Here's a pretty complete listing of what you get for your extra $50 when you go from the Standard (aka, "Metal") version to the Carbon Fiber version: - Aluminum chassis brace TO---> Carbon fiber chassis brace AND lower-arms' reinforcement inserts (the chassis/deck itself remains aluminum) - 45A ESC TO---> 60A ESC - 28mm dia. 3100kv-2852 motor TO---> 36mm dia. 2650kv-3650 motor - Mount for 28mm motors TO---> Mount for 36mm motors - 16T & 19T pinions TO---> 24T & 27T pinions - 4-ch Tx/Rx, 150m range TO---> 6-ch Tx/Rx, 350m range, w/GYRO & "One-Click Flipping" (Self-Righting) - Sintered metal alloy Spur gear TO---> Chrome Steel Spur gear (CNC) - Straight-cut sintered metal alloy Input & Diff gears TO---> Helical (Spiral-Cut) Chrome Steel Input & Diff gears (CNC) - Black/Green Polycarbonate (PC) body (was PVC) TO---> All Black Polycarbonate (PC) body
The transmitter that comes with it doesn't have expo for the throttle and brakes, and the ESC is not adjustable.. But if you happen to have the CT-8A transmitter, it DOES have exponential for the throttle and brakes. Dialing in some positive expo on the throttle is similar to punch control, and negative expo on the brakes makes it stop much smoother.
If you're not going to use the longer batteries and keep the ESC in the original location, I would cut away that "ridge" in the battery tray so that those batteries that you're using would fit perfectly down flat in the tray. That ridge is only really there to accommodate the installation of the brackets for the cross-straps used for the longer ~140mm batteries.
I know some will disagree greatly, but my experience is that any money spent on the electronics on this 'carbon' version could NOT be a bigger waste. It weights less than 5lbs RTR! A 3650 motor with 60A available is so much more than enough for this little thing!!! You WILL need a better battery though, the free one isn't that great and nowhere near 25C. The most it can deliver is ~40A and not for very long. If you get yourself a 30T pinion, it'll hit 50mph, a 33T or 35T may get you to an insane 60mph but something this light in a monster truck config is insanely unstable at that latter speed! I stuck with the 30T and I still have plenty of lower-end torque.
I like that you went out and did the upgrades without changing the dynamics of a wonderful truck.. and all I’ve heard everybody do is complain about batteries not fitting. In reality if you just look around there are all sorts of nice 3s batteries that fit. I learn of another one from you. Great review, breakdown,and upgrade of this bad ass truck!
A great battery to use in the Terminator is something like this high-density, 'shorty' LiHV one used mostly in crawlers, GENS Ace 60C, 4300mah (90x42x30). A good way to secure it without any modifications is to put it on its SIDE (it's 30mm wide), held down using the included brackets and additional straps as cross-straps. No need to relocate the ESC either since this battery is only ~90mm long. Putting a 20mm piece of foam or something in front of the battery would not only ensure stability but put as much weight towards the back of the RC as possible. However, if you don't ever plan on relocating the ESC to allow using ~140mm, or so, long batteries, the best option, as I did, is shaving/cutting off the bottom inside-left ridge of the battery tray, which is only there to allow the loops/brackets to be installed for the cross-straps anyway, so that now, ~42mm wide batteries can easily lay PERFECTLY flat in that battery tray, and can still use the original, single strap. I'm not a big fan of the higher center of gravity (CG) created when placing batteries on their sides. You can also use the included ~6mm wide foam along the inside left to stabilize the battery even further once that ridge is removed. I should also add that this particular battery is a high voltage battery (LiHV). You can charge it to a regular Lipo voltage of ~12.6V, OR if you have a charger that can also charge LiHV, it can be safely charged to ~13V to give it that little extra punch! Yes, it indeed goes to 11.... ;)
To be clear, you should NOT charge a regular Lipo battery to the same higher voltage of that which is "specified" for a LiHV battery, which is indeed 3.8V/cell nominal, and 4.35V/cell fully charged. (3S=11.4V, 13.05V, respectively). The numbers for a regular, everyday Lipo are only 3.7V/cell nominal, and 4.2V/cell fully charged. (3S=11.1V, 12.6V, respectively)!
@@marcospascual Hi, For total Control Onroad, You want everything as Stiff as possible, going Offroad, you need some Flex here and there. And Break or Bent will happen :) . ( Did Motocross when I was Young, did the Maintanance myself, and later became a Mechanical Engineer with too much Hobbies like RC-Anything :) )
Lubes/Oils from the factory: Shock Oil: Front & Rear = 40wt (500cst) ---> Diff Oil: Front & Rear = 20K wt, Center = 60K wt The only thing I would change at the top is the center diff to something from about 100K (low to mid traction) to maybe 150K max for mostly higher traction surfaces..... I ended-up using 125K myself.😀 Then again, I may try going down to 30wt in the shocks all-around or maybe just in the front, still contemplating..... I know this about the spring preloads. Very little if any at all in the front and about 3/8" to 1/2" in the rear, try it!
Just started in the hobby with my son he picked up a 1/14 that’s pretty quick and I picked up this Omni and I enjoy it a lot! It rips. Maybe it’s cause I’m a noob but it’s awesome!
Excelent video, thans a lot! Plese can you share the exact lenght for screws to be reaplaced? is it amazon M3 titanium screws ? is 10mm enough ? Thanks a lot!!!
They are m3x25 screws. I'd look for hardened steel instead of titanium. To be honest I'd leave them alone if they haven't broken yet, once you make them harder you start bending the shock tower. It's cheaper and easier to replace screws than it is the whole shock tower
Space and battery size were well known prior to units shipping. I ordered a HW 10BL 120 combo with mine but after a short drive on Tuesday I'm not sure I'll change the stock stuff. I did notice the brakes work really well. It's gonna get a proper bash today. I'm anticipating up be using those shock standoffs i ordered with it when the day is over. My biggest gripe so far is the body is really thin and almost had a hole in the tailgate after a quick drive on grass. Also it is a heavy gal. Everyone who's saw it has remarked on how surprised they are at its heft.
Rlaarlo is slowly putting more info out there now themselves. They just put out the info for motor sizing with their optional servo mount. It's got more power than it needs stock to be honest. After tuning my diffs it wants to flip on its lid. I saw people are having problems backflipping, 500k center diff fluid fixed that for me.
Can you do a video of the terminator carbon version, on a detailed walk through on the remote, and settings and calibration, I'm having issues with mine,, it likes to take off like a bat out of hell after a few minutes
What is the actual size of the stock battery? I was going to try and find a 3000mah the same size so I wouldn’t have to move the esc. Their website doesn’t show or even offer the stock battery
Resolving some of the issues with the 6-ch Transmitter(Tx) that comes with the 'Carbon' version. 1) If you see a padlock icon on your screen. (with sometimes also having a flashing screen as well as beeping) - Turn the Transmitter OFF. - Press and hold the Fwd/Rev Button (bottom RIGHT) and then LONG-press (until the screen appears) the Power ON Button at the same time. 2) If you inadvertently mixed channels 1&2 together (e.g. throttle also works while steering) or channels 5&6 together. - Toggle through the mixing options by Long-pressing (until it beeps) the Mixing Button (bottom LEFT) UNTIL you NO longer see either a ① and/or a ② symbol(s) next to the mixing icon on the bottom RIGHT of the screen.
Thanks for going into details for us! So ive been wondering, what length are those shock mounting screws? And the standoffs? Ive also been planning to order Ti bolts, they're probably better than chinese steel because the ti is an actual formulated alloy. Doesnt even have to be the best ti 😂
Titanium isn't any stronger that steel, just much lighter. The problem with those screws is that they are generic, low grade metal alloy. Any machined and hardened forged steel will be much stronger than anything made out of a powdered metal, steel or even titanium, mixed with bonding agents then fused together.
Pack of 20 titanium m3x25 screws from Amazon is $7. Something I didn't say in the video is the spacer they use for the standoffs are plastic and you can even swap those out with aluminum spacers or something if they become warped
@@OmniMan_Racing Replacing the spacers to something other than plastic is a great idea! However, since those titanium screws aren't machined either, they will bend and/or snap/shear much sooner with less force, guaranteed bro! You move to titanium for weight savings and corrosion resistance, NOT strength!
@@CSL33 a heavier steel screw is 100% a better idea for a basher. I know titanium would hold up better than the stock screws for sure, they're just garbage grade steel. I have a habit of going to titanium because 90% of my cars turn into speed running cars that's why it was my immediate recommendation. Gonna take it out for a speed test in a little bit
Can you check center drive shaft see if it wobbles or is bent pushing it on table front to back? My new from Amazon Omni t has bent drive shaft out of box and wheels that wobble like crazy or are out of shape inside from foam???
Not a problem I had with center shafts and I'm not on stock wheels for that to be an issue either. A lot of people seem to have a lot of different problems out the box but I was lucky to get a well built truck
Great video man thank you!! How do you feel about the dif, and gearing quality? I've heard of other Rlaarlo cars that have cheap metal, thoughts? Ty!!!!
The diff cups are getting chewed up. The gears themselves have held up well. I thought I had some clicking but it was just dirt, after I cleaned it up and put new grease the click vanished. The truck has little gremlins. You're going to see a lot more broken carbon fiber versions because they might be a little too powerful. Majority of complaints I see are also from people newer to the hobby or expected amazing quality on every part of a Chinese rc car. Even with the issues I've had I love the truck, Rlaarlo as a company tho.... They have a lot to work on still
@@CraigAHaskell if you look through my channel you can see it with its current setup. I switched to a 1/8 electronics combo, did the 17mm hex conversion, and went to an aggressive proline wheel and tire combo. Now it's as fast on 2s as it was stock on 3s
@@francostacy7675 my recommendation would be save a little more and get a Arrma big rock or team associated MT10. Easy to see a $250 rig and think youre getting a deal and then not realize how much you put into after the fact.
@@OmniMan_Racing thanks for the advice. One more question if you don’t mind. If I spend more money I’ve been thinking about the Arma vorteks instead….any thoughts? My issue is that it seems more expensive machines based on RUclips videos , break just as much or as often as the cheaper machines….any thoughts? Durability is important to me
Hi mate I've been looking though the book I couldn't find the servo mount your talking about. I've got a castle mamba pro x and that will take 4s easy. I can't use the gyro because the front wheels starts shaking crazy. Great video mate 👍 😅
A good place to start is.... 40% 'Sensitivity' aka 'Reaction Time'. (top number on the screen) 50% to 60% 'Amount of Reaction' or 'Gyro Strength'. (bottom number on the screen)
@@OmniMan_Racing The blocking of Links is done by individuals such as yourself in their Channel settings. I don't do Facebook! That was so a decade and a half ago....
@@CSL33 I just went through all the settings on RUclips and saw nothing about not allowing links 🤷🏿♂️ Your lose on not going to the Facebook groups, they are much more helpful than RUclips is. Outside of Facebook groups and posting videos here I don't do social media
@@OmniMan_Racing SEE?! If links were allowed I'd simply be able to point you to those instructions! 1-Customize Channel 2-Settings (at the bottom of page on the left) 3-Community: ---> all the way to the bottom, then uncheck 'Block Links'
GYRO complete and ACCURATE instructions for the 6-ch Tx/Rx that comes with the 'Carbon' version. Firstly, it's assumed that the Transmitter(Tx) and Receiver(Rx) are already bound to each other, and both powered ON, thus there's NO need to even open the Receiver(Rx) box at all. 1) Turn OFF the Transmitter, and keep the truck powered ON. With the Transmitter OFF, press and hold the SWA (ch3) button, and then long-press the power ON button at the same time. --->Transmitter(Tx) will now be in the Gyroscope setting mode. Mixing Button (bottom LEFT on Tx): This turns the Gyro On/Off. --->When the upper right corner of the screen shows a 'signal' symbol (e.g. cell tower symbol), the Gyroscope in ON, otherwise it's OFF. ALSO: The Forward/Reverse Button (bottom RIGHT on Tx): This alters the directional effect of the Gyroscope. ---> The ◥ symbol on the screen means 'normal' operation. I.E., if vehicle fishtails to the Right, gyro steers to the Right. (Make SURE this is selected!) ---> The ◣ symbol on the screen means 'reverse' operation. (NEVER select that!) IMPORTANT: This following is correct and confirmed, but often cited incorrectly! Left Steering Dual-rate Knob (below the ch5 button): Adjusts the Gyroscope's 'Sensitivity' aka 'Reaction Time'. (top number on the screen) Right Throttle Dual-rate Knob (below the ch6 button): Adjusts the Gyroscope's 'Intervening Travel Ratio' aka 'Amount of Reaction'. (bottom number on the screen) Once finished adjusting the settings, Long-press the SWA (ch3) button and it will be saved. (2 beeps) DONE! (so there's NO need to power off, and then back on, anything!) LASTLY, very IMPORTANT x2: Return the Steering (endpoints s/b at least ~75%) and Throttle (@100% of course) dual-rate Knobs to your chosen, normal operating positions.
So the Gyro is generally used mostly when on the really loose, low traction surfaces. A good place to start is.... 30% to 40% 'Sensitivity' aka 'Reaction Time'. (top number on the screen) 40% to 60% 'Amount of Reaction' or 'Gyro Strength'. (bottom number on the screen)
OMG...Your killing me with the video. Your so tech advanced with the RC but you can't do better with the video? Please... the info is great but so hard to watch.. maybe a basic gopro with image stabilization as an idea?
Sorry, one more. If you’re going to jump your truck and bash it you should expect to have to upgrade a couple things… stand offs are cheap… and if you drive it like a human, nothing will break on this well engineered vehicle bro… in my opinion
Can you give me measurements of these screws on shocks stands please? I'm waiting for my terminator from FEB20, and its still nowhere to be found. I have tracking number since 1.4, but its still showing Tracking not yet available :/. It will help me a lot. At least i can order upgraded screws. I already got hobbywing 10BL120 as and esc upgrade, and i will run that MF on 4s :D
@@OmniMan_Racing I ordered 6 TC4 grade screws fo 15 euros, so i will see if they will hold lol. I guess that the high grade steel screws are pricey too. And i really dont know what kind of steel to look for :D Edit: i canceled the order for titanium screws and ordered 25pcs 12.9 grade steel screws for 2.5€ 🤣
RUclips doesn't let me add links for whatever reason. Amazon search '3s shorty lipo' and you should find some. If you want to stay stock location lipo you need to make sure the lipo is no longer than 100mm
That's weird I got a reply from their live chat customer service. But that does suck! Did you buy direct? I guess that's another reason why I do like going through Amazon just because if something does go wrong then I know I'll get my refund
Regarding the Terminator, there is a battery compartment upgrade kit in the accessory package! There are currently players who can put down 5000-7000 mAh batteries!
@@EdisonRCWorkshop The dimensions he listed were those after having installed the 'kit' and relocated the ESC. I'll be using a high-density lipo used mostly in crawlers, GENS Ace 60C, 4300mah (90x42x30), hence no need nor plan to move the ESC.
@@santommaso6740 Yes, a good way to secure it without any modifications is to put it on its SIDE (it's 30mm wide), held down using the included brackets and additional straps as cross-straps. No need to relocate the ESC either since this battery is only ~90mm long. Putting a 20mm piece of foam or something in front of the battery would not only ensure stability but put as much weight towards the back of the RC as possible. However, if you don't ever plan on relocating the ESC to allow using ~140mm, or so, long batteries, the best option, as I did, is shaving/cutting off the bottom inside-left ridge of the battery tray, which is only there to allow the loops/brackets to be installed for the cross-straps anyway, so that now, ~42mm wide batteries can lay PERFECTLY flat in that battery tray, and can still use the original, single strap. Not a big fan of the higher CG created when placing batteries on their sides. You can also use the included 6mm wide foam along the inside left to stabilize the battery even further once that ridge is removed. I should also add that this particular battery is a high voltage battery (LiHV). You can charge it to a regular Lipo voltage of ~12.6V, OR if you have a charger that can also charge LiHV, it can be safely charged to ~13V to give it that little extra punch! Yes, it indeed goes to 11.... ;)
Buogiorno friend I immediately subscribed to myself I wanted to wonder I have the carbon fiber version H put the biggest pigno that was in the box and it is 60kmh is normal?. hello thanks in advance. Greetings from Italy
Hello friend from Rome Italy, your videos have everything you need I have immediately subscribed to your channel are 616 I have only 11 if you can change the favor I would be grateful to you. Hello to the next time because I will definitely have questions about Omni Terminator. Hi buddy
The transmitter that comes with it doesn't have expo for the throttle and brakes, and the ESC is not adjustable.. But if you happen to have the CT-8A transmitter, it DOES have exponential for the throttle and brakes. Dialing in some positive expo on the throttle is similar to punch control, and negative expo on the brakes makes it stop much smoother.
You’re doing the lords work and I thank you!
Here's a pretty complete listing of what you get for your extra $50 when you go from the Standard (aka, "Metal") version to the Carbon Fiber version:
- Aluminum chassis brace TO---> Carbon fiber chassis brace AND lower-arms' reinforcement inserts (the chassis/deck itself remains aluminum)
- 45A ESC TO---> 60A ESC
- 28mm dia. 3100kv-2852 motor TO---> 36mm dia. 2650kv-3650 motor
- Mount for 28mm motors TO---> Mount for 36mm motors
- 16T & 19T pinions TO---> 24T & 27T pinions
- 4-ch Tx/Rx, 150m range TO---> 6-ch Tx/Rx, 350m range, w/GYRO & "One-Click Flipping" (Self-Righting)
- Sintered metal alloy Spur gear TO---> Chrome Steel Spur gear (CNC)
- Straight-cut sintered metal alloy Input & Diff gears TO---> Helical (Spiral-Cut) Chrome Steel Input & Diff gears (CNC)
- Black/Green Polycarbonate (PC) body (was PVC) TO---> All Black Polycarbonate (PC) body
The transmitter that comes with it doesn't have expo for the throttle and brakes, and the ESC is not adjustable..
But if you happen to have the CT-8A transmitter, it DOES have exponential for the throttle and brakes.
Dialing in some positive expo on the throttle is similar to punch control, and negative expo on the brakes makes it stop much smoother.
If you're not going to use the longer batteries and keep the ESC in the original location, I would cut away that "ridge" in the battery tray so that those batteries that you're using would fit perfectly down flat in the tray. That ridge is only really there to accommodate the installation of the brackets for the cross-straps used for the longer ~140mm batteries.
I know some will disagree greatly, but my experience is that any money spent on the electronics on this 'carbon' version could NOT be a bigger waste. It weights less than 5lbs RTR! A 3650 motor with 60A available is so much more than enough for this little thing!!! You WILL need a better battery though, the free one isn't that great and nowhere near 25C. The most it can deliver is ~40A and not for very long. If you get yourself a 30T pinion, it'll hit 50mph, a 33T or 35T may get you to an insane 60mph but something this light in a monster truck config is insanely unstable at that latter speed! I stuck with the 30T and I still have plenty of lower-end torque.
I like that you went out and did the upgrades without changing the dynamics of a wonderful truck.. and all I’ve heard everybody do is complain about batteries not fitting. In reality if you just look around there are all sorts of nice 3s batteries that fit. I learn of another one from you. Great review, breakdown,and upgrade of this bad ass truck!
Thank you my friend. The only guy on the Internet with the actual info i was after.
Right yea everyone else is a yapper
A great battery to use in the Terminator is something like this high-density, 'shorty' LiHV one used mostly in crawlers, GENS Ace 60C, 4300mah (90x42x30).
A good way to secure it without any modifications is to put it on its SIDE (it's 30mm wide), held down using the included brackets and additional straps as cross-straps. No need to relocate the ESC either since this battery is only ~90mm long. Putting a 20mm piece of foam or something in front of the battery would not only ensure stability but put as much weight towards the back of the RC as possible.
However, if you don't ever plan on relocating the ESC to allow using ~140mm, or so, long batteries, the best option, as I did, is shaving/cutting off the bottom inside-left ridge of the battery tray, which is only there to allow the loops/brackets to be installed for the cross-straps anyway, so that now, ~42mm wide batteries can easily lay PERFECTLY flat in that battery tray, and can still use the original, single strap. I'm not a big fan of the higher center of gravity (CG) created when placing batteries on their sides. You can also use the included ~6mm wide foam along the inside left to stabilize the battery even further once that ridge is removed.
I should also add that this particular battery is a high voltage battery (LiHV). You can charge it to a regular Lipo voltage of ~12.6V, OR if you have a charger that can also charge LiHV, it can be safely charged to ~13V to give it that little extra punch! Yes, it indeed goes to 11.... ;)
To be clear, you should NOT charge a regular Lipo battery to the same higher voltage of that which is "specified" for a LiHV battery, which is indeed 3.8V/cell nominal, and 4.35V/cell fully charged. (3S=11.4V, 13.05V, respectively). The numbers for a regular, everyday Lipo are only 3.7V/cell nominal, and 4.2V/cell fully charged. (3S=11.1V, 12.6V, respectively)!
If You replace The Shock Screws for stiffer ones, the Bracket could bent more easily. Maybe better to keep the low cost Screw as a sacrificial Part?
HI, thats good thing to mention. What are you doing so far? just bought one and wondering if should change the m3 screws for titanium ones. Thanks!!
@@marcospascual Hi, For total Control Onroad, You want everything as Stiff as possible, going Offroad, you need some Flex here and there. And Break or Bent will happen :) . ( Did Motocross when I was Young, did the Maintanance myself, and later became a Mechanical Engineer with too much Hobbies like RC-Anything :) )
Lubes/Oils from the factory: Shock Oil: Front & Rear = 40wt (500cst) ---> Diff Oil: Front & Rear = 20K wt, Center = 60K wt
The only thing I would change at the top is the center diff to something from about 100K (low to mid traction) to maybe 150K max for mostly higher traction surfaces.....
I ended-up using 125K myself.😀
Then again, I may try going down to 30wt in the shocks all-around or maybe just in the front, still contemplating.....
I know this about the spring preloads. Very little if any at all in the front and about 3/8" to 1/2" in the rear, try it!
Just started in the hobby with my son he picked up a 1/14 that’s pretty quick and I picked up this Omni and I enjoy it a lot! It rips. Maybe it’s cause I’m a noob but it’s awesome!
Fun truck. I honestly recommend leaving it stock and just enjoying it as is.
@@OmniMan_Racing I plan to. I am not anywhere near versed in the hobby. I do want to get deeper into though!
@@Ruralronin learn how to work on what you got and build something off to the side while you're learning is my suggestion even if it's a kit car.
@@OmniMan_Racing thanks for the advice! I will do that.
Got mine today!
Me too!
How long did it take after ordering it ? Still waiting on mine ! They sent the charger I ordered with it today but not the truck ! Pissed off
@@SherryVarner-tp3kk I placed my order feb 24 got it apr 4
@SherryVarner-tp3kk same for me, been a couple weeks at least, and I just got my charger today
@@SherryVarner-tp3kk I ordered feb 24th
Excelent video, thans a lot! Plese can you share the exact lenght for screws to be reaplaced? is it amazon M3 titanium screws ? is 10mm enough ? Thanks a lot!!!
They are m3x25 screws. I'd look for hardened steel instead of titanium. To be honest I'd leave them alone if they haven't broken yet, once you make them harder you start bending the shock tower. It's cheaper and easier to replace screws than it is the whole shock tower
Space and battery size were well known prior to units shipping. I ordered a HW 10BL 120 combo with mine but after a short drive on Tuesday I'm not sure I'll change the stock stuff. I did notice the brakes work really well. It's gonna get a proper bash today. I'm anticipating up be using those shock standoffs i ordered with it when the day is over. My biggest gripe so far is the body is really thin and almost had a hole in the tailgate after a quick drive on grass. Also it is a heavy gal. Everyone who's saw it has remarked on how surprised they are at its heft.
Rlaarlo is slowly putting more info out there now themselves. They just put out the info for motor sizing with their optional servo mount. It's got more power than it needs stock to be honest. After tuning my diffs it wants to flip on its lid. I saw people are having problems backflipping, 500k center diff fluid fixed that for me.
Can you do a video of the terminator carbon version, on a detailed walk through on the remote, and settings and calibration, I'm having issues with mine,, it likes to take off like a bat out of hell after a few minutes
@@michaelmurphy9304 nope. I don't use the stock transmitter. I swapped to a Radiolink RC6GS
What is the actual size of the stock battery? I was going to try and find a 3000mah the same size so I wouldn’t have to move the esc. Their website doesn’t show or even offer the stock battery
It's 1/12 Scale
Rlaarlo should know this
Heck yeah bro, I found some Zeee batteries 4500 3s that fit but I’m ordering some of those beasts you have!!
Resolving some of the issues with the 6-ch Transmitter(Tx) that comes with the 'Carbon' version.
1) If you see a padlock icon on your screen. (with sometimes also having a flashing screen as well as beeping)
- Turn the Transmitter OFF.
- Press and hold the Fwd/Rev Button (bottom RIGHT) and then LONG-press (until the screen appears) the Power ON Button at the same time.
2) If you inadvertently mixed channels 1&2 together (e.g. throttle also works while steering) or channels 5&6 together.
- Toggle through the mixing options by Long-pressing (until it beeps) the Mixing Button (bottom LEFT) UNTIL you NO longer see either a ① and/or a ② symbol(s) next to the mixing icon on the bottom RIGHT of the screen.
Thanks for going into details for us!
So ive been wondering, what length are those shock mounting screws? And the standoffs? Ive also been planning to order Ti bolts, they're probably better than chinese steel because the ti is an actual formulated alloy. Doesnt even have to be the best ti 😂
M3x25
Titanium isn't any stronger that steel, just much lighter.
The problem with those screws is that they are generic, low grade metal alloy. Any machined and hardened forged steel will be much stronger than anything made out of a powdered metal, steel or even titanium, mixed with bonding agents then fused together.
Pack of 20 titanium m3x25 screws from Amazon is $7. Something I didn't say in the video is the spacer they use for the standoffs are plastic and you can even swap those out with aluminum spacers or something if they become warped
@@OmniMan_Racing Replacing the spacers to something other than plastic is a great idea!
However, since those titanium screws aren't machined either, they will bend and/or snap/shear much sooner with less force, guaranteed bro!
You move to titanium for weight savings and corrosion resistance, NOT strength!
@@CSL33 a heavier steel screw is 100% a better idea for a basher. I know titanium would hold up better than the stock screws for sure, they're just garbage grade steel. I have a habit of going to titanium because 90% of my cars turn into speed running cars that's why it was my immediate recommendation. Gonna take it out for a speed test in a little bit
They have a straight locked/direct central gear. I guess if you want pure power over using real thick diff oil.
Whats the size of the pinion? I mean soecs not teeth count. The rlaarlo indicates M1 5mm, thats wrong...
Stock they are 48p gears with a 3.175 or 1/8" bore
Can you check center drive shaft see if it wobbles or is bent pushing it on table front to back? My new from Amazon Omni t has bent drive shaft out of box and wheels that wobble like crazy or are out of shape inside from foam???
Not a problem I had with center shafts and I'm not on stock wheels for that to be an issue either. A lot of people seem to have a lot of different problems out the box but I was lucky to get a well built truck
My current issue is the drivetrain can't handle the power of the electronics I have in it even on 2s
Great video man thank you!! How do you feel about the dif, and gearing quality? I've heard of other Rlaarlo cars that have cheap metal, thoughts? Ty!!!!
The diff cups are getting chewed up. The gears themselves have held up well. I thought I had some clicking but it was just dirt, after I cleaned it up and put new grease the click vanished. The truck has little gremlins. You're going to see a lot more broken carbon fiber versions because they might be a little too powerful. Majority of complaints I see are also from people newer to the hobby or expected amazing quality on every part of a Chinese rc car. Even with the issues I've had I love the truck, Rlaarlo as a company tho.... They have a lot to work on still
That makes sense. This will be my first car, I ordered the carbon fiber, hope I didn't make a mistake. Time will tell, have a good one!!
@@justincremer4638hey did u get it i bought one yesterday
The best would be the 6200 2s? Price 40 euros
Are you able to fit a full size Servo with the proper mount?
@@CraigAHaskell yes but with my current electronics setup my motor is too long to fit a full size servo. Stock servo is more than strong enough
@@OmniMan_Racing Thanks man. Good info
@@CraigAHaskell if you look through my channel you can see it with its current setup. I switched to a 1/8 electronics combo, did the 17mm hex conversion, and went to an aggressive proline wheel and tire combo. Now it's as fast on 2s as it was stock on 3s
So at this price point, what other RC would you recommend?
@@francostacy7675 my recommendation would be save a little more and get a Arrma big rock or team associated MT10. Easy to see a $250 rig and think youre getting a deal and then not realize how much you put into after the fact.
@@OmniMan_Racing thanks for the advice. One more question if you don’t mind. If I spend more money I’ve been thinking about the Arma vorteks instead….any thoughts?
My issue is that it seems more expensive machines based on RUclips videos , break just as much or as often as the cheaper machines….any thoughts?
Durability is important to me
@@francostacy7675 Vorteks is my favorite of the 3s Arrma line. I'd go with something you can find parts for very easily
Hi mate I've been looking though the book I couldn't find the servo mount your talking about. I've got a castle mamba pro x and that will take 4s easy. I can't use the gyro because the front wheels starts shaking crazy. Great video mate 👍 😅
Part number is R11136. If you look at the paper that came with it that shows the optional parts for the truck you should see it. $11.99 usd
Turn down the sensitivity on the gyro will fix that.
@rsjerald thanks mate I did try that but maybe I didn't do it right 😉 👍🙏
Your gyro is mis-adjusted. It works flawlessly otherwise...
A good place to start is....
40% 'Sensitivity' aka 'Reaction Time'. (top number on the screen)
50% to 60% 'Amount of Reaction' or 'Gyro Strength'. (bottom number on the screen)
Too bad all you guys block the use of Links in these comments. Makes it tough to really help each other out................🧐
Thats just how the RUclips comment section works. To be the most helpful get into the Official Rlaarlo group on Facebook and post in there
@@OmniMan_Racing The blocking of Links is done by individuals such as yourself in their Channel settings.
I don't do Facebook! That was so a decade and a half ago....
@@CSL33 I just went through all the settings on RUclips and saw nothing about not allowing links 🤷🏿♂️ Your lose on not going to the Facebook groups, they are much more helpful than RUclips is. Outside of Facebook groups and posting videos here I don't do social media
@@CSL33 making your own videos and putting links in the description is also an option
@@OmniMan_Racing SEE?! If links were allowed I'd simply be able to point you to those instructions!
1-Customize Channel
2-Settings (at the bottom of page on the left)
3-Community: ---> all the way to the bottom, then uncheck 'Block Links'
Gens Ace 4300 mAh 50C will fit also stock mounting.
How long did it take you to receive the truck?
I ordered it February 18th I got it April 2nd
My ESC just glitches throttle and runs away😢
GYRO complete and ACCURATE instructions for the 6-ch Tx/Rx that comes with the 'Carbon' version.
Firstly, it's assumed that the Transmitter(Tx) and Receiver(Rx) are already bound to each other, and both powered ON, thus there's NO need to even open the Receiver(Rx) box at all.
1) Turn OFF the Transmitter, and keep the truck powered ON.
With the Transmitter OFF, press and hold the SWA (ch3) button, and then long-press the power ON button at the same time.
--->Transmitter(Tx) will now be in the Gyroscope setting mode.
Mixing Button (bottom LEFT on Tx): This turns the Gyro On/Off.
--->When the upper right corner of the screen shows a 'signal' symbol (e.g. cell tower symbol), the Gyroscope in ON, otherwise it's OFF.
ALSO:
The Forward/Reverse Button (bottom RIGHT on Tx): This alters the directional effect of the Gyroscope.
---> The ◥ symbol on the screen means 'normal' operation. I.E., if vehicle fishtails to the Right, gyro steers to the Right. (Make SURE this is selected!)
---> The ◣ symbol on the screen means 'reverse' operation. (NEVER select that!)
IMPORTANT: This following is correct and confirmed, but often cited incorrectly!
Left Steering Dual-rate Knob (below the ch5 button): Adjusts the Gyroscope's 'Sensitivity' aka 'Reaction Time'. (top number on the screen)
Right Throttle Dual-rate Knob (below the ch6 button): Adjusts the Gyroscope's 'Intervening Travel Ratio' aka 'Amount of Reaction'. (bottom number on the screen)
Once finished adjusting the settings,
Long-press the SWA (ch3) button and it will be saved. (2 beeps)
DONE! (so there's NO need to power off, and then back on, anything!)
LASTLY, very IMPORTANT x2:
Return the Steering (endpoints s/b at least ~75%) and Throttle (@100% of course) dual-rate Knobs to your chosen, normal operating positions.
So the Gyro is generally used mostly when on the really loose, low traction surfaces. A good place to start is....
30% to 40% 'Sensitivity' aka 'Reaction Time'. (top number on the screen)
40% to 60% 'Amount of Reaction' or 'Gyro Strength'. (bottom number on the screen)
OMG...Your killing me with the video. Your so tech advanced with the RC but you can't do better with the video? Please... the info is great but so hard to watch.. maybe a basic gopro with image stabilization as an idea?
You talk soooo slow I had to watch at 2x speed and you are just barley normal speed then DANG DUDE!!!!
Sorry, one more. If you’re going to jump your truck and bash it you should expect to have to upgrade a couple things… stand offs are cheap… and if you drive it like a human, nothing will break on this well engineered vehicle bro… in my opinion
Can you give me measurements of these screws on shocks stands please? I'm waiting for my terminator from FEB20, and its still nowhere to be found. I have tracking number since 1.4, but its still showing Tracking not yet available :/. It will help me a lot. At least i can order upgraded screws. I already got hobbywing 10BL120 as and esc upgrade, and i will run that MF on 4s :D
M3X25
@@OmniMan_Racing Thanks a lot!
@@YesIgen probably try to find a good high grade steel screw. It should hold up better to impacts than the ti
@@OmniMan_Racing I ordered 6 TC4 grade screws fo 15 euros, so i will see if they will hold lol. I guess that the high grade steel screws are pricey too. And i really dont know what kind of steel to look for :D
Edit: i canceled the order for titanium screws and ordered 25pcs 12.9 grade steel screws for 2.5€ 🤣
You can link to the battery model that is?
RUclips doesn't let me add links for whatever reason. Amazon search '3s shorty lipo' and you should find some. If you want to stay stock location lipo you need to make sure the lipo is no longer than 100mm
@@OmniMan_Racing I just don't want to move the esc from where it's placed
My car IS rlaarlo omni terminator
The parallet mark of 4400 3s would work for me?
And seeing that there is a model of the same brand of 6200 3s mah it would also work for me?
This company is a joke, they wouldn't let me cancel my order and won't reply to my emails for a refund return. Ended up going through my credit card.
That's weird I got a reply from their live chat customer service. But that does suck! Did you buy direct? I guess that's another reason why I do like going through Amazon just because if something does go wrong then I know I'll get my refund
Having hard time finding a large hard case battery that fits (140mm,30mm,45 mm)
Regarding the Terminator, there is a battery compartment upgrade kit in the accessory package! There are currently players who can put down 5000-7000 mAh batteries!
@@EdisonRCWorkshop The dimensions he listed were those after having installed the 'kit' and relocated the ESC.
I'll be using a high-density lipo used mostly in crawlers, GENS Ace 60C, 4300mah (90x42x30), hence no need nor plan to move the ESC.
@@CSL33 Do the battery you said fit without any modifications to the car?
@@santommaso6740
Yes, a good way to secure it without any modifications is to put it on its SIDE (it's 30mm wide), held down using the included brackets and additional straps as cross-straps. No need to relocate the ESC either since this battery is only ~90mm long. Putting a 20mm piece of foam or something in front of the battery would not only ensure stability but put as much weight towards the back of the RC as possible.
However, if you don't ever plan on relocating the ESC to allow using ~140mm, or so, long batteries, the best option, as I did, is shaving/cutting off the bottom inside-left ridge of the battery tray, which is only there to allow the loops/brackets to be installed for the cross-straps anyway, so that now, ~42mm wide batteries can lay PERFECTLY flat in that battery tray, and can still use the original, single strap. Not a big fan of the higher CG created when placing batteries on their sides. You can also use the included 6mm wide foam along the inside left to stabilize the battery even further once that ridge is removed.
I should also add that this particular battery is a high voltage battery (LiHV). You can charge it to a regular Lipo voltage of ~12.6V, OR if you have a charger that can also charge LiHV, it can be safely charged to ~13V to give it that little extra punch! Yes, it indeed goes to 11.... ;)
Thanks a lot for your great support 😊👍
😻 *promosm*
Buogiorno friend I immediately subscribed to myself I wanted to wonder I have the carbon fiber version H put the biggest pigno that was in the box and it is 60kmh is normal?. hello thanks in advance.
Greetings from Italy
Hello friend from Rome Italy, your videos have everything you need I have immediately subscribed to your channel are 616 I have only 11 if you can change the favor I would be grateful to you. Hello to the next time because I will definitely have questions about Omni Terminator. Hi buddy
The transmitter that comes with it doesn't have expo for the throttle and brakes, and the ESC is not adjustable..
But if you happen to have the CT-8A transmitter, it DOES have exponential for the throttle and brakes.
Dialing in some positive expo on the throttle is similar to punch control, and negative expo on the brakes makes it stop much smoother.