7 Ratchet Strap Pro Tips
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2023
- Secure your load! Here's the first Ratchet Strap video: • How To Use A Ratchet S...
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Thanks internet dad
For real though 😂
If it was dad telling us it would be after everything already flew out on the freeway 😂
I have three internet dads. Wranglerstar, Buckin' Billy Ray and The Essential Craftsman..... No, seriously! I love these guys. 😁👍
Honestly
I prefer putting the ratchet strap on the passenger side of the load. If you need to tighten the strap, your out of traffic. What do you think ?
Please dont forget you are legally obligated to do the very important step of wrenching on the thing you are tying down and stating proudly "that's not going anywhere".
Took too many responses to get this ever important tip. 😂
😂💯🏆
Slapping it twice highly recommended.
The people who say "that ain't going no where" never lose their load
yeah maybe if this was reddit
As a platform/heavy haul driver of 3 decades, with recurrent certification to teach securement per DOT specs, I’ll share some tips-
1). Always use edge protection anywhere there’s a sharp edge, even if it doesn’t look very sharp. You can buy plastic edge protectors, but you can also use cardboard if it’s not a material that would cut through the cardboard.
2). Another way to store the excess, is to fold it over numerous times, then zip tie it to the main line. Just make sure to leave about a foot between your bundle and the ratchet, so you have room to tighten the strap as the load settles.
3). Though you can get away with attaching the hook to a stake pocket in non-commercial applications, there is a reason it used to be illegal on commercial applications. The rule has changed back and forth over the years, but in general it’s still frowned up, even though it’s no longer illegal (as of the current rules). Remember, first make sure that stake pocket/rub rail is certified by the trailer manufacturer to have a tie down attached, and that they have a WLL posted for it. Also, NEVER go outside the rub rail. Though no longer illegal, if you were to get side swiped, it could cut the straps and you could lose your load.
4). Inspect your straps for nicks and frays. If you find any, toss the straps. In commercial applications, it’s a violation (possibly more than one. If that strap is no good, and then the remaining straps do not meet the minimum requirements for the length and weight of the load, you could receive 2 violations. One for a bad strap, and another for insufficient tie downs). Straps are pretty cheap, so replace them when they get a nick. It’s cheap insurance.
5). Though this is only a requirement in commercial applications, I still suggest these rules. 2 straps for the first 10’ of material, plus another strap for each additional 10’. Also, the working load limit of all straps should equal AT LEAST half the weight of the material you’re hauling. So if you’re hauling 6,000 pounds of material, you should have AT LEAST 3,000 pounds of WLL. So if you had 2” straps rated at say 2,250# WWL, you’d need at least 2 straps.
Hope this helps
Great addition, Thank you!
listen, professional truck driver none of us common folk care about all the stuff that the DOT makes you do that they do not make the average person do I mean come on old guys like this one can still drive a huge diesel pusher down the road without a CDL...........
Great tips - thumbs up. Thanks for sharing.
As one who teaches this at a heavy truck school, I say this is probably the best advice.
I would add that the small spike at the side of his trailor is to tie down a net or a canvas. Not intended to hold any force/weight.
@@sledninja I know that you are kidding but yeah, who cares about safety and not killing people or destroying property? People have the right to be idiots. Without them, RUclips would have no content. Remember... Having the right to do something doesn't mean that it is the right thing to do. Always do the right thing, even if you do not have the right to do it.
Something you didn't mentioned, but mentioned years ago... Put the rachet part on the passenger side of your cargo, in case you need to stop on the road to tighten it down or if thats how you're unloading.
I’ve always put it on the driver side so it is easy to see in the mirrors if something starts to go awry
@@agm65ccip You only have mirrors on one side of your truck?
Sometimes it’s good to tighten from both sides. In the trucking industry we like to alternate so the load stays balanced.
Great tip. Thanks.
idk. something about this. if your too lazy to walk around a vehicle after stopping on the side of the road because your strap is loose. you should not be hauling in the first place.
you have to be the most OCD person on the planet to think this is a time saving tip as well. this tip is the perfect definition of OVERKILL.
Like you, I wrap my smaller rachet straps like you did, but then I tuck them into a can koozie. It is a snug fit that keeps them from becoming undone. Great advice again from you. Thanks.
Ohhh I like that idea.
I use ratchet straps every day. A few additions for you.
#1 For storage. When warping the strap around the windless open the leaver to its full open (like the big yellow one you did) two reasons (a) Bigger base less winding.(b) If they're frozen or muddy they're easier to clean out when open. (c) They're ready to use.
#2 Before winding, slide the windlass to the middle of the strap (a) your winding both sides at the same time, half the winding. (b) You don't have to pull the hook all the way through. I leave the hook end a little shorter so the other end surpasses it when wound and secures the hook. At this point I have a rubber band on my wrist, slip it off my wrist onto the strap so it won't unwind.
#3 You didn't mention the strap should enter the windless on the load side. (you had them right) but newbees might not know.
#4 I usually feed the strap through the windlass and Tie a slip knot at the end of the strap to keep it from sliding out. Slip knot so it's easy to untie.
#5 With regards to the twist, only half a twist per span (a full twist will chatter too). Eg For a lift of lumber 1/2 a twist up one side, 1/2 a twist across the top and 1/2 twist on the other side You might have to adjust how the strap goes through the windless.( Fold the strap into a wide V and slide it through the windless.)
#6 My tiding up the loose end is similar. Start the same as you. (a)Lift the strap towards you. (b) With the left hand, strap to the back of left hand reach under tight strap grab a bite of the tale and pull it through. (c) Keep pulling till the loop till it is the same length as the tale. (d) Cinch it down and do it again. Each cinch secures three times as much as your way.
#7 Windlasses (Say that three times) rust and bind. I used to use candle wax as lube in the ratchet. Recently I discovered the lube they use for mounting tires. Works great.
#8 If the hook won't go through the stake pocket.(a) Fold the strap back on it's self ( about 12 ") pass the bite through the stake pocket or slit or what ever then pass the hook through the bite and pull up the slack. (b) remove the strap from the windless, pass the end of the strap through the stake pocket, hole or small opening, throw the strap over the load and secure with windless.
I hop this all makes seance to you.
1 no. keep strap and ratchet separate. Use fork spinner to roll the straps. If you Roll the strap on the ratchet then you can't toss the strap over.
2 no. See #1.
3 no. What needs be said is that you ratchet, till the windlass slot is perpendicular to the ratchet closed. Feed strap from the base side to the handle side. So when you start to ratchet the strap is already correct.
4 no. Even if it is easy it is easier to not do it and just be mindful. I very very rarely have one pull out that didn't need to be. Plus See #1.
5 no. Again See #1 Always keep the separate so you are not trying to "V" anything. When you are "V" means you are already wasting time and effort.
6 no. "7:00 No better way you say. Well you need to watch this tutorial. Ever since I saw this I have done it and it has saved so much time, effort and stress.
I hope the video link below doesn't get deleted. If it does search "How to use ratchet Straps" from a channel called "Safe Driver Training""
7 lithium grease no drip works best. Tho cndle wax seems like good idea. Might have to try that. Have paraffin wax in a tube that I use for drilling holes in metal. Will try that.
8 no. Again See #1. just hook to stake pocket from outside and run the strap from under and through stake pocket.
Notice Most of those thing you mentioned can be done with much more ease by just keeping the strap and ratchet separate. Everything from deploying, setting up/hooking up, rolling up and storing. Just uploaded a short vid on a strap Winder/Roller/Spinner I made but they can be purchased for only $20. Link in the next comment.
ruclips.net/video/5CJwj-O3oBk/видео.html
@@AztecWarrior69Correct. By rolling the strap separate from the ratchet, it also fights the gravity problem mentioned in this video. You can toss the strap over the load, then pull the hook back down. The excess strap on the other side will keep the hook from just dropping down (unless it’s a very small load). Over 3 decades of heavy haul trucking, plus teaching DOT securement classes, and you pick up a lot of tricks….
Some good tips! My overall favorite method for dealing with excess strap on the big straps is to simply roll it up, hand over hand you can roll 20 feet of strap in a matter of seconds, and then slip it through the loop in the strap, right above the hook. When you tighten it down, it grips tight and won’t let go. Fast, easy, and doesn’t look like a jumbled mess going down the freeway
That's how truckers do it.
This is how I always tie off my excess strapping too.
I also will only use ratchet straps on steel trailers and truck beds. If they're aluminium, I much prefer rope with a trucker hitch (double hitched if the load calls for it) and chokeing the load of it's possible/practical. This stops over tensioning the ratchet and bending the aluminium bars/fix points.
Yep this is how I have seen it done and how I now do it. Works for all types of straps. It never tangles or comes loose, but is always easy to untie and unroll the strap. Really secure and no mess.
@@jeremyzentveld5672 ive only worked with the same steel trailer but that is a good heads up, thank you.
I think that is what he was talking about when he didn't understand how people were trapping the coiled strap under the tightened strap. They were using this method and it might look a little sketchy if you didn't know they were going through that loop?
I love ball bungees for organizing ratchet straps! Wind them up like you do and put a ball bungee around to keep them from unraveling between uses. I also wind up the loose end of the strap, flatten it out and affix it to the ratchet strap with the same ball bungee.
I was hoping someone else would mention this. So much faster than other methods. I do the same thing you do.
Me too
I do the exact same when I used to drive flatbed.
is that safe enough though? Could the bungee break (due to vibrations or something) and release the loose end?
@flavius29663 It's safe enough for me. I check my load securement frequently while in transit.
On using the stake pocket: Now your strap is bearing on the steel edge of the underside of the stake pocket, with it's sharp edges and grinding burrs, and as you're driving down the road the strap is vibrating in the slipstream and slowly sawing itself in two.
I thought the same at first. If you look closer, the hook is longer than the pocket so that the strap is pulling on the ring of the hook. Unless I need a new prescription from the optometrist.
@nevgeth40 we broke about 10 straps last month hauling wings back from Phoenix to Illinois because the guy strapping everything down used this technique and each strap cut at the bottom of the stake pocket. He would just put another one in its place and use the same technique. I could not persuade him otherwise.
@@nevgeth40 In this one example it seems to be okay, but it is certainly worth mentioning don't you think?
Two additional tips. 1. A wrap of electrical tape around that rolled up strap will keep it neat and tidy until you need it again, (Learned that from my buddy Jim. I keep a roll of tape in my strap box for just that purpose.) 2. Periodically lube the ratchet mechanism. There's nothing more frustating that a mechanism that won't easily release.
I was going to mention these two items as well and then I saw the comment. I have tried different methods to keep the rolled up strap together when not in use and electrical tape seems to be the best. Before breaking the tape off, I twist the roll a couple times. This leaves a nice tail to grab to remove the tape.
Also I have seen many ratchet straps that will hardly work. A little bit of oil on all the moving parts of the ratchet makes them work like new again.
Just buy hairties at a folalr store. No sticky shit, and you don't have to cut it off and keep it from flying away.
I used broccoli or lobster claw rubber bands, then found 2” (and other size) multi-color silicone bands on Amazon (a bit more expensive at 30 for $11) but dang, I use them for a million things, and grew to enjoy the silly colors. Electrical tape residue goo is a pain to remove, and hair ties are fine for light duty but don’t last long.
Sorry but I hate electrical tape for anything, even electrical applications. Heat turns it into a gooey, sticky mess with residue that remains when you remove it and time can dry it out to the point where it fails. I much prefer a reusable solution. Hair bands are too flimsy, even produce rubber bands don't last all that long. "Ranger" bands or, better yet, sections of old inner tube are my choices.
I find that electrical tape leaves a sticky residue that is not removable by other than chemical means. Velcro straps would be better.
One thing I was taught for the small ratchet straps is to coil them up like you did but to store them you can buy a pack of cheap cotton socks and store each one in a sock. They can then roll around wherever they are stored at but will not get tangled up between each other or unwind.
Actually works really well.
The big ratchet straps I recently started using the truck driver standard securing way. It's a little harder to remember the first few times you do it but once you get the hang of it there's no going back. Simple, secure and just easy to take apart. Just roll the excess up loosely in a 1-2foot coil, go under leaving a loop that you insert half the coil through and then twist on itself until it's tight there are a few good videos on it here on RUclips.
I always did similar, though instead of the sock I just used a ziplock freezer bag (or a quart size for the smaller ones). Same concept, keeps them separate and clean. Only advantage of the clear bag is if you have a bunch, you can see which is in each bag.
And here I thought that I invented the sock trick :) . A side benefit of the sock stuff sack is they can double as rags and padding.
@@jeffeverde1 who knows maybe you did!
Thanks for the great video. One small critisism however. I was always taught to roll the straps up seperatley from the ratchet, with the hook on the outside. When you throw it over the load, hold the hook and throw the roll over. If you throw the hook end first, you never know when some kid might be walking past your truck and catch a face full hook. Keep up the good work!
From Darwin Australia, that my friend, is definitely the correct way to do it!!!!Well said.....
Being an electrical contractor I use to use cable ties to secure excess strap as a lashed bundle next to the windless. A few years ago cloth double sided velco cable dressing tape came out and it works better, faster and is reuseable compaired to the cable ties. Your wrapping the strap around the windless has served me well for years as I store my straps in a clean, five gallon mud bucket. They stay wrapped waiting for the net time without getting loose and tangled in the shop.
1. Magnet on the hook tip. Keeps it sticking where you let it.
2:53 sow leather patches on the strap. Those are "rope savers" you put in position over sharp edges. Can be fake leather, canvas, anything that's wear resistant. They can also be affixed to the strap with snaps, which makes them universal to any strap you have, just keep a bunch in one place. The snap variant can be bought in bulk as the shoulder protection that's used for carry-on bags, laptop bags, work duffel bags. In the same place, one can buy the rubber shoulder savers, they can also be used for this, they last even longer.
5:44 for those that might find that a bit of a chore, there's a cheat method. On the end of the strap, have a piece of wire that goes through the strap. Pack the strap and use the wire to loop around the tight portion, neat and quick. The coated wire used for privacy fences is the best for this. Doesn't rust, and it's cheap as heck in a roll. The little hole it goes through in the end of the strap should be burned in with a hot nail, to keep it from fraying. No twists are required to hold the thing down, just looped around 3 times and it's enough.
8:37 the piece of wire will also help when you're packing them like that, because otherwise, there's no stopping them from unwrapping.
I use an old piece of 2" fire hose or water pump discharge hose. Just cut to length and slide over the strap, easy peasy and works like a champ. I once found a 15" long piece of 4" strap on the road side like the truckers use and cut it into 8" pieces, works well too.
All y'all in the comments arguing and writing 15 paragraph explanations about what's wrong with the video.
Make your own dang video.....
@@l.halsey2991 He asked for more tips and pointers in the end........ I really like the wire trick. Quit being so sensitve.
Great tips! Thanks for taking the time to write a paragraph long comment rather than making your own video 😂
This. Magnets are great for tying down stuff solo
As a Scouting climbing instructor I fell into using retired ropes and carabiners for tie downs. It s good knots practice. Im glad you mentioned ropes and rigging at the end :)
1000% this. Just use webbing and tie a knot. They dont slip off, they dont scratch equipment and almost every single knot that you would need to learn would take about 2 minutes. And a heck of alot cheaper.
Another tip - have the ratchet be on the side of the vehicle away from passing traffic if you ever have to pull over to adjust for any reason. Your own safety is important.
You should wrap the windlass 3 times before adding tension otherwise it’s liable to slide loose. Pro tip I learned from a trucker.
Was about to say. Always start with a bit of slack.
Another tip to add, regarding the daisy chain. Leave a foot or so of unchained strap before you start the daisy chain. That way, if someone needs to loosen the strap to get say, part if the load, they don’t need to undo the entire thing.
The level of articulation in the trades of woodworking and carpentry is one of the most gratifying aspects of being a woodworker. Thank you for leading the way!
I use spring clamps to hold tension on the strap while I walk around. And put the ratchets on the curb side, just in case you have to stop to snug them up.
I spent the first 20 years of my adult working life in a shipyard as a rigger. We used chains, steel wire slings, nylon and polypropylene (yellow) rope for our rigging needs. I learned how to tie most rigging knots that you could actually untie after putting a hefty load on the knots. So I like to use good rope now on my tie downs on both trailers. When the ratchet straps first became popular for smaller trailers I resisted because having to figure out having to release the tension on them after a load was too much for my fingers and brain. So I stayed with my road tying. Lol. I still use the smaller ones but still have trouble.
I'm sort of the same way. I prefer a good rope to those ratchet straps but sometimes I don't always have the right type of rope and will use a ratchet strap.
For the bitter end, I find a neater , quicker way is to use one hand over the other wrapping round to quickly make a round coil. then pull a bight through the loop and lock it in like a cow hitch. Quick , easy and not very bulky
That's the best way for me ,and you can also leave them like that for next time once you un strap the load.
That's the only way I'm allowed to wrap straps at work. It's quick and when done right doesn't come undone. Plus when hauling the same load home at the end of the day your strap is already set to length.
I just wanted to throw my name in here for this one. I looked up ways to deal with the excess, and this is my favorite.
Yep, always used that technique when working for a bee-keeper.
That's the way I do it. Confuses my work colleagues but never had a problem with it coming loose and easy to undo to unstrap and pack away
Very useful tips, thankyou! As a female sole parent I've had to figure things out on my own a lot and videos from an expert like you are the best!
As always great information. I use all sections of old fire hose as sleeves on my ratchet traps to prevent chafing.
I use stretchable packing plastic (cling wrap)around mine straps after putting them away. Keeps them together and you can use it over and over. Just my 2cents. Great video. Keep ‘em coming.
A.B.C
Acceleration.
Braking.
Cornering.
Best way I was taught to think about any load I'm lashing down. Great video as always. 👍
I just have a ratchet strap demo to elementary school students on a canoe trip. Love the tips
Glad to see I wrap up my straps the right way already! One extra tip, I keep mine in a screw pouch, it’s a small canvas bag with a cinch rope to tighten the opening and the bag has a bunch of dividers inside. Each strap gets its own spot and keeps them from getting all tangled together. And when I need to secure a load I just grab the bag and I know I’ve got at least half a dozen good straps in there.
Great idea
Old socks work good for storage too. Just wash em first.
@@williamedmonds186 OK, came in here to say thanks MikeJones for the screw bag idea, those things are certainly handy, BUT the sock idea appeals to my selective frugality so thanks William and also thanks Mike cuz maybe I'll reach that level eventually!
I use left over sandwich bags. They last a few times only but I always have more. The zip lock ones are the best.
I use the thick rubber bands you'll get from produce at the grocery store.
Excellent tips. My contribution: Cut old bicycle inner tubes crosswise to make 'ranger bands' that you can slide over the hook end. I keep 4 bands per strap. the bands make reasonably soft edge protectors (but beware black smudging if fine furniture). Also, the bands work like large rubber bands and can secure a folded up loose end. The wider the band, the stronger the hold. like all rubber, they age, so replace them after they start to crack.
here in AU a lot of heavier straps come provided with a woven sleeve on the strap, these sleves are available sepasrately
I use elastic hair bands from the dollar store, like 10 for a buck. works great.
The phenomenon that causes that strap resonance in the wind is called "vortex shedding" and for any more of the nerds in the audience, I would recommend going down that rabbit hole, because it's interesting stuff.
People where I live spool the strap and ratchet separately for storage. Specifically so that the hook is on the outside of the spool so when you unspool it by throwing it you don't break your windshield or someone's skull. Slower to use that way though. I carry a self spooling one for when I just need to keep something still for 5 minutes. They are pretty quick.
I always saw truck drivers store their ratchet straps seperatly, never really understood untill i started driving a trailer more often. When securing the load its way faster. Take the hook in your hand, throw the roll over the load. Pull back just enough to hang the hook on the trailer(i hang it on the bottom of a c profile thats around my flatbed trailer) if thrown all straps over, take your ratchets to the other side(passenger side preferred for safety when need to tighten on roadside) and tighten your ratchets. when unloading first pull off all ratchets, then go to other side to pull off all the loose ends. this way they also never get stuck on top of your load.
Still trying to teach my colleagues this. As they always throw the hook over the load saying the hook is the weight to toss the strap. I've never had a problem or injury from throwing the roll over
Good vid Scott. Pro tips: I know my straps are going to be used on my treailer, so i squished the hooks a little bit in the hydraulic press so they would fit the stake pockets. When you get a frayed portion in the strap, cut it and do a "butane backsplice". Dont ever trust a frayed or partialy cut strap . If you can get your hands on some retired fire hose it is really good for going over sharp corners to protect the strap and the load if you are using chains. My $.02.
Cool idea probably. But I would be concerned about the integrity of the hook. Worst case scenario it could break mid trip.
One of my favorite tools for securing particularly sharp loads is a few simple carpet samples from the hardware store. They are usually free and keep both the load and strap safe from each other.
In my country it is saying: It is nice to hear when wise man talks about something.
Great video about simple thing, as many think.
Cheers from Poland.
I have seen the eye of the hook start to open under load especially with the hook right on the bend joint which is usually not welded it's just a bent piece of metal that only needs to flex open 1/4" before disaster
I like to store my ratchet straps rolled up like you showed with one modification. I rotate the hook closest to the windlass out 90 degrees(open end of the hook facing out) while I wrap(as tight as possible) the rest of the strap on top of it and then when I am done I rotate the hook back inline while trying to capture as much of the rolled up strapping as possible. This does two things, the hook acts a cam to further tighten the wrapping and also captures the bitter end so you don't have a bunch of loose strap flopping around that loves to get tangled up into things. I like to wrap the strap as tight as possible because it seems like the friction helps keep it from unraveling by itself.
If I know I will not be using a particular strap for a long while, I will do the above and then also put a Velcro strap around the entire bundle to hold it all together. I don't use rubber bands of any sort as they degrade over time and there is too many chemicals that will turn them into a sticky mess.
Ha! I just read your comment after posting nearly the same thing. I use ranger bands made from motorcycle innertubes though.
I take the end of the strap, roll it up & put a rubber band around it, it’s never failed me.
Yeah I use bungee balls because they won't break plus they're nice to have on hand too
Rubber bands aren't very reliable unless they're like made of like vulcanised or EPDM rubber. Something like a hair tie (elastic with fabric support) works well in my experience as when the elastic stretches or wears out it doesn't break or become sticky and you can just replace it when it gets too loose
As a person who has worked with CGU-1B cargo straps for the better part of a decade in the Navy, I thought all of this was common knowledge. Then I remembered I am but a man, and you could probably tell me the most mundane fact about concrete work that I would marvel at for having never guessed it. Great video as always. Our straps have a length of about 21ft, so we often have to find inventive ways to maintain the excess on smaller cargo, but what I have always found to work the best is to take the excess and fold into 1ft-2ft bights, folding it over on itself flat so that it is all one nice bundle, then tucking it under a looser stretch of strap, and then pulling it to a tighter part so it stays in place. We mainly work with cargo going on planes, so we only worry about wind taking it while on the flightline, not on the road. The bitter end being should always be on top of the bundle so it can be pulled out easily by a single tug, which is very important for air freight; if a load shifts while in flight, the aircrew has to be able to reconfigure quickly and easily. Hasn't failed me yet, and I have yet to hear a complaint from any aircrew or airfield. It makes the cargo look like a present wrapped up in bows as well, so that's a plus.
I roll my straps the same way. Pro tip to keep it manageable: simply slide the bundle into a plastic sandwich bag. With the right size for the strap it'll slide in easily but not have enough room to unwind.
The biggest mistake I made starting out was not understanding that the straps are a friction hold against themselves. You really need a good 2-3 full turns of the ratchet before you can rely on the friction hold.
One and a half turns will suffice. As a C-141 loadmaster, I've used alot of chains and straps for tie-down over more than 12 years of flying cargo. All that was required was 1 1/2 turns according to our loading manual.
The best way I've ever seen to store a strap is to roll the tail up with its hook on the inside, and leave enough to go through the windlass once, around the entire roll, and through the windlass again, then just give the windlass a crank or two until the roll is captured. Now it's self-contained in one unit and can't unroll until you free the windlass, so you can bang them around in the truck bed and they'll always be ready to go.
And unroll it by tossing it over the load.
Is that like Swedish Homestead ratchet vid that went viral with 2.3 million views? -- Very Helpful Ratchet Strap Trick
He must have learned it from you.
Another great video. I'm 100% with you on putting your gear away correctly. You are saving your future self, loved one, or friend the hassle of the tangled mess. I use ranger bands (cut up old bicycle inner tube) to secure the wrapped up strap. One old tube can yield 30 to 40 3/4 to 1 inch rubber bands. An extra handful in a baggy thrown into whatever you carry your straps in comes in handy when Murphy hides the one you just took off. Fair winds and following seas.
When we lived down in north Florida I always used come alongs. But since living in North Dakota I've been inundated with folks having nothing but ratchet straps to tie down loads I've helped them with. I'll be honest... I couldn't stand the bloody things! But somehow I always managed to get them untangled as they'd been left by their owners and make them work. But after this video, I'm now looking at them in a new light. I just about can't wait to try all this out the next time I have to help them with a load. Again Cy, my deepest thanks to you for making/posting this video! Keep up the great work!
Bitter end trick I learned instead of the 6:35 effort... There are usually 2 layers of webbing between the ratchet and its hook, and these are usually sewn with a gap longer than the width of the strap. So before it gets tightened very much, fold the bitter end back and forth into a tidy stack and slide that perpendicularly through those 2 layers until it sits nicely in the middle. When you tighten the strap it will squeeze the folded leftovers and hold it securely.
This is a nice clear explanation of what was being discussed in the chat above this comment.
Nice idea!
That’s the best way and if the ratchet doesn’t have a big enough gap 95% of the time there is a way to fold it up and smash it against the trailer to hold it tight instead of the chain link deal
With the big straps I store the strap and windlass separately. Roll the strap up hook first and wrap the finished roll with a ranger band. For deployment hold the tail of the strap tightly and whip the roll away from yourself. When the roll is almost to the end yank on the tail and the hook comes right back to you. Unrolls straight and you've got both important ends in your hands in seconds! Also storing the strap separate forces me to slide the windlass back on the strap and assess the strap for damage as it gets slid on (stores neater as a bonus).
Most people do roll them with the hook on the inside of the roll, but if you pull large loads on long trailers, I've found it easier to always roll them with the hook on the outside. This allows me to walk down the driver's side of the trailer and place the hook and then throw the roll over the load to the other side repeating the same process at regular intervals as I go down that side. Then, walk around to the passenger side and place my ratchets.
@@thehogdoctoralso rolls up neater with the hook on the outside
This man is just a never ending fountain of knowledge.
He also looks fantastic for someone that I would assume has worked construction for 50+ years...
Incredible.
Great tips! Thank you!
Pro tip: always borrow a friend's ratchet strap and simply cut the unused excess off.
Many years ago I was taught how to tie a 'trucker's dolly' and it's still one of my favourite ways of tying down a bulky load.
I carry ratchet straps with my roof bars for the car and always coil them up neatly when I'm done. It doesn't take long and it lets you centre your thoughts before moving on to the next task.
As always appreciate your knowledge!
Always up for learning something new.
Thanks for reminder video! As your channel's one of the best (and bigger), it should remind a lot of us younger folk to be aware of this sort of thing. Hopefully they do some more RUclips research to find others who have created some great ratchet strap videos too!
The kid on the Safe Driver Trainer channel has a good one. Please keep making this content so that the RUclips algorithm keeps suggesting your content. Hopefully the people reading comments will pick up a few more things along the way. Bensbackwoods also has some good suggestions. =) Fireball Tool does a pretty cool video on breaking strength if anyone's curious.
And though there are many ways to secure the loose bit, I love the practicality of the chain stitch method you promote cause vibration and rattle may make some other approaches come loose, but it'll take a lot of coincidences to have each loop be pulled out, especially when you use gravity as your friend. Common sense and safety for the win!
Great tips. I use ziplok bags to put each of my smaller straps in (without having to roll them up). It keeps the straps from getting all tangled with each other. I keep all my tie downs in a tote, so after I use a few, I just put the ziploks back in there so they don't get lost.
That's a fine idea. Might keep the sawdust and dirt off them as well. Thanks!
Great vid as always! When wrapping them up for storage I open the ratchet mechanism out flat as if releasing it and pull the strap half way through. That minimises the number of wraps needed so saves time. Being longer and thinner also means you can tie the end in a simple loose knot around the whole thing so it doesn't unravel, and they also just happen lie together better like that in my van racking.
I have learned soooo much from you its unreal, from tape measures to ratchet straps thank you for your lessons!
Okay, here goes. I’ve become a huge fan of elastic hair ties. Black ones, about 2” diameter. Bought 200 on amazon, the slightly more expensive ones. Stronger and don’t dry rot like rubber bands. They became so useful I bought a bunch more and stashed them everywhere. Also for bigger needs, the ball-bungee loops for tarp borders. Bout due to buy another hunnert. They tend to escape from my garage and truck.
If you can toe a diomond knot you can make ball bungees in any size from a roll of elastic. They are called soft shackles in the knotting/rope world.
Awesome. Every video is jam packed with concise well thought out tips! TY
The Kudu trophy on your wall is nice. As a South African I like it very much. Thanks for the nice videos.
Hi, I've been watching your videos for years and let me say it is a pleasure to watch someone with so much knowledge and experience share it with others in a great way.
I wanted to also say what works best for me as for as storing my many straps and being able to keep them nice and untangled. Is rolling them up as you did and just using a old milk crate and if you dont have one lying around there cheap to buy, and bonus you can also put your trailer hitch and different size balls for the hitch in it too. For me towing two different size trailers I use a 1 1/4 and a 2 inch also good for storing chains and it fits nicely in the back corner of the truck bed, also if you have a bed liner it wont slide all over (depending on how you drive, for me I sometimes have to move it back to were it was)😂. Anyway thought i would throw that out there, it works good for me hope it does the same for you. Love the channel guys!
Hi Scott, I've been rolling up straps like you for 20yrs. I put them in quart freezer bags so they don't unroll. Store them in a yellow tie bag so they are easy to find. Great tips from you! God bless and take care from your long-time California subscriber.
Great video.
It’s satisfying to see that I do ALL of these things already.
Im doing it all right!
Good tips. I've been rolling up my ratchet straps like that for a long time now. Keep them in a container under the seat and never have a problem with tangling. One thing I have discovered, is that if you swing the first hook out to the side then wrap up the strap, you can swing the hook back over the coil and it helps keep everything together.
Can always learn something, even at 81! Twist and crochet (use crochet for extension cords already). Also store my straps the same way, then secure with a piece of double sided Velcro (Harbor Freight). Thanks for all your great advice.
Thanks for the valuable information.
Great info!
GREAT ADVICE
Very good. Thank you for the video/info
There are much better options out there for just about every one of these tricks. Definitely worth seeking them out as well.
Thanks good still learning the rachet strap
Thank you for the master class sir. As I was watching the video, in the very last moments, when you tie your ratchet around itself, it came to me the idea of glueing/stitching some Velcro tape near the hook, so when you wind it, it sticks to itself rather than start loosening out. Who knows, maybe it works.
Keep up the good job!
Nice learning about the twist in the strap trick.
Good information, thank you for sharing.
Scott, I take a piece of tie wire and wrap around the ratchet strap roll I've made and throw it into the tool box. Easy and reusable. Saves the mess. Works good on the bitter end also by rolling and binding the roll to whatever is available (and safe). And if I'm worried about a sharp edge wearing through the strap I cover the edge with cardboard or anything I can find. Lots of good ideas here. Good Job and thank you for sharing.
Oh good, only 231 comments behind. First off thank you for all the wonderful videos. I have learned so much. Some I scold myself and I wrestle with but most of all learned a new way. I would like to throw two cent of an opinion your way.
First off when terminating a end. There is a small pocket of double band between the short side to the ratchet. Fold up the remaining end and place in that pocket BEFORE you ratchet the load. It can't even be pulled out after you ratchet it, until you loosen the ratchet.
Secondly, I like wrapping the unused ratchet up the same way, but pull the load strap to the about middle and it will take half as long and when you ready to use, both ends will be in your hands when you unwind it.
The twist is great advice
Excellent advice and I really appreciated the bonus at the end.
Good advice my friend. Security on a load is priority for sure. 🙏♥️
Storage idea- I use plastic ammo cans to store my straps (wound like you showed) in the truck, at the farm, mounted to the trailer, etc. Keeps them from unwinding, grab/go ready, etc
That's a great idea. I'm going to have to get me a trailer so I can do this.
The Father I always wanted! 💯❤️
Carabiner tip. In some applications, I use carabiners through the loop of the hook to secure it to the tie-down point instead of using the hook. This is especially true if the load has the ability to flex or shift during movement and could allow the hooks to come off the tie-down point, for instance on my off-road motorcycle. Unlike my big cruiser motorcycle, there are few good tie-down points on a dirt bike that takes the shocks out of play during a haul. So the bike will bounce allowing slack in the line and potentially allowing a hook to become disconnected from the tie-down point of the trailer. A carabiner through the loop and the trailer tie-point will prevent this disconnect and as the bike rebounds puts the tension back on the strap holding the bike securely.
That braiding tip for the rest of the strap is genius! I've always used it for power cords but never even dawned on me for the tie downs. Thank!
Thank you very much.
chunks of bicycle innertube make great bands for holding the smaller ratchet straps after you get them all rolled up for storage. Also, corner protectors can be found along the road as orange/red triangles that seem to blow off semi loads all the time or even better is a piece of fire hose.
Thanks your video are very helpful and gave ne a better understanding of ratchet straps
I wait every day for new video,you are the best.!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and keep your videos coming please.
Thanks so much
Brilliant
Glad you have this series. A few years ago I sold some architectural pieces. The guys that bought them had rented a trailer for the first time. After loading they brought out two packages of ratchet straps brand new and asked if I knew how to use them. I took the time to show them and fastened their load. Hope they remembered how to remove them or they would have needed cut them off. Better these kinds of videos to show them how.
I really learned those techniques when I drove a flatbed commercially delivering building materials .
Good episode, always like and learn from you!
Awesome advice just what I needed! I must tell you a story of my recent helpful ratchet encounter. I have a 3 wheel utility scooter. It weight 300 lbs. I went to move it from one storage place to a new one 7 miles away. It contains 2 heavy deep cycle batteries. I had rented a U-Haul open trailer with a ramp. So I turn on the key and the batteries were dead. At this point I should have removed the batteries but I didn’t. They are really heavy. I tried charging the batteries but there was not enough time because I had to get the rental back. So I started the scooter up the ramp by pushing it so the front wheel was barely on the ramp. Now here is where my two amazing ratchets came to rescue me from the situation. I put one on both sides and over the next hour I managed to put that 300lb scooter up a little at a time. I do love my ratchets!
Actually I used 5 ratchets all together.
One application for hooking that is popular and definitely needed at times. You can secure the end by feeding the strap through the eye-lit first before feeding it through the ratchet. This will make it impossible to come unhooked. Only the one end can be done this way, the other has to be hooked in any of the ways you showed. I always just do a serious of half hitch for the end but I’m excited to try your way, as it’s faster to undo afterwards. Any other method I’ve seen people tie has the potential of coming undone. Thanks, love your channel!!
Good advise
Spot on, just a tid bit when putting my straps away after use, I roll them up as you stated but use a single wrap of electrical tape to keep them together. Works perfect thanks again for your work here.
Great video. As someone who uses ratchet straps a lot for the back of the pickup, I love the tip about twisting and not having them flat. Just today I had a strap vibrating in the wind and I bet if I’d twisted it once it would have been fine.
Great info! Safety first for others and self. Nothing gets the blood flowing faster than coming undone at 75mph on the freeway!! Thanks EC
Thanks for the awesome content and great video
Keep up the good work
Nice one, thank you! For storage I always fold the strap in half till it has a decent length. Then i tie a simple knot in it…. That way you can hang them somewhere for example. Very convenient. Greetings from Germany
Good stuff