Hey Jeff, 1998 LSC owner and devote Mark VIII owner of 4 of them so far. Appreciate your videos and your wisdom. I have very little luck with any of the DORMAN products no matter which vehicle I am buying for. Keep up the good work, stay well.
I have the same car only gray guts and my comp. quit the other day and thank you u tube university and you as well jeff going out now to do the same thing hope its all good thanks again for sharing your work.
Jeff here is an update! It wasn't crankshaft sensor. It was the IGNITION CONTROL MODULE! I replaced it and car started. Thanks for all of your assistance and willingness to assist a fellow Mark VIII owner..
I ended up taking the Dorman compressor assembly back to Autozone. Their compressors are junk... In the end I picked up an Arnot compressor and it’s quiet and works great. Lifetime warranty from Arnot.
I own 3 mark 8's and have taken the air ride off of 2 of them and replaced them with springs. I'm getting ready to do the 3rd very soon. You can buy the spring kits, but it's cheaper to go to the salvage yard and get them off a thunderbird. Get the springs and lower control arms for the back and the struts for the front. You'll have to fabricate a top bracket to hold the springs on the back. I actually think the cars handle better with springs and I don't see any difference in ride comfort. It'll save you a lot of money in the future.
I like the air ride system. Although mine is a 1998 I've only replaced the front shocks/bags and the compressor once. The biggest issue was trying to understand the system and how it works. Once I understood it was easy to maintain.
Jeff - The air ride system is good until you start having problems, and then it's gonna cost you a lot of money. I replaced mine with spring ride and don't see any difference in ride comfort. The spring ride actually seems to have better handling around corners. I left the air ride on my cars until they started malfunctioning.
For a 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII the Air Suspension Compressor Relay (ASCR) wiring from the EVTM is as follows: BK/Y = Power Feed from the 60A fuse. P/O = Compressor Motor Output. DB/Y = Compressor on command signal input (active low). BK = Ground to G104 through splice S104. The 1997 Lincoln EVTM is very complete although I have found some errors here and there. Splices tie grounds together to reduce ground loops for the different subsystems. Once the star ground is created (splice) it then returns to the battery through a dedicated ground. Exactly how the ground returns to the source (Battery / Alternator) is best determined by looking at the vehicle wiring looms and chassis connections. The ASCR, as a solid state relay, is supposed to have a long life compared to a large conventional relay of the same amperage. Meaning it should not be a point of failure when compared to the other components MTBF. From an electrical engineering standpoint a new ASCR should not require the same heatsink area as the original stock ASCR. MOSFET automotive smart power devices have matured to the point where you could just pot the ASCR in an aluminum case (also acting as the heatsink) without any fins, and when on continuously would only seem a little warm to the touch.
Question. I want to manually control the air compressor, I can totally bypass the sensor and run toggle switches, correct? That way I can raise to desired height? Also when I park it, I'd like to release all the air from the suspension, is there an electronic or manual valve for the air to release?
Ty for your informative video I live in tacoma and sure could use somne help figuring out why the car drops when I drive it and not while sitting? Mine is a 97 cannot find any leaks. And sometimes there is a big delay for the pump to come on after it lowers. Any help would be apporeciated.
Tazz Lesh The trouble I found with the fan is the connector. It’s the same connector used on the inside blower. Because if the amperage it draws the negative gets burned. Instead of replacing the connector I directly soldered the wires to the fan and have not had any more issues.
The code I received says the secondary fuel circuit (543 & 587 I think) and the VCRM (Variable Control Relay Module) needed attention. I found a VCRM on a 97 Mark, and was told that the crankshaft sensor may be causing code 543! I surely want to avoid the fuel pump cause I have a tank filled with gas!!!! I DO NOT want to mess with ac compressor but I've discharged it already. Question: Is it possible to connect the VCRM connector backwards? thx
I’ve always removed the front bumper cover to replace the assembly. However it can be done from the right wheel well with the wheel well removed. Also have to remove the right headlight to gain access to the upper mount bolt. Also the lower skirt has to come off.
@@algiordano9214 Just both headlights and the bottom cover. If memory serves me right it’s two bolts on both sides and 4 or 5 in the center on top by the radiator with the hood opened. With the headlights out there is a simple plastic clip that extends under the lights that keep it in place. It just pops right up and off. I had a white one and removed it several times just to take it to the body shop for painting it since everyone loves to run into it… Pretty simple once you do it.
Chris Stephens No... but that is 99% of the time the blend air door. Remove the cover under the glovebox (glovebox out helps too). Look towards the center of the car and there is a grey lever connected to a rod running to the center of the dash. It has a known breakage issue. It’s connected to the blend air door actuator that is mounted center instrument panel behind and below the message display. To replace either actuator the entire instrument panel has to be unbolted and moved backwards. The lower lever controls the air over the heater core. Some people lasso it and tie it in the open position which allows the air to again flow over the heater core. I replaced both of them on my car. There are good instructions on the internet. Search for Lincoln Mark VIII blend air door replacement if this link doesn’t work. www.markviii.org/LOD2/blend_door_repair.htm
When everything is closed up I barely hear it. After exiting the freeway and coming to a stop light I can hear it kick on to bring it back up to height. Or early in the morning when I'm warming the car up on a cold morning. Joyce, my better half would never hear it. I replaced mine with one from AutoZone because it had a lifetime warranty. It was either a Westar or Dorman. I'm thinking the Dorman assembly... It sounded like it was going to fall apart or blow up... I got my money back on it and purchased an Arnott on Amazon and love it. My old compressor was ok but the vent valve gave up and there was no way to repair it, try as I might...
@@tjernagel Thanks. I am used to the one in a Mercedes which is quieter, but the one on my Mark VIII sounds similar, just louder. Are they relatively easy to replace?
@@youtoobe169 Not too hard, just a pain. Front right hand wheel off along with the wheelwell. Remove the bottom plastic cover that. The last time I did it I needed to have the bumper cover repainted so I pulled it off and the compressor was a breeze...
Nope. Sold it about 6 months ago when I found a new toy I wanted to buy. It was hard to see it go. There were no maintenance issues with it and it still wasn’t burning oil during changes. But it was time.
How hard is it to replace compressor pump. Do you have to remove out things to get at it? Mine is a 1995 mark 8 is the pump in the same location. Al Giordano thanks for the info.
Thanks for your video Jeff.. My Mark VIII is a 94. The other day, it quit running suddenly. Have you any videos on replacing the Crankshaft Sensor? Thanks!
Don't have any video's but here are the instructions... REMOVAL 1. Disconnect negative battery cable. NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the adaptive strategy. 2. Remove serpentine belt. 3. Raise vehicle and support with jackstands. 4. Disconnect Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor and A/C compressor electrical connectors from the engine wiring harness. 5. Discharge the A/C system and remove the A/C compressor. 6. Remove the CKP sensor retaining screw and sensor. INSTALLATION 1. Make sure the CKP sensor mounting surface is clean and sensor O-ring is in proper location on the assembly. Position CKP sensor assembly and install the retaining screw. 2. Tighten to 8-12 Nm (71-106 in lb) . CAUTION: Do not overtighten the screw. 3. Install the A/C compressor. Evacuate and recharge the A/C system. 4. Properly route the engine wiring harness and connect the electrical connectors to the A/C compressor and crankshaft sensor. 5. Lower the vehicle. 6. Install the serpentine belt. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
I have never had to change it. Before completely removing the AC compressor I would first try to unbolt it, leaving the hoses attached, and moving it enough to all the sensor to be removed from the block...
Jeff Tjernagel Thanks... That was my thought exactly! Now go break crankshaft sensor on your Mark VIII, then make a video repairing it! Lol. Thanks again for your videos. Make it an awesome day!
I really appreciate the directions. It confirms that you may be an attention to detail type! I've been following the manual and have already discharged ac compressor and placed jack stands underneath. The bolts (2) seem to be in the least accessible place. It's good to know there is only one for the CKP. Thanks again.
On the left hand side in almost the same location as the air compressor (on right) there is an identical relay for the Electric Air Management (EAM) pump motor. It will look like this: www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/relay-air-pump/duralast-relay-air-pump/412243_0_0
Can your car running with out the air Compressor? I want off Because I wants what that into my 69 Mustang I have to swap everything Wire harness and everything and I don't want the APS to..... thank first.
No. In time the airbags would leak down creating a dangerous driving condition and there isn't a OEM method to put air in them. There are modifications where you can change the airbag shocks out with spring/coil shocks.
Hello brother I found my new pump at car parts .com it is from direct fit it was a close out and it was under 90$ with 3 year warrantee. It is working well so far but I just put it in. Seems like my front is pumping up slightly higher I need to figure that out still.
After replacing the voltage relay the compressor ran and ran and ran... I pulled the airline off the right hand bag, turned the compressor on... No air... It's dead. I'll pull it out today and put my original compressor back in. I only changed it because it's 20 years old I have no idea how much brush is left in the motor. I'll take the assembly back to Autozone for a refund. This is the second Dormer compressor assembly that I purchased that has failed. This assembly has only been used for just over a week... After market parts just aren't as reliable as they use to be. As I do the work today I'll put together an add-on video on what steps I take to check the compressor for output...
Hey Jeff, 1998 LSC owner and devote Mark VIII owner of 4 of them so far. Appreciate your videos and your wisdom. I have very little luck with any of the DORMAN products no matter which vehicle I am buying for. Keep up the good work, stay well.
Hey @Sam-gb2hq I owned 2 so far rn I have #1258 collector one rn and I have a few questions for you if you don’t mind
I have the same car only gray guts and my comp. quit the other day and thank you u tube university and you as well jeff going out now to do the same thing hope its all good thanks again for sharing your work.
Very helpful . Wish my dad was more like you.
Jeff here is an update! It wasn't crankshaft sensor. It was the IGNITION CONTROL MODULE! I replaced it and car started. Thanks for all of your assistance and willingness to assist a fellow Mark VIII owner..
I ended up taking the Dorman compressor assembly back to Autozone. Their compressors are junk... In the end I picked up an Arnot compressor and it’s quiet and works great. Lifetime warranty from Arnot.
My air ride system went out after driving with a bad battery. I'm going to test this out now. Thanks
Great video
I own 3 mark 8's and have taken the air ride off of 2 of them and replaced them with springs. I'm getting ready to do the 3rd very soon. You can buy the spring kits, but it's cheaper to go to the salvage yard and get them off a thunderbird. Get the springs and lower control arms for the back and the struts for the front. You'll have to fabricate a top bracket to hold the springs on the back. I actually think the cars handle better with springs and I don't see any difference in ride comfort. It'll save you a lot of money in the future.
I like the air ride system. Although mine is a 1998 I've only replaced the front shocks/bags and the compressor once. The biggest issue was trying to understand the system and how it works. Once I understood it was easy to maintain.
Jeff - The air ride system is good until you start having problems, and then it's gonna cost you a lot of money. I replaced mine with spring ride and don't see any difference in ride comfort. The spring ride actually seems to have better handling around corners. I left the air ride on my cars until they started malfunctioning.
@@tjernagelI’m looking to understand the system. That’s why I’m here. I could save a ton of money
Thank you
i just ordered a cardone compressor, hopefully it works out.
What is the other connector you can check out? My compressor didn't come on.😢
For a 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII the Air Suspension Compressor Relay (ASCR) wiring from the EVTM is as follows:
BK/Y = Power Feed from the 60A fuse.
P/O = Compressor Motor Output.
DB/Y = Compressor on command signal input (active low).
BK = Ground to G104 through splice S104.
The 1997 Lincoln EVTM is very complete although I have found some errors here and there. Splices tie grounds together to reduce ground loops for the different subsystems. Once the star ground is created (splice) it then returns to the battery through a dedicated ground. Exactly how the ground returns to the source (Battery / Alternator) is best determined by looking at the vehicle wiring looms and chassis connections.
The ASCR, as a solid state relay, is supposed to have a long life compared to a large conventional relay of the same amperage. Meaning it should not be a point of failure when compared to the other components MTBF.
From an electrical engineering standpoint a new ASCR should not require the same heatsink area as the original stock ASCR. MOSFET automotive smart power devices have matured to the point where you could just pot the ASCR in an aluminum case (also acting as the heatsink) without any fins, and when on continuously would only seem a little warm to the touch.
Mine was the relay a few years ago it just recently prompted a check air ride ,once I turned it off and back on all ok so far
Question.
I want to manually control the air compressor, I can totally bypass the sensor and run toggle switches, correct?
That way I can raise to desired height?
Also when I park it, I'd like to release all the air from the suspension, is there an electronic or manual valve for the air to release?
Ty for your informative video I live in tacoma and sure could use somne help figuring out why the car drops when I drive it and not while sitting? Mine is a 97 cannot find any leaks. And sometimes there is a big delay for the pump to come on after it lowers. Any help would be apporeciated.
Would you have any videos on the radiator fan not working? Have replaced the vcrm and nothing. I have a 96 mark viii
Tazz Lesh The trouble I found with the fan is the connector. It’s the same connector used on the inside blower. Because if the amperage it draws the negative gets burned.
Instead of replacing the connector I directly soldered the wires to the fan and have not had any more issues.
The code I received says the secondary fuel circuit (543 & 587 I think) and the VCRM (Variable Control Relay Module) needed attention.
I found a VCRM on a 97 Mark, and was told that the crankshaft sensor may be causing code 543! I surely want to avoid the fuel pump cause I have a tank filled with gas!!!! I DO NOT want to mess with ac compressor but I've discharged it already.
Question: Is it possible to connect the VCRM connector backwards? thx
Thanks
Thanks for the info. I have a 95 Mark Eight do you know the easiest way to replace the compressor??? Thanks
I’ve always removed the front bumper cover to replace the assembly. However it can be done from the right wheel well with the wheel well removed. Also have to remove the right headlight to gain access to the upper mount bolt. Also the lower skirt has to come off.
@@tjernagel Thanks Jeff great info. Thanks for your help and quick reply. Your the man. Al
Jeff if I remove the front bumper does anything else need to come of to gain access to remove and install the new pump?
@@algiordano9214 Just both headlights and the bottom cover. If memory serves me right it’s two bolts on both sides and 4 or 5 in the center on top by the radiator with the hood opened.
With the headlights out there is a simple plastic clip that extends under the lights that keep it in place. It just pops right up and off.
I had a white one and removed it several times just to take it to the body shop for painting it since everyone loves to run into it… Pretty simple once you do it.
@@tjernagel Thanks Jeff you experience has been very invaluable.
Al Giordano
Do I HAVE to remove the front bumper to replace the compressor or can I get to it from the wheel in the well? The top maybe?
Thanks for the video.
No. You can get it from the wheel well but I've found it easier to remove the front bumper...
@@tjernagel Okay thanks man. Cheers!
Would you have a video on heater blowing cold air instead of heat. 1998 Lincoln mark 8
Chris Stephens No... but that is 99% of the time the blend air door.
Remove the cover under the glovebox (glovebox out helps too). Look towards the center of the car and there is a grey lever connected to a rod running to the center of the dash. It has a known breakage issue. It’s connected to the blend air door actuator that is mounted center instrument panel behind and below the message display.
To replace either actuator the entire instrument panel has to be unbolted and moved backwards.
The lower lever controls the air over the heater core. Some people lasso it and tie it in the open position which allows the air to again flow over the heater core.
I replaced both of them on my car.
There are good instructions on the internet. Search for Lincoln Mark VIII blend air door replacement if this link doesn’t work.
www.markviii.org/LOD2/blend_door_repair.htm
Here are instructions to temporarily getting it to work.
www.markviii.org/LOD2/emergency_heat.htm
Are these compressors supposed to be a bit loud?
When everything is closed up I barely hear it. After exiting the freeway and coming to a stop light I can hear it kick on to bring it back up to height. Or early in the morning when I'm warming the car up on a cold morning. Joyce, my better half would never hear it.
I replaced mine with one from AutoZone because it had a lifetime warranty. It was either a Westar or Dorman. I'm thinking the Dorman assembly... It sounded like it was going to fall apart or blow up... I got my money back on it and purchased an Arnott on Amazon and love it. My old compressor was ok but the vent valve gave up and there was no way to repair it, try as I might...
@@tjernagel Thanks. I am used to the one in a Mercedes which is quieter, but the one on my Mark VIII sounds similar, just louder. Are they relatively easy to replace?
@@youtoobe169 Not too hard, just a pain. Front right hand wheel off along with the wheelwell. Remove the bottom plastic cover that. The last time I did it I needed to have the bumper cover repainted so I pulled it off and the compressor was a breeze...
Do u still have the mark 8
Nope. Sold it about 6 months ago when I found a new toy I wanted to buy. It was hard to see it go. There were no maintenance issues with it and it still wasn’t burning oil during changes. But it was time.
How hard is it to replace compressor pump. Do you have to remove out things to get at it? Mine is a 1995 mark 8 is the pump in the same location. Al Giordano thanks for the info.
Thanks for your video Jeff.. My Mark VIII is a 94. The other day, it quit running suddenly. Have you any videos on replacing the Crankshaft Sensor? Thanks!
Don't have any video's but here are the instructions...
REMOVAL 1. Disconnect negative battery cable. NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the adaptive strategy.
2. Remove serpentine belt.
3. Raise vehicle and support with jackstands.
4. Disconnect Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor and A/C compressor electrical connectors from the engine wiring harness.
5. Discharge the A/C system and remove the A/C compressor.
6. Remove the CKP sensor retaining screw and sensor.
INSTALLATION
1. Make sure the CKP sensor mounting surface is clean and sensor O-ring is in proper location on the assembly.
Position CKP sensor assembly and install the retaining screw. 2. Tighten to 8-12 Nm (71-106 in lb) . CAUTION: Do not overtighten the screw.
3. Install the A/C compressor. Evacuate and recharge the A/C system.
4. Properly route the engine wiring harness and connect the electrical connectors to the A/C compressor and crankshaft sensor.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Install the serpentine belt.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
I have never had to change it. Before completely removing the AC compressor I would first try to unbolt it, leaving the hoses attached, and moving it enough to all the sensor to be removed from the block...
Jeff Tjernagel Thanks... That was my thought exactly! Now go break crankshaft sensor on your Mark VIII, then make a video repairing it! Lol. Thanks again for your videos. Make it an awesome day!
I'll get on that first thing this morning! :-)
I really appreciate the directions. It confirms that you may be an attention to detail type! I've been following the manual and have already discharged ac compressor and placed jack stands underneath. The bolts (2) seem to be in the least accessible place. It's good to know there is only one for the CKP. Thanks again.
How do you swap the relay?
On the left hand side in almost the same location as the air compressor (on right) there is an identical relay for the Electric Air Management (EAM) pump motor. It will look like this:
www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/relay-air-pump/duralast-relay-air-pump/412243_0_0
Can your car running with out the air Compressor? I want off Because I wants what that into my 69 Mustang I have to swap everything Wire harness and everything and I don't want the APS to..... thank first.
No. In time the airbags would leak down creating a dangerous driving condition and there isn't a OEM method to put air in them.
There are modifications where you can change the airbag shocks out with spring/coil shocks.
@@tjernagel thanks
Hello brother I found my new pump at car parts .com it is from direct fit it was a close out and it was under 90$ with 3 year warrantee. It is working well so far but I just put it in. Seems like my front is pumping up slightly higher I need to figure that out still.
Awesome you don't need the pump...
After replacing the voltage relay the compressor ran and ran and ran... I pulled the airline off the right hand bag, turned the compressor on... No air... It's dead. I'll pull it out today and put my original compressor back in. I only changed it because it's 20 years old I have no idea how much brush is left in the motor.
I'll take the assembly back to Autozone for a refund. This is the second Dormer compressor assembly that I purchased that has failed. This assembly has only been used for just over a week...
After market parts just aren't as reliable as they use to be.
As I do the work today I'll put together an add-on video on what steps I take to check the compressor for output...