Thanks for your comments. There is no easy way except hard work. Unless you have room for a small digger. Keep gradients to the minimum possible, the maximum depends on the type of locos and rolling stock. Obviously 4 children are lighter than adults.
@@nutmeg5032 thanks for the quick response, I'm looking at building a railway in my back garden and its going to need lots of curves. Im just wondering how you created your curves so evenly, do you need a template or anything when your bending the rail?Also do you know how much the alice quarry hunslet steam loco can pull. many thanks
My wife asked me to build a 5" gauge railway at our home in Portugal. Hope to be running in the next few weeks. Biggest problem we had was levelling our land, it took two years to get the bed laid.
Yes gradients can be a problem, even the smallest ones. But the work involved will be worth it. Good luck with the railway. Perhaps you could film it sometime, I would like to see it.
@@nutmeg5032 Just a little work to be done. The rolling stock has been re-painted, the loco controller burned out so I got another. I have just a bit of work to do on the siding and into the engine shed, plus signaling. My grandchildren came over in October and drove several days, they are coming back to Portugal later this year, and I hope their mother will have a drive too!
Wow Nutmeg50%, you have a really lovely railway there. You have inspired me so much. Thank you. On the note of the plastic siding warping in the sun, it really does not distract from the overall effect of the railway. You know about it, but unless you point it out to people, they won't even notice. Enjoy your trains, I am jealous. Best wishes.
Love that you built your own track. Myself wouldn't bend rails using wood brick method. I would however figure out how to put together a bender using cpl wheels. Like an English wheel for shaping metal in car industry. That way you can have a smooth curve transition.
I like your railway and your signal box. You have got quite tight radius curves. My five inch garden railway uses steel rail as I found the Aluminium rail too greasy for my 1/37 gradients. All my fishplates and track use stainless steel nuts, bolts and screws so I can always undo anything. Sleepers are preserve treated wood and some skip salvaged scrap 7/8" thick PVC Ex fascia boarding that will never rot. This cuts up to size with a normal jigsaw and then a quick spray of matt brown paint.
Thanks for your comments. I’m afraid my railway was put together over time using some track which my grandson had used when he was young. This added to when ever I could with some refinements such as wooden sleepers . Your railway sounds much more professional, well done.
Brilliant video and very helpful, thanks, can you tell me more about the screws you use to hold the track to the wooden battens and where you get them from?
@@richardpage3495 Thank you for your comments. The screws I think, were a Pan head self drilling type about 16to20mm long . Or you could use any screw but put a larger washer underneath the head so it grips the rail.
To help stop derailing due to heating of the rails in summer, if you elongate the holes in the rails for the fish plates it will allow the rails to expand and contract the fish plates will still hold the rails but you shouldn’t have as many issues …the holes don’t need to be expanded a great amount possibly 2mm on 6 mm holes would make a big difference 👍👍
Yes thanks, I forgot to mention that, that`s the trouble with these videos, you always remember something afterwards. Also you must leave a gap between the rail ends, although I have not had too many problems, perhaps here on the coast it never gets hot enough. But thanks for your comment.
I made it out of some spare pieces of wood plus a few new pieces. It`s to my own design but based roughly on a real one. I just thought it adds a bit more interest to the railway. Thanks for your kind comment.
I think that the problem with the plastic sleepers is not that they are hollow.- they are designed that way to allow the ballast to fill the voids and hold them well in place. I think that your issue is the pea shingle. Ballast, as on the big railway, should have sharp hard edges to enable it to lock together. Pea shingle stones just move against each other allowing the sleepers to move. Limestone chippings of a suitable size - I use 8 or 10mm - allows the track to move a little bit but for the most part holds it firmly in place. This ballast drains well, is cheap to buy in big bags and breaks up very easily if you decide to make changes.
Thank you for your observations. I do agree about the ballast having sharp pieces in, I actually use pea gravel, which I mistakenly called peas shingle in the video. But in my experience with mine and other railways, wooden sleepers are superior in any type of ballast.
@@nutmeg5032 I've used 14mm green granite for ballast. These angular stones bite the sleepers. My PNP plastic sleepers aren't yet lifting, but I'm now looking out for it. I've only laid the track down last year, so a little way to go. Nice video - -thanks for sharing.
@@RanmoreCommonRailway Thanks for your comment. I think yours will be fine, any ballast that grips the sleepers should be ok , it’s just that I prefer wooden sleepers as they are not so smooth as plastic, also if you run live steam they don’t melt from hot embers .
I am impressed with what you have done in a relatively small space. I notice that most of the time your locos are running free, at first I thought radio control but having watched all, I think you just set the speed controller to a low setting. Can you carry a couple of passengers round those 8ft radius curves or is it only safe for unloaded vehicles. Very nice set up, thanks for showing us.
Thank you for your comments. I have a selection of controllers, some are fitted with a joystick safety type, others are just knobs that can be set to a certain speed and some can control the sound and horn on the larger engine. The small Ruston is fitted with remote control for power only. The big engine will easily pull myself and one other person round or several children providing they keep still.
Hello .. wow it's really wonderful video, Thank you for sharing, I really want to building garden railway but where can i buy all this stuff from? much appreciate,
Thank you for your comments. The track and rolling stock can sometimes be found on ebay. Or there are other suppliers of new and used items, such as Maxitrak of Kent, England, or PNP Railways also in England. Hope this helps.
Thanks for your comments. Both green and blue locos are the same, overall length 1250 mm. wheel centres on the bogies are 240mm. I have some very tight curves (2.4mm radius) but a long loco or wagon will go round provided it`s on bogies.
I'm considering starting a garden railway and I was looking at pnp, would it not be possible to pour a small amount if concrete into the sleeper to add weight to stop them lifting?
I wouldn’t bother, just use a rough type ballast, I use 10mm pea gravel and I’ve not had any issues. Alternatively you could use wooden sleepers although that requires more skill in setting the gauge. Basically you need the ballast to grip the sleepers. Hope this helps.
There is a motor on each axle powered by 2x 12v car batteries, and controlled by electronics via a hand held speed controller.sound modules and horns are similarly powered and controlled. I hope that makes sense.
Now you see why some Australian railway tracks are distorted. Australia gets far higher temperatures than the UK ever does. When you now the lawn does your mower miss the tracks? Good layout though.
you shouldn't really use pea shingle because the stones are round. these don't lock together, and move around. a better material is the 15mm granite chippings as they do bind together, and that is why the sleepers eventually walk themselves out of the ballast as each time you go over it, the ballast will move and work their way under the sleepers lifting them up. if you changed your ballast you'd probably find the plastic sleepers will bed in much more solid
Thanks for your comments. It has been mentioned before, but most of what I use is actually pea gravel and to be fair I’ve never had any problems with track lifting ,but I know it does happen, and it seems to affect plastic sleepers more.
Great video, thanks for posting it! I've often wondered about doing a railway like yours, but being unsure of a method has put me off. Do you think you could give an estimate of what it cost you for the rails, sleepers, points and ballast please? many thanks, Pete.
Thanks for your comments Pete. As a rough estimate I would say about £32 per metre. That`s for aluminum rail, plastic sleepers and chairs, fishplates and gravel. But you could use timber sleepers with screw fixings which would be cheaper. Also the larger the layout, ecconomies of scale would work in your favour. ie, you could buy the gravel in bulk bags. But it`s not a cheap hobby. Hope this helps.By the way, that’s for plain , does not include points.
Roy C Horton, you do actually need planning permission... From your Better Half. But then again, it is easier to ask for forgiveness than to ask for permission 😂😂😂
thanks for the upload really helpful❤Is there any east way to flattern out the landsape and whats the max gradient for a loco with 4 people thanks
Thanks for your comments. There is no easy way except hard work. Unless you have room for a small digger. Keep gradients to the minimum possible, the maximum depends on the type of locos and rolling stock. Obviously 4 children are lighter than adults.
@@nutmeg5032 thanks for the quick response, I'm looking at building a railway in my back garden and its going to need lots of curves. Im just wondering how you created your curves so evenly, do you need a template or anything when your bending the rail?Also do you know how much the alice quarry hunslet steam loco can pull. many thanks
My wife asked me to build a 5" gauge railway at our home in Portugal. Hope to be running in the next few weeks. Biggest problem we had was levelling our land, it took two years to get the bed laid.
Yes gradients can be a problem, even the smallest ones. But the work involved will be worth it. Good luck with the railway. Perhaps you could film it sometime, I would like to see it.
@@nutmeg5032 Just a little work to be done. The rolling stock has been re-painted, the loco controller burned out so I got another. I have just a bit of work to do on the siding and into the engine shed, plus signaling. My grandchildren came over in October and drove several days, they are coming back to Portugal later this year, and I hope their mother will have a drive too!
This is very cool. If I had a garden I would build one 😎
Thanks, maybe one day you will, I had to wait 67 years before I built mine.
Wonderful video and advice, really appreciate it, thankyou 🙂
Thank you for your kind comments.
Nice video a good insight into the aspects of garden railway building
Thanks, I thought it might be useful for a few people.
beautiful video, thanks for sharing
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
Brilliant training. Cheers!
Thank you.
Wow Nutmeg50%, you have a really lovely railway there. You have inspired me so much. Thank you.
On the note of the plastic siding warping in the sun, it really does not distract from the overall effect of the railway. You know about it, but unless you point it out to people, they won't even notice. Enjoy your trains, I am jealous. Best wishes.
Thank you for your very kind comments.
Love that you built your own track. Myself wouldn't bend rails using wood brick method. I would however figure out how to put together a bender using cpl wheels. Like an English wheel for shaping metal in car industry. That way you can have a smooth curve transition.
Each to his own I guess. So far it has worked for me, I try to do everything myself if I can, but I get your point. Thanks for your comment anyway.
I like your railway and your signal box. You have got quite tight radius curves. My five inch garden railway uses steel rail as I found the Aluminium rail too greasy for my 1/37 gradients. All my fishplates and track use stainless steel nuts, bolts and screws so I can always undo anything. Sleepers are preserve treated wood and some skip salvaged scrap 7/8" thick PVC Ex fascia boarding that will never rot. This cuts up to size with a normal jigsaw and then a quick spray of matt brown paint.
Thanks for your comments. I’m afraid my railway was put together over time using some track which my grandson had used when he was young. This added to when ever I could with some refinements such as wooden sleepers . Your railway sounds much more professional, well done.
That was really helpful - Thanks! Tom
Thanks I’m glad it was useful.
Brilliant video and very helpful, thanks, can you tell me more about the screws you use to hold the track to the wooden battens and where you get them from?
@@richardpage3495 Thank you for your comments. The screws I think, were a Pan head self drilling type about 16to20mm long . Or you could use any screw but put a larger washer underneath the head so it grips the rail.
To help stop derailing due to heating of the rails in summer, if you elongate the holes in the rails for the fish plates it will allow the rails to expand and contract the fish plates will still hold the rails but you shouldn’t have as many issues …the holes don’t need to be expanded a great amount possibly 2mm on 6 mm holes would make a big difference 👍👍
Yes thanks, I forgot to mention that, that`s the trouble with these videos, you always remember something afterwards. Also you must leave a gap between the rail ends, although I have not had too many problems, perhaps here on the coast it never gets hot enough. But thanks for your comment.
Love this well done
A very interesting video on how to lay the track, one day I might have ago myself to build a layout like that.
Thank you. Yes try it yourself, it`s not difficult.
Yes I will sometime in the future I hope.
Looks great Nutmeg, hopefully with the good weather on it’s way back plenty of use out of it this summer!
Thank you, yes lets hope so.
Thankyou for sharing very informative
Thanks for your comment.
Wow. Interesting.
Thanks, the information is only my opinion based on my own experiences. I`m sure other people will have other ideas.
great video looking forward to the next one
Thank you. The next one will be the first run of the season, about the end of March.
Lovely!!
Thank you very much.
Unfortunately I haven’t got room to run one of these, but an interesting video too watch.
Thanks. There`s always G Scale, that`s a lot smaller.
Please tell us a little bit about that beautiful windmill I see at 2:38. Many thanks.
I made it out of some spare pieces of wood plus a few new pieces. It`s to my own design but based roughly on a real one. I just thought it adds a bit more interest to the railway. Thanks for your kind comment.
@@nutmeg5032, thanks for your reply. You really inspire me.
I think that the problem with the plastic sleepers is not that they are hollow.- they are designed that way to allow the ballast to fill the voids and hold them well in place. I think that your issue is the pea shingle. Ballast, as on the big railway, should have sharp hard edges to enable it to lock together. Pea shingle stones just move against each other allowing the sleepers to move. Limestone chippings of a suitable size - I use 8 or 10mm - allows the track to move a little bit but for the most part holds it firmly in place. This ballast drains well, is cheap to buy in big bags and breaks up very easily if you decide to make changes.
Thank you for your observations. I do agree about the ballast having sharp pieces in, I actually use pea gravel, which I mistakenly called peas shingle in the video. But in my experience with mine and other railways, wooden sleepers are superior in any type of ballast.
@@nutmeg5032 I've used 14mm green granite for ballast. These angular stones bite the sleepers. My PNP plastic sleepers aren't yet lifting, but I'm now looking out for it. I've only laid the track down last year, so a little way to go. Nice video - -thanks for sharing.
@@RanmoreCommonRailway Thanks for your comment. I think yours will be fine, any ballast that grips the sleepers should be ok , it’s just that I prefer wooden sleepers as they are not so smooth as plastic, also if you run live steam they don’t melt from hot embers .
Interesting and well presented, thanks.
Thank you for your comment.
nicely explained for any beginners
mr f
Thank you, I hope someone might get some use from it.
I am impressed with what you have done in a relatively small space. I notice that most of the time your locos are running free, at first I thought radio control but having watched all, I think you just set the speed controller to a low setting. Can you carry a couple of passengers round those 8ft radius curves or is it only safe for unloaded vehicles. Very nice set up, thanks for showing us.
Thank you for your comments. I have a selection of controllers, some are fitted with a joystick safety type, others are just knobs that can be set to a certain speed and some can control the sound and horn on the larger engine. The small Ruston is fitted with remote control for power only. The big engine will easily pull myself and one other person round or several children providing they keep still.
Impressive
Hello .. wow it's really wonderful video, Thank you for sharing, I really want to building garden railway but where can i buy all this stuff from? much appreciate,
Thank you for your comments. The track and rolling stock can sometimes be found on ebay. Or there are other suppliers of new and used items, such as Maxitrak of Kent, England, or PNP Railways also in England. Hope this helps.
Great video, just wondering about your bigger Green loco, what’s the length of it as I’m working out curves for my own layout? Thanks
Thanks for your comments. Both green and blue locos are the same, overall length 1250 mm.
wheel centres on the bogies are 240mm. I have some very tight curves (2.4mm radius) but a long loco or wagon will go round provided it`s on bogies.
I'm considering starting a garden railway and I was looking at pnp, would it not be possible to pour a small amount if concrete into the sleeper to add weight to stop them lifting?
I wouldn’t bother, just use a rough type ballast, I use 10mm pea gravel and I’ve not had any issues. Alternatively you could use wooden sleepers although that requires more skill in setting the gauge. Basically you need the ballast to grip the sleepers. Hope this helps.
nice howto . bookmarked for future reference .:)
Thanks, but remember it’s only the way I do things, there are other methods.
Could I ask how the trains are powered? Aluminium is not an electrical conductor so assume the trains don't pick up power through the tracks.
There is a motor on each axle powered by 2x 12v car batteries, and controlled by electronics via a hand held speed controller.sound modules and horns are similarly powered and controlled. I hope that makes sense.
@@nutmeg5032 Yes it does. Thank you!
Now you see why some Australian railway tracks are distorted. Australia gets far higher temperatures than the UK ever does. When you now the lawn does your mower miss the tracks? Good layout though.
Thanks for your comments. I have a very small mower.
you shouldn't really use pea shingle because the stones are round. these don't lock together, and move around. a better material is the 15mm granite chippings as they do bind together, and that is why the sleepers eventually walk themselves out of the ballast as each time you go over it, the ballast will move and work their way under the sleepers lifting them up. if you changed your ballast you'd probably find the plastic sleepers will bed in much more solid
Thanks for your comments. It has been mentioned before, but most of what I use is actually pea gravel and to be fair I’ve never had any problems with track lifting ,but I know it does happen, and it seems to affect plastic sleepers more.
Great video, thanks for posting it! I've often wondered about doing a railway like yours, but being unsure of a method has put me off. Do you think you could give an estimate of what it cost you for the rails, sleepers, points and ballast please? many thanks, Pete.
Thanks for your comments Pete. As a rough estimate I would say about £32 per metre. That`s for aluminum rail, plastic sleepers and chairs, fishplates and gravel. But you could use timber sleepers with screw fixings which would be cheaper. Also the larger the layout, ecconomies of scale would work in your favour. ie, you could buy the gravel in bulk bags. But it`s not a cheap hobby. Hope this helps.By the way, that’s for plain , does not include points.
@@nutmeg5032 Thanks for your reply, that's really helpful. I like the method you used. I better get planning!
In my day we used to soak sleepers in old engine oil but it’s probably illegal now!
@@nutmeg5032 - At £32 per meter, that is slightly less than we are paying for 45mm brass LGB track in South Africa.
Hello from argentina
where did you buy all this?
Sorry for the delay in replying Horacio. A lot of it I made and the rest from different suppliers in the UK.
What did you use for the curves? Did you bend the rail or did u get it already curved
I bent the rails by hand .
good video
Thank you.
What’s crazy is that you add 2.5 more inches and some people have full fledge ride on steam locos with only 7.5 gage rail
Thanks for your comments.
do you have to pull up the track for winter?
No, I leave it down but if you use wooden sleepers make sure they are treated with preservative. It will also need a good clean after winter.
@@nutmeg5032 thanks
What do you use to make sure the tracks are 5inches apart?
@@AdamWebb-by4st I use a metal gauge I think I show it in the video.
@@nutmeg5032 just saw it sorry,thanks
Bridges sidings and passing loops next 😁
I have built an extension into my shed, but I think that will be the last.
wow
Do you not need Planning Permission for a railway even though it's on your own property ?
No Roy, you definitely do not.
@@nutmeg5032 Good Lord I was told you definitely needed Planning Permission in case a nosey neighbour complained ! I stand corrected.
Roy C Horton, you do actually need planning permission... From your Better Half.
But then again, it is easier to ask for forgiveness than to ask for permission 😂😂😂
Hi how are you just want to let you know that tomorrow I will do a live video on my RUclips channel
Just uploaded a video on my channel of my new control system 🚂
can i ride on it when it done????
Its all put away for winter.
nice video easy watching the fat controller manor park
Thanks very much.
5 inch? Is that G gauge?
No, G scale is a track gauge of 45mm.