Distributor install in a 5.0L Ford Mustang
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- This video shows how to properly install a distributor in a 5.0L engine.
Eight easy steps:
1) Remove all the spark plugs so the motor turns easily by hand.
2) Rotate motor clockwise by hand until the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. Use a compression whistle if if necessary.
3) Rotate motor clockwise by hand until the 10 BTDC mark on the balancer sits just barely above the top flat edge on the timing tab, which is located on the timing cover.
4) Stab distributor in so that the rotor points approximately 1/2" to the left of the drivers side front lower intake bolt.
5) Make sure that your module is pointing towards the drivers side, and has plenty of room to swing either direction without hitting anything. If not, restab distributor again.
6) Align the edge of the skinny tooth on the reluctor wheel with the center of the PIP sensor, and lightly tighten the distributor.
7) Make sure the #1 spark plug wire is on the 2nd terminal of the distributor cap away from (and behind) the passenger side distributor cap holddown clip. Firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
8) Remove SPOUT connector. Start the engine and time to 10 BTDC with a timing light connected to the #1 spark plug wire. Reinstall SPOUT connector when finished.
Here is part 2 of this video, which just shows the results of our install procedure in part 1.
• Distributor Install in...
This is a very good video. Just installed msd distributor on 86 fox body and thanks to this video everything fell in place. Started on first crank. Good job.
By far THE BEST 5.0 timing video EVER! That pip tooth trick just got my 95’s new motor started. I did the initial start up with the spout out. Let it warm up til the fan came on. Set timing at 10* wasn’t off much. Turned the car off then added thd spout back. Running it has 20-22* timing and a clean smooth 850 rom idle. No check engine lights!!
Hats off to you for making this video!!!
This video saved me from insanity. Thanks a lot man. Got my 94 GT fired up after several days of figuring out why it wouldn't turn on. 👍💪
Man i just got my 90 gt timing set in my brand new 306 i put together and i've never had to install a distributor before . Everyone talks about tdc but your the first person that has expanded that you have to turn the motor to 10 deg before tdc before you put your distributor physically in the motor my car is running perfect it took me few times but she fired right up i have been pulling out my hair for 3 days till i saw your video i thank you a thousand times for explaining the process completely from start to finish looking forward to more tips and vids
Glad it helped you. I've posted loads of tech articles on 5 liters on the Drag Radial Performance Facebook page over the years. Be sure to check it out.
Thank you for the reference shot in relation to the intake bolts!
I have supercharger envy....nice.
Thanks ... Just saved a 1989 Mustang GT convertible from a junkyard, in Florida. Junkyard owner said it needed a motor. Because, motor wouldn't turn by hand. When I got the car home, we pulled the belt & motor turns over by hand, smog pump is locked up. Distributor was the only part missing on the car. So, I found one in a junkyard, from a 1988 Towncar. Last, night got mustang at top dead center. ( pulled #1 spark plug & stuck a screwdriver in the cylinder trick ) . today, going to install the distributor & cross my fingers. Thanks for the tips.
Cocoa Cabana howd it go
victor garcia lots of rain here in Florida, I haven't installed the distributor yet
Cocoa Cabana cool hope you can get video up when you can thx
How did it go?
Ok thank you for your great advice I appreciate it take care.
can you try to do your awesome videos in 1080p? I need to go get my eyes checked after watching these lol
I originally taped these with a mediocre smart phone, and broadcast them live on Facebook. Later, I decided it would be cool to upload them to You Tube. Unfortunately, the only way I could do that was with mobile quality, which was greatly reduced over the original mediocre quality. It was either this, or nothing. I agree, the video is horrible. But the content was good enough I thought it was worth putting out there. If I ever do any more videos, I'll be much better equipped.
can you do a water pump install for a foxbody 5.0...
No, sorry. I don't have one of these cars in my stable.
Can anyone tell me the symptoms of the bad distributor, i really believe this is my issue.will idle but as soon as i put it under pressure driving it 10 15 minutes ot so it will shut off like somebpdy hit an off switch, also cranks slow after it shuts off.sometimes it will crank back up after sitting a few minutes sometimes it wont.
Your symptoms are consistent with a bad ignition module. Unfortunately, it's really difficult to correctly diagnose a bad module without a scope. It's also very possible to get bad modules right out of the box, even with Motorcraft modules. I would throw a module at it. If you can test fuel pressure while it won't start, that would be a good idea. You can see my other videos for how to test a PIP sensor, and rule that out first.
@5.0L 5.0L I had the same scenario caught on camera with the scope in one of my videos on module testing. Except in that case, it was the module that quit putting out, while the PIP and SPOUT signals remained fine. Be careful using an LED test light for high voltage or amperage circuits. You could smoke it pretty easily. An incandescent test light is the right job for that.
Ignition switch take off the plastic around the steering colum and push the connection together and hold it Der if you need to
Do you set the harmonic balancer to tdc before you put the distributor in ???
Watch the video! 2:18 mark. You manually turn the motor to 10 BTDC before stabbing in the distributor.
@@dragradialperformance3540 thanks g
You're welcome. Good luck @@KingdoubleO. .
I'm working on someone else's 1992 F150 with 5.0 . Where should the button point with #1 piston at tdc AND dizzy at 0° . I would rather dial in the 10° with the distributor since I won't be the only person to work on this truck and future repair person's won't know about the engine being mechanically st to 10°....if that makes any sense
If you take the distributor out and look down where it goes does the cam supposed to spend
Jessie Dixon can you clarify your question?
Hi I have a 1988 Lincoln town with a 302 5.0l. I had a shop install a new Distributor and it hasn’t been Idling correctly since. It’s set at 12 degrees Timing and the Throttle position sensor is more then the recommended 1 vault.
Do you have advice on how I can Set the correct timing at 10 degrees and do a base Idle reset. Not sure if this would fix my issue, there’s no vacuum leaks and for what ever reason the car will not run correctly. Thanks.
Remove the SPOUT connector, and use a timing light to set the timing at 10 BTDC. Make sure you're not at 10 ATDC. Use a wire brush to clean off all the timing marks on the harmonic balancer. Make sure the #1 spark plug wire is the 2nd terminal away from the passenger side distributor cap hold down clip, and therefore the wires have not been moved around on the cap. Double check your firing order. Open up the PCM, and inspect the 3 teal blue capacitors very carefully for leakage and corrosion. Clean the mass airflow sensor hotwires with MAF cleaner.
With the engine warmed up and idling, unplug the IAC and adjust the throttle stop until the engine runs stable, but as low of an RPM as possible. Then plug the IAC back in when done. TPS voltage will likely end up in the .9's somewhere. Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Make sure the EGR valve is not directly connected to engine vacuum.
@@Pontisteve , thank you for responding I appreciate it, take care 👍🏼
Hi when the car is off it’s at 8 degrees is that correct? Or do I have to pull the Distributor, set engine timing to 10° to get top dead center and then start the base idle reset or can I adjust the distributor while the car is running to 10°? And follow your steps
Thank you.
@@sheba6779 You are physically turning the engine to 10 BTDC, then installing the distributor so that the rotor points to the right spot (1/2" to the left of the drivers front intake bolt). Then rotating the housing so that the skinny tooth's leading edge is right in the center of the pickup coil. Then bolt it down, start the engine, and fine tune the timing with a timing light.
If you did it right, the timing will be very close when you start it up, probably within 2-3 degrees of 10 BTDC.
I have 88 Lincoln mark 7 5.0 where is crank shaft sensor
Yours is the PIP sensor inside the distributor.
how many pounds does the blower put out?
I think that blower only put out like 6 PSI. It wasn't my car.
Is it absolutely necessary that the #1 position on the distributor is facing the direction you have it? Asking bc I’m using a fox efi setup with a different fuel rail (concerting old bronco to efi), and the cap bracket arm housing just barely hits the front of the fuel rail by #5 position to where I think it’ll be impossible to set the timing.
As long as the motor is at TDC, do I just need it make sure I’ve got the rotor and distributor lined up, regardless of where it’s pointing?
The distributor has to be stabbed a certain way so that you have a fairly equal amount of movement either direction when you're setting the timing. The timing gets set so that the rotor is facing spark plug wire #1 on the cap when the crank is at 10 BTDC on cylinder #1. The distributor housing could swivel all the way around and point wherever if it weren't for the fact that the module would hit stuff, so we need to stab it so the rotor points where it should and the cap lines up with the rotor.
There is 90 degrees of crank timing between each cap point. If you were to move the wires one position over on the cap, you could rotate that cap another 90 degrees to create some better room to rotate the housing and set the timing, and the ignition timing would be correct. But the injector timing would be 90 degrees off.
I'm not sure if this answers your question, but it is important that #1 on the cap is always the second plug wire away from the cap holddown bracket on the passenger side. You cannot move the plug wires around on the cap. You can however stab the distributor differently, and that will result in the housing being at a different position when the timing is right, without moving wires on the cap. You'll just have less timing adjustment room in one direction, and more in the other. If you can still get it to 10 degrees BTDC, then that's ok.
Drag Radial Performance Drag Radial Performance thanks for the reply, I believe you’ve answered my question. I just wanted to confirm stabbing the distributor in a different position shouldn’t affect anything (assuming the rotor and #1 cap position are aligned at tdc). First time installing one, couldn’t think of a reason the housing orientation would matter and just wanted to confirm. Thanks again
@@mwfoster80 Wherever you stab the distributor at (with motor at 10 BTDC on #1 compression stroke), that's where the #1 terminal on the cap has to be. And the #1 plug wire has to be connected to the cap terminal that's the second one away from the passenger side cap holddown clip. In other words, you cannot move the wires on the cap, or you'll screw up injector timing.
The reason I'm putting the rotor in that exact position in the video is because that's the proper place to put it in order to have an equal amount of distributor adjustment turning room in each direction. If you stab it any place else, you might end up with the module hitting something, like the intake manifold, and not allowing enough rotation adjustment, or very little adjustment on one side and a ton of space on the other.
Drag Radial Performance thanks again, I wish I could send a picture. Basically I just need to stab it about 10-15 degrees clockwise to your video position bc the distributor housing clamp will not allow for much rotation at all bc it hits the fuel rail if I go at the same position as you. I’m keeping the wires at the same positions on the cap. Really appreciate the video and responses
@@mwfoster80 As long as you set the motor at 10 BTDC crank position, AND you don't move any wires on the cap, you can stab it any way you want. However, there are only a very few positions that will also make the housing adjustment (Timing setting) correct. The one I show gives the perfect amount of adjustment room in either direction. But you could probably go one tooth left or right and have lots of adjustment room in one direction and nearly none in the other direction. But as long as you can get the timing set at 10 BTDC, it really doesn't matter. It's just aesthetics and adjustment range that are at stake here, if you're only 1 tooth off.
But think about it. There's 360 degrees and x many teeth on the distributor gear. So each tooth will be (360/x) degrees away. That means each tooth amounts to a lot, and there's only so much room before the module and distributor housing hits something. Now if you remote mounted the module and possibly ground on or machined down the distributor housing, you could probably buy yourself a lot more room. A 94-95 distributor and some wiring adaption could even eliminate the pad on the distributor.
Every one I have watched on installing a new distributor is setting us up for failure. This guy can’t stop bragging about all of the super charger stuff. He can’t even focus on teaching us how to install a distributor
Bragging? That's not my car, it's a customer's pile with a garbage blower on it that got in the way of everything I wanted to film. I've shown you how to mechanically set the ignition timing to 10 BTDC without a timing light, and how to properly stab your distributor so that it will start up the first time and be within 2 degrees of perfect when you put a light on it. Buddy, if that's not good enough for you, feel free to make your own you tube video and share your vast expertise.
1 Tooth off. Rotor should be more to the passenger side...
I don't know, - maybe because I'm at 15 BTDC on my timing, but it looks different. The spark plug wires are on the spot just like you described it. {by the way I like your videos}
@@matrixbikes not sure. There are 90 crankshaft degrees between each terminal on the cap, so bumping the timing 5 degrees won't have any real effect on distributor stabbing. If you moved the wires, you can move the rotor pointing location, but you will end up with injector timing being 90 degrees off.
However, if you don't move #1 wire on the cap, then the distributor must be set up the way I show it or you simply won't be pointing to the right cylinder when the coil fires and it won't run. If your #1 wire is the 2nd wire away from the cap holddown clip on the passenger side, then it has to be stabbed exactly where my video points to... about 1/2" or so left of the driver's lower intake bolt.
Yeah, I guess you are right. Even if the distributor is off one tooth it is OK, as long as the distributor housing can be moved around to set the timing. I set up the rotor position like you showed on your video and it did not make any change. Before that I was messing with my Distributor today. I checked it to see when the spark comes. I noticed when I turn the distributor #1 spark plug fires twice. I've tried it 5 times and only #1 gets the spark twice when I rotate the distributor housing. I really do not think it is right. Any ideas on that? {I appreciate any help}
@@matrixbikes The distributor being "off a tooth" would just mean you have to rotate the housing more, but the housing can only rotate so much without hitting something. The other option would be to move the plug wire on the cap, but then your injector timing would be 90 degrees off. It really just has to be this way. If you have the housing out and you're spinning the rotor, each cylinder should only fire one time. FYI, each injector is also firing, filling the cylinders up with fuel. Watch out that you don't flood or even hydrolock the motor doing that. If you want to keep playing with it, unplug the injectors.
If it truly is firing #1 twice, I would want to capture that on a scope waveform and see why.
OK. The TFI module was bad. {#1 spark plug fired twice on the row} I called MSD about this issue and the second guy I've talked to was able to give me a hint. He said it is probably the TFI Module. Brand new {I just got my MSD distributor rebuilt with Motorcraft pickup that I supplied to them} TFI Module failed after 17 miles. The car still idles like shit but I see improvement. It is better now. I'm still looking for the solution for the misfire issue. Idles bad, runs great on high RPM but I still can sense a misfire.
Please please please do not use steel toothbrush on your teeth