How to Get the Best Finish with Waterlox Original
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- Looking for a finish that’s easy to apply and gives perfectly smooth, waterproof protection? Waterlox Original is a modified tung oil finish that has endured the test of time. Suitable for bar tops, tables, floors and any project you’re looking for a high-quality and truly waterproof finish. Waterlox also has the added benefit of elastic properties and will bend when dented versus crazing.
Here we provide a step-by-step guide on how to use this finish with a modified buff-in technique, eliminating brush strokes and problems caused by excess application. Follow us as we take this cedar sofa table from raw wood to a sleek, waterproof top to last for generations.
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0:00 Intro
1:11 Applying First Sealer Coat
5:59 Second Sealer Coat
9:04 Applying Satin Coat
15:55 Wrapping Up The Project
#WaterloxOriginal #BestFinish 
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I have a refinishing shop and use Waterlox everyday. Tip for applying.. use a sock over your glove. Keep your hand flat. Wipes quickly. Then roll up the sock and put in a sealed can or ziplock. Tx for the video.
Can you re-use the sock for the next coat?
Timely video - Thanks. Just getting ready on my Greene and Greene, year-long COVID project desk and have been testing finishes. The Waterlox basic sealer and Satin finish is also my choice
Thank you for this very helpful video! I'm going to give it a try with my own butcher block countertops at home. I was almost going to buy quartz countertops because I was worried about the durability but with this method and product I think the wood will be very durable and waterproof! Thank you again 👍
Glad we could help!
Great video ,Thanks
Thanks for the video!
Waterlox is pretty much the only finish I use anymore. Simple to apply and easy to repair damage later on.
Not sure if it has been mentioned, but make sure you are working in a well ventilated area. Waterlox fumes are quite strong and quite toxic. I have found that wearing an organic vapor face mask works quite well if you are working indoors.
Instructions on the can recommend applying with lambs wool or with a natural bristle brush. BUT, I have found that brushing on the first coat results in bubbles forming within the finish. I had to completely sand the finish off a cherry project I was working on (twice) before I realized that the wipe on/wipe off method was the way to go with the first few coats.
Nice video and nice work. I am using same product for a Baltic birch butcher block for a work bench. Thanks for the video it was informative and answered some of my questions.
Great! Glad we could help. 👍
I am following your tutorial on my countertops and so far it has been working great. I just put the third coat on and I found after 20 minutes that the finish was very sticky and I could not wipe it off. Any suggestions for me? Should I move on to the foam brush final coat? Thank you very much for any tips you can offer
Super helpful video! Is there an easy way to tell how many coats of the satin finish your wood needs? I did one and it looks great but not sure if I should do a second… I’m using it on birch butcherblock
Awesome vid. Thanks alot. 👍
You bet!
Thank you for your video! I have a 60" round rustic pine kitchen table that had been stained and needed to be protected from water. I used a natural bristle brush to apply each coat and ragged it off after about 15 minutes, letting it dry 24 hours between coats. It looked great, however, I really wanted a satin or matte finish, so I used the Waterlox Original Satin finish in the can (same as your video). I must not have stirred it well enough because it unfortunately dried very shiny. I was very disappointed. I called Waterlox and they suggested that I sand the table top to remove some of the last coat, add another sealer finish coat, then use their urethane matte finish product to get the matte finish I was looking for. I sanded it, then applied the one coat of sealer by brushing it on and letting it dry without wiping it off. It looks horrible at this stage, with very shiny and mottled areas mixed. I am very confused about what to do next because I don't want to make it worse. Each layer is adding product and I don't want it to look like a plastic table. I loved my original table because it was rustic and not shiny and now it is far from what I started with, color wise (added amber color...was grey/brown) and the sheen is to glossy. I would love your advice about what I should do. Thank you so much!!
Beautiful work!!!
I am following your process right now for my alder butcher block countertops and it is going very well! Question: does the finish eat up the foam brush and cause pieces of foam to get on your wood? I didn't see that happen in the video, but the man at the woodworking store said he was skeptical about using a foam brush with Waterlox, but I know you did it, so please let me know if you have any advice. Thanks!!
I wish I would have watched this before starting our butcher blocks. We were told to do one side at a time. Now, the top has some sealer that has bled under from the first coat from the bottom. We proceeded with putting a layer of sealer on the top thinking it would even out and it didn’t. Anyway to fix this? Do we keep adding layers to the top or sand it back down and start over?
Really helpful video. What was the grit level that you sanded down to at the beginning?
I have seen other videos on water locks that said use it very liberally for the first coat I didn't see anything about wiping it off can you send me some more ideas I'm doing a butcher block Birch countertop it seems to be very rough not smooth like you explained I was also told that I did not need the satin finish I was wondering your opinion on that thanks
Thanks for sharing. It looks amazing. Does that oil has some type of stain to it? Cause it looks dark. I like it tho. Thx
When do you seal the bottom of the piece? and how many coats should you do?
Thanks for the video, although I wished I watched it first before staring my project. I'm refinishing a butcher block kitchen countertop with Waterlox VOC Compliant Sealer/Finish. I sanded down the surface with varying grit sandpaper then blew off then wiped with tack cloth the surface. First coat absorbed quickly with little sheen visible. After second coat dried I feel a roughness to the surface. I did not wipe with cloth after applying either the first or second coat. Just wondering if I should sand with very fine grit now before applying third coat or will surface smooth out with additional coats?
ooops, paused video and asked question before finishing. I see your suggestion to use very fine grit paper to smooth out any bumps.
Do you need to sand in between each coat? Thank you
What if cannot get it to the shiny stage and it ends up looking dry
Would this stuff be safe for a chefs knife handle once it’s cured?
Thanks for the great video. I'm finishing a butcher block countertop piece for a desk and just put the first coat on the top layer. Sounds like you'd recommend flipping it and applying a couple coats to the bottom, then doing all my finish work (additional coats of sealer then satin finish) on the top, is that right?
Thank you glad we could help, yes I would recommend doing 1 to 2 sealer coats on the bottom and top, and then the rest of the sealer coats on the top and then your satin coat.
@@treetoshop Awesome. Thank you!
Thanks for asking the question that I was about to ask, I am going to be doing the same thing as you but for a back counter that won't be used for cutting or food.
Thank you for sharing! I have a question. I did the same process, but in the end, after I applied the satin finish it appeared tiny bubbles. Do you why these tiny bubbles appeared, and what can I do to prevent them?
Its normal for there to be bubbles when applying the finish. They should go away as it dries.
Some things that can cause the finish to dry with bubbles are if it has picked up dust, dried too fast like in the sun, or if it was applied too vigorously.
The finish is self leveling so if given enough time to dry, any brush strokes/bubbles should flatten out.
@@treetoshop Thank you! My finish was drying with the bubbles. So, to correct my wood piece I sanded with a 400 grit sandpaper and then I put one coat of finish. And now is perfect! No bubbles!
Such a wonderful video. Quick question :How would I use these products on a teak table? I'm a little confused on if I need both, one, or the other..
It depends on the sheen you desire. Always start with the original sealer. If you like the look continue with the final coats with that. If you want lower sheen finish the last few coats with satin. Higher sheen, use high gloss.
I guess Im quite randomly asking but do anybody know a good site to watch newly released movies online?
Great video I will refer to it as I start on my tabletop today! One question as I have never used Waterlox and am new to finishing - why didn't you do the whole piece in the satin sealer/finish? I'm confused as to why you used two different products. Thank you!
Answered from another post... It depends on the sheen you desire. Always start with the original sealer. If you like the look continue with the final coats with that. If you want lower sheen finish the last few coats with satin. Higher sheen, use high gloss.
What grit did you use for final sanding?
Hi! Im about to use waterlox on a butcher block countertop. Can I apply it on the top and bottom in one day, then wait 24 hours for the second coat? or one coat on one side per day?
Great question, yes you can totally apply it on both sides of the countertop at the same time, we recommend doing the bottom side first then flipping it over with stickers underneath, then do the top, that way you seal the bottom but since you won’t be seeing it it doesn’t have to look perfect, if it’s something you want both sides of the project to look perfect, then I would recommend doing one side at a time.
Is this more durable than Rubio?
So with a waterlox finish on a slab what would you use to repair splits voids and checks? Is epoxy reall yr the best way?
Great question, yes we use epoxy for all major splits and cracks before we apply the finish, we also use Starbond super glue with excelerator for small cracks and holes.
@@treetoshop Thanks for getting back to me! Ok awesome I have a myrtlewood slab that I'll stick with epoxy on for repairs. Another question since I'm a beginner would you recommend Waterlox for a cutting board?
Once cured it’s food safe for a cutting board, but cutting on it will decrease the waterproofing benefit. The TruTone formula might be a better option as it doesn’t create a layer on top of the wood that could flake off your board when cut. Or just use 2 buff in coats of the Original without building up a top coat.
@@treetoshop Awesome thanks again man I've read up on alot but it's so much better to learn from people that actually do it!
What in the lords name was going on there with the track saw and the router during the intro?
Is it possible to stain the wood before using Waterlox?
“Yes, oil based stains can be used under Waterlox. Thanks for your question!”
I wish I could have seen it after it's dried... or is the last 2 minutes what the final result will look like? Looks real shiny for satin. Edit: Just kidding - I see it now- Finished product @1655
I failed to mention before that I had applied 3 coats of the original sealer/finish before adding the 1 coat of satin finish.
So you only put 2 coats of original and 1 satin??
All depends on what the finish looks like, we usually do 2 to 3 coats of the original, and 1 to 2 coats of satin.
Do you need a top coat or can I use original as final coat also
You can use the original as the final coat too.
I used the original as a top coat on a live edge walnut slab for my bar, turned out beautifully, (after several coats, after BLO, grain filler, de-waxed shellac).
@@cornholy69 how many coats. I've put 3 on butcher block counters
@@fuzzyjem3 I did 4 coats, some very light sanding in between the last 3. I love the sheen personally. So far it’s help up great.
What model track saw is that?
It’s the TS-75
similar for exterior doors?
Yes, very similar for an exterior door, however we recommend finishing the door laying down flat, just like the piece of wood in the video.
What kind of cloth are you using?
Honestly it's just a chunk of old T-shirt, you really can use anything as long as it's lint free.
Everyone is different in their methods . I’ve been using Waterlox for many many years and only use Lambswool .
Craving a nice steak 🥩. I think it’s that fatty edge to that slab. 🤣🤣🤣
Never thought of it that way, but it does kind of look like that!😆
Possibly I am just old and stubborn but if I am not using oil and wax I am using Waterlox. Unlike many other finishes in California that have had to change formulas for our Communist Compliance, Waterlox stayed consistent and applies just like it did 20 years ago.
Bonus, when used on the teak on the boat, folks think you spent hours more time refinishing than you actually did, and outlasts anything else I have used.
Good to see a professional is still using it as a go-to.
I dont know about this guy. He says make sure you stir it. On the can it says not to
Depends on the gloss level. Gloss and semi-gloss require no stirring, the satin sheen needs to be stirred. This suspends the ingredients that reduce the gloss. Applying a satin sheen product without stirring will result in a high gloss finish.