9V Duracell Alkaline Battery Leakage
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Taking apart a leaked 9V Duracell Ultra alkaline battery
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You know the old saying: When it leaks like hell, it must be a Duracell.
Durahell. As someone else in the comments asked, how is this company still in business?
@@vincei4252 Duracell has by far the largest market share of batteries (look it up) - hence they will have by far the most reported anecdotal reports of leaks. I buy Duracell and Energizer batteries in equal quantities and have around an equal amount of leaky batteries between the two brands.
@@TechBench How do cheaper generic brands compare?
We used to use Duracell for most appliances, until we got a lot of leaking batteries (even for the more expensive Duracell ones). Then we just switched to cheap off-brand alkaline batteries, and never had a leak again. Maybe they just run out quicker, but I don't care as long as it doesn't leak as much.
@@sanderd17 Yeah, same here. I don't really need anecdotal evidence looking at all the devices of mine that Duracell has destroyed or nearly destroyed over the years. I was a slow learner.
I know of a company who designed a product around AAAA batteries, they used to crack open 9V batteries for the cells because it was cheaper than buying them directly.
I have a laser pointer with 1x AAAA battery in it, which I love -- lasts much longer than a tiny button cell.
That's what skins for. Love it,thanks for the tear down.
The potassium hydroxide (KOH) is reacting with the aluminum foil used as the backing for the label, forming KAlO2 + H2.
My dad still thinks that alkaline batteries never leak. Gotta show him this one 😂😂😂
I say the same thing to the heavy duty zincs. Lol
I’ve had one that was found to have leaked in the vacuum formed plastic and cardboard packaging before I even got it open! I forget which brand this was now.
I put fresh alkaline cells in an LED book light that I use twice a year. Half the time I find before I need to use it that at least one of the three cells has leaked... I should probably just remove the cells before storage so if they leak they’ll leak outside the device, perhaps in a plastic bag...
These leak alot
@@themadatheist1976 actually I seem to have more carbon sinks to leak and then actually alkaline batteries but then again I always generally check batteries every so often anyways.
But also any time I get something new that has batteries in it I always put decent ones in even if they are alkaline.
I make it a point to always put decent batteries in something that I get even if it has batteries already in it it's a better option in my view because less likely to have the crappy ones they're often in them start leaking.
And also of note sometimes have noticed when I've gotten something like an LED flashlight that hand batteries in it just for test purposes it sometimes even States this.
It seems like some of those batteries have almost nothing inside and seems like the cases mostly empty I accidentally squash one of those once when I was getting rid of some stuff.
Also I actually have seen at least one type of battery like that that was a AAA AAA but don't remember.
But it was so light and heavy at one end I had to investigate.
And did not feel right either for various reasons.
Turns out it was was basically a thin housing and at one end was a button cell and the rest was basically empty other than connection between one side of the Button cell and the other end.
It was labeled as the regular battery size no different in the markings of other somewhere batteries are used when a ship something out!
It is not AAAA. It is LR61 cells. These cells are similar to AAAA cells and can be used in their place in some devices, even though they are 3.5 millimetres (0.14 in) shorter.
I had a new package of Duracell AA's, a couple years ago, where several of the cells were quickly leaking in devices, and they were nowhere near the expiration date. It seams like I remember one had leaked in the packaging. I threw them all out and haven't bought Duracell since.
Yeah, even the expensive ones like "Duracell Industrial" leak way too much. If there one thing I expect from professional batteries, it is that they don't leak into expensive devices.
I stopped buying Duracell batteries.
And Rayovac batteries too. Just tossed out the last Rayovac battery that still was unused, but leaked like crazy while sitting in its original packaging.
If I’m going to get a cheap product, I am just as well off paying less by buying cheap Harbor Freight batteries. And they don’t seem as prone to leak.
Is this a repair video? replacing the AAAA batteries in my 9v battery
Just imagined a parody channel called "Lewis Rosman" and a video on that channel moaning about "Duracell design flaws" with a title of:
"Lewis Rosman - 9v leaking battery REPAIRED!"
X'D
@@dedr4m You mean Lewis Roseman?
@@the-mush Hahaha, Yeeea Boi!
I also like the subtle scent of burning flesh.
Hi Dave, I bought 12 Duracell 9volt ultra long life alkaline batteries with expiry date 2022, after 6 months 7 of the batteries had signs of corrosion and 2 of them had the negative terminals corroded right off, and seemed to be genuine as well.
Still enjoying your videos, keep them coming.
Steve K
Seriously half your Duracell corroded in only 6 months and 9v too? Duracell is supposed to be high quality brand and 6 months is a short time and 9v are least prone to leaks vs AAs and 7 out of 12 is an unacceptable failure rate. Maybe you had a bad batch.
Yep. AAAA cells for my surface stylus - the only time ive ever had to use one!
I just posted the "AAAA" before seeing your post. I used to buy the 9v batteries to easily scavenge Quad-A batteries for one of the first thin pen laser pointer I had just bought. The manufacturer sold the "SPECIAL" batteries and they wanted 3 or 4 times what an overpriced 9 volt cost. I was in electronics at the time so I spotted it right away. Good thing too, that thing went through batteries like crazy.
Practically every Duracell battery I've ever had in the past few years has leaked - some even while they still have a charge.
Absolutely terrible battery. I've banned them from the house.
ive done the same i banned all alkaline's in my use actually.. just not the bigger sizes like C or D yet as its kinda hard to find decent amp rated nihm cells other wise i use nihm on most devices that are fine with them and use the one use energizer lithium's on devices only get used once in awhile or voltage sensitive devices or oddly battery count like 3 cells instead of 2 or 4
@@EldaLuna you can get adapters that are several AA/AAA to C/D.
oh yeah forgot those existed to behonest. only thing is the capacity but i guess thats a decent work around at least for time being aha.
Most of the branded batteries leak. I found that Sony batteries are better and leak the least.
yeah true. ive had energizer go up as well. just not as often as duracell types. certain no name ones ive had though has done better kinda. but to me i feel like its done on purpose anyway. not to be just cheap but to start making others stop using them for the more expensive recharge/lithium ones or something. but thats just my own guess.
Duracell batteries are by far the worst alkaline batteries on the market for leaking, I've never known anything like them!
How long have they been making them in China? Perhaps that is part of the problem?
RayOVac are horrible too
Should've used a Batteriser on that battery :-) It would make it leak even faster.
Just yesterday my 6yo was asking about battery sizes and was fascinated at the prospect of AAAA cells. I now know we already have many of them around the house!
I have never had a battery that eventually doesn't leak. Radio Shack, CVS, Phillips, Duracell, Everready, Energizer, Ray-O-Vac....all of them end up leaking. I've come to take the batteries out of anything I don't use on a daily or weekly basis. My HP-15C, HP-48, and my HP-41CV. I pull them from tools that use batteries as well (Laser levels, digital calipers, etc). I've just learned that if it has a battery, it WILL leak...doesn't matter who made it.
Dave gets so excited about leaky batteries, he should come around to my place, he'd be in heaven.
A battery of this Duracell type exploded in the fire alarm so that the shell of the fire alarm flew to the floor and a few cells had flown a few meters away.
I put an Energizer in series with a Duracell in the same torch. Invariably, over several experiments, the Duracell leaks first.
Different then the 9v I took apart long ago, there was a stack of 6 rectangular flat cells stacked inside.
That is a better design than the cylinder ones as it gives higher energy density by not wasting space.
Don't see 9V versions leaking very often? You're simply not buying enough Duraleaks. Of late I've had them leak in a never opened package ffs. No more for me.
I just replaced my Eveready Super Heavy Duty (zinc-carbon?) 9 volt battery, in my garage door opener, remote control. It lasted since 2002 and no leakage.
Yeah, carbon zinc don't leak.
@@EEVblog They do, but very rare that it is enough to worry about, at least till the cell is way past (as in a decade or so) expiry, and the zinc case finally corrodes almost all away. But the paste inside is so dry that you do not get much liquid forming, unless you are in a humid environment.
I had a no name AAAA type 9V blow the lid off a couple years ago, screwed up the snap in the tool. I try to only buy Panasonic carbon zinc 9V now.
Agree with the other posters, Duracell's are pretty terrible now a days. I assume the company is trading on its name but I will not use Duracell's any more.
The Homeware brand used the same construction. I managed to blow one up running a led light on it. It didn’t blow up while running the light but 8 hours afterward. POP! It blew the contents partway out of two cells.
I took apart a dead 9V once and was moving around with the string of AAAAs and one popped in my hand!
yikes
Was thinking "bullshizz" when I first read this comment - and then unironically had a Duracell OEM AAA battery explode right next to me :/
After returning to post this, I've seen a fair few comments on battery RUD...
The battery of mine had been discharged at 125mA, and then 15.6mA for a capacity test - it was at 1 volt and *8* hours after I removed it from the test jig, BAM!
I thought a capacitor had popped in some power supply, so I was unplugging things until I spotted the battery with it's cathode all busted out...
The silver coating is aluminium that is applied to the plastic film in a vacuum chamber.
The potassium hydroxide that leaked from the battery corroded that Al film, leaving the plastic only. Al reacts with bases quite easily, it passivation layer is useless there.
Yup, roll to roll sputter machines.
Yes, Dave have a good memory, Microsoft Surface's Pen use 4A battery.
Batteries aren't the same quality any more.
Of course, the industry is seeing huge decline in sales because of better quality Chinese and generally people don't buy batteries on a routine basis anymore. The only items I use regular batteries are the smoke /CO detectors, remote controls, and one clock whereas the house was absolutely full of batteries with toys, clocks, torches, remotes and loads of other hardware needing batteries. Now the big name battery manufacturers are cutting corners like the cheap manufacturers are, the difference is they have years of expertise that lets them hit finer tollerances, and cut corners just right where as a company with less knowledge will cut too far and make a less reliable product or less consistant product on the productionline.
Out of all the alkaline batteries I use, Duracells now seem to be the worst offenders for leaking. Energizers and even the cheap Aldi batteries seem to be much more leak resistant than Duracells.
gawd duracell surely has gone down hill and then some.. everything ive "had" by them just explode. empty or full expired or not. they go when they feel like it. mean while i have d cells from energizer that are 6 years past the use by date and still holding up just fine. same for certain smaller ones. its why i changed to rechargeable ones now. at least duracell rechargeable are nice never have issues with those. i started using one use lithium for devices that dont often run or voltage sensitive things that nimh can some times suffer unless its c cell or d cell im stuck on alkaline but those i never had trouble bursting yet anyway. cause alkaline, carbon zinc etc etc are just not what they are anymore sigh.
The metal backing on the outer foil is a few microns of aluminium. And aliminium dissolves easily in strongly alkaline solutions, evolving hydrogen gas, as it is reducing the water.
I just bought a set of Tenergy 9V Li-ion batteries (2 series cells for nominal 7.2V, of course). I'm in the process of constructing some discharge curves, and I might throw the data up on the forum once it's complete.
It's interesting how the electrolyte has disovled the silver foil from the wrapper wherever it was in contact. Not just the 3 x AAAAs but the outer case wrapping as well (1:16). I wouldn't be surprised if only one of those AAAA's actually leaked and just disolved the wraps of the other 2.
Energizer and Raovac batteries have leak warrantees but not Duracell (as far as I know)
The leak warranties aren’t all that wonderful for inexpensive devices. Sending the device to the battery manufacturer an cost mire than just buying a replacement device. And if it is Rayovac, those batteries are bound to leak anyway; I just tossed the last of those from my home, unused and in its original packaging but still leaked.
One of my best childhood memories, is sticking my tongue to the terminals of a 9V Battery!
Zap!
That’s what apprentices are for... testing the state of charge of the 9V batteries... 🤣
Berkshire Attaway can't do much worse with Duracell than what Proctor & Gamble did! The Gillette Duracells were the best!
I always buy the cheapest 9V they only cost €1 a piece instead €5 for duracell
Got to pay for all those TV ads somehow
It's Mariel!!!!!
Other then the old school carbon cells. Duracells have been the only batteries I've had leak. Even dollar store Sunbeam cells have never leaked
those are a little shorter than a 4 A battery i use to use them in a flash light or a (torch ) had to stretch the spring to make them work
The Energizer 9V ones I have stripped are pile type.
I have a 30 year old energizer battery that still works so the 10 year guarantee thing is "fake" they used to make them very well back then... 30 years in storage and still works
Duracell "UltraLeak"
Energiser 9v leak as well. I had a 3 month old unopened one leak in the packet.
Yep, the pen for the MS Surface tablets (at least my Surface 3 non-pro) uses a AAAA-cell for its main functionality (plus a stack of fiddly button cells for some other stuff).
It’s not even a new problem, I repaired several Fluke 8060A DMM’s 30-35 years ago that had suffered damage with leaking 9v Duracell’s
My ancient 75 I was given had such trashed contacts I had to remove them and jam a wired snap in it. Thing had been in a toolbox so long I wouldn't doubt the battery in there was pre mercury phase-out, so much for that theory.
At one place I worked there was a guy who guarded the department multimeter. Anyone who borrowed it took an oath on pain of death to remove the 9V battery again afterwards lol.
The battery wrap might be some sort of Metallised Film, or Mylar -- a very common material.
Metallised film, printed, and then a separate vacuum deposited film is heat sealed to it. The edges of the aluminium film are exposed, so gradually the deposited film degrades as moisture and other chemicals work up the thin layer from the edge.
You hit on exactly what happens when these batteries leak: voltage reversal. Think about that: when the voltage flips, it means that the battery has transitioned from being a battery to being a load resistor. I'm pretty sure that's what triggers the leakage mechanism. The weakest battery in the string will flip first, the danger of a series stack like you get in a 9V battery.
I don’t know about that. I just tossed a Rayovac that had never been used, it leaked in its original packaging. So leaking can occur with no electricity actually flowing ...
I love using 9V cells for some of my opamp xeperiments or mic preamplifiers for out going jobs. Unfortunately Lithium 9V are overpriced per Wh, and li-ion 8.4v rechargables I founds are not very reliable or has noisy drainky 3.7v charge pump.
I really like LiFePO4-based 9V cells. No problems with lower voltage (9.6V nominal), and the ones I got will happily put out up to 2A with hardly any voltage drop, minimal self-discharge and all the other nice lithium stuff..
If only they were about 5x cheaper..
@@Basement-Science are they charged by a 5v micro usb input on the butt?
@@rabbithazel3034 Nope. They came with a specialized charger because I'm pretty sure they have no electronics apart from a protection circuit in there.
@@Basement-Science I guess they'd use 3x lifepo4 cells in series.. which would give about 9.9v, max 10.8v.
I couldn't find any 9v lifepo4 batteries.
Never seen that before..
Duracells are terrible, had one leak just sitting on my desk....
This is why I have started using non-rechargeable lithium batteries in test equipment that I seldom use. I can leave the batteries installed and not worry about them leaking. They cost a little more but it saves the hassle of removing and installing batteries to guard against leakage.
All Duracells leak...
6 x AAAA, huh, learned something new! 😊👍
2:39 There they are, 6 AAAA sized batteries.
I’ve switched to lithium AA, AAA, and 9V on my pricey test equipment. The cost is quite high upfront, but I haven’t had any issues with them leaking. They last quite a long time with that wacky quirk of dropping off the plateau at their end of life. Anyone experienced them leaking over there useful life?
Not in use (I use PP3 9V lithium batteries, in smoke alarms and test gear). However I ordered some from a legitimate electronics supply company once, and one of the four in the order had leaked in it’s packaging (the usual vacuum formed plastic and cardboard type). They sent a replacement once I explained the problem. I don’t know if this was simply a manufacturing fault. It was well within the date code.
It cannot be beyond the wit of engineers to encase the batteries to stop the content from damaging the electronics in which they are placed. Failing that, why are battery compartments of equipment not sealed against the leak of the corrosive battery contents?
The paranoid might conclude that there is a conspiracy to make the equipment fail and require early replacement.
It can't be that expensive to add a squirt of hot melt glue, where the battery wires enter the battery compartment, to stop any of the corrosive liquid from making it onto the equipment circuit boards. The classic example of this failure must be the TV remote control, where the entry point for the battery spring clips, allow the leakage from the battery to etch away the connecting PCB.
The leaking batteries corrode the terminals of the device in which they leaked; that is the real problem, because if you don’t remove all of the corrosive material and neutralize any corrosion that occurred, the next battery in can leak. And if the battery electrolyte can escape the battery casing, then the battery terminals of the device are in for that corrosion.
@@stevebabiak6997 I understand the mechanism and the chemistry, but there are still ways to keep the electrolyte contained.
Certainly product manufactures could ensure that the leak is contained within the battery compartment and not allowed to escape into the products electronics, where it corrodes tracks. The battery compartment electrodes can be electroplated against chemical attack. Provided the battery compartment is water proof, the battery electrolyte salts can be removed with distilled water, followed by IPA.
In the US, a lot of 9-volts have a stack of rectangular cells, instead of AAAAs.
Interestingly I just pulled apart a 9V Duracell and it too had a stack similar to what you used to see in carbon ones. And I'm in Australia. Has a nice clear case containing all of them. Worth pulling apart just for the visual.
I see 9 volt batteries leak all the time-quite common.
That’s interesting I almost never see it unless they have gone totally flat and they are probably the most common non-rechargeable battery I use nowadays.
Was Duracell the company that warrantied the batteries not to leak? If the device was damaged from a leaking Duracell the add use to state they would replace or repair your device.
Fake Duracell will mainly by found at smaller retailers, l have some that even say: made in America.
Have a good one.
I have not seen a duracell leaking and therefore we are usually buying those since energizer had been sucking.
We use them a lot due to 10 years warranty and we do not reach the limit of 10 years cause they will be done earlier, even in multimeter usage cause once in a while you simply forget to turn it off so the power drain goes on and batter life is over after maybe 5 years.
But maybe different qualities here in europe cause we do not have this color sheme at all: simply the good old copper colored style since the 80s and the ads from that era bunnies jumping around
Used to use a lot of duracell's but the AA & AAA batteries either don't fit or fit tight into remote controls and the covers won't go on right from the amount of plastic shrink wrap so gave up on them...
6 cells in a plastic case... our duracell 9V batteries in the UK are still metal cased... no idea if it's small cells or if the metal ones are a single cell in their own right.
can confirm surface pen takes aaaa
Maybe you could reverse charge a battery and see if it leaks. Safety warning. Sort of Hydraulic Press Channel
Connecting 6v to an alkaline battery will make it leak. Don't ask how I know ;)
All the ones I recently tore apart were steel cases and had the snaps which I recovered for later use.
I had Duracell 9V explode on me when I took it apart in a middle of the street. Lately there are some batteries made in plastic case (Plough, Westrom, Duracell)._
i wonder 4.5V battery was ever made with just singular cell rather than the 3 B-cells as is more common for a while.
Genuinely interesting how form factors are usually just a legacy thing now since most less popular ones tend to be just another battery inside shell that fits in particular slot.
They are slightly smaller than AAAA - they are made so that, when finished with an insulating wrapping around the outside, nipple for the positive top and flat plate for the base, they would be AAAA size.
I must admit leaky Batteries Drive me nuts and it does seem I have had lots of Duracells leak.
Whatever happened to leak-proof batteries?
alright so .. I'm amassing a collection of old calculators .. what should I stick in 'em .. low capacity ENELOOPS are still expensive and kind of a waste ..
I'm thinking of silver coin cells wired instead of the AAs .. those don't leak that much, do they!?
Not fake but not primary source either I doubt Durra use that factory anymore
I think it's far too easy to get your factory on the approved list, hence all the leaky crap that's about,
I'm sure Duffcell don't care... As long as the licensing money is rolling in
No more wreak!
Mmmm, to buy 6 AAA's or possibly save money and buy a single 9v. The tight ass in me must investigate.
except not all contain AAAA's, some contain 5/6 squat rectangular cells stacked on top of each other.
I think that battery is a clone, because Duracell are normally not made in China. I personally use Varta batteries, because they are good quality and value for money.
0805 8mm x 50mm? Like 1865?
So 18650s in power tools?? They’re apot welded together with a thin tin metal band.
If replacing 18650s in power tool battery. How would I do a proper job... I’ve tried soldering but messy job, and because of high amps would soldering be upto the job
Terra (computes Germany) Pens, and other touch pens use aaaa type batteries, it is a bad systeme.
Also those quadruple a batteries are used in some devices just not very often you don't see him much but you can get them in retail packaging.
I do believe that's probably the least used and on a side battery I've ever run across.
They started out being used some pin lights and also early laser pointers
At least that's when I first found out about them.
And sometimes medical devices but not sure exactly what but I know they are used occasionally.
But also if you have that 9-volt and you're needing aaa's and of course the battery is a good battery you split them open and extract individual cells and you can use them in AAA applications I don't remember if you need to fill the battery compartment out with aluminum foil or anything but I know that it can be done.
Just like you would use Triple A's instead of Double A's of course on both ways a capacity decrease but in a pinch it would work.
I once ran a NOAA Weather Radio on Triple A's instead of Double A's
And also certain 6 volt Lantern batteries use for f cells the big round ones that the two of those combined equal 3 is it C or D cells I can't remember the links that is of course it's only going to be three bolts instead of 4.5 but it will run a flashlight design for that although LEDs are more successfully run that way
Zinc carbon is much worse in leaking and the electrolyte is acidic so it corrodes metal.
Sponsored by KOH brothers :P
Battery size fonzie AAAA
Dave? How many subs approx did you have ? Say 5 years ago?
Your views seem low, and I dunno why? Am I wrong? Tell me if I am?
Your content is good, quality good . Everything good . I d just like to see more views that’s all m8
you realy like to open batteries Dave 😂
Had 4x or 6x Duracell AA batteries in a PS3 game controller for Drum Hero (I think) and after growing up stored it away in a very cool and dry place, away from any problematic moisture ingress or physical damage. Ended up opening the damn thing after a couple of years to try assemble it and play a little (for old times sake). Forgot I had left the cells in there! Don't need to say, there was acid residue all over the controller and all of them were leaking their brains out. All original, brand name Duracells and got all of them destroying my equipment. Had a lot of Pairdeers and cheapo name cells in keyboards, pc mouse and flashlights, etc. never had a single leak except for some Phillips who were abused inside a remote TV controller. Duracell are just awfull. Don't buy into their cool marketing. My preference... PANASONIC or Fujistu cells.
Wouldn't it be prudent to wear gloves when handling a leaking battery..? No? ..Ok.
I beg to differ on 9V Duracell batteries leaking. They do eventually. Often puffing out the plastic bottom piece. However in the past, the most common failure mode that prevented a normal lifespan was one or more cells either having poorly spot welded metal links or slight leakage from a cell (but within the battery casing) causing the welded metal links to fail where they were spot welded onto the cell terminals. Either way, the effective internal resistance of the 9V battery increased causing either the electronic devices to complain about a low battery or it would only work intermittently. Hence often it never had the chance to leak alkaline gunk into the product it was being used in.
I thought Duracell were supposed to leak... rubbish over hyped by advertising.
Used Energizer alkaline for many years, long shelf life but it depends where they are manufactured, best are from Singapore, 2nd Indonesia, only had 2 leak in 10 years, if no manufacture listed on the battery they are rubbish or counterfeit.
I once had a small radio that reversed charged AA battery to like 1V I dont remember
I don’t think I have had a 9v battery leak since the 90s. Then again I mostly use rechargeable ones nowadays.
I quite often find leaking 9V batteries in various equipment, both namebrands and non-namebrands batteries. Guess I'm just unlucky in that regard :P
I remember having one or maybe two to leak for me during the last 25 years. I have them in my smoke detectors, multimetets and few other instruments. I only use NiMH in AA / AAA size but I only have two in "9V" format.
I have so good experience (almost two decades) with 18650 that I'm considering to move to rechargeable Li-ion tech in all applications except the most sensitive ones benefitting from no-ripple power source. (Though my 10440 have not been that durable.) Here is a nice AA 1,5V Li-ion test:
ruclips.net/video/CzZrB974Zro/видео.html
@@Gin-toki really unlucky (at least judging from my experience)unless you don’t use your stuff all that much or don’t swap them out when they are discharged. I use mine in pretty horrible environments on exploration sites and mine sites (as well as just sitting in a stupidly hot car all day most days)
@@glenecollins Granted, I do forget to change them in some of my own equipment from time to time, but I mainly encounter leaked 9V in testequipment at my workplaces and have encountered it numerous times over the years. Especially when working at a UNI and taking care of the equipment in the laboratories. Students rarely care about the equipment there :P
@@Gin-toki I have been pretty lucky with that, the tradies, geotechs and professionals I work with have generally been a bit tough on their equipment but they keep charged batteries in them and all of the stuff that just does monitoring either gets replaced when the lithium cells in them go flat or are run on rechargeable lithium ion polymer batteries and solar cells.
Before I had to deal with that stuff apparently they used NiMH batteries and crappy charging circuits and they used to just eat out the inside of the equipment (if you didn’t check it often enough) which was a lot more expensive to fix or replace than it would be now.
Wow. 9v leaks are new to me... i dont expect anything from duracells...
The duralock version from duracell is garbage. Especially for maglite flashlights. They work great for a couple hours then go dim. Switch to energizer and haven't looked back.
Ugh, krusty burger alright. I severely dislike that chemical mess and try to keep track of the batteries in my gear. Dang, I'm typing along as I'm watching and it seems Dave is reading my comment.
"Leaky Duracell" is a pleonasm, since leaking is an intrinsic property of Duracells.
What is Duralock, really?
that's interesting. mine just blew up
The metal on the wrapper is probably aluminium. The alkaline electrolyte dissolved it.
Looks like a counterfeit Duracell battery. The Duralock label means it frankly won't leak on you under any circumstances from my experience. I notice living in Australia I have to be more careful looking out for counterfeit products, requiring me to contact the manufacturers to double-check things.
They leak even in the package as do Duracell Ultra and Quantum and Optimum even new still in the packaging. Duracell are avoided in my household.
don't buy the 9v nimh rechargeable batteries. they tend to go POP! because the designs usually have no venting.
Does a battery needs to be empty before it leaks?
Yeesh... curiosity - were 9V batteries always like this, or it became a cost cutting measure overtime? I mean, using multiple AAAA batteries there instead of an unique design for 9V?
I guess it's not as eggregious as fake 18650s that actually have a tiny LiPo pack inside, but still...