thanks a lot for this video, I'm very grateful of your knowledgeable and informative explanatations in order to confidently troubleshoot any issues with the stern gland!
I've added a link to the Facebook group TIMEA. It's a new group for all to participate. Public and engineers are both welcome to have discussions. Engineers are asked to go through the Vetting process so they can advertise as professionals.
Great informative video....One thing you said made me think.I have a 1980's? BMC 2.5 in my Duver 23. I was told it is a Right Handed Prop!.I do have cavitation problems so I need to check!
Great video, very informative, in my opinion, it informs at many levels, overview of understanding (for all of us), details of how it works, (all of us) details to cover the folks who have a greater understanding of engineering, but not this specific engineering solution for control of water ingress on a shaft. Also please make sure you keep up the warnings to us all, we need to know when we need to call in the experience folks, and the consequences we risk if we don't ask for help. Great presentation the information is so good. This type of video's primary function is to pass on information and experience, and secondly to some entertaining. I hope with your desire to make the video more enjoyable (entertaining) that you don't lose the primary purpose of imparting information. I hope that makes sense, Best Regards Colin. Brilliant and thank you for time and kindness to share this with us all. 👏👏👏👍👏🤝🤝
I am trying to keep it in an informative manner. As I've progressed my only issue is how to compress stuff into something that maintains an audience. I remain open minded.
Hi Darren, great informative video, well done. When cutting the packing cord i have seen that a cut of 45deg is recommended rather than 90 deg which kind of makes sense to me but I guess there's always 2 points of view. I've also read it should drip 1-2 drops per minute when running. I prefer no water in my bilge (being used to offshore boats with dripless seals) My new to me, narrow boat is 5 years old and only just done 200 hours but the gland was leaking grease and water (and there was a general purpose grease tub in the bay). I've just replaced my packing, and all the grease. The old packing seemed ok when removed, heyho at least I know all is in order now.
I completely disagree that the gland should drip, a good shaft and seal will work and stop water. If there is excessive wear you will in most cases still get a reasonable seal. However I have no complaint with 45° cut but for what it might give mehh ok if you want to why not. Makes sense. The grease will help that seal anyway. The old system that uses grease can get messy but it worked well and is ideal for the canal as it offers a solid support for the shaft. I've seen deep water seal systems not support the shaft as it uses a softer cutlass bearing. However ob deep water they are great. Hope that helps
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 thanks, that's good to know the gland should not drip. Will take careful adjustment to seal completely but not be overnight in order to stay cool and avoid wear. I guess dripless are more suitable offshore where the water generally contains less silt and solid obstructions to foul the prop.
Really thorough and interesting explanation. I do hope you will stick with making videos. It may take a bit of time and effort but there's enormous potential for channels like this where interesting and knowledgable people take things apart, repair and fix them - and boats are intrinsically interesting for a lot of people too.
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Technical channels can do really well. He's in a different field, but if you haven't come across him already have a look at Big Clive's output and the 'featured channels' he has on his main page www.youtube.co/user/bigclivedotcom
Brilliant video. Very well explained to such an extent that even a numpty like I can understand. May I also thank you for the brilliant work you have done with TIMEA which is laudable and a superb idea. Rogue ‘engineers’ are the Bain of both customer and professionals and you are doing your profession proud. I now have some understanding of the stern gear on my NB
Very good and informative video. Could how tell me how i get the gear selector control shaft out to replace o ring and spacer. The engine is in situ on the boat and access is ok.
There are many but i have used a modern product many times CT1 This product claims to be able to cure under water, not that you need to when installing this equipment.
Another very informative and enjoyable video, thanks! Interesting about the tapers needing matched, do you lap those in or does each prop need machined every time?!
I think you're eventually going to have a very successful channel. Keep working on being strict with yourself about the structure of these videos. The bit about the plate you are putting in to support the stern tube was interesting but it broke up the flow of what is supposed to be a discussion of "fundamentals". Maybe you could have put that bit in at the end as an interesting bonus. Also, good to signpost what you are going to do right at the beginning. I don't think you said in the intro that you were going to show us how to renew the packing. That said your actual explanations are very clear and informative and impart a lot of your good judgement and experience (not just the textbook stuff).
It may be just a case of tightening the gland. Usually its a balance between stopping water coming in and allowing free movement of the shaft. The gland must not normally restrict the shaft spinning easily. But ultimately older shafts and seals can be a little messy.
All that said, here's a question: I have a NB that I purchased out of the water with stern gear but no engine. There is some wear on the propshaft where it goes through the gland. How do you judge when such wear is excessive? What problems will it cause? I'm assuming I'll need someone experienced to come and look at it for me, so I'm just asking out of interest.
Once I have a stern gland in my hands again I will make a video on how to re-pack it and what would be an acceptable amount of wear, the common issues you'll get, the gland seal will not seal, this causes obvious problems with excessive water ingress and the bilge pump will go off all the time, that effects your leisure power systems. Worse still if not monitored can cause a craft to list and sink in extreme cases. Excessive wear in the bearing part will stress the output on the gearbox and that gets expensive.
HI, as requested. Some guidance on shaft wear. I will get to a cutlass bearing too soon, hope this helps for now. ruclips.net/video/yCGT9bgKrGo/видео.html
Hi I'm looking to re instate the stern tube gear in my 1968 westerly cirrus unfortunately the whole lot was taken out just to a broken engine ! Could you roughly tell me the cost of having this refitted I have engine shafts and prop
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Hi thank you for the fast reply it would be refitting all of the stern tube gear as if you were starting from scratch if that makes sense? I'm able to fit engine regards paul
Sorry for the delay in replying. We had this Covid in the house. It's not fun. As for your question. Are you asking about the labour costs or products costs?
Hi hope things have got better fortunately I've managed to stay clear of it ,I was really enquiring as to how much the Parst would roughly be if can I know how to fit an engine but have done anything with the stern gear so a learning curve for me thank so much paul
The last propeller cost around the £600 cast to order and the propeller shaft was about £300 The stern gland and bearing an additional £300 These are rough estimations and will vary, especially in the UK as raw materials have gone through the roof.
Hi Darren my shaft used to leak so i replaced the stuffing gland but now it dont leak good ....but the stuffing gland now warms up first question is how much grease do i wind in as i think there is no more water coming up the shaft have i put to much in ?my boat is 26ft sea boat 7 knot speed running ford D and borg box thanks simon
Hi. When you say you have replaced the stuffing gland, do you mean the entire cast gland or just the packing material? Either way if the gland is getting hot the packing may be to tight? Your welcome to email pictures if that helps darrencrouch@dhcrouchmarineltd.co.uk
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Hi Darren so i now have the standard 4in flexi tube mine was 2in and was told to short ..So i have just repacked the stuffing box but have not as yet tightened the gland as im waiting for sea water to come in .............i did remove the shaft to have the grub screws drilled deeper in the shaft to stop movement ...and when put back use half pot of grease like the one in the vid ....i,m thinking not allowing water up the shaft ...my question is how much should i put in the shaft about 3 ft in length ....thanks simon ill get you piccy weekend
thanks a lot for this video, I'm very grateful of your knowledgeable and informative explanatations in order to confidently troubleshoot any issues with the stern gland!
I've added a link to the Facebook group TIMEA. It's a new group for all to participate. Public and engineers are both welcome to have discussions. Engineers are asked to go through the Vetting process so they can advertise as professionals.
Great informative video....One thing you said made me think.I have a 1980's? BMC 2.5 in my Duver 23. I was told it is a Right Handed Prop!.I do have cavitation problems so I need to check!
Does make a difference having a smooth prop with a good profile and leading edge
Great video, very informative, in my opinion, it informs at many levels, overview of understanding (for all of us), details of how it works, (all of us) details to cover the folks who have a greater understanding of engineering, but not this specific engineering solution for control of water ingress on a shaft. Also please make sure you keep up the warnings to us all, we need to know when we need to call in the experience folks, and the consequences we risk if we don't ask for help. Great presentation the information is so good. This type of video's primary function is to pass on information and experience, and secondly to some entertaining. I hope with your desire to make the video more enjoyable (entertaining) that you don't lose the primary purpose of imparting information. I hope that makes sense, Best Regards Colin. Brilliant and thank you for time and kindness to share this with us all. 👏👏👏👍👏🤝🤝
I am trying to keep it in an informative manner. As I've progressed my only issue is how to compress stuff into something that maintains an audience.
I remain open minded.
Hi Darren, great informative video, well done.
When cutting the packing cord i have seen that a cut of 45deg is recommended rather than 90 deg which kind of makes sense to me but I guess there's always 2 points of view.
I've also read it should drip 1-2 drops per minute when running. I prefer no water in my bilge (being used to offshore boats with dripless seals)
My new to me, narrow boat is 5 years old and only just done 200 hours but the gland was leaking grease and water (and there was a general purpose grease tub in the bay). I've just replaced my packing, and all the grease. The old packing seemed ok when removed, heyho at least I know all is in order now.
I completely disagree that the gland should drip, a good shaft and seal will work and stop water.
If there is excessive wear you will in most cases still get a reasonable seal.
However I have no complaint with 45° cut but for what it might give mehh ok if you want to why not. Makes sense.
The grease will help that seal anyway.
The old system that uses grease can get messy but it worked well and is ideal for the canal as it offers a solid support for the shaft.
I've seen deep water seal systems not support the shaft as it uses a softer cutlass bearing.
However ob deep water they are great.
Hope that helps
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 thanks, that's good to know the gland should not drip. Will take careful adjustment to seal completely but not be overnight in order to stay cool and avoid wear.
I guess dripless are more suitable offshore where the water generally contains less silt and solid obstructions to foul the prop.
Really thorough and interesting explanation. I do hope you will stick with making videos. It may take a bit of time and effort but there's enormous potential for channels like this where interesting and knowledgable people take things apart, repair and fix them - and boats are intrinsically interesting for a lot of people too.
Seems to be going ok. I have lots of footage.
Thanks for the feedback
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Technical channels can do really well. He's in a different field, but if you haven't come across him already have a look at Big Clive's output and the 'featured channels' he has on his main page www.youtube.co/user/bigclivedotcom
Nice one fella :) Clear, concise and engaging. Keep em coming.
Brilliant video. Very well explained to such an extent that even a numpty like I can understand. May I also thank you for the brilliant work you have done with TIMEA which is laudable and a superb idea. Rogue ‘engineers’ are the Bain of both customer and professionals and you are doing your profession proud. I now have some understanding of the stern gear on my NB
Thank you, it's a big collective effort. And hopefully it will help everyone benefit.
Glad you enjoyed the video.
Really well explained. Thank you!
Very good and informative video. Could how tell me how i get the gear selector control shaft out to replace o ring and spacer. The engine is in situ on the boat and access is ok.
What gearbox are we talking about?
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 PRM Delta 1.5/1
This is covered in the user manual. There is a process.
Hi, great informative video! You mention using a sealant on the thread, which sealant type do you use?
There are many but i have used a modern product many times CT1
This product claims to be able to cure under water, not that you need to when installing this equipment.
Another very informative and enjoyable video, thanks! Interesting about the tapers needing matched, do you lap those in or does each prop need machined every time?!
I think you're eventually going to have a very successful channel. Keep working on being strict with yourself about the structure of these videos.
The bit about the plate you are putting in to support the stern tube was interesting but it broke up the flow of what is supposed to be a discussion of "fundamentals". Maybe you could have put that bit in at the end as an interesting bonus. Also, good to signpost what you are going to do right at the beginning. I don't think you said in the intro that you were going to show us how to renew the packing.
That said your actual explanations are very clear and informative and impart a lot of your good judgement and experience (not just the textbook stuff).
Yes I can wonder of track a bit. Duly noted with thanks
Nice 👍 just a quick ? I do get abit of grease coming out where you said but no water is this ok or needs repacking thank you
It may be just a case of tightening the gland. Usually its a balance between stopping water coming in and allowing free movement of the shaft.
The gland must not normally restrict the shaft spinning easily.
But ultimately older shafts and seals can be a little messy.
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 thank you 👍
All that said, here's a question: I have a NB that I purchased out of the water with stern gear but no engine. There is some wear on the propshaft where it goes through the gland. How do you judge when such wear is excessive? What problems will it cause? I'm assuming I'll need someone experienced to come and look at it for me, so I'm just asking out of interest.
Once I have a stern gland in my hands again I will make a video on how to re-pack it and what would be an acceptable amount of wear, the common issues you'll get, the gland seal will not seal, this causes obvious problems with excessive water ingress and the bilge pump will go off all the time, that effects your leisure power systems. Worse still if not monitored can cause a craft to list and sink in extreme cases. Excessive wear in the bearing part will stress the output on the gearbox and that gets expensive.
HI, as requested. Some guidance on shaft wear. I will get to a cutlass bearing too soon, hope this helps for now.
ruclips.net/video/yCGT9bgKrGo/видео.html
Hi I'm looking to re instate the stern tube gear in my 1968 westerly cirrus unfortunately the whole lot was taken out just to a broken engine ! Could you roughly tell me the cost of having this refitted I have engine shafts and prop
Can you email with pictures of the work and I'll estimate it.
darrencrouch@dhcrouchmarineltd.co.uk
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Hi thank you for the fast reply it would be refitting all of the stern tube gear as if you were starting from scratch if that makes sense? I'm able to fit engine regards paul
Sorry for the delay in replying. We had this Covid in the house. It's not fun.
As for your question. Are you asking about the labour costs or products costs?
Hi hope things have got better fortunately I've managed to stay clear of it ,I was really enquiring as to how much the Parst would roughly be if can I know how to fit an engine but have done anything with the stern gear so a learning curve for me thank so much paul
The last propeller cost around the £600 cast to order and the propeller shaft was about £300
The stern gland and bearing an additional £300
These are rough estimations and will vary, especially in the UK as raw materials have gone through the roof.
Hi Darren my shaft used to leak so i replaced the stuffing gland but now it dont leak good ....but the stuffing gland now warms up first question is how much grease do i wind in as i think there is no more water coming up the shaft have i put to much in ?my boat is 26ft sea boat 7 knot speed running ford D and borg box thanks simon
Hi. When you say you have replaced the stuffing gland, do you mean the entire cast gland or just the packing material?
Either way if the gland is getting hot the packing may be to tight?
Your welcome to email pictures if that helps
darrencrouch@dhcrouchmarineltd.co.uk
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Hi Darren so i now have the standard 4in flexi tube mine was 2in and was told to short ..So i have just repacked the stuffing box but have not as yet tightened the gland as im waiting for sea water to come in .............i did remove the shaft to have the grub screws drilled deeper in the shaft to stop movement ...and when put back use half pot of grease like the one in the vid ....i,m thinking not allowing water up the shaft ...my question is how much should i put in the shaft about 3 ft in length ....thanks simon ill get you piccy weekend
Great thank you
Hahahhahaaa tesco propeller!!😂😂😂🤦♀️ im sure some ppl would try to get one if tescos would sell it.
Lol