Excellent video and explanation, thank you very much! I am glad I watched your video before doing anything, otherwise I would have bought a complete valve set instead of just the actuator valve replacement. Completed the repair as instructed in your video, works great!
Thanks. But what if you DO need to remove the body of the assembly? The front nut is obvious, but the back one isn't a nut; the hex shape is molded into the body. Do you just spin the whole body off (assuming that there's enough clearance on each side to do so), or loosen the PVC thing that's below it? My system looks like it has a PVC ring with ribs on it underneath the rear of the valve body, and it's quite hard to access.
Great video even 6 years later. You mentioned to check the valve seat with your finger before installing the new actuator. I'd like to see a video on what to do if the seat isn't perfect. Mine are brass Champion valves and are probably repairable, but I haven't found the right tool or techniques to resurface the seat.
Subscribed. Great vids. This helped me as I was ready to hire someone and thought I had to rebuild the valve, or cut new pipe in. No wonder I got quoted so low for a replacement.
Hello,Im assuming the San fernando Valley ? If so,Larry & Joes plumbing supply or Ferguson. You can google them to see which location is closer. Hope this Helped
Great video thank you! I have brass orbit valves 57065 model number and one is leaking badly I have been unable to get the cap gasket off to replace the gaskets and diaphragm. Any suggestions on how unscrew them?
Thanks for this video, home I purchased has the same leaking valves and glad I watched this. Otherwise I would have bought new valve bodies without really needing to.
Nice video. It would have been helpful to review the purpose of the valve on the new actuator that was leaking at first and the other valve handle on the actuator.
YOu showed it pretty good but you are supposed to remove the anti-siphon portion before the adaptor part. also tell them that you should hold the valve it self so the PVC pipe doesnt break... But you guys do great work.
I don't think there should be any leakage from the anti-siphon valve cover, unless the washer is damaged - right? Also, they go on clockwise - not counterclockwise. And shouldn't there be grease caps around the wire nuts?
Leaking should occur only when water shuts off , Yes ,,clockwise to install . i would agree grease caps wold be good practice. Thanks so much for your feedback,
@@TwinHomeExperts My anti-siphon valves still leak from under the cover when sprinklers are turned on even though I replaced the washer. Could you give me some ideas on what could be causing this?
I have a similar set up to this, and my valve needs replaced. Can I get an anti-siphon valve to replace the whole set up or will only a converter valve work?
You can just buy the anti syphon valve saving you about 80 bucks, providing that the actuator is still in good shape. Make sure you buy the same manufacture so its compatible.
Hopefully someone can answer this. I've had two of these actuators now and in a week, they start to leak very slowly from the top of the screws and around the diaphragm even if the screws are tightened. Am I just getting bad units or is there something else that needs to be done?
@@dfelixrx7Thanks. Already fixed it over a year ago by replacing some parts but I can’t seem to remember what I bought. RUclips shows “1 year” for my comment but it must be rounding down.
Its hard to say how old. The good thing is that each of the valve bodies are made of brass ,they can withstand harsh elements. Thanks for stopping by !
DO YOU HAVE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR Brands you use for sprinkler valve? My gardener says ours needs replacing. He wants to charge $100 for valve and labor, but I don't know what brand part he is using. He also wants to charge $150 for a new timer. We are in the SF Valley!!!!
Great video! I have a 3/4 brass anti-siphon that is about 5 years old. Both the anti-Siphon cap and the valve don't want to unscrew with my channel locks, but I'm not really putting a lot of force in as the underlying pipe is 1/2 PVC on both sides and I don't want to snap it. Any hints or tricks for unscrewing these when they are stubborn like mine?
I'm having the same problem. Did you figure out any tricks for taking off the cap. I'm using a lot of pressure with the channel locks and it's not budging. I don't want the PVC to snap either.
flipsk8mw not yet. I’ve tried spraying some different lubricants / anti-corrosives under there but the threads are hard to get to. Also tried a bunch of tapping - so far no dice.
These parts tend to take a "set" over time, and can take a little force to loosen. Try using a crescent wrench vs. Channel-Locks and see if that helps.
Use a second pair of large Channel Lock style pliers held horizontally on the valve base as you turn the actuator/antisiphon cap with the first pair of pliers. During re-assembly, use plumbers silicone grease on the threads. This won't cause leaking and may make disassembly easier next time.
I can't unscrew the top part of the valve. I tried with a helper and even tried to hammer on the wrench (while holding the base with another wrench). The darn thing wouldn't budge and I am afraid to apply more force for the fear of breaking the plastic pipes it's connected to. Any suggestions? Do you have any videos showing how to replace the entire thing including the base?
I am sure I am a little late, but I had to lightly hit the brass below the actuator to try to shake some of the residual inside the threads (my valves are very old). After that it came off.
@@gregkogan7573 thank you for your reply! I will keep this in mind for the future. I ended up fashioning an extension out of PVC pipe and using it as a lever to turn the wrench (while my helper was holding the base with another wrench). My valve was probably as old as yours.
@@TwinHomeExperts If you clean out the diaphram contact surface, the hole, new bleed screw, gasket I have a 100% success. So Its worthwhile to just buy the rebuild kit 10 against 60 bucks. I replace actuator only when there is hole, crack seat.
Both ways are viable options depending on your situation. If you're paying for a service call and a technician's time the cost of rebuilding will likely be much more than replacing. In the case of that first actuator, the leaking appeared to come from a crack in the solenoid stem, a part that isn't included in the rebuild kit. You'd need to wait for that replacement part and to schedule another service call. If you're a property owner or facilities manager, you have more flexibility to schedule downtime and service activity. I like to keep at least one working actuator and a couple rebuild kits handy so I can swap a bad one out quickly and rebuild the old one (or get a replacement if it's too far gone) at my convenience.
Got right to the point, clear, concise, and very helpful! Thank you!
Excellent video and explanation, thank you very much! I am glad I watched your video before doing anything, otherwise I would have bought a complete valve set instead of just the actuator valve replacement. Completed the repair as instructed in your video, works great!
Are the valves still good?
Thanks for the excellent lesson on replacing the actuator, it fixed the problem and now it's working perfectly. My plants thank you too :).
AWESOME ! Thank you so much for your feedback. ;)
I have 6 of these to do in the morning. Thank you for teaching me.
Its our pleasure. Thanks for your review,
Thanks. But what if you DO need to remove the body of the assembly? The front nut is obvious, but the back one isn't a nut; the hex shape is molded into the body. Do you just spin the whole body off (assuming that there's enough clearance on each side to do so), or loosen the PVC thing that's below it? My system looks like it has a PVC ring with ribs on it underneath the rear of the valve body, and it's quite hard to access.
Excellent illustration
Best video I’ve seen !
Great video even 6 years later. You mentioned to check the valve seat with your finger before installing the new actuator. I'd like to see a video on what to do if the seat isn't perfect. Mine are brass Champion valves and are probably repairable, but I haven't found the right tool or techniques to resurface the seat.
In that case it would be best to replace the whole valve,
Subscribed. Great vids. This helped me as I was ready to hire someone and thought I had to rebuild the valve, or cut new pipe in. No wonder I got quoted so low for a replacement.
Your feedback means a lot. Thank you!
Perfect, Thank you. It has been some time since I did this and your video will help me do it again.
Awesome !
Perfect step-by-step explanation!
Thank you!
Hello,Im assuming the San fernando Valley ? If so,Larry & Joes plumbing supply or Ferguson. You can google them to see which location is closer.
Hope this Helped
Great video thank you! I have brass orbit valves 57065 model number and one is leaking badly I have been unable to get the cap gasket off to replace the gaskets and diaphragm. Any suggestions on how unscrew them?
Thanks for sharing this video was very helpful with my project.
Glad it was helpful ! Thank you for your feedback.
Thanks for this video, home I purchased has the same leaking valves and glad I watched this. Otherwise I would have bought new valve bodies without really needing to.
Thanks for the video! Suuuuper helpful!
Nice video. It would have been helpful to review the purpose of the valve on the new actuator that was leaking at first and the other valve handle on the actuator.
YOu showed it pretty good but you are supposed to remove the anti-siphon portion before the adaptor part. also tell them that you should hold the valve it self so the PVC pipe doesnt break... But you guys do great work.
Nice thanks for posting!
this can also be done if the valve doesn't shut of the water correct
Do you have any videos showing how to attach the lower part? Mine required pulling the whole thing off because it was seized.
I don't think there should be any leakage from the anti-siphon valve cover, unless the washer is damaged - right? Also, they go on clockwise - not counterclockwise. And shouldn't there be grease caps around the wire nuts?
Leaking should occur only when water shuts off , Yes ,,clockwise to install .
i would agree grease caps wold be good practice.
Thanks so much for your feedback,
@@TwinHomeExperts My anti-siphon valves still leak from under the cover when sprinklers are turned on even though I replaced the washer. Could you give me some ideas on what could be causing this?
I have a similar set up to this, and my valve needs replaced. Can I get an anti-siphon valve to replace the whole set up or will only a converter valve work?
You can just buy the anti syphon valve saving you about 80 bucks, providing that the actuator is still in good shape. Make sure you buy the same manufacture so its compatible.
Hopefully someone can answer this. I've had two of these actuators now and in a week, they start to leak very slowly from the top of the screws and around the diaphragm even if the screws are tightened. Am I just getting bad units or is there something else that needs to be done?
Sounds like your pressure is exceeding 150 PSI.
Have you checked water pressure that feeds these valves?
Forgot to add, your water pressure feeding these valves need to be at 85 to no more than 120psi.
I have a leak coming out of that twist off cap. Is that just a simple gasket replacement or do I need to replace the washer at 4:16?
Leak when sprinklers are activated?
Spin off
Flush and replace parts.
Hand tighten when done and give a small turn with some channel locks.
@@dfelixrx7Thanks. Already fixed it over a year ago by replacing some parts but I can’t seem to remember what I bought. RUclips shows “1 year” for my comment but it must be rounding down.
Those valves are old when was the sprinkler system built?
Its hard to say how old. The good thing is that each of the valve bodies are made of brass ,they can withstand harsh elements. Thanks for stopping by !
1989
My dang backflow won't budge. And it's placed where I can't get a good turn on it. 😭 help me!!
DO YOU HAVE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR Brands you use for sprinkler valve? My gardener says ours needs replacing. He wants to charge $100 for valve and labor, but I don't know what brand part he is using. He also wants to charge $150 for a new timer. We are in the SF Valley!!!!
Thank you for the great video. I have some leaving plastic valves. Where do I purchase the superior brass valves? How much it cost ?
Thanks for posting! I would call your local Ferguson pipe and supply and then compare it with home depot.
The Twin Home Experts, thank you!
Perpendicular means 90 degrees from the pipe. You should have said “parallel”. 😉
Thanks, very informative.
SUPER!
I got a new brass valve, but am having trouble removing, loosening the screw on top of anti siphon.
@@bobcarley827 I would have to see photos to help you. support@twinhomeexperts.com
These look a lot easier to do than my Rainbirds.
Great video! I have a 3/4 brass anti-siphon that is about 5 years old. Both the anti-Siphon cap and the valve don't want to unscrew with my channel locks, but I'm not really putting a lot of force in as the underlying pipe is 1/2 PVC on both sides and I don't want to snap it. Any hints or tricks for unscrewing these when they are stubborn like mine?
I'm having the same problem. Did you figure out any tricks for taking off the cap. I'm using a lot of pressure with the channel locks and it's not budging. I don't want the PVC to snap either.
flipsk8mw not yet. I’ve tried spraying some different lubricants / anti-corrosives under there but the threads are hard to get to. Also tried a bunch of tapping - so far no dice.
These parts tend to take a "set" over time, and can take a little force to loosen. Try using a crescent wrench vs. Channel-Locks and see if that helps.
Use a second pair of large Channel Lock style pliers held horizontally on the valve base as you turn the actuator/antisiphon cap with the first pair of pliers. During re-assembly, use plumbers silicone grease on the threads. This won't cause leaking and may make disassembly easier next time.
I can't unscrew the top part of the valve. I tried with a helper and even tried to hammer on the wrench (while holding the base with another wrench). The darn thing wouldn't budge and I am afraid to apply more force for the fear of breaking the plastic pipes it's connected to. Any suggestions? Do you have any videos showing how to replace the entire thing including the base?
if you take pipe wrenches and slip long steel tubes on the handles then you should be able to remove them easily.
don't have any vids yet.
I am sure I am a little late, but I had to lightly hit the brass below the actuator to try to shake some of the residual inside the threads (my valves are very old). After that it came off.
@@gregkogan7573 thank you for your reply! I will keep this in mind for the future. I ended up fashioning an extension out of PVC pipe and using it as a lever to turn the wrench (while my helper was holding the base with another wrench). My valve was probably as old as yours.
I heat the valve body with a torch and then find it come off much more easily
where to buy those valves in the valley ?
Ferguson pipe and supply
Can you repair the actuators? Save a few bucks?
Not recommended. You can buy plastic actuator to save some money.
I have been repairing my own champion valves for 20 years. Kits are readily available online. Much cheaper and easy to do.
Awesome! 👍
His use of the were perpendicular is incorrect. Perpendicular is a right angle intersection
Why not jus rebuild this actuators ? The rebuilding kit is only $9
Certainly a option . Labor intensive and there is no guarantee .
Great question . Thank you !
Its a option for sure. Most of the time rebuild dont work so easy, from our experience
@@TwinHomeExperts If you clean out the diaphram contact surface, the hole, new bleed screw, gasket I have a 100% success. So Its worthwhile to just buy the rebuild kit 10 against 60 bucks. I replace actuator only when there is hole, crack seat.
Both ways are viable options depending on your situation.
If you're paying for a service call and a technician's time the cost of rebuilding will likely be much more than replacing. In the case of that first actuator, the leaking appeared to come from a crack in the solenoid stem, a part that isn't included in the rebuild kit. You'd need to wait for that replacement part and to schedule another service call.
If you're a property owner or facilities manager, you have more flexibility to schedule downtime and service activity. I like to keep at least one working actuator and a couple rebuild kits handy so I can swap a bad one out quickly and rebuild the old one (or get a replacement if it's too far gone) at my convenience.
do you guy's have a Instagram?
No ,we should though right ?
Hold the pipe before you yank it, handyman
Run circles around you Karen! 💪
@@TwinHomeExperts and you the guy that talks down on every other plumber before you? You’re just an influencer lol