Does this extractor sound noisy to you? ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html is the video that compares extractor noise but the short version is: please don't use a youtube video to compare noise :-) You should know for this video; * I didn't reduce or alter the sound level in editing and * The microphone I was using is the one attached to the camera, I've not even got a tie mic and you can even hear the creak of the aluminium stool I stand on at 1:54 Because I could have played with sound levels in editing it's not a good idea to trust noise level comparisons on a youtube video. If noise level is a consideration check the manufacturers specification sheet. There's a standardised EU data sheet for every extractor so you can compare like with like, for this model it can be viewed here: media.miele.com/downloads/92/f1/04_F61547C6F7151EE89EB26124135E92F1.pdf Thanks for watching! Steve
@@prashanthireddig This video ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html tests the noise level of extractors, but to minimise noise the general rules are: a) Use the maximum size ducting (eg: 6 inch diameter or the square equivalent) b) Keep ducting runs as short as possible c) Avoid turning where possible. In reality, you're often limited by what you can do in the room/cabinets/design.
Good video, but it really needs an accompanying exhaust test for recirculating extractors. e.g. if it's not possible to extract externally and the exhaust just comes back into the kitchen, is the humidity/fat/smoke just coming back?
@@Pionirish Great question. Recirculation doesn't change humidity in the room (or more correctly, doesn't remove the increase in humidity from boiling water) so if you're building a new home in the UK you need to have another form of ventilation to meet building regulations. The rate of this is much lower than an extractor and sometimes includes whole house ventilation and heat recovery. For fats & smoke, they should be caught on the grease filter which can then be put in the dishwasher (and being so accessible is more likely to be cleaned as its so easy to remove compared to overhead extractors). Of course, you can still duct these outside and we often do.
i just fitted a kitchen with the same extractor and honestly its too loud , although it has two speed options ,the low speed is useless and full speed is absolutely annoying ,costumer did not expect it either
Does this extractor sound noisy to you? If you think it does and you're comparing extractor models please don't use a youtube video to compare noise :-) You should know for this video; * I didn't reduce or alter the sound level in editing and * The microphone I was using is the one attached to the camera, I've not even got a tie mic and you can even hear the creak of the aluminium stool I stand on at 1:54 Because I could have played with sound levels in editing it's not a good idea to trust noise level comparisons on a youtube video. If noise level is a consideration check the manufacturers specification sheet. There's a standardised EU data sheet for every extractor so you can compare like with like, for this model it can be viewed here: media.miele.com/downloads/92/f1/04_F61547C6F7151EE89EB26124135E92F1.pdf Thanks for watching! Steve
considering your experience do you think this system is quite enough or it's too loud compared to other competitors. Are you able to find other system like this that are more silent? thanks for the test was very helpful!
@@esserre94 Short answer: I would have this model in my house if I had an island & the budget. We've customers happy with the Neff model too. Long answer: I think it's comparable in noise to others I've seen and heard (Neff & Bora). It may be quieter to use a ceiling mounted flat-to-the-ceiling type (eg: www.neff-home.com/uk/productlist/extractor-hoods/ceiling-installation/integrated-ceiling-hoods/I97CPS8W5B or www.miele.co.uk/e/cooker-hoods-built-in-da-2808-ext-brilliant-white-10751530-p ,especially the external motor versions). Ceiling models can be harder to fit and service (filters need cleaning, how will you reach them?). Installation also affects sound level (recirculation vs extracted to an outside wall, size of ducting used & number of bends means bigger ducting and less turns allow air to move more quietly).
@@TheBoobanMaybe I'm just quietly spoken 😉. Seriously though, I like your logic but I don't think it's useful to compare any extractor sound level in a youtube video. I'd suggest everyone looks to the standardised tests (linked above) for extractors they're considering and compare a) Sound Level with b) Rate of extraction. Standing next to any extractor at full power will make it harder to have a conversation in the room. In hindsight, maybe I should have edited the audio to reduce the extractor volume and increase my voice.
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful
It's an interesting concept, but I'm skeptical of its ability to capture aerosol grease particles that - if not ventilated - end up everywhere in the kitchen. And if it is powerful enough to suck those in as well, what about crumbs? A spilled bit of seasoning? Escaped pasta? Utensils? Peas right off the plate? How often do you need to clean it out if it's sucking up everything in sight?
I don't live locally, but would certainly buy from you if I did - this is exactly what I wanted to know about these hobs - including how noisy they are. I am giong to get one and am so sorry that I can't get it from you. Very best wishes.
I know, they're great aren't they! There are so many projects I want to do with raspberry Pi's and similar, if I only I had more free time to play and make more videos
hehe, the Harrier was an awesome jet - I wish I could afford one and a big enough showroom to put it in :-) For this video, I didn't reduce or alter the sound level when editing and the microphone on my camera picks up things like the creek when I stood on the aluminum stool to blow on the humidistat. That means this video (I'd go as far as to say any video) is not a good way of comparing noise levels of extractors. There is an EU standard requiring manufacturers to test and publish noise levels and other details though and that is as directly comparable between models as you could possible get. You can find them on manufacturers web sites (for this model, media.miele.com/downloads/92/f1/04_F61547C6F7151EE89EB26124135E92F1.pdf ) Thanks for the comment
Hi Fat Tony, I love your harrier comment so much, I featured it in a video where I tested the noise level on this hob :-) ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html I hope you enjoy it!
Excellent video, thanks for sharing. I wonder if you'd be able to do a similar video for the 'downdraft' extractors which I've seen pop up behind hobs etc. I'm hoping to find something compatible with an electric range cooker.
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful (and sorry to say, as an aviation nut myself your comment was narrowly missed out featuring in that video, beaten by the comparison to a Harrier jet 😄)
Could you let me know if in case this goes under a wall cabinet (not on the kitchen island), would the 50cm distance from the hob be enough or would the heat damage the bottom of the cabinet? One of the kitchen suppliers was advising againts hob with integrated extractor, claiming the heat would damage the inside of the cabinet, too much heat would draw to your legs, and ultimately it would ruin your floor as well. We can only go with recirculate airflow in the new apartment..we can either choose a built-in extractor in the wall cabinet ( still unclear to me how would it circulate the air unless the top of the cabinet is open) or this type of hob. Would be also great to hear if this goes next to a wall, how much cleaning you need to do on the kitchen's backsplash (eg.: same as with a normal hob with extractor above or more)! Thank you for your answer!
> would the 50cm distance from the hob be enough You'd have to check the specifications of the hob and the furniture supplier, but generally I think 50cm is always too close - you'll have to duck to look at the pans cooking. Personally I aim for at least 76cm. I'd also be choosing a regular extractor at this point though, integrated or telescopic. > would the heat damage the bottom of the cabinet Over an electric hob, I'd be more worried about steam damage. >One of the kitchen suppliers was advising againts hob with integrated extractor, claiming the heat would damage the inside of the cabinet Not something I've experienced or seen before. The warm air travels through ducting (as it would in top cupboards) so I don't see it would ever be an issue. The hot steam is also mixing with air from the room as it's drawn into the extractor so I can't see it would ever be hot enough to cause cabinet damage. > too much heat would draw to your legs, That depends on where you put the outlet vent ;-) When recirculating you definitely notice the blow of air more than a recirculating hood that's blowing out across the ceiling. > and ultimately it would ruin your floor as well Before leaves the plinth it's gone through metal filters (for moisture and grease) and carbon filers (for smell). Moving air will leave trails over time (now you're going to start looking at vents and grills everywhere you go - if air is pumped through them you'll eventually see slightly darker lines of dust being left) but as this is on the floor it will be cleaned more often than a ceiling so I don't think marks would be left and I don't think it would ruin the kitchen floor. >We can only go with recirculate airflow in the new apartment..we can either choose a built-in extractor in the wall cabinet ( still unclear to me how would it circulate the air unless the top of the cabinet is open) or this type of hob. **I'd be choosing the built in extractor, and vents to the open cabinet top (or a grill in a ceiling infil).*** Unless there's a reason not to... there's always an exception after all! For example here's a good reason a wall mounted hood wouldn't fit: www.houzz.com/photos/painted-porcelain-and-blue-shaker-style-cabinetry-rustic-kitchen-kent-phvw-vp~108802023 >Would be also great to hear if this goes next to a wall, how much cleaning you need to do on the kitchen's backsplash (eg.: same as with a normal hob with extractor above or more)! Same as normal I believe (not tested for that). Perhaps a tiny amount less as the air is all being drawn down but I don't think that would be a noticeable difference. So far every hob like this we've installed has been in an island/peninsular with no wall behind it so I don't have any past customers I could call and ask I hope that's useful and sorry for the wall of text! Steve
I would love to test odour capture! I've not found a way of measuring smell though. Carbon filters have been used for years and in industry so I assume they work... but I really would like prove it to myself so if you have any ideas please let me know!
Thanks for taking the time to comment. For heat being sucked out, yes! You're absolutely right. To avoid that you can use the recirculation option (through carbon filters for odour).The heat (and humidity from cooking) being extracted applies to all externally ducted extractors and well as this type of venting hob. Low energy homes often don't have ducted extraction over hobs for this reason, or pass the extracted air through heat exchangers. For noise, see this video: ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html ;-)
Yes, that's right. In the UK for new rooms (new build/extension) you have to also have mechanical extraction to meet building regulations and prevent high humidity levels, and thus prevent other issues high humidity brings. If you can duct your hob extractor to outside the hob itself meets the building regulation requirement so you don't need a second extractor.
Hi Steve , great video, ducting to outside always preferred method for me, but what clearances does the ducting need under the floor, for example my floor is concrete so does that mean the ducting version is impossible for me?
Unlikely to be possible, but not impossible. The bigger the duct, the quieter+more effective the extraction, so 6 inch is expected (150mm diameter round or the equivalent area as a square, and I'll skip a description here as to why round is better than square due surface area contact). If you can put a large channel in your floor to carry ducting then you can do it, which we did in this room: ruclips.net/video/EXzvBNbloK8/видео.html This room/video has/shows a Bora X Pure. It was easy to plan this at the design stage before the extension was built and we co-ordinated with the builder for this to work (which means I went out and marked on the sub floor where the ducting had to come up during the build, the builder fitted the ducting then built up the floor insulation and screed around it, tiled and we fitted the island on top). If you have to have recirculating I think that's an acceptable compromise for an island hob with no hood in the way of your eyeline (but remember if it's a new build you'll still need a smaller extractor/ventilation for building regs, and I'd look into humidstat fans for that).
great video, however im not convinced by this concept. I imagine it need to be on max speed to trap the smoke making a lot of noise and if you lift the pan to mix the food it will loose suction. But your videos did help with my skepticism. Thank you.
If I've a hob against a wall I still design with a wall mounted extractor. For noise, it's depends more upon the motor design and ducting. My video ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html talks about noise on extractors with the short answer being: Check the EU standard noise test results for the extractor you're looking at, to compare between models (and since this video I've bought better microphones!).
Hi Robert, and anyone else also looking for duct size information. Simple rule: The bigger the duct the better. Aim for 6"/150mm nominal ducting (or it's rectangular equivalent). Aim for short runs with as few bends as possible (check out brand: Compair Flow for ducting that has air guide vanes built into bends, improving flow rate and reducing noise of flowing air). Complicated rule: If you are going for a carbon neural design you'll be looking to duct through/exchange stale air through a heat exchanger. Sometimes you'll use a recirculating air setup with carbon filters on the hob. Inevitably the building design impacts what you can actually achieve with ducting routes. Kind regards and thanks for commenting, Steve Feb - Aug 2022: Hi reader. If you're feeling generous, please consider donating a few pounds to my personal challenge to climb a mountain. All donations go directly to 3 chosen charities. More about why I'm doing this here: www.roots.uk/expedition-w3w and you can jump straight to the donation page here sponsorme.charitiestrust.org/event/cbdf1e64-4af4-4905-865d-49ebaedb105b
That's right, which is not always easy to do so most of the ones we fit use the recirculating filter option. The hob in this video ruclips.net/video/EXzvBNbloK8/видео.html is ducted outside under the floor because we were involved in the design phase of the extension.
How would that extractor cope with a large accidental spillage? Say, if you knocked over a litre of boiling milk, or an unsupervised pot boiled over and inundated it with hot sticky liquid or oil?
Hi Steve, I'm currently in my final year of Architectural Technology and I am doing my dissertation on smart buildings. This includes programming a Raspberry Pi to collect data about the humidity of a building. I was wondering if I could ask you a few questions regarding this? thank you, I look forward to hearing back from you! Mollie
Hi, great video. Do you have knowledge on ducting to external versus recirculating within the island units? We are struggling to get a duct connection but are worried if the recirculating option will actually work or cause problems? Any advice welcome, thanks
thanks 😊Answer Short version: Recirculating works, just remember to replace the carbon filters from time to time to remove cooking odours Long version: I would love to find a way to test carbon filters effectiveness at removing odour but I've not found an official test to copy or a rating scale. However, carbon/odour filters have been used for many years in kitchen and also in industry, so I'm confident they work. One advantage to recirculating is that you're not taking your warm home air outside and having to reheat new air coming into the home. One disadvantage is that you still need some form of external extraction (for building regs, essentially to stop humidity building up in the home). A small extractor fan can do this, I like the humidistat controlled versions that boost when humidity is high then drop to a low flow rate at other times. The total volume of extraction of these is much lower than a kitchen extractor but they are allowed/work because they run continuously rather than rely on being turned on when someone is cooking. I hope that helps Steve
thanks for the excellent demo. We intend buying an ikea kitchen and they offer the FÖRDELAKTIG as an induction with a downward draft. Do you know of other brands that would fit their kitchens that you sell?
You need the cabinet dimensions, the appliance dimensions and then to compare the two. Checking that Ikea hob, the surface is 83cm wide, 52cm front to back, it needs worktop greater than 55.5cm, and the motor makes it 24.5cm thick - all of which is fairly normal for venting hob dimensions so my instinct is that all manufacturers hobs would fit into Ikea cabinets. The ducting route & dimensions is something to be aware of. It looks like their hob has the ducting running down inside the cabinet which may or may not clash with drawers (that applies to the Ikea hob in that cabinet too, or to another hob brand in the ikea cabinet, or the ikea hob in another furniture brand cabinet). It can be useful to allow for deeper than 60cm worktops if you have space as that can make fitting ducting (and other pipework) easier but likely adds to the cost of the furniture/worktops. Also, we only sell in East Kent, south east corner of the UK and the brands we've chosen are Neff, Bora, Miele but there's no reason to exclude other brands in your search - we're a small business and don't try to sell everything to everyone 🙂Good luck with your search, you might also find this video useful ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html Steve
If you connect the ducting to outside, it goes outside. If you recirculate some of the humidity is caught temporarily on the filters the rest returns to the room (and all of it returns to the room eventually). This is the same as over hob extractors. I have an experiment in mind to play with steam and humidity to demonstrate this but it will be a while before have time to play :-)
Ah great video, well prepared and delivered - I'm sold. Now that I'm looking to buy my first home, I only discovered hob built extractors - much better in my opinion. The only con is you lose the overhead lighting but a well lit kitchen will suffice. I was very impressed to see the Raspberry Pi set up! It's actually a very accurate testing mechanism to be honest, well done.
Thanks, and +1 for not mentioning the noise level (covered in ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html when I bought a better microphone) 🙂 For the light, you're right, we'd normally position recessed ceiling lights over the hob and surface. The other con is often the price (often more expensive than a separate hob and extractor) Generally we use these in islands where we don't want to have to duck to look past a hanging ceiling extractor and don't want a flush ceiling extractor (as they can be hard for customers to clean and maintain). If the room has the hob against a wall we almost always use a separate hob + regular wall mounted extractor.
@@RootsKent I think that last point is worth emphasising. Most kitchens have a hob against the wall (only big kitchens can afford the luxury of an island), so you'd actually advocate the traditional wall mounted extractor for most kitchens. Why is that? Is the benefit of this only aesthetically for islands?
@@donovanvaz3289 Yes, when not in an island/peninsular we almost always recommend a wall mount over hob against walls because; a) Cost is often less (obviously depending on models chosen) b) Easier future replacements (a Roots we plan for long working life kitchens so have to consider how easy things are to replace over the next 20 years) c) A wall mount extractor is not an aesthetic compromise (many options to worth either concealed into furniture or as a feature in their own right) An exception is when we don't have the room height to fit an extractor or duct routing would cause a different problem.
Thanks. You'll be pleased to know I bought better microphones after this and did a video demonstrating just the sound level: ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html :-)
Yes on high speed, what about slow speed which most people use for cooking if it's a decent extractor, remember hot air rises and always far better to extract outside if possible.
Hi. Are there any vented hobs that have the motor sited on an external wall? Or can any hob’s extractor be changed to a separately purchased outside motor?
Sorry for the slow reply, I've been busy with the real job :-) I haven't seen any. Miele have some external motors (or used to, I haven't looked for one for several years). Bora have a booster option that can along the ducting run if I recall, again I haven't needed that. The main question now though is why you need it? The built in hob motor is normally more than powerful enough to extract sufficient air (and the Bora option I recall is for very long duct runs). It used to be something we considered for noise reduction but a great deal of the noise you hear now is the moving air, which makes that noise wherever the motor is placed. Motors have got significantly quieter over time. There's another video i made comparing noise of extractor but the short version is; don't compare by listening on youtube, go to the EU standard specification which has standardised noise level test results. If you find the one for your current extractor (I think they go back 20 years or more) then I expect you'll see extractors can be quieter than your current model. I hope that helps, Steve
In recirculating mode, the air and humidity returns into the room. * In the UK for building regs you'll need a separate extractor, normally a small 100mm diameter model for background ventilation UNLESS you have an old style boiler, fire or aga that does not have a balanced flue and thus burns air from the room to work (extracting air would mean the carbon monoxide from the boiler, fire or aga would be drawn back into your room instead of existing via the flue). * I think the filters must trap some moisture but that will eventually evaporate back into the room. Also remember a lot of humidity in a home comes from our breathing which is why building regs require ventilation. The regs accept a kitchen extractor ducted to outside as meeting the ventilation requirement and the assumption is people use the extractor when cooking. Of course, you can connect these extractors to ducting to take the air and humidity outside of the room but the challenge is finding a route for the ducting.
About to refurb our kitchen and I had not thought of using a hob extractor such as this. Ours is against an external wall so could vent outside. However our oven and grill stand alongside the hob, and they are responsible for most smoke in the kitchen. Any suggestions as to extraction for that, near in mind we haveiw ceilings. Great video by the way
Against a wall, we normally use conventional wall mounted extractors. Smoke from oven/grill isn't something I've seen often or investigated to solve, but you can run the extractors all the time you're cooking. Typically an extractor can extract all the air in the room 10 times per hour (obviously depending on how it's specified, and not for fully open plan homes). The smoke may not all be removed immediately but it will help limit how much of it lingers or travels through the rest of the home.
Heat rises. So the steam and fat/oil vapour naturally rises. I believe an overhead extractor will be more efficient and quieter as it can be run at a lower speed. In an open plan kitchen, you can still have an overhead extractor. So I am afraid I am not converted. Please tell me what I missed.
"Please tell me what I missed" => nothing :-) I agree an overhead extractor will often be better (like www.miele.co.uk/e/ceiling-extractor-da-2808-brilliant-white-10851410-p - as close as quickly comes to mind for the equivalent overhead version of the extractor in this video), but; * They still have the same question of ducting or recirculation and whether that can be fitted (EG: in this kitchen ruclips.net/video/EXzvBNbloK8/видео.html overhead is not possible, although you never see the skylights in the video, sorry!) * We also need to consider access for servicing, for example changing and cleaning filters. If I can avoid needing customers to climb ladders or stand on worktops (or hobs 😬) then I'd generally want to. There's a balance to be found and it's different for every customer and every room, so you've not missed anything and no one needs to be converted
Hi, there are several things that impact the choice. Primarily - what your suppliers have access to/installers are used to is a good place to start. Then - budget. If you're staying for a long time you'll appreciate the quality of quieter models (see one of the other videos on noise from extractors built into hobs). Then - dimensions. Some recirculating models may use more width or worktop depth or height inside cabinet. Then - if you're against a wall, overhead extractors are still good options (especially if you're on a budget). Then - somewhere in there, the spec. Features like Flex Induction vs regular round zones and how much of a difference that makes to your use and budget. Sorry that's not a single option of "buy this one!" Flat implies limited space and storage, I quite like the Bora S Pure 60cm if the zone sizes work for you (they do for 90% of people I'd assume). If you need 4 x full size zones a regular 4 zone induction hob and extractor mounted over (I have this, 5 years ago venting hobs hadn't advanced enough to be right for my home. Today... vented would be tempting.) Hope that helps! Steve
Steve, nice video. Help please - where is the best place to put the exhaust from the unit? Want to minimise turbulence and draughts around the kitchen island.
To minimise draughts, Ideally ducting to outside. When recirculating, ideally not pointing towards your feet where you're standing when cooking but that's not always possible (and extra turns in ducting increase noise so you may trade one minor irritant for another).
Have you tried to Novy Panorama Pro? It looks like it has lower noise level and insted of catching the steam 180 degrees it's only 90 degrees. I'm considering buying one, but I really don't want to boost the fan just to catch some steam...if the Novy does the job better at a lower level, and afaik it does looking at the technical sheets.
I've heard of them but never seen one to play with. You can probably tell I will lean heavily on the technical sheets too, so couple that with a hands on look if you can (to consider cleaning, filter changing, etc),installation (how easy or not it is to fit in your cabinets), + cost of course, and if on balance it looks the best for your room that's perfect. I'm not sure the 90 degree / 180 degree would make too much of a difference to performance as the 180 degree is like 2 x 90 degree back to back with cooking either side. It might allow for larger filters so less noise generated from air moving through them? (For noise video see ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html ) From the view of using the hob, I think there's something to be said for a wide single row of cooking zones rather than 2x2 layout (if you have the width, it's perhaps nicer than leaning over one pan to stir the pan at the back, plus it might be useful for limiting depth required for hob & worksurface).
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful
We have just moved into a new property equipped with Neff extractor Hob, what we have is wet lichen floors since the moisture has to go somewhere! Currently having a big argument with the builder! Any suggestions?
Interesting! I've been investigating moisture and recirculating for a while but I'm some way off doing some proper tests. A few things to check/try: (I'm assuming lichen is autocorrect for kitchen... ) If it's a new property ducted to outside extraction is normally required but it doesn't have to be via the hob/extractor (see www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/kitchens-and-bathrooms/building-regulations-need-for-additional-ventilation) So if your hob has been installed as recirculating is there another extractor somewhere? It can be quite small, especially continuous running/trickle vents (humidistat controlled types boost when high moisture is detected). I'd have thought the room extraction would handle moisture from cooking (and it's not a problem I've come across, but as we're moving to more island hobs and recirculation it's what I'm curious to experiment with). If it's wet on the floor... then I'm assuming the exit vent is on the plinth and you have a tiled or cold floor and the moist air is condensing as it passes across the floor. But then I'm thinking that air should be slightly warmer and as it leaves the plinth diffuses and rises quickly. I'd assume it's not the whole floor and just the area by the vent? If it's the whole floor then I'd start to think it's something other than moist air recirculated from the hob. I'd be looking to rule out other sources now, eg: damp coming through the floor (screed still drying so the room humid enough for moisture to condense overnight as it cools, or a small slow leak hidden under cabinets or behind something that's just enough to cause high humidity without being high enough to show as water). I wonder if opening a window during and for a while after cooking reduces or removes the problem and I wonder if different cooking changes the impact (eg: does it happen if you're not using the hob to boil water for a week and eating oven meals. If it happens with the hob can you make it happen in the morning by cooking the same meal or just boiling water for 10 minutes). Sorry I haven't got an answer but when you solve it please come back and comment so other people can learn from your efforts too. Thanks and good luck, Steve
@@RootsKent - Hi Steve, thank you for your comprehensive reply. The Neff Induction Hob is installed in a large island unit, the installation by the builder was what he called a "short" ventilation duct which discharged into the plinth area underneath the island. This resulted the warm moist air being discharged from the gaps all around the bottom of the plinth kick board, causing moisture to condense all around the island unit on the concrete floor which is covered with Kardean flooring. At my request the duty from the hob extraction fan has been extended to the grille in the kick board, so that it exits at that point only. The first time we have used it, we noticed that the floor was becoming damp! My property is a new bungalow, and has an internal utility room adjacent to the kitchen, and there is an internal ventilation fan in this room, we have achieved some success keeping the door open and utilising this fan. We have not tried opening the kitchen window, since it defeats the object of keeping the room heated! I feel that this is a classic issue of something that looks good in the showroom, but in reality, present some issues such as condensation onto hard impermeable floor surfaces. We use a steamer to cook our vegetables, and have been trying differing levels of power input from the induction hob to limit the amount of steam being generated. I will keep you updated on progress with this issue. Regards George
Very good video, straight to the point. I am considering moving into a house and they have a hob like this one. I was wondering if it was only some stupid design and how to clean it should the pan overflow ( like when making jam!). It seems actually fine and easy to clean. Thanks for this video.
** Important note on Jam on induction below!** Thanks for commenting, hopefully you found the video where I spilled a whole jar of bolognaise sauce into the hob ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html For Jam - the temperature of the sugars if spilled on the glass can damage the glass (something to do with the very high temperature of the sugars and a chemical reaction that happens, I forget the detail). For an induction hob you can put a heatproof layer between the pan and glass. Years ago I was told a tea towel will work, but I expect baking paper would too. That way any spills are caught by the towel/paper and don't land on the glass. If it does, the glass will be pitted, but no fail, so just become harder to clean and be generally annoying. Regular jam making is still a good reason to consider a gas hob (one of the few good reasons now!)
Be curious to see a pot on the far end instead of the inner part of the cooktop. Furthermore with a pot in each to see if the outside pot still gets sucked in.
There are only 4 zones on this hob (and most I've seen like it) so they're all equally distant from the extractor in the centre. This was a small pan but centred on the zone, so for larger pans I've seen them work just the same (See ruclips.net/video/9EzfRvEG0ys/видео.html although I had the extractor on the minimum setting to limit the noise pickup on the microphone).
Hi Steve. I appreciate your thoroughness. Have you measured the efficiency of side mounted downward extractor on induction hobs that are not square but the wider ones, with 6 cooking zones? I'm worried that the furthest two pots from the extractor would not be efficiently served, and from esthetic point of view the induction hobs with extractor in the middle are not acceptable for me.
Sorry Lukasz, I've not got one on display to test. In case it helps; We've sold that type in the past though and no-one has told me they've had a problem If you were our customer, with the aesthetic being so important, I'd be suggesting you go for your preference as I suspect most of the time you wont be using every pot zone so even if performance at the front zones isn't perfect, the compromise is worthwhile for the aesthetic. I hope that helps
is the condensation collected anywhere or is it extracted along with the air on the other side of the bench? Oh, and if it is collected how much liquid it copes with?
Hi, sorry for the long reply about to follow... ok, I'm not sorry :-) Short version: Not enough condensation captured to be a problem, so yes most goes through the fans and outside(ducted) or back into room (recirculation). Liquid: For spills, see ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html where I spill Bolognese sauce into his hob. So this applies to all extractors, some of the moisture in the air will be captured by the metal filters as condensation. I can't tell you how much.... but now you've asked that could be a fun experiment. Leave that with me...., Some of the moisture will travel all the way through. Not enough moisture is captured to be a problem and I've always assumed it evaporates back into the air over time. These type of extractors have catch trays for other spills (see my other video: ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html where I spill sauce into this hob) and from memory around 200ml seems a common catch tray size and that's after however much moisture is captured by the mesh. Wall hoods don't have any catch tray, which is why I don't think condensation beyond the grease filter is an issue. Therefore, I'm assuming that moist of the moisture travels all the way through and out the wall if you have ducting or back into the room if you have recirculating. In the UK, if you have a new build house and a recirculating extractor you need to have another form of air extraction in the room - often a small fan - to manage the humidity and atmosphere of living in a well sealed and energy efficient new build home (think: humidity in air you breath, sweat, odours, stale air that you've breathed out, etc), so that's another reason I think most humidity passes through the extractor (if the filter was catching it, it would all evaporate back into room and we'd still need separate extractors for our building regulations). I hope that helps, Steve (I welcome any reader with more knowledge to chip in here!)
Hi, Almost all of these are induction hobs in the UK (Almost all of our sales are now for electric hobs rather than gas) so it's not a problem we see. However, if the gas versions are disturbing the flame and reducing the flames efficiency at putting heat into the pan I suspect you'd simply turn the flame up to compensate. Most hob cooking is not done at full power, or it uses full power for a few minutes to get a pan of water boiling and then gets turned down to simmer. The time for cooking is more dependant upon how quickly the heat enters the food rather than how much heat/how quickly you can put into the pan. Example: I once ruined a non stick pan by having the hob set too hot whilst cooking sausages.
Hey im putting one of these in a new build.. The extractor will be in the same room as a stove.. The stove will have a vent out through the wall also..building control have told me once fitted they want to do a smoke test to make sure that the extractor isn't taking to much oxygen out of the room.. Do you think i will have any issues with it pulling out to much air.. Thanks
Yes that's a problem - don't do it! ... more detail on why below: It sounds like your stove is more than just a hob, maybe an gas/oil powered AGA/range also running heating and it burns air from the room. The burnt gas exits the stove through the vent to outside (otherwise you'd be poisoned by the CO2 released when burning gas). If you have an extractor in the room that vents to outside, the air it pushes out has to be replaced. The stove vent becomes an easy way for air to flow back into the room, so the gas you wanted to take outside is now back in your room, and that's bad. It doesn't help to close that vent just when the extractor is running either, because if the stove is also running it's producing CO2 and you really want that to leave the room so you're not poisoned. If you're now wondering why we can have boilers in kitchens and still extract outside, modern boilers have a "balanced flue". If you look you'll see there's a pipe within a pipe so the boiler combustion chamber is fed with fresh air from outside and the burnt air exits through the same double pipe. This is also why with modern boilers we don't need air vents to outside. In older homes you'll often find large holes in the wall to allow air to flow in replacing the air a boiler or fireplace has burnt. Holes like this let the cold air in too, which is why modern buildings generally avoid open fires as this makes them less efficient. What do we do: In rooms with an appliance that burns gas or oil that has a traditional flue, we NEVER duct outside. We recirculate. Recirculation is fine though. You'll have to replace carbon filters occasionally but they are effective at removing smells. For humidity and building regs you might need a low volume mechanical extractor or it might be the open vent meets the requirements. I always find myself going back to read the regs in detail to make sure I've got our specific use case correct - try assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/1045918/ADF1.pdf I hope that helps Steve
Oh yes, I love the raspberry Pi. This pi became a bot that posted a daily photo of the orchard next to us to twitter, www.roots.uk/our-little-twitter-bot-viewfromroots before twitter changed and made that too expensive. I have plans for another video that will use a Pi but I've been too busy to have time to play. One day soon ... 🙂 Steve
Ah, they do, I manually overrode the automatic setting for this video. Most of these style of hobs either a) turn the extractor on automatically and vary setting depending on power setting of hob, or b) use a sensor (probably a humidistat hidden behind a marketing name) to vary the speed automatically.
Sorry, we don't sell AEG so I dont know. However many hobs like this are now specified as ducted or recirculating when you order them, so they come with some of the right parts for recirculating (filters mostly, and even for recirculating there are times when you'll want to use ducting specific to your room to recirculate the air).
@@RootsKent thank you, I’m finding it so hard to find out any information on this! I’ve ordered the AEG 6000, it says it’s recirculating so it will use carbon filters, however, the guy in wren is saying we should be able to duct it… but can I get any info… not as yet! My builder needs to know so he knows what to do with the floor! Do you think I’ll have any issues with it being recirculated anyway? I’m panicking as I always thought it was going out the wall! 🫣
@@eyeliciousbrowlashskinclin6671 surely Wren should know this, especially if they specified it.... still, on the AEG site they have different models for ducted vs recirculating so I'd normally order the correct one (otherwise there can be issues with warranty even if an unrelated fault develops). www.aeg.co.uk/kitchen/cooking/hobs/extractor-hob/?d2cSellable=true Checking www.aeg.co.uk/kitchen/cooking/cooker-hoods/induction-hob-with-extractor/tch74b01cb/ it looks like it vents to the void behind the cabinet (not for use on a building's outside wall, potential condensation from warm air cooling quickly) but there's a reasonable chance that's a standard size duct outlet and you can buy ducting to fit... though ducting can be hard to find and not inexpensive. There's also a chance the ducted vs recirculating models may have different settings to suit their use (eg power setting of the fans, whether other parts are fitted or not to hold filters). If you get it and duct it post back as maybe someone else is having the same question. Thanks and good luck! Steve
Hi there I am really torn as to if I should get a hood or an extractor built into the hob. My worry is that hob based extractors are significantly worse than hood ones. For me the extractor is one of the most important applicances is the extractor, since I don't like my entire living room smelling of food. Also function is more important than looks for me in this regard. Do they work as effectively or better than hood based extractors? Laws of thermodynamics say that steam rises and downdraft tries to counteract this. What are your experiences? Also most built in hob extractors seem to operate around the 500m^3/h mark while I have seen hood extractors around the 1000 m^3/h mark.
> I am really torn as to if I should get a hood or an extractor built into the hob You've come to the right place :-) > My worry is that hob based extractors are significantly worse than hood ones It depends on what and why you're choosing. Hob based extractors like this Miele model out perform made-to-the-lowest-cost wall mounted hoods every time. You can compare performance parameters from the EU product data fiche (mentioned at the end of the noise video I did recently - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html ). >Laws of thermodynamics say no given that steam rises. What are your experiences? That's why I built a humidistat to test. They are equally good to wall mounted hoods (subject to being comparable power/noise/ducting etc). >Also function is more important than looks for me in this regard. Do they work as effectively or better than hood based extractors? Yes, for an equal product spec/rate/etc, they perform equally. My general rule is I use these where I don't have a wall (islands/peninsulas). Ceiling mounted extractors are also a good option but I can struggle with ensuring it's easy for the customer to maintain them (wash and replace filters). Extractors that hang from the ceiling have easy to reach filters but are often in the line of sight to be annoying when using the kitchen and talking to people. If you are against a wall, I'd stick with a wall mounted hood. If you are in an island, the built in hob extractor is often the best option today If you're reading this very long reply and found it useful, please click like on the video and subscribe. That helps other people like us find answers like this and helps me be seen by people local to our small business that need rooms done well. Thanks! Steve.
@@RootsKent Thanks for the reply! In terms of performance do you know if Siemens / Miele / Bora perform similarly or if one is better than the other in terms of suction?
@@Persason I'd always look to the specification sheets for the models you're looking at. The standardised EU testing means you can fairly compare between them (see link in the pinned comment on this video). Remember actual performance will vary depending on your room, ducting used, etc. Performance isn't the only worthwhile criteria though, I'd also consider how they look, how they fit into cupboards (eg: if they take away space you need for storage), how easy filters are to access and clean (I did a video spilling bolognaise into one as an example) and any cooking functions and features they have that may have an impact on the one that's best for you.
Yes. If you're replacing an extractor that's ducted you'll most likely need to continue to extract outside though (building regulations/moisture level control in the property) If you can't connect this style of extractor to outside (as you probably can't run ducting through the floor and if you've using it in an island) then you can fit this style of hob as recirculating (with carbon filters for smell) and a secondary small extractor elsewhere (possibly using the same exterior vent hole, we've used humidistat controlled versions for this in the past).
Our recommendation changes depending on our customers needs. We like Miele, Neff & Bora models but remember we're a small business and don't get to see and play with every manufacturers products. The choice is often a factor of price, installation (how and where ducting connects, space taken inside of cabinet) and aesthetic (see the 'black and brass' video ruclips.net/video/EXzvBNbloK8/видео.html - this Bora model is all black whereas the Miele in this video has stainless steel).
Hi, I'm looking at ordering one of these hobs but the kitchen company is telling me that they are not suitable to install with cupboards above due to the amount of condensation? I read in the Elica manual that they are fine but just need to have a minimum 50cm between the hob and the cupboards. If you have any real world experience of this and don't mind sharing please let me know. Many thanks!
Hi Matthew, from my experience, both are technically correct! However... Whilst you can have cupboards 50cm above induction hobs, I think that's too low for everyday use * I would be ducking and peering under the cupboards to see the pans at the back, and I'm only 5'10"/178cm tall!) * see also: next video about to be released on self cleaning ovens, which I filmed at home and you can see the extractor steps up over my hob for exactly this reason. For moisture, * I'd still be very alert to potential damage over time. I think it's hard to assume that users of the hob/extractor would always turn it on fully and leave it running after the hob heating is turned off. * Higher than 50cm would be less likely to damage giving time for any escaped steam to dissipate a little. * I'd probably be looking to use some sort of wipeable/damp proof finishing panel in that area So, in this case I prefer your kitchen company's answer over the Elica answer! I'd also argue that if you've space for wall units over a venting hob, then you've space for a regular wall mounted extractor (of a myriad design styles, so aesthetics shouldn't be a problem). At which point, I'd probably* be have a non venting induction hob and separate extractor based on a) ease of future replacements should either fail b) probably total cost is less. We use venting hobs mostly in islands/peninsulars. Against a wall (not that I can remember us doing this) I'd be assuming no wall units as an overall aesthetic. *Reasons that won't work: Low eaves meaning maybe you can't duct outside from a wall mounted extractor, other wall features/protrusions/piers/nibs/beams that make it too complicated fit around.
@@RootsKent Thank you for the great advice! Looks like I'll go for a recirculating extractor above the induction then... unfortunately venting isn't an option for an extractor above the hob due to the presence of a beam. There is the possibility to vent it if I use the elica but it sounds like it wouldn't be the best idea due to the possibility of water damage to the wall units over time? Thank you again!!
Short answer: Yes - that's the best practice. Long answer: Yes, and this model will automatically turn it's extractor on as soon as your turn on a hot zone :-). The reason is it takes time to start moving the air to make it flow. Starting the extractor soon often allows you to run it at a lower speed (so it's quieter). Once you finish cooking you should often leave the extractor running on low, so you'll still collect humidity and smells from pans on the hob taking advantage of the flow you've built up whilst not having so much noise. Many extractors (95% sure this model does) automatically run for 10 minutes on low setting before switching off for this reason. If you're extracting to outside, you may also need to consider where the air you're removing is being replaced from. It could be enough from the gaps around doors into the room or you may benefit from opening a window slightly. If you have an 'open flue' appliance (a boiler or fire that gets air to burn from the room it's in) we're not allowed to fit extractors ducted to outside. They'll pull the air out of the room, sucking the burnt air from the chimney back into the room and that creates a strong risk of carbon dioxide poisoning.
I noticed there was still some humidity that the sensor was picking up. The baseline with the extractor fan on is still higher than the baseline when the pot wasn’t boiling. My takeout: the extractor fan is a good product. Much better than I thought it was going to be. But not better than an overhead range hood.
@@markh1ggins hard to say but I would say less than in the table top extractor. The grease and steam is hot so is already rising upwards towards the overhead
All extractors have standardised EU data sheets so you can compare various performance metrics and these should be available from the manufacturer. This particular model has a datasheet at media.miele.com/downloads/92/f1/04_F61547C6F7151EE89EB26124135E92F1.pdf The noise level is given for different rates of extraction and those rates are different for each model, so they are not directly comparable but give a good indicator as to what you can expect. For example this model says 49dB at 170m3/hr and 71dB at 490m3/hr. The noise level also varies depending on whether it is recirculating or ducted and the natural acoustics of the room. Having said all that, my instinct is that all extractors that draw the air down are going to need to move more air faster than extractors overhead and my *assumption* therefore is they will generally be noisier as a result. The only way to know for certain is to compare the model specification sheets and I've seen some traditional extractors that are very noisy, especially where they're made to the lowest price possible. I hope that helps!
Thanks for saying hello, and yes I still think these are the best option/design/solution for hobs being placed on islands or peninsulars. See the follow up video that covers noise ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html which will help you pick between models from different manufacturers. There are a lot of good questions that have been asked over the last 3 years in these comments so it's worth scrolling down to learn more.
Sorry for the slow reply, I've been busy with the real job :-) Yes, they work. Although I've yet to find a way of testing the effectiveness of odour removal. Anecdotally carbon filters have been removing smells for years and I've not met anyone in the industry that says they don't work. That does assume the filters are replaced regularly of course. Many clients that say to us they don't work have never replaced the filters. When to change the filters is also hard to say as it will vary depending on the type and amount of cooking you are doing. Most manufacturers recommend between 6 months and 12 months. Some newer types of filter are designed to be 'refreshed'/'regenerated' in an oven and can be effective for years. These cost more and are larger and I've noticed the trend is away from this style as consumers are choosing easier to access and/or less expensive to initially buy filter models. I hope that helps, Steve
How tall? Next time I'm filming I'll see if I can get hold of one to test. (That will probably be a few months though, we're a small kitchen retailer and very busy right now). My assumption is it will work fine based on how high above the hob I had the humidistat.
I think, barely any noticeable effect... but that sounds like an interesting experiment (for when I'm less busy!). I think heat transfer to air is very slow and although moving air can transfer more heat it's still going to be very slow. So I think hot pan will cool almost as slowly with the extractor on as with the extractor off.
Hi Raj, thanks for the comment and question All the extractor manufacturers publish the noise levels in their appliance specifications and there are a number of variables and caveats that are relevant so it's worth looking at the details relative to your own design plans. For example, ducted setups generally have a higher extraction rate and lower noise level than recirculating setups. They are also affected by the type of ducting you use (bigger = better), how many bends there are (less = better) and how long the ducting is (shorter = better). Comparing models is hard because they also have different extraction rates between models and manufacturers so a hood may be quieter because it's doing less work. All of this before we take into account the room acoustics (for example, the difference between a tile floor vs a carpet floor) For this extractor I used the 'boost' setting (noisiest), our setup is recirculating and the manual says: 510m3/hr, 77dB(A) re 1pW) == 63dB(A) re 20 µPa The microphone used is the one built into the video camera and although I'm pretty sure I made no adjustments to the sound levels on the recording (up or down) I wouldn't base choosing one extractor over another based on a youtube clip sound recording :-) This is the only working 2 in 1 hob we have on display so I've not tested any other brands but from experience I'd expect similar performance and noise from Neff's 'venting hob' or the Bora models. Generally, I've found extractors work fine on medium or high settings (rather than 'boost' or 'intensive') if you turn them on as soon as you go to start cooking and allow time for a flow of air to build up. Also to leave them running on low for a while after cooking as that flow will still help capture air and remove the smells. Many extractors now come with an automatic run on timer (including this model). I hope that helps! Steve PS - If you like Raspberry Pi, you might like to see how this Pi got reused after the video: www.rkbb.co.uk/tweets-from-viewfromroots
Hi, do you think these work well? Im thinking of putting indunction with vent instead of a rangehood in new kitchen, but its difficult to get good opinions and feedback.. this design helps alot with my design but im not sure if these inductions with inbuilt vent do a reliable job
That's what I was testing in this video by setting up a humidstat :-) I would have one on an island or peninsular. Against a normal wall we use a regular hood. - This is also what we recommend to customers too. For reliable job: with all extractors remember to start them running before you start cooking and leave them running on low for a short while after. It takes time to get a flow of air going. Many models now automatically turn on when you start cooking and run on automatically too.
@@jaytee1205 Against a wall works fine too, but at that point if you can use a regular hood and hob you have more choice at (often) lower price points for the same performance level. Aesthetically though, If you're aiming for the look of a clear wall then the venting hobs achieve that and is perfect.
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful (at the end I talk about where to get comparisons between models, which would include regular wall mounted extractors)
Ooo! They've become far more efficient recently! Ours automatically senses the temperatures of the cookware and starts itself, increases it's extraction based on the sensed temperatures and even biases the extraction from one side of the job to the other! Who would ever have thought it! 🤔🧐. 😵💫😵💫😵💫 Bloody expensive though... 😅
This one (and the Neff one we've sold, and when I last looked in detail at a Bora model) are designed so that spills down the vent hole won't do damage. for this model the pull out vents have a catch tray underneath them and that whole pull out unit can be put in the dishwasher. Below that is a further catch tray that can be removed from within the cabinet.
See this video: ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html The first amount of water (depending on hob, assume half a litre ish) is caught by the filter. Any more will fall to the tray at the bottom (you see me cleaning Bolognese off that tray in video). The fans are mounted below the hob and suck 'upwards', so the water can't reach the fan blades and motor, or at least that would be several litres of water and if you have that much water pouring into your hob you may have bigger problems to worry about.
For noise, this video ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html talks about the sound levels of these extractors. Effective at low speeds? That's an interesting question. I can't give numbers or objective values but subjectively I think it starts automatically on low and middle speeds and they've been effective for the short demonstrations we do in the showroom. In this video I did put it on full noisiest power level to see if it could capture all the steam. Hope that helps
Good question. Recirculating extractors have been an option for a long time (and commonly chosen, sometimes to save the cost of drilling walls, sometimes due to restricted access for ducting, sometimes due to regulations extractor air from a room with gas appliance and flue) and I've not known this humidity alone to be a problem. The metal mesh will collect an amount of the moisture but I assume that must evaporate back into the room over time. Remember this extractor and most others can be ducted outside too, if you can fit your ducting into floor voids!
EU regulations require every hob to have a standardised test and the results have to be published by manufacturers. This helps you compare performance between models. You can normally find a link to the report on the manufacturers product page. For the hob you're looking for, at the time of writing, you can find it here: media3.neff-international.com/Documents/eudatasheet/en-GB/T48TD7BN2.pdf
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful
Thanks. This reminds me that in the UK growing up, we spelt 'downdraft' as 'downdraught' but Neff UK use the American form 'Downdraft' in their marketing too.
Thanks for your lengthy reply, everything you said was indeed sound advice . I've settled on the rather beautiful airforce g5 which is super slick ! TBH it's so pretty I don't care how it works (says a lot ) . Thanks again and best wishes
It was the best way :-) Windows laptop to VNC onto the Raspberry Pi to display in almost real time (I think the lag was a second or two). One day I'll get to making the video where I use arduino's and Raspberry Pi's to display shower flow rates and control our showroom display TV by IR signals.
Hi, that pan was boiled from cold (you can see I sped up the video until it boiled and lots of visible steam was generated) but that's a good question as to whether a vigorously boiling/roiling boil pan generates steam that can rise faster/more forcefully than the extractor can pull in. My experience is that is not a problem but that may be partly due to once a pan is boiling you naturally turn down the heat, keeping the boil but knowing that any extra energy added to the pan just turns water to steam faster. I reasonable certain that not all humidity/air will be captured by these but likewise I'm certain overhead extractors don't capture 100% of humidity/air either. Air movement is complex in a room and you should leave an extractor running (on low, it's quieter) for a while after you finish cooking to help remove all the odours. Most of the extractor models we're selling today have an automatic run on for this reason. You turn them off but they got to a low quiet setting for 5 or 10 minutes.
Does this extractor sound noisy to you? If you think it does and you're comparing extractor models please don't use a youtube video to compare noise :-) You should know for this video; * I didn't reduce or alter the sound level in editing and * The microphone I was using is the one attached to the camera, I've not even got a tie mic and you can even hear the creak of the aluminium stool I stand on at 1:54 Because I *could* have played with sound levels in editing it's not a good idea to trust noise level comparisons on a youtube video. If noise level is a consideration check the manufacturers specification sheet. There's a standardised EU data sheet for every extractor so you can compare like with like, for this model it can be viewed here: media.miele.com/downloads/92/f1/04_F61547C6F7151EE89EB26124135E92F1.pdf Thanks for watching! Steve
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful
Does this extractor sound noisy to you?
ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html is the video that compares extractor noise but the short version is:
please don't use a youtube video to compare noise :-)
You should know for this video;
* I didn't reduce or alter the sound level in editing and
* The microphone I was using is the one attached to the camera, I've not even got a tie mic and you can even hear the creak of the aluminium stool I stand on at 1:54
Because I could have played with sound levels in editing it's not a good idea to trust noise level comparisons on a youtube video. If noise level is a consideration check the manufacturers specification sheet. There's a standardised EU data sheet for every extractor so you can compare like with like, for this model it can be viewed here: media.miele.com/downloads/92/f1/04_F61547C6F7151EE89EB26124135E92F1.pdf
Thanks for watching!
Steve
How abt the noise of the extractor? Can that be minimised ?
@@prashanthireddig This video ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html tests the noise level of extractors, but to minimise noise the general rules are:
a) Use the maximum size ducting (eg: 6 inch diameter or the square equivalent)
b) Keep ducting runs as short as possible
c) Avoid turning where possible.
In reality, you're often limited by what you can do in the room/cabinets/design.
Good video, but it really needs an accompanying exhaust test for recirculating extractors. e.g. if it's not possible to extract externally and the exhaust just comes back into the kitchen, is the humidity/fat/smoke just coming back?
@@Pionirish Great question. Recirculation doesn't change humidity in the room (or more correctly, doesn't remove the increase in humidity from boiling water) so if you're building a new home in the UK you need to have another form of ventilation to meet building regulations. The rate of this is much lower than an extractor and sometimes includes whole house ventilation and heat recovery. For fats & smoke, they should be caught on the grease filter which can then be put in the dishwasher (and being so accessible is more likely to be cleaned as its so easy to remove compared to overhead extractors).
Of course, you can still duct these outside and we often do.
i just fitted a kitchen with the same extractor and honestly its too loud , although it has two speed options ,the low speed is useless and full speed is absolutely annoying ,costumer did not expect it either
Excellent video. No silly subjective impressions but proper scientific methodology. Many thanks for helping me decide!
Does this extractor sound noisy to you? If you think it does and you're comparing extractor models please don't use a youtube video to compare noise :-)
You should know for this video;
* I didn't reduce or alter the sound level in editing and
* The microphone I was using is the one attached to the camera, I've not even got a tie mic and you can even hear the creak of the aluminium stool I stand on at 1:54
Because I could have played with sound levels in editing it's not a good idea to trust noise level comparisons on a youtube video. If noise level is a consideration check the manufacturers specification sheet. There's a standardised EU data sheet for every extractor so you can compare like with like, for this model it can be viewed here: media.miele.com/downloads/92/f1/04_F61547C6F7151EE89EB26124135E92F1.pdf
Thanks for watching!
Steve
considering your experience do you think this system is quite enough or it's too loud compared to other competitors. Are you able to find other system like this that are more silent?
thanks for the test was very helpful!
@@esserre94 Short answer: I would have this model in my house if I had an island & the budget. We've customers happy with the Neff model too.
Long answer: I think it's comparable in noise to others I've seen and heard (Neff & Bora). It may be quieter to use a ceiling mounted flat-to-the-ceiling type (eg: www.neff-home.com/uk/productlist/extractor-hoods/ceiling-installation/integrated-ceiling-hoods/I97CPS8W5B or www.miele.co.uk/e/cooker-hoods-built-in-da-2808-ext-brilliant-white-10751530-p ,especially the external motor versions). Ceiling models can be harder to fit and service (filters need cleaning, how will you reach them?). Installation also affects sound level (recirculation vs extracted to an outside wall, size of ducting used & number of bends means bigger ducting and less turns allow air to move more quietly).
I compare it to the sound of level of your voice. Way too loud.
@@TheBoobanMaybe I'm just quietly spoken 😉. Seriously though, I like your logic but I don't think it's useful to compare any extractor sound level in a youtube video. I'd suggest everyone looks to the standardised tests (linked above) for extractors they're considering and compare a) Sound Level with b) Rate of extraction. Standing next to any extractor at full power will make it harder to have a conversation in the room. In hindsight, maybe I should have edited the audio to reduce the extractor volume and increase my voice.
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful
It's an interesting concept, but I'm skeptical of its ability to capture aerosol grease particles that - if not ventilated - end up everywhere in the kitchen. And if it is powerful enough to suck those in as well, what about crumbs? A spilled bit of seasoning? Escaped pasta? Utensils? Peas right off the plate? How often do you need to clean it out if it's sucking up everything in sight?
When you wash your dishes in the dishwasher you pull the filter and wash it together with the dishes
No problem at all
Actually way better
I don't live locally, but would certainly buy from you if I did - this is exactly what I wanted to know about these hobs - including how noisy they are. I am giong to get one and am so sorry that I can't get it from you. Very best wishes.
Thanks Kate, that's lovely feedback 😊
I love the fact that you programmed a Raspbery PI to test the cooking extractor! Great!
I know, they're great aren't they! There are so many projects I want to do with raspberry Pi's and similar, if I only I had more free time to play and make more videos
Amazing effort with the Pi but that thing sounds like a Harrier hovering in your kitchen!
hehe, the Harrier was an awesome jet - I wish I could afford one and a big enough showroom to put it in :-)
For this video, I didn't reduce or alter the sound level when editing and the microphone on my camera picks up things like the creek when I stood on the aluminum stool to blow on the humidistat. That means this video (I'd go as far as to say any video) is not a good way of comparing noise levels of extractors. There is an EU standard requiring manufacturers to test and publish noise levels and other details though and that is as directly comparable between models as you could possible get.
You can find them on manufacturers web sites (for this model, media.miele.com/downloads/92/f1/04_F61547C6F7151EE89EB26124135E92F1.pdf
)
Thanks for the comment
Hi Fat Tony, I love your harrier comment so much, I featured it in a video where I tested the noise level on this hob :-) ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html I hope you enjoy it!
I'm giving this vid a like because of that comment 🤣💓
Amazing you wrote a program and used raspberry Pi, on top of excellent presentation skills.. impressive skill set.
Thank you for taking the time to say, I'm smiling from ear to ear reading that
Great video. Really loved that you have the condensation reading.
Great work! Appreciated all of it, from the preparation to the preservation. Excellent work 👏
great video.straight to the point
impressive demo. thanks for the scientific take
Excellent video, thanks for sharing. I wonder if you'd be able to do a similar video for the 'downdraft' extractors which I've seen pop up behind hobs etc. I'm hoping to find something compatible with an electric range cooker.
Thank you so much for this video. I was so on the fence of an extractor in the hob as I really did not think it was effective! This is soooo helpful
You are welcome!
Hey any regrets buying it?
This has to use way more power than one at the top... No way this is energy efficient
Very informative. Great video and presentation. That's my mind made up. Cheers
Great video. These are great for Islands below an RSJ .
Definitely!
It's like a bowing 747 taking off.... what about cooking hot chips, how does it go?
hahahahha this comment is super underrated
I like the comment very much lol
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful (and sorry to say, as an aviation nut myself your comment was narrowly missed out featuring in that video, beaten by the comparison to a Harrier jet 😄)
How does it work with oil instead of steam?
Brilliant presentation
Thanks, I always smile when I get comments like this, I hope it was also useful :-)
Could you let me know if in case this goes under a wall cabinet (not on the kitchen island), would the 50cm distance from the hob be enough or would the heat damage the bottom of the cabinet?
One of the kitchen suppliers was advising againts hob with integrated extractor, claiming the heat would damage the inside of the cabinet, too much heat would draw to your legs, and ultimately it would ruin your floor as well.
We can only go with recirculate airflow in the new apartment..we can either choose a built-in extractor in the wall cabinet ( still unclear to me how would it circulate the air unless the top of the cabinet is open) or this type of hob.
Would be also great to hear if this goes next to a wall, how much cleaning you need to do on the kitchen's backsplash (eg.: same as with a normal hob with extractor above or more)!
Thank you for your answer!
> would the 50cm distance from the hob be enough
You'd have to check the specifications of the hob and the furniture supplier, but generally I think 50cm is always too close - you'll have to duck to look at the pans cooking. Personally I aim for at least 76cm.
I'd also be choosing a regular extractor at this point though, integrated or telescopic.
> would the heat damage the bottom of the cabinet
Over an electric hob, I'd be more worried about steam damage.
>One of the kitchen suppliers was advising againts hob with integrated extractor, claiming the heat would damage the inside of the cabinet
Not something I've experienced or seen before. The warm air travels through ducting (as it would in top cupboards) so I don't see it would ever be an issue. The hot steam is also mixing with air from the room as it's drawn into the extractor so I can't see it would ever be hot enough to cause cabinet damage.
> too much heat would draw to your legs,
That depends on where you put the outlet vent ;-)
When recirculating you definitely notice the blow of air more than a recirculating hood that's blowing out across the ceiling.
> and ultimately it would ruin your floor as well
Before leaves the plinth it's gone through metal filters (for moisture and grease) and carbon filers (for smell). Moving air will leave trails over time (now you're going to start looking at vents and grills everywhere you go - if air is pumped through them you'll eventually see slightly darker lines of dust being left) but as this is on the floor it will be cleaned more often than a ceiling so I don't think marks would be left and I don't think it would ruin the kitchen floor.
>We can only go with recirculate airflow in the new apartment..we can either choose a built-in extractor in the wall cabinet ( still unclear to me how would it circulate the air unless the top of the cabinet is open) or this type of hob.
**I'd be choosing the built in extractor, and vents to the open cabinet top (or a grill in a ceiling infil).***
Unless there's a reason not to... there's always an exception after all! For example here's a good reason a wall mounted hood wouldn't fit: www.houzz.com/photos/painted-porcelain-and-blue-shaker-style-cabinetry-rustic-kitchen-kent-phvw-vp~108802023
>Would be also great to hear if this goes next to a wall, how much cleaning you need to do on the kitchen's backsplash (eg.: same as with a normal hob with extractor above or more)!
Same as normal I believe (not tested for that). Perhaps a tiny amount less as the air is all being drawn down but I don't think that would be a noticeable difference. So far every hob like this we've installed has been in an island/peninsular with no wall behind it so I don't have any past customers I could call and ask
I hope that's useful and sorry for the wall of text!
Steve
Great vide, It would be great if you also do the odour capture test when recycling through the carbon filters
I would love to test odour capture! I've not found a way of measuring smell though. Carbon filters have been used for years and in industry so I assume they work... but I really would like prove it to myself so if you have any ideas please let me know!
@@RootsKent If you use a VOC sensor (volatile organic compound) it does the job. a metal oxide sensor can do it in a simple way
On a high setting, it would suck all the heating out of the house.
Noise is a big turn off too.
Great demo thanks
Thanks for taking the time to comment. For heat being sucked out, yes! You're absolutely right. To avoid that you can use the recirculation option (through carbon filters for odour).The heat (and humidity from cooking) being extracted applies to all externally ducted extractors and well as this type of venting hob. Low energy homes often don't have ducted extraction over hobs for this reason, or pass the extracted air through heat exchangers.
For noise, see this video: ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html ;-)
Question, where the collected water goes?
What happens with the moisture in the air which goes through the filter? Does it get re-destributed/re-circulated in the kitchen room?
Yes, that's right.
In the UK for new rooms (new build/extension) you have to also have mechanical extraction to meet building regulations and prevent high humidity levels, and thus prevent other issues high humidity brings. If you can duct your hob extractor to outside the hob itself meets the building regulation requirement so you don't need a second extractor.
Great video - nice use of the Pi!
Hi Steve , great video, ducting to outside always preferred method for me, but what clearances does the ducting need under the floor, for example my floor is concrete so does that mean the ducting version is impossible for me?
Unlikely to be possible, but not impossible. The bigger the duct, the quieter+more effective the extraction, so 6 inch is expected (150mm diameter round or the equivalent area as a square, and I'll skip a description here as to why round is better than square due surface area contact). If you can put a large channel in your floor to carry ducting then you can do it, which we did in this room:
ruclips.net/video/EXzvBNbloK8/видео.html
This room/video has/shows a Bora X Pure. It was easy to plan this at the design stage before the extension was built and we co-ordinated with the builder for this to work (which means I went out and marked on the sub floor where the ducting had to come up during the build, the builder fitted the ducting then built up the floor insulation and screed around it, tiled and we fitted the island on top). If you have to have recirculating I think that's an acceptable compromise for an island hob with no hood in the way of your eyeline (but remember if it's a new build you'll still need a smaller extractor/ventilation for building regs, and I'd look into humidstat fans for that).
great video, however im not convinced by this concept. I imagine it need to be on max speed to trap the smoke making a lot of noise and if you lift the pan to mix the food it will loose suction.
But your videos did help with my skepticism. Thank you.
If I've a hob against a wall I still design with a wall mounted extractor. For noise, it's depends more upon the motor design and ducting. My video ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html talks about noise on extractors with the short answer being: Check the EU standard noise test results for the extractor you're looking at, to compare between models (and since this video I've bought better microphones!).
Nice video! Just the info I was looking for. Thanks!
Many thanks, I am just starting to build my final house and was looking for info on duct sizes, perfect info.
Hi Robert, and anyone else also looking for duct size information.
Simple rule: The bigger the duct the better. Aim for 6"/150mm nominal ducting (or it's rectangular equivalent). Aim for short runs with as few bends as possible (check out brand: Compair Flow for ducting that has air guide vanes built into bends, improving flow rate and reducing noise of flowing air).
Complicated rule: If you are going for a carbon neural design you'll be looking to duct through/exchange stale air through a heat exchanger. Sometimes you'll use a recirculating air setup with carbon filters on the hob.
Inevitably the building design impacts what you can actually achieve with ducting routes.
Kind regards and thanks for commenting,
Steve
Feb - Aug 2022:
Hi reader. If you're feeling generous, please consider donating a few pounds to my personal challenge to climb a mountain. All donations go directly to 3 chosen charities.
More about why I'm doing this here: www.roots.uk/expedition-w3w and you can jump straight to the donation page here sponsorme.charitiestrust.org/event/cbdf1e64-4af4-4905-865d-49ebaedb105b
How do you vent these outside? Is it done under the floor if hob is on an island?
That's right, which is not always easy to do so most of the ones we fit use the recirculating filter option. The hob in this video ruclips.net/video/EXzvBNbloK8/видео.html is ducted outside under the floor because we were involved in the design phase of the extension.
How would that extractor cope with a large accidental spillage? Say, if you knocked over a litre of boiling milk, or an unsupervised pot boiled over and inundated it with hot sticky liquid or oil?
I made another video for this - ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html with a whole pan of bolognaise sauce spilled into the vent.
Hi Steve, I'm currently in my final year of Architectural Technology and I am doing my dissertation on smart buildings. This includes programming a Raspberry Pi to collect data about the humidity of a building. I was wondering if I could ask you a few questions regarding this? thank you, I look forward to hearing back from you! Mollie
Sure, email showroom@rkbb.co.uk
Hi, great video. Do you have knowledge on ducting to external versus recirculating within the island units? We are struggling to get a duct connection but are worried if the recirculating option will actually work or cause problems? Any advice welcome, thanks
thanks 😊Answer Short version: Recirculating works, just remember to replace the carbon filters from time to time to remove cooking odours
Long version: I would love to find a way to test carbon filters effectiveness at removing odour but I've not found an official test to copy or a rating scale. However, carbon/odour filters have been used for many years in kitchen and also in industry, so I'm confident they work. One advantage to recirculating is that you're not taking your warm home air outside and having to reheat new air coming into the home. One disadvantage is that you still need some form of external extraction (for building regs, essentially to stop humidity building up in the home). A small extractor fan can do this, I like the humidistat controlled versions that boost when humidity is high then drop to a low flow rate at other times. The total volume of extraction of these is much lower than a kitchen extractor but they are allowed/work because they run continuously rather than rely on being turned on when someone is cooking.
I hope that helps
Steve
Bloody good video!! May millions & millions meet your purse!
awesome! would be useful to test various hood setups this way.....
Could you imagine how little work I'd get done if I got to test and experiment with different products.... it would be fun though :-)
thanks for the excellent demo. We intend buying an ikea kitchen and they offer the FÖRDELAKTIG as an induction with a downward draft. Do you know of other brands that would fit their kitchens that you sell?
You need the cabinet dimensions, the appliance dimensions and then to compare the two. Checking that Ikea hob, the surface is 83cm wide, 52cm front to back, it needs worktop greater than 55.5cm, and the motor makes it 24.5cm thick - all of which is fairly normal for venting hob dimensions so my instinct is that all manufacturers hobs would fit into Ikea cabinets.
The ducting route & dimensions is something to be aware of. It looks like their hob has the ducting running down inside the cabinet which may or may not clash with drawers (that applies to the Ikea hob in that cabinet too, or to another hob brand in the ikea cabinet, or the ikea hob in another furniture brand cabinet). It can be useful to allow for deeper than 60cm worktops if you have space as that can make fitting ducting (and other pipework) easier but likely adds to the cost of the furniture/worktops.
Also, we only sell in East Kent, south east corner of the UK and the brands we've chosen are Neff, Bora, Miele but there's no reason to exclude other brands in your search - we're a small business and don't try to sell everything to everyone 🙂Good luck with your search, you might also find this video useful ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html
Steve
where does the steam go? Should we have a chimney below the kitchen island?
If you connect the ducting to outside, it goes outside. If you recirculate some of the humidity is caught temporarily on the filters the rest returns to the room (and all of it returns to the room eventually). This is the same as over hob extractors. I have an experiment in mind to play with steam and humidity to demonstrate this but it will be a while before have time to play :-)
Ah great video, well prepared and delivered - I'm sold.
Now that I'm looking to buy my first home, I only discovered hob built extractors - much better in my opinion. The only con is you lose the overhead lighting but a well lit kitchen will suffice.
I was very impressed to see the Raspberry Pi set up! It's actually a very accurate testing mechanism to be honest, well done.
Thanks, and +1 for not mentioning the noise level (covered in ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html when I bought a better microphone) 🙂
For the light, you're right, we'd normally position recessed ceiling lights over the hob and surface. The other con is often the price (often more expensive than a separate hob and extractor) Generally we use these in islands where we don't want to have to duck to look past a hanging ceiling extractor and don't want a flush ceiling extractor (as they can be hard for customers to clean and maintain). If the room has the hob against a wall we almost always use a separate hob + regular wall mounted extractor.
@@RootsKent I think that last point is worth emphasising. Most kitchens have a hob against the wall (only big kitchens can afford the luxury of an island), so you'd actually advocate the traditional wall mounted extractor for most kitchens. Why is that? Is the benefit of this only aesthetically for islands?
@@donovanvaz3289 Yes, when not in an island/peninsular we almost always recommend a wall mount over hob against walls because;
a) Cost is often less (obviously depending on models chosen)
b) Easier future replacements (a Roots we plan for long working life kitchens so have to consider how easy things are to replace over the next 20 years)
c) A wall mount extractor is not an aesthetic compromise (many options to worth either concealed into furniture or as a feature in their own right)
An exception is when we don't have the room height to fit an extractor or duct routing would cause a different problem.
Should mention the heat recycling from using carbon filter vs. Outside vent.
In case of liquid spill , like from a big pot of milk boiling or else , is there a risk having liquid going into the system ?
I spilt a whole pan of Bolognese sauce to test that ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html
Good video, but is it really that loud or is just where the mic is?
Thanks. You'll be pleased to know I bought better microphones after this and did a video demonstrating just the sound level: ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html :-)
excellent video!
Yes on high speed, what about slow speed which most people use for cooking if it's a decent extractor, remember hot air rises and always far better to extract outside if possible.
I agree. Re run it at each of the available settings. My suspicion is that it won't work.
Hi. Are there any vented hobs that have the motor sited on an external wall? Or can any hob’s extractor be changed to a separately purchased outside motor?
Sorry for the slow reply, I've been busy with the real job :-)
I haven't seen any. Miele have some external motors (or used to, I haven't looked for one for several years). Bora have a booster option that can along the ducting run if I recall, again I haven't needed that.
The main question now though is why you need it? The built in hob motor is normally more than powerful enough to extract sufficient air (and the Bora option I recall is for very long duct runs). It used to be something we considered for noise reduction but a great deal of the noise you hear now is the moving air, which makes that noise wherever the motor is placed. Motors have got significantly quieter over time.
There's another video i made comparing noise of extractor but the short version is; don't compare by listening on youtube, go to the EU standard specification which has standardised noise level test results. If you find the one for your current extractor (I think they go back 20 years or more) then I expect you'll see extractors can be quieter than your current model.
I hope that helps,
Steve
Where does the humidity go from the extractor?
In recirculating mode, the air and humidity returns into the room. *
In the UK for building regs you'll need a separate extractor, normally a small 100mm diameter model for background ventilation UNLESS you have an old style boiler, fire or aga that does not have a balanced flue and thus burns air from the room to work (extracting air would mean the carbon monoxide from the boiler, fire or aga would be drawn back into your room instead of existing via the flue).
* I think the filters must trap some moisture but that will eventually evaporate back into the room. Also remember a lot of humidity in a home comes from our breathing which is why building regs require ventilation. The regs accept a kitchen extractor ducted to outside as meeting the ventilation requirement and the assumption is people use the extractor when cooking.
Of course, you can connect these extractors to ducting to take the air and humidity outside of the room but the challenge is finding a route for the ducting.
About to refurb our kitchen and I had not thought of using a hob extractor such as this. Ours is against an external wall so could vent outside. However our oven and grill stand alongside the hob, and they are responsible for most smoke in the kitchen. Any suggestions as to extraction for that, near in mind we haveiw ceilings. Great video by the way
Against a wall, we normally use conventional wall mounted extractors.
Smoke from oven/grill isn't something I've seen often or investigated to solve, but you can run the extractors all the time you're cooking. Typically an extractor can extract all the air in the room 10 times per hour (obviously depending on how it's specified, and not for fully open plan homes). The smoke may not all be removed immediately but it will help limit how much of it lingers or travels through the rest of the home.
Heat rises. So the steam and fat/oil vapour naturally rises. I believe an overhead extractor will be more efficient and quieter as it can be run at a lower speed. In an open plan kitchen, you can still have an overhead extractor. So I am afraid I am not converted. Please tell me what I missed.
"Please tell me what I missed" => nothing :-)
I agree an overhead extractor will often be better (like www.miele.co.uk/e/ceiling-extractor-da-2808-brilliant-white-10851410-p - as close as quickly comes to mind for the equivalent overhead version of the extractor in this video), but;
* They still have the same question of ducting or recirculation and whether that can be fitted (EG: in this kitchen ruclips.net/video/EXzvBNbloK8/видео.html overhead is not possible, although you never see the skylights in the video, sorry!)
* We also need to consider access for servicing, for example changing and cleaning filters. If I can avoid needing customers to climb ladders or stand on worktops (or hobs 😬) then I'd generally want to.
There's a balance to be found and it's different for every customer and every room, so you've not missed anything and no one needs to be converted
I’m redoing a kitchen in a flat, and can’t really vent, what recirculating induction hob would you recommend?
Hi, there are several things that impact the choice. Primarily - what your suppliers have access to/installers are used to is a good place to start.
Then - budget. If you're staying for a long time you'll appreciate the quality of quieter models (see one of the other videos on noise from extractors built into hobs).
Then - dimensions. Some recirculating models may use more width or worktop depth or height inside cabinet.
Then - if you're against a wall, overhead extractors are still good options (especially if you're on a budget).
Then - somewhere in there, the spec. Features like Flex Induction vs regular round zones and how much of a difference that makes to your use and budget.
Sorry that's not a single option of "buy this one!"
Flat implies limited space and storage, I quite like the Bora S Pure 60cm if the zone sizes work for you (they do for 90% of people I'd assume). If you need 4 x full size zones a regular 4 zone induction hob and extractor mounted over (I have this, 5 years ago venting hobs hadn't advanced enough to be right for my home. Today... vented would be tempting.)
Hope that helps!
Steve
Steve, nice video. Help please - where is the best place to put the exhaust from the unit? Want to minimise turbulence and draughts around the kitchen island.
To minimise draughts, Ideally ducting to outside. When recirculating, ideally not pointing towards your feet where you're standing when cooking but that's not always possible (and extra turns in ducting increase noise so you may trade one minor irritant for another).
Have you tried to Novy Panorama Pro? It looks like it has lower noise level and insted of catching the steam 180 degrees it's only 90 degrees. I'm considering buying one, but I really don't want to boost the fan just to catch some steam...if the Novy does the job better at a lower level, and afaik it does looking at the technical sheets.
I've heard of them but never seen one to play with. You can probably tell I will lean heavily on the technical sheets too, so couple that with a hands on look if you can (to consider cleaning, filter changing, etc),installation (how easy or not it is to fit in your cabinets), + cost of course, and if on balance it looks the best for your room that's perfect.
I'm not sure the 90 degree / 180 degree would make too much of a difference to performance as the 180 degree is like 2 x 90 degree back to back with cooking either side. It might allow for larger filters so less noise generated from air moving through them? (For noise video see ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html )
From the view of using the hob, I think there's something to be said for a wide single row of cooking zones rather than 2x2 layout (if you have the width, it's perhaps nicer than leaning over one pan to stir the pan at the back, plus it might be useful for limiting depth required for hob & worksurface).
should try with a decibel meter and compare it to a regular fan. sounds like itd drown out all convoersation and music etc
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful
We have just moved into a new property equipped with Neff extractor Hob, what we have is wet lichen floors since the moisture has to go somewhere! Currently having a big argument with the builder! Any suggestions?
Interesting! I've been investigating moisture and recirculating for a while but I'm some way off doing some proper tests. A few things to check/try:
(I'm assuming lichen is autocorrect for kitchen... )
If it's a new property ducted to outside extraction is normally required but it doesn't have to be via the hob/extractor (see www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/kitchens-and-bathrooms/building-regulations-need-for-additional-ventilation) So if your hob has been installed as recirculating is there another extractor somewhere? It can be quite small, especially continuous running/trickle vents (humidistat controlled types boost when high moisture is detected). I'd have thought the room extraction would handle moisture from cooking (and it's not a problem I've come across, but as we're moving to more island hobs and recirculation it's what I'm curious to experiment with).
If it's wet on the floor... then I'm assuming the exit vent is on the plinth and you have a tiled or cold floor and the moist air is condensing as it passes across the floor. But then I'm thinking that air should be slightly warmer and as it leaves the plinth diffuses and rises quickly. I'd assume it's not the whole floor and just the area by the vent? If it's the whole floor then I'd start to think it's something other than moist air recirculated from the hob. I'd be looking to rule out other sources now, eg: damp coming through the floor (screed still drying so the room humid enough for moisture to condense overnight as it cools, or a small slow leak hidden under cabinets or behind something that's just enough to cause high humidity without being high enough to show as water). I wonder if opening a window during and for a while after cooking reduces or removes the problem and I wonder if different cooking changes the impact (eg: does it happen if you're not using the hob to boil water for a week and eating oven meals. If it happens with the hob can you make it happen in the morning by cooking the same meal or just boiling water for 10 minutes).
Sorry I haven't got an answer but when you solve it please come back and comment so other people can learn from your efforts too.
Thanks and good luck, Steve
@@RootsKent - Hi Steve, thank you for your comprehensive reply. The Neff Induction Hob is installed in a large island unit, the installation by the builder was what he called a "short" ventilation duct which discharged into the plinth area underneath the island. This resulted the warm moist air being discharged from the gaps all around the bottom of the plinth kick board, causing moisture to condense all around the island unit on the concrete floor which is covered with Kardean flooring. At my request the duty from the hob extraction fan has been extended to the grille in the kick board, so that it exits at that point only. The first time we have used it, we noticed that the floor was becoming damp! My property is a new bungalow, and has an internal utility room adjacent to the kitchen, and there is an internal ventilation fan in this room, we have achieved some success keeping the door open and utilising this fan. We have not tried opening the kitchen window, since it defeats the object of keeping the room heated!
I feel that this is a classic issue of something that looks good in the showroom, but in reality, present some issues such as condensation onto hard impermeable floor surfaces. We use a steamer to cook our vegetables, and have been trying differing levels of power input from the induction hob to limit the amount of steam being generated. I will keep you updated on progress with this issue.
Regards George
@@georgedaville4662 I use an electric steamer plugged in at the back door on a table
Very good video, straight to the point. I am considering moving into a house and they have a hob like this one. I was wondering if it was only some stupid design and how to clean it should the pan overflow ( like when making jam!).
It seems actually fine and easy to clean. Thanks for this video.
** Important note on Jam on induction below!**
Thanks for commenting, hopefully you found the video where I spilled a whole jar of bolognaise sauce into the hob ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html
For Jam - the temperature of the sugars if spilled on the glass can damage the glass (something to do with the very high temperature of the sugars and a chemical reaction that happens, I forget the detail). For an induction hob you can put a heatproof layer between the pan and glass. Years ago I was told a tea towel will work, but I expect baking paper would too. That way any spills are caught by the towel/paper and don't land on the glass.
If it does, the glass will be pitted, but no fail, so just become harder to clean and be generally annoying.
Regular jam making is still a good reason to consider a gas hob (one of the few good reasons now!)
Be curious to see a pot on the far end instead of the inner part of the cooktop. Furthermore with a pot in each to see if the outside pot still gets sucked in.
There are only 4 zones on this hob (and most I've seen like it) so they're all equally distant from the extractor in the centre. This was a small pan but centred on the zone, so for larger pans I've seen them work just the same (See ruclips.net/video/9EzfRvEG0ys/видео.html although I had the extractor on the minimum setting to limit the noise pickup on the microphone).
Hi Steve. I appreciate your thoroughness. Have you measured the efficiency of side mounted downward extractor on induction hobs that are not square but the wider ones, with 6 cooking zones?
I'm worried that the furthest two pots from the extractor would not be efficiently served, and from esthetic point of view the induction hobs with extractor in the middle are not acceptable for me.
Sorry Lukasz, I've not got one on display to test.
In case it helps; We've sold that type in the past though and no-one has told me they've had a problem
If you were our customer, with the aesthetic being so important, I'd be suggesting you go for your preference as I suspect most of the time you wont be using every pot zone so even if performance at the front zones isn't perfect, the compromise is worthwhile for the aesthetic.
I hope that helps
Great video. A question though.. Do these downdraft extractors work only for induction hobs or do they also work for gas hobs too?
I believe it would be powerful enough to disturb the burning of the gas, which would be very bad
is the condensation collected anywhere or is it extracted along with the air on the other side of the bench? Oh, and if it is collected how much liquid it copes with?
Hi, sorry for the long reply about to follow... ok, I'm not sorry :-)
Short version: Not enough condensation captured to be a problem, so yes most goes through the fans and outside(ducted) or back into room (recirculation). Liquid: For spills, see ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html where I spill Bolognese sauce into his hob.
So this applies to all extractors, some of the moisture in the air will be captured by the metal filters as condensation. I can't tell you how much.... but now you've asked that could be a fun experiment. Leave that with me...., Some of the moisture will travel all the way through.
Not enough moisture is captured to be a problem and I've always assumed it evaporates back into the air over time. These type of extractors have catch trays for other spills (see my other video: ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html where I spill sauce into this hob) and from memory around 200ml seems a common catch tray size and that's after however much moisture is captured by the mesh.
Wall hoods don't have any catch tray, which is why I don't think condensation beyond the grease filter is an issue.
Therefore, I'm assuming that moist of the moisture travels all the way through and out the wall if you have ducting or back into the room if you have recirculating. In the UK, if you have a new build house and a recirculating extractor you need to have another form of air extraction in the room - often a small fan - to manage the humidity and atmosphere of living in a well sealed and energy efficient new build home (think: humidity in air you breath, sweat, odours, stale air that you've breathed out, etc), so that's another reason I think most humidity passes through the extractor (if the filter was catching it, it would all evaporate back into room and we'd still need separate extractors for our building regulations).
I hope that helps,
Steve
(I welcome any reader with more knowledge to chip in here!)
How it performs in terms of heating food when stove is gas instead of induction? I feel to disturbs gas stove flame hance slower cooking
Hi, Almost all of these are induction hobs in the UK (Almost all of our sales are now for electric hobs rather than gas) so it's not a problem we see.
However, if the gas versions are disturbing the flame and reducing the flames efficiency at putting heat into the pan I suspect you'd simply turn the flame up to compensate.
Most hob cooking is not done at full power, or it uses full power for a few minutes to get a pan of water boiling and then gets turned down to simmer. The time for cooking is more dependant upon how quickly the heat enters the food rather than how much heat/how quickly you can put into the pan.
Example: I once ruined a non stick pan by having the hob set too hot whilst cooking sausages.
Hey im putting one of these in a new build.. The extractor will be in the same room as a stove.. The stove will have a vent out through the wall also..building control have told me once fitted they want to do a smoke test to make sure that the extractor isn't taking to much oxygen out of the room.. Do you think i will have any issues with it pulling out to much air.. Thanks
Yes that's a problem - don't do it! ... more detail on why below:
It sounds like your stove is more than just a hob, maybe an gas/oil powered AGA/range also running heating and it burns air from the room.
The burnt gas exits the stove through the vent to outside (otherwise you'd be poisoned by the CO2 released when burning gas).
If you have an extractor in the room that vents to outside, the air it pushes out has to be replaced. The stove vent becomes an easy way for air to flow back into the room, so the gas you wanted to take outside is now back in your room, and that's bad.
It doesn't help to close that vent just when the extractor is running either, because if the stove is also running it's producing CO2 and you really want that to leave the room so you're not poisoned.
If you're now wondering why we can have boilers in kitchens and still extract outside, modern boilers have a "balanced flue". If you look you'll see there's a pipe within a pipe so the boiler combustion chamber is fed with fresh air from outside and the burnt air exits through the same double pipe.
This is also why with modern boilers we don't need air vents to outside. In older homes you'll often find large holes in the wall to allow air to flow in replacing the air a boiler or fireplace has burnt. Holes like this let the cold air in too, which is why modern buildings generally avoid open fires as this makes them less efficient.
What do we do:
In rooms with an appliance that burns gas or oil that has a traditional flue, we NEVER duct outside. We recirculate.
Recirculation is fine though. You'll have to replace carbon filters occasionally but they are effective at removing smells. For humidity and building regs you might need a low volume mechanical extractor or it might be the open vent meets the requirements. I always find myself going back to read the regs in detail to make sure I've got our specific use case correct - try assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/1045918/ADF1.pdf
I hope that helps
Steve
more impressed with the software setup with the PI than the extractor.
Oh yes, I love the raspberry Pi. This pi became a bot that posted a daily photo of the orchard next to us to twitter, www.roots.uk/our-little-twitter-bot-viewfromroots before twitter changed and made that too expensive. I have plans for another video that will use a Pi but I've been too busy to have time to play. One day soon ... 🙂
Steve
Hi, nice vid good job.
You manually turned on the extractor right? How come kitchens don't seem to have humidistat extractor fans like bathrooms?
Ah, they do, I manually overrode the automatic setting for this video.
Most of these style of hobs either a) turn the extractor on automatically and vary setting depending on power setting of hob, or b) use a sensor (probably a humidistat hidden behind a marketing name) to vary the speed automatically.
Brilliant video and great use of a raspberry pi
Brilliant video
On the AEG 6000 flex zone hob , it says it’s a recirculating one, but do you know if you can actually duct it out instead?
Sorry, we don't sell AEG so I dont know. However many hobs like this are now specified as ducted or recirculating when you order them, so they come with some of the right parts for recirculating (filters mostly, and even for recirculating there are times when you'll want to use ducting specific to your room to recirculate the air).
@@RootsKent thank you, I’m finding it so hard to find out any information on this! I’ve ordered the AEG 6000, it says it’s recirculating so it will use carbon filters, however, the guy in wren is saying we should be able to duct it… but can I get any info… not as yet! My builder needs to know so he knows what to do with the floor! Do you think I’ll have any issues with it being recirculated anyway? I’m panicking as I always thought it was going out the wall! 🫣
@@eyeliciousbrowlashskinclin6671 surely Wren should know this, especially if they specified it.... still, on the AEG site they have different models for ducted vs recirculating so I'd normally order the correct one (otherwise there can be issues with warranty even if an unrelated fault develops). www.aeg.co.uk/kitchen/cooking/hobs/extractor-hob/?d2cSellable=true
Checking www.aeg.co.uk/kitchen/cooking/cooker-hoods/induction-hob-with-extractor/tch74b01cb/ it looks like it vents to the void behind the cabinet (not for use on a building's outside wall, potential condensation from warm air cooling quickly) but there's a reasonable chance that's a standard size duct outlet and you can buy ducting to fit... though ducting can be hard to find and not inexpensive. There's also a chance the ducted vs recirculating models may have different settings to suit their use (eg power setting of the fans, whether other parts are fitted or not to hold filters).
If you get it and duct it post back as maybe someone else is having the same question.
Thanks and good luck!
Steve
Hi there I am really torn as to if I should get a hood or an extractor built into the hob. My worry is that hob based extractors are significantly worse than hood ones. For me the extractor is one of the most important applicances is the extractor, since I don't like my entire living room smelling of food. Also function is more important than looks for me in this regard. Do they work as effectively or better than hood based extractors? Laws of thermodynamics say that steam rises and downdraft tries to counteract this. What are your experiences? Also most built in hob extractors seem to operate around the 500m^3/h mark while I have seen hood extractors around the 1000 m^3/h mark.
> I am really torn as to if I should get a hood or an extractor built into the hob
You've come to the right place :-)
> My worry is that hob based extractors are significantly worse than hood ones
It depends on what and why you're choosing. Hob based extractors like this Miele model out perform made-to-the-lowest-cost wall mounted hoods every time. You can compare performance parameters from the EU product data fiche (mentioned at the end of the noise video I did recently - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html ).
>Laws of thermodynamics say no given that steam rises. What are your experiences?
That's why I built a humidistat to test. They are equally good to wall mounted hoods (subject to being comparable power/noise/ducting etc).
>Also function is more important than looks for me in this regard. Do they work as effectively or better than hood based extractors?
Yes, for an equal product spec/rate/etc, they perform equally. My general rule is I use these where I don't have a wall (islands/peninsulas). Ceiling mounted extractors are also a good option but I can struggle with ensuring it's easy for the customer to maintain them (wash and replace filters). Extractors that hang from the ceiling have easy to reach filters but are often in the line of sight to be annoying when using the kitchen and talking to people.
If you are against a wall, I'd stick with a wall mounted hood.
If you are in an island, the built in hob extractor is often the best option today
If you're reading this very long reply and found it useful, please click like on the video and subscribe. That helps other people like us find answers like this and helps me be seen by people local to our small business that need rooms done well. Thanks! Steve.
@@RootsKent Thanks for the reply! In terms of performance do you know if Siemens / Miele / Bora perform similarly or if one is better than the other in terms of suction?
@@Persason I'd always look to the specification sheets for the models you're looking at. The standardised EU testing means you can fairly compare between them (see link in the pinned comment on this video). Remember actual performance will vary depending on your room, ducting used, etc.
Performance isn't the only worthwhile criteria though, I'd also consider how they look, how they fit into cupboards (eg: if they take away space you need for storage), how easy filters are to access and clean (I did a video spilling bolognaise into one as an example) and any cooking functions and features they have that may have an impact on the one that's best for you.
Can these be fitted in an apartment?
Yes.
If you're replacing an extractor that's ducted you'll most likely need to continue to extract outside though (building regulations/moisture level control in the property)
If you can't connect this style of extractor to outside (as you probably can't run ducting through the floor and if you've using it in an island) then you can fit this style of hob as recirculating (with carbon filters for smell) and a secondary small extractor elsewhere (possibly using the same exterior vent hole, we've used humidistat controlled versions for this in the past).
what model is this hob? And if old, what do you recommend now?
Our recommendation changes depending on our customers needs. We like Miele, Neff & Bora models but remember we're a small business and don't get to see and play with every manufacturers products. The choice is often a factor of price, installation (how and where ducting connects, space taken inside of cabinet) and aesthetic (see the 'black and brass' video ruclips.net/video/EXzvBNbloK8/видео.html - this Bora model is all black whereas the Miele in this video has stainless steel).
Very useful thanks!
Hi, I'm looking at ordering one of these hobs but the kitchen company is telling me that they are not suitable to install with cupboards above due to the amount of condensation? I read in the Elica manual that they are fine but just need to have a minimum 50cm between the hob and the cupboards. If you have any real world experience of this and don't mind sharing please let me know. Many thanks!
Forgot to say, thank you for the great videos, they are really helpful (this one and the neff oven door cleaning one especially!)
Hi Matthew, from my experience, both are technically correct! However...
Whilst you can have cupboards 50cm above induction hobs, I think that's too low for everyday use
* I would be ducking and peering under the cupboards to see the pans at the back, and I'm only 5'10"/178cm tall!)
* see also: next video about to be released on self cleaning ovens, which I filmed at home and you can see the extractor steps up over my hob for exactly this reason.
For moisture,
* I'd still be very alert to potential damage over time. I think it's hard to assume that users of the hob/extractor would always turn it on fully and leave it running after the hob heating is turned off.
* Higher than 50cm would be less likely to damage giving time for any escaped steam to dissipate a little.
* I'd probably be looking to use some sort of wipeable/damp proof finishing panel in that area
So, in this case I prefer your kitchen company's answer over the Elica answer!
I'd also argue that if you've space for wall units over a venting hob, then you've space for a regular wall mounted extractor (of a myriad design styles, so aesthetics shouldn't be a problem). At which point, I'd probably* be have a non venting induction hob and separate extractor based on
a) ease of future replacements should either fail
b) probably total cost is less.
We use venting hobs mostly in islands/peninsulars. Against a wall (not that I can remember us doing this) I'd be assuming no wall units as an overall aesthetic.
*Reasons that won't work: Low eaves meaning maybe you can't duct outside from a wall mounted extractor, other wall features/protrusions/piers/nibs/beams that make it too complicated fit around.
You're very welcome! and thank you for taking the time to comment.
@@RootsKent Thank you for the great advice! Looks like I'll go for a recirculating extractor above the induction then... unfortunately venting isn't an option for an extractor above the hob due to the presence of a beam. There is the possibility to vent it if I use the elica but it sounds like it wouldn't be the best idea due to the possibility of water damage to the wall units over time? Thank you again!!
I was told to put the extractor on before cooking to have a better 'air flow'. Any comments on this?
Short answer: Yes - that's the best practice.
Long answer: Yes, and this model will automatically turn it's extractor on as soon as your turn on a hot zone :-). The reason is it takes time to start moving the air to make it flow. Starting the extractor soon often allows you to run it at a lower speed (so it's quieter). Once you finish cooking you should often leave the extractor running on low, so you'll still collect humidity and smells from pans on the hob taking advantage of the flow you've built up whilst not having so much noise. Many extractors (95% sure this model does) automatically run for 10 minutes on low setting before switching off for this reason.
If you're extracting to outside, you may also need to consider where the air you're removing is being replaced from. It could be enough from the gaps around doors into the room or you may benefit from opening a window slightly. If you have an 'open flue' appliance (a boiler or fire that gets air to burn from the room it's in) we're not allowed to fit extractors ducted to outside. They'll pull the air out of the room, sucking the burnt air from the chimney back into the room and that creates a strong risk of carbon dioxide poisoning.
This was amazing. Really helpful, thank you!
I noticed there was still some humidity that the sensor was picking up. The baseline with the extractor fan on is still higher than the baseline when the pot wasn’t boiling.
My takeout: the extractor fan is a good product. Much better than I thought it was going to be. But not better than an overhead range hood.
How much moisture or grease misses the overhead due to the distance between them both?
@@markh1ggins hard to say but I would say less than in the table top extractor. The grease and steam is hot so is already rising upwards towards the overhead
I've got a big overhead extractor and that still misses some of the rising smoke / steam too.
Hi, do you have any noise metrics comparing to traditional extractors?
All extractors have standardised EU data sheets so you can compare various performance metrics and these should be available from the manufacturer.
This particular model has a datasheet at media.miele.com/downloads/92/f1/04_F61547C6F7151EE89EB26124135E92F1.pdf
The noise level is given for different rates of extraction and those rates are different for each model, so they are not directly comparable but give a good indicator as to what you can expect. For example this model says 49dB at 170m3/hr and 71dB at 490m3/hr. The noise level also varies depending on whether it is recirculating or ducted and the natural acoustics of the room.
Having said all that, my instinct is that all extractors that draw the air down are going to need to move more air faster than extractors overhead and my *assumption* therefore is they will generally be noisier as a result. The only way to know for certain is to compare the model specification sheets and I've seen some traditional extractors that are very noisy, especially where they're made to the lowest price possible. I hope that helps!
Hi Steve I would be interested to know if you have any comparisons or thoughts on the extractors ability to extract smells?
Huge like. Thanks a lot for the video. 😊 I see it was recorded 3 years ago. Do you still think the same? Thanks again!!!
Thanks for saying hello, and yes I still think these are the best option/design/solution for hobs being placed on islands or peninsulars.
See the follow up video that covers noise ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html which will help you pick between models from different manufacturers.
There are a lot of good questions that have been asked over the last 3 years in these comments so it's worth scrolling down to learn more.
@@RootsKent Thanks very much!
Props for raspberry pi implementation 👌🏼
what about the smell do they work?
Sorry for the slow reply, I've been busy with the real job :-)
Yes, they work.
Although I've yet to find a way of testing the effectiveness of odour removal. Anecdotally carbon filters have been removing smells for years and I've not met anyone in the industry that says they don't work. That does assume the filters are replaced regularly of course. Many clients that say to us they don't work have never replaced the filters. When to change the filters is also hard to say as it will vary depending on the type and amount of cooking you are doing. Most manufacturers recommend between 6 months and 12 months. Some newer types of filter are designed to be 'refreshed'/'regenerated' in an oven and can be effective for years. These cost more and are larger and I've noticed the trend is away from this style as consumers are choosing easier to access and/or less expensive to initially buy filter models.
I hope that helps,
Steve
Does it work well for tall stock pots?
How tall? Next time I'm filming I'll see if I can get hold of one to test. (That will probably be a few months though, we're a small kitchen retailer and very busy right now). My assumption is it will work fine based on how high above the hob I had the humidistat.
How much does it cool down the pan?
I think, barely any noticeable effect... but that sounds like an interesting experiment (for when I'm less busy!). I think heat transfer to air is very slow and although moving air can transfer more heat it's still going to be very slow. So I think hot pan will cool almost as slowly with the extractor on as with the extractor off.
Have you tried any other models ? What is the dba rating of the one you used? Like the Pi work ! Thanks for the video
Hi Raj, thanks for the comment and question
All the extractor manufacturers publish the noise levels in their appliance specifications and there are a number of variables and caveats that are relevant so it's worth looking at the details relative to your own design plans. For example, ducted setups generally have a higher extraction rate and lower noise level than recirculating setups. They are also affected by the type of ducting you use (bigger = better), how many bends there are (less = better) and how long the ducting is (shorter = better). Comparing models is hard because they also have different extraction rates between models and manufacturers so a hood may be quieter because it's doing less work. All of this before we take into account the room acoustics (for example, the difference between a tile floor vs a carpet floor)
For this extractor I used the 'boost' setting (noisiest), our setup is recirculating and the manual says: 510m3/hr, 77dB(A) re 1pW) == 63dB(A) re 20 µPa
The microphone used is the one built into the video camera and although I'm pretty sure I made no adjustments to the sound levels on the recording (up or down) I wouldn't base choosing one extractor over another based on a youtube clip sound recording :-) This is the only working 2 in 1 hob we have on display so I've not tested any other brands but from experience I'd expect similar performance and noise from Neff's 'venting hob' or the Bora models.
Generally, I've found extractors work fine on medium or high settings (rather than 'boost' or 'intensive') if you turn them on as soon as you go to start cooking and allow time for a flow of air to build up. Also to leave them running on low for a while after cooking as that flow will still help capture air and remove the smells. Many extractors now come with an automatic run on timer (including this model).
I hope that helps!
Steve
PS - If you like Raspberry Pi, you might like to see how this Pi got reused after the video: www.rkbb.co.uk/tweets-from-viewfromroots
Hi, do you think these work well? Im thinking of putting indunction with vent instead of a rangehood in new kitchen, but its difficult to get good opinions and feedback.. this design helps alot with my design but im not sure if these inductions with inbuilt vent do a reliable job
That's what I was testing in this video by setting up a humidstat :-)
I would have one on an island or peninsular. Against a normal wall we use a regular hood. - This is also what we recommend to customers too.
For reliable job: with all extractors remember to start them running before you start cooking and leave them running on low for a short while after. It takes time to get a flow of air going. Many models now automatically turn on when you start cooking and run on automatically too.
@@RootsKent thanks, actually i was considering this against wall.. is that innefective?
@@jaytee1205 Against a wall works fine too, but at that point if you can use a regular hood and hob you have more choice at (often) lower price points for the same performance level. Aesthetically though, If you're aiming for the look of a clear wall then the venting hobs achieve that and is perfect.
How is the noise compared vs normal style extractors?
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful (at the end I talk about where to get comparisons between models, which would include regular wall mounted extractors)
Ooo! They've become far more efficient recently! Ours automatically senses the temperatures of the cookware and starts itself, increases it's extraction based on the sensed temperatures and even biases the extraction from one side of the job to the other! Who would ever have thought it! 🤔🧐. 😵💫😵💫😵💫 Bloody expensive though... 😅
Is it waterproof? if you spill a bit of sauce/water will it be ok?
Nanu Siri no you have to buy a new
One
This one (and the Neff one we've sold, and when I last looked in detail at a Bora model) are designed so that spills down the vent hole won't do damage. for this model the pull out vents have a catch tray underneath them and that whole pull out unit can be put in the dishwasher. Below that is a further catch tray that can be removed from within the cabinet.
What happings water falls inside the fan
See this video: ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html The first amount of water (depending on hob, assume half a litre ish) is caught by the filter. Any more will fall to the tray at the bottom (you see me cleaning Bolognese off that tray in video). The fans are mounted below the hob and suck 'upwards', so the water can't reach the fan blades and motor, or at least that would be several litres of water and if you have that much water pouring into your hob you may have bigger problems to worry about.
That was loud as fuuq. How effective is it at low speeds?
For noise, this video ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html talks about the sound levels of these extractors.
Effective at low speeds? That's an interesting question. I can't give numbers or objective values but subjectively I think it starts automatically on low and middle speeds and they've been effective for the short demonstrations we do in the showroom. In this video I did put it on full noisiest power level to see if it could capture all the steam.
Hope that helps
I’m worried that the cooking materials might drop into the extractor...😓
Easily spill over bubbling water.
New video: I spilt a whole pan of bolognese into it to see what happened ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html 😁
@@TheBooban New video: I spilt a whole pan of bolognese into it to see what happened ruclips.net/video/5L9GOv90g9w/видео.html 😁
Really effective extractor, but gee that extractor is noisy. Thanks for the experiment!
It sounds noisy in this video, but ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html is the video that compares extractor noise, I bought new microphones ;-)
So where does this humid air go? If it stays in the room then kitchen will get humid and steamy anyways.
Good question. Recirculating extractors have been an option for a long time (and commonly chosen, sometimes to save the cost of drilling walls, sometimes due to restricted access for ducting, sometimes due to regulations extractor air from a room with gas appliance and flue) and I've not known this humidity alone to be a problem. The metal mesh will collect an amount of the moisture but I assume that must evaporate back into the room over time. Remember this extractor and most others can be ducted outside too, if you can fit your ducting into floor voids!
Hi would you have a test report on the neff t48td7bn2
EU regulations require every hob to have a standardised test and the results have to be published by manufacturers. This helps you compare performance between models. You can normally find a link to the report on the manufacturers product page. For the hob you're looking for, at the time of writing, you can find it here: media3.neff-international.com/Documents/eudatasheet/en-GB/T48TD7BN2.pdf
@@RootsKent thank you for the information
Sold
It would have been mutch betzer if you test the thing with a sensible noise level.
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful
I like the idea, but if it's not on full power, I doubt it works very effectively. Would need my ear defenders for that too!!!
Try ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html for the noise testing video ;-)
We call them downdraft cooktops in USA
Thanks. This reminds me that in the UK growing up, we spelt 'downdraft' as 'downdraught' but Neff UK use the American form 'Downdraft' in their marketing too.
Thanks for your lengthy reply, everything you said was indeed sound advice . I've settled on the rather beautiful airforce g5 which is super slick ! TBH it's so pretty I don't care how it works (says a lot ) . Thanks again and best wishes
The coolest thing about this video, is that they're using debian with python to measure the humidity in the air :)
It was the best way :-)
Windows laptop to VNC onto the Raspberry Pi to display in almost real time (I think the lag was a second or two).
One day I'll get to making the video where I use arduino's and Raspberry Pi's to display shower flow rates and control our showroom display TV by IR signals.
Nice video, shame its not using a vigorously boiling pan. This is just steam from a previously boiled pot.
Hi, that pan was boiled from cold (you can see I sped up the video until it boiled and lots of visible steam was generated) but that's a good question as to whether a vigorously boiling/roiling boil pan generates steam that can rise faster/more forcefully than the extractor can pull in.
My experience is that is not a problem but that may be partly due to once a pan is boiling you naturally turn down the heat, keeping the boil but knowing that any extra energy added to the pan just turns water to steam faster.
I reasonable certain that not all humidity/air will be captured by these but likewise I'm certain overhead extractors don't capture 100% of humidity/air either. Air movement is complex in a room and you should leave an extractor running (on low, it's quieter) for a while after you finish cooking to help remove all the odours. Most of the extractor models we're selling today have an automatic run on for this reason. You turn them off but they got to a low quiet setting for 5 or 10 minutes.
Extractor sounds like a jumbo jet taking off
Does this extractor sound noisy to you? If you think it does and you're comparing extractor models please don't use a youtube video to compare noise :-)
You should know for this video;
* I didn't reduce or alter the sound level in editing and
* The microphone I was using is the one attached to the camera, I've not even got a tie mic and you can even hear the creak of the aluminium stool I stand on at 1:54
Because I *could* have played with sound levels in editing it's not a good idea to trust noise level comparisons on a youtube video. If noise level is a consideration check the manufacturers specification sheet. There's a standardised EU data sheet for every extractor so you can compare like with like, for this model it can be viewed here: media.miele.com/downloads/92/f1/04_F61547C6F7151EE89EB26124135E92F1.pdf
Thanks for watching!
Steve
Hi, thanks for taking the time to comment. With so many comments on the noise level I decided to create a video testing and comparing the noise level of these hobs - ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html, I hope you find it useful
That extractor was painfully loud. Much rather have an isle type of hood with the motor in the attic.
Ah yes, can I recommend this youtube video of the totally silent model of this hob -> ruclips.net/video/SBfysIfETlg/видео.html 🙂
I can`t hear you.
See the pinned comment on extractor noise ;-)
@@RootsKent I am joking mate. Your video is great.
It sounds terribly strong. Better get a nice sound insulated like NRS system