Very helpful indeed. Mine was making the same vibrating noise following a short power outage. My solution was simply to unplug the pump for twelve hours and let everyone in the house take showers (nearly everyone complained about how long it took for the water to get hot)! I plugged it back in in the morning and the pump is as quiet as ever. My conclusion is that the flushing that took place over the course of time was enough to clear out the pump and allow it to return to normal. I will re-post if further steps are required. Thank you for your helpful tip!
Thanks very much. I repaired my Monitor water hydrant today. Now I have the same exact issue you had. I'll work in it tomorrow. Hopefully I didn't burn out the unit. It must have run for several hours before I realized that it probably had an air blockage. Best to you!
THANK YOU! I had flushed the hot water tank and then the pump started making the noises as you described. I didn't notice it at first as the pump is on a smart switch and we have Alexa fire it off when we need the hot water boost. When hot water didn't come as fast as usual, I did check the pump it was running hot and noisy. My first inclination was that there was an air lock. I searched the internet and luckily stumbled on to your video. When I loosened the screws, air did hiss out. In hind sight, that was all I needed to do. I, however, pressed forward in case there were debris. (Again, if I had really thought about it, I would discount debris as there was minimal debris when I flushed the heater.) After a few more turns on the screws, I took a shower even though I had turned off the valves above and below the pump :-( For better or worse there was no blockage in the system. While I had the pump out I cleaned the little debris present; reconnected the pump and its purring quietly. Going forward, for me, when I flush the heater again, unless I see a lot of debris, I'll just "burp" the circulator if this happens. THANKS AGAIN!
That’s the exact sound I was hearing in the building I live in. It was so loud you could hear it through the baseboard heating. Like I hear the water moving and sometimes little buzzing but sometimes it be so loud like a vibration noise it was so annoying. Finally the landlords replaced the pump now it’s silent
If this is for a hot water heat system or domestic hot circulation line, there should be a boiler drain or hose connection attached to the system for air bleeding. When the system is repaired or drained, the " closed loop" must be bled of all air. Just hook a small garden hose to it and drain to floor drain for 5-10 minutes while running the pump in normal conditions. Anytime air is introduced to the system, it must be bled or an air lock condition will occur, such as yours. And Yes check valves are required and No, Taco double 00 pumps do not have built in check valves. If the pump is used for domestic hot water, the pump housing or volute must be stainless or bronze as cast iron will contaminate the drinking water..... Great video Thanks
Glad i watched your video, when i loosing the bolt to motor i heard a hissing, then re tighten bolts and bleed the zone and it work, my circulator was air locked. Thank you
Thanks same noise issue though we hadn't done any updates to system.Huge racket all through the house, will give this a try. Could save close to 1K in repairs.
Thanks. Some have looked at my video, opened up the pump to find it bone dry and claim this didn't work. But they now know there is NO water in the pump and it should not be too hard to figure out why. oh well, appreciate the positive feedback. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a Subscribe. THANKS!!!!
Good job. I have a very if not identical setup as you. Just replaced my LP power vent water heater...and during the replacement I guess lots of mineral deposits that were in the old heater got dislodged and up into the hot lines. It's like white coarse sand. Now my taco pump is not spinning. I guess I will open it up tonight. My recirc system does work without the pump but would like to get it spinning again. Thanks
My upstairs heat stopped working. It was working just the other day. I had a similar problem a few months back and my oil service replaced the Taco circulator pump. I just noticed the same pump is a little noisy when I turn the heat on upstairs but no heat. I wonder if I’m experiencing what you describe. Not sure if this is related but yesterday I noticed the toilet water was a little brown, even after a few flushes. Today it was clear.
Water is what cools the pump, if you have air in your loop , Eventually the pump cavitation that iar pocket and won't pump the water. leading to burning out the pump . Every now and then I find the systems need to be bleed out. Though I'm not sure why you installed 2 check valves, you don't need them , the pump housing already has one in it. All you're doing is restricting the flow.
Hi YDM. Great video!!! I think this may be my problem. However NOT I've found I have a leak above the motor. Can I still get hot water in the house with the recirculation pump off and the valves on either side closed? It's the weekend and I'll have to wait for a plumber.
Interesting that your direction of flow arrow is facing in the opposite direction of where the electrical housing is. I put the same Taco unit in today and the arrow flow is pointing in the direction of the electrical housing. Why is this pointing away on yours?
Not really interesting .... the motor can be oriented in any ONE of 4 different positions. The motor rotation is the same CCW or CW (depending on which end you're viewing it from) direction regardless of where the electrical connection box is.
@@YuDaMan It's interesting because as when I was installing it yesterday and I was curious of if the motor could be turned in that direction. Then I see it on RUclips later that day.
Same thing happened to me today! We replaced expansion take and feed water pressure regulator. Then, when calling heat the unit would fire up and then fire off a minute or two later. I hit the circulator with a hammer lightly a few times, drained the system, then purged it out (lot of air). After, it fired up and stayed on. I am hoping there is no problems going forward.
Your video is FANTASTIC! I have the same exact problem. Thank you. Question: What if I don't have TWO isolation valves like you? I have a valve feeding the pump, which I can shut off, and there's a check valve on the outlet side, before the pipe just feeds back into the water heater. Can I still do what you said, or do I have to drain the whole water heater to make sure it doesn't flood when I open the pump?
Close the valve. I think you will be able to loosen the screws but not remove them and you will be able to bleed air and water. I would not take them completely out. just loosen all of them the same # of turns. Then jiggle the pump to break the seal contact. Then slowly open the valve, maybe not all the way and leave open until you have no air and only water dripping. Then tighten up the screws, open the valve all the way and turn on pump. It should all tighten up easily and nicely. If your check valve is bad or stuck open, you might have a lot of water but manageable if you don't completely remove all the screws. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE. Report back if this works for you so you can help others. THANKS.
@yudaman Sounds like a have a similar setup to the commenter. I may be overthinking this process and I have a question as I attempted to purge, but the pump was still noisy. I did the following. 1) unplugged Pump 2) turned off valve that send water to the house 3) turned off valve below the pump going to the water heater 4) loosened screws and drains water and air 5) tightened screws 6) turned on valve feeding house 7) turned on valve going to the water heater below the pump 8) plugged pump in I may have missed turning on valve slightly before screwing back together?? Does that sound about right? Does it matter if the valve below the pump is off or on before turning pump back on? Thanks for any clarifications.
Had the same noise. Had air in the pipes. So no water pressure to to the circulator so I did a release of air pressure from the furnace and the problem was solved. Did not have to take the circulator apart.
I did NOT take the circ completely apart. Just loosened the flange to release the air and tightened back up. Be sure to LIKE and Subscribe. That will really HELP me! THANKS!!!
Thanks for the video. I have a question, so if the pump was dry then the water was obviously not circulating? Did you notice that the water was taking longer than normal to heat up before you flushed the line out? I ask because our pump started making that noise a couple days ago but we are still getting instant hot water at the faucets. I'm thinking my pump is maybe going bad.
not sure I can answer your question since it was quite awhile ago and I'd had to give you bad info. I would however appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE. That would really help me. THANKS!!!
Good video! Help me diagnose the issue. Did exactly what you said but when the sound still kept going, we replaced the check valve. Just wanted to share that in case any other DIYers run into the issue
I've had nothing but problems with check valves, whether they be swing gate type or spring type. I'm thinking about replacing the check valve with an electronic valve ... activate valve when pump is activated. thanks for sharing. I'm sure it will help someone!
Trying to see if this might be my AC problem. Could this be the reason an air conditioner does not get cold? I have to turn the hot water valve off and then the AC gets cold. When using the heater in the winter, the hot water runs out quickly in the showers.
I seriously doubt this has anything to do with your AC unless you are circulating hot water to heaters or radiators and trying to heat you house the same time you are trying to cool it.
Thanks for your help! I have very similar issues. Instead of a 24 hr timer, we use a 60 spa minute timer w/ a "maid mode" option. I can send you a couple of pictures if you want to make a how to tutorial for subscribers.
@@YuDaMan Ah so a bad plumber unfortunately. You will probably have more issues later on since it's not up to code. A bleeder valve is a must since the 80s
continuous?? that is a lot of heat loss as well as electricity. You could run a switch to the kitchen and shower so that you can turn on pump to save water and heat bu running it just before you want to use the shower or kitchen sink...
not much energy for the benefit ... heavily insulated piping and timer: ruclips.net/video/KGeBZ6fKg7w/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/KGeBZ6fKg7w/видео.html
I got a similar issue. My Taco circulator (replaced professionally in 2014) is making a loud noise. Pulled the pump and housing off and very little water came out, and it was sorta brown. I'm not sure how much water should be flowing through this line but after I pulled the pump, I left the valve open, still very little water came out. I even re started my furnace and again, very little water came out. I'm thinking the lines need a flushing? I have no idea
agreed. After I fixed the problem, the thought occurred to me that perhaps my solution would benefit someone. So I created a video AFTER THE FACT. If you're not a handy person, then my video is probably not helpful to you.
The pump is not install properly. The arrow should never be pointed down. The manufacture don’t recommend. Because of air issues. It should be install horizontal. Where the check valve is.
The arrow is the direction for flow. It has nothing to do with up or down. Motor horizontal is the STANDARD position for this model according to the Taco spec sheet. Motor up with pump at the bottom is ONLY allowed if over 20 psi.
Very helpful indeed. Mine was making the same vibrating noise following a short power outage. My solution was simply to unplug the pump for twelve hours and let everyone in the house take showers (nearly everyone complained about how long it took for the water to get hot)! I plugged it back in in the morning and the pump is as quiet as ever. My conclusion is that the flushing that took place over the course of time was enough to clear out the pump and allow it to return to normal. I will re-post if further steps are required. Thank you for your helpful tip!
Thanks very much. I repaired my Monitor water hydrant today. Now I have the same exact issue you had. I'll work in it tomorrow. Hopefully I didn't burn out the unit. It must have run for several hours before I realized that it probably had an air blockage. Best to you!
This solved my issue. Thank you very much. Took me less than 5 mins and my wife and I had been dealing with that loud noise for about 2 months.
THANK YOU! I had flushed the hot water tank and then the pump started making the noises as you described. I didn't notice it at first as the pump is on a smart switch and we have Alexa fire it off when we need the hot water boost. When hot water didn't come as fast as usual, I did check the pump it was running hot and noisy. My first inclination was that there was an air lock. I searched the internet and luckily stumbled on to your video. When I loosened the screws, air did hiss out. In hind sight, that was all I needed to do. I, however, pressed forward in case there were debris. (Again, if I had really thought about it, I would discount debris as there was minimal debris when I flushed the heater.) After a few more turns on the screws, I took a shower even though I had turned off the valves above and below the pump :-( For better or worse there was no blockage in the system. While I had the pump out I cleaned the little debris present; reconnected the pump and its purring quietly. Going forward, for me, when I flush the heater again, unless I see a lot of debris, I'll just "burp" the circulator if this happens. THANKS AGAIN!
That’s the exact sound I was hearing in the building I live in. It was so loud you could hear it through the baseboard heating. Like I hear the water moving and sometimes little buzzing but sometimes it be so loud like a vibration noise it was so annoying. Finally the landlords replaced the pump now it’s silent
If this is for a hot water heat system or domestic hot circulation line, there should be a boiler drain or hose connection attached to the system for air bleeding. When the system is repaired or drained, the " closed loop" must be bled of all air. Just hook a small garden hose to it and drain to floor drain for 5-10 minutes while running the pump in normal conditions. Anytime air is introduced to the system, it must be bled or an air lock condition will occur, such as yours. And Yes check valves are required and No, Taco double 00 pumps do not have built in check valves. If the pump is used for domestic hot water, the pump housing or volute must be stainless or bronze as cast iron will contaminate the drinking water..... Great video Thanks
Glad i watched your video, when i loosing the bolt to motor i heard a hissing, then re tighten bolts and bleed the zone and it work, my circulator was air locked. Thank you
You are welcome. I hope you subscribe to my channel. It would help me if you do! thanks.
Thanks same noise issue though we hadn't done any updates to system.Huge racket all through the house, will give this a try. Could save close to 1K in repairs.
one of the best video's in a long time!thank you!
Thanks. Some have looked at my video, opened up the pump to find it bone dry and claim this didn't work. But they now know there is NO water in the pump and it should not be too hard to figure out why. oh well, appreciate the positive feedback. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a Subscribe. THANKS!!!!
Very helpful. Did what you did with opening the valve above and that helped fix the problem. Thanks!
Good job. I have a very if not identical setup as you. Just replaced my LP power vent water heater...and during the replacement I guess lots of mineral deposits that were in the old heater got dislodged and up into the hot lines. It's like white coarse sand. Now my taco pump is not spinning. I guess I will open it up tonight. My recirc system does work without the pump but would like to get it spinning again. Thanks
My upstairs heat stopped working. It was working just the other day. I had a similar problem a few months back and my oil service replaced the Taco circulator pump. I just noticed the same pump is a little noisy when I turn the heat on upstairs but no heat. I wonder if I’m experiencing what you describe. Not sure if this is related but yesterday I noticed the toilet water was a little brown, even after a few flushes. Today it was clear.
Great video, thanks!
Water is what cools the pump, if you have air in your loop , Eventually the pump cavitation that iar pocket and won't pump the water. leading to burning out the pump . Every now and then I find the systems need to be bleed out. Though I'm not sure why you installed 2 check valves, you don't need them , the pump housing already has one in it. All you're doing is restricting the flow.
my circ pumps do NOT have check valves.
Hi YDM. Great video!!! I think this may be my problem. However NOT I've found I have a leak above the motor. Can I still get hot water in the house with the recirculation pump off and the valves on either side closed? It's the weekend and I'll have to wait for a plumber.
What was the noise? We have baseboard heat and theres a big clunk every time the pump shuts off. And the pipes sound like they are rattling
Interesting that your direction of flow arrow is facing in the opposite direction of where the electrical housing is.
I put the same Taco unit in today and the arrow flow is pointing in the direction of the electrical housing.
Why is this pointing away on yours?
Not really interesting .... the motor can be oriented in any ONE of 4 different positions. The motor rotation is the same CCW or CW (depending on which end you're viewing it from) direction regardless of where the electrical connection box is.
@@YuDaMan It's interesting because as when I was installing it yesterday and I was curious of if the motor could be turned in that direction. Then I see it on RUclips later that day.
Same thing happened to me today! We replaced expansion take and feed water pressure regulator. Then, when calling heat the unit would fire up and then fire off a minute or two later. I hit the circulator with a hammer lightly a few times, drained the system, then purged it out (lot of air). After, it fired up and stayed on. I am hoping there is no problems going forward.
I never took the top off the circulator pump. Given the location, it's hard to get in there to take it off. Purging the system did the trick.
Your video is FANTASTIC! I have the same exact problem. Thank you. Question: What if I don't have TWO isolation valves like you? I have a valve feeding the pump, which I can shut off, and there's a check valve on the outlet side, before the pipe just feeds back into the water heater. Can I still do what you said, or do I have to drain the whole water heater to make sure it doesn't flood when I open the pump?
Close the valve. I think you will be able to loosen the screws but not remove them and you will be able to bleed air and water. I would not take them completely out. just loosen all of them the same # of turns. Then jiggle the pump to break the seal contact. Then slowly open the valve, maybe not all the way and leave open until you have no air and only water dripping. Then tighten up the screws, open the valve all the way and turn on pump. It should all tighten up easily and nicely. If your check valve is bad or stuck open, you might have a lot of water but manageable if you don't completely remove all the screws. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE. Report back if this works for you so you can help others. THANKS.
@yudaman
Sounds like a have a similar setup to the commenter.
I may be overthinking this process and I have a question as I attempted to purge, but the pump was still noisy.
I did the following.
1) unplugged Pump
2) turned off valve that send water to the house
3) turned off valve below the pump going to the water heater
4) loosened screws and drains water and air
5) tightened screws
6) turned on valve feeding house
7) turned on valve going to the water heater below the pump
8) plugged pump in
I may have missed
turning on valve slightly before screwing back together??
Does that sound about right? Does it matter if the valve below the pump is off or on before turning pump back on?
Thanks for any clarifications.
Had the same noise. Had air in the pipes. So no water pressure to to the circulator so I did a release of air pressure from the furnace and the problem was solved. Did not have to take the circulator apart.
I did NOT take the circ completely apart. Just loosened the flange to release the air and tightened back up. Be sure to LIKE and Subscribe. That will really HELP me! THANKS!!!
I’m going to try it. I currently do not have hot water and this pump is super loud.
Thanks for the video. I have a question, so if the pump was dry then the water was obviously not circulating? Did you notice that the water was taking longer than normal to heat up before you flushed the line out? I ask because our pump started making that noise a couple days ago but we are still getting instant hot water at the faucets. I'm thinking my pump is maybe going bad.
not sure I can answer your question since it was quite awhile ago and I'd had to give you bad info. I would however appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE. That would really help me. THANKS!!!
Thanks for the tip.
What direction the the arrow goes up or down?
direction of the water flow you want.
Outstanding,,,,,
Good video! Help me diagnose the issue. Did exactly what you said but when the sound still kept going, we replaced the check valve. Just wanted to share that in case any other DIYers run into the issue
I've had nothing but problems with check valves, whether they be swing gate type or spring type. I'm thinking about replacing the check valve with an electronic valve ... activate valve when pump is activated. thanks for sharing. I'm sure it will help someone!
Trying to see if this might be my AC problem. Could this be the reason an air conditioner does not get cold? I have to turn the hot water valve off and then the AC gets cold. When using the heater in the winter, the hot water runs out quickly in the showers.
I seriously doubt this has anything to do with your AC unless you are circulating hot water to heaters or radiators and trying to heat you house the same time you are trying to cool it.
Thanks for your help! I have very similar issues. Instead of a 24 hr timer, we use a 60 spa minute timer w/ a "maid mode" option. I can send you a couple of pictures if you want to make a how to tutorial for subscribers.
Thanks but I've already upgraded the control. Video is here: ruclips.net/video/sBN6vPoMVwk/видео.html
I wish there was a bleed valve on this. seems like a little extra work.
Either a bad plumber probably installed it or it's an old house that predates code.
house built in 2002
@@YuDaMan Ah so a bad plumber unfortunately. You will probably have more issues later on since it's not up to code. A bleeder valve is a must since the 80s
@@tolazytothinkofanamd2351 That is some helpful info.. I will definitely updating mine to code soon.
continuous?? that is a lot of heat loss as well as electricity. You could run a switch to the kitchen and shower so that you can turn on pump to save water and heat bu running it just before you want to use the shower or kitchen sink...
not much energy for the benefit ... heavily insulated piping and timer: ruclips.net/video/KGeBZ6fKg7w/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/KGeBZ6fKg7w/видео.html
Fantastic thanks
You are very welcome. Please help me with a subscription. Thanks!
Fixed it thanks!
I got a similar issue. My Taco circulator (replaced professionally in 2014) is making a loud noise. Pulled the pump and housing off and very little water came out, and it was sorta brown. I'm not sure how much water should be flowing through this line but after I pulled the pump, I left the valve open, still very little water came out. I even re started my furnace and again, very little water came out. I'm thinking the lines need a flushing? I have no idea
This was exactly my problem thanks.
Glad this helped you. I would greatly a appreciate a subscription. THANKS!
It would be helpful if you would show the entire process instead of just talking about it
agreed. After I fixed the problem, the thought occurred to me that perhaps my solution would benefit someone. So I created a video AFTER THE FACT. If you're not a handy person, then my video is probably not helpful to you.
The pump is not install properly. The arrow should never be pointed down. The manufacture don’t recommend. Because of air issues. It should be install horizontal. Where the check valve is.
The arrow is the direction for flow. It has nothing to do with up or down. Motor horizontal is the STANDARD position for this model according to the Taco spec sheet. Motor up with pump at the bottom is ONLY allowed if over 20 psi.
@@YuDaManHe's talking about the orientation of the pump. It should be installed so that the water flows left or right. Yours is installed vertical
P.S. same Taco model as yours
Air locked