Concrete Floor Over Tile | EASY Self Leveling Concrete Floor
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2022
- Pouring self leveling concrete over linoleum tile with a DIY concrete dispenser made from a trashcan. In this video I show how to self level a floor using self leveler cement. I resurfaced concrete floors with a skim coat of concrete before but doing it bucket by bucket was difficult and exhausting. The trash can on wheels method was suggested to me by followers on instagram. I used Quikrete Self-Leveling Floor Resurfacer concrete mix and poured a skim coat over the top of the existing linoleum type tiles. I did NOT get this right the first time so I hope you learn from my mistakes but we are very happy with the final concrete floor skim coat.
This video is sponsored by Extra Space Storage. Check them out! extraspace.storage/3DzGYcp
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Link to Quikrete Self-Leveling Floor Resurfacer concrete mix
www.quikrete.com/productlines...
I recommend getting a dedicated Ryobi Paddle mixer for this. you can use a drill but a $50 paddle mixer with proper speeds is worth it!
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www.homemade-modern.com/ 
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As I have done several floor pours myself (with varying degrees of success) I have learned that it greatly helps the self leveling mass to use a spiked roller on a long handle. It releases the air bubbles and helps levels the concrete since contrary to the name it needs help to self level. Maybe having an extra person doing the spike rolling while you are pouring could work but beware that the spike roller flings some concrete so cover everything important up to knee height.
Self levelling means, you level it yourself 😂
Great comment!
What is the difference between simple cement and this self leveling for making a floor??
Could you use cement?
@@georgiosladas3106 I believe the flow/consistency of the two is different and the grit size. So it is easier to get the self leveling mass flat and smooth and it hardens in a few hours, it also doesn't shrink when drying out.
Depending on your needs either could work but I'm no expert. I only used it to level out existing concrete floor (use primer first).
@@krycke
Thanks.
I was thinking they use some kind of glue tile for elasticity.
I will try it first in a small room to see it how it goes. Traditionally ages before old houses in Europe had this technique using only cement with colour on top. In Europe there s difference in price self leveling costs 80 % more between 50 and 80eeuro extra than just cement.
As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement ruclips.net/user/postUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
This made the idea of a pour over floor more palatable and approachable. For even a novice like me. Thank you for sharing. My dad was always creating ingenious contraptions. I feel like I’d be paying homage to him. Whenever it is I attempt this. Thank you!
Great vide and just in time. My brother is building a house out of shipping containers and we are doing everything ourselves. We are now in the process of pouring subfloor. His wife and he don't want the tiles in the house (just in the restrooms) so they decided to go for self leveling floor. Your idea is easy to make, cheap and effective. Big thanks.
How did the floors come out? 4 months later, did they ctack?
Practice makes perfect! I always appreciate your videos - explanation, process, reflection and humility. Thank you!
That stuff is amazing. I poured some about an 1/8-3/16” deep over old linoleum in recessed 3’ x 6’ laundry area about 5 years ago and it’s held up beautifully under the washer & dryer. Not one chip or crack.
Great result, cost effective design, no back pain, easy to use. Awesome! Thanks for the share.
Love the concrete application device! So dang simple an yet super effective! Great job!
I've been thinking about doing my garage and now I'm DEFINITELY going to do it this way. Genius. Well done!!
This won't hold up well. Cars will destroy this in under a year.
It'll be interesting to see how long before the cracking begins, personably I would never pour a hard cement product over softer lino tiles.
But what you have made is a fantastic forward thinking invention, may I suggest a slide gate set up inside the trashcan to control the flow and allow you to control it from the top and make the base so the trashcan and pipework is tilting downwards on a angle so it self drains as much as possible.
Great ideas. Is a slide gate something you could buy ready-made like the valves are?
@@twobluestripes It wouldnt take too much to make one up, like a slide gate on a animal feed bin/grain hopper. Probably could buy one from a woodworking dust extraction system but they wouldnt be simplistic enough to be submerged in a thick liquid so would have to be mounted outside the bin
@@twobluestripes Could put the barrel up a bit higher, and use a flexible tube to distribute it. To turn it off, put the end of the flexible tube into the top of the barrel. (and make sure you have a wide base, because this would be top-heavy). Might want to also add a hook or a weight, to make sure the flexible tube stays in the barrel when you're not holding it.
Expecting that as well. Especially considering it's a pretty thin pour as far as I could see.
I have concrete for my flooring. You know the kind where they can make it look like tile, flagstone etc. It is probably as thin as this one is - and it was pored over the original concrete subfloor - so it's not spongy like those linoleum tiles. Within about 2 years, there were parts where chunks actually chipped off and there were a lot of cracks. Forget ever rolling anything on a floor like that (example an office chair on wheels) and even furniture like dining room chairs eventually lead to chips and damage. Not to mention that it needs to be resealed often. It's very lovely and pretty for a short term solution (flip) not not a viable long term solution for a floor.
Genius. Better results with comfortable application of usually awkward and messy material. Congrats!
Pro tip if you're mixing self level and you use ice water when you mix it flows way better we add like two bags of ice to a fifty gallon drum full of water then we mix in a half drum using the ice cold water
Another option for the spout is a flexible hose that you lift and tie up so that the mouth is above the concrete line in the bucket. You can add a flat clamp on the hose to decrease the size of the nozzle.
great idea on the trash can and cart. In place of a ball valve look for a 1-1/2" PVC gate valve. The type with a sliding gate and will have a handle, probably t-shaped, that you draw the gate in and out with. It looks something like a dust collection blast gate but it's sized for PVC pipe. They cost less than you ball valve and I think (but I have not tried) it will work better for your application.
Here is an example but they are made by many companies.
Look for : *Valterra 6101 PVC Gate Valve, White, 1-1/2" Slip* or something similar.
Your ingenuity is always inspiring.
This is just crazy satisfying to watch. Great problem solving!
He just didn’t give credit to his source. I do decorative concrete for a living and I’ve seen videos of this from years ago.
@@russellchampagne3830 I want to be polite as possible, as the internet is so full of redundant passive aggression and outright insults, so do not take this the wrong way. You may find an original idea if Elon Musk or some other genius type like Mark Rober makes w video, but other than that, please allow yourself the peace of knowing without it being credited, 99.99999% of content is repeated knowledge, skills, and intellectual jabash. Allow the anal retentiveness to relax, and you can go just enjoy RUclips, and all the other content as entertainment
@@brianandlynphilippines you right.
Look into getting a guage rake and a spiked roller. Guage rake will ensure a consistent thickness is spread over your substrate and the roller will eliminate the overlaps from each pour and blend the whole self level together
This is Brilliant! It would be fun to see it with different colors of concrete
just add cement color
ruclips.net/video/pCUUCgNjioM/видео.html
So creative and the result looks great.
knew you were a smart guy right from the begining. as soon as i heard self leveling concrete. watch ur entire video. and turns out to be correct. ur really smart
Great work Ben and Crew. Saving your back is a -big deal-, your future self will thank you for it.
thank you! this was so much easier!
This is epic!!!! For sure going to do this if I ever do a big space
Nice!
Mods I’d try:
1)gate valve instead of ball
2)Hole in the bottom of the can instead of side with a bulkhead. This way it can all drain out
3) try mixing all the concrete in the bucket? May be too hard for drill… but would save you some buckets and trips.
How could you do number 3 if you implement number 2?
@@brandonmcdole7886 ...by shutting the hole before adding and mixing???
#3 would be too hard to mix. It would be overmixed to ensure consistency. The whole point of the 5-gallon bucket is to keep it simple for casuals.
Your project are always amazing 💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
Great learning video. Nice information and good hands on training.
Damn man that is pretty freaking clever!
The concrete doesn't crack over time? I tried something similar and found the concrete has expansion/contraction problems with the thin aggregate.
This is freaking GENIUS!!
Hi there. Great idea. Would it be possible to mark the trash can with appropriate water measurements to mix the cement directly into it?
This is pretty frikin badass man! Kick ass idea. WILL be doing this :D
Love videos like this. If I could do things like this, that could be a good thing.
One way to get the compound to self level is with a spiked roller, if you are after the wave effect put about 20% more water in the mix to thin it and just throw the buckets in. Self-levelling has an open time of 20 minutes on average so needing 40 minutes to pour means the actual sand and concrete were settling on the bottom of your tank, hence your floor seems to have a lot of waves and is not perfectly flat. You are doing 90% of the same amount of hauling, get a 100l mixing tub for a project this size one person stays on the mixer constantly and everybody else dumps the bags in. Afterwards you can use a small 12l bucket to scoop up material while somebody else keeps mixing to prevent it from settling and setting.
Hi Ben, great video, I used to work in the process eng industry and we would use a knife gate valve to cut through slurry instead of ball valves. Hope it’s a good suggestion, would save you getting in a mess with the cap
Yeah, that cap idea definitely won't work.
Or a rubber insert butterfly valve would also be good.
ruclips.net/video/pCUUCgNjioM/видео.html
A wonderful idea 🤗. I noticed you were refilling the drum as you went. Did the leveler from the first mix start to set inside the drum by the time you had finished the last mix? Thanks for your videos.
it's a nice idea...would love to see how it holds up over time, I feel like you can see where it's already cracked and been filled in the final shots.
I think you're just seeing where each batch of mixed self leveler meets up with the previous batch. I don't think those are filled cracks.
There is this sort of rake I've seen others use on this self leveling stuff that really mixes it better I think. Ideally it would be a uniform finish in the end .
Definately could have used a light set in the base as a funnel for drain. Put enough of a light setting mix at the base of trashcan. Tilt is away from nozzle so it sets up at an angle. Then when it dries it will form an angled bottom towards the nozzle.
What a awesone video. I'm saving this!!!
So even after drying the scallop/wavy effect is still there in the concrete?
Whaaaat? Oustanding project and well executed!
thank you!
Could this type of concrete be done over a garage floor or should some other type be used that can support the pounds per square inch that 2 cars would exert on it?
Man that’s GENIUS!
Brilliant . Well done !
You are the man! Good idea brother!!
Keeping the can elevated outside and running a clear 1 inch vinyl hose inside would lower the risk of spilling a bucket of cement. (1 Inch hose is about $1.50 - $2.50 a foot) Can would work better being short with a bigger diameter to make pouring easier since it only needs to hold a little over 5 gallons. They make carts with hydraulics you could use to lift the can to increase pressure, with almost 2 feet of travel. (They cost $250 for a 500 lb. one though.) You could use a hose plug and kink when not in use. Lift up to turn off. Since it is clear you can tell when it is clean and squeeze trouble spots to focus water. You could also hook a hose with a back-flow valve to the end of the hose, while flipping the can over a drain for cleaning. If something gets clogged you can see where and can cut it out and rejoin the hose if it is long enough to make it worth it. (Doing it elevated to keep from making a mess.) A little expensive for a single pour but okay for repeat use.
Got my tattoo from your competition from a random google search 3 years ago. Saw the thumbnail and I was like wait. Why does he have my tat.
Haha awesome. We’re bros!
Will you be able to get that cap in place against the hydrostatic pressure of the concrete?
What about nylon fire hose that could be pinched off with a heavy weight?
Great system. Thanks for sharing! Be very handy if could time pouring a floor just before a soap box derby...
Me salvaste la vida con esta idea! 😍💪🏻🙏🏻👋🏻🙌🏻💡podrías dejar la lista de artículos que utilizaste para hacer este proyecto
dude this is brilliant
thank you!!!
Im curios how concrete should stick to linoleum/pvc tiles or similar. Even the thin layer doesn't look like it will last long.. did you treat the linoleum before putting the concrete on it?
Instead of the valve or the cap, just use a flexible hose where the end can be lifted above the height of the trash can to stop the flow. Great video, thanks.
Wouldn’t the length of the hose then be a hindrance in the down position? It would surely need to be 3-4 feet long to raise the end above the height of the can?
A flexible, thin, removable hose 20-30” long would be plenty and easy to clean. Only start with around 10-15 gallons in a smaller main bucket, then continue adding as you go. It isn’t necessary to have 30-40 gallons already mixed to get started.
@@twobluestripes The hose can partially wrap around the can, leaving only enough sticking out to get into corners. The hose can then be unwrapped to get into really tight places, such as under a staircase.
I also thought about a flexible host. but in stead of lifting it, I would pinch it off. This way you can adjust the flow also.
I like the hose idea much better than a cap, the cap will get to be a mess after your first closing. And overtime the concrete will harden and make it harder and harder to remove and put the cap back on. The kiss rule keep it simple stupid! Although we just do two buckets at a time pour it all out and squeegee it to where we want it. Might try this idea but I think it’s going to be slower than what we’re doing now just pouring it out because it takes me about five seconds to pour out 10 gallons and I don’t know how long it takes to empty that through a 2 inch pipe but it ain’t as fast as pouring it out the top. I understand you are just a consumer, and an actual contractor is looking for production and so the loss of time is not worth the savings, which I don’t know what they are aside from a little cleaner, also we can walk on ours within four hours. Another thing I’m thinking of is a lot of our floors are so effed up that you really couldn’t even roll that cart over them very well, that’s why were using a leveler, that Leno or tile was about as smooth as possible and 35 gallons of material would be easy to roll over something flat but like I say if they were holes and levels to roll up it would be a lot harder with that much material.
How clean does the floor need to be prior??
I am planning to do this on top of a floor that has carpet glue stuck to it. Can only do so much to remove it.
This is genius!
Smart idea and design dude.
Smart idea!!
Yep. That was awesome. 👏🏽
Awesome Work!!!!
Brilliant!
You’re a freakin g Ben!! So cool!!
Will it just crack easily like thin crust when we step on it hardly
If this were a professional gig you might want to consider getting a concrete float to even out the very top surface after it begins to set.
As it is you end up with that interesting wave pattern, but most people would likely prefer a homogenous and uniform color and texture surface.
I love the device you've made, as it is always releasing the denser, more grain rich self leveler where the bucket dump would always pour the more watery content first followed by the heavier aggregate rich material in uneven patches
I say well done!
The best tool for this is a spike roller actually. You don't need to float this kind of cement, but a spike roller breaks the surface tension and helps it even out. It also mixes across the pour lines for even coloring.
Anything is an improvement over that linoleum tile, and I think the end result looks great.
100%
Gate valve would be the best/easiest way to control flow. Also a gauge rake is a must for this style of application.
I would like to do something like this in my bathroom, yet it is way much smaller could it be done pre-mixed or how would that work for an area about 15ft. 4ft in the shape of a (L). leads to a wood floor would that be a problem. I have 1inch square tiles that I want to cover.
You Sir are a GENIOUS
This is a neat design and concept! Nice job! I will be interested in seeing how the concrete holds up after time as the wood subfloor, vinyl floor, and concrete all have different thermal expansion rates. I’m assuming the room is climate controlled though, so it may not matter.
The only way to prevent cracks on a wooden subfloor with self-levelling is to put tiling Decoupling matt. That way no matter how the subfloor moves the Decoupling matt will not allow the concrete to crack
Also feed it a decent amount of polymer
Looks like 1/8" to 3/8" thickness. Probably ok in a bedroom might crack over time especially in high traffic areas. Love the distribution method. You'd do this before a high quality flooring installation anyway with Self leveling compound.
Très bonne idée surtout pour des grandes surfaces 👍
Hey! Jessie! Brother gets big kudos for a very cool flooring gadget... Jessie, waiting to see where you are on the hoarder house!
Genius 👏👏
I have a 14x12 room to level. You mentioned you used 12 bags. How much water did you use? The viscosity looks really "watery", is that how it's supposed to be?
The change to the ball valve with the cap will work best to not have the spout vertical. I would simply let it lay horizontal so capping it won't get wet cement all over your hands.
Thank You man for this info
Nice video. Cool technique. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Thanks for watching!
Question,would the concrete floor break after walking on it if there’s any flex on the floor.
did i understood correctly or did you just pour only half (up to one ) centimeter of "concrete" as a floor finish? i hope thats not the end result, and you will place another finish on top. I think its going to crack soon. I might be wrong. Let us know
Self levelling concrete to prep a new floor... he literally explains that
I think that's it. The furniture is already back in place.
How smooth was the surface? I would love to do this in my garage,but I have everything on wheels.
Nice! My boss did something very similar using a metal bin to seal coat (instead of using our tank with the pump and hose and ya da ya da). 🎉 😊 .. lol we also had problems with our valve! As they say- great minds think alike.
Curious, I know you said you had it checked for asbestos, but even if it had been would this type of flooring application be OK over top of it? Since you are encasing it and not sanding/drilling it up?
Most times it’s the mastic adhesive that holds the tile down which can contain asbestos fibers. This is the concern when removing flooring.
I think he was just explaining that the reason they were pouring over the tiles was that it was too much work to remove them even though they didn't contain any asbestos. If it had contained asbestos they would have just poured the floor without even having tried to remove the tiles.
If you only use the cap to close the tip at the end of the downspout (the one with threads on the outside)
How are you going to control how much of the mixture comes out and wouldn't it he messy to close?
Do you think this kind of application could work with microcement?
I was think like a giant icing cone... 🤔
Sweet contraption! You said you had that floor tested for asbestos? Because it looks EXACTLY like Armstrong asbestos vinyl tile. I haven't tested mine, but I was able to Google an exact match from Armstrong.
Had you used a spiked roller it would've all leveled out perfectly smooth. Either way, great job and awesome idea. 3rd time's the charm!
How are you going to control the flow if you take the ball valve out of the equation? Bless you and your family aloha
This is amazing.. Could this same method be used to encapsulate asbestos tile?
Fenomenaaaaal thenksss
You're amazing.👍😍👍
wow so clever!
That, my Sir is a Super Genius Tool! If only you had a gate type of system to stop the flow of the leveling concrete when you need it.
Genius!! 💡💡
MIKE!!!!!!
This is absolutely genius! Just used self leveling in my house and this would have been sooo helpful! Definitely will do this next time! Thank you so much for sharing
Glad it was helpful! I didn't invent this after my last video a bunch of people sent me an IG clip of something similar but I couldn't find who the original creator weasand apparently its a a common thing with concrete workers.
Great thinking!! Prepping for the job is often the most time consuming. Really good planning to lay out materials, and lay out production. 👏🏼👏🏽👏 I was thinking of a valve like they use in honey spinners, with a child's beach bucket to catch drips. I like seeing cleanup, just as a note for future videos. Appreciate your time and effort in producing original content as well as sharing your brain child. ❤
Yes seeing cleanup is almost as helpful as seeing the prep! I really appreciate the prep tips here
What does the final surface finish feel like, does it feel nice and smooth underfoot or is it kind of rough like a high grit sand paper? Great video, thanks!
Genius!!
Freakin awesome I'm surprised in 35 years I hadn't seen 1 till now
This is a super brilliant solution. Thank you for sharing! How well does this hold up over the long time? I have a room with almost the exact same floor. I've currently got my gym set up in there, so there is a 6x6' space that has about 750-800 pounds sitting on it. Will that concrete hold up to that weight? Could this also be a a good option as a leveler if I decide to put down luxury vinyl plank over it?
I dont think most people will appreciate how AWESOME this is!! First off, mixing batches to remain consistent between mixes is NOT easy to do as one pour dries, and requires 2-3 people to keep up. I wonder if the only difference between the cheap underlayment levelers is color, vs the more expensive overlay products?
You can use a spike roller to get rid of those layer lines. Something I recommend.
You can also use some grease to coat the ball valve, or maybe some silicon at the start. It will make a barrier so what ever sticks on will get pushed off as you turn it and not get in between....IN THEORY :-)
I think it's awesome.
Did you uhhh seal it in any way. Or is it just raw and once you spill something on it you'll be living with a strain?
This is smart!