TRACKER TRANSOM AND REAR SKIN REPLACEMENT PART 1
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- This boat was completely water logged and the rear skin on the transom had a thousand holes eaten away. in thus video we will replace the skin both inner and outer without using a welder, basic tools only
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I watched the video twice. Still had a few questions. Read every comment and found answers to all my questions. So really I'm just helping your channel grow and helping with the YT algorithm by commenting. Great series as I'm re-doing a '91 Sylvan deep v 17 footer.
Thank you I appreciate you watching and commenting
Thank for your video, awesome repair, gave me the best solution to fix my transom. Your Chanel is like bible 🎉
Thank you. I appreciate that. You made my day. I’m gonna try to get back to posting videos and this comment sure helps.
Nice repair so far...and a pretty easy way to bring it new life
Im doing all the back on mine because i found more corrosion so i pulled the z plate off to clean behind it and your videos have made it easy to do i figuired it out and since the solid rivets are not that scary anymore im just going to replace those rivets on the bottom
That boat is going to be great Jeff!! Happy Fishing!
Thanks brother
Thanks for sharing have a blessed day in the name of Jesus
Thank you for the idea and demonstration
Hasn't happen yet to my first boat, but very informative. Looks like someone took a .22 and used the transom as a backstop or target practice. Great job on breaking down on riveted aluminum boats, liked and subbed!
Thank you. I appreciate you watching and commenting
Solid work 👏 Very interesting and informative video, boat looks great!!
Thanks I appreciate it
Thanks for making this video!
Yes sir. Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it
thanks jeff for ur time on the vids u do a great job
Thanks I needed that today. I appreciate you watching and taking time to comment
@@bowl830 never to old to learn jeff i may never do it but it helps out ur channel and now i know and mabe pass along the teaching to someone
Cool video, I have some work to do to an aluminum john boat so maybe I will learn something to help.
It’s not hard and it’s a permanent fix
Thanks Jeff, That epoxy sandwich is going to be nice.
Haha
Great video thank you. I have a similar one to do.
Thank you I appreciate you watching and commenting
I have the exact same boat. I’m ripping out the floors and replacing some leaking rivets. Before I get too far. What is the best way to check the transom?
It’s feels structural good. I don’t see any flex in the transom when I use the tilt trim. Or when it’s trimmed a bit up and I bounce the motor there’s no play. I also filled the boat up and didn’t see any leaking from the bottom side of the transom.
Looking for some solid tips since you have the same boat. It’s much appreciated
I have a 1 1/2 “ plywood transom, can I eliminate the plywood and use this sandwich method on my boat?
Looks like a good build. Is lacquer thinner the same as paint thinner. I was hoping you'd show how you fastened it with the screws because it's a little confusing to figure how you're going through factory holes from the inside, if they are factory holes, how can the screw grab the aluminum to clamp them together?
At the 10:00 minute mark I explain it. I put the interior on with small screws from outside through the factory holes. Then apply outside skin and do the same from inside. Then after all that sets i remove the screws and drill out the holes to the proper size. Thanks for watching
Good Job
I just need to get ride of the corrosion and then sand it all down to install the new aluminum like you did to your boat but it has to be bare aluminum right
Yes. Remove all chalky residue.
Amazing video. How did you remove the access holes through the transom to that splash well?
I just made a solid inner transom. Then covered them up with the new skins
Also gets rid of the other holes that where added and don’t need to be their i have to pull that stiffening bottom middle piece to clean all that and the corrosion off behind that and below that
Thanks for the video, awesome job, what kind of aluminium did you used? Is any specific kind for this job? Marine grade ?
I used 5052. That’s a marine grade with a high strength. Great for rivets but a pain to weld lol. Thank you for watching I appreciate it
Could you make a pattern like they do for countertops? A series of thin wood strips or heavy cardboard.
You can. I just get the basic shape. And then fasten or clamp to old transom.
Can you make a video on the acid etching you were talking about? Did you just use muriatic acid?
Yes sir. I use a diluted version. It’s about like what they clean ac units with. It will dull it. Then I use a good etching epoxy primer
Been studying this video as I’m doing the same thing on a StarCraft. My corrosion I think is two fold. One from treated wood, but also because of previous owner neglect and not sealing some holes from a ladder install. Boat was used on Chesapeake in brackish/saltwater.
Question. What did you use to remove all the white corrosion from the aluminum pits on the inside? Thanks and like the videos a lot.
You can use vinegar and soak it. Then use a stainless wire brush. Any good stiff bristles will work. JUST DONT use a steel brush. Then rinse it very good.
@@bowl830 Thank you! I appreciate your expertise. I realized I started using a plain steel brush (grabbed wrong one out of the box!) on a small section when I started cleaning it. I think I need to grab a courser stainless brush than the one I have. Some of the corrosion in the pits is hard as rock it seems like.
Being you used thin Aluminum gage material, how did get correct transom thickness?
I used 2 pieces of 3/4” synthetic material and a piece of 1/4” aluminum plate to make the inner transom.
How did you remove the original corrosion and get down to bare aluminum?
White vinegar and a stainless bite brush. Soak it keep it wet and scrub it. Then rinse with pressure washer
What did you use to get rid of the corrosion on the alumiun and what to prevent it from coming back
I used a stainless steel brush on most of it. And a wire wheel on the really bad stuff. Has to be stainless steel. I used vinegar to break it down. Vinegar is a mild acid it will remove most the chalky looking stuff and with a wire brush just scrub it in. Then rinse extremely well. I used a pressure washer. After it’s clean and dry I used a good quality epoxy and filled and sealed the bare aluminum. If it’s not real bad a good epoxy primer works great and gives great adhesion. Good luck and thanks for watching
You added the primer before you installed the skin
okay ill use the vinegar to get rid of the old corrosion and then rinse really well
I epoxied the skin to bare aluminum after it was cleaned
What did you use for a media when you blasted the aluminum transom ?
Thanks in advance
I used fine coal slag. But I didn’t linger on areas I moved quick. I just got as much of the loose stuff as I could. Then I used a stainless wire brush and cleaner to work the rest of the bad stuff off.
Hi Jeff
Really enjoy your channel. I am doing a transom skin replacement similar to your Legend project on my 1984 Springbok 196 center console. I have a question regarding the original transom that is being sandwiched mine has dimples pulled in it from the thru fasteners from when the original wood transom swelled. My question is should I use a hammer and dolly to tap them as flat as possible. Thanks in advance for your answer
Bill Taylor St.Thomas Ontario Canada
Yes sir. I would just to get it as flat as you can. When you clamp it it should take care of most of it anyway. Thank you for watching I appreciate it
Did you use 3/4 PVC for the transom and is it as strong as wood
I did but I used 1/4” aluminum in between the 2 layers
What was the length of the rivets you used on installing the skin to the transom
I believe I had to use 1/2”. If 3/16 rivet you want about 5/16 sticking through before you buck them
Reeling blue , so after all did also replace the transom with wood again ?? Or is it completely 100% Aluminium transom. Thanks for the videos .
I used a synthetic material not wood
The transom replacement video is up on my channel as well
Great video!! Couple of questions , would transom look that bad if it had marine plywood? My wood looks like it is factory but it’s pretty ate up on both enter and outer .
And what thickness of aluminum you are using for replacement skin ?
I used 1/8” outside and 1/16” inside. If I had enough I would have went 1/8” on both
Did you use muriatic acid?
Thanks
I used a very diluted version. You can also use vinegar. The key is to rinse it thoroughly to neutralize the reaction. I like the the Gflex epoxies.
@@bowl830
Thanks, I asked about the epoxy before I finished the video,
Cart before the horse.
😊
Love the build so far! I actually have that same exact model I'm currently working on myself. How much of the g flex did it take to do both skins? Looking forward to the future videos 👍
I bought the 2 quart kit. I’ve used about 3/4 of it. Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it
I got some pitting on my bass tracker. I've only got about 4 or 5 holes that's all the way through. Do I need to reskin it or you think I could do something else
If you clean it well the epoxy works great to just fill if they aren’t to large. What I would do would be drill them out to 3/16 and put a solid rivet in the hole. Thanks for commenting and watching I appreciate it
@@bowl830 ok thanks for the input it is much appreciated. God bless
Reeling blues how do you prepare to paint new Aluminium,??
I make sure the surface is perfectly clean first I use a low grade acid like vinegar to wet and let etch. Then I use a self etching epoxy primer. After that it’s just the normal process
The first link in the description doesn't lead to the product. Was it discontinued? What exact product did you use for the Epoxy?
I used G flex. In the quart cans
@@bowl830 thanks for replying quickly. I've got a 1957 jon boat with the same issue. Unfortunately the sheet is warped and not level
@@bowl830 do you remember how thick the aluminum sheets were? I was thinking of going with 1/16" but I'm not sure if that's going to be stout enough
Inside was 1/16. Outside was 1/8
What thickness was the aluminum did you use on the inside and outside please.
I watched part two and I think you said 3/16 on the outside?
You can get by with 1/8”. No problem. I just used what I had on hand.
Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it
@@bowl830 you’re welcome
I learned a lot.
Re;my wood transom…
My aluminum is in good shape but the wood transom is gone.
( its around 2” thick, do I replace it and use only the inner plate)or (replace it and use both inner and outer plates) (or just inner plate and no wood) (or inner and outer plate and no wood.)
Had a 90 horse on it.
MonArk boat 84 model.
Thanks again.
@@bowl830
Another question.
Can you laminate layers of aluminum like wood with this epoxy and if so up to 2”?
Thanks
@mikejustice1196 I have but not up to that thick
Do the rivets get in the way of the transom at all?
No they only stick out about 3/32. Which kind of works like a spacer to allow water not to get trapped
Any special tips Skill sawing Aluminum? (Ear Plugs) I have .125 checker plate as well as 1/4 inch Plates for my Boat to cut ? Thankyou
I do it but it’s not the safest way. I use a carbide tip blade and set the blade the right depth and go real slow. I wear a face shield and ear plugs. I usually cut it on top of a sheet of plywood that way it is fully supported.
I have the exact same problem. What do I use after sanding all pitting to stop it from spreading? Also do you think I can get away with just doing an outside skin?
Thanks for watching. You can use vinegar or some other low corrosive type cleaner and scrub the surface good. That will stop the reaction. It really depends how bad it is. Mine was eat up real bad on the inside. I appreciate you taking time to watch and comment
How did you deal with the original rivets on the edge and bottom?
This one had bolts from the back. I replaced them with neoprene washers and bolts. All the rivets were on the under side. The few rivets in the back I drilled out and replaced them with longer rivets after the skins were done. Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it
I plan on painting the whole boat with total boats aluminum barrier coat they make
What’s the thickness of alluminum
16 and 14 guage
what temperature do you try to aim for when using the west system 655 epoxy? and how much work time do you get? it says 45 minutes of work time at room temperature but i will likely be using it around 25C-77F and am worried its going to set up quickly.
At that temp you got about 20 minutes before it starts to jell up. If you use the non thickened you get a little longer. I try to have everything ready to roll when I mix it up.
@@bowl830 thanks for getting back to me, appreciate it!
hi
i need sum advice
What type of epoxy did you use and will this be water tight
I used G-flex 650. Yes it water tight and permanent
@@bowl830 yeah i have a 17 sylvan that where they put the wood they used silicone and the salt water got behind it and corroded it just where the outboard. Mounted to
I wasthinking of putting a aluminum sheet like you did on that area only what you think about doing that if the rest is good
nice job! what type\grade of aluminum did you use?
1/16insude. 1/8” outside. It’s marine grade. I believe it was 5052.
Thank you I appreciate it
@@bowl830 thanks!I'm working on a 1960's 14' aluminum deep V sea nymph. any idea where I can find keels? mine are pretty beat up.i have three of them all riveted,or I was thinking I could sister them some how?
I like to know where you got that pvc sheet from
You can get it at some contractor supply lumber yards. Not Lowe’s or home depot
How tall it is it once you put it in there
I meant how solid did the transom become wants you did thay
You also used g flex on that
It’s never gonna flex lol. It’s sealed and very strong
This repair is only as strong as the original transom where it connects to the hull with bucking rivets, that's the weakest link.
wow
Lol
Obviously you are a knowledgeable boat guy that has the skill to repair this boat. What confuses me is I don’t how a guy can make any money on this boat, just looking the labor costs it seems this boat is not a boat, actually it’s concrete submarine.
Lol. It’s not about money. It’s about showing people who can’t afford 30k for a boat how to keep what they got ship shape. I’ll have less than 2 k in the hull when finished. And probably a week of labor. Thanks for watching and commenting
What thickness is the skin that you glued to the transom?
Inside was 1/16”. Outside was 1/8”.