Thank you, this is the most comprehensive tutorial on peened rivets for Alox scales that I've found. Everyone seems to use threaded pivot pins instead.
Very good video and very informative. I'm currently working on a modified Cadet as well however I've been lucky enough to come across two different sets of 84mm scissor layers that I manage to rescue from severely damaged old models, 1 being a "Golfer" and the other was a "Salesman". I'm also changing blades around a bit and using a combo tool from a waiter. The thing is I'm wanting to give a modified Spotsman to the kids of my old friends to have when they are in their Teens. Since it's nearly impossible to get that number of actual 84mm scissors To make the Sportsman X I'll have to convert the 91s.
That's awesome! I'm glad they helped. Have you posted images of it anywhere that you would be willing to share? I would love to see it. If you are a Reddit user, r/SAKmod is a great place to share and explore.
@@JoshsShop I leaved adress of my post(that is Korean community bytheway) but it's deleted. I think google AI do that because he think my comments are spam. I try to post my images to Reddit.... sooner or later. but not today. it's too late..... goodnight ;)
Ha, thanks. Worst case scenario, I could have reassembled it as a regular cadet, but it did work out pretty well. This is the knife that is in my pocket most days.
One thing home tinkers should take away from this it that the diameter and "concentricness"* of the pivot pin is actually very important. Also: It is better if the springs are a slight bit thinner than the tools so it does not pinch or bind. I have been a pocketknife "surgeon" for a couple of decades and i have learned myself the lessons. * It´s a word!!
You can also get the 84mm victorinox climber i really like it it's the very same tools as the 91mm climber just in the 84mm frame great job buddy thanks for sharing with us 👍🏻
Thanks. The 84mm climber is a slick knife, but it is discontinued and hard to find. It's also about 17mm thick. I really like how this knife is only 11.5mm thick, it's super easy to carry.
A machinist trick for marketing metal is use a magic marker or sharpie and ink up the area you are working on and when dry, use a scribe to scratch a line where you want to cut.
I've always wondered if this would be possible. Maybe you'll be able to check now that it's assembled, but the scissor spring is usually pressed out and a new spring pressed in when the scissors have been opened to 90°. When the scissors is fully open, even on the Classic SD, the scissors spring hole is covered by the scale.
In order to replace the scissors spring on this knife, I would have to remove the scissors from the knife, because the spring hole is completely covered in all orientations. It is possible that I could have done things differently to give myself access, but I have never needed to replace a scissor spring, so I wasn't too worried. If it needs to be done, it is only one pin, so it wouldn't be that big of a deal.
@@JoshsShop agreed, likelihood is low. It was just that I noticed in the video you had the scissors at 180° or fully open when you brought up the spring replacement, where as even the Victorinox spring replacement tool/set requires the scissors to be open at 90° to access the spring. Having purchased a few cheap knives with broken springs before I had the spring tool, I noticed that the 90° position allows full access. I was hoping that it would be the case with yours too, but couldn't get a clear view during the rest of the video. Great mod. I have also considered the 91mm scissors in 84mm chassis but the width of the scissors vs a matching back spring was the issue, I didn't think of thinning the scissors down a bit. Well done.
Hi, a question to the SAK modders: Can I take the tools/springs of 93mm alox knives and put them into the standard 91 knives? I would like to replace the small blade with the 93mm awle and the can opener with the electrician blade. thanks for your help.
Both are doable, but might require a little tweaking to the tool thickness, to mitigate potential blade/tool rub, and adjust tool height when closed. I believe the awl is thicker than the small blade, so you would likely need to thin it down a bit. I think you could keep the 91mm spring for that layer. You will probably run into similar issues with the electrician blade swapped for the can opener, but I am not 100% sure because I don't have one to measure. The thing to do would be to build a jig to hold the individual layers as you make adjustments, and be sure to adjust the thickness of the tools from the larger knife. A few of my videos show this process, but not for these exact tool swaps.
@@JoshsShop ; thanks a lot, I will get me a 93mm and see if I can fit the tools into a standard frame. other then that the Electrician elox is pretty cool. I would just prefer to have the metal file and the normal plus scales with tweesers and the pen. Lets see if I can make it happen:-)
Another thing you can do is if you get some good drill bits you can instead of making pins to fit the holes, make the holes to fit your pin stock. Probably easier to get a good fit and the couple tenths of a mm difference wouldn’t be noticed. Just a suggestion.
Not a bad idea, but bear in mind, drilling out the tools of a Swiss Army Knife is not for the faint of heart. You really need a carbide tipped bit, and even then the hardened steel is a pain. I have done it more than once.
Assuming you mean on a bigger knife like a 91mm or 93mm I suppose it might be possible. That is not a mod I have seen before, it would all depend on clearance I would think. It would be a great way to thin things down without losing much functionality.
Good videos thank you. Can you advise if when altering a SAK (a 30 year old swiss champ and a huntsman of a similar age) do the two outside layers have to be the same IE bottle opener and can opener on onside with the two blades on the other? Regards Stu NZ
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoy them. TLDR: Yes you can usually rearrange the order of tool layers with a few exceptions. As for the order of the layers in a modified SAK, you can generally switch things up how ever you want as long as you keep the components of the individual layer together. E.g. you could pretty easily make a knife that has layers in this order: scissors, blades, saw, openers. The only real issues you have to watch out for is your tool access and back spring tool fit. Sometimes layer rearranging or removal covers up a nail nick or makes tool ends difficult to access. Also if your knife has back side tools like the 91mm corkscrew or perpendicular phillips, those layers pretty much have to stay on the outside so the thick back tools can extend into the space of the handle. Things get really tricky when you want to switch up the components of layers. For example: trying to put the bottle opener on the same layer as one of the blades. Some of the issues can be tools rub, tools aren't the same thickness, tools sit too high or low when closed, etc. It is sometimes possible, but it often involves altering stops, pivot hole locations, thinning tools, and/or spring shapes. Anyway, I hope that answers your question, maybe I will make that the topic of my next video. I do remember asking that same question when I was starting out and not finding an easy answer. Thanks for the inspiration.
If you do this kind of thing often it might be worth reaming the holes out to the size you need to suit the pin material you can source over reducing the brass.
This is a great video. I really appreciate the video while actually doing the work. This is hard to find. If I may ask, what tool are you using to measure?
Thanks, I am glad you enjoyed the video. I prefer to film and talk as I work. I suppose a voice-over might be a bit more professional, but I think doing it this way feels a bit more genuine and personal. As for my measuring device you are probably asking about my digital caliper. It isn't anything special, just one of the cheaper ones found on Amazon. I probably spent $25 on it. It is a little annoying because I have to remove the battery when I'm not using it so it doesn't drain, but other than that it is good enough for what I do.
@@JoshsShop very glad to hear! Im thinking about doing a alox compact. 93mm frame, scissors, combo tool (or the blade from harvester) and the main blade
Very interesting video! I'm dreaming of doing a Cadet X but don't you think it's possible to use the saw layer backspring from a Walker for example? Or maybe the thickness is way off?
What a great build video!! Thanks for sharing. Too bad you aren’t able to make these to sell; there are a lot of benefits to this modified model. And I’m copying your painting technique for my pioneer x (not sure if I want to go black or red though)!!
Buen video,... en verdad muchos quisiéramos que victorinox volviera a fabricar modelos de 84 mm con tijeras. Ese formato se navaja es muy portable y funcional
Thank you for making such an excellent video! If I can’t find someone to make a Cadet X for me, I might attempt this myself. But my tools would be somewhat limited. Do you think this is possible with a hand drill (+ carbide bits) and a Work Sharp belt sharpener (for the grinding)?
You can for sure do the drilling with a hand drill, I have done several times. That is, unless you are planning to drill out all the tools to 1/8" holes for a torx knife pivot, in which case, you certainly need a drill press. You might be asking a lot of the Work Sharp belts for this scenario, I don't have direct experience with those though, so maybe it would be okay. If you have a course grit belt that you can use to really hog off some metal, then it might be fine.
@@JoshsShop It looks like you needed to grind quite a bit near the scissors’ pivot. Could I just chop the end off with a dremel and finish with a grinder? I would just go for pins, but now that I watch the video again, I’m not sure I can easily file-down the pins without a drill press. I notice Flytanium sells Cadets with custom scales and removable torx hardware. I could get one of those and make a Voyageur from it. Thanks for the help!
I think the Dremel will do what you need for the cutting, you could probably do the grinding with it as well as long as you go slow and quench things frequently so it doesn't get too hot. If you go the Flytanium DIY Voyager route, be sure you have the pivots figured out. You will need a new longer set of pivots that are sized for the additional layer. Also you would still need to drill out the hole in the scissors. Unless the Flytanium pivots are 2.2mm, but I would bet they are 1/8 inch.
@@JoshsShop Flytanium sells their scales with pivots (you can even buy a preassembled cadet). It looks like I could fit the scissors on the opener layer. If I try to replace it with a thicker backspring from another knife, then I suspect the pivots might not fit. It would be nice to pair the flathead with the blade, like the old voyageurs, but I’m guessing those were specially shaped to fit. I’d probably be happy to just leave the nail file.
Ah I see, didn't realize there wouldn't be an opening layer. I think you are right though about the thicker back spring and a need for a longer pivot. Anyway, sounds like you are considering it from all angles, good luck.
The original pins are too short once you add the scissor layer. I am sure it is possible to find rods that could be used for the pins that are made from the same material as the original pins, I believe it is nickel silver, but I don't know where to find that. Everyone has different tastes, but I like the look of the brass in this case, and brass is easy to source (the hardware store near me carries a good variety). Brass is also relatively inexpensive.
@@JoshsShop I just bought a pioneer x, I'm taking out the blade layer, I just need a prybar/scraper, Philips and scissors, my brass pins and hammer are in the mail :)
Awesome! If you are really careful when removing the original pins you can reuse them since you are making the knife smaller. I have pulled it off a few times.
Nice. I don’t know why Victorinox doesn’t put scissors in everything. Perfect Cadet for EDC would be blade + cap lifter + scissors + awl + straight Phillips screw driver.
Good job But I would like the cadet one with: big blade small blade The can opener and bottle opener combo turns aims Lime Scissors Maybe one day victorinox will Sorry for my English I from Quebec Canada
Thanks. It seems just about everyone would change out a tool or add something, even I go back and forth on whether I would like the small blade swapped for an inline awl, like on a pioneer. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video! You could have filled that hole by peening brass into it before grinding off the back of the scissors. Just a consideration for the future.
Thanks. Maybe I am misunderstanding your suggestion, but I almost completely ground the original hole away on the scissors, so much so that I don't think anything would stay in the tiny divot that remains. You can see what I mean pretty well at 46:29 . That said, I am always open to suggestions, there is always room for improvement, so if I got it wrong, let me know. Thanks for watching. 😁
@@JoshsShop Yes, you’re correct, it wouldn’t have worked in this case because you ended up grinding most of it away. But, originally, you were just going to move the hole over, and it would have worked then, especially if you just needed to grind a small edge of the original hole.
Sometimes, but it seems the older I get the more particular I get about the things I own and use. I figure if I can make changes to things that will make them better for my intended purposes I might as well. Also, when it comes to multitools, there seems to be about as many preferred tool sets as there are users. Victorinox has a lot of options, but it is hard to hit every niche. I just wish they didn't discontinue the 84mm models with scissors.
Now, it became one of the BEST knives!!! Very good job!
That Spyderco Honeybee on a SAK was a pretty cool knife too.
Was joy to see the whole process. Thank you!
Thank you, this is the most comprehensive tutorial on peened rivets for Alox scales that I've found. Everyone seems to use threaded pivot pins instead.
I'm glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
The most interesting mod video I have seen in a very long time!!! Many thanks for posting!!!
Greetings from Guatemala!
Thanks, that is very kind. I am glad you enjoyed it.
Hopefully Victorinox is paying attention! We all want something like this. I would love an Alox Bantam X (2 layer)
Maybe some day, but I wouldn't hold my breath.
I absolutely loved this video, one of the best on RUclips
That is high praise, thank you! I am glad you enjoyed it or got something useful from it.
Fantastic, awesome, great video. Josh, you done an excellent job of producing the knife you want and a super tutorial. Kudos!!!
Awesome video, I always wanted a cadet with scissors.
Very good video and very informative. I'm currently working on a modified Cadet as well however I've been lucky enough to come across two different sets of 84mm scissor layers that I manage to rescue from severely damaged old models, 1 being a "Golfer" and the other was a "Salesman". I'm also changing blades around a bit and using a combo tool from a waiter.
The thing is I'm wanting to give a modified Spotsman to the kids of my old friends to have when they are in their Teens. Since it's nearly impossible to get that number of actual 84mm scissors To make the Sportsman X I'll have to convert the 91s.
very informative video. I have to buy carbide drill bit. thanks.
I made 84mm golfer( aka compact small). your videos are very helpful and made me confident . thanks for all your help. :)
That's awesome! I'm glad they helped. Have you posted images of it anywhere that you would be willing to share? I would love to see it. If you are a Reddit user, r/SAKmod is a great place to share and explore.
@@JoshsShop I leaved adress of my post(that is Korean community bytheway) but it's deleted. I think google AI do that because he think my comments are spam.
I try to post my images to Reddit.... sooner or later. but not today. it's too late..... goodnight ;)
This is an amazing result. Great work and thank you for sharing this info!
Thanks for watching!
You are a braver man than I am but it worked out great. Awesome video and thank you for sharing.
Ha, thanks. Worst case scenario, I could have reassembled it as a regular cadet, but it did work out pretty well. This is the knife that is in my pocket most days.
It is very nice. A true collectors edition.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
My pleasure!
Does anyone know if the centre pin on wenger and victorinox knives are compatible? / similarly located?
Thanks
can you change victorinox spirit scissors with a classic 91 mm scissors ?
I have not measured the Spirit scissors, but I would imagine it would take a good bit of fiddling do to differing thickness and shape.
One thing home tinkers should take away from this it that the diameter and "concentricness"* of the pivot pin is actually very important. Also: It is better if the springs are a slight bit thinner than the tools so it does not pinch or bind. I have been a pocketknife "surgeon" for a couple of decades and i have learned myself the lessons.
* It´s a word!!
All good points.
I've wanted a cadet with scissors, but I was thinking of switching out the file for a sd classic size scissor.
I thought about trying the SD classic scissors as well, it would be cool.
Perfection!
Thanks, it is one of my favorites.
Fantastic job! The entire video was very interesting. 👍
Thanks, I'm glad you think so.
You can also get the 84mm victorinox climber i really like it it's the very same tools as the 91mm climber just in the 84mm frame great job buddy thanks for sharing with us 👍🏻
Thanks.
The 84mm climber is a slick knife, but it is discontinued and hard to find. It's also about 17mm thick. I really like how this knife is only 11.5mm thick, it's super easy to carry.
A machinist trick for marketing metal is use a magic marker or sharpie and ink up the area you are working on and when dry, use a scribe to scratch a line where you want to cut.
excellent video, it's exactly how one could dare to make a mod, With tools that I can have at home... You show it as it is.
Thanks, I'm glad you found it useful.
I've always wondered if this would be possible. Maybe you'll be able to check now that it's assembled, but the scissor spring is usually pressed out and a new spring pressed in when the scissors have been opened to 90°. When the scissors is fully open, even on the Classic SD, the scissors spring hole is covered by the scale.
In order to replace the scissors spring on this knife, I would have to remove the scissors from the knife, because the spring hole is completely covered in all orientations. It is possible that I could have done things differently to give myself access, but I have never needed to replace a scissor spring, so I wasn't too worried. If it needs to be done, it is only one pin, so it wouldn't be that big of a deal.
@@JoshsShop agreed, likelihood is low. It was just that I noticed in the video you had the scissors at 180° or fully open when you brought up the spring replacement, where as even the Victorinox spring replacement tool/set requires the scissors to be open at 90° to access the spring. Having purchased a few cheap knives with broken springs before I had the spring tool, I noticed that the 90° position allows full access. I was hoping that it would be the case with yours too, but couldn't get a clear view during the rest of the video.
Great mod. I have also considered the 91mm scissors in 84mm chassis but the width of the scissors vs a matching back spring was the issue, I didn't think of thinning the scissors down a bit. Well done.
Thanks, and thanks for the suggestion even though it didn't work out, I appreciate it.
Thank you very much for those videos! Really learned a lot!
My pleasure, I'm glad you found them useful.
Awesome reference !
Thanks
Hi, a question to the SAK modders: Can I take the tools/springs of 93mm alox knives and put them into the standard 91 knives? I would like to replace the small blade with the 93mm awle and the can opener with the electrician blade. thanks for your help.
Both are doable, but might require a little tweaking to the tool thickness, to mitigate potential blade/tool rub, and adjust tool height when closed. I believe the awl is thicker than the small blade, so you would likely need to thin it down a bit. I think you could keep the 91mm spring for that layer. You will probably run into similar issues with the electrician blade swapped for the can opener, but I am not 100% sure because I don't have one to measure.
The thing to do would be to build a jig to hold the individual layers as you make adjustments, and be sure to adjust the thickness of the tools from the larger knife. A few of my videos show this process, but not for these exact tool swaps.
@@JoshsShop ; thanks a lot, I will get me a 93mm and see if I can fit the tools into a standard frame. other then that the Electrician elox is pretty cool. I would just prefer to have the metal file and the normal plus scales with tweesers and the pen. Lets see if I can make it happen:-)
Another thing you can do is if you get some good drill bits you can instead of making pins to fit the holes, make the holes to fit your pin stock. Probably easier to get a good fit and the couple tenths of a mm difference wouldn’t be noticed. Just a suggestion.
Not a bad idea, but bear in mind, drilling out the tools of a Swiss Army Knife is not for the faint of heart. You really need a carbide tipped bit, and even then the hardened steel is a pain. I have done it more than once.
Calipers such for smal ID, I prefer gauge pins or drill bits.
Would 58mm scissors fit with a combo tool on the same layer?
Assuming you mean on a bigger knife like a 91mm or 93mm I suppose it might be possible. That is not a mod I have seen before, it would all depend on clearance I would think. It would be a great way to thin things down without losing much functionality.
@@JoshsShop I was thinking on the cadet but would love to see that option on an explorer as well
Good videos thank you. Can you advise if when altering a SAK (a 30 year old swiss champ and a huntsman of a similar age) do the two outside layers have to be the same IE bottle opener and can opener on onside with the two blades on the other? Regards Stu NZ
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoy them.
TLDR: Yes you can usually rearrange the order of tool layers with a few exceptions.
As for the order of the layers in a modified SAK, you can generally switch things up how ever you want as long as you keep the components of the individual layer together. E.g. you could pretty easily make a knife that has layers in this order: scissors, blades, saw, openers. The only real issues you have to watch out for is your tool access and back spring tool fit. Sometimes layer rearranging or removal covers up a nail nick or makes tool ends difficult to access. Also if your knife has back side tools like the 91mm corkscrew or perpendicular phillips, those layers pretty much have to stay on the outside so the thick back tools can extend into the space of the handle.
Things get really tricky when you want to switch up the components of layers. For example: trying to put the bottle opener on the same layer as one of the blades. Some of the issues can be tools rub, tools aren't the same thickness, tools sit too high or low when closed, etc. It is sometimes possible, but it often involves altering stops, pivot hole locations, thinning tools, and/or spring shapes.
Anyway, I hope that answers your question, maybe I will make that the topic of my next video. I do remember asking that same question when I was starting out and not finding an easy answer. Thanks for the inspiration.
If you do this kind of thing often it might be worth reaming the holes out to the size you need to suit the pin material you can source over reducing the brass.
I fully agree, but I don't do it often. Also, most folks (me included) don't have the tools necessary to ream out the hardened steel of the tools.
Did you consider using scissors from a 74mm SAK?
I didn't have an extra set to mess with, but it is an intriguing idea.
HUZZAH, great vid.
This is a great video. I really appreciate the video while actually doing the work. This is hard to find. If I may ask, what tool are you using to measure?
Thanks, I am glad you enjoyed the video. I prefer to film and talk as I work. I suppose a voice-over might be a bit more professional, but I think doing it this way feels a bit more genuine and personal.
As for my measuring device you are probably asking about my digital caliper. It isn't anything special, just one of the cheaper ones found on Amazon. I probably spent $25 on it. It is a little annoying because I have to remove the battery when I'm not using it so it doesn't drain, but other than that it is good enough for what I do.
I just want to swap the can opener for a pair of scissors. That would make my Cadet perfect.
why not use the 85mm victorinox evo series scissors?
Mostly because I didn't have one on hand. 🤪
@@JoshsShop haha fair enough! How has it held up?
Great, I probably carry it 3 days a week.
@@JoshsShop very glad to hear! Im thinking about doing a alox compact. 93mm frame, scissors, combo tool (or the blade from harvester) and the main blade
Very interesting video! I'm dreaming of doing a Cadet X but don't you think it's possible to use the saw layer backspring from a Walker for example? Or maybe the thickness is way off?
I was just using what I already had. That said, I do think the saw layer is rather thin, but I don't have an 84mm model with a saw to confirm that.
What a great build video!! Thanks for sharing. Too bad you aren’t able to make these to sell; there are a lot of benefits to this modified model. And I’m copying your painting technique for my pioneer x (not sure if I want to go black or red though)!!
I'm glad you enjoyed it. I do really like my Cadet X, I carry it most days. :-)
@@JoshsShop yeah, I can totally see that. and the red scales look really nice
Is that a metal lathe in the background?!
I don't have a metal lathe, so probably not, maybe my wood lathe?
@@JoshsShop Cool, you can turn metal on that you know!
Hi Josh’s Shop, It’s been 2 months. How’s your knife holding up? I’m very interested.
I've been carrying it everyday, and it is holding up great. I see no reason to expect the knife to have any issues any time soon.
Buen video,... en verdad muchos quisiéramos que victorinox volviera a fabricar modelos de 84 mm con tijeras.
Ese formato se navaja es muy portable y funcional
Thank you for making such an excellent video! If I can’t find someone to make a Cadet X for me, I might attempt this myself. But my tools would be somewhat limited. Do you think this is possible with a hand drill (+ carbide bits) and a Work Sharp belt sharpener (for the grinding)?
You can for sure do the drilling with a hand drill, I have done several times. That is, unless you are planning to drill out all the tools to 1/8" holes for a torx knife pivot, in which case, you certainly need a drill press.
You might be asking a lot of the Work Sharp belts for this scenario, I don't have direct experience with those though, so maybe it would be okay. If you have a course grit belt that you can use to really hog off some metal, then it might be fine.
@@JoshsShop It looks like you needed to grind quite a bit near the scissors’ pivot. Could I just chop the end off with a dremel and finish with a grinder? I would just go for pins, but now that I watch the video again, I’m not sure I can easily file-down the pins without a drill press. I notice Flytanium sells Cadets with custom scales and removable torx hardware. I could get one of those and make a Voyageur from it. Thanks for the help!
I think the Dremel will do what you need for the cutting, you could probably do the grinding with it as well as long as you go slow and quench things frequently so it doesn't get too hot.
If you go the Flytanium DIY Voyager route, be sure you have the pivots figured out. You will need a new longer set of pivots that are sized for the additional layer. Also you would still need to drill out the hole in the scissors. Unless the Flytanium pivots are 2.2mm, but I would bet they are 1/8 inch.
@@JoshsShop Flytanium sells their scales with pivots (you can even buy a preassembled cadet). It looks like I could fit the scissors on the opener layer. If I try to replace it with a thicker backspring from another knife, then I suspect the pivots might not fit.
It would be nice to pair the flathead with the blade, like the old voyageurs, but I’m guessing those were specially shaped to fit. I’d probably be happy to just leave the nail file.
Ah I see, didn't realize there wouldn't be an opening layer. I think you are right though about the thicker back spring and a need for a longer pivot. Anyway, sounds like you are considering it from all angles, good luck.
Verry impressive👌
Thanks. 🙏
Can you use the original pins? Or does it have to brass?
The original pins are too short once you add the scissor layer. I am sure it is possible to find rods that could be used for the pins that are made from the same material as the original pins, I believe it is nickel silver, but I don't know where to find that.
Everyone has different tastes, but I like the look of the brass in this case, and brass is easy to source (the hardware store near me carries a good variety). Brass is also relatively inexpensive.
@@JoshsShop I just bought a pioneer x, I'm taking out the blade layer, I just need a prybar/scraper, Philips and scissors, my brass pins and hammer are in the mail :)
Awesome! If you are really careful when removing the original pins you can reuse them since you are making the knife smaller. I have pulled it off a few times.
Although it will be good to have the brass rods just in case. :-)
@@JoshsShop they were too hard to form, just tried it, brass is the way to go 👍
Nice. I don’t know why Victorinox doesn’t put scissors in everything. Perfect Cadet for EDC would be blade + cap lifter + scissors + awl + straight Phillips screw driver.
I could get behind that.
Good job But I would like the cadet one with:
big blade
small blade
The can opener and bottle opener combo
turns aims
Lime
Scissors
Maybe one day victorinox will
Sorry for my English I from Quebec Canada
Thanks. It seems just about everyone would change out a tool or add something, even I go back and forth on whether I would like the small blade swapped for an inline awl, like on a pioneer. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video! You could have filled that hole by peening brass into it before grinding off the back of the scissors. Just a consideration for the future.
Thanks. Maybe I am misunderstanding your suggestion, but I almost completely ground the original hole away on the scissors, so much so that I don't think anything would stay in the tiny divot that remains. You can see what I mean pretty well at 46:29 . That said, I am always open to suggestions, there is always room for improvement, so if I got it wrong, let me know. Thanks for watching. 😁
@@JoshsShop Yes, you’re correct, it wouldn’t have worked in this case because you ended up grinding most of it away. But, originally, you were just going to move the hole over, and it would have worked then, especially if you just needed to grind a small edge of the original hole.
When he says ‘scoach’ I think he means ‘scooch’. It’s mechanic’s talk, highly technical stuff.
I believe both schooch and scoach (defined as: just a little bit) are highly technical terms borrowed from the field of aerospace engineering.
Liking this company must be really frustrating...
Sometimes, but it seems the older I get the more particular I get about the things I own and use. I figure if I can make changes to things that will make them better for my intended purposes I might as well.
Also, when it comes to multitools, there seems to be about as many preferred tool sets as there are users. Victorinox has a lot of options, but it is hard to hit every niche. I just wish they didn't discontinue the 84mm models with scissors.
Cadets used to be 12 bucks! They're too expensive to play around.
Yeah, you have to really commit to messing around with one. If they were $12 I'd have one in every color, and every drawer of the house 😂
Just buy the compact and be done with all this nonsense..