing, I'd guess that something got messed up on the flight board and hopefully a fresh re-flash of betaflight will fix it. It was probably a gyro or something. Does it go crazy if you are not in auto-level mode (just acro)?
Betaflight news: solder the motor's wires straight, reverse them when flashing ESC.
Either way works... reverse the motor wires or change it in BLHeliSuite.
Thanks for posting. I was wondering how the 2600kv versions would go.
I really like the 2300kv and with 5x5x3 king kongs they just get warm after belting the hell out of them.
If you have tried the 2300kv's can you give a comparison in terms of power, speed and heat?
I was wondering if you needed to change from 1shot to something else for the blheli_s to get the most out of them.
The new versions of blheli, betaflight and the braking may be adding extra heat by forcing esc;s to stop or react in super quick time.
modes: I have horizon for landing and trouble, rate mode, then airmode.
Airmode sweetens the end of the throtle for flips and rolls and raises the min cmd a bit.
thanks for posting.
I don't have a set of the 2300kv. I bought a set of EMAX red bottoms that were 2600kv for my Detroit Multirotors frame and thought they were awesome. They get a little warm too with 4S, but I feel a big thrust difference between them and my other 2300kv motors. They also have a different sound to them. Right now I'm on a 2600kv kick and anything new I build will probably have 2600kv or higher on them. A while back I had some 3200kv EpicRC motors and they were crazy. One finally pooped out on me. I don't think it liked 4S batteries very well. :)
cheers and thanks.
I have dys mr2205 2700kv's on a quad and they will eat a hole in the sky but I end up in the trees too often with them. they dont get warm and can hold 30a continuous without much temp.
cheers and keep up the posting.
that quad is a beast! big like & new sub.
Thanks! I really like this quad!
First of all thanks for answering all of the questions I had for this build. I really appreciate that. What size screws did you end up getting bc in the frame review you showed how the ones that came with it are to short.?
Travis, I noticed you do all your reviews with the stock Betaflight rates. When you fly for fun or race, are you still flying with these slow rates? I was just thinking that it would be challenging to fly all these different copters if you were constantly changing rates. For example, I have all of my copters a the same rates. If I migrate faster rates , all of my ships get the new rates. I like predictability. Then again, if the stock rates work for you, more power to you.
I have an issue, the X4R-SB with Taranis are bound, Telemetry is ok, FPV system is good, the ESC's calibration is done, motors spinning in the right directions, calibrated accelerometer, had to change to TAER1234 to have mode2 because it was inverted- On first flight I armed the quad and I as able to hover for some time,, started to give some punch and do some moves and started to go crazy so I crashed. Maybe is something with the modes but I was not using throttle and the quad was at full speed when crashed---- :/
Great videos man, you seem to be having a good time while getting footage for your reviews too (not a bland experience to watch like others). That being said, I CANNOT WAIT FOR MY X210!!
P.S. Do you know of any simple clamp/clip that would hold XT60 battery plugs together? This is the reason why I am waiting on a new build because my first build had its battery unplugged during a crash (assuming because of branches and stuff on the way down), so my buzzer was completely useless... T_T
Thanks!
Humm... I'm not sure about the XT60 locking pieces. I've never seen them. That is a good idea. I think there some XT60 connectors that have locks built into them. I had forgotten about them. I may look into them again.
hey Travis really like this build video im watching it again and again . Im new to the hobby and i dont know which kit i choose . The 2300kv kit or 2600kv kit ? thanks again for this nice video!!!
Excellent video! Do you know what the amp draw is on those motors with the King Kong 5040's? I was wondering if I could run my 3s 2200mah 30c lipo?
I just found your video as I have been thinking of upgrading from my cheap drones to the racing drones. Your video is so thorough, clear and well organized. It has made me decide to order one of these kits when they become available again (Banggood are on backorder it seems in November 2017). I have two questions: 1. What battery does this use? (You mention using s3 and s4 but are they different mAh ratings?) Does the Flight Controller include a receiver? Sorry for my ignorance but these are the only unclear issues for me. For the record, I just added an FPV system to my little Husban H502E drone so that part is good but your tip on connecting directly to the power feed is very helpful. Thank you very much for putting these videos together for us.
This quad will fly very tame on a 2S battery, more aggressive on 3S and at race speeds on 4S. Different cell counts ("S" rating) increases the voltage and the quad's performance. The "mAh" is similar to "how much gas is in the tank". I don't do any tuning changes when I change between different cell-count batteries. I normally race with 4S 1300mAh or 4S 1500mAh batteries. Larger batteries will help it fly longer but make it less responsive to stick inputs. Lighter batteries make it more responsive but you get less flight time. 1300 is enough to give it about 3 minutes of pushing-the-throttle-hard flight time.
You have to provide your own receiver and connect it to the flight board. The only transmitter and receiver I'm familiar with is the FrSky Taranis. In this video, I connect the receiver using "SBUS". SBUS allows all the signals to go across one wire from the receiver to the flight board. Older PPM receivers had to have one wire for each channel - I do not recommend using PPM.
Hey buddy great video. I was thinking about doing this as my first build. This bcuz saves money or the impulse rc alien. However I noticed you didn't go through the set up for the camera. Did I miss that? Your build is great but I'm looking for something I can go step by step all the way through including camera set up. Thanks for the input.
travisgrindal sorry about that I jumped the gun. You definitely got into that in the next video. I think I'm going to try this kit. Thanks again.
It really is a good kit. It is fast and I've been trying to push it harder than I have in the past. I really want to pull off a win at one of our races but we have some great pilots who are hard to beat.
The cw or ccw direction on the motors is NOT reffering to the actual direction in wich the motors are spinning but the threads direction on the motor's shaft (in wich way the nut threads)
Correct, I may have said it wrong in the video. This is the longest video I've ever recorded.
Great video Travis! I'm on a pretty tight budget so I used a Flysky FS-i6 transmitter and a Flysky FS-X6B receiver using the PWM port to connect the receiver to the control board. I'm an amateur at this and it's not working but I'm not sure what I've done wrong or how exactly it works. Could you please help me out? Thanks in advance.
--Joseph
I don't have experience with that receiver, but instead of using the PWM port, use either the i-BUS or PPM ports instead. The PWM will need a 1-to-1 connection for each channel and I don't know that the SP Racing F3 board supports that. It should work with the PPM connection though. The i-BUS would probably be more ideal, but I haven't tried that for myself yet.
travisgrindal thanks, I had to buy a new receiver in the end but it's all up and running now👍