I had a vibration for year's. Checked everything mathematically, changed shims, ect. Turns out the shop that did my SYE didn't tighten the front yoke all the way. GRS noticed it during a inspection. Once tightened , no more vibration.
Best driveshaft videos available. Years ago you sent me a new driveshaft and teeshirts that said show me your shaft and my shafts a woody(for my wife). Shake that shaft is a new one
This vid helped me a lot to find out what the .... happend yesterday at my Ford Capri. The unbalanced drive shaft test reproduced excactly the noise i heard under my tunnel (at 2300rpm machine revs). It stopped immediately when i hit the clutch and my speed dropped from 160km/h to 100km/h. At normal speed, nothing noticeable. Thanks a lot. 👍
Man, I love a good video that's no B.S., to the point, on topic and detailed with not only the relevant information you need but all the information you need and that's it. Great work.
Thank you for breaking down possible causes of vibrations. Very sad to see on your website that you're no longer making single piece shafts for Tacomas. Not looking forward to screwing around with axle shims and replacing yet another carrier bearing..... I WOULD SIGN OFF ON A WAIVER FOR A SINGLE PIECE SHAFT!
Haha, so many of our video comments are like "Thanks for getting straight to the point". As a pragmatist, an introvert, and someone who hates being in front of the camera, I am there to do one thing and one thing only: To explain the topic. I very intentionally don't start my videos with "Hey, what's up guys. . ." for that reason. Not trying to be a RUclips personality, I barely have enough personality to get by in life as is, none leftover for RUclips! :)
Great video! Recently towed my camper with my 2018 F-150 from the midwest to Arizona. During this tow, if I accelerated too much from a stop, I could feel it shudder (angle). So, I was careful not to accelerate too hard. However, after disconnecting the camper, I noticed a vibration between 45-55 mph (dynamic). Since I was still covered by Ford's 5yr/60k drivetrain warranty, I had the local Ford dealer diagnose and replace the driveshaft, which corrected the vibration. Sadly, it took them 2 weeks to figure it out and another 6 weeks to get a new shaft from Ford. That all said, I have 3 questions... 1) Did the angle shudder cause the dynamic vibration? I'm thinking, yes. 2) Someone told me it could be the leaf springs torquing (lifting) up causing the undesired angle - T or F? 3) Is there a way to prevent the acceleration shudder, say with straps or blocks? I have no idea. Also, it should be noted that I used a weight distribution hitch that leveled the truck within a ½ inch rear to front. Again, very informative video. I think the Ford dealership should have watched this. Thanks!
I put new u joints on my rear drive shaft because I had to take the transmission and transfer case out. Now I notice that at 75+ there is a vibration feeling. I tried my best to mark the drive shaft but because this was my first time I think some of the components are not longer in the correct position. I also don't know if those new u joints are good because they felt kinda tight even out of the box.
Oh,I eventually found out what was causing it, back at the beginning of 2022 I replaced the Guibo which led to me replacing the centre bearing, fitting the new Guibo made the vibration worse but the tailshaft centre bearing kind of separated itself from the rubber insulator & it was a V6 one whoever made the tailshaft fitted, they have a different offset to the V8 centre bearing which led me to believe me that was causing the vibration,it probably was giving me some vibration to some degree. I have even replaced the universal joint as I thought that it was binding but I kept both parts which I have refitted into the car early this morning,I mentioned that I have refitted because I tried replacing the Guibo on the rear differential which had some slight splits in it but I kept the old one. Well,I placed the rear of the car on jack stands then I checked the tailshaft while I ran it in first & second gear,the rear section was good but the front half was throwing a wobbly at idle speed. So I switched the engine off then I got a dial gauge then I checked for driveshaft runout,there was 0.4mm or 0.016" of runout at the front of the shaft up near the front tailshaft flange, it looked like that the Guibo may have been warped as well. I decided to take the cheapest route,I fitted the Guibo which was fitted onto the rear differential yoke & tailshaft then I fitted it up to the front,I ran the engine in first gear & checked for that dreaded wobble which had almost completely diminished,it was a major improvement.I test drove my car this morning at about midnight & the vibration in second gear was gone. Buying the cheap $55 AUD Guibos are a hit & miss affair I think so I can either take my chances with them or pay 2-3 times as much money for a reputable brand of Guibo !
Hello, as you are an expert in driveshafts, can this cause wobbling in the steering wheel after 80km/h??? I changed all bearing and tires, did all it can be done and I can't get rid of the whobble
My 2002 Model Holden VY SS Commodore which is an Australian built car & is the right hand drive sedan version of the Australian delivered Pontiac GTO in the U.S. has 1 universal joint in the middle. Well,5 years ago I ordered a new aftermarket tailshaft because the universal joint was stuffed & it was a non replaceable type because it was staked in. I still had vibration issues with the tailshaft which I replaced so I replaced the universal joint after I replaced the centre bearing actually because it shook itself to pieces after almost 4 years,it was fitted with a V6 centre bearing which was offset 5 millimetres further to the right than the V8 centre bearing was. I actually replaced the universal joint last Christmas but I checked it tonight & it has some play in the trunnion & cups on the yoke ears of the front shaft so go figure,I figured out that there's a minute amount of play in the trunnion & cups for the front half shaft. Now,I am worried that there's some error in the machining of the yoke ears therefore uf I keep on having trouble with this tailshaft then I will just order another one because I need a car to drive. I wouldn't be able to get to the local tailshaft specialist if I took the tailshaft out of mine to get them to fix it, it's an odd size, the total trunnion & Cap width is 77 millimetres & the trunnion cap diameter is 29 millimetres. Most of the universal joints which are that size have a total width of 76.6 millimetres , they're fitted to the Great wall vehicles !
Hello! Thanks for the informative video. We'll done! I just bought a 2005 f150 and its perfect at high speeds, but taking off while turning, like out of a driveway, when taking off there is like a shuttering that comes from the rear end. Does that sound like driveshaft/u-joint to you. Thanks so much
If it is drive shaft related it sounds like it is an angle issue. Normally turning shouldn't affect drive shaft issues but perhaps there is more resistance, therefor more load on the shaft, when you are turning. Angle related drive shaft shudders are usually worse under load. Could be something else entirely though.
2015 Cadillac SRX AWD. No codes, transmission shifts just fine. Terrible vibration at 20-25 mph, persists lightly at higher speeds but much less, got worse after new tires, mount and balance were triple checked. Wondering if rear drive shaft could be the problem.. I think i will pull the shaft and attempt to drive without it and see if thr problem is gone using FWD only..
Since my Holden VY SS Commodore had play in the middle universal joint I replaced it last night & the vibration at 80 km/h (50 mph) is gone but it now has a vibration on both acceleration & deceleration in second gear at about 20 km/h (12 mph) so I am starting to lean towards a worn tailshaft extension housing as being the culprit,it can't be drive angle related because I have the standard FE2 suspension fitted into the car & I have fitted the T56 Tremec type of transmission mount which is for a VT series 2-VZ series 1 manual V8 Powered Commodores & they used them in all the way up to the VY Commodore in the manual Supercharged V6 models which were fitted with the Getrag 260 5 speed manual transmission. All of the Guibos have been replaced as well & the tailshaft extension housing seal is leaking a bit I think so I am starting to think that it's caused by a worn tailshaft extension housing Bush. If it's not that then I am tempted to buy a used V8 tailshaft then have Hardy Spicer go through my current aftermarket tailshaft !
Yes I have a 98 Suzuki Sidekick four-door automatic two-wheel drive. I'm going to have to have a Driveline made for it it has a constant velocity joint in it and I need a rough estimate on what it would cost to have that Driveline made I'm calling you from Cleveland Texas it's about 2:00 and my name is Tom Woods also okay thank you very much have a good day
Sounds nice until support after isn't there. After the last retube mine is worse than ever and was told to pound sand by Tom Woods. Can mark the driveline turning clocked in any orientation and tune is off center causing mine. Tom woods part I paid for but was told to pound sand.
Hi Kyle, Shawn Wood here. I looked up the records on this to try and gain some insight as to what you are upset about and here's what I can find. We lengthened and re-balanced a shaft for you in Dec 2023 then you called in April 2024 where you and I had a 1 minute and 15 second conversation. I don't remember the details of that conversation I may have said that I don't know how else to fix the problem or I may have explained that a double cardan shaft with a slip yoke style transfer case can result in high speed vibrations. I can guarantee that I did not tell you to "pound sand". At any rate, I'm sorry that we weren't able to help you and hope you were able to find the solution you were looking for somewhere else.
@@tomwoodscustomdriveshafts I informed you it is substantially worse than before. As shown in this video it clearly falls into the Dynamic vibration category. I understand that this style is less than ideal however no SYE'S are made for the Ford T-Cases so unfortunately is what it is in that regard. You did not specifically say pound sand but stated we checked it it said it was good so we don't need to check it again. When it's a dynamic issue. The bigger frustration is I have clocked it all over on T-Case splines as well as all 4 locations on diff flange and it is 100% the same so still leading towards a driveshaft issue. I placed a dial indicator and measured the run-out near pinion and T-Case and the whole tube top to bottom is not centered. I even ran it and marked it and it's clear where the tube is not centered. Have videos showing this etc. That's the reason I am frustrated. Vibration starts at 2,300rpm shaft speed and gets bad at 2,500rpm and remains bad to and past 3,000rpm. That is shaft speed not engine RPM. Gets a hair better under load and on deceleration. Worse when no load which again points towards a shaft balance concern. That's the frustration.
@@tomwoodscustomdriveshafts Angle at T-case is 13* and pinion is down 1.6* and is leaf sprung so under load should minimize to near 0 under operating conditions. Shaft length from center of u joint to center of CV is 35 1/4" so its nkt a super short shaft. Angle does suggest a double cardon should be best however with this style of slip on T-Case maybe a standard style driveline with substantially less rotating weight would be better. I belive the current one which is a 3" tube, 1350s is 27lbs. Which is a lot of weight to be spinning at 3,000-3,500rpm.
I have an 04 Jeep Liberty 3.7l automatic 4x4 that only vibrates between 35 and 45 mph and I noticed that when I go above that speed it stops and runs fine. But I also had a stored PO700 code along with the po740 code torque converter clutch solenoid. But I erased it and it never came back but the vibration still occurs between 35 and 40 miles per hour could it be a U-joint or drive shaft issue? Your opinion please help
Instead of taking the driveshaft out to check balance. What if the back of the vehicle is jacked up and the rear tires taken off. Then put it into manual at the gear used for highway and put rpm at highway speeds. Would that work? Mine vibrates at 55 and above, new tires been balanced twice. Wondering what is causing it.
Hey Shawn. Thanks for the video. I am hoping you could help me. I have a 1976 chevy Silverado K20. I recently completed a frame off restoration. The ring and pinion in the rear was checked but not changed. I did replace all the bearings and seals. The driveshaft is the same one (which I did not have problems with before). The transfer case has a part-time four-wheel drive mod. Anyway, I have a strange noise/vibration at about 2000 RPM and 40 mph. It goes away when I let off the gas pedal. But with part throttle I hear a low frequency droning / pulsing noise/vibration. I put the vehicle on blocks and ran the truck but could not get the problem to occur. And the driveshaft appears to be running very smoothly. I only get the vibration going down the highway under load. The strange thing to me is the noise/vibration is not a constant loudness...it gets loud then fades then gets loud then fades over a 1 to 2 second interval. Do you have any idea what I should look for? What does the vibration typically sound like when your pinion angle is not correct? Is it a constant loudness? I have to say it's more of a noise than a vibration. It sounds like typical engine noise but it pulsates at a 1 to 2 second interval. I don't have much soundproofing installed yet in the vehicle so maybe I am getting some weird reverberation in the cab?
I have a 2005 Jeep TJ Wrangler and I installed a Rough Country 2.5 inch lift.. Now I have a vibration at 45 mph and higher it doesn't do it at low speeds and it never done this until I put the lift on it. That's all I done to my jeep was install a two and a half inch lift I never change the gears or anything. So mine is doing the opposite of what you just described in the video how can it be dynamic when I never changed anything but the lift?
I'm assuming you are talking about a 2020 or newer Ranger. They do have shudder/vibration issues but I don't think it is a balance issue. More on that here www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/one-piece-driveshaft.21381/
I have that issue of a driveshaft vibration. Like you mentioned about installing a lift that right after experiencing a vibration. However I didn’t do that I only replaced the transmission and I started to have a driveshaft vibration. I installed a new drive shaft and still does the same thing. Would the angles have changed or a transfer case issue? All parts are factory. Would appreciate your input if possible.
HI Omar. I'm not sure I fully understand the question but if you installed a lift the angles have changed. A change in angles can certainly cause drive shaft vibrations.
Hi Tom, I still feel a slightly vibration on car center console at the speed 40-50 km/hour after replacing three flexible joint on my volvo 940. Above 50 km/hour the vibration become less. Do I need to do dynamic balancing the whole drive shaft? Or should I make correction on the flexible joint installation?
Harmonics probably. Everything in the vehicle that is moving is vibrating, just at varying intensities and frequencies. At certain points multiple parts of the system will all synchronize which will increase the perceived intensity.
Just had the rear ujoint replaced. Now at 50 mph there's a big vibration that changes frequency with engine rpm while at the same speed. It has a deep low frequency harmonic that follows the engine rpm. Any ideas?
There are many possible causes and factors, depending on the type of vehicle you have. Give us a call at 801-737-0757 so we can help you troubleshoot further.
Great video. I recently bought Tom Woods driveshafts for my 16 JKU. About a month later i regeared to 4.56 on 35s (34.25 when measured) and I’m getting slight vibration when i go above 70mph. I removed the front driveshaft to see what would happen and i had zero vibrations above 70, i even went up to 80mph. Could this be a balancing issue?
@@jeepmandan5334 Yup, I got it fixed. I had to get the driveshaft rebalanced with the flanges attached to it. I had to take it to a shop that had a machine that could rebalance with the flanges.
@@jaimereyes7480 mine was the washer in the u joint. Had 2 on one side instead of 1 on each. It was off by about .040". Fixed all my vibration getting the driveline balanced
@@garybrady7245 inside the u joint there's washers that drop inside the cap. 1 per. There was 2 on one side on mine. Had my driveline out of balance. Took it to a good driving shop and they got it fixed pretty quick.
@@1984keen never knew that I always just thought that there was just some needle bearings and grease inside there. I'll have to check that out next time I got a u joint in my hand
I recently had my range rover guy change one front drive shaft as he said it was worn out, now when turning right at low speed I can feel a buzz through the body and steering. it feels like a pinion running up against metal. It's a high-frequency zzzzzzzzzz - any clues about what they may have done wrong? They are unable to diagnose the issue although they say it could be the steering pump or steering rack but I feel they are just wanting to change parts as they don't actually know what it is. The garage initially said they had been sent the wrong driveshaft and had to get another. It didn't buzz at all until the new driveshaft was fitted.
I installed an SYE and Tom woods driveshaft a couple years ago and since then I’ve -axle swapped (dana35-chry8.25) -increased lift -3:55-4:10 ratio And after gear change I got some wicked vibration from 52-70 mph and up. Is my DS to short now that increased lift height and axle? Could it be that my driveshaft is Imbalanced now at higher RPMs due to the changes made? Can I have my DS rebuilt to fit the changes, or do I need to order a new one?
It could be that the shaft is now too short and that there is less contact area therefor less stability between the slip yoke and spline stub. 4xshaft.com/blogs/faq/how-much-of-my-spline-should-be-showing. It could also be that the shaft is worn and has some loose parts. It could be that the front shaft is worn and has loose parts. Though I don't know what type of vehicle this is and whether or not your front shaft is spinning all the time. If you conclude that the rear shaft needs to be rebuilt or modified, we can certainly do that for you. You'll need to call us for details about that process.
I have a Tom wood drive shaft on my 2005 tacoma. It vibration around 30-40mph . But my issues is it starting to have a clunking noise when i shift to reverse and drive. Is this a normal issues ?
I have a new 2023 f150 that starts vibrating at 65 mph and progressively gets worse w higher speed, ive went round and round w 2 different dealerships, they have balanced tires more than 8 times, road force balanced tires, replaced all 4 tires, now they have wheels ordered, I keep telling them it needs a new drive shaft, both dealership tell me I'm wrong because it's not at a violent or high frequency, it's definitely mph related, does it at various rpm and even in neutral (so not shudder or torque convertor or engine miss fire) also I checked the run out w a dial indicator, axle pinion end was zero run out, slip yoke end at transfer case has .020" run out (1 pc aluminum drive shaft) dealership says they can be upto .040" and be in spec , this seems extreme to me, what is your opinion? Also ford drive shaft have an internal rubber damper, ive heard its possible this can come detached and move around inside which obviously would cause imbalance, have you experienced this? Any feedback would be great, thanks
It would be worth having the shaft inspected and re-balanced at a local drive shaft shop. Definitely sounds like it could be a drive shaft vibration. The "specs" for runout are highly subjective, as are the specs for balancing. That being said, any shaft will have some runout and in theory the amount of runout doesn't matter as long as the shaft is properly balanced. That's the whole idea behind balancing a shaft anyway, adding weight to the low side of mass to counter any eccentricity in the shaft. 0.020" runout sounds pretty typical and not abnormally eccentric.
2024 LEXUS GS350 FSPORT AWD...BEEN SHAKING LIKE HELL AT LOW SPEEDS, HIGH SPEEDS, INTERMITTENT, AND MOSTLY WITH SOMEONE IN THE PASSENGER SEAT. MANY PARTS REPLACED, NO HELP. NEXT ITEM TO HAVE INSPECTED AND REPLACED, REAR DRIVE SHAFT. ANYONE HAD THIS ISSUE, AND SOLVED IT?
I got a rwd 2008 is350 so it’s a single shaft but at a stop or when coming to a stop u can hear and feel a slight vibration under the car fucking annoying as soon as I step on the car it goes away and the car drives fine
The best solution; always buy front wheel drive vehicles. I have a 4Runner. In the last four years I have owned it, I have engaged the 4WD for around 10 minutes.
I had a vibration for year's. Checked everything mathematically, changed shims, ect. Turns out the shop that did my SYE didn't tighten the front yoke all the way.
GRS noticed it during a inspection. Once tightened , no more vibration.
Now THIS is a good video. This can really help people dealing with those issues. Great work
Another Aussie and new sub ... Robby sent me. Thanks for helping our mate Lynchy... Mega Kudos
Best driveshaft videos available. Years ago you sent me a new driveshaft and teeshirts that said show me your shaft and my shafts a woody(for my wife). Shake that shaft is a new one
This vid helped me a lot to find out what the .... happend yesterday at my Ford Capri. The unbalanced drive shaft test reproduced excactly the noise i heard under my tunnel (at 2300rpm machine revs). It stopped immediately when i hit the clutch and my speed dropped from 160km/h to 100km/h. At normal speed, nothing noticeable. Thanks a lot. 👍
Thankyou for sererating the 2 sources of vibration 1/ angle imbalance vs 2/ actual weighted imbalance
Man, I love a good video that's no B.S., to the point, on topic and detailed with not only the relevant information you need but all the information you need and that's it. Great work.
Super informative. Thanks for putting the time in to explain
I just shortened one of your shafts, the welds were beautiful and the phasing was laser-perfect.
Best video on the internet for this. Excellent explanation
Well, this answered all my questions. Thanks for the great, informative video. All the information one needs, and nothing more. 👍
Thank you for breaking down possible causes of vibrations. Very sad to see on your website that you're no longer making single piece shafts for Tacomas. Not looking forward to screwing around with axle shims and replacing yet another carrier bearing..... I WOULD SIGN OFF ON A WAIVER FOR A SINGLE PIECE SHAFT!
Nice video. Where are the guards on that shaft balance rig?
Superb video, a markerstone for getting to the point. Thank you
Haha, so many of our video comments are like "Thanks for getting straight to the point". As a pragmatist, an introvert, and someone who hates being in front of the camera, I am there to do one thing and one thing only: To explain the topic.
I very intentionally don't start my videos with "Hey, what's up guys. . ." for that reason. Not trying to be a RUclips personality, I barely have enough personality to get by in life as is, none leftover for RUclips! :)
I love the background music! And this helped me diagnose my infinit g37 driveshaft (custom built basically new for high hp application).
Great video! Recently towed my camper with my 2018 F-150 from the midwest to Arizona. During this tow, if I accelerated too much from a stop, I could feel it shudder (angle). So, I was careful not to accelerate too hard. However, after disconnecting the camper, I noticed a vibration between 45-55 mph (dynamic). Since I was still covered by Ford's 5yr/60k drivetrain warranty, I had the local Ford dealer diagnose and replace the driveshaft, which corrected the vibration. Sadly, it took them 2 weeks to figure it out and another 6 weeks to get a new shaft from Ford. That all said, I have 3 questions...
1) Did the angle shudder cause the dynamic vibration? I'm thinking, yes.
2) Someone told me it could be the leaf springs torquing (lifting) up causing the undesired angle - T or F?
3) Is there a way to prevent the acceleration shudder, say with straps or blocks? I have no idea.
Also, it should be noted that I used a weight distribution hitch that leveled the truck within a ½ inch rear to front.
Again, very informative video. I think the Ford dealership should have watched this. Thanks!
I put new u joints on my rear drive shaft because I had to take the transmission and transfer case out.
Now I notice that at 75+ there is a vibration feeling. I tried my best to mark the drive shaft but because this was my first time I think some of the components are not longer in the correct position.
I also don't know if those new u joints are good because they felt kinda tight even out of the box.
Robby sent me over Subscribed
This video is gold 👏
Oh,I eventually found out what was causing it, back at the beginning of 2022 I replaced the Guibo which led to me replacing the centre bearing, fitting the new Guibo made the vibration worse but the tailshaft centre bearing kind of separated itself from the rubber insulator & it was a V6 one whoever made the tailshaft fitted, they have a different offset to the V8 centre bearing which led me to believe me that was causing the vibration,it probably was giving me some vibration to some degree.
I have even replaced the universal joint as I thought that it was binding but I kept both parts which I have refitted into the car early this morning,I mentioned that I have refitted because I tried replacing the Guibo on the rear differential which had some slight splits in it but I kept the old one.
Well,I placed the rear of the car on jack stands then I checked the tailshaft while I ran it in first & second gear,the rear section was good but the front half was throwing a wobbly at idle speed.
So I switched the engine off then I got a dial gauge then I checked for driveshaft runout,there was 0.4mm or 0.016" of runout at the front of the shaft up near the front tailshaft flange, it looked like that the Guibo may have been warped as well.
I decided to take the cheapest route,I fitted the Guibo which was fitted onto the rear differential yoke & tailshaft then I fitted it up to the front,I ran the engine in first gear & checked for that dreaded wobble which had almost completely diminished,it was a major improvement.I test drove my car this morning at about midnight & the vibration in second gear was gone.
Buying the cheap $55 AUD Guibos are a hit & miss affair I think so I can either take my chances with them or pay 2-3 times as much money for a reputable brand of Guibo !
Thanks for the helpful trouble shooting tips!
VERY informative video. Thanks for this one. 👍
Great info here!
Ok, so according to your video I have an angle problem, now how do I fix it.
Hello, as you are an expert in driveshafts, can this cause wobbling in the steering wheel after 80km/h??? I changed all bearing and tires, did all it can be done and I can't get rid of the whobble
My 2002 Model Holden VY SS Commodore which is an Australian built car & is the right hand drive sedan version of the Australian delivered Pontiac GTO in the U.S. has 1 universal joint in the middle.
Well,5 years ago I ordered a new aftermarket tailshaft because the universal joint was stuffed & it was a non replaceable type because it was staked in.
I still had vibration issues with the tailshaft which I replaced so I replaced the universal joint after I replaced the centre bearing actually because it shook itself to pieces after almost 4 years,it was fitted with a V6 centre bearing which was offset 5 millimetres further to the right than the V8 centre bearing was.
I actually replaced the universal joint last Christmas but I checked it tonight & it has some play in the trunnion & cups on the yoke ears of the front shaft so go figure,I figured out that there's a minute amount of play in the trunnion & cups for the front half shaft.
Now,I am worried that there's some error in the machining of the yoke ears therefore uf I keep on having trouble with this tailshaft then I will just order another one because I need a car to drive.
I wouldn't be able to get to the local tailshaft specialist if I took the tailshaft out of mine to get them to fix it, it's an odd size, the total trunnion & Cap width is 77 millimetres & the trunnion cap diameter is 29 millimetres.
Most of the universal joints which are that size have a total width of 76.6 millimetres , they're fitted to the Great wall vehicles !
Hello! Thanks for the informative video. We'll done! I just bought a 2005 f150 and its perfect at high speeds, but taking off while turning, like out of a driveway, when taking off there is like a shuttering that comes from the rear end. Does that sound like driveshaft/u-joint to you. Thanks so much
If it is drive shaft related it sounds like it is an angle issue. Normally turning shouldn't affect drive shaft issues but perhaps there is more resistance, therefor more load on the shaft, when you are turning. Angle related drive shaft shudders are usually worse under load. Could be something else entirely though.
I just shook my shaft, and it's rock solid !! Lol
Question, did you shake while in neutral on a lift or park on the ground?
2015 Cadillac SRX AWD. No codes, transmission shifts just fine. Terrible vibration at 20-25 mph, persists lightly at higher speeds but much less, got worse after new tires, mount and balance were triple checked. Wondering if rear drive shaft could be the problem.. I think i will pull the shaft and attempt to drive without it and see if thr problem is gone using FWD only..
Since my Holden VY SS Commodore had play in the middle universal joint I replaced it last night & the vibration at 80 km/h (50 mph) is gone but it now has a vibration on both acceleration & deceleration in second gear at about 20 km/h (12 mph) so I am starting to lean towards a worn tailshaft extension housing as being the culprit,it can't be drive angle related because I have the standard FE2 suspension fitted into the car & I have fitted the T56 Tremec type of transmission mount which is for a VT series 2-VZ series 1 manual V8 Powered Commodores & they used them in all the way up to the VY Commodore in the manual Supercharged V6 models which were fitted with the Getrag 260 5 speed manual transmission.
All of the Guibos have been replaced as well & the tailshaft extension housing seal is leaking a bit I think so I am starting to think that it's caused by a worn tailshaft extension housing Bush.
If it's not that then I am tempted to buy a used V8 tailshaft then have Hardy Spicer go through my current aftermarket tailshaft !
Yes I have a 98 Suzuki Sidekick four-door automatic two-wheel drive. I'm going to have to have a Driveline made for it it has a constant velocity joint in it and I need a rough estimate on what it would cost to have that Driveline made I'm calling you from Cleveland Texas it's about 2:00 and my name is Tom Woods also okay thank you very much have a good day
Sounds nice until support after isn't there. After the last retube mine is worse than ever and was told to pound sand by Tom Woods. Can mark the driveline turning clocked in any orientation and tune is off center causing mine. Tom woods part I paid for but was told to pound sand.
Hi Kyle, Shawn Wood here. I looked up the records on this to try and gain some insight as to what you are upset about and here's what I can find. We lengthened and re-balanced a shaft for you in Dec 2023 then you called in April 2024 where you and I had a 1 minute and 15 second conversation. I don't remember the details of that conversation I may have said that I don't know how else to fix the problem or I may have explained that a double cardan shaft with a slip yoke style transfer case can result in high speed vibrations. I can guarantee that I did not tell you to "pound sand". At any rate, I'm sorry that we weren't able to help you and hope you were able to find the solution you were looking for somewhere else.
@@tomwoodscustomdriveshafts
I informed you it is substantially worse than before. As shown in this video it clearly falls into the Dynamic vibration category. I understand that this style is less than ideal however no SYE'S are made for the Ford T-Cases so unfortunately is what it is in that regard. You did not specifically say pound sand but stated we checked it it said it was good so we don't need to check it again. When it's a dynamic issue. The bigger frustration is I have clocked it all over on T-Case splines as well as all 4 locations on diff flange and it is 100% the same so still leading towards a driveshaft issue. I placed a dial indicator and measured the run-out near pinion and T-Case and the whole tube top to bottom is not centered. I even ran it and marked it and it's clear where the tube is not centered. Have videos showing this etc. That's the reason I am frustrated. Vibration starts at 2,300rpm shaft speed and gets bad at 2,500rpm and remains bad to and past 3,000rpm. That is shaft speed not engine RPM. Gets a hair better under load and on deceleration. Worse when no load which again points towards a shaft balance concern. That's the frustration.
@@tomwoodscustomdriveshafts Angle at T-case is 13* and pinion is down 1.6* and is leaf sprung so under load should minimize to near 0 under operating conditions. Shaft length from center of u joint to center of CV is 35 1/4" so its nkt a super short shaft. Angle does suggest a double cardon should be best however with this style of slip on T-Case maybe a standard style driveline with substantially less rotating weight would be better. I belive the current one which is a 3" tube, 1350s is 27lbs. Which is a lot of weight to be spinning at 3,000-3,500rpm.
I have an 04 Jeep Liberty 3.7l automatic 4x4 that only vibrates between 35 and 45 mph and I noticed that when I go above that speed it stops and runs fine. But I also had a stored PO700 code along with the po740 code torque converter clutch solenoid. But I erased it and it never came back but the vibration still occurs between 35 and 40 miles per hour could it be a U-joint or drive shaft issue? Your opinion please help
Instead of taking the driveshaft out to check balance. What if the back of the vehicle is jacked up and the rear tires taken off. Then put it into manual at the gear used for highway and put rpm at highway speeds. Would that work? Mine vibrates at 55 and above, new tires been balanced twice. Wondering what is causing it.
Hey Shawn. Thanks for the video. I am hoping you could help me. I have a 1976 chevy Silverado K20. I recently completed a frame off restoration. The ring and pinion in the rear was checked but not changed. I did replace all the bearings and seals. The driveshaft is the same one (which I did not have problems with before). The transfer case has a part-time four-wheel drive mod. Anyway, I have a strange noise/vibration at about 2000 RPM and 40 mph. It goes away when I let off the gas pedal. But with part throttle I hear a low frequency droning / pulsing noise/vibration. I put the vehicle on blocks and ran the truck but could not get the problem to occur. And the driveshaft appears to be running very smoothly. I only get the vibration going down the highway under load. The strange thing to me is the noise/vibration is not a constant loudness...it gets loud then fades then gets loud then fades over a 1 to 2 second interval. Do you have any idea what I should look for? What does the vibration typically sound like when your pinion angle is not correct? Is it a constant loudness? I have to say it's more of a noise than a vibration. It sounds like typical engine noise but it pulsates at a 1 to 2 second interval. I don't have much soundproofing installed yet in the vehicle so maybe I am getting some weird reverberation in the cab?
What would be the proper length of drive shaft if I have 45 and 1/2 in from flange to flange?
I have a 2005 Jeep TJ Wrangler and I installed a Rough Country 2.5 inch lift.. Now I have a vibration at 45 mph and higher it doesn't do it at low speeds and it never done this until I put the lift on it. That's all I done to my jeep was install a two and a half inch lift I never change the gears or anything. So mine is doing the opposite of what you just described in the video how can it be dynamic when I never changed anything but the lift?
Excellent!
Robbie sent me Sub'ed.
I have a new Ford Ranger. Are these known to have out of balance drive shafts?
I'm assuming you are talking about a 2020 or newer Ranger. They do have shudder/vibration issues but I don't think it is a balance issue. More on that here www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/one-piece-driveshaft.21381/
Definitely have a dynamic issue
I have that issue of a driveshaft vibration. Like you mentioned about installing a lift that right after experiencing a vibration. However I didn’t do that I only replaced the transmission and I started to have a driveshaft vibration. I installed a new drive shaft and still does the same thing. Would the angles have changed or a transfer case issue? All parts are factory. Would appreciate your input if possible.
HI Omar. I'm not sure I fully understand the question but if you installed a lift the angles have changed. A change in angles can certainly cause drive shaft vibrations.
Hey I have a 2016 cadillac escalade esv and it had both, the angle and dynamic vibrations. Any solutions or advice?
Thank you!!!
Mine rattles only in neutral or going very slow
Hi Tom, I still feel a slightly vibration on car center console at the speed 40-50 km/hour after replacing three flexible joint on my volvo 940. Above 50 km/hour the vibration become less. Do I need to do dynamic balancing the whole drive shaft? Or should I make correction on the flexible joint installation?
I have the exact same issue with my 91 ranger 4x4, it vibrates from 40-50 then fades away!
I’m having the same problem with my Acadia it shakes from 40-50 then goes away , did you guys found out what the issue was?
So can a few weights "re balance" the shaft out with an angle related vibration from 30-35 mph?
My vibration hits around 78 mph and comes in waves, like a cycling in and out. 55 Chevy with a brand new Ford 9” differential. So hard to figure out.
I have a vibration at 1800 rpm and only occurs at this particular point. Any thoughts what could be causing this? Thx
Harmonics probably. Everything in the vehicle that is moving is vibrating, just at varying intensities and frequencies. At certain points multiple parts of the system will all synchronize which will increase the perceived intensity.
I have a vibration above 65mph that some times goes away and comes back any idea what might cause that?
Just had the rear ujoint replaced. Now at 50 mph there's a big vibration that changes frequency with engine rpm while at the same speed. It has a deep low frequency harmonic that follows the engine rpm.
Any ideas?
What if it vibrate at low speed and at high speed as well? I just bought toms wood drive shaft about a year ago and I have that vibration issue
There are many possible causes and factors, depending on the type of vehicle you have. Give us a call at 801-737-0757 so we can help you troubleshoot further.
@@tomwoodscustomdriveshafts sure will, thank you for replying
Great video. I recently bought Tom Woods driveshafts for my 16 JKU. About a month later i regeared to 4.56 on 35s (34.25 when measured) and I’m getting slight vibration when i go above 70mph. I removed the front driveshaft to see what would happen and i had zero vibrations above 70, i even went up to 80mph. Could this be a balancing issue?
That's an angle issue. Castor vs pinion angle. Get locking hubs and set your pinion correctly
Did you ever resolve your vibration issue? If so, what was the fix?
@@jeepmandan5334 Yup, I got it fixed. I had to get the driveshaft rebalanced with the flanges attached to it. I had to take it to a shop that had a machine that could rebalance with the flanges.
@@joserodriguez539Thank you!
Great video bud! I think you helped me figure out my issue!
Is it possible that the vibration lowers after a certain point? My truck vibrates from about 55 to 85mph. After 85 it seems to smooth out.
My truck does the same 50-70
@@jaimereyes7480 mine was the washer in the u joint. Had 2 on one side instead of 1 on each. It was off by about .040". Fixed all my vibration getting the driveline balanced
@Joaquin Ortiz exactly what are you talking about with washers on the u joints? Not sure I understand
@@garybrady7245 inside the u joint there's washers that drop inside the cap. 1 per. There was 2 on one side on mine. Had my driveline out of balance. Took it to a good driving shop and they got it fixed pretty quick.
@@1984keen never knew that I always just thought that there was just some needle bearings and grease inside there. I'll have to check that out next time I got a u joint in my hand
So I have a 93 f150 and at about 45 its shakes and at like 70 it goes away
I recently had my range rover guy change one front drive shaft as he said it was worn out, now when turning right at low speed I can feel a buzz through the body and steering. it feels like a pinion running up against metal. It's a high-frequency zzzzzzzzzz - any clues about what they may have done wrong? They are unable to diagnose the issue although they say it could be the steering pump or steering rack but I feel they are just wanting to change parts as they don't actually know what it is. The garage initially said they had been sent the wrong driveshaft and had to get another. It didn't buzz at all until the new driveshaft was fitted.
Remember women, when you shake that shaft, it should feel rock solid 😂
I installed an SYE and Tom woods driveshaft a couple years ago and since then I’ve
-axle swapped (dana35-chry8.25)
-increased lift
-3:55-4:10 ratio
And after gear change I got some wicked vibration from 52-70 mph and up.
Is my DS to short now that increased lift height and axle?
Could it be that my driveshaft is Imbalanced now at higher RPMs due to the changes made?
Can I have my DS rebuilt to fit the changes, or do I need to order a new one?
It could be that the shaft is now too short and that there is less contact area therefor less stability between the slip yoke and spline stub. 4xshaft.com/blogs/faq/how-much-of-my-spline-should-be-showing. It could also be that the shaft is worn and has some loose parts. It could be that the front shaft is worn and has loose parts. Though I don't know what type of vehicle this is and whether or not your front shaft is spinning all the time. If you conclude that the rear shaft needs to be rebuilt or modified, we can certainly do that for you. You'll need to call us for details about that process.
@@tomwoodscustomdriveshafts
Its a Jeep xj
I have a Tom wood drive shaft on my 2005 tacoma. It vibration around 30-40mph . But my issues is it starting to have a clunking noise when i shift to reverse and drive. Is this a normal issues ?
Replace ur u joints
I have a new 2023 f150 that starts vibrating at 65 mph and progressively gets worse w higher speed, ive went round and round w 2 different dealerships, they have balanced tires more than 8 times, road force balanced tires, replaced all 4 tires, now they have wheels ordered, I keep telling them it needs a new drive shaft, both dealership tell me I'm wrong because it's not at a violent or high frequency, it's definitely mph related, does it at various rpm and even in neutral (so not shudder or torque convertor or engine miss fire) also I checked the run out w a dial indicator, axle pinion end was zero run out, slip yoke end at transfer case has .020" run out (1 pc aluminum drive shaft) dealership says they can be upto .040" and be in spec , this seems extreme to me, what is your opinion? Also ford drive shaft have an internal rubber damper, ive heard its possible this can come detached and move around inside which obviously would cause imbalance, have you experienced this? Any feedback would be great, thanks
It would be worth having the shaft inspected and re-balanced at a local drive shaft shop. Definitely sounds like it could be a drive shaft vibration. The "specs" for runout are highly subjective, as are the specs for balancing. That being said, any shaft will have some runout and in theory the amount of runout doesn't matter as long as the shaft is properly balanced. That's the whole idea behind balancing a shaft anyway, adding weight to the low side of mass to counter any eccentricity in the shaft. 0.020" runout sounds pretty typical and not abnormally eccentric.
How to fix the angle of it
ruclips.net/video/SH2VIoWOQ0E/видео.html
2024 LEXUS GS350 FSPORT AWD...BEEN SHAKING LIKE HELL AT LOW SPEEDS, HIGH SPEEDS, INTERMITTENT, AND MOSTLY WITH SOMEONE IN THE PASSENGER SEAT. MANY PARTS REPLACED, NO HELP. NEXT ITEM TO HAVE INSPECTED AND REPLACED, REAR DRIVE SHAFT. ANYONE HAD THIS ISSUE, AND SOLVED IT?
I got a rwd 2008 is350 so it’s a single shaft but at a stop or when coming to a stop u can hear and feel a slight vibration under the car fucking annoying as soon as I step on the car it goes away and the car drives fine
thats a lot of play in your rear ujoint!
Robby sent me
When I shake my shaft it wiggles. My wife isn't going to be happy :(
4:45 lol
The best solution; always buy front wheel drive vehicles. I have a 4Runner. In the last four years I have owned it, I have engaged the 4WD for around 10 minutes.
Sounds like you live a boring life.
M’lady says a vibrating shaft is a good thing 😂