One thing I should have made better note of, make sure the end of the driveshaft around the cap is supported to make sure it doesn't get tweaked when knocking the cap out. Other people use a big socket but I didn't think to do that at the time. If it does get tweaked the ujoint will be real stiff and you have to bend it back in slightly until the ujoint fits properly. I am by no means a professional, these videos are just me showing what I ended up doing
Always enjoy & appreciate vids like this but I've been doing UJ's on vehicles for 40yrs & soon realised there's a way to do them without the needles being able to displace. You put the joint in with one end cap, then you move the cross piece out of that cup ALMOST out but not quite so the needles cannot fall out, then you put the opposite cup on the bit of shaft now protruding & push the whole thing the other way. There's no point during the process where needles can come dislodged, they are designed to be assembled without needles falling out otherwise car factories would spend half their time picking up needles off the floor lol
That is more or less what I had to do when I put the rest of the driveshaft together. That video was my first time messing with U joints. That install wasn't very professional but it works. Only real mistake I made was putting a Ujoint that had the grease fitting on the housing not the cap and with the drive shaft angle from the trans to the carrier bearing it took about an hour to find a way to grease it. Hindsight 20/20.
If you are set up in a press and your part is not budging, tap on or around it with with a small ball peen hammer. The vibration will usually help pop it loose. Shoot it with a bit more penetrating oil while you tap--the vibrations will also cause the oil to seep in more easily. You got lucky knocking that one out as easily as you did.
I did this method for the stock u-joints on a 1999 z71 Tahoe with the same results (after I melted the plastic out from around the caps) and it worked on stock u joints from the 1968 drive shaft that had been sitting exposed to the elements for the last 20 years so that suggests to me that this is a decent method.
Not arguing with your methodology. I've done dozens of them like that over the years, done them in a vise, etc. Just responding to your struggle moving it with a press. Tapping on it while under pressure almost always pops whatever you are pushing on.
Thanks for the input, I never tried tapping around on it but I am sure that it would have helped. More than anything the Chinese press was what was worrying me
Yup it takes the memory out of the metal and it doesn't take but some small little taps with a ball peen, nothing ferocious lol Also if the carrier won't come off the shaft just heat one small section of the bearing and hit it with a chisel it should stretch it out and come right off thats another common issue when changing carrier bearings and way better than a grinder since you really don't have to worry about splines in the way if you put the chisel in the right spot. It works great for all sorts of races not just for carriers just crank the oxygen/acetylene or propane torch up heat one little section cherry red across the stuck bearing an one good smack with a chisel it will slide right off the shaft, its a handy little piece of knowledge to know rather than trying to heat it evenly and work it around with a hammer or using a puller because the shafts going to expand just as quick while you are trying to evenly heat the damn things to beat it to death. There are plenty of tips and tricks out there to be gained from all the old timers before they retire if you are careful to be respectfu an also humble. That's the thing about skilled labor jobs is that you can learn just one little thing that makes you more effective at turning wrenches and that makes you stand out above others in the job market. You can turn wrenches for 60 years and still learn new tricks everyday which does keep the job a bit more entertaining. Another crazy tip that actually alot of people don't know which is if you need to get rid of something aluminum buy you a tube of some gallium off Amazon (it's like mercury but will stain your hands or whatever like a graphite pencil) but pour it on an aluminum object and it will eat it away as long as the aluminum is fairly clean and not oil covered. Works great when there is an aluminum roll pin that's a pain in the ass to get to. Just pour it and wait, it will make that pin fall apart lol Oh and coke cans are fun to put that shit on too. It will eat it up and you can poke a hole with your finger right through the can afterwards an its like poking snow or something close to that lol. Magnets can be your best friend too. Get a like 75 lb pull force magnet for when you need and extra hand and they come in extremely handy. I'll pry something back with my 36" indexing bar and then have it held to the body or frame of something and boy does that help in certain situations. Another trick most people don't know is that if your welding in a very tight spot where you can't run too hot and you need to but that metal can't be dripping down into something else, just get you an air arc rod and it will act as a backstop and keep slag or metal from stick to things and it won't stick to the rod either. So that works great when you have a decent size hole you need to patch quickly and don't want to let things cool before you run another pass just throw a couple rods behind the hole and fill it in don't have to really worry about how hot you are running unless you're welding on something that can't be warped a little bit or anything. So there ya go there's a couple small tips for you that might come in handy later down the road kinda like super glue and baking soda I use it to fix shit all the time my most used combo it's a badass pair to fix alot of different materials!
From Denny's Driveshafts pn# 3-3130, NEAPCO Combination U-Joint 1310 to GM 3R Series. I ended up not using it because the 4x4 has a larger slip yoke than the 2x4 so when I had to buy a new slip yoke I just bought one that used a 1310 U-Joint. If you were still using the 4 wheel drive then this may prove useful as long as the 1310 can handle the torque of low range gearing.
I get the shaft up on the bench and support the yoke with the faces of a big vise, then use one hammer to tap another hammer of the correct size to drive the joint out of the yoke. The two hammers allows careful control of the one actually driving the joint out of the yoke. Wear eye protection and use penetrating oil beforehand. Got one of these to do this morning. The replacement joints are also cold soaking and I will warm the yoke a tiny bit with a torch when I am ready to install the new joints.
Yours popped out Quite Decently, Yes going Back In is the Prowess needed routine. Put Extra Thick Grease In The caps to keep them lil needle bearings from moving around. Bike(Motorcycle) Wheel bearing Grease Is very Sticky enough!
Great way to save the day. Myself however, when I’ve already got everything out and the joints are that old, I replace them all. Reusing them may get you by for a awhile, but then you have to pull the thing out again and again. They’re wear parts, they have years and miles on them and you’re going to adding more power to the power train. It doesn’t make sense to me to not replace them all ams avoid a problem in a week, month year from now. Same with anything, if a wheel bearing or ball joint goes, I do both sides because they have the same mileage/time on them, Then it’s off the table for a long time to come.
I wasn't real concerned because at the time they only had about 134k on them and they still looked in good shape apart from the one. Based on my experience with aftermarket parts I generally don't replace stuff unless it is unrebuildable, a safety item (ex. suspension), or cost prohibitive. Seems like used factory parts are often better than what you get from a parts store. And I kinda trust proven parts more then new, like if these components have been happy together for 100k and still look happy then why not let them continue? Personal preference but I don't like tossing parts that still have substantial life and with the build of this truck and the 280zx for that matter, if I redo every single thing I am afraid of getting burnt out before I get it on the road. So doing stuff like this may mean readdressing it in the future but it helps me get the car to the point where it can be driven enough to need addressing. There has been a lot of stuff like that on the 68 but I have gotten to enjoy it as I have steadily improved it. With that said, I agree with your response for a daily driver and questionable parts. Ujoints have had 4 years and about 12k miles put on them, all seems good except for maybe the carrier bearing rubber that I think I will replace when I can get around to pulling/resealing the trans pump. Thanks for the input and conversation
I am not sure which part you are asking about, I think the U-joints can go back in any orientation. If they are used, then the specific cap and needle bearings need to go back on the u-joint where they came from as they are worn to each other. The splined yoke on the transmission side should be able to slide into the transmission in any orientation. This should also be true for the splines between the two driveshafts but in my case it would only go one way for some reason. I am not an expert in any of this but when in doubt I try and put things back how they came apart, let me know if this help
I'm glad you removed it but i would not recommend this. Anything on the tubing of the drive shaft is a nono...... If it bents at all it will be unbalanced and cause major issues. This peice can NOT be bent . keep all pressure on the metal knuckles. Its made of cazt iron so it will NOT break from your strength. Just hoping noone puts their weight and feet or any otger hard surface on the shaft portion of the driveline.
I was only resting my foot on it to keep it from rolling, I agree standing on it would be hard on it. I supported the end around the ujoint as best I could and tapped it out. I also don't claim this to be the best way, just the way that I did it.
I can see how that could happen but I used that black plate to help support it and soaked everything in penetrating oil. I tried using a press but I was really having to bear down on it and I didn't trust it. To me using a press is like a breaker bar and this method is like an impact, both pros and cons. That U-joint is likely an original one from 1968 or at the newest 1987, then the driveshaft sat outside since about 1998 so i would like to believe if it worked on that one and on a U-joint from the 4x4 tahoe without any trouble it should be ok.
Well being that the video is titled "how to remove U-joints without a Press" I am not sure exactly what you were expecting. I used this method on all the u-joints in the 68's driveshaft and even on the u-joints of a z71 Tahoe with no problem. If you are uncomfortable using this method then don't use it.
John Johnson don't quite see how, we don't have a press at our shop, always taken them out with hammer and sockets and never had an issue. If their ujoints are bad enough they bend a drive shaft then they had bigger problems to start with
Yep that happens to me too removing them is easy the old joint is no good anyway I had that happen to me installing the Moog joints the needles fell out and the joint would not seat all the way now I need to pound it out again cheap blue grease ...
Then they fall out from the cup on the opposite side. Trick is to move the u-joint half way into the cup - leaving the other end half way into it's cup
I don't understand what you are asking, I don't know what driveshafts interchange but if you need driveshaft work a professional shop in my recommendation
That kind of depends on the specific vehicle, on some (to keep from making a mess) you have to drain the trans (or tansfercase if a 4x4) fluid. If it's a single piece driveshaft just unbolt the u-joint from the diff and slide the yoke out of the transmission. If it's a two piece like mine, you also have to undo the carrier bearing mount (mark the spline so goes back the exact same way). I would consult a shop manual for your vehicle or someone knowledgeable about your vehicle to be sure.
Hope it helped, only thing I would have made better note of in the video is to make sure the end of the driveshaft is supported good or apparently it can bend slightly and make the ujoint really stiff. Thanks for the nice comment
He was using it for a downward force not a driving force...some hammers are designed to do that and have a plate on the top...some have solid casings as well...impossible to put a new handle on and kind of pricey... Either way there are different ways to use a hammer and this isn't really the wrong way...just not the right hammer for the job...but it worked so who cares HAHAHA
ALUMINUM = NO!!! For newer aluminum driveshafts this is a sure fire way to ruin the shaft & yoke, then it's a trip to the junk yard and the hunt for another driveshaft. This is also HIGHLY dubious for installing the new joints. Wailing on a precision yoke on a balanced shaft is not wise. For the older steel shafts it may be ok, (it's what we did as ignorant teenagers "back in the day") but anything newer than the early 80's is risking serious shaft and yoke damage.
Thanks for the aluminum mention, I have never worked with one and don't know how sensitive they are. I didn't however advise wailing on anything and I used a rather small hammer to tap the new ones in which I wouldn't exactly call dubious. Assuming the person doing the work doesn't know what they are doing, I would think this method or a press have an equal chance of tearing something up
One thing I should have made better note of, make sure the end of the driveshaft around the cap is supported to make sure it doesn't get tweaked when knocking the cap out. Other people use a big socket but I didn't think to do that at the time. If it does get tweaked the ujoint will be real stiff and you have to bend it back in slightly until the ujoint fits properly. I am by no means a professional, these videos are just me showing what I ended up doing
I'm at this stage right now but also have an aluminum drive shaft and dont want to damage it.
Always enjoy & appreciate vids like this but I've been doing UJ's on vehicles for 40yrs & soon realised there's a way to do them without the needles being able to displace.
You put the joint in with one end cap, then you move the cross piece out of that cup ALMOST out but not quite so the needles cannot fall out, then you put the opposite cup on the bit of shaft now protruding & push the whole thing the other way.
There's no point during the process where needles can come dislodged, they are designed to be assembled without needles falling out otherwise car factories would spend half their time picking up needles off the floor lol
That is more or less what I had to do when I put the rest of the driveshaft together. That video was my first time messing with U joints. That install wasn't very professional but it works. Only real mistake I made was putting a Ujoint that had the grease fitting on the housing not the cap and with the drive shaft angle from the trans to the carrier bearing it took about an hour to find a way to grease it. Hindsight 20/20.
Damn that came out easily. Yesterday I spent 2 hours swinging a sledge to remove 2 rusty-crusty u joints. Install was maybe 5 minutes.
I was surprised too given it sat in a barn for some years and then sat uncovered outside
If you are set up in a press and your part is not budging, tap on or around it with with a small ball peen hammer. The vibration will usually help pop it loose. Shoot it with a bit more penetrating oil while you tap--the vibrations will also cause the oil to seep in more easily. You got lucky knocking that one out as easily as you did.
I did this method for the stock u-joints on a 1999 z71 Tahoe with the same results (after I melted the plastic out from around the caps) and it worked on stock u joints from the 1968 drive shaft that had been sitting exposed to the elements for the last 20 years so that suggests to me that this is a decent method.
Not arguing with your methodology. I've done dozens of them like that over the years, done them in a vise, etc. Just responding to your struggle moving it with a press. Tapping on it while under pressure almost always pops whatever you are pushing on.
Thanks for the input, I never tried tapping around on it but I am sure that it would have helped. More than anything the Chinese press was what was worrying me
Yup it takes the memory out of the metal and it doesn't take but some small little taps with a ball peen, nothing ferocious lol Also if the carrier won't come off the shaft just heat one small section of the bearing and hit it with a chisel it should stretch it out and come right off thats another common issue when changing carrier bearings and way better than a grinder since you really don't have to worry about splines in the way if you put the chisel in the right spot. It works great for all sorts of races not just for carriers just crank the oxygen/acetylene or propane torch up heat one little section cherry red across the stuck bearing an one good smack with a chisel it will slide right off the shaft, its a handy little piece of knowledge to know rather than trying to heat it evenly and work it around with a hammer or using a puller because the shafts going to expand just as quick while you are trying to evenly heat the damn things to beat it to death. There are plenty of tips and tricks out there to be gained from all the old timers before they retire if you are careful to be respectfu an also humble. That's the thing about skilled labor jobs is that you can learn just one little thing that makes you more effective at turning wrenches and that makes you stand out above others in the job market. You can turn wrenches for 60 years and still learn new tricks everyday which does keep the job a bit more entertaining. Another crazy tip that actually alot of people don't know which is if you need to get rid of something aluminum buy you a tube of some gallium off Amazon (it's like mercury but will stain your hands or whatever like a graphite pencil) but pour it on an aluminum object and it will eat it away as long as the aluminum is fairly clean and not oil covered. Works great when there is an aluminum roll pin that's a pain in the ass to get to. Just pour it and wait, it will make that pin fall apart lol Oh and coke cans are fun to put that shit on too. It will eat it up and you can poke a hole with your finger right through the can afterwards an its like poking snow or something close to that lol. Magnets can be your best friend too. Get a like 75 lb pull force magnet for when you need and extra hand and they come in extremely handy. I'll pry something back with my 36" indexing bar and then have it held to the body or frame of something and boy does that help in certain situations. Another trick most people don't know is that if your welding in a very tight spot where you can't run too hot and you need to but that metal can't be dripping down into something else, just get you an air arc rod and it will act as a backstop and keep slag or metal from stick to things and it won't stick to the rod either. So that works great when you have a decent size hole you need to patch quickly and don't want to let things cool before you run another pass just throw a couple rods behind the hole and fill it in don't have to really worry about how hot you are running unless you're welding on something that can't be warped a little bit or anything. So there ya go there's a couple small tips for you that might come in handy later down the road kinda like super glue and baking soda I use it to fix shit all the time my most used combo it's a badass pair to fix alot of different materials!
Thanks man it was easy once I had it set up correctly! Great video
Great to hear!
From Denny's Driveshafts pn# 3-3130, NEAPCO Combination U-Joint 1310 to GM 3R Series. I ended up not using it because the 4x4 has a larger slip yoke than the 2x4 so when I had to buy a new slip yoke I just bought one that used a 1310 U-Joint. If you were still using the 4 wheel drive then this may prove useful as long as the 1310 can handle the torque of low range gearing.
I get the shaft up on the bench and support the yoke with the faces of a big vise, then use one hammer to tap another hammer of the correct size to drive the joint out of the yoke. The two hammers allows careful control of the one actually driving the joint out of the yoke. Wear eye protection and use penetrating oil beforehand. Got one of these to do this morning. The replacement joints are also cold soaking and I will warm the yoke a tiny bit with a torch when I am ready to install the new joints.
Thank you so much!! The thicker grease trick was very useful for me!
Glad it helped!
Thank you man for this video. this video has really helped me. i got a 1972 1210 international with pressed in U-joints. So thank you again man.
Glad it helped, thanks for the feedback
Yours popped out Quite Decently, Yes going Back In is the Prowess needed routine. Put Extra Thick Grease In The caps to keep them lil needle bearings from moving around. Bike(Motorcycle) Wheel bearing Grease Is very Sticky enough!
Hey thanks man this was exactly what I needed to see
Glad to hear that!
@@PracticallyStock i got it done! Great trick with the little extension
Great way to save the day. Myself however, when I’ve already got everything out and the joints are that old, I replace them all.
Reusing them may get you by for a awhile, but then you have to pull the thing out again and again. They’re wear parts, they have years and miles on them and you’re going to adding more power to the power train. It doesn’t make sense to me to not replace them all ams avoid a problem in a week, month year from now.
Same with anything, if a wheel bearing or ball joint goes, I do both sides because they have the same mileage/time on them, Then it’s off the table for a long time to come.
I wasn't real concerned because at the time they only had about 134k on them and they still looked in good shape apart from the one. Based on my experience with aftermarket parts I generally don't replace stuff unless it is unrebuildable, a safety item (ex. suspension), or cost prohibitive. Seems like used factory parts are often better than what you get from a parts store. And I kinda trust proven parts more then new, like if these components have been happy together for 100k and still look happy then why not let them continue? Personal preference but I don't like tossing parts that still have substantial life and with the build of this truck and the 280zx for that matter, if I redo every single thing I am afraid of getting burnt out before I get it on the road. So doing stuff like this may mean readdressing it in the future but it helps me get the car to the point where it can be driven enough to need addressing. There has been a lot of stuff like that on the 68 but I have gotten to enjoy it as I have steadily improved it. With that said, I agree with your response for a daily driver and questionable parts. Ujoints have had 4 years and about 12k miles put on them, all seems good except for maybe the carrier bearing rubber that I think I will replace when I can get around to pulling/resealing the trans pump. Thanks for the input and conversation
@@PracticallyStock man I fully agree on used OEM over Chinese junk.
Other than your non conventional use of a sledgehammer... Good job!
great video, really helps with my project, since I don't even HAVE a press.
Autozone let’s u borrow them for free bud, just need a down payment that goes 100% back when returning the kit.
Came apart easy
Was it taken apart earlier then reassembled for show ?
I knocked one of them out, thought it went pretty good, decided to video doing the other one
I put the caps in the freezer for a while before I press them in
How important is it to put the universal yoke back in the same position as it was?
I am not sure which part you are asking about, I think the U-joints can go back in any orientation. If they are used, then the specific cap and needle bearings need to go back on the u-joint where they came from as they are worn to each other. The splined yoke on the transmission side should be able to slide into the transmission in any orientation. This should also be true for the splines between the two driveshafts but in my case it would only go one way for some reason. I am not an expert in any of this but when in doubt I try and put things back how they came apart, let me know if this help
@DreamTeamProductions Yes, I meant the U-joints. It does help. Thanks for taking the time to reply.👍
Been doing it this way for 40 years , seem the impact is much more effective then a press on u joints
Definitely worked good for me
Thanks man, getting old now and I always forget how these suckers come out 😅
Unless you have a true hydraulic press, this is the best way.
Until you realize that all your extensions are damaged to the point they won't fit your ratchet. That's been my experience anyway
@@JasonTAho that's why you keep a cheap as dirt set specifically for hammering on
I'm glad you removed it but i would not recommend this. Anything on the tubing of the drive shaft is a nono...... If it bents at all it will be unbalanced and cause major issues. This peice can NOT be bent . keep all pressure on the metal knuckles. Its made of cazt iron so it will NOT break from your strength. Just hoping noone puts their weight and feet or any otger hard surface on the shaft portion of the driveline.
I was only resting my foot on it to keep it from rolling, I agree standing on it would be hard on it. I supported the end around the ujoint as best I could and tapped it out. I also don't claim this to be the best way, just the way that I did it.
also... did the Exact same thing! smashed needle bearing and all. i got the moogs with grease zerts
what brand and part number is the SPECIAL UJOINT
not all u joints are that easy your gonna cause some one to bend their shaft
I can see how that could happen but I used that black plate to help support it and soaked everything in penetrating oil. I tried using a press but I was really having to bear down on it and I didn't trust it. To me using a press is like a breaker bar and this method is like an impact, both pros and cons. That U-joint is likely an original one from 1968 or at the newest 1987, then the driveshaft sat outside since about 1998 so i would like to believe if it worked on that one and on a U-joint from the 4x4 tahoe without any trouble it should be ok.
A bench press is the best way to go
Well being that the video is titled "how to remove U-joints without a Press" I am not sure exactly what you were expecting. I used this method on all the u-joints in the 68's driveshaft and even on the u-joints of a z71 Tahoe with no problem. If you are uncomfortable using this method then don't use it.
John Johnson I love shaft bend mmm lmfao jk
John Johnson don't quite see how, we don't have a press at our shop, always taken them out with hammer and sockets and never had an issue. If their ujoints are bad enough they bend a drive shaft then they had bigger problems to start with
Yep that happens to me too removing them is easy the old joint is no good anyway I had that happen to me installing the Moog joints the needles fell out and the joint would not seat all the way now I need to pound it out again cheap blue grease ...
I'll stop by tomorrow with my driveshaft & new joints :)
Wouldn't it be easier to use a c clamp and socket
If you had a big enough one that could handle it maybe (I do not)
A big C clamp and some Popeye arms....
the needles fell out cause yer not doing it incorrectly , ya have to hold cross up into the cup your installing so they cant move or come out
Then they fall out from the cup on the opposite side. Trick is to move the u-joint half way into the cup - leaving the other end half way into it's cup
There’s absolutely no way that’s working for me....
i had to cut mine out with a torch, i even tried using the u joint pusher with no luck.
I HAVE A 1995 FORD VAN. WHAT VEHICLE, DRIVESHAFT INTERCHANGE 64 AND A HALF INCHS
I don't understand what you are asking, I don't know what driveshafts interchange but if you need driveshaft work a professional shop in my recommendation
Great vid brother...
How to remove drive shaft?
That kind of depends on the specific vehicle, on some (to keep from making a mess) you have to drain the trans (or tansfercase if a 4x4) fluid. If it's a single piece driveshaft just unbolt the u-joint from the diff and slide the yoke out of the transmission. If it's a two piece like mine, you also have to undo the carrier bearing mount (mark the spline so goes back the exact same way).
I would consult a shop manual for your vehicle or someone knowledgeable about your vehicle to be sure.
Thank you for educating me.
Hope it helped, only thing I would have made better note of in the video is to make sure the end of the driveshaft is supported good or apparently it can bend slightly and make the ujoint really stiff. Thanks for the nice comment
That was awesome
If only it were always that easy
Not quite sure you're using that hammer right ahaha but I guess if it works it works
Definitely right, but seemed a little more controlled than a full swing although that probably would have been more entertaining
He was using it for a downward force not a driving force...some hammers are designed to do that and have a plate on the top...some have solid casings as well...impossible to put a new handle on and kind of pricey...
Either way there are different ways to use a hammer and this isn't really the wrong way...just not the right hammer for the job...but it worked so who cares HAHAHA
@@Kolonol1 exactly. People always have to add their two cents like the guy didn't know how to swing a sledgehammer
i made this under the car easily👍
ALUMINUM = NO!!! For newer aluminum driveshafts this is a sure fire way to ruin the shaft & yoke, then it's a trip to the junk yard and the hunt for another driveshaft. This is also HIGHLY dubious for installing the new joints. Wailing on a precision yoke on a balanced shaft is not wise. For the older steel shafts it may be ok, (it's what we did as ignorant teenagers "back in the day") but anything newer than the early 80's is risking serious shaft and yoke damage.
Thanks for the aluminum mention, I have never worked with one and don't know how sensitive they are. I didn't however advise wailing on anything and I used a rather small hammer to tap the new ones in which I wouldn't exactly call dubious. Assuming the person doing the work doesn't know what they are doing, I would think this method or a press have an equal chance of tearing something up
Thank you! Was trying to get those fuckers out for like an hour and after trying it this way got em out in like 5 mins
Thanks for letting me know, Glad it worked!
What a hacker!!!
RED & TACKY!!!