Im 3 months in on the 3665 motor and 140 amp esc combo and no signs of degradation on the bearings. Im using it in a SCT410.3 and it rips! Does as well as the Xerun combo. Good setup video and great motor choice!
I have the Max 8 g2 as well. Its in my ET48 2.0 andbit keeps up with the Xerun motor as well... I spoke with Hobbywing and they are making adapters as well for sensor plug so the motor and esc can be used with a regular style esc sensor plug.
@@localsonly-ju6fc it's a quality issues. I hate to say out loud but arma and traxxas are designed to fail. I've owned both brands and spent a ton of money on replacement parts. That all stopped when I started buying Teknos.... Best brand on the market if you ask me.
I bought that very same combo today and I'm currently in the process of shoehorning it into a Tamiya dt03 racing fighter buggy!! It's slowly morphing into a no prep drag car kinda like the one on the gecko RC channel.
Yep. I use Hobbywing in all of my cars. In my slash 2wd I am using the OG Max10 SCT (120A, sensorless) (3660 4000kv motor) in my rustler 2wd I am using the OG Max10 (60A sensorless) (3652 4000kv.motor) and in my AE 4wd buggy I am using the XR10 Pro with a 13.5 V10 G4 motor. Hobbywing is durable, reliable, lots of programmability, and if you have a problem, their support is awesome. Just look at HW escs vs other RTR escs. My old Traxxas XL5 and VXL escs don't even have any kind of programmability. And with the VXL it is only sensorless and available in 1 KV option which sucks. At the time when I got my HW brushless systems (October 2022) The Max10 SCT combo was 145 USD and my Max10 combo was 96 USD. Compare those prices to the Traxxas VXL 3s at the time which was 160 USD. Traxxas electronics are just junk and overpriced (even there chargers and batteries) so that's why I recommend Hobbywing or any other better option for stuff than RTR stuff. After this video, I actually want the max10 G2 just for the sensored motor. Lol.
I have the max10 g2 80 amp and a 3652 4100 KV motor and it’s incredible. Low down control and braking modulation is excellent. Thermal management is really impressive as well.
@@JonnieB. i was wondering if your motor fan constantly runs or if it only kicks on when its hot. Mine spins for a second at start up but then stops and did this right out of the box so I was just wondering if thats normal.
I like it so much I'm buying another one to replace the brand new one that burned up for no reason after about a minute. I used the 2400kv motor on stock Big Rock pinion. Crawled a little bit with it over some obstacles to check the torque and then the fan came on, ran for about 10 seconds, then cut back off. BEC was good but throttle was dead. After that turning it off and back on again would spin the fan for a second, then it would stop, and it would sort of reset again any time I tapped the throttle. Leaving it on long enough to try a factory reset it eventually let the smoke out. I really want the sensored setup to work but if the next $100 one burns up I'd have to say that a lot of concerns people have about hobbywing must be completely valid and they're just trash.
That is very odd indeed. I have had so many Hobbywing setups over the years - and had good performance from literally 100% of them. Yes, it is sensored...but that doesn't mean it is setup for crawling....just a thought.
@@RoadsideRC I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt that I somehow burned it out from crawling but all I did was crawl over a small pile of clothes after driving it around for a bit. I figured if it was indeed getting too hot from low throttle then the fan would just kick on or it would go into low power or something. Of course, I'm able to put the old 80A stock esc back in and do way more crawling with it and it doesn't want to overheat, just does the cogging. So if a sensored setup like this is actually going to have more adverse affects on it due to low throttle rather than the other way around I guess I really don't see the point. Maybe the whole idea is just for racing, but avoiding any initial jump when applying throttle? Or smoother air control? I really don't get it cause I thought the point was basically better low throttle control which also provides more torque.
@@Magneticitist These setups are designed to help with the low throttle control *for a short period* such as initial acceleration or coming out of a slow corner. That type of thing.
@@RoadsideRC so would you say it would be quite possible to burn another one out if I was just going up a hill slowly? I know I wouldn't burn a regular Esc out doing that. I'm just trying to know how to avoid burning up the next one I get but I also don't want a baby drive it so lightly that there's no point to it.
@@user-tc2oe6pp6uI use them for driving around FPV and they work great. So not really 'bashing' or racing. In one case though I put a sensored setup on an ARRMA Big Rock because I wanted to use way bigger tires. So I dropped the motor kv and pinion and the sensored drive allows me to crawl over obstacles that would have otherwise just cogged the motor out into overheating. On a Typhon I put the sensored setup on just because I wanted better low throttle control from dead stop, not necessarily for racing, but the turbo timing is cool. With an FPV speed build I don't want it to also overheat having to go over grass for some reason if it's already a few football fields away.
Awesome getting to wrench with your boy. I got the 2400kv combo in one of my Slash 4x4s and it works really well for me on 3s. I can’t wait to run it on 4s once I can afford one lol. Great video as always Troy. Much love brother 👍🏻✌🏼🤟🏻
I just put the HW 80 Amp version in my redcat wendigo. Playing around with gearing now to find that sweet spot. Started small with 13T pinion Little slower than id like. Have 16T, 18T, 20T coming in soon. Hopefully one of them is what I'm looking for. Great video as always✌
Hello Troy, new hobbywing waterproof sensor connector looks pretty. I like their electronic so much and using it everywhere. Most in offroad 1:10 buggy, but also on touring cars from 1/12 to 1/8. Now i hesitate also switch hobbywing ESC in Sledge for Max6, left original motor there.
I got this motor for my vorteks cause the same thing happend to me. I also upgraded the motor mount cause it will bend all the time and strip gears so definitely consider getting that upgraded as well.
I've always wanted a sensored esc and motor setup. Interesting to see how it affected the drag race by eliminating the cogging and delay. Any recommendations for Traxxas Maxx?
I agree Max8. As Traxxas says it is a 1/10 it's not really 1/10 And more like 1/8. Well I mean that the Max10 might hold up in the maxx but due to the weight of it I would do the Max8 And run 2 2s lipos or just 1 4s lipo 🙂
In my experience, any motor will get ruined in these arrmas pretty quickly as long as you keep the bottom opening exposed. i found no other solution other than sealing the bottom opening to keep the dirt/debris out of the spur area. I use tape to seal the opening and my motors stay alive much much longer since
Actually.... thats a real mistake, dirt will find its way and its actually common in the bashing community to open up the chassis hole a bit more to allow for the dirt and grime to get out since it comes from around the motor mount, by sealing it you dont allow the dirt to get out... ARRMA did this for a reason. Its meant to be a modular design with the motor mount, so they saw a need to correct the mistake after they had first tried their model. This chassis design is proven as they are in their 3rd iteration (v3) and the hole stayed....lol extreme bashers simply open it more for easy dirt exit and extending the life of the drive unit. That being said i guess your method would be ok if you dont bash or srive in dirt. If you just do road or grass you should be 🙂 👌 👍
@@jah-jah87 I tried the opening in the chassis and it didnt really help. i would ruin a motor in 2-3 battery packs, running on sand dunes (desert). the only thing that worked for me was sealing the power module - and since my chassis already have a hole.. having the hole as well, which i think also helps in combination to the tape. Running on grass i would assume works ok with the stock opening (as long as you open it for cleaning from time to time)
Nice video! I'm thinking about putting a hobbywing max10 140amp, 3200kv motor in my Rival MT10. I'm wondering if it might be overkill though and just going with the budget hw 10Bl 120amp combo. How has your max10 combo been in the Typhon? A worth wild upgrade? I could justify getting it if it's a really nice increase in performance/durability,etc. Thanks!
Awesome set up! I will b buying this upgrade when my motor goes out. I have had my 3s Typhon for about 2 months. I just got a fast Eddie bearing kit for it. What caused the motor to seize? I have noticed a great deal of heat when I'm running on 3s, I'm going to cut some vent holes in the body and look into a more powerful fan. I have a chassis cover also to keep the debris out of the power module, I'm sure it's trapping heat but which is worse? Heat or getting rocks and grit into the power module wrecking the bearings?
I believe heat to he the biggest enemy here. Honestly though - this buggy made it through a lot of torture, over multiple years, so no complaints from my side.
I have Typhon 3s and motor bearing broke apart. I hammered armature out. I notice on one side under a metal ring there’s a half circle of blue stuff looks like silicone. I’m worried a bearing won’t sit right. Is it supposed to be there. ? I’m lost. I posted a video on my RUclips channel if you could take a look. I can post a longer one if needed. I’m new to this. Thanks in advance
@@RoadsideRC do you know how to clean the motor and armature? Mine is very dirty. What can I spray in the motor itself ? People say lube the bearings. Is that right? Aren’t they sealed bearings
@@RoadsideRCit’s amazing how much people always think bigger is better, it’s the same thing with tires, and they wonder why they’re always stripping gears/breaking shit.
@@2rcguyskinda.154 It looks like the xr8 SCT combo is quite a bit more expensive at ~190 compared to the 3300kv Max10 combo at $130. His kid seems pretty stoked with the max10
Im 3 months in on the 3665 motor and 140 amp esc combo and no signs of degradation on the bearings. Im using it in a SCT410.3 and it rips! Does as well as the Xerun combo. Good setup video and great motor choice!
I have the Max 8 g2 as well. Its in my ET48 2.0 andbit keeps up with the Xerun motor as well... I spoke with Hobbywing and they are making adapters as well for sensor plug so the motor and esc can be used with a regular style esc sensor plug.
That is AWESOME news! I was wondering about that myself!
Why does the spektrum motor bearing fail compared to other motors?
@@localsonly-ju6fc it's a quality issues. I hate to say out loud but arma and traxxas are designed to fail. I've owned both brands and spent a ton of money on replacement parts. That all stopped when I started buying Teknos.... Best brand on the market if you ask me.
I bought that very same combo today and I'm currently in the process of shoehorning it into a Tamiya dt03 racing fighter buggy!!
It's slowly morphing into a no prep drag car kinda like the one on the gecko RC channel.
Awesome! I hope it works well for you!
Yep. I use Hobbywing in all of my cars. In my slash 2wd I am using the OG Max10 SCT (120A, sensorless) (3660 4000kv motor) in my rustler 2wd I am using the OG Max10 (60A sensorless) (3652 4000kv.motor) and in my AE 4wd buggy I am using the XR10 Pro with a 13.5 V10 G4 motor. Hobbywing is durable, reliable, lots of programmability, and if you have a problem, their support is awesome. Just look at HW escs vs other RTR escs. My old Traxxas XL5 and VXL escs don't even have any kind of programmability. And with the VXL it is only sensorless and available in 1 KV option which sucks. At the time when I got my HW brushless systems (October 2022) The Max10 SCT combo was 145 USD and my Max10 combo was 96 USD. Compare those prices to the Traxxas VXL 3s at the time which was 160 USD. Traxxas electronics are just junk and overpriced (even there chargers and batteries) so that's why I recommend Hobbywing or any other better option for stuff than RTR stuff. After this video, I actually want the max10 G2 just for the sensored motor. Lol.
They really are great products! I 100% agree with they are better than most factory offerings!
I have the max10 g2 80 amp and a 3652 4100 KV motor and it’s incredible. Low down control and braking modulation is excellent. Thermal management is really impressive as well.
I'm surprised that high of KV works well, but really awesome that it does.
@@RoadsideRC yeah, running on 2s because I am limited to that at my local carpet track. I have adjusted the programming to work well with my senton.
@@JonnieB. i was wondering if your motor fan constantly runs or if it only kicks on when its hot. Mine spins for a second at start up but then stops and did this right out of the box so I was just wondering if thats normal.
Totally normal. Only runs when it needs to after start up
@@JonnieB. absolutely glad to hear that thanks man🙏🏻 I thought I might’ve hurt it while soldering good to know that it’s normal
On all my arrmas the motor output bearing was blown pretty fast. Cheaper to replace than a whole new combo but indeed that sensored setup is smooth.
Yes! This motor lived a nice long life fortunately. It deserved the upgrade.
Love this combo in my vorteks, it’s like old brushed power, super smooth, but with the power of brushless.
Agree 100%!!
I like it so much I'm buying another one to replace the brand new one that burned up for no reason after about a minute. I used the 2400kv motor on stock Big Rock pinion. Crawled a little bit with it over some obstacles to check the torque and then the fan came on, ran for about 10 seconds, then cut back off. BEC was good but throttle was dead. After that turning it off and back on again would spin the fan for a second, then it would stop, and it would sort of reset again any time I tapped the throttle. Leaving it on long enough to try a factory reset it eventually let the smoke out. I really want the sensored setup to work but if the next $100 one burns up I'd have to say that a lot of concerns people have about hobbywing must be completely valid and they're just trash.
That is very odd indeed.
I have had so many Hobbywing setups over the years - and had good performance from literally 100% of them.
Yes, it is sensored...but that doesn't mean it is setup for crawling....just a thought.
@@RoadsideRC I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt that I somehow burned it out from crawling but all I did was crawl over a small pile of clothes after driving it around for a bit. I figured if it was indeed getting too hot from low throttle then the fan would just kick on or it would go into low power or something. Of course, I'm able to put the old 80A stock esc back in and do way more crawling with it and it doesn't want to overheat, just does the cogging.
So if a sensored setup like this is actually going to have more adverse affects on it due to low throttle rather than the other way around I guess I really don't see the point. Maybe the whole idea is just for racing, but avoiding any initial jump when applying throttle? Or smoother air control? I really don't get it cause I thought the point was basically better low throttle control which also provides more torque.
@@Magneticitist These setups are designed to help with the low throttle control *for a short period* such as initial acceleration or coming out of a slow corner. That type of thing.
@@RoadsideRC so would you say it would be quite possible to burn another one out if I was just going up a hill slowly? I know I wouldn't burn a regular Esc out doing that. I'm just trying to know how to avoid burning up the next one I get but I also don't want a baby drive it so lightly that there's no point to it.
@@user-tc2oe6pp6uI use them for driving around FPV and they work great. So not really 'bashing' or racing.
In one case though I put a sensored setup on an ARRMA Big Rock because I wanted to use way bigger tires. So I dropped the motor kv and pinion and the sensored drive allows me to crawl over obstacles that would have otherwise just cogged the motor out into overheating. On a Typhon I put the sensored setup on just because I wanted better low throttle control from dead stop, not necessarily for racing, but the turbo timing is cool. With an FPV speed build I don't want it to also overheat having to go over grass for some reason if it's already a few football fields away.
Awesome getting to wrench with your boy. I got the 2400kv combo in one of my Slash 4x4s and it works really well for me on 3s. I can’t wait to run it on 4s once I can afford one lol. Great video as always Troy. Much love brother 👍🏻✌🏼🤟🏻
Thanks! I bet it does great in the Slash!
I was considering the 80a/3300kv combo for my fiesta rally. Much cheaper than the vxl system, and sensored. Great video, man.
Great choice in my opinion!
I just put the HW 80 Amp version in my redcat wendigo.
Playing around with gearing now to find that sweet spot.
Started small with 13T pinion
Little slower than id like. Have 16T, 18T, 20T coming in soon. Hopefully one of them is what I'm looking for.
Great video as always✌
Great! Hope you get it set right where you want it.
Hello Troy, new hobbywing waterproof sensor connector looks pretty. I like their electronic so much and using it everywhere. Most in offroad 1:10 buggy, but also on touring cars from 1/12 to 1/8. Now i hesitate also switch hobbywing ESC in Sledge for Max6, left original motor there.
Yes! They make great stuff!
Great video I've been curious about those hobbywing combos myself, that thing sure seems to rip in the typhon!
It really surprised me how good it was!
Nice buggies,seems like a great motor/esc combo,great video!!
I figured it would be good - but it actually surprised me how good it was!
I got this motor for my vorteks cause the same thing happend to me. I also upgraded the motor mount cause it will bend all the time and strip gears so definitely consider getting that upgraded as well.
Even after all of the abuse we have given this, our motor mount had a very slight bend - sp not very worried about the mount.
Very cool Troy i like how your boys are into the rc hobby also.Wish you were my neighbor lol
Ha! Maybe someday!
Awesome setup buddy that max 10 made it lively man
Sure does!
great tutorial!
Glad you think so! Thanks for the kind words.
@@RoadsideRC my brother has a 3s so you can bet il be referring back to this video if his motor burns up!!
Please do a speed test to get a baseline comparison vs the stock 3s typhon electronics. 😎 great content 👌 👏 👍
Thanks for the idea!
Honestly, I expect the speed should be VERY similar based on the KV
looks a good upgrade always good how you detail everything on the install work
*watching it all🥸Au💯big like👍*
Thank you 👍
I’ve got the 4000kv older version sitting here waiting to go into something. I think we’re gonna put it into the Jegs stinger buggy
Awesome! 4000kv is going to be a LOT! :)
great video!👍Thanks for sharing!👍
Thanks for the nice comment!
I've always wanted a sensored esc and motor setup. Interesting to see how it affected the drag race by eliminating the cogging and delay. Any recommendations for Traxxas Maxx?
Hobbywing makes a Max8 combo that would be EPIC in the Max: amzn.to/3muNQ6M
I agree Max8. As Traxxas says it is a 1/10 it's not really 1/10 And more like 1/8. Well I mean that the Max10 might hold up in the maxx but due to the weight of it I would do the Max8 And run 2 2s lipos or just 1 4s lipo 🙂
In my experience, any motor will get ruined in these arrmas pretty quickly as long as you keep the bottom opening exposed. i found no other solution other than sealing the bottom opening to keep the dirt/debris out of the spur area. I use tape to seal the opening and my motors stay alive much much longer since
Great tip!
Actually.... thats a real mistake, dirt will find its way and its actually common in the bashing community to open up the chassis hole a bit more to allow for the dirt and grime to get out since it comes from around the motor mount, by sealing it you dont allow the dirt to get out... ARRMA did this for a reason. Its meant to be a modular design with the motor mount, so they saw a need to correct the mistake after they had first tried their model. This chassis design is proven as they are in their 3rd iteration (v3) and the hole stayed....lol extreme bashers simply open it more for easy dirt exit and extending the life of the drive unit.
That being said i guess your method would be ok if you dont bash or srive in dirt. If you just do road or grass you should be 🙂 👌 👍
@@jah-jah87 I tried the opening in the chassis and it didnt really help. i would ruin a motor in 2-3 battery packs, running on sand dunes (desert). the only thing that worked for me was sealing the power module - and since my chassis already have a hole.. having the hole as well, which i think also helps in combination to the tape. Running on grass i would assume works ok with the stock opening (as long as you open it for cleaning from time to time)
Nice video! I'm thinking about putting a hobbywing max10 140amp, 3200kv motor in my Rival MT10. I'm wondering if it might be overkill though and just going with the budget hw 10Bl 120amp combo. How has your max10 combo been in the Typhon? A worth wild upgrade? I could justify getting it if it's a really nice increase in performance/durability,etc. Thanks!
This combo has been literally the best basher combo I have purchased. Power is HUGE and SMOOTH. 100% recommend.
Awesome set up! I will b buying this upgrade when my motor goes out. I have had my 3s Typhon for about 2 months. I just got a fast Eddie bearing kit for it. What caused the motor to seize? I have noticed a great deal of heat when I'm running on 3s, I'm going to cut some vent holes in the body and look into a more powerful fan. I have a chassis cover also to keep the debris out of the power module, I'm sure it's trapping heat but which is worse? Heat or getting rocks and grit into the power module wrecking the bearings?
I believe heat to he the biggest enemy here.
Honestly though - this buggy made it through a lot of torture, over multiple years, so no complaints from my side.
Thats nice would love to try one my self does it have boost? because if it does am thinking max 8 g2 arrma infraction rwd and a drift gyro
Good luck with that build! If you can pull it off, folks will love it!
can this car be upgraded to 6s or more? cause my goal once i get a car is to upgrade to at least 6s
I 100% would not suggest upgrading the 3S Typhon to 6S. Just get the 6S Arrma model if you want that.
I have Typhon 3s and motor bearing broke apart. I hammered armature out. I notice on one side under a metal ring there’s a half circle of blue stuff looks like silicone. I’m worried a bearing won’t sit right. Is it supposed to be there. ? I’m lost. I posted a video on my RUclips channel if you could take a look. I can post a longer one if needed. I’m new to this. Thanks in advance
It must be fine - you didn't add the silicone, so it was like that from the factory.
@@RoadsideRC do you know how to clean the motor and armature? Mine is very dirty. What can I spray in the motor itself ? People say lube the bearings. Is that right? Aren’t they sealed bearings
@brianu33 There is electrical cleaner you can use. The bearings should be pre-greased, so no worries there.
Too much KV with 3200. o go with 2600KV. It’s not getting hot
This is similar to stock KV. No issues.
xr8 combo would have been a better choice
Not for this small plastic buggy! That is overkill.
I would go Max8 in a 4S-6S Kraton.
@@RoadsideRCit’s amazing how much people always think bigger is better, it’s the same thing with tires, and they wonder why they’re always stripping gears/breaking shit.
@@RoadsideRC Xr8 not Max8,,,20 more amps,600 more kv,replaced day1 into owning it,radio,servo,combo
@@2rcguyskinda.154 It looks like the xr8 SCT combo is quite a bit more expensive at ~190 compared to the 3300kv Max10 combo at $130. His kid seems pretty stoked with the max10