No, that shaft will not just slide back on the rear shaft to remove. In Clymer manual it states the steps that I follow to get my shaft out. I tried to do it with out removing the engine bolt but it did not work on my 2006 model. But thanks for the comment.
Need to do this to my 05. I'm going out to soak it in PB Blaster, and I haven't even ordered the parts yet. 😂. I replaced all my bushings following your videos. Thanks for another one
Thank you for the video. Went smooth as butter! I found myself using an air hammer to remove the roll pin and to reinstall. Keep up with the videos, my sportsman's getting up in age also, gonna need them.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat yeah I actually traded my truck for this four wheeler I had the truck listed for 2500 and I looked up the value of the four-wheeler and it's like 5 grand I just need to do a couple things on it wheel bearings the front yolk and the rear right bearing and possibly seal in the rear end and that's it the engine's been rebuilt and cammed and stuff already and we put a big light bar on it rewired the winch controller and water sealed it and I fixed a bunch of other things on it that were just little
I guess Im asking randomly but does anybody know of a way to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Kameron Gatlin i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Very informative video. Thanks for taking the time to record. I'm in process of changing u- joints on 2004 Polaris ranger. Can't get the rolled pin out. Broke numerous drill bits, hard to get a good hit with a hammer. That's where I'm at. But eventually your info will be well needed!
You are going to have to keep soaking it with PB blaster. You are also going to have to get a good long set of punches. And use a big hammer. Maybe a two or 3lb hammer. Because you are going to need a get a goof hit on the pin. I beat and beat myself but it finally moved. Then I had it. Some heat will help also. Good luck a don’t give up. It will come out.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat I'm going to keep on it. It was previously used on a beach patrol, so salt corrosion not helping matters. I'll keep you posted. Great video btw, thanks!
I think the metal a drill bit is made from wouldn't withstand being struck with a hammer? A good punch tool as he shows in the video would do the trick
Well I am going to have to change the front axles,ujoints. I don’t know what else right now. I hope that’s it. Oh and brakes.but I all ready know how to do brakes they are about the same as a car.
Michael You Can Fix That hi how are you? I have a question? I’m having trouble getting the drive shaft out! How long did it take you to get it out? Any advice would be appreciated.thank you ahead of time.
THE BEST VID ON U TUBE FOR THESE DANG U JOINTS..PERIOD.. and I’ve been looking for weeks for my Kaw Mule, 😂, so double thumbs up 👍👍, and thank Sir. I was surprised that the vice worked better than ( I’m guessing, a stand up hydraulic press though) , but hey improvise is good and thank you so very much. New sub here for sure ! ! !
Just the video I needed.. I am having an issue getting the pin out of the shaft to remove the drive shaft. It's very rusted. Any suggestions? I beat the hell out of it with a punch. Thinking about buying an air hammer.
Jay Bourbon You are going to have to do to one of two things. You can try heating it up with a torch then Knocking it out or drilling the pin out. Just make sure you have a punch tool that long enough and strong enough to be able to get good hits.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat I have a very good drill bit set and it just wasn't able to drill it.. That pin is very hard. I'm going to try heating it up and getting a better punch set. Thank you again for your response and a great video!
Great video Michael.I have a 2004 6x6.Needs rear drive axle u joints replaced.Polaris says axles and u joints have been discontinued.Where can I get u joints for my old Ranger?
It must have been sitting up for a while? But as you probably know it’s just rusted together. I would WD40 or some PB Blaster the whole axle and maybe use a torch to put some heat to it and hit it with a hammer to try to get it to come apart. I hope that helps.
Clinton Wiggins-man I had to buy à REAR DIFFERENTIAL I TRY NUMBER OF PEOPLE ADVICE TRY REMOVE THOSE AXLE OUT TOOK TO SHOP NO ONE COULD HELP ME I WATCH MANY RUclips JOB COULD NOT REMOVE AXLE
We did all this and put the shaft back in with new U-joints. Next day the 4x4 is not working properly and the front drive/prop shaft that we just put the U-joints in is not turning properly on the transmission part. It is rattling/knocking and barely spinning. Does this mean the transmission part where there are teeth is messed up?
The teeth may also be but gone. Because the shaft should still turn without the roll pin in there. Maybe the pin was the only thing making it turn before you took it out? You may have to jack the ATV up with all 4 tires off the ground and see if the front tires turn.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat front tires barely turn in 4x4 only sometimes when the shaft catches. My model is a 2001 sportsman 500 ho there is only one pin in the front near the differential there isn’t a pin in the back. I’m guessing the teeth are worn off and I’m gonna have to order a new yolk or a whole new driveshaft (since a used driveshaft is the same price as a new yolk)
Make sure you have the Retaining clip off the inside of the yoke. I would get me a zip lock bag and fill with motor oil. Soak the yoke in that oil for a day. Then get me a socket that will fit in the inside of the yoke and beat it until it comes apart. It will come apart. I would try more heat. Heat all ways work. You may just need more. Good luck
@@michaelyoucanfixthat one wasn’t longer was it? On my Manual it shows that the back yoke is Longer where it goes into the transmission shaft but shorter on the differential side
@@michaelyoucanfixthat ok thanks for helping me clarify! I really appreciate you taking time to reply on the 5 year old video. Thanks for the dedication!
You never showed how you got the front yoke broke loose from the front diff. Only how to get the last bit done. I'm having trouble separating it after knocking the set pin out. What's the trick? I've tried pb blaster, heat, pry bars, etc.
Did you remove the two bolts holding the front diff to the frame? If you have and you got the pin out. It should be ready. On mine the pin was the problem. After the pin was out the yoke was lose. I just took my pry bar and forced it away from the diff. Is your diff moving back? If the yoke is not moving. It has to be rusted and need to be soaked. It will come off with enough force.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat I've tried prying with the front diff loose and bolted down, it doesn't matter because that sucker is stuck! I've been soaking it with pb blaster and still and no luck. It's rusted together I guess...
@@flop3567 If you have any flux that you use from copper pipe? You can put that flux all over the yoke and shaft. Then spray a good amount of PB Blaster on the shaft. Then put a little heat to the front diff shaft. That flux will suck that PB baster up in the shaft splines. Then let it sit for 30min or so. If not that you will need to make a oild bath for that yoke and shaft. Get you a plastic bag. Something like a zip lock bag and try to get it over the yoke where the shaft comes in the yoke. You may need to cut one side a little. Then pour oil in the bag untl the level is over the shaft and let it sit over night. It should come off with one of the method. Let me know.
First thing you need to keep spraying it with some kind of rust penetrating oil. Get a good set of long punches to be able to hammer and knock that pin out. It will come out it just rusted in there. Just get you a 1lb hammer and just beat the living tar out of it. It that doesn’t work bring out the torch and heat up around the pin as hot as you can get it and beat on it some more. If you ever get it to move just a little it will come out of there. But if that doesn’t work you are going to have to drill it out. Good luck 👍🏽
OK so I tried everything to get that dam pin out of the front drive shaft. Nothing worked.. I either have to cut the whole drive shaft in half by the pin on each side with a cutting wheel or I have to replace the u joint on the atv in that area.. Could it be done on the atv?
Jay Bourbon I think your best bet is to find a super heavy duty drill bit and try drilling it out again. Because you are going to do some unwanted damage trying to cut stuff off. Get a bit small enough to go down the center of the roll pin. The middle of that pin should be hollow and should drill some what easier that drill the whole pin. Maybe then you can beat it off. Soak it in PB blaster than heat it up much as possible. Beat and beat on it. You just need it to move and then you got her. I know you don’t want to hear that but that where you at. If you had a torch you could burn the pin out but don’t give up and do something crazy. It is just rusted in place.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat after smashing my hand 4 times I gave up.. Hah.. I'll give her another go.. Isy try to replace the u joint on the atv. I've been through worse.. 🍻
I have the long Polaris punch tool and found the correct hammer did the job. I started on mine with all my heavy mini sledges, but could not get it the budge. Most of the handles were over 16". I even put the pin in an air hammer with no movement. As soon as I used my short handle about 10", 2 lbs sledge, it came right out. The right leverage worked.
@@damirivancic4964 some set high and it make them a little top heavy. It feels like it’s easy to roll over. But Polaris has nice ride height and feels safe. That’s what I like them.
@@damirivancic4964 Yes, I know Polaris. I have had one for over 15 years. I have worked on them for years and to me they are the best, longest lasting ATV out there. Plus you can find the parts for them. I have one. My wife has one. Good ATV’s.
Shaft will slide back on rear spine for removal. Also install a hardened bolt and nut instead of roll pin. Much easier to remove next time
No, that shaft will not just slide back on the rear shaft to remove. In Clymer manual it states the steps that I follow to get my shaft out. I tried to do it with out removing the engine bolt but it did not work on my 2006 model. But thanks for the comment.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat i did this with my 2008 and 2015 sportsman and scrambler. Was very easy to do. Must ne different.
It will slide back, yours is just stuck at the engine output shaft. Takes a lot of heat and banging to free it up. @@michaelyoucanfixthat
It literally did on the install lol
You can pull that prop shaft off without unbolting the motor or front diff it should slide on the rear by the trans
GREAT VIDEO!!!
Explains everything in detail. Hats off to you good SIR!!!!!
Use the Vice and socket to push the bearings off and then when your putting the new caps on the vise also will come in hand buy pressing them in
Need to do this to my 05. I'm going out to soak it in PB Blaster, and I haven't even ordered the parts yet. 😂. I replaced all my bushings following your videos. Thanks for another one
That is a good Idea about soaking with PB. I'm glad my video is help people save money. That's is why I made it. Thanks a lot.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat wished I could triple thumbs up this comment 👍👍👍
EXCELLENT Video! Thank you for making this! Helped me a lot!
Thank you very much for the video. Exactly what I needed to swap the u joints in my Polars 400.
Appreciate your patience!
Thanks 🙏
Thank you for the video. Went smooth as butter! I found myself using an air hammer to remove the roll pin and to reinstall. Keep up with the videos, my sportsman's getting up in age also, gonna need them.
Man I’m glad you was able to get the U-joints in. A lot of people are having problems getting that roll pin out. Good job. Now what’s next?
Thank you so much for your video I definitely needed it because my front universal joint is about to fall apart
Yes, you have to do your maintenance or they will leave you on the side of the road....
@@michaelyoucanfixthat yeah I actually traded my truck for this four wheeler I had the truck listed for 2500 and I looked up the value of the four-wheeler and it's like 5 grand I just need to do a couple things on it wheel bearings the front yolk and the rear right bearing and possibly seal in the rear end and that's it the engine's been rebuilt and cammed and stuff already and we put a big light bar on it rewired the winch controller and water sealed it and I fixed a bunch of other things on it that were just little
Sweet video bro. Helps me out ALOT!! Keep up the great work my friend
Thanks man I hope you got her done.
I appreciate the video! Thank you for taking the time to make it! I have a similar project ahead of me, so this was very helpful!
I guess Im asking randomly but does anybody know of a way to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Billy Hamza instablaster =)
@Kameron Gatlin i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Kameron Gatlin It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you really help me out :D
@Billy Hamza no problem :)
Good info:) Less headaches for us:) Keep up the good work. Thanks alot.
You are welcome 🙏
Good job. 👍👍👍
Thanks
Just went through it. Was not giving any play. Heat it up and have someone support it evenly. One tap and came right off.
Man you are lucky!!!
Very informative video. Thanks for taking the time to record. I'm in process of changing u- joints on 2004 Polaris ranger. Can't get the rolled pin out. Broke numerous drill bits, hard to get a good hit with a hammer. That's where I'm at. But eventually your info will be well needed!
You are going to have to keep soaking it with PB blaster. You are also going to have to get a good long set of punches. And use a big hammer. Maybe a two or 3lb hammer. Because you are going to need a get a goof hit on the pin. I beat and beat myself but it finally moved. Then I had it. Some heat will help also. Good luck a don’t give up. It will come out.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat I'm going to keep on it. It was previously used on a beach patrol, so salt corrosion not helping matters. I'll keep you posted. Great video btw, thanks!
I think the metal a drill bit is made from wouldn't withstand being struck with a hammer? A good punch tool as he shows in the video would do the trick
Thank you sir.i done the bushings like you done in the other video but I had to replace the cv axles in the rear.
That one is much easier than the front. I did that one also but just do not video it, sorry.
Well I got to do the front also.i bought this four wheeler and it was in pretty bad shape.and you should of video that one also.lol.
@@rebeccadenham7943 What are you wanting to see on a video?
Well I am going to have to change the front axles,ujoints. I don’t know what else right now. I hope that’s it. Oh and brakes.but I all ready know how to do brakes they are about the same as a car.
Michael You Can Fix That hi how are you? I have a question? I’m having trouble getting the drive shaft out! How long did it take you to get it out? Any advice would be appreciated.thank you ahead of time.
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
THE BEST VID ON U TUBE FOR THESE DANG U JOINTS..PERIOD.. and I’ve been looking for weeks for my Kaw Mule, 😂, so double thumbs up 👍👍, and thank Sir. I was surprised that the vice worked better than ( I’m guessing, a stand up hydraulic press though) , but hey improvise is good and thank you so very much. New sub here for sure ! ! !
Thanks for the sub and I hope you get yours fixed.
Thank you this saved a lot of trouble
One of the best parts about educational videos is the cousin 🤷🏻♂️🤣
Great video. Got to see everything I needed to. Thanks
Brilliant video! Thank you so much!
Thank you 🙏
Thanks, Mike. 7-4 till da world blow! GDN 🔱🔯🔱
good video my friend
Just the video I needed.. I am having an issue getting the pin out of the shaft to remove the drive shaft. It's very rusted. Any suggestions? I beat the hell out of it with a punch. Thinking about buying an air hammer.
Jay Bourbon You are going to have to do to one of two things. You can try heating it up with a torch then Knocking it out or drilling the pin out. Just make sure you have a punch tool that long enough and strong enough to be able to get good hits.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat I have a very good drill bit set and it just wasn't able to drill it.. That pin is very hard. I'm going to try heating it up and getting a better punch set. Thank you again for your response and a great video!
thank you sir
You saved me a lot of time. Thank you.
That's good because time is money.
Super helpful. I'm about to do the same thing and your video should save me a few swear words
I hope it cuts a few hours off the experience also. You will still have the swear words.
Great video Michael.I have a 2004 6x6.Needs rear drive axle u joints replaced.Polaris says axles and u joints have been discontinued.Where can I get u joints for my old Ranger?
Believe it or not just type your model, year and size on Amazon. Amazon will find it.
Man never trust a cinder lock ..had one disentigrate ..luckily i got out from under truck before it killed me
Good job I have a problem axle don't solide out
It must have been sitting up for a while? But as you probably know it’s just rusted together. I would WD40 or some PB Blaster the whole axle and maybe use a torch to put some heat to it and hit it with a hammer to try to get it to come apart. I hope that helps.
Clinton Wiggins-man I had to buy à REAR DIFFERENTIAL I TRY NUMBER OF PEOPLE ADVICE TRY REMOVE THOSE AXLE OUT TOOK TO SHOP NO ONE COULD HELP ME I WATCH MANY RUclips JOB COULD NOT REMOVE AXLE
I have a sportsman twin 800.2006 I like your class I have a nice street Rod nova 72 still learning how to work on 958 hp with à procharger
at 8:00 could you have pried up the engine a bit to help get the drive shaft out? That aspect looked like a real pain in the ass.
Thanks man
Great video 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks
Thank big help
You are welcome.
We did all this and put the shaft back in with new U-joints. Next day the 4x4 is not working properly and the front drive/prop shaft that we just put the U-joints in is not turning properly on the transmission part. It is rattling/knocking and barely spinning. Does this mean the transmission part where there are teeth is messed up?
Did you put the roll pin back in the u-joints house that is connected to the transmission? Sound like the pin is missing?
The teeth may also be but gone. Because the shaft should still turn without the roll pin in there. Maybe the pin was the only thing making it turn before you took it out? You may have to jack the ATV up with all 4 tires off the ground and see if the front tires turn.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat front tires barely turn in 4x4 only sometimes when the shaft catches. My model is a 2001 sportsman 500 ho there is only one pin in the front near the differential there isn’t a pin in the back. I’m guessing the teeth are worn off and I’m gonna have to order a new yolk or a whole new driveshaft (since a used driveshaft is the same price as a new yolk)
I just worked on a 500 Polaris and couldn’t get the rear yolk off,it was seized tight. Tried heat and penetrating oil. Any idea?
Make sure you have the Retaining clip off the inside of the yoke. I would get me a zip lock bag and fill with motor oil. Soak the yoke in that oil for a day. Then get me a socket that will fit in the inside of the yoke and beat it until it comes apart. It will come apart. I would try more heat. Heat all ways work. You may just need more. Good luck
I got a Polaris sportsman 450 from 06, but I need new yokes. Is the front yoke different from the back yoke?
No, on my 2006 the yokes were the same front and back.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat one wasn’t longer was it? On my Manual it shows that the back yoke is Longer where it goes into the transmission shaft but shorter on the differential side
@@motors-anonymous9783 Sorry you are right. I thought you was talking about the U-joints. But yes the back yoke is longer than the front yoke.
@@motors-anonymous9783 www.ebay.com/itm/114033002629. You need a kit like this one but no one has it in stock. www.ebay.com/itm/272489230191
@@michaelyoucanfixthat ok thanks for helping me clarify! I really appreciate you taking time to reply on the 5 year old video. Thanks for the dedication!
You never showed how you got the front yoke broke loose from the front diff. Only how to get the last bit done. I'm having trouble separating it after knocking the set pin out. What's the trick? I've tried pb blaster, heat, pry bars, etc.
Did you remove the two bolts holding the front diff to the frame? If you have and you got the pin out. It should be ready. On mine the pin was the problem. After the pin was out the yoke was lose. I just took my pry bar and forced it away from the diff. Is your diff moving back? If the yoke is not moving. It has to be rusted and need to be soaked. It will come off with enough force.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat I've tried prying with the front diff loose and bolted down, it doesn't matter because that sucker is stuck! I've been soaking it with pb blaster and still and no luck. It's rusted together I guess...
@@flop3567 If you have any flux that you use from copper pipe? You can put that flux all over the yoke and shaft. Then spray a good amount of PB Blaster on the shaft. Then put a little heat to the front diff shaft. That flux will suck that PB baster up in the shaft splines. Then let it sit for 30min or so. If not that you will need to make a oild bath for that yoke and shaft. Get you a plastic bag. Something like a zip lock bag and try to get it over the yoke where the shaft comes in the yoke. You may need to cut one side a little. Then pour oil in the bag untl the level is over the shaft and let it sit over night. It should come off with one of the method. Let me know.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat I will try that, thanks a lot! Great video by the way.
@@flop3567
HEAT
Are the back joints the same as the front ones?
Yes, they are the same.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat thank you💯
My pin in stuck in the yolk, what do I do
First thing you need to keep spraying it with some kind of rust penetrating oil. Get a good set of long punches to be able to hammer and knock that pin out. It will come out it just rusted in there. Just get you a 1lb hammer and just beat the living tar out of it. It that doesn’t work bring out the torch and heat up around the pin as hot as you can get it and beat on it some more. If you ever get it to move just a little it will come out of there. But if that doesn’t work you are going to have to drill it out. Good luck 👍🏽
OK so I tried everything to get that dam pin out of the front drive shaft. Nothing worked.. I either have to cut the whole drive shaft in half by the pin on each side with a cutting wheel or I have to replace the u joint on the atv in that area.. Could it be done on the atv?
Jay Bourbon I think your best bet is to find a super heavy duty drill bit and try drilling it out again. Because you are going to do some unwanted damage trying to cut stuff off. Get a bit small enough to go down the center of the roll pin. The middle of that pin should be hollow and should drill some what easier that drill the whole pin. Maybe then you can beat it off. Soak it in PB blaster than heat it up much as possible. Beat and beat on it. You just need it to move and then you got her. I know you don’t want to hear that but that where you at. If you had a torch you could burn the pin out but don’t give up and do something crazy. It is just rusted in place.
@@michaelyoucanfixthat after smashing my hand 4 times I gave up.. Hah.. I'll give her another go.. Isy try to replace the u joint on the atv. I've been through worse.. 🍻
I have the long Polaris punch tool and found the correct hammer did the job. I started on mine with all my heavy mini sledges, but could not get it the budge. Most of the handles were over 16". I even put the pin in an air hammer with no movement. As soon as I used my short handle about 10", 2 lbs sledge, it came right out. The right leverage worked.
hello is there big difference in quality betwen polaris and others atv chinese,korea, like cf moto,goes?
I don’t think there is a big difference on quality. There all set up the same way.
and the driving characteristics are similar?
@@damirivancic4964 some set high and it make them a little top heavy. It feels like it’s easy to roll over. But Polaris has nice ride height and feels safe. That’s what I like them.
you recomend me polaris sportsman?
@@damirivancic4964 Yes, I know Polaris. I have had one for over 15 years. I have worked on them for years and to me they are the best, longest lasting ATV out there. Plus you can find the parts for them. I have one. My wife has one. Good ATV’s.
get a mechanic hammer not a carpenter hammer.