having tuned and worked on solid lifter engines for decades the methods and regimes are quite simple. You have to have a scheduled maintenance model: check head torque on that schedule and then, check lash. It is really that simple. IF you decide to go with a solid valve train, then accept that you have to have a very well defined maintenance model, period.
I totally agree ....No Hollywood hype just Straightforward Honest information. Off subject, but..... if everyone were able to grasp how important it is to not Bullshit~ give wrong advice, or not be forthcoming with bad information, but with Andy's videos there a feeling of Honesty & Trust .....what more can a Hot Rodder/ enthusiasts ask for, Thank you Andy, I for one truly Appreciate the integrity you share ! Nice work,Mike
I've been running a COMP XR292R-10 in my street/strip 440 Mopar for seven years. It's a solid roller. So far zero problems. I use Smith Brothers 3/8 pushrods with Crane Gold Race rockers. When I ordered the cam, I called COMP for recommendations and went with what they recommended. My thought at the time was I didn't want to disturb my neighbors with a cam break in and I was worried about lifter/cam failure with a flat tappet cam. No regrets, the car runs great and so far every time I've checked the lash, it was only out .002 at most. Roller cams WORK!
Thanks man that encouraged me to go solid roller. I got afr enforcer heads and I'm quickly learning I can't go with a better then factory cast steel cam because the heads are to big for it and the pressure of the springs will wipe it out.
@@ronniewooddell721 Yup. When I built the engine my goal was not to have as much power as possible. I wanted good power but more importantly I wanted reliability and low maintenance and that's exactly what I got. The car weighed 3500# with a full fuel cell and me in it and it ran consistent low 11s @ 120 for years. Plus I only trailered it to the track once. All the other times, and there were many, I drove it to and from the tracks I raced at and had zero break downs. The only problem I ever had was some oil leaks and it turned out my crankcase ventilation was faulty. Once I took care of that, no more troubles. I sold the car last year and the guy who bought it is having a ball with it now. I have no regrets about going with a roller cam.
Ran a big solid roller in my 377 sbc and drove it all the time hundreds of miles a week. I Just check the lash every couple weeks most of the time it stayed in spec. I had Doug herbert cam and lifter's.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Thanks Andy.....You have explained what was a mystery to this numbers guy........I've been studying cam cards for years , and wondered why spreads from advertised duration , and duration at .050 inch were never the same or comparable.........I will watch this video again when I will have the time to write into my records all the fine details you laid out.......This lays the foundation of understanding ramp velocities , and aggressive rates of lift..................thanks......
I'm runnin' a .600" lift radical drag race profile solid roller on the street in a Gen 1 SBC (in my MGB-lol). I've got 3/8 push rods, Harland-Sharp roller rockers on big studs, stud girdle, good springs and it revs 8000+ easily (have about 3000mi on it, it's an aluminum rod engine also) and this winter it gets new rods&springs. I LOVE IT!
@@jjmohn9204 LOL, one too many 8000rpm shifts, broke a couple roller lifters/ wiped the cam a couple weeks ago, engines in the shop for complete rebuild (steel rods), might tame the engine a little and go with a hydraulic roller this time (no more 8000+ redline for me)
Thx sir! Good luck w/the rebuild. I've always wanted a superstock '69 Z-28 and the Lunati Mech Roller gets me that sound! Cam originally suggested to my by Ray Knight who had a 10 second 302W Falcon! Cheers!
I agree that more attention needs to be payed when it comes to valve springs. Very few people truly understand those actual requirements especially when considering street use. Resonant Frequency is also an understated thing in any application being it effects the life of all valve train components, sadly, most people dont know it even exists. I too am also an advocate for Smith Brothers Pushrods, an old racer here in my area turned me onto them years ago. They are known for high quality nearly indestructible pushrods and a quick turn around on custom orders. In my day if you had a splayed valve engine like a Cleveland, 385 series or a Big Block Chevy, Smith Brothers was the only way to go. Thank you for all the good content as always
Doctor Romex thanks for the kind words.. I cant say enough good things about Smith Brothers...Their customer service is great and have a super fast turn around.. Resonant Frequency is so understated and it holds the key to finding the proper spring for your application... Thank you for watching! Andy
Glad you bought this to our attention!! Most of us that have always ran hydraulics would have overlooked these critical things!! You are the best!! Thanks. RJ
I'm rallying around the family with a pocket full of screws. From my 2 piece valve covers. 😁 Those large bore lifters 1.00 plus and names like Crower and Jesel come to mind. In the interest of high rpm valvetrain survival, I'm looking at a different design pushrod. Small end for the lifter then expanding out to 0.750" up to where it has to pass through the head. Then as large as possible up to the rocker. With that diameter, I can reduce wall thickness. It will still have a far stiffer center section. This is where belt driven overhead cams shine. Less mass to fight against in controlling the valves. Weaker springs mean less HP robbing friction and compression resistance against the Cam trying to force it.
All of those points are very valid! Running a larger diameter lifter will pay huge dividends for longevity.. also not having too much valvespring is like walking a tight rope... You want a spring that can do the job effective NOT too much because you are robbing power.. Good post Kurt! Thanks for Watching and sharing Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage Andy, I absolutely love watching your channel. This is the real deal. Airflow is the key to the kingdom. It's what matters most in a motor. Everything else is simply there to support that. David Vizard is a Super Genius. It's amazing that he is sharing everything while he can so his knowledge and legacy will live on. I can't wait to see this motor Windsor Cleveland. I'm going to build one too using Trick Flow 225 Cleveland heads and late model 5.8 roller block. I'm thinking about a new edge mustang chassis with IRS. EVERYTHING but the heads is super cheap enough to make a serious monster of a track and drag car. I'm going to do a 180 degree headers with slip joints going under the pan. Cylinders 3/5 and 4/6 cross to make it have the same advantage AND SOUND of a flat plane crank without any of the vibration because of the long 180 degree delay between power pulses. I'll get 90 degree power pulses with perfect scavenging. Designed right, will get me near a 100hp on a 1000hp motor. Fingers crossed 🤞🏼⚔️
Excellent video. Check the lash every 500 to 1000 miles at minimum. If you're running the engine hard, check even more often. Quick release valve covers are a blessing if you're running a solid roller. I'll take old school solid roller over hydraulic any day. If you're going to build a race engine, dog gone it, build it!
Couldn’t agree more myself 👍🏼 Great Vid👌🏼🏁 Got Solid Roller in my Supercharged Cleveland & haven’t opened a Valve Cover in 10yrs since it’s 30 low 9sec passes 🤷🏼♂️ Adjust & set valve lash accordingly & always use the best top notch valve train gear 👌🏼🏁
Are you running the stock 4v or aftermarket heads? I have a '70 Cleveland 4v that I'm trying to figure out what to put it in, since I sold the Torino GT that it came in. Love those Clevelands.
Hi I love your channel. I worked for Jesel over 20 years. We sold solid rollers to all the top fuel teams with up to 50 runs on a sec. No failures. we sold solid roller lifters for NASCAR 10,000 RPMs three races mandatory no failures. all pro stock car I Jesel solid roller lifters no failures 10,500 RPMs 500 inch big block. Just saying
I e been running a lunati voodoo solid roller in my 383 stroker since 2015, around 40k miles I had quite a bit of rocker arm and valve tip wear, so I moved from scorpion, to comp ultra pro magnum xd rockers, and lash caps. It has about 60k on it now, still runs strong
Great video Andy, thanks enjoyed the explanation. I been running solid rollers on the street since 1998. Get the best lifter and keep your springs in spec. Just fired up the 409c. Stay tuned.
Well sir I'm not a Ford guy but if I were you'd be a good reference you seem very nice and informative an very easy to understand I liked this video Ray Stein
Thanks for Watching Ray... While I'm building a Ford, I cut my teeth on Mopars and have built some really cool Chevys.. I think every make brings something different to the table.. They all have their weaknesses... But that is why we do this stuff..to make them what they should be.. Andy
Im currently finishing my 68 chevelle interior it has an alternate buick gs 400 interior this was my mothers car that my dad had impounded which was used as a get a way car in a robbery it is an original big block auto with a 12 bolt though i have the engine an trans from it i put my race car engine an trans in it as my mom liked to go fast it currently has a 468 at over 560 hp on pump gas and its quick Ray Stein
subscribed, and hit the bell. First heard about your page through UTG, on how to tune tunnel ram carbs for the street. There is an incredible amount of misinformation on carbs and tunnel rams on the internet, and it's awesome to watch you easily lay all of it to rest. I have a 77 Nova with a stout 383 that I'm in the process of swapping to a solid roller with a tunnel ram and likely two 650's. I drive my cars quite a bit, and personally I think it's fun to drive stuff on the street that most people believe isn't streetable. Keep up what you're doing man, it's your videos that will keep this knowledge alive and relevant.
I'm glad you enjoy it.. That's why I put 660 center squirters on. Casper I had all kinds of people tell me those are the most un-streetable carbs you can get. So now I'm moving to Dominators with MIXED UP BOSS! Lol Thanks for watching Andy
HI Andy Mate your words of wisdom are spot on,you know a lot of older fellas frighten young dudes about solid and solid roller cams,when i was teenager,i was given advice about solid cams that you were adjusting the tappets every fortnight,so i stuck with hyd for a couple of years,then ventured into solids and then rollers and never looked back.I have allways used qualitly parts.Love you to do a vid on LSA,that is another myth that they say the wide LSA give more on top and more rpm,thats not what i found out
Thanks for the kind words... I learned that having the right parts is what makes or breaks the deal! It kills me when people say you need a 112 or 114 LSA... All you are doing is throwing a ton of torque away.... I've done Dyno tests with DV we had 3 different cams ground all with the same specs EXCEPT the LSA. 112, 110, and 108 on different engines one being my 4.6 2V and Everytime we made more power and torque with the tighter LSA .. that would make a great Video! Andy
@port nut man, that's impressive. 👍 . Yea, his concepts are unconventional for sure, but very effective . In fact, despite what everyone was telling me, Mike advised me to go with the single plane Vic JR and not the dual plane air gap on my 383.
Solid cam duration specifications are a small mine feild. Generally, SAE duration is the lash +.006 lift = seat to seat duration. Duration at .050" is the same as a Hyd. The lifter rise is .050" no matter what the lash / quietening ramp is.
Great timing on this video! I'm considering the switch from a Hyd roller cam to a solid roller in my 377" small block Chevy. Everyone said how far the Hyd roller has come so against my better judgement, I put the Hyd roller in it. It is absolutely out of rpm at 6100 and totally loses control of the valves at 6600.I like the low maintenance but I just don't think the Hyd roller allows me to see the gains I should be seeing with the 210cc intake ports on the Profiler heads. My car is a stick car. At about 620', the car is in 3rd gear and the 6000 rpm shift light is on. If I leave it in 3rd gear, it floats the valves. If I shift, the car does not accelerate again till past the line. Oh the life of a street strip 4 speed car. LOL
Yeah I believe a Solid Roller would really help you out! Because I have seen your situation so many times.. once the valvetrain goes away you are dropping HUGE Amounts of power! It's not uncommon to see 50+HP gain at the very upper rpm ranges sometimes even more.... Thanks for Watching! Andy
@@brentonk461 Agreed, it feels like it is just about to get nasty and pull super hard from 5500 to 6000 and then the bottom falls out. Current hyd is 238 246 @.050 with .548 lift on a 112 lsa. Thinking something mid 250ish at .050 low .600 lift would work well. The engine is only 10.6 to 1 compression and I run it on pump gas.
@@1320quick do you run power brakes ?? If not, I would strongly recommend considering David Vizards formula for selecting your next cam. Even though you have nice heads on there, a 112° lsa is way off point from his standards when in the context of making maximum Horsepower. Per Vizards math an LSA in the range of 108° would suit you best for maximum Torque and horsepower. But ,that gets tossed out the window if you need the vacuum for power brakes.
Im old school and used to working on four bangers with solid lifters push rods and hydrolic lifters, I like to set the valve lash hot and take the spark plug out and set the lash at TDC, but you can mess up if the cam has advance in it, so I always turn the crank in both directions, to see if the lash opens and double check everything including compression
Absolutely. Especially at .904 you can get quite aggressive and still run it on the street. A very lightweight package that can outperform most hydraulic roller setups. Needs less pushrod and less spring package too!
@@CharlieBrown-pb9xn raced the hell out of solid flat tappet cams in the 70s and early 80s with stock pushrods and rockers and Z28 valve springs turned those 327s and 355s 7000 rpms lap after lap on 1/4 mile dirt tracks they were reliable as hell the early sixties Corvette 327s would wind 7200 all day long with a factory solid cam and basically stock valve train other than a slightly better spring
I built a 302 engine for my street driven 68 camaro, a 4 speed car . I had a isky roller in it . I never had any problems with the cam or lifters . Roller rockers. Joe Mar girdle ect . The thing I liked was being able to change the lash some to change how the engine responds . . That was a long time ago . I use to buzz it up to 7800 pretty often. About the limit of my dirty track prepped bottom end. As far a limiter yea I run them in my harley with SS lifters . That was a learning experience. Thanks for your videos ..
Right on excellent great advice, couldn’t agree more. One thing you forgot is that crower makes an oversized lifter that is great for street engines. If I am correct it is .940 dia and stock SBF is .875. Not that hard to bore out lifter bores and go larger.
Thanks Mark, you bring up a great point! If it is a option for you.. It is ALWAYS better to increase the lifter diameter if the engine will allow you to do so... Andy
The more i play with david’s TMC program the more I think I need the hyd roller. I plan to go with the 4.1 stroke and the engine never need turn above 6k. I want all the torque on the bottom of my RPM range. If you were me would you use a HYD cam? This engine must be street friendly
Thank Andy. What's the chance of you and Mr Vizard doing a video on the many types of valve springs that are now available to us. Mainly straight vs beehive vs tapered.
I have a solid roller CCAMS 236 / 254 .050 and duration 273 / 292 .586 / .598 ,i tought 7300 rpm 350 sb chevy , this cam is all out racing or street racing ? can you tell me your opinión ?
Thank you for the information, I’m running a solid roller lifter on a hydraulic roller cam, I researched it and set the lash at 4.000. I wanted to use a hydraulic roller cam cause of the less aggressive lobe rams,
It most assuredly is about more than just the spring pressure. I have built a BB Chevy that achieved another 1,000rpm's over the pre rebuild capabilities of the engine with just a camshaft, lifter and rocker arm upgrade. Additionally all new exhaust valves and a 3 angle grind were added to the mix but the springs all checked out to be essentially within spec. So with a different lobe profile but with the springs already on the heads the new camshaft with .510" lift on all valves gave me approx. 15% more rpm range. Of course the springs were being compressed more with the higher lift but having checked for possible coil bind and finding none all looked good. The same for the stud mount rockers with adequate slot length the old adage once again held true : Attention to detail and clean conditions during engine assembly are vital ingredients. Once in service, camshaft break in and service frequency, ie oil changes, lash adj. are musts.
"Just a camshaft, lifter and rocker arm upgrade", Ya, of course it can pick up rpm, that's the whole damn valvetrain. The interesting thing is when you pick up 500-800 rpm just by replacing springs OR lifters. Way too many crappy lifters out there and poorly matched springs.
Well explained ! I know there’s a lot of theory’s out there but I appreciate the way you explained it ! And reasons why you feel the way you do ! Valuable information for sure ! Take care Andy
I fabricated a lifter rev kit for a solid roller camshaft on a Cad 500. Competition Products has a selection. Purpose for the rev kit is to keep the rollers on the lobes to prevent the pounding of the roller and bearings. Its been 6 years since the rev kit was installed. Recent inspection showed no signs of damage or wear. Jones Cams grinds solid roller cams for street use. Look out Big Cadoo!
I doing a 466 CI for my '70 Torino Cobra drag pack car. I'm going to be mostly going to car shows and a little bit of track time, but being that it was an original 429 SCJ motor, I felt that I had to keep it a solid lifter cam. I contacted Oregon Cams and talked to them and they are doing a custom grind that will fit my needs. I made a mistake at first buying the lifters. I bought Howards Cams solid lifters sport max, but it had a warning about using them for the street, so then I purchased their Street Max solid rollers. I have Comp Cams Ultra Pro roller rockers, I was afraid of going with any aluminum ones. I haven't bought the push rods, as I need to figure out my length, but thanks for the advice about the wall thickness. As you have pointed out, I will have to consult with Oregon Cams, as to which springs to go with, as only thinking about the lift. Hopefully once this is all done it will pay off. I do understand that I will have to check the lash, but since it's not a daily driver, I shouldn't have to check it too often because of not putting on many miles. Thanks for all of the good advice!
Had no idea about the duration being measured differently. Good to know. Building a sbf 427 right now. Going to stay HR. Having a cam built by Oregon Cam Grinders.
Comp cams Xr292r street solid roller tight lash and Isky bushed lifters and comp cams ultra pro magnum rockers...etc. 3k lb 68 mustang th400, 4k stall, 410 gears, all forged steel parts, revs to 7200rpm. Car is a fcking monster. Had 7 years and 4600 miles on motor. Check lash once a year. Car pulls like its on nitrous boost together, and it makes better power and is faster on E85 with efi. Solid roller only way to go cause i always spin over 7k rpm.
Solid roller opening ramp angle is more aggressive than a hydraulic, that’s the main reason for higher RPM capability with a solid cam profile. Usually solid cams will have a lower base circle to get a more aggressive opening and closing ramp angle
You should use a tight lash street solid roller. Check lash at least once a year. I runs a comp cams xr292r street solid roller in my 438windsor. Spins like a swiss watch all the way to 7200rpm.. Fuel injected 68 mustang
You can run solid lifters on a hydraulic cam. My concern with running hydraulic lifters near maximum preload is lifter pumpup. I much prefer running hydraulic lifters near minimum preload.
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage I especially like the tip about keeping tabs on the lash to catch any of the warning signs of a lifter potentially going away- catch it before a big problem happens
Good information. I’m a 300 in- line 6 guy just because I like being different/difficult. I had been thinking about a non roller solid cam. But since I’m only spinning 5000-5500. I probably wouldn’t see an advantage?
I run a Cam Motion low lash roller in my 406 SBC on the street and road course track days in a 240Z. I see they don't do anything but LS, LT and Hemi stuff now. I started with regular Isky rollers, but switched to the bushed lifters to not have to worry about the needle bearings. Anyway, the Low Lash stuff is how Cam Motion makes solid rollers live on the street.
This guy is the first Engine Builder I've ever heard mention anything about Physics or better yet the mention of Resonant Frequencys. I have no doubt that the mechanically inclined masses still believe in the fairy tale of Tetraethyllead or TEL being used as a valve seat non-stick. False, TEL is an organolead compound that was originally added to Gasoline as an anti-knock Octane builder first used by the General Motors Corporation in 1921 allowing an increase to vehicle compression ratios. I cannot fill in all the blank spaces, but I will hint on a direction. Nicola Tesla inventer of the Electric Motor was a knowledgeable individual, but his Motors were cast of solid iron bodies. They were prone to overheating issues. Today's Motors are not solid cast, but have been redesigned of a laminated iron design that eliminated overheating. There is much to learn. As this builder has said, "frequentcys!" Great video, thank you.
I have run my fair share of solid rollers on the street. Lobe profile is one of the most important things, but there is another thing to consider as well. Depending on the head design, spray bars for the springs are a must with high lift. If oil doesn't pool at the base of every valve spring (by head design), you should run sprayers to cool the springs down. I ran marine solid roller cams in BB Chevys, well over 300 advertised duration, about 800 lift, rev kit, and the entire valve train survived street use for years. Before anyone says the cam was too big, it had an 8 inch stall, with 5:86 rear gears. It was set up for 1/8 mile.
That is a great valid point as well... Most people don't think of Oil as a coolant.. BUT it is.. heat kills springs.. the temp spikes that occur when a spring running on the ragged edge is unreal.. Andy
I personally think if you run a solid roller cam shaft at mid to lower RPMs most of the time it will probably be fine , I do believe that they take most of the severe beating at higher RPM and it's street use if you keep the RPM relatively low for normal cruising solid roller cam shaft can last a long time problem is when the roller needles do starting to come apart it's likely to kill the entire engine sadly
Lots of bull here. Every 273 commando Chrysler made had a solid lifer cam And I do not recall ever adjusting the lash on mine And it saw 7500 to 8,000 rpm all the time.
REMEMBER TO HIT THE LIKE BUTTON, FELLAS! IT DON'T COST YOU NOTHIN'! I doubt anyone else commented, but a neatly-ironed clean shirt really added to his presentation. On another note: you can allay valve train stress by using a gentler opening and shutting profile on the cam, which sacrifices lower-end or higher-end power, one of the two, in order to use longer duration to more-gently open and shut the valves. Your fuel mileage may not thank you, but your valvetrain and springs will most definitely thank you!
What about reliability? I'm hearing from a lot of people who experienced hydraulic roller lifter failure and subsequent engine disasters. Boat racers are switching to solid roller lifters for this reason.
Colorado, I have been hearing this for a while.. Just my two cents I think in a Boat app.. I would pick the solid anyways... because of the sustained high rpms! I could see where oil control could wreak havoc on a valvetrain. Andy
@@badgerbait8351 Yes the solid roller lifters are lighter than their Hyd. counterparts.. this helps in the area of less stress but the main benefit is being able to turn the engine higher in the rpm range without having lifter collapse as you would with the Hyd. lifter... Thanks for watching! Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage I have heard many horror stories back over the decades including distributor/oil pump drive failures including bronze gear compatibility issues. Attention to detail does not exempt anyone from issues or failures. You are hot rodding an engine and unbelievable issues and incompatible parts can be the norm but when all works well together amazing results can ensue.
Very informative and in a compact video, I liked and subscribed! I'm trying to set up a sbc 383 with a solid roller for the first time and can use every bit of knowledge available. Nice job
@@burtmoore2101 I put a set of AFR 227cc on my 383 with a solid roller. I switched from an rpm air gap to a high rise, I think I'll switch back but other than that it runs great. I'll have it dynoed soon. Sbc 383 Flat top 10:1 AFR 227cc Scorpion shaft rockers 1.5 Billet solid roller 702 lift 254/254 duration Holley exflow efi and holley dual sync distributor. All forged internals. 2004r transmission 10in non lockup converter deep oil pan
Andy ,I have a solid roller CCAMS 236 / 254 .050 and duration 273 / 292 .586 / .598 ,i tought 7300 rpm 350 sb chevy , this cam is all out racing or street racing ? can you tell me your opinión ?
Just what I needed to see I was wondering about the solid roller I have would be OK on the street I have a Howard's hydraulic roller in my big block it's a 427 60 over my cam I'd 235x241@50 616 lift I want to go with the comp cams xr292r it's 254x260@50 666 lift I was wanting more rpm and a Lil more hp the cam is good from 3100 to 7200 and I don't need to bring this motor any higher then 7000. I had a lunati cam that was good in the same power rang and the car flew on the street also I'm going to be driving the car mostly on the weekend I hope this will be safe.rick427
It's be cool to see the milage someone can get out of a big block with the right setup... everyone can build horsepower...but effenciey and horsepower would show who knows what
That is exactly what I did with my 393w .. was able to get 16mpg around town with a solid roller 600hp deal .. with 4.30 gears out back... It can be done! Thanks for Watching you can see that video on my channel as well ... Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage sweet! A guy I know said he knew someone that went into GM at one time and there sat on the shelf carburetors that said 25 to 100 miles to the gallon...then another guy that happen to get a dodge truck in our town in the late 70's maybe early 80s not quite sure... and he thought the gas gauge was broke...come to find out Chrylser came looking for that truck. It some how slipped by. Yup as we all know I'm sure big business stopped what should have been.
I have a Ford 427 in my performance street Mustang. Currently running a .600 lift hydraulic cam, Howard hydraulic roller lifters and Jesel shaft 1.6 rockers. My valve springs are AFR . 650 lift units. Today a friend asked and suggested why i wasn't running solid roller lifters? I didn't think solid lifters were something i could run on the street for 100k miles. I don't want to exceed the OEM 6500 redline. So, my questions are: How often does the lash need to be checked for a daily, street performance engine that will only see 6500 rpm max? Can i continue to use my hydraulic roller cam or should i get a solid roller cam similar to my hydraulic cam? Can i continue to use my .650 valve springs? Do solid roller lifters require lifter oil restriction in the block? Thanks in advance
having tuned and worked on solid lifter engines for decades the methods and regimes are quite simple. You have to have a scheduled maintenance model: check head torque on that schedule and then, check lash. It is really that simple. IF you decide to go with a solid valve train, then accept that you have to have a very well defined maintenance model, period.
Facts.
I to build many solid roller cams and CUMMINS HAS BEEN DOIN IT FOREVER. as well as almost all diesels
I had a solid cam before how much different is solid roller maintenance I checked my car twice a year
@@michaelkeyes3856 Which diesels use roller cams? All the 5.9s I've worked on use solid flat tappets.
There’s a lot of content there. You’re videos are well done, you have a great delivery, and are very easy to listen to and understand, I enjoy them.
Thanks for the kind words James... Thanks for watching!
Andy
I totally agree ....No Hollywood hype just Straightforward Honest information.
Off subject, but..... if everyone were able to grasp how important it is to not Bullshit~ give wrong advice, or not be forthcoming with bad information, but with Andy's videos there a feeling of Honesty & Trust .....what more can a Hot Rodder/ enthusiasts ask for, Thank you Andy, I for one truly Appreciate the integrity you share ! Nice work,Mike
I've been running a COMP XR292R-10 in my street/strip 440 Mopar for seven years. It's a solid roller. So far zero problems. I use Smith Brothers 3/8 pushrods with Crane Gold Race rockers. When I ordered the cam, I called COMP for recommendations and went with what they recommended. My thought at the time was I didn't want to disturb my neighbors with a cam break in and I was worried about lifter/cam failure with a flat tappet cam. No regrets, the car runs great and so far every time I've checked the lash, it was only out .002 at most. Roller cams WORK!
Yes they do! Thanks for watching...
Andy
Thanks man that encouraged me to go solid roller. I got afr enforcer heads and I'm quickly learning I can't go with a better then factory cast steel cam because the heads are to big for it and the pressure of the springs will wipe it out.
I will say one thing sir. you're a good ass neighbor! And you made the right choice I think roller cams are the way to go!
@@ronniewooddell721 Yup. When I built the engine my goal was not to have as much power as possible. I wanted good power but more importantly I wanted reliability and low maintenance and that's exactly what I got. The car weighed 3500# with a full fuel cell and me in it and it ran consistent low 11s @ 120 for years. Plus I only trailered it to the track once. All the other times, and there were many, I drove it to and from the tracks I raced at and had zero break downs. The only problem I ever had was some oil leaks and it turned out my crankcase ventilation was faulty. Once I took care of that, no more troubles. I sold the car last year and the guy who bought it is having a ball with it now. I have no regrets about going with a roller cam.
Finally, someone that knows what they are talking about and states in terms easy to understand, thank-you for the content!
Ran a big solid roller in my 377 sbc and drove it all the time hundreds of miles a week. I Just check the lash every couple weeks most of the time it stayed in spec. I had Doug herbert cam and lifter's.
That is the key.. just checking the lash to make things are staying put.. it's a peace of mind thing... Thanks for Watching!
Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage it stays in place right up until it doesnt, its nice to know right when it does
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Thanks Andy.....You have explained what was a mystery to this numbers guy........I've been studying cam cards for years , and wondered why spreads from advertised duration , and duration at .050 inch were never the same or comparable.........I will watch this video again when I will have the time to write into my records all the fine details you laid out.......This lays the foundation of understanding ramp velocities , and aggressive rates of lift..................thanks......
I'm glad you enjoyed it
Thomas! Thanks for watching
Andy
I'm runnin' a .600" lift radical drag race profile solid roller on the street in a Gen 1 SBC (in my MGB-lol). I've got 3/8 push rods, Harland-Sharp roller rockers on big studs, stud girdle, good springs and it revs 8000+ easily (have about 3000mi on it, it's an aluminum rod engine also) and this winter it gets new rods&springs. I LOVE IT!
Same setup as MGB Chuck but Crowerods instead of aluminum ruclips.net/video/3UVoUs90CWo/видео.html
@@jjmohn9204 LOL, one too many 8000rpm shifts, broke a couple roller lifters/ wiped the cam a couple weeks ago, engines in the shop for complete rebuild (steel rods), might tame the engine a little and go with a hydraulic roller this time (no more 8000+ redline for me)
@@jjmohn9204 your SBF sounds wicked
Thx sir! Good luck w/the rebuild. I've always wanted a superstock '69 Z-28 and the Lunati Mech Roller gets me that sound! Cam originally suggested to my by Ray Knight who had a 10 second 302W Falcon! Cheers!
@@jjmohn9204 you can hear mine @ 1964 SBC MGB aggressive idle or with new paint, 2 more mufflers @ 1964 SBC MGB refresh (weak idling videos) on YT
I agree that more attention needs to be payed when it comes to valve springs. Very few people truly understand those actual requirements especially when considering street use. Resonant Frequency is also an understated thing in any application being it effects the life of all valve train components, sadly, most people dont know it even exists. I too am also an advocate for Smith Brothers Pushrods, an old racer here in my area turned me onto them years ago. They are known for high quality nearly indestructible pushrods and a quick turn around on custom orders. In my day if you had a splayed valve engine like a Cleveland, 385 series or a Big Block Chevy, Smith Brothers was the only way to go. Thank you for all the good content as always
Doctor Romex thanks for the kind words.. I cant say enough good things about Smith Brothers...Their customer service is great and have a super fast turn around.. Resonant Frequency is so understated and it holds the key to finding the proper spring for your application... Thank you for watching!
Andy
How do you figure out what springs match the RF for your cam? I have to check out Smith Brothers for my pushrods.
How are you finding the correct resonant frequency?
Glad you bought this to our attention!! Most of us that have always ran hydraulics would have overlooked these critical things!! You are the best!! Thanks. RJ
Telling it to ya straight !.... I was young and knew it all back years ago until I threw 3 pushrods thru the covers,...had to face myself that day
Yeah I've been there and had my day too...
Andy
I'm rallying around the family with a pocket full of screws. From my 2 piece valve covers. 😁 Those large bore lifters 1.00 plus and names like Crower and Jesel come to mind.
In the interest of high rpm valvetrain survival, I'm looking at a different design pushrod. Small end for the lifter then expanding out to 0.750" up to where it has to pass through the head. Then as large as possible up to the rocker. With that diameter, I can reduce wall thickness. It will still have a far stiffer center section. This is where belt driven overhead cams shine. Less mass to fight against in controlling the valves. Weaker springs mean less HP robbing friction and compression resistance against the Cam trying to force it.
All of those points are very valid! Running a larger diameter lifter will pay huge dividends for longevity.. also not having too much valvespring is like walking a tight rope... You want a spring that can do the job effective NOT too much because you are robbing power..
Good post Kurt! Thanks for Watching and sharing
Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage Andy, I absolutely love watching your channel. This is the real deal. Airflow is the key to the kingdom. It's what matters most in a motor. Everything else is simply there to support that. David Vizard is a Super Genius. It's amazing that he is sharing everything while he can so his knowledge and legacy will live on.
I can't wait to see this motor Windsor Cleveland. I'm going to build one too using Trick Flow 225 Cleveland heads and late model 5.8 roller block. I'm thinking about a new edge mustang chassis with IRS. EVERYTHING but the heads is super cheap enough to make a serious monster of a track and drag car. I'm going to do a 180 degree headers with slip joints going under the pan. Cylinders 3/5 and 4/6 cross to make it have the same advantage AND SOUND of a flat plane crank without any of the vibration because of the long 180 degree delay between power pulses. I'll get 90 degree power pulses with perfect scavenging. Designed right, will get me near a 100hp on a 1000hp motor. Fingers crossed 🤞🏼⚔️
Thank you Kurt! That sounds like a amazing project! All of the small things add up to be Big gains!
Andy
A little bit of rage going on?against your machine? Lol
@@johnsheetz6639 lol 🤣 yeah 👍🏼
Excellent video. Check the lash every 500 to 1000 miles at minimum. If you're running the engine hard, check even more often. Quick release valve covers are a blessing if you're running a solid roller. I'll take old school solid roller over hydraulic any day. If you're going to build a race engine, dog gone it, build it!
Couldn’t agree more myself 👍🏼 Great Vid👌🏼🏁
Got Solid Roller in my Supercharged Cleveland & haven’t opened a Valve Cover in 10yrs since it’s 30 low 9sec passes 🤷🏼♂️
Adjust & set valve lash accordingly & always use the best top notch valve train gear 👌🏼🏁
Are you running the stock 4v or aftermarket heads? I have a '70 Cleveland 4v that I'm trying to figure out what to put it in, since I sold the Torino GT that it came in. Love those Clevelands.
@@jglayden aftermarket CHI “4V” alloys
Quite a bit involved with switching to solid roller. Thanks for the info.
Yes it is... Thanks for watching!
Andy
Hi I love your channel. I worked for Jesel over 20 years. We sold solid rollers to all the top fuel teams with up to 50 runs on a sec. No failures. we sold solid roller lifters for NASCAR 10,000 RPMs three races mandatory no failures. all pro stock car I Jesel solid roller lifters no failures 10,500 RPMs 500 inch big block. Just saying
Thanks for the kind words Ray! I absolutely love Jesel products.. I have had great success with Jesel products throughout the years!
You touched on duration specs varying from one MFG to another, this is why looking at the .050" spec is much more informative
I e been running a lunati voodoo solid roller in my 383 stroker since 2015, around 40k miles I had quite a bit of rocker arm and valve tip wear, so I moved from scorpion, to comp ultra pro magnum xd rockers, and lash caps. It has about 60k on it now, still runs strong
Yeah lash caps help alot in my experience... Both of those moves were very good ones! Thanks for Watching!
Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage I use a jewelers loop to inspect the lash caps, when I lash, I have found several cracks that way
@@drivinwithdrew7676 that's a good tip!
Thats awesome. 60k miles on a street solid roller cam. Comp ultra pro magnum rockers are the best
Great video Andy, thanks enjoyed the explanation. I been running solid rollers on the street since 1998. Get the best lifter and keep your springs in spec. Just fired up the 409c. Stay tuned.
Thanks Brother... I can't wait to see it in action!
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage I will post a video of her on the run stand, surprised me. Stay tuned.
Very well spoken, Truly appreciate your Honest and straightforward review & opinion. I agree with you Andy, Regards,Mike Hall Racing
Thanks Mike! I appreciate the kind words... Thanks for watching
Andy
Well sir I'm not a Ford guy but if I were you'd be a good reference you seem very nice and informative an very easy to understand I liked this video Ray Stein
Thanks for Watching Ray... While I'm building a Ford, I cut my teeth on Mopars and have built some really cool Chevys.. I think every make brings something different to the table.. They all have their weaknesses... But that is why we do this stuff..to make them what they should be..
Andy
Im currently finishing my 68 chevelle interior it has an alternate buick gs 400 interior this was my mothers car that my dad had impounded which was used as a get a way car in a robbery it is an original big block auto with a 12 bolt though i have the engine an trans from it i put my race car engine an trans in it as my mom liked to go fast it currently has a 468 at over 560 hp on pump gas and its quick Ray Stein
@@raystein4457 Ray that is an awesome story! I LOVE Chevelle's... That is going to be a sweet ride!
Andy
subscribed, and hit the bell. First heard about your page through UTG, on how to tune tunnel ram carbs for the street. There is an incredible amount of misinformation on carbs and tunnel rams on the internet, and it's awesome to watch you easily lay all of it to rest. I have a 77 Nova with a stout 383 that I'm in the process of swapping to a solid roller with a tunnel ram and likely two 650's. I drive my cars quite a bit, and personally I think it's fun to drive stuff on the street that most people believe isn't streetable. Keep up what you're doing man, it's your videos that will keep this knowledge alive and relevant.
I'm glad you enjoy it.. That's why I put 660 center squirters on. Casper I had all kinds of people tell me those are the most un-streetable carbs you can get. So now I'm moving to Dominators with MIXED UP BOSS! Lol
Thanks for watching
Andy
HI Andy Mate your words of wisdom are spot on,you know a lot of older fellas frighten young dudes about solid and solid roller cams,when i was teenager,i was given advice about solid cams that you were adjusting the tappets every fortnight,so i stuck with hyd for a couple of years,then ventured into solids and then rollers and never looked back.I have allways used qualitly parts.Love you to do a vid on LSA,that is another myth that they say the wide LSA give more on top and more rpm,thats not what i found out
Thanks for the kind words... I learned that having the right parts is what makes or breaks the deal! It kills me when people say you need a 112 or 114 LSA... All you are doing is throwing a ton of torque away.... I've done Dyno tests with DV we had 3 different cams ground all with the same specs EXCEPT the LSA. 112, 110, and 108 on different engines one being my 4.6 2V and Everytime we made more power and torque with the tighter LSA .. that would make a great Video!
Andy
Very good video good information brings back the days when guys are putting BB in their hydraulic lifters to make them partly so solid
Thanks for Watching Paul!
Excellent info once more. Thanks Andy
Cheers
Thank you for watching Franc Furian!
Andy
Mike Jones Hydraulic roller cam in my 383 SBC. Love everything about it. Pulls to 6500 rpm like a missile.👍
Mike Jones cams are good! David Vizard and I have used his stuff for years...
@@UnityMotorSportsGarageawesome. 👍
@port nut man, that's impressive. 👍 . Yea, his concepts are unconventional for sure, but very effective . In fact, despite what everyone was telling me, Mike advised me to go with the single plane Vic JR and not the dual plane air gap on my 383.
Jones does great work! DV and I have used his cams through the years and DV is good friends with him..
Andy
Thanks Andy! Exactly the info I was after.
I'm glad you liked it .. Thanks for Watching
Andy
Got my stuff at herbert performance .I did on a motor I built 20 yrs ago too.they got the good stuff
Solid cam duration specifications are a small mine feild. Generally, SAE duration is the lash +.006 lift = seat to seat duration. Duration at .050" is the same as a Hyd. The lifter rise is .050" no matter what the lash / quietening ramp is.
Great timing on this video! I'm considering the switch from a Hyd roller cam to a solid roller in my 377" small block Chevy. Everyone said how far the Hyd roller has come so against my better judgement, I put the Hyd roller in it. It is absolutely out of rpm at 6100 and totally loses control of the valves at 6600.I like the low maintenance but I just don't think the Hyd roller allows me to see the gains I should be seeing with the 210cc intake ports on the Profiler heads. My car is a stick car. At about 620', the car is in 3rd gear and the 6000 rpm shift light is on. If I leave it in 3rd gear, it floats the valves. If I shift, the car does not accelerate again till past the line. Oh the life of a street strip 4 speed car. LOL
Yeah I believe a Solid Roller would really help you out! Because I have seen your situation so many times.. once the valvetrain goes away you are dropping HUGE Amounts of power! It's not uncommon to see 50+HP gain at the very upper rpm ranges sometimes even more....
Thanks for Watching!
Andy
You're about a thousand Revs short of your Small Block chev combination is capable of.
@@brentonk461 I agree!
@@brentonk461 Agreed, it feels like it is just about to get nasty and pull super hard from 5500 to 6000 and then the bottom falls out. Current hyd is 238 246 @.050 with .548 lift on a 112 lsa. Thinking something mid 250ish at .050 low .600 lift would work well. The engine is only 10.6 to 1 compression and I run it on pump gas.
@@1320quick do you run power brakes ?? If not, I would strongly recommend considering David Vizards formula for selecting your next cam. Even though you have nice heads on there, a 112° lsa is way off point from his standards when in the context of making maximum Horsepower. Per Vizards math an LSA in the range of 108° would suit you best for maximum Torque and horsepower. But ,that gets tossed out the window if you need the vacuum for power brakes.
Im old school and used to working on four bangers with solid lifters push rods and hydrolic lifters, I like to set the valve lash hot and take the spark plug out and set the lash at TDC, but you can mess up if the cam has advance in it, so I always turn the crank in both directions, to see if the lash opens and double check everything including compression
I'm keeping my hydraulic roller camshaft!💯
@DaveCaresForYou my 496 make max power around 6,000 rpms, but I usually never take it over 5,500.
@DaveCaresForYou MIXED UP BOSS will make peak power around 7100-7200 rpm so I will probably shift it at 7500 rpm
Andy
Yeah a Hyd roller is definitely the best choice for what you are doing
Me 2. I'm too old for piano tuning lol
Solid flat tappet is a good choice
Absolutely. Especially at .904 you can get quite aggressive and still run it on the street. A very lightweight package that can outperform most hydraulic roller setups. Needs less pushrod and less spring package too!
@@CarsandCats super reliable on a ford and dodge. Sbc not so much
@@CharlieBrown-pb9xn raced the hell out of solid flat tappet cams in the 70s and early 80s with stock pushrods and rockers and Z28 valve springs turned those 327s and 355s 7000 rpms lap after lap on 1/4 mile dirt tracks they were reliable as hell the early sixties Corvette 327s would wind 7200 all day long with a factory solid cam and basically stock valve train other than a slightly better spring
I built a 302 engine for my street driven 68 camaro, a 4 speed car . I had a isky roller in it . I never had any problems with the cam or lifters . Roller rockers. Joe Mar girdle ect . The thing I liked was being able to change the lash some to change how the engine responds . . That was a long time ago . I use to buzz it up to 7800 pretty often. About the limit of my dirty track prepped bottom end. As far a limiter yea I run them in my harley with SS lifters . That was a learning experience. Thanks for your videos ..
Right on excellent great advice, couldn’t agree more. One thing you forgot is that crower makes an oversized lifter that is great for street engines. If I am correct it is .940 dia and stock SBF is .875. Not that hard to bore out lifter bores and go larger.
Thanks Mark, you bring up a great point! If it is a option for you.. It is ALWAYS better to increase the lifter diameter if the engine will allow you to do so...
Andy
The more i play with david’s TMC program the more I think I need the hyd roller. I plan to go with the 4.1 stroke and the engine never need turn above 6k. I want all the torque on the bottom of my RPM range. If you were me would you use a HYD cam? This engine must be street friendly
@@markcarter78 yeah Mark a good Hyd roller would do great in your application... That would be my choice
Andy
Have 383 chevy with comp hydro roller never turns over 6200 rpm and runs like a champ. It's a cruise truck and great fun. Great review tbanks
Always learn something w your vids Andy. Thanks for the great content!
No thank you for watching! I will keep them coming...
Andy
Thank Andy. What's the chance of you and Mr Vizard doing a video on the many types of valve springs that are now available to us. Mainly straight vs beehive vs tapered.
David has a video on his channel about valve springs.. Its good stuff. Thanks for watching,
Andy
That was a SOLID video.... Hahha
That was a solid comment 😎
Baby-Shark GTO That was a solid reply.
I have a solid roller CCAMS 236 / 254 .050 and duration 273 / 292 .586 / .598 ,i tought 7300 rpm 350 sb chevy , this cam is all out racing or street racing ? can you tell me your opinión ?
Very uplifting info.
Enjoyed the video. Learned a lot to think about. Thanks for the tips. Ronnie.
Ronnie I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for Watching
Andy
This video was informational enough for me to subscribe! Thanks man
Thanks Peter for the kind words! Glad to have you, thanks for Watching
Andy
Thank you for the information, I’m running a solid roller lifter on a hydraulic roller cam, I researched it and set the lash at 4.000. I wanted to use a hydraulic roller cam cause of the less aggressive lobe rams,
That's one way of doing it. There's also the more modern tight lash cams like the Lunati TLR cams.
You mean your set your last at .004
@@pauljanssen2624 yes, .004 sorry about that
It most assuredly is about more than just the spring pressure. I have built a BB Chevy that achieved another 1,000rpm's over the pre rebuild capabilities of the engine with just a camshaft, lifter and rocker arm upgrade. Additionally all new exhaust valves and a 3 angle grind were added to the mix but the springs all checked out to be essentially within spec. So with a different lobe profile but with the springs already on the heads the new camshaft with .510" lift on all valves gave me approx. 15% more rpm range. Of course the springs were being compressed more with the higher lift but having checked for possible coil bind and finding none all looked good. The same for the stud mount rockers with adequate slot length the old adage once again held true : Attention to detail and clean conditions during engine assembly are vital ingredients. Once in service, camshaft break in and service frequency, ie oil changes, lash adj. are musts.
Good stuff!
A lot of that has to do with ramp speed acceleration and deceleration
"Just a camshaft, lifter and rocker arm upgrade", Ya, of course it can pick up rpm, that's the whole damn valvetrain.
The interesting thing is when you pick up 500-800 rpm just by replacing springs OR lifters. Way too many crappy lifters out there and poorly matched springs.
very good info Andy I always find your videos the best way to build my motors you and David Visard are the best engineers on u tube Rip bro
I ran solid lifters in my Chevy 235 engine put a 261 cam in it A little noisy at first fire but quiet up as it warms up, of course
Well explained ! I know there’s a lot of theory’s out there but I appreciate the way you explained it ! And reasons why you feel the way you do ! Valuable information for sure ! Take care Andy
Thank you Tony! For the kinds words and watching...
Andy
thanks andy i watch you and vizard alot im getting ready to do a solid roller for the frist time
I'll apreciate your answer
I fabricated a lifter rev kit for a solid roller camshaft on a Cad 500. Competition Products has a selection. Purpose for the rev kit is to keep the rollers on the lobes to prevent the pounding of the roller and bearings. Its been 6 years since the rev kit was installed. Recent inspection showed no signs of damage or wear. Jones Cams grinds solid roller cams for street use. Look out Big Cadoo!
Thanks good video keep up the work 👍
Thank you for the encouragement!
Andy
Awesome information 💁♀️ 👏 👌
I'm glad you liked it!
Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage yes sir, and reading all the comments helps to understand some of the mysteries.
Thanks Andy I have a goal 650 horse 383 pump gas
Thanks, thinking about going through my Mustang engines. Both were not stock but I was planning on going bigger next go around.
Anytime! Thanks for Watching
Andy
Awesome vid!! Trying to decide on cam for my 289. Thanks from NC
Great video.Been looking for a video with details on this issue with details.
I doing a 466 CI for my '70 Torino Cobra drag pack car. I'm going to be mostly going to car shows and a little bit of track time, but being that it was an original 429 SCJ motor, I felt that I had to keep it a solid lifter cam. I contacted Oregon Cams and talked to them and they are doing a custom grind that will fit my needs. I made a mistake at first buying the lifters. I bought Howards Cams solid lifters sport max, but it had a warning about using them for the street, so then I purchased their Street Max solid rollers. I have Comp Cams Ultra Pro roller rockers, I was afraid of going with any aluminum ones. I haven't bought the push rods, as I need to figure out my length, but thanks for the advice about the wall thickness. As you have pointed out, I will have to consult with Oregon Cams, as to which springs to go with, as only thinking about the lift. Hopefully once this is all done it will pay off. I do understand that I will have to check the lash, but since it's not a daily driver, I shouldn't have to check it too often because of not putting on many miles. Thanks for all of the good advice!
I use Smith Brothers all the time, they are 30 minutes away. Sweet.
That is awesome!
Andy
Had no idea about the duration being measured differently. Good to know.
Building a sbf 427 right now.
Going to stay HR. Having a cam built by Oregon Cam Grinders.
Great video. Very informative, thank you
Thanks for Watching Bryan... Glad you liked it
Andy
Great info. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Andy
Comp cams Xr292r street solid roller tight lash and Isky bushed lifters and comp cams ultra pro magnum rockers...etc. 3k lb 68 mustang th400, 4k stall, 410 gears, all forged steel parts, revs to 7200rpm. Car is a fcking monster. Had 7 years and 4600 miles on motor. Check lash once a year. Car pulls like its on nitrous boost together, and it makes better power and is faster on E85 with efi. Solid roller only way to go cause i always spin over 7k rpm.
Good Stuff!!!!! Keep up the good work!!!!!
Thanks for Watching!
Andy
Solid roller opening ramp angle is more aggressive than a hydraulic, that’s the main reason for higher RPM capability with a solid cam profile. Usually solid cams will have a lower base circle to get a more aggressive opening and closing ramp angle
Good knowledge and presentation makes a good video ...thanks brudda mon!
Can you make a video about using solid lifters on a hydraulic cam?
GREAT VIDEO ANDY THANK YOU
Thanks for Watching and I'm glad you enjoyed it
Andy
You should use a tight lash street solid roller. Check lash at least once a year. I runs a comp cams xr292r street solid roller in my 438windsor. Spins like a swiss watch all the way to 7200rpm.. Fuel injected 68 mustang
I adjust my Lashes while it's running!
You can run solid lifters on a hydraulic cam.
My concern with running hydraulic lifters near maximum preload is lifter pumpup. I much prefer running hydraulic lifters near minimum preload.
very informative, thank you
I'm glad you liked it Kevin, Thanks for Watching!
Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage I especially like the tip about keeping tabs on the lash to catch any of the warning signs of a lifter potentially going away- catch it before a big problem happens
Thanks Andy, great as usual. Mixed up boss 👍
Thank you sir! More to come...
Andy
Good information. I’m a 300 in- line 6 guy just because I like being different/difficult. I had been thinking about a non roller solid cam. But since I’m only spinning 5000-5500. I probably wouldn’t see an advantage?
Just the information I needed thank you.
Good info, thanks for all you do !! Your an awesome guy!!!👍👍👍👍🇺🇲 .
Awsome vid thsnks
I run a Cam Motion low lash roller in my 406 SBC on the street and road course track days in a 240Z. I see they don't do anything but LS, LT and Hemi stuff now. I started with regular Isky rollers, but switched to the bushed lifters to not have to worry about the needle bearings. Anyway, the Low Lash stuff is how Cam Motion makes solid rollers live on the street.
Tight lash cams are great. Run Lunati TLR with Isky's. Never looked back.
I have a cam motion low lash solid cam for my 540, 670 ish lift. Interested to see how it will do, i have a set of crower endurance lifters
This guy is the first Engine Builder I've ever heard mention anything about Physics or better yet the mention of Resonant Frequencys. I have no doubt that the mechanically inclined masses still believe in the fairy tale of Tetraethyllead or TEL being used as a valve seat non-stick. False, TEL is an organolead compound that was originally added to Gasoline as an anti-knock Octane builder first used by the General Motors Corporation in 1921 allowing an increase to vehicle compression ratios. I cannot fill in all the blank spaces, but I will hint on a direction. Nicola Tesla inventer of the Electric Motor was a knowledgeable individual, but his Motors were cast of solid iron bodies. They were prone to overheating issues. Today's Motors are not solid cast, but have been redesigned of a laminated iron design that eliminated overheating. There is much to learn. As this builder has said, "frequentcys!" Great video, thank you.
I'm glad you enjoyed it.. Thanks for watching!
Andy
I just love therapy on four wheels
I have run my fair share of solid rollers on the street. Lobe profile is one of the most important things, but there is another thing to consider as well. Depending on the head design, spray bars for the springs are a must with high lift. If oil doesn't pool at the base of every valve spring (by head design), you should run sprayers to cool the springs down. I ran marine solid roller cams in BB Chevys, well over 300 advertised duration, about 800 lift, rev kit, and the entire valve train survived street use for years. Before anyone says the cam was too big, it had an 8 inch stall, with 5:86 rear gears. It was set up for 1/8 mile.
That is a great valid point as well... Most people don't think of Oil as a coolant.. BUT it is.. heat kills springs.. the temp spikes that occur when a spring running on the ragged edge is unreal..
Andy
lots of great info. Hope my head can handle it.
Thanks for Watching Ken... And for the kind words
Andy
Now my lifter maintenance includes replacing the lifters can’t find any hydraulics that work like they should
I personally think if you run a solid roller cam shaft at mid to lower RPMs most of the time it will probably be fine , I do believe that they take most of the severe beating at higher RPM and it's street use if you keep the RPM relatively low for normal cruising solid roller cam shaft can last a long time problem is when the roller needles do starting to come apart it's likely to kill the entire engine sadly
Lots of bull here. Every 273 commando Chrysler made had a solid lifer cam
And I do not recall ever adjusting the lash on mine
And it saw 7500 to 8,000 rpm all the time.
Big difference between solid flat tappet vs Solid Rollers...
🔔😎😁 Good presentation 👍👍
Thank you for watching! Glad you liked it
Love that shirt.
Very informative, Great vid!
Whatever happened to Schubeck lifters? The were the craze 20byears ago and just vanished.
Thanks fos the video!! Help me a lot!!
good solid video andy 😮
Learned a TON, thanks!
REMEMBER TO HIT THE LIKE BUTTON, FELLAS! IT DON'T COST YOU NOTHIN'!
I doubt anyone else commented, but a neatly-ironed clean shirt really added to his presentation. On another note: you can allay valve train stress by using a gentler opening and shutting profile on the cam, which sacrifices lower-end or higher-end power, one of the two, in order to use longer duration to more-gently open and shut the valves. Your fuel mileage may not thank you, but your valvetrain and springs will most definitely thank you!
What about reliability? I'm hearing from a lot of people who experienced hydraulic roller lifter failure and subsequent engine disasters. Boat racers are switching to solid roller lifters for this reason.
Colorado, I have been hearing this for a while.. Just my two cents I think in a Boat app.. I would pick the solid anyways... because of the sustained high rpms! I could see where oil control could wreak havoc on a valvetrain.
Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage One of the decision to running a solid roller lifter vs. hyd is that they're lighter, thus less mass and easier on parts?!
@@badgerbait8351 Yes the solid roller lifters are lighter than their Hyd. counterparts.. this helps in the area of less stress but the main benefit is being able to turn the engine higher in the rpm range without having lifter collapse as you would with the Hyd. lifter... Thanks for watching!
Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage I have heard many horror stories back over the decades including distributor/oil pump drive failures including bronze gear compatibility issues. Attention to detail does not exempt anyone from issues or failures. You are hot rodding an engine and unbelievable issues and incompatible parts can be the norm but when all works well together amazing results can ensue.
Very informative and in a compact video, I liked and subscribed! I'm trying to set up a sbc 383 with a solid roller for the first time and can use every bit of knowledge available. Nice job
Thank you for watching Burt! I hope your 383 does great... Keep us updated on how it goes .
Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage Thanks a lot for replying! Any recommendations for a proper cylinder head for a max effort 383?
@@burtmoore2101 Burt, how much power are you looking to make?
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage
I'd like to see 650+hp, and up to 7800rpm's, at the crank if possible, so I was considering around a 230cc intake runner?
@@burtmoore2101 I put a set of AFR 227cc on my 383 with a solid roller. I switched from an rpm air gap to a high rise, I think I'll switch back but other than that it runs great. I'll have it dynoed soon.
Sbc 383
Flat top 10:1
AFR 227cc
Scorpion shaft rockers 1.5
Billet solid roller 702 lift 254/254 duration
Holley exflow efi and holley dual sync distributor.
All forged internals.
2004r transmission
10in non lockup converter deep oil pan
Andy ,I have a solid roller CCAMS 236 / 254 .050 and duration 273 / 292 .586 / .598 ,i tought 7300 rpm 350 sb chevy , this cam is all out racing or street racing ? can you tell me your opinión ?
What is the LSA on this cam?
Need to know what the weather looks like
Just what I needed to see I was wondering about the solid roller I have would be OK on the street I have a Howard's hydraulic roller in my big block it's a 427 60 over my cam I'd 235x241@50 616 lift I want to go with the comp cams xr292r it's 254x260@50 666 lift I was wanting more rpm and a Lil more hp the cam is good from 3100 to 7200 and I don't need to bring this motor any higher then 7000. I had a lunati cam that was good in the same power rang and the car flew on the street also I'm going to be driving the car mostly on the weekend I hope this will be safe.rick427
It's be cool to see the milage someone can get out of a big block with the right setup... everyone can build horsepower...but effenciey and horsepower would show who knows what
That is exactly what I did with my 393w .. was able to get 16mpg around town with a solid roller 600hp deal .. with 4.30 gears out back... It can be done! Thanks for Watching you can see that video on my channel as well ...
Andy
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage sweet! A guy I know said he knew someone that went into GM at one time and there sat on the shelf carburetors that said 25 to 100 miles to the gallon...then another guy that happen to get a dodge truck in our town in the late 70's maybe early 80s not quite sure... and he thought the gas gauge was broke...come to find out Chrylser came looking for that truck. It some how slipped by. Yup as we all know I'm sure big business stopped what should have been.
I have a Ford 427 in my performance street Mustang. Currently running a .600 lift hydraulic cam, Howard hydraulic roller lifters and Jesel shaft 1.6 rockers. My valve springs are AFR . 650 lift units. Today a friend asked and suggested why i wasn't running solid roller lifters? I didn't think solid lifters were something i could run on the street for 100k miles. I don't want to exceed the OEM 6500 redline. So, my questions are:
How often does the lash need to be checked for a daily, street performance engine that will only see 6500 rpm max?
Can i continue to use my hydraulic roller cam or should i get a solid roller cam similar to my hydraulic cam?
Can i continue to use my .650 valve springs?
Do solid roller lifters require lifter oil restriction in the block?
Thanks in advance
good info andy
Thank you for the kind words.. Thank you for watching!
Andy
Great video Andy !!
Back in the day they where solid