I haven't really looked too hard at the auto side of things until recently, but I have spent decades riding and building fast motorcycles. The cooler air is not lower because it sinks; convection takes a lot of time unless the temperature differences are _very_ large. The idea is to be closer to fresh air being taken in from outside, which will be cooler than air that has traveled further into the engine bay and mixed with the hotter air under the hood. The enclosure should help with that, but as you noted getting closer to the fresh air is probably more important. The enclosure should also cause a higher pressure area, creating a quasi-ram air situation, but only while moving at higher speeds. My question is this: how does that shield affect the airflow through the entire engine bay that should be evacuating the hot air trapped under the hood?
I like thinking questions!!! Need a wind tunnel and several under-hood sensor to be 100% sure but a LOT of air flows through the condensor and radiator assembly right into the engine bay where it likely goes under the car by the firewall. There are also paths on the right and left of the shield for cool air to enter and do the same into the engine bay as well as a small gap under the air intake above the radiator.
Agreed 👍, although I'm not so sure the LS3 will benefit much from it so long as you fab up a quick shield on your own and save a few bucks or by theirs. They do make a kit for the LS2s as well, but you have to convert it to a card style MAF I believe.
I run the vararam cai combined with the aeroforce gauge pod that integrates the iat temps. Whatever ambient temp is outside im usually right at it +/- 1 degree. Plus the vararam reaches farther down into the front grill to create a true "ram air" effect at high speeds. Car pulls like a monster on top end. 08 ls3 car and have ran several 121 mph runs with a few 122 mph passes.
Vararam is a beast, just be careful of those deep puddles that pop up once every 20 years and if it's super hot where you live, you may need a bigger radiator would be my hunch as it does block a fair bit of flow.
@@Toys4Life Once every 20 years 😆. Read all about those horror stories before I got mine. Dyno numbers might not show it to be the best performer but you can't measure 100+ mph forced air on a dyno. My car picked up over 2 full mph by bolting this up. Its a true performer.
@@Toys4Life Biggest worries/complaints are usually huge puddle theory or the cutting of the factory shroud to install it. With your skills with tracing and a dremel yours would look awesome with a vararam. Now that you swapped to the card style maf id say you should do a video on testing with what you have and then a vararam. Would make for a fun video!
Veraram is definitely a C6 owner favorite. Dorman I think was a decent option until they triple their price, now it seems like the fast LSXR 102 is the best option for the money.
The C5 seats you have listed and from Amazon, would you also recommend getting the mounting brackets and bolts set as well? Or, will they fit on what's in the car currently? Have you done a video on this installation and if so please let me know. As usual your videos are fantastic and very informative.
@@Toys4Life I actually like my 2003 Z06 seats but to put new padding, bolster's and leather costs way more than I can afford at this time. However the seats you have listed look to be great seats and give me the support that I am looking for. Namely the rib and thigh area and lower back. They may not be powered seats but I can live with that. My passenger seat won't move at all anyway. If you get around to doing your C5 with the seats I look forward to the video on the install. If I get to it before you I'll let you know and possibly try to do a video on the install.
And l believe with pump E85 with at least a minimum 100 octane rating would allow you to increase the timing from 19 degrees to 22 degrees possibly a bit more will make the car much more snappy
My corvette C5 came with a Vortex ram intake in clear plastic which looks really good. Sucking in air from under the car is going to be much cooler than the engine compartment & also there is going to be a ram effect. What are your thoughts 🤔
Wow, you do quality work! Looks great!😊 My C5Z has an AFE brand dry filter that I made a foam outer wrap for. The wrap is made from a 2’x4’ red K & N 1/2” thick oiled foam material that has very little resistance but really stops the dirt! I’ve swapped out the wrap twice since making them and the dry filter still has no noticeable dust on it. The filter is tucked down into the nose of the car, which requires removing the duct attached to the maf sensor to get to the filter. I would suggest the owners of K&N cotton filters to check the inside of the duct for a coating of dust, as the oiled K&N cotton gauze filters are known for flowing lots of dirt with the high air flow😬. I might need a heat shield like you made for low speed times when the hot air isn’t being purged from the nose section. I don’t have one now since retiring, but the trick would be to clip a remote temp sensor onto the air filter and with the digital display receiver in the car, monitor the air temp at speed and in traffic.
I'm new to the C5 and no expert (even youtube expert) but it seems that my 04 Z06 ducts the air from the bumper, over the radiator shroud, past the aircleaner, around the engine and then out. If this stream is blocked does it not leave only the radiator airflow? Not disrespecting the mod because it looks awesome.
Appreciate the comment!! The lower front air dam creates high pressure and its job is to force air through the condenser/radiator assembly which than exits directly towards the engine block. I believe that creates a bit of high pressure in the engine bay and forces it to exit a little through the side fender vents but mostly through the engine bay by being forced down the firewall and under the car. That is how I believe the flow works (:-)
@@Toys4Life thank you for all of your experience. Coming from the vintage and off road scene it is a big jump for me moving on to my 04 z06. I absolutely love your content. You produce the best C5 info on RUclips.
Higher than I would like, but I'm greedy I want the intake air to be 5° warmer or less than ambient coming into my engine. That engine bay if you let it sit there we'll get up to 170 180°.
If your wanting to cool intake temperature according to some testing on RUclips with E85 they claimed 55-70 degrees drop in the intake temperature 102mm throttle body you have to get a intake because the stock LS3 is restricted or will need to be modified to work with a 102mm throttle body l put a sheet metal intake on because l hate plastic ZL1 fuel pump injectors with a flex fuel kit and tune should make a pretty good difference l have this same setup on a 2011 Camaro SS it has a GM Performance LS3 495 horsepower crate engine it weighs at least 500 pounds more than your C6 3920 with me in it with a Circle D 4200rpm lock up converter in a built 6L80e auto transmission with stock 3.27 gears best 7.22 at 96mph in the eighth mile 1.70 60 foot times and car drives like stock after 40-50mph at part throttle when converter goes into lockup in 5th gear this setup should put your C6 in the high 6s in the eighth mile easy while being pretty close to stock even idles at 700rpm in gear with a ever so slight chop and pulls strong to 6700rpm even bigger gains if you increase compression to 13 to 1 my car has CNC ported and milled LS3 heads only 11 to 1 from 10 7 stock even your stock LS3 with a intake 102mm throttle body ZL1 injectors and fuel pump on E85 with a flex fuel kit and a tune no it's not cheap but should make a very noticeable difference I'm running 26 degrees timing car has very wicked throttle response and does 124mph at 6700rpm in 3rd gear like your technical videos on the LS3
Would something like this possibly work for the C5? I currently have a dual intake setup, and it sits low, but there is no shield covering the top of it.
on an unmodified C5, what would be the value to simply add the home made custom heat shield you show? Does it really only do much when at idle or slow traffic conditions? or any vale at speeds such as 45mph or 70mph?
I think it helps for everything except for sustained speeds of over 40 mph. In this situation there's enough cool air coming in to keep temperatures down.
Hi, very informative videos. What is your opinion of the Vortex ram air induction system? I have one on My 99 C5 FRC, seems to be just like you're describing for your C6. The air filter seems to be collecting cool are right from the bottom of where the air is coming in. Curious in your opinion. I watch your videos all the timeThanks
Your comment regarding concerns over driving the C6 in deep water is funny. I mean, how deep are we talking about? Shouldn't every Corvette driver be concerned about "deep" water? I guess the LS3 OEM intake could survive a foot or a foot & a half of standing water, but when/why/who would be doing such a thing? If it floods where you live, then maybe NOT driving the Corvette during a flood would be advisable. If one is out driving the Corvette around and THEN it floods, I'd seriously question the driver's ability to plan road trips and suggest perhaps they seek higher, drier ground rather than submarine their C6 back home. Cheers.
I had 2 different aftermarket intake on my ls3 c6 and both had horrible maf noise I couldn't tune around for my liking. the card style maf is horrible for it. I ended up going to a stock ls7 intake and filter. cleaned up the maf signal but probably cost me some hp. I do have the air devider they sell, that looks kinda like what you made. it seems OK but honestly the intake air Temps are sitll to high. the whole intake air system is just horrible on these cars. my ls yukon takes air from the fender and has much lower air intake Temps. it's kinda annoying haha.
Ya, If you crack open the bottom of that front lower area opeen, the part throttle/ high speed air turbulence destroys the maf signal. Appreciate your comment and thoughts!
@@Toys4Life you know what I thought about doing and never got around to it is my car has nnp exhaust. I was thinking if I could tap into that output to run a servo or even a cheap vacuum valve to open and close a little flap in that plastic under the air filter, plus my box that's kinda like what you made. I might be able to add a little pressure air in there at wot then needed but close when not so it doesn't buck because of the maf signal.
Mine has the K&N style filter. I drilled two holes straight down into the plastic shroud below the filter. Where there is a recess for the plastic trim fasteners. The direction of the recess should not allow water in during rain driving, but it should let ambient air in right under the filter without messing up the radiator shroud geometry.
Soon as I bought my 2007 3LT Z51 new, I took off the stock air cleaner and put on a KnN The KnN filter sits low in the front end hopefully is getting cooler air then being up higher. You gotta let it breathe !
Well I added a k&n intake filter a X pipe and a zr1 bumper too my base 6.0 just recently installed a chip tuner,my temps are running 5-8 degrees cooler and the throttle response is impressive,, more mods too come,,, like your videos...
I haven't really looked too hard at the auto side of things until recently, but I have spent decades riding and building fast motorcycles. The cooler air is not lower because it sinks; convection takes a lot of time unless the temperature differences are _very_ large. The idea is to be closer to fresh air being taken in from outside, which will be cooler than air that has traveled further into the engine bay and mixed with the hotter air under the hood. The enclosure should help with that, but as you noted getting closer to the fresh air is probably more important. The enclosure should also cause a higher pressure area, creating a quasi-ram air situation, but only while moving at higher speeds.
My question is this: how does that shield affect the airflow through the entire engine bay that should be evacuating the hot air trapped under the hood?
A good solution is Vette Air. A must have
I like thinking questions!!! Need a wind tunnel and several under-hood sensor to be 100% sure but a LOT of air flows through the condensor and radiator assembly right into the engine bay where it likely goes under the car by the firewall. There are also paths on the right and left of the shield for cool air to enter and do the same into the engine bay as well as a small gap under the air intake above the radiator.
I always enjoy your videos and I always learn something new.
Well done. Another great video.
We can't read the black on black notes. You gotta fix that for us pls.
Timestamp please so I know exactly what you are talking about. Thanks!!
The Halltech Killer B MF103 is a great addition to a LS3 or LS7 with 0 tuning needed
Agreed 👍, although I'm not so sure the LS3 will benefit much from it so long as you fab up a quick shield on your own and save a few bucks or by theirs. They do make a kit for the LS2s as well, but you have to convert it to a card style MAF I believe.
I run the vararam cai combined with the aeroforce gauge pod that integrates the iat temps. Whatever ambient temp is outside im usually right at it +/- 1 degree. Plus the vararam reaches farther down into the front grill to create a true "ram air" effect at high speeds. Car pulls like a monster on top end. 08 ls3 car and have ran several 121 mph runs with a few 122 mph passes.
Vararam is a beast, just be careful of those deep puddles that pop up once every 20 years and if it's super hot where you live, you may need a bigger radiator would be my hunch as it does block a fair bit of flow.
@@Toys4Life Once every 20 years 😆. Read all about those horror stories before I got mine. Dyno numbers might not show it to be the best performer but you can't measure 100+ mph forced air on a dyno. My car picked up over 2 full mph by bolting this up. Its a true performer.
Oh, I believe it. It's pretty much unanimous -It makes power. If it sucked we would know about it.
@@Toys4Life Biggest worries/complaints are usually huge puddle theory or the cutting of the factory shroud to install it. With your skills with tracing and a dremel yours would look awesome with a vararam. Now that you swapped to the card style maf id say you should do a video on testing with what you have and then a vararam. Would make for a fun video!
The vararam air intake is the best bang for the buck, the Dorman ls2 is a good upgrade for the intake manifold, it flows the same as a fast 92
Veraram is definitely a C6 owner favorite. Dorman I think was a decent option until they triple their price, now it seems like the fast LSXR 102 is the best option for the money.
The C5 seats you have listed and from Amazon, would you also recommend getting the mounting brackets and bolts set as well? Or, will they fit on what's in the car currently? Have you done a video on this installation and if so please let me know. As usual your videos are fantastic and very informative.
I don't believe they fit on the stock mounts unfortunately. This mod is still on my mind to do to my C5, time will tell (:-)
@@Toys4Life I actually like my 2003 Z06 seats but to put new padding, bolster's and leather costs way more than I can afford at this time. However the seats you have listed look to be great seats and give me the support that I am looking for. Namely the rib and thigh area and lower back. They may not be powered seats but I can live with that. My passenger seat won't move at all anyway. If you get around to doing your C5 with the seats I look forward to the video on the install. If I get to it before you I'll let you know and possibly try to do a video on the install.
And l believe with pump E85 with at least a minimum 100 octane rating would allow you to increase the timing from 19 degrees to 22 degrees possibly a bit more will make the car much more snappy
Even the blend, bringing it up to E 34 and around 95 or 6 octane helps a lot when is super hot.
90 mm throttle bodies are rated to 737 hp and some opinions rate the ls 90mm tb to 900 hp, Regards
Good stuff ty
My corvette C5 came with a Vortex ram intake in clear plastic which looks really good. Sucking in air from under the car is going to be much cooler than the engine compartment & also there is going to be a ram effect. What are your thoughts 🤔
As long as the filter is clean and in good shape, it's probably a good setup, but I haven't had one personally.
Wow, you do quality work! Looks great!😊 My C5Z has an AFE brand dry filter that I made a foam outer wrap for. The wrap is made from a 2’x4’ red K & N 1/2” thick oiled foam material that has very little resistance but really stops the dirt! I’ve swapped out the wrap twice since making them and the dry filter still has no noticeable dust on it. The filter is tucked down into the nose of the car, which requires removing the duct attached to the maf sensor to get to the filter. I would suggest the owners of K&N cotton filters to check the inside of the duct for a coating of dust, as the oiled K&N cotton gauze filters are known for flowing lots of dirt with the high air flow😬. I might need a heat shield like you made for low speed times when the hot air isn’t being purged from the nose section. I don’t have one now since retiring, but the trick would be to clip a remote temp sensor onto the air filter and with the digital display receiver in the car, monitor the air temp at speed and in traffic.
I might procure that very item and do some additional testing. Good idea !!
I'm new to the C5 and no expert (even youtube expert) but it seems that my 04 Z06 ducts the air from the bumper, over the radiator shroud, past the aircleaner, around the engine and then out. If this stream is blocked does it not leave only the radiator airflow? Not disrespecting the mod because it looks awesome.
Appreciate the comment!! The lower front air dam creates high pressure and its job is to force air through the condenser/radiator assembly which than exits directly towards the engine block. I believe that creates a bit of high pressure in the engine bay and forces it to exit a little through the side fender vents but mostly through the engine bay by being forced down the firewall and under the car. That is how I believe the flow works (:-)
@@Toys4Life thank you for all of your experience. Coming from the vintage and off road scene it is a big jump for me moving on to my 04 z06. I absolutely love your content. You produce the best C5 info on RUclips.
Is your temperature still high when sitting in traffic
Higher than I would like, but I'm greedy I want the intake air to be 5° warmer or less than ambient coming into my engine. That engine bay if you let it sit there we'll get up to 170 180°.
Which exhaust is on your c6 ?
Corsa sport I believe. I love it. Not sure I would buy it new, due to the cost. But it sounds great.
If your wanting to cool intake temperature according to some testing on RUclips with E85 they claimed 55-70 degrees drop in the intake temperature 102mm throttle body you have to get a intake because the stock LS3 is restricted or will need to be modified to work with a 102mm throttle body l put a sheet metal intake on because l hate plastic ZL1 fuel pump injectors with a flex fuel kit and tune should make a pretty good difference l have this same setup on a 2011 Camaro SS it has a GM Performance LS3 495 horsepower crate engine it weighs at least 500 pounds more than your C6 3920 with me in it with a Circle D 4200rpm lock up converter in a built 6L80e auto transmission with stock 3.27 gears best 7.22 at 96mph in the eighth mile 1.70 60 foot times and car drives like stock after 40-50mph at part throttle when converter goes into lockup in 5th gear this setup should put your C6 in the high 6s in the eighth mile easy while being pretty close to stock even idles at 700rpm in gear with a ever so slight chop and pulls strong to 6700rpm even bigger gains if you increase compression to 13 to 1 my car has CNC ported and milled LS3 heads only 11 to 1 from 10 7 stock even your stock LS3 with a intake 102mm throttle body ZL1 injectors and fuel pump on E85 with a flex fuel kit and a tune no it's not cheap but should make a very noticeable difference I'm running 26 degrees timing car has very wicked throttle response and does 124mph at 6700rpm in 3rd gear like your technical videos on the LS3
Would something like this possibly work for the C5? I currently have a dual intake setup, and it sits low, but there is no shield covering the top of it.
I think so, just get creative and give it a try 😁
on an unmodified C5, what would be the value to simply add the home made custom heat shield you show? Does it really only do much when at idle or slow traffic conditions? or any vale at speeds such as 45mph or 70mph?
I think it helps for everything except for sustained speeds of over 40 mph. In this situation there's enough cool air coming in to keep temperatures down.
Hi, very informative videos. What is your opinion of the Vortex ram air induction system?
I have one on My 99 C5 FRC, seems to be just like you're describing for your C6.
The air filter seems to be collecting cool are right from the bottom of where the air is coming in. Curious in your opinion. I watch your videos all the timeThanks
No firsthand experience with it but if the air filter element is clean and it was properly installed I think it's probably decent 👍
Any chance on testing LS9?
I'd love to, bring yours over and we'll let her rip 😁
Your comment regarding concerns over driving the C6 in deep water is funny. I mean, how deep are we talking about? Shouldn't every Corvette driver be concerned about "deep" water? I guess the LS3 OEM intake could survive a foot or a foot & a half of standing water, but when/why/who would be doing such a thing? If it floods where you live, then maybe NOT driving the Corvette during a flood would be advisable. If one is out driving the Corvette around and THEN it floods, I'd seriously question the driver's ability to plan road trips and suggest perhaps they seek higher, drier ground rather than submarine their C6 back home. Cheers.
Agree, if it's raining, take the Tahoe.
I had 2 different aftermarket intake on my ls3 c6 and both had horrible maf noise I couldn't tune around for my liking. the card style maf is horrible for it. I ended up going to a stock ls7 intake and filter. cleaned up the maf signal but probably cost me some hp. I do have the air devider they sell, that looks kinda like what you made. it seems OK but honestly the intake air Temps are sitll to high. the whole intake air system is just horrible on these cars. my ls yukon takes air from the fender and has much lower air intake Temps. it's kinda annoying haha.
Ya, If you crack open the bottom of that front lower area opeen, the part throttle/ high speed air turbulence destroys the maf signal. Appreciate your comment and thoughts!
@@Toys4Life you know what I thought about doing and never got around to it is my car has nnp exhaust. I was thinking if I could tap into that output to run a servo or even a cheap vacuum valve to open and close a little flap in that plastic under the air filter, plus my box that's kinda like what you made. I might be able to add a little pressure air in there at wot then needed but close when not so it doesn't buck because of the maf signal.
Mine has the K&N style filter. I drilled two holes straight down into the plastic shroud below the filter. Where there is a recess for the plastic trim fasteners. The direction of the recess should not allow water in during rain driving, but it should let ambient air in right under the filter without messing up the radiator shroud geometry.
Soon as I bought my 2007 3LT Z51 new, I took off the stock air cleaner and put on a KnN The KnN filter sits low in the front end hopefully is getting cooler air then being up higher. You gotta let it breathe !
Good move for sure 😁
Well I added a k&n intake filter a X pipe and a zr1 bumper too my base 6.0 just recently installed a chip tuner,my temps are running 5-8 degrees cooler and the throttle response is impressive,, more mods too come,,, like your videos...
Wouldn’t do chip tunes