21 Horsepower C6 Corvette Increase (Easiest HP I've Ever Found!)
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- When modifying a C5 or C6 Corvette for more Horsepower, it pays to start by making sure it is mechanically sound and then evaluating how it is running on the current tune - even if it is a STOCK Tune. That's exactly what I did with the C6 and it led me to an easy 21Horsepower Gain!
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Great video! and reinforces my belief I should never, ever attempt to tune my C5. I just threw in that Diablo Sport 93 octane tune, fabricated a cold air duct through the license plate plug and blew out the air filter with my leaf blower. I spent the rest of my budget on tires, wheels and a kick butt stereo with back up camera.
Connect a computer to a car? I am smart enough to know NOT to attempt that! Admire the guys who can. That stuff is witchcraft!
Keep 'em coming, Toys!
Real good info, i always put best gas and synthetic fluids as well. Sadly too many people are cheap and neglect their cars:(
These HP tuner videos are fantastic, nice easy bites and explained well. It's been some time since I've looked forward to videos as much as I have yours. Thanks for the work!
Thank you, I greatly appreciate your feedback!
Your work is good and easy to follow.
I'm impressed with what happens to our toys as they age. All a part of understanding these great machines.
Thank you very much!
Thank you for taking your time to help other Vette owners, as well as providing so much beneficial information. Great content! Please keep it coming. All the best..
I appreciate that!
Fantastic information on not only tuning, but what can be achieved with better fuel. Thank you!
Wow! Thank you bud!! Really great video, very informative!! Thank you for all you do for this Vette community!
Appreciate the kind words, sir!
I appreciate this video. I too have a C6, but it's the LS3, and a TA with an LS1 so we're in the same boat. I am learning to tune only to expand on where I am post tune from my tuner. I didn't have a wideband O2 sensor but I have one coming in.
Excellent video!
I see you have a C5 banner behind the C5…Uh?, You need a C6 banner behind the C6. Come on now,
you gotta represent us C6er’s too.😅
I went thru exactly the same thing except I was on the dyno. A simpler fix was NGK TR6 spark plugs believe it or not. I was removing timing & power was dropping, swapped the plugs & started rolling the timing back in....that simple. Posted in HPT & the Corvette Forum years ago the results. NGK TR6 plug is a well documented solution.
100% agree and It's funny you mention it. It's actually the first thing I did when I got the car, I threw out the iridiums and put in ngk TR6s which is what my supercharged C5 uses with no knock. Copper takes the heat better or so most of us believe.
I'm about the same elevation, just over 1000'. It was several years back I did this, also the fuel quality might be factor although it would have been Shell 91 top tier. I just went back looking @ your logs, KR is showing up in lower gears. That's a light load compared to a fourth gear dyno ramp run. PE is around 11.5, should be very safe. Still 11.5 @ high rpm past peak torque highest load where the fuel curve could start to be leaner. I've always been suspicious of overly sensitive LS2 knock tables, if you look @ the multiplier threshold tables for particular rpm windows it may make sense. My plan was to get back on the dyno this season & verify my theory, other things got in the way.
@@daleblock3974 Is there any disadvantage to going with the colder plug other than them not lasting as long/being more susceptible to carbon buildup?
@@nowayjose596 I've never seen carbon build up, they are also very inexpensive. I do not hesitate to cut them up if I'm wanting to check & verify my AFR reading.
@@daleblock3974 Thanks for the reply. I'll start seriously getting into tuning in the near future and that gives me another variable to play around with.
Great info as always! I'll be filling up with 94 from now on. I also start using those octane booster bottles in the future
94 might be good enough. I would have it scanned on 94 if that's what you have available and see if you have any issues with knock or not. The bottles can get expensive, and if they're not needed for your situation then you're just throwing money away.
@@Toys4Life Excellent thank you! I will be getting my first proper dyno tune next season so I will just keep running with the 94 until then.
Awesome video T4L!
I've been looking for a nice C5 or C6 for about a year now. Thankfully the prices are starting to get more realistic again. Still with that said I don't know how in the world you got such a great deal on your C6! Very jealous....
Thanks for doing all the research and testing on these amazing cars
Appreciate the feedback, sir!!
Good stuff as usual. You could use the compression as a reason for more cam. Later intake valve closing point will bleed a little dynamic compression. In my way of thinking this engine is begging for more cam.
Great suggestion & I agree that it would respond to a bigger cam and if I was a roll racer I would absolutely do that or supercharge it or both. So far I mainly street drive the car with an occasional auto-cross event which has me in the low rpm area a lot - so I will hold off on that.
93 Octane, LOL Back 50yrs ago my first ‘Vette (‘70 LS6 warmed over) ran on SUNOCO 260 Or at times Avgas, for shits and giggles!
Finding BP 93 around where I live is a bit like finding Hen’s Teeth.
Getting closer to my “ Best Before Date” I’m happy with my stock ‘07 C6 Conv.
Though I find your Vid interesting & informative.
I love your videos! I have ls2 with diablosport 93 tune here in Finland. I have also oem air intake with open shroud. The canned tune made a big difference in power. I live about 300ft above sea level and our summers are not that warm you have there in US. Keep on good work!👍
…and by the way we have always at least 5% of ethanol mixed in gas. 91 octane has 10%.
I appreciate the comment, love to hear from overseas viewers!!
Excellent video as always.....thank you for taking the time to make them....easy to understand and comprehensive.. like you I have a c5 6 speed and a 86 Gt fiero with a 3800 sc with the 4 speed.
There is something about the GM plastic (:-). Appreciate the feedback.!!
Great vid as always! I’ll be reaching out again probably next spring (maybe this fall) after I replace that PITA check valve.
Looking forward to it, sir!
Another excellent C6 LS3 video. Just like with his C5 videos, these C6 videos are the best too. Thanks again for all your dedication to the C5 and C6 generations.
Thank you very much!
It’s a Ls2
Thanks for going threw hpt I'm sure it's gonna help a lot of guys out, now I gotta math a pid for hp thanks 😅
No problem 👍
The LS2 timing tables are very conservative. Peak timing is only ~22° Dont forget about the timing tables for IAT, once the IAT gets to 113° the ecm pulls 7° of timing even without seeing any knock, its an automatic feature. You can soften that table a bunch. Log the air mass also because when my LS2 was on the dyno, it was seeing 16:1 AFR at WOT, and would randomly drop to 12:1. The MAF was bad. It drove fine and didnt throw a MIL though. We put a new MAF in it and it was fine. My tuner put 26° of advance in my LS2 with headers, exhaust, FAST 102 and a small cam and it had no knock retard on 91 octane 🤷♂️ and thats at 1,200 ft elevation and 100° ambient temp... So definitely use a wideband and make sure your AFR isnt lean due to a faulty MAF or other issue.
My GTI has a 93 octane tune and even running 91 + VP Octanium wasnt enough to stop the KR. I ended up running 2 gallons E85, 8 gallons 91 and 3 oz Octanium for a 95+ octane E25 and that finally let the car have all the timing. Even up here at 6,000 ft elevation northeast of Flagstaff where i live now, 91 + Octanium still shows KR which is curious since the car has lost 6-7 mph in the 1/4 due to the air.
Thanks for you detailed comment - much appreciated. I am itching to get to the track (or dyno) and start tuning the ignition advance with the 95/96 octane E30 fuel and will have my WBO2 sensor screwed into the intermediate tube bung to ensure I am in the mid/upper 12's to 1 AFR. I haver heard 26 degrees before and drop it down a bit at peak torque - then back up as well for these cars. Thank you!
I have a LS3, C6, I always use Shell V-Power 93 octane. I also have access to a gas station that sells Sunoco ultra 100, but its crazy expensive.
Pretty sure 93 is just fine for the LS3!
awesome content, Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
VERY interesting! Thanks for the video
Glad you liked it!
I like you am in Minnesota and I run 92 or 93 octane. Word of caution...My LS 2 C6 broke a valve spring at 38K, bent the intake valve and push rod. Caused a fire in the intake manifold! Those yellow springs are known to have issues, especially when the engine sits like ours do here over the winter. Engine builder told me it will weaken the spring sitting in the same position for extended periods of time. BTW I like the C7 headlights. I have them too.
Thanks for sharing
The most common cause of detonation is the stock air tubing leaks at the band clamps which are pinch style. The MAF sensor is distal to the throttle body and bypass air gets by unmetered causing a lean condition. Get rid of those do a band clamp that screw style and use silicone caulking to seal each connection. After doing this you'll probably be able to go back to 87 octane and have more power, no knocking. See ya on Corvette Forum!
The c5 has the airbridge between the MAF and TB with the airbirdge made of plastic tube and 2 unions (one at each end)- so I can see where that might leak. The C6 LS2 has the MAF connected directly to the TB with a rubber coupler so I do not think that has anything to do with the LS2 KR issue. 0:04 Agree?
@@Toys4Life Hey man love your videos! Not sure about this on a C5 with a supercharger, But I moved my MAF up past the air bridge to right in front of the throttle body, about 3 inches away from the TB with a reducer hose. They talk about it on the forum, you can search "C5 Blackwing CAI with Relocated MAF" and see what I am talking about. They say it will give you more accurate readings for intake air temps. There are actually several different threads on the subject. They also recommend "clocking" the MAF 90 degrees to line up with the butterfly in the TB as well. If you end up trying it, maybe you could do a vid on your retune as well!
@@SicilianC5That's interesting, I'll have to do some more reading on that. I have a 99 with the Callaway Honker CAI and it also relocates the MAF (and IAT) closer to the TB. I looked at my MAF readings and LTFT at idle for the first time the other day and they were 7.3 g/s and -10% respectively. That's a higher MAF reading than you'd expect for a 5.7L engine and with the negative fuel trims suggest that it is overreporting the amount of incoming air. I switched the MAF with another I happened to have and got the same results (both had been de-screened, though) so now I'm wondering if that is a result of relocating the MAF (and/or the de-screening).
Thank you for your videos! I always learn SO much! I was using 87 a while ago in my C5Z, but I think I’ll bump it up to at least the 89 octane. 91 is like $5.80 a gallon up here near Seattle. 😬😳 (and we have a refinery 40 miles from here!) My elevation is 240 ft.
Appreciate the comment!! I bet you have a lot of state taxes added??
@@Toys4Life yup 😢
like most performance decisions, there are a lot of trade offs and priorities to consider. I run a street car, so tuning for wide open throttle is not needed, and might compromise optimal efficiency where I normally run the machine ,which is inside the design perimeters. Still it is always good to know one's options and potentially useful details , just in case.
Part throttle tuning is controlled by the cars computer and will keep the AF ratio at 14.7 to one regardless of how you tune your WOT fueling. WOT goes into open loop and ignores the O2 sensors.
We used to have Sunoco here in ontario, they had Ultra 94 and I ran that. Unfortunately, Sunoco disappeared and became PetroCanada, a few stations still carry it but very few.
That's too bad - 94 would be close to perfect I think!
Thank you
Welcome!
Great video! Are you able to determine which cylinders are experiencing the knock? You’re probably familiar with the differences in the steam port plumbing differences between the various LS based engines. But if not, the LS1 has steam ports on all 4 corners of the heads, while LS6 and later engines only have have the front ports vented. Not sure about the LS2 but some believe that problems with piston and ring land failure in the rear cylinders of LS6 engines, or later LS1’s is due to hot spots resulting from the blocked rear steam ports. Many have added the rear steam ports to alleviate this issue.
I should have scanned the individual cylinders not retard during these tests. I'm not sure if they can pinpoint it or not, but definitely worth investigating 😜. Appreciate your comment!!
Thanks for another great video. I was wondering if there was any chance of damaging your engine with the E85 mix you spoke of? I don't think my C5 is supposed to have more than the ten percent in the gas we have here. (Calif. 91 oct) I just tried some Boostane recently and so far I believe the C5 is starting to improve. (6.5 liters, 10.5 comp. and P1SC Procharger)
I've been running 33% for a couple years with no problem in my scC5. I think there are plenty of guys that have swapped over to full 85, with of course a retune and proper fuel pump.
Great info im in California so 91 and e85 is available. Think I start with a booster in my tank and see the results . Go from there
I would scan a couple WOT runs through the rpm range in 2nd to see if you have any KR or not.
Great info thanks
Appreciate the feedback!
Excellent!
Many thanks!
Great video! Thanks brother....
My pleasure!!
I’m going to look at a 2006 , is the blue drive ok , or what do you use . I don’t have money for a high dollar obd2 like a snap on . I just want to check the code . Your video on buying a corvette was outstanding. Thanks Dennis
For just checking codes, blue driver should be fine.
Man, I'm an old guy and have long wanted to drive a Vette for a bit.
How old a fella are you?
Great video. Question, what about octane for the LS1 C5? Use highest octane available? I don't recall seeing anything on this. This past weekend I added a cold air intake and cleaned the MAF and feel a difference already. Oops, you mention 89 octane for LS1 but if I go to 91 or 93 what difference would that make?
Part throttle, no difference. WOT - higher octane will make a difference only if your engine is knocking (and pulling timing) on the lower octane fuel. Have it scanned by someone and find out would be my advice. Or- many people who push em hard just use 93 all the time - but it is wasting money if it turns out to not be necessary for your particular engine.
If I'm not mistaken the octane at the station I go to every week is at 91 octane, Shell V-Power in Oregon.@@Toys4Life
Excellent content!!!!
Much appreciated!
Good work 🇺🇸😎
Thanks 👍 & good seeing you last week!! PS, where did hobbyfarmer go?
How are you calculating the necessary amount of E85 and 93 required at each fill-up to maintain that 30% ethanol content going forward?
1. I go to the same pump and measure the ethanol content. 2. I populate and use a calculator like this one. www.morepowertuning.com/emix
@@Toys4Life Thanks for the reply and link. I hadn't thought anything over 93 would be necessary but you've obviously seen gains and documented the difference. It definitely takes some extra effort (especially with having to test the E85 at the pump bc it can vary so much from ~51-85%, but over time you probably get a good idea of how consistent it is at your specific station/pump) but might be worth the effort. Probably worth it to go ahead and put an inline ethanol content sensor in too bc they're relatively inexpensive and a convenient way to keep an eye on the mixture in HP Tuners. I believe you can add an extra fuel/spark map for E85 as well and then HP Tuners has a way to blend that with your 93 map in accordance with the actual ethanol content, but I think you have to pay to unlock that. I haven't gotten into the tuning side of things myself yet but it's coming up in the near future.
@nowayjose596 or you could test with higher octane like we did on my buddy's ZO6 and not find any more horsepower. Then at least we know that 93 octane is good which is good to verify for your specific setup and where you live. The flex fuel part is something I haven't explored much yet. I try to get to a point where I feel very confident with my ability and then I go outside of it a little bit and try to learn something new. Or if I'm helping someone with a tune, sometimes that forces me to go down a different path depending on their needs. Good luck in your endeavors!
@@Toys4LifeYeah part of the reason I was surprised you found more power with increased ethanol content is bc I know the LS engines in general don't tend to pick up as much with E85 as others do, like the LT series. Apples to oranges comparison there in port vs direct injection, but in general the higher the compression the more benefit you're likely to see with ethanol of course. My 99 is currently stock so I don't think I'd see any gains over 93 (like your buddy's Z) but I'll be doing heads/cam later this year and upping the CR in the process, and since I do have an E85 station near me it's nice to know that's an option I can explore to find what ethanol content/octane will work best for my combo. Being able to use a ~30% ethanol mixture rather than straight E85 is also nice bc I know when running E85 it's less tolerant of shorter trips and can relatively quickly degrade the oil in those cases, and I do use my C5 for normal in-town driving sometimes.
Thanks again for your informative videos and insights.
I always run non-ethanol gas in my 2006 C6 vette. In my area the octane availability varies. I try to find the 93 as much as possible (BP fuels). I also keep my tank level topped off when I go to park it. I never park it with less than 3/4 tank. Preferably a full tank obviously. Its never had any oil other than Mobile1 10W40. I only use top of the line filters (oil, fuel, air). Since my car may sit for a month, I always always idle the engine to near running temps before its ever moved. All of this mentioned is just common sense in my opinion. One more point on the fuel,,,,, I run NOTHING but non-ethanol in all of my vehicles. (1990 restored F-150 XLT Lariat 5.0L V-8,,,,, a 1994 Saturn SC1 4 cylinder 5 speed with intentions to restore,,,,,,ALL of my "mowing engines" from zero turns to leaf blowers). Its a no brainer,,,,ethanol DOES NOT combust with the intensity of pure gasoline. Ethanol DOES NOT store very well whether its in a tank or sitting in a gas can. The formation of water is highly likely. Thanks for reading this. Its just simple common sense. Tim Y.
Agreed, for lawn mowers, carbureted engines, old cars that have vented to atmosphere where they can absorb moisture, things like that pure gasoline's best.
@timyarbrough6356 Agreed on your points especially ethanol; wish I had more options nearby. Props on the discipline of all that and never using Ethanol-containing gas. Sounds like you're the previous owner we're looking for when buying a car haha. I try to do most all the same things as consistently as possible.
However just a heads up on a couple things:
I always filled with BP/Amoco for years, but unbeknownst to me they ceased being a Top Tier fuel late in 2021. Given how diligent you are I imagine you know getting proper detergents in gas is critical, and I have found nothing to suggest that BP did this but continued to maintain the proper levels. I shoot for Exxon or Sunoco now instead personally.
The other thing relates to idling to temperature whenever you turn it on - I always did the same whenever turning on any of my cars. However I recently did a deep dive on oiling/temps/operating lubrication after acquiring a V10 M6 which has 10W-60 oil and is notoriously sensitive to being pushed outside operating temps. What I learned was letting the engine idle up to temperature without an actual drive where it reaches full operating temp throughout is WORSE than just turning it on for 45 seconds to move, then turning it off. Reason being that contaminants (namely water condensate) will be liberated by running the car for a while, but without a full drive cycle (which basically isn't going to happen at idle - plus idling for long enough to get there is worse for it) that condensation is unable to be burned/boiled off places like cylinder walls and oil passages. Not telling you what to do or anything obviously - I followed your practice up until a month ago - but just something to think about that ultimately convinced me it's ok to run the car for a minute or two then shut it off vs. letting it get some temperature every time I ran it.
Anyways, enjoy your vette! I'm sure I'll get one eventually I am on my 5th 04-06 GTO (currently have 05 LS2) and got a G8 GXP with the LS3 6 months ago so I've now ticked boxes for LT1 (90's version), LS1, LS2, and LS3 but managed not to own a vette yet. I have a feeling an LS7 is in my future at some point to complete the set lol. Or at least an LS6 if I get a C5 Z06 instead.
@@clinttube You make very valid points as well. I appreciate your time spent giving me your take on these subjects. Happy motoring to you my friend.
@@timyarbrough6356 of course and same to you! Figured you'd be interested since I have basically the same habits. I actually rechecked for ethanol free gas around me after reading your comment above and there's a new spot that apparently has premium gas E0 so I will definitely be checking that out. Have a good one
I always put 93 in mine. . Anything under 93 is for lawnmowers and weedwackers
Question that has nothing to do with this subject. what stoich afr is good for a supercharged C6? I uploaded the tune i got from my and i noticed it was set at 28.20020 instead of 14.108. I bought HP tuner and decided to do my own tuning. Thanks
Stoich should be whatever the fuel you're using is. E10 pump gas is about 14.10. wide open throttle air fuel ratio is adjusted with the power enrichment tables to be somewhere around 11.3 to 1.
Just a thought... If your PCV system is blowing oil mist into the intake tract at higher RPM and higher load, your real-time octane in the combustion chamber is being reduced, right at the time you can afford it least. Of course, you will see evidence of oil in the intake tract and I would think you already know if it is happening, but you didn't happen to mention the presence or absence of this condition, so I thought I'd butt-in where I wasn't asked to do so.
I think it would also be supplying it with with no oxygen air which would lower the pressure in the combustion chamber reducing the need for octane.
@Toys4Life I'd agree that under high loads and high RPM, the substantially larger volume of crankcase "gasses and vapors" from the PCV system will displace some of the air that would normally enter through the Intake Tract and therefore the Oxygen that would be commensurate with the air being displaced. However, I think instead of reducing cylinder pressure, the mixture, being depleted of O2... will be a lean-burning mixture... and possibly exacerbate the likelihood of detonation; combining an oil-fouled, reduced-octane condition with a lean condition and really asking for a bad day.
Maybe. YMMV. My comments are based on many, many years of fun with cars, crossed with many years of being paid to design, build, and fly scores of missiles and rockets with emphasis on engines, motors, and things that go 'boom' in the night for our 'friends'. Hahaha! But I sure don't know everything, so take anything I say as one man's opinion. And I'll keep my ears open to do some learning as well. Happy to discuss any of it... anytime open minds have thoughts or data to share
Have a GREAT Day!
Not practical to buy e85 not available everywhere. Especially in nyc
Please tell me you can find 93 octane somewhere?
The LS engine PCV system could be allowing excessive oil consumption through the intake manifold which increases the engines chances of KR. Do you run a catch can? . If not, could that be another cause of KR?
It definitely could lead to more carbon buildup on the valves and piston tops leading to not retard. I'm investigating this and potentially might add a catch can, great, thank you!
how about on the c6 z06. I'm from Minneapolis.
We searched on my buddy's C6 Z and didn't find any extra over 93 octane.
I wonder if this is true for all LS2 powered vehicles. I am from Australia and my Commodore VE SS Ute has an LS2.
I think it has to do with elevation, quality of fuel, and probably the level of carbon build up through tens of thousands of miles of driving.
I appreciate the research, but it shouldn't have taken you 9 minutes to say "try some octane boost". Could have just led with that and said "stick around to find out why" and I probably would have but after like 4 minutes of you saying nothing at all about the title, i figured it for click bait and just skimmed through and happened to catch the pic of the octane boost.
I appreciate your comment sir. I always like to show my work. I believe that if I had just said "toss in some octane boost", I would have received a bunch of comments saying that is snake oil and wont help any.
Did you mind the false knock phenomenon? Maybe the sensors are the sensitive settet in the tune?
Regards
When I increase the octane rating, all of the knock went away. That's my standard protocol for determining if it's false or not.
@@Toys4Lifecheck goat rope garage for the false knock. It is very interesting and I could find false knock in my software/hardware. 😊 just a tip
Despite that, good informative vids that You are posting ❤
How much ethonal can you safely put into a c6 on a stock tune and with no sensor? Ive heard that a flex fuel converstion is pretty simple on the c6 because gm put a flex tune on they just locked it for non flex cars in the mid 2000s. All the needs to be done is a flex sensor and a tune to my knowledge
I don't think the c5's computer can do it, maybe the 2004 cuz that one is different. I believe the C6 is all can, but I haven't looked into it yet.
I have a gas station near me that has 100% gas. If it starts at 91 or 93, should I add some percentage of ethanol for track days? Also, I am loving the C6 series.
You should not tweak the ethanol ratio of you fuel (beyond the up to 10% that comes in a lot of pump gas) without changing the tune as ethanol air/fuel mixture is richer.
@@Toys4Life For your reference, I have a 2005 that made 363 HP at the wheel with stock heads and intake with the Torquer V4 cam, with a reliable "track and back" tune from Fastech.
@@christophershafer5615 then ask them what stoichiometric ratio that entered for the fuel, and that's what you should use to be consistent with the tune they gave you.
@@Toys4Life I have HP Tuners and plan on making adjustments as required on my own, but I am new to tuning overall. I felt lost on timing/idle settings and I wanted to have a dyno sheet as a baseline, so I took it to them. I want to understand tuning better so that I can adjust the car at the track.
Hey I'm Dan I'm in the Alexandria MN area and have a 2005 C6 z51 base convertible. Would love to chat and maybe cruise
Hey Dan, I'm here in the twin cities area - that would be a pretty long cruise (:-)!
Hey do you have a link to that spread sheet you used as a calculator for the E85 blending?
email me at t4lifec5@gmail.com and I will email the one I use to you.
If I get 93 pump gas and a bottle of octane booster will that help slightly? I have a 2005 c6
If you do have knock on 93 and you add some torco or boostane (Not the junk they sell at autozone) It will help. If you car is not experiencing knock that is retarding your timing, the additives will do NOTHING. Depends on your car condition, altitude, and fuel quality IMO.
@@Toys4Life okay thank you the car is completely stock. I live in Houston so I’m about 50 feet above sea level I don’t have the skills to get into the computer like you, but from your video at my altitude, it might help a little bit as I have noticed a slight rough idle thank you for the comment I’ll give it a try can’t hurt
Octane won't affect your idle. It's only going to prevent knock at high cylinder pressures of wide open throttle. But since you're at such a low altitude, give it a shot and see if you notice a difference (:-)
I can find 93 but in New York and long ions, e85 I rare
What about a 2010 Grande Sport?
Bring it over let's do some scanning (:-)
So if a guy with a C5Z (hint, me ;)) wanted to do some HP Tuners what do I need to get started?
I would take a good look at what your current skill level is and that might tell you where to begin. This might help?ruclips.net/video/NiZktmXYhyc/видео.html
I thought you were going to say 'tailwind'.
Wondering if adding a gallon or 2 of e85 will be safe without playing with the tune…
Part throttle probably wouldn't hurt anything, but it wide open throttle you'd be lean. I would not recommend it.
what did you do with your old c6 front lights, do you want to sell them to me?
The car came with the morimoto headlights, I don't have the old ones.
Why does the HP tuner show your TPS at only 88% even though you are doing WOT pulls?
That's a damn good question!! On the gen 4 computers that come with the c6s they only go up to 88%. When I first saw that I thought something was wrong years ago, then I researched it and yep 88% is as far as it goes. The Gen 3 computers for the C5 go all the way up 100. I wish I know exactly why GM did that????
How is the knock on your supercharged c5 then?
Great question. On 91 pump gas I was knock limited to about 12 degrees at WOT in the peak torque areas. I tried a few different ethanol percentages and with 33% ethanol (95.5 octane) + the a bit more latent heat of vaporization from the additional ethanol, I am at around 17 degrees which I think is pretty close to optimal (or MBT). My trap speeds went from 125.5 to 130 in the 1/4 with that change. The engine wants a certain amount of timing advance. On 91 pump gas in many cases the fuel cannot take the heat and pressure and knocks before you get to MBT. E85 is less forgiving in that it will go past MBT and you will start losing power before it will knock. My hunch is E33 is pretty good. Here is and excellent read by a guy much smarter than me about how insane ethanol is for high compression and even more so for forced induction. ruclips.net/video/6_DQPLihXfo/видео.html
is it the same for a C6 Z06
I did some testing on my buddy's 2008 C6 Z06 and we didn't seem to pick up any HP on 93 octane vs 96. That having been said, we didn't test during very hot days so it is possible the higher octane fuel would perform better in the mid to upper 80's and above.
you had access to 93 octane and still chose to run 91 in your Corvette until this video? lol sheesh
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I wish you were my neighbor lol
Ditto 🙏
I love rich guys with nothing to do
Curious why you chose to comment on my video when there's plenty of guys with C8s and Lamborghinis 10,000 ft² houses second houses trophy wives that are half their age. You really don't know anything about me other than I have a C5 that's worth about 15 grand in a C6 that's worth about 20. Most people in the u.s. pay more for their daily driver?
JESUS CHRIST IS GOD AMEN.
✝️🙏❤️🔥👑
I have frustrating issue with my 99 c5 it just shuts down while driving, the dash goes completely dead, an will not restart sometimes for 24 hours
Try jiggling the ignition switch with the key in it the next time it happens.