Can Anyone Be A Machinist?
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- Опубликовано: 20 июн 2023
- Best way to learn something new is to jump in and start doing it!
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32 Year Machinist Here. Your one hell of a good hip shooter!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 3/16 to 1/2 to 3/4 to 1-1/8. PERFECT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Drill RPM PERFECT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Blessings to you and your Beautiful Family!!!!!!!!!!
Annular cutters work pretty well for that kind of work. A mag drill also makes it way easier.
Machinist here. Annular cutters work best for drilling holes this size through shallow material. They are essentially a machinist's hole saw. They are worth every penny and not too expensive
I started my toolmaking apprenticeship in 1967 an retired early at age 54, so we didn't have Annular cutters. Heck, we didn't even have cutoff disks, and I have killed to have had those. I see the annular cutters used a lot on mag drills. In fact they tend to come as a kit and that would be a good way to buy them, because who the heck has a radial drill in their home shop?
That was my first thought. We use annular cutters on our rail drills that are 1 1/8. The thickness of the web of the rail isn't far from the end of this fork.
The cost per hole of annular cutters, for how often Scott needs to ever do this, when he's not worried about production time, make them a complete waste of money. This worked just fine, and would for the next 300 similarly sized holes he has to drill. You have to give advice within the context of who's receiving it.
They are great tools, but I have to agree, that you use what you have. The lowest cost with acceptable tolerance. Production cost/time is not just on the task, but also the overheads of time and money to buy the tool. 2 holes would not satisfy economy of scale.
@@MattsAwesomeStuffBut he asked machinists to tell in the comments how to do it right so we can all learn.
I'd recommend getting a copy of the Machinery's handbook.
It's basically the dictionary for machining and is full of tables and explanations of how to calculate the perfect spindle speed and feed rate based on the material you're cutting and the tool you're using.
Can be a nice reference for these jobs. 🙂
Also, if ever you're using a Jakob's chuck, it's best to tighten from all three dots to fully secure the tool bit inside.
Just securing from one dot will give you less tool pressure and can sometimes make the tool fall out midcut.
I have my grandfather's "Machinery's Handbook". I think the copyright date is 1938. The old-timers figured out formulas and tables and processes for stuff I didn't even know was important. Grampaw was a life-long machinist. I got his tools and books when he got too feeble to care. I have the advantage of old information and modern hand tools. The old heavy machines' accuracy and quality remain on-par with the digital stuff we've got now.
I'm passing my experience and tools and books on to my sons.
As a hobbyist machinist I have great respect for drilling holes. Every hole has a cost in effort and machine tool wear. And, that climbs exponentially with the total volume of the hole. A copy of The Machinist Handbook, used is fine, will help with feeds and speeds.
Speed and feed, key words!!!
Everybody seems to have added their two cents on the drilling of the hole so I'm going to add mine on the hole itself. I have several buddies that have done the same thing. Of three forks that have been drilled like you did, two have been bent off after a couple of years. The moment arm of the ball and the trailer have bent the tip of the fork at the centerline of the hole and after one or two straightenings resulted in fatigue breaks. Since you have to bolt the ball on each time you need to use it, just build a slip-on channel that holds the ball (or, a receiver hitch mount) and a clamp bolt or chain tie-back to the headache rack. You might not be a "machinist" but you are a blacksmith.
This is the way, saves modifying your forks, and is quicker to install and remove
Nice work
For my pallet forks I've made a slip on hitch out of tubing and welded trailer balls onto the tubing. I have 2" on one end and 2" 5/16 on the other end. And a hole in the middle for a draw pin to hold it on
For starters, I love your channel. Just a FYI, drilling a hole in a fork is huge OSHA and safety violation.
I love machining forklift tine. Cuts nicely and it's a good material for a lot of projects (it's a medium carbon steel that is very tough, but not actually hard)
Machinist here. We also shoot from the hip. Feeds and speeds are guidelines for unknown values. From there you will fine tune by sight and sound which is exactly what you showed.
Id recommend making use of the MT shank bits next time for the larger diameter holes. Lucky for you, the jaws in your jacobs chuck werent shot like a lot of ours are. Thanks for sharing.
An easy to remember formula for high speed cutting tools that I taught my student machinists over the years was as follows: 4 x c.s./tool diameter. C.S. Steel=100 C.S. Aluminum=200. Using your 1 1/8” bit in steel, 4x100/ 1.125=355 rpm. (The only exception are reamers which require half or less of the rpm and twice the feed rate with proper lubricant.) I’m sure there are more exacting formulas, but this one gets you well within the ball park. It is better to error on the slow side than to burn up your cutting tool by running it too fast. All of this assumes sharp tools.
vc=(d x pi x n)/1000
I was taught this also. The formula is very close to exact. RPM = SFM/(pi * diameter in feet) = 12*SFM/(pi * diameter in inches) = 3.819*SFM/(diameter in inches) ~ 4*SFM/(diameter in inches)
I’ve never been a fan of having to take the ball on and off of a hole in a fork. Mainly because I’ll always lose the ball that isn’t on a hitch. My solution was a box, open on one end to slide over the fork, welded a ball to to the end nearest to end of the fork, and on the end closest to the machine, weld a length of chain long enough to go around the frame assembly of the forks, and hook it back to itself. Slides on and off in seconds, no looking for a loose ball, and having to screw it on and off, and I never loose the ball box
The slide on fork box is the way to go. I got a good chewin out for drilling the end of a fork for a ball, by a fork lift tech.
that's what I've always used, it's faster the 1st time than drilling and faster than installing the ball every other time, and like you said you don't lose it as easily if you hang it from the lift
Forks are usually 4140 or 4130 they are heat treated but tempered back quite a bit 30-40 Rc. They do wear on the bottom and they have some pretty tight specifications for wear and bending to determine replacement. You should not have any problem drilling the tip of the fork with HSS bits, use lube, don't be in hurry. The bigger the bit the slower the speed. An annular cutter would of been the best tool do it in one shot. I play a machinist on You Tube.
I have seen a lot of your videos. Always enjoyed your content.
@@jeffmays3608 Thanks Jeff.
Played one on a submarine I hear too...!!
👍👍
Like a lot of other guys have said, an annular cutter is the tool for this, but progressive drilling works. General rough calculation that will get you in the ballpark with hobby work is cutting speedx4/diameter. Cutting speed of material changes and the diameter will change whether you are drilling and milling or turning. The exact formula and cutting speeds are easy to find online or in the Machinery's Handbook.
Watching At 4:50, my Paw would always tell me, the first few times you do something new, it's gonna be hard, and you'll make A LOT of mistakes, but after a few tries, you can make something your proud of. Never give up, and never feel sorry for learning something new. You'll get there eventually.
A good tip for down pressure, if your chips are little c's, try a bit more force. exception is a small bit making the pilot hole, sometimes you just can push them.
and for breaking through the other side, or if drill thin stock, "brassing" the flutes helps a great deal. the tiniest amount of "brassing" you can do the better, and it stops the drill grabbing. your just putting a tiny flat spot along the cutting edge of the flute. i think abom79 has a video on it
The cutting speed for high carbon steel is around 80 sfm. Times that by 4 and then divide the product by the diameter of your drillbit and thats the rpm you need 👍. Thats what we have been using in my machine shop class anyways. Hope this helps.
I'd love to have your drill press! On the ranch we just blew a hole through them with a cutting torch - the heat never seemed to bother them. We lifted stuff we probably never should have been lifting and they held up fine.
Thank you for your time
You got er done without losing an eye or getting a sleeve wrapped up in the chuck. Success!
Well done. Just read comments of suggesting the right tool for the job, but still. I like how you improvised and still got the job done.
I remember my father doing it like this back in 85 with a cutting torch. it does not weaken the Fork like some people may say it works just fine and who's using the tip for anyting anyway you can also drill it if you want a prettier whole bottom line is the ball will come loose and the threads on the ball will strip out you just need a drop it in the hole and barely hook it up maybe even with a pin. OSHA will frown on it. OSHA does frown on it.
I just found you through buckin billy ray , he's good people, ✌️ and ❤️ from deadwood Oregon 🌲
Keep up the good work!
Thank you for the awesome content and amazing videos!!!
One additional comment about what you said at the end. The magic never happens inside the comfort zone, we all learn and grow by trying things we've never done before. You did an amazing job for shooting from the hip, and even if you had blunted several tools and broken a couple of drills trying, you would have learned something and the learning is worth the journey. I guess what I'm trying to say is that trying stuff you don't know how to do is how you learn to do it and what separates people for who have a lot of skills from people have few skills is being unafraid to try, and I can tell you have that trait.
It is an incredibly rewarding thing to expand one's skills enough to encompass a problem that you didn't know how to fix before. A good example, someone brought me a broken piece of brass furniture and asked me to fix it. I had never silver soldered before but I'd done some research and I wasn't afraid to give it a shot. After a bit of research doing some practice and test pieces, and being unafraid to try I got it done. This doesn't make me special or unique or anything like that, anybody who wants to learn a skill and can invest the time and interest and not be afraid to try and not be afraid to mess up can do the very same thing. It's empowering and wonderful and I highly recommend everybody try something they don't know how to do because you will learn how to do it with enough practice.
Yep. Nailed it. You've clearly been in the shop long enough to know.
Most of what I've said has been said below but I wanted to add my two cents because I think you did a great job shooting from the hip.
I am a certified machinist but I don't work in a shop. Other than not getting your cutting speeds from machineries handbook or at least a good estimation, you did good. Drilling good holes in metal is all about finding the right cutting speed, using a sharp bit, cutting oil and plenty of down pressure. As Quinn from Blondie hacks says, it's called a drill press for a reason.
In my 24th edition of machinery's handbook drilling speeds are handled on page 1033. The first half of the book 🙂
For a high-speed steel in most playing carbon steel alloys you are looking at a feet per minute cutting speed of between 20 and 75 feet per minute, depending on the exact nature of the steel. Your 1/2 in drill at 300 RPM gives you 40 fpm which is squarely within the range. The 3/16 drill at 500 RPM was actually turning under 40, so you were almost in danger of going under speed which is a good way to snap a drill.
For the big drill 40 ft per minute cutting speed is equivalent to 130 RPM, so you're in the ballpark there too. Obviously with any machining operation if you're encountering chatter or if you're set up isn't as rigid as you would like it to be your tool isn't sharp as you'd like it to be you can vary the speed to suit the conditions. The numbers in machinerys handbook are not gospel they are suggestions.
The only thing I might have done different besides maybe calculating the speeds even though you got them pretty much spot on, would be to use the Morse taper bit. As you found out Jacob's trucks can have a pretty serious lack of grip and rigidity and both are Paramount critical importance in machining operations.
I really enjoyed this video and even if other people already gave you this answer I really enjoyed diving into my machinerys handbook to look it up for you. I have a teeny tiny little machine shop in my garage and if you're ever in the Washington DC area you're welcome to come make chips with me. 😁
Great video and also very envious of your drill press, that is an amazing machine.
Thanks for sharing your videos and keep them coming please.
In our shop the guys just fired up a oxy/acetylene torch and blew a hole in the fork for a one inch bolt by six inches so they could hook up to trailers (with a pintle ring). They moved trailers around where they needed them without the trailer sliding off the fork. Not really answering your question but another way of skinning the cat.
What an old timer always told me was for challenging drill tasks, you want high downward pressure, and SLOW speed. Many drill presses with 2 pulleys instead of 3 wont go as slow as you would want them to. And use oil cool the bit as its drilling. I'm sure there is much more to it, but that dead simple rule has served me quite well in the garage so far....!!!
Wise old man taught me the same when I was young,, he added one other tidbit also,, the flater the tip the better it cuts thru the harder metals,, used the method for years on truck frames and stainless steel tanks,,,
You can slow down an old drill press enough to count the revolutions !
Already plenty of good commenters with good advice..
The YT DIY/Shop community is awesome 👍👍
"I don't know what it should be, but I know what I'm gonna try" ah bless it
I forget where it came from, but I have a handy chart (¨Drill Press Speed Chart¨) on the wall next to my drill press that has the various speeds for drilling holes depending on the type and size of drill bit and what you are drilling. Takes the guesswork out of the equation and has helped me a lot over the years.
550 rpm is probably a bit slow for a bit that small.
I've been a machinist, I will often use scrap carbide bits to rough out holes and save the hss bits for the final size, especially with material that's potentially very hard.
i hate to say it is a trial and error deal or using what you have available. the focus is do what you have to get the job done. as scott asked he wants to know.a better way to do it the next time he has to do it again. as he pointed out he got the job done. better results next time. i think having a ball hitch on a tractor or skid steer is great for moving trailers and stuff ....
@@mrwaterschoot5617 your absolutely right, I just want to say that as a rule of thumb, small drills high speed, big drills low speed.
@@seanflorian4653wow its almost like surface footage is constant
At the upper end of what you can cut with carbide (45 hrc or so) I have had good success with going as slow as 60 SFPM.
Did a fine job sir!
Well done
Keep up the good work
As someone who works for the largest manufacturer of forks in the world, I have drilled (and tapped), thousands of holes in forks during my early career prior to moving into engineering. Forks are typically 15B30 in the smaller sizes like that, a high boron steel for toughness and wear resistance but not particularly hard. Any heat treating is usually in the area of the heel. Larger sections are 4140, but very rarely anything much more exotic than that.
As far as machining, keep your speed down, feed reasonable, and plenty of oil/coolant with a sharp bit and it cuts just fine
Thank you for sharing. Would you tell me what type of bits did you use?
In my days, it was your standard 118 degree, HSS twist drills. Now they run inserted carbide K-tips with thru spindle coolant for much higher production rates
I owned a Hougen Porta Mag for many years. It came with Annular cutters. I found through using them that oil flood with a strong even slow feed with no chip breaking whatsoever worked well in up to 1/2” plate.
I had to do the same thing at work. No one knew how to drill it. So I use the water jet worked like a charm. They didn’t wanna put a ball in the hole. They want to put a pin to stop stuff from rolling off it worked great.
When drilling into anything particularly hard, I've used endmills when drills go too slow. As long as you use a collet instead of a chuck, a center cutting endmill and break the chip / clean the hole often, works great. the rpm and feed pressure are a bit less important, and is a great way to make the pilot hole. After that i'll go back to drilling depending on the size hole.
Also spade bits are just about the perfect choice, if you have the power to turn them. No pilot hole needed, can go about as large a hole as you want in one pass. Only downside is if there is a pilot hole already, spade bits no the way to go
Thank you! I've needed to do this, and of course, you send out a video of doing it! Lol
Another task to complete...I enjoy!
Speeds and feeds are generally available from the tool manufacturer. Material manufacturer also can help. Best thing is "Suck it and see" approch. Generally larger diameter lower speeds as the cutting edge has higher friction and more work/heat. Work hardening to be avoided on carbon steel. Drill cutting angle and cutting fluid type will vary speeds and feeds also.
Im amazed you made it
Get yourself a machinists handbook, it has equations on drill speeds wich depend greatly on the material of your drill and the material you are drilling
Actually the title of the publication is "Machinery's Handbook". It is presently in its 31st addition. The first addition was published in 1914.
@@SandBoxJohn You can always tell the old timer in the shop by what edition he's got sitting around. I think the oldest I've ever seen in the wild was a 17th edition (1964). My personal edition is a 27th (2004)... and I'm getting more gray every day. 😆
I'm an electrician and have lots of experience with carbide hole saws, that's what I used for the forks on my tractor. Of course this is before I had a mill or annular cutters. Carbides work if you don't have the gear for annular cutters. Sure would love to have a mag drill
Regarding the feeds and speeds, there's one simple trick that every professional machinist uses to quickly figure it out: you look it up in the Machinery's Handbook.
When you're stepping up in drill sizes, the general rule is to take your final size drill and measure the width of the web at the tip, and use a bit just slightly larger than that to drill your pilot hole. If that second bit still ends up being rather large, use the same technique to find the right size of pilot for it too, and so on. This doesn't apply to split-point bits, which you should be able to push through in one go without a pilot hole.
For the reduced shank aka silver & deming bits, it can be helpful to grind three flats on the shank to help prevent the bit slipping in the chuck.
Done my apprenticeship in fitter/machining over 40 years ago so I have forgot more than I have learnt.....ha..ha! Scott you got the job done and no tools were hurt so in the trade that is called A BLOODY GREAT JOB. 😂 G'day from Tasmania, Australia where its raining cats and dogs at the moment!
The best rule of thumb I ever got for drill bit rpm was from an old-school toolmaker. For HSS drill bits on most steel, start your bit slow and increase the rpm until the flutes just blur. This has served me well for 25 years.
Did this exact procedure to both of my forklift forks using annular cutters and a magnetic base drill.
Love seeing the crane in action!
I got 2 years of experience working in a job shop doing work for shipyards and engineering companies as an apprentice machinist. I regularly drill 2.500" diameter holes in 4140 6"+ deep on a lathe with hand sharpened HSS drills and no pilot holes and run a CNC.
You need a better way to hold those drills than a 3 jaw jacobs chuck. Those reduced shank screw machine length drills are not made to be held in a 3 jaw chuck and they are made to plow through material in one pass. They will mutually destroy themselves and your chuck. Most of these drills have very standard shanks like .500" so you can get a Morse Taper end mill holder and grind a flat in your drill shanks to tighten a set screw into, or you can buy a Morse Taper to ER32 or ER40 collet adapter, just make sure these adapters have a protruding tang on their tapers so you can use a drill drift to remove them from the spindle. This is a much stronger setup than a 3 jaw chuck holding a reduced shank drill. The chuck will always slip before you push the drill at all.
With the tools you have I would have pilot drilled a 1/4 hole and then switched to a 1 1/8 morse taper drill and sent it through with the power feed and the highest feed rate I could get with nice chips and happy machine noises. These drills cool themselves as long as they are making a big enough chip and you aren't going too fast with too little oil. I would hand sharpen these drills with good symmetry and then stone the burr/razor edge off the cutting lip to strengthen the cutting edge and reduce sharpness as an excessively sharp edge will grab and pull itself into the material, creating chatter, chipped edges, and profanity.
Annular cutters are nice to have but for a home shop they are really pointless. You need to send them to a specialized shop to resharpen them, and you don't need that speed. Morse Taper drills can be sharpened on a bench grinder and bought very cheaply on ebay. As long as you dont break the drill, it will last more than a lifetime.
Maybe you could forge a wedge shaped washer to give the lock washer something square to seat on.
I agree with the comments…. And annular cutter is great for big holes primarily because they don’t have to turn all of the removed material into chips and heat. As for speeds…. Take a little time and make a chart and hang it near your drill press. Speeds for various materials and drill sizes. I refer to mine almost every time I use my drill press. Thanks for sharing your time and many talents. All the best! Chuck
I agree with another commenter, no drilling of forks.
A short section of rect. steel pipe with a chain welded to it to run back to the head of the forklift where it can be clamped or link-coupled.
Easy to store somewhere on the skidsteer/tractor since it only needs to be ~4-5" long and length of chain, and most importantly, doesn't compromise a fork.
Odd though, wouldn't a chain with a ball hitch attached to one end not work also? Or a pipe within a pipe (collapsable) that can clamp onto the fork head with a ball on the other end?
My first "anvil" was a piece of fork that I cut off a scrap fork lift. Took a few cutting disks on the angle grinder to get thru it. Did a lot of blacksmithing with it as I was getting started. I have no experience with drill speeds - other that the other comments about slow and steady.
We put holes in both forks. very handy for using bull pins to keep slings or whatever from sliding off. or a choice for which fork for the trailer ball, sometimes handy in tight quarters. We used a mag drill with annular cutter.
Most steel are 100 feet per minute.
The goal in drilling is to move as fast as you can without overheating the drill.
The math for a 1/2 inch drill would be .5 inch/12inches per foot = .042 feet diameter then multiply by 3.14(pie) to get the circumference of the outside of the drill and that's .132 feet in circumference then take your 100 feet per minutes speed limit and divide that by the .132 feet circumference and you get 757 RPM speed limit.
It's just about converting diameter from inches to feet then from diameter to circumference then divide 100 by that.
Scott we drill a lot of holes at my shop and one thing that I found is using tap magic or / Boe lube / or cutting and drilling fluid makes a big difference in the life of the bit and the quality of the hole …
The formula for cutter RPM is
3.82 X Cutting Speed / Diameter
The cutting speed is based on the material and the cutter. For mild steel being cut with a High Speed Steel Tool the cutting speed is 100 surface feet per minute. This is the same for drilling, milling, turning, boring, or any machining process. As you point out, the fork is probably a high carbon steel which will limit the cutters ability to produce a chip. For high carbon steel lets use a cutting speed of 60 SFM.
So for your 3/16 Drill
3.82 X 60 / .187 = 1225 RPM
Sounds Fast, but with steady pressure, it will definitely cut. 3/16 is a good starter. When drilling with 1" plus drills, I like to look at the drill point of the final drill size. Drill slightly larger than the drill point. a 1-1/8 Drill point is probably around a 1/4 or so. So as long as your pilot is bigger than the point, your good. You have a good sturdy machine which is more than capable of running your final drill size from one pilot drill.
For the 1-1/8" Drill
3.82 X 60 / 1.125 = 203 RPM
Drills love feed pressure, so feed them as hard as your setup will allow. If you have a Morse Taper drill, use it! Whenever you can "choke up" on your setup or eliminate parts like the Jacob's chuck, the cut will go much more smoothly.
For cutter lube the best thing for bush machining is automatic transmission fluid. The cheaper the better. ATF has a high sulfur content. Sulfur is great for providing lubricity at high temps ( that's why sulfur is/was added to diesel fuel).
Great content! Happy machining!
I had to drill a hole in an axle shaft one time, a ford axle shaft. I used the concrete bit which has a carbide tip, sharpened like a steel drilling drill bit. i had to keep resharping it because axle shafts are case hardened, in the center of the steel it's actually a little bit softer then the outside.
I love u Chanel and all the work u do tanks for compartir in me old job we did that we’d torch to move trailers and junck 😂
Hey just watch u and buckin. Been watching you guys from beginning.
Without getting into a lot of speed & feed formulas, the smoke coming off the larger diameter drill is telling you to SLOW DOWN. Another thing that's somewhat counter-intuitive, is that INCREASING the feed rate ( making heavier, thicker chips ) helps carry the heat away from the cutting edge. If the chips start to turn brown, or blue, you need to decrease the RPM and increase the feed pressure.
There’s manganese in there too, the carbon isn’t super high, but what you get is a thing called “the carbon equivalent “ it starts Mn/6 then off it goes, you can look it up it too much to stick in a comment so the apparent properties differ from the chemical properties.
I do love metallurgy, he did it, I wasn’t in the least surprised, he’s a good man, humble and talented at the same time
Machinist here too: Carbide or cobalt drills and then carbide boring bar in a boring head would be far more useful and versatile for his needs. We have a few annular cutters, and rarely use them because they're only HSS and rarely the size needed.
It looks great to me, sometimes when we get outside our area of expertise it just has to do its job! And that definitely will do the trick!!
Machinist-of-JOY !
Machinist here, If I have an option of cutting a hole with a morse tapered bit in a radial drill press thats the road Im taking rather than jacobs chuck and a small shank jobber drill. Annular hole cutters are a damn good option too... plenty of coolant too.
I run a Peddinghaus drill line and a plate processor, and a Lincoln Electric Python X2 and I’ve always wanted to take things further and become a full fledged machinist. We have limited milling capabilities on the cad programs but never use them.
Just on suggestion. Weld wings on the nut, it will make hand tightening and removal easier plus tool-less.
I was thinking along the same lines but by drilling a hole and useing a pin
2:06 I don't know what it should be, but that's what I'm going to try.
That's how I live my life!
It worked and you used what you had. And it does what you need.
So speeds and feeds are a fairly simple equation. You need your variables. Being Drill size (could also be part size if it was a lathe or the size of your milling cutter.) In your case its 1-1/8" or roughly 28mm. You then need the surface Speed. That being how far the ohter edge of the drill/part/milling cutter passes in a minute. So a General purpose High Speed Steel bit should in a mild steel travel 24-30 metres/minute. Or 78 to 100 Feet/Min. Now to plug that in.
For Metric The Formula is RPM=(1000/Pi)x(Surface Speed/Diametre) or 318x(24/28) Which Equals = 272.57 Rpm. All diametres being in millimetres and speeds in Metres/Min
For Imperial that would be RPM=(12/Pi)x(Surface Speed/Diametre) or 3.82x(78/1.125) Which Equals = 264 RPM (theres some rouding errors converting units but it needs to be usable for daily use.) with Diametres being in Inches and Speeds in Feet.
Now a Machinary handbook or manufacture has the specs usually on the SFM (surface foot/min or m/Min (metres/min). HSS in Mild steel is listed above. Different Coatings Can dramatically increase these speeds. Same as cooling from flood coolants. Carbide usually is approx 4-5 times the speed so in mild steel You'd use 120-150 m/min or 393 SFM to 492 SFM.
Now Forklift tynes are usually a Heat treated grade of something similar to a 1045/4140/4130 Steel. Meaning theyre fairly strong but not massively hard in the scheme of things. With Carbide and ideally Cobalt Drills/turning tools its a beautiful material. HSS its doable but not ideal. Id by running around 15-18m/min or 50-60 SFM speeds. So around 150-170 RPM with decent cooling/Lubrication.
Now Feed Rates. This depends once again on Rigidity of Equipment drill type and more importantly the Size. So a small 6mm or 1/4" drill you want Approx 0.05mm or 0.002" feed per revolution. For something larger like the 1-1/8" you might want something more in the 0.2mm/rev or 0.008" range. Now If youre not machine feeding it this will be heavy effort on any handle you have on your drill. Notice when you started drilling the hole and you had little shavings that started to curl up into nice streamers. Then when you hand fed it it was rubbing and not cutting nicely. You likely had a blunt drill with not enough pressure. Now not being a morse taper limits your feed alot but if that wasnt a factor Send that drill hard. It's a very common mistake for new machinists to think if something squeals to back off. You need to figure out is that squeal chatter in which case you need to go easier to reduce vibrations or rigidity required. Or is that rubbing and you need to go harder. That question troubles every machinist no matter the experience level.
I hope that short essay gives some context but if you take nothing else out. The formula for your measurement system and have a quick google what people run HSS or Cobalt Drills or whatever your using in your chosen material will get you in the ballpark then you can fine tune by what you see happening in front of you. If the chips are blue but the drill isnt. Sweet Let her rip. If the Drill is discolouring maybe slow it as youre burning your drill and potentially softening it.
That comment should be pinned, because that's how you calculate it!
One thing to add is the drill point geometry.
140° tough steel
135° stainless
118° mild steel (most common HSS drills)
Cutting speed (Feet per minute)
Stainless 40
Tool steel 60
Cast iron 80
Malleable iron 90
Medium carbon steel 100
Free cutting steel 140
Aluminum/Brass 200
Wood/Plastic 300
Feeds per revolution
1/8 0.001-0.003"
1/4 0.002-0.006"
1/2 0.004-0.010"
Looks like you a great machinest by the way sir.
Good morning!
If you want to figure out the speed for any metal or cutter.
Look up the SFM of the material for your cutter type. Forklift forks are generally 4140 or 4150 so 70 SFM for a HSS drill bit.
So we get this formula.
(70 X 3.82) / .5 (cutter dia) = 534 RPM and then you want to run a drill at 2/3rds of your calculated RPM so
534 x .66 = 352.968 RPM for a half inch drill in 4140
Lol Good morning, Scott!
"When you're going through hell..... you keep going!" 😁
I don't know anything about machining, LOL, but you got it done!
You should put a spherical washer set on the underside to take up the angle
Yep a mag drill and an annular cutter and you wouldn’t even have had to remove the forks from the skid steer. Truly amazing tool.
Just a suggestion that I just for a buddies forklift, weld a rod to that nut. It gives a handle to get some purchase on to tighten it up, because if not, it will eventually destroy the thread on that ball from rattling inside that bore.
I've built many shops.
I love IT.
We all need shops.
80 x 4 ÷ drill diameter is what I use for a starting RPM calculation on manual machines. I adjust rpm or feed until it sounds right and i get a good chip
Cobalt or carbide that's all I will buy for drill bits. They are brittle but very hard and cut anything.
"Keep up what passes for good work." :D
Also slow and steady always wins the race. Lower rpms for bigger drills and cutters, depending on many things in your setup such as Ridgidy and quality of cutting tools you could get away with alot more.
You did pretty good. At a certain point I would have been using the coolant that looks like the blue Star Wars milk instead of oil, but you did not screw up. Nice press.
Everyone in the comments giving tips on drilling, but for a hole in a work piece like this that doesn't need sub millimeter precision I would cut the hole with a gas cutting torch, you can ream out the hole after with grinding/reamer bit in a handheld drill to clean up the rough edges. Faster and less hassle, no need to move the work to the drill press or get out the heavy and cumbersome mag drill, no wearing out drill bits on hard steel or risk of breaking one.
And if I did need high precision I would cut a even bigger hole with the gas torch and then weld in a bushing.
This is the method I use when working on large machinery or equipment, where often the drill press is simply not an option because the work is either to big and awkward or a mag drill has no place to attach. And for doing one off holes it's arguably better, I would only setup the drill if doing lots of holes.
Annular cutter and mag drill is close second for this particular job as there is nice flat surface to clamp the drill on, and it can be neater and quicker as these is no need to clean up the cut and less skill required, but that's only if you have a good one handy (ours is not good or handy) and can find the right size cutter and it's not blunt, etc.
Mag drill, a Haugen bit and some dawn dish soap is all you need.
Good thing this is just for personal use as this is yet another OSHA violation. I did work at a site that was a OSHA VPP and the machine shop kept a fork with a ball mounted hidden except when they were using it to keep it from getting scraped.
I used a mag drill 1-1/14”
High carbon drill
Non-machinist, non-blacksmith and non-carpenter here. This is my favorite RUclips channel.
it has probably been mentioned by now, but if you take the listed surface feet per minute for a listed alloy , multiply by 4 and then divide the drill diameter into that, you will get your rpm.....Mild steel is 80 for sfm x 4 equals 320 divided by .5 would give a speed of 640 for a half inch bit.....ect.....stainless has a sfm of of about 40 depending on alloy.300 series.....not hardenable.....aluminum is 300 or so......these sfm or cutting speeds are readily available for all material....hope this helps....I make it easy by just taking the number 300 and dividing bit size into that for steel....cut that number in half for stainless and triple for aluminum.....so I only need one number to remember......if you get into exotics using a reference is the way to go......cheers, Paul down in Florida
Came over from Buckin Billy Rays channel to give a follow.
dmag + annular cutter would be the best way to go about this, just gotta make sure you have cutting oil!
When you chips are blue you are drilling too fast slow down. But remember your chips will turn blue when you are breaking through that last bit of steel because that last little piece of metal before you break through turns hot quickly. Also I agree angular cutters are great for what your doing ,and you can keep the plug the angular cutter leaves and put it on your shelf incase you ever need it(which u never will!!!). Thanks for the video EC