Hello Trev! Thank you for the excellent video! I watched it 2 times. There is one thing I want to share. Here, in Russia, we don't like to use wax in cavities. Because it dries up and cannot stop the corrosion spreading underneath. There are many joints of sheet metal wich has entrances in the cavities and outside. Moisture gets into the joint from outside, starts corrosion between the sheets and then it starts to spreading underneath the wax inside. Recently I worked on such car, which was treated with wax very whel, but it have serious rust damage inside the cavities. Here we mostly like to use thomething oily and non-drying. For example, conservation grease mixed with very thick transmission oil. It make car sticky and dirty on some areas outside, but it penetrates in the joints of metal and in the rust very whel. And it never dries. Better the dirty car than a rusty car)). Sorry for my bad english. Good luck!
I learned more in the forty-five minutes of this video than in weeks of trying to read online about the benefits of different types of sealers. Thanks, Trev!
what a fantastic comprehensive tutorial . Its one of my top goto guides Thank you Trev for all the hard work and precious time you have invested in making this video for us and sharing your extensive experience and skills
I'll never get tired of watching your content Trev. You have a great way of getting your knowledge across. I hope one day I'll have the confidence to do a proper full restoration of my old landrover defender. This video will be invaluable as Landy's have a lot of problems with rusty chassis. Possibly because we tend to love wading through any water and mud we can find 😂
Just discovered your channel. You are a great teacher! I took a panel working course 20 years ago and it all comes back to me now. I see you have a great taste as well. Love your music choice and your hairstyle!
Great work Trev, thank you. Im restoring a Land Rover Series 3 if you fancy taking a look. Used your panel beating video to help teach myself how to remove the dents in my aluminium panels.
Hi Trev, I've managed to find this brilliant video again, massive relief, phew, as I am in the middle of my chassis restoration and I have my EM121 patiently waiting to be sprayed. Kind regards Paul (from "48-SPOKES")
I am so relieved that you were not abducted by aliens again!!! Thanks for all the videos. I know that it takes a lot of time to make them, but a lot of people get a lot of knowledge and enjoyment from them.
Fantastic resource of a vital and much misunderstood aspect of car maintenance and repair. I learn so much from your videos Trev I just wish it was available 20-30 years ago . Your time and projects are very important and it would be selfish of us to expect regular videos of this length and detail. How about producing a regular weekly short podcast of say ....5-10 minutes and once a month a longer tutorial .(.time permitting of course. ) that way you can keep us up to date with progress without hours of video and editing work and we will get our regular 'fix ' !
Glad to see you back mate! Thanks for the timely information.. I was just going over my plan on my project for the underside. 😎👍 "MOM! Trev's back.. can I go out to play??" 😅🤣
Glad you’re back with another exceptional video. Arizona baby! No rust! Lived in East Coast, USA, for years and I feel your pain. Every car is a rust bucket in the making. Salt sprayed on the roads in winter and water ruins everything. I could do the Fred Flintstone feet out the floorboards braking of my ‘59 Bugeye (or, Frogeye) Sprite the rust got so bad. This is great info. Thanks.
Spent ages researching coatings and finally decided on exactly what you describe with the porsches. So far only used the epoxy on interior panels as I'm welding things up. Expensive, but impressed with it so far. Not easy to scratch while I've been working with it.
Your such a valid person, after you talked about the chemical zinc treatments i believe you can get a paintable galvanised finish. Was taking about metal sheds at the time.
Why do I always feel like a noob with a spray can when I watch your videos? LOL... Glad to see you back and as always I learned a few more things in this video. Just remember that Life is what happens when you are making other plans. Or, Take care of yourself first...
Thank you very much for this! Very good to clear up some misconceptions that is out there. I definitely learned a lot from this. And that stepnose Alfa... My favorite car of all time, I think.
great video Trev, lots of good info that covers a lot of the stuff you see done wrong. Dont know how many times i see undercoats and seam sealer onto bare metal or galvanised steel in my line of work. I'd love to see some of your tips on painting in the colder months and on accelerators or fast hardeners!
Fantastic informative video, thank you ! Interesting that the MOD used a range of Dinitrol products on the “Wolf” Land Rover Defenders as opposed to their earlier attempts with under seal 😉
Was just thinking yesterday that it's been some time since Trev posted a video...glad to have you back! It's interesting to see how you tackle the undercoating problem on your side of the pond. Over here in the US (especially here in the northeast) it's not uncommon for people to annually undercoat their cars with used motor oil or summer formula bar & chain oil (used for chain saws). There are also a number of lanolin-based undercoating products that work really well, though they also need to be reapplied annually. The lack of permanence is the key as they won't hold moisture against the steel like a permanent undercoating can do. Once saw a vid posted by a mechanic of him under a ~6 year old truck whose frame was totally rotted out due to the failure of a permanent undercoating treatment. Even here in the "Salt Belt" where we plaster the roads with salt during our harsh winters 6 years is pretty quick for that amount of damage.
I do like the Dinitrol products. I particularly like the Dynax clear for engine bay protection and as you say dries tack free. Thanks for sharing the wax and underseal product varieties, always nice to see a product actually applied .
This is exactly the info I need, you present it in a very understandable way and I hope you will continue to share your knowledge and experience, for me as an amateur it is invaluable. Thank you.
Did miss you but it's good you are busy but it does take alot out you , it's better being busy than not , good to see you and thanks for showing these things, I'm broke but still trying to change that , have heaps of ideas to do but will do the simplest things first then go from there 👍🏾👍🏾👊
@37:31 Great point this - just got a van that has had some sort of bed liner type product on the arches - looked great but when I got it home and started picking, the rust had spread underneath and held the water against the metal - not much left but underseal and rust. Great video anyway - really helped with picking the right stuff to fix it up!
It’s an observation I’ve made. I get why people want to use a rock hard product because it makes sense to want to use something that’s really tough. I think initially it probably works really well up until the point where a small perforation occurs, then like you’ve said the product then acts as a vessel holding the water against the steel. Cheers Trev 👍
Really good video! So many people put thousands of hours into a resto and don't apply any common sense into rust prevention. We use a mix of cavity wax, fish oil and thinners 1:1:1 to spray inside box section and internal cavities like sills. Why, because it creeps between the gap where two pieces of metal are welded together. For two summers after a treatment I'm seeing the mix cream out of every joint on the underside of the car potentially protecting the areas where two pieces of steel are spot welded together. I also deliberately drill drain holes in sills and leave them open to let water out. Works for us, fish oil doesn't smell very pleasant, but by the time the engine is in and the interior done the smell has gone.
Good to have you back Trev. Brilliant video, wish i'd watched this before I painted and wax oiled the repaired sections of the Ford Puma last summer. Already looking forward to the next video. Van looks fantastic!!
Hi Trev, Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us . It all makes real good sense the way you do things, I look forward to trying out some of your recommendations. Kind regards Paul
A brilliant video Trev, I'm restoring a 1969 Commer PB Autosleeper and one of the biggest/most important jobs will be to apply/reapply protection to the underframe once I'm finished with removal of the old coatings and repairs, even if I don't go with the same products your observations on what to use where and why will be very much at the forefront of my considerations!
The best video, from the best professional. I only want to learn how to avoid rust (and to protect of corrosión) on my 77 Jeep Cj5. I didn't know what goes first (over bare metal car body) a primer or direct body schutz. Here in Venezuela the economy is very bad and it's difficult to have all this 3M products you show. I only want the minimun basics. Thank you Trev.
Great video Trev. Van is looking great, and that is good stuff you are using and should keep your van in good condition for many years to come. Cheers, Jeff.
This video has been very informative. I am just about to undertake restoring my pickup chassis and was not sure what to protect it with after i had done all the hard graft on it. Your help and advice has been well worth watching. Many thanks Trev.
just used some marine grade rust inhibiting primer called corroless s1. used it on some exposed brackets underneath my alfa 159 the stuff seems really good its brush on so doesn't leave a great finish but seems like its pretty bombproof and over-paintable. Really enjoy these videos learned a lot of handy tips and tricks cheers!
Great vid, and very timely - I'm just at the stage of waxing mine after painting, so useful indeed. I'd certainly agree on the rotisserie, I did my cars' entire underside (stripping, welding and painting) lying on the floor with the car about six inches from my nose. If I were to do this again, I'd definitely invest in a rotisserie!
I totally agree. I am restoring and finishing off a project I started 30 plus years ago. Still no rotisserie but going to get friends over to help me turn over the chassis (after the body is removed) so I can finish off the welding.
Nice to see you posting again. Wish i had heard your thoughts on bedliner before i just used it on my vehicle. Hope my being in a dry climate will save me from any problems too soon. Keep the advise coming.
thought you gone into hibernation winter and all that. Great return with real automotive problems addressed, fantastic although here where he temp can reach mid 40s, put a spray wax on my Mk2 Escort inside cavities,runs everywhere
I really missed your vids... Watching this with great interest for my own restoration... I use Sigma Cover 280 on the bare metal, it is marine grade epoxy primer...
Good to see you Trev, still a ways off waxing yet, I paint my epoxy with a big pressure pot, works great. Just about finished the front clip, then working down the bad side
Project Farm has a video about comparing truck bed liners, for lower budget spray cans. Also about using Fluid Film spray every fall. Sweet Project Cars has a video about melting vaseline for inside door panels. One trick is filling a cavity with a spray foam insulation- no room for mice to make a nest, and no room for water and mud, also blocks noise.
Very good an helpful video, Trev. Regarding protecting already rusted areas, mainly cavities: there is a product called Mike Sander - a special mixture of different types of greases. It feels almost like soft wax but it is grease. It is said to stop the rust 100% and has excellent creeping properties. The downside is that it is very messy to apply and later on - the car may start dripping in the summer sun for quite some time.
"also had good results with, epoxy primer and bed liner" same here, you MUST epoxy then bedliner over a well prepped surface otherwise your in a world of pain - the epoxy is doing the main work - bedliner protects the epoxy
![Full Underbody Rust Protection Guide [Seam Sealer, Underseal & Cavity Wax by Dinitrol] BMW E30 | 035](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/faO44fDtVQM/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello Trev! Thank you for the excellent video! I watched it 2 times. There is one thing I want to share. Here, in Russia, we don't like to use wax in cavities. Because it dries up and cannot stop the corrosion spreading underneath. There are many joints of sheet metal wich has entrances in the cavities and outside. Moisture gets into the joint from outside, starts corrosion between the sheets and then it starts to spreading underneath the wax inside. Recently I worked on such car, which was treated with wax very whel, but it have serious rust damage inside the cavities. Here we mostly like to use thomething oily and non-drying. For example, conservation grease mixed with very thick transmission oil. It make car sticky and dirty on some areas outside, but it penetrates in the joints of metal and in the rust very whel. And it never dries. Better the dirty car than a rusty car)). Sorry for my bad english. Good luck!
I learned more in the forty-five minutes of this video than in weeks of trying to read online about the benefits of different types of sealers. Thanks, Trev!
Me too,
every time i watch trev's blog makes me want to sort my mini out.
what a fantastic comprehensive tutorial . Its one of my top goto guides Thank you Trev for all the hard work and precious time you have invested in making this video for us and sharing your extensive experience and skills
I’ve missed you too Trev.
Good to hear that you take care of yourself!
Excellent summary on anti corrosion with tools, products and most importantly how to apply the stuff successfully
Good to see you again! 👍🇺🇸
Good to see you back Trev🤓
I'll never get tired of watching your content Trev. You have a great way of getting your knowledge across. I hope one day I'll have the confidence to do a proper full restoration of my old landrover defender.
This video will be invaluable as Landy's have a lot of problems with rusty chassis. Possibly because we tend to love wading through any water and mud we can find 😂
Jesus H that is better masking than Zorro - amazing attention to detail - you are a real craftsman/artisan.
Another very informative video - thanks Trev! Love the focus on personal safety.
Just discovered your channel. You are a great teacher! I took a panel working course 20 years ago and it all comes back to me now. I see you have a great taste as well. Love your music choice and your hairstyle!
Oh, I’ve missed your outro! Good job you made a nice job of the CA, it’s going to be around for ever.
I want to Thank you Trev for the Great videos,I always learn something..
The metal shaping skills you have is awesome.
Love the outro
Great work Trev, thank you. Im restoring a Land Rover Series 3 if you fancy taking a look. Used your panel beating video to help teach myself how to remove the dents in my aluminium panels.
Love this! Subscribed after the third watch and off I go trawling through your other videos. Cheers!
Glad to see you're back on Trev.The videos are good motivation for some of us slackers. Remember to take that occasional coffee break
hi trev.I have been a collision repair tech and a paintless dent repair guy in the usa for 32 years..Love your videos never to old to learn new stuff!
Who on earth thumbs down this? Great content. Great work Trev.
trev you are like an enclopedia man. thanks. i am very happy because you come back
Hi Trev,
I've managed to find this brilliant video again, massive relief, phew, as I am in the middle of my chassis restoration and I have my EM121 patiently waiting to be sprayed.
Kind regards
Paul (from "48-SPOKES")
I am so relieved that you were not abducted by aliens again!!! Thanks for all the videos. I know that it takes a lot of time to make them, but a lot of people get a lot of knowledge and enjoyment from them.
Fantastic resource of a vital and much misunderstood aspect of car maintenance and repair.
I learn so much from your videos Trev I just wish it was available 20-30 years ago .
Your time and projects are very important and it would be selfish of us to expect regular videos of this length and detail. How about producing a regular weekly short podcast of say ....5-10 minutes and once a month a longer tutorial .(.time permitting of course. ) that way you can keep us up to date with progress without hours of video and editing work and we will get our regular 'fix ' !
That was brilliant info man, and your work is just amazing, great stuff.
Nice seeing you again. Don't push yourself too hard for us!
Glad to see you back mate! Thanks for the timely information.. I was just going over my plan on my project for the underside. 😎👍
"MOM! Trev's back.. can I go out to play??" 😅🤣
It’s so nice to see another video, Trev. Always a treat.
Glad you’re back with another exceptional video. Arizona baby! No rust! Lived in East Coast, USA, for years and I feel your pain. Every car is a rust bucket in the making. Salt sprayed on the roads in winter and water ruins everything. I could do the Fred Flintstone feet out the floorboards braking of my ‘59 Bugeye (or, Frogeye) Sprite the rust got so bad. This is great info. Thanks.
great vid, love to see someone who knows their stuff
Really love your videos. I’m brand new to body work and I’ve loads to do! 😂 thanks 🙏
Thanks Trev, another cracking video. So much great info. We beggars can’t be choosers so whenever your next video comes out is fine.
Spent ages researching coatings and finally decided on exactly what you describe with the porsches. So far only used the epoxy on interior panels as I'm welding things up. Expensive, but impressed with it so far. Not easy to scratch while I've been working with it.
As usual great content. Prep is 90% of job. Love the safety aspects
Nice to see you, Trev! You have been missed!!
It's been a while, but well worth the wait. Another really helpful video that filled significant gaps in my knowledge. Love the outro music.
Good Man. Good to see you back on RUclips
Good to see you back!!
Great video as always 😁😁😁
Your such a valid person, after you talked about the chemical zinc treatments i believe you can get a paintable galvanised finish. Was taking about metal sheds at the time.
I think with all your experience and knowledge you would be a great night school lecturer
Why do I always feel like a noob with a spray can when I watch your videos? LOL... Glad to see you back and as always I learned a few more things in this video. Just remember that Life is what happens when you are making other plans. Or, Take care of yourself first...
Thank you very much for this! Very good to clear up some misconceptions that is out there. I definitely learned a lot from this.
And that stepnose Alfa... My favorite car of all time, I think.
Hi YTrevor. Good to see you back. So much information!!. My notepad is now quite full as i will never remember it all. Many thanks.
great video Trev, lots of good info that covers a lot of the stuff you see done wrong. Dont know how many times i see undercoats and seam sealer onto bare metal or galvanised steel in my line of work. I'd love to see some of your tips on painting in the colder months and on accelerators or fast hardeners!
Welcome back trev, i'm super happy with the rust buster finish on the hilux, thanks for the tip!
Mini Man Shed glad you’re happy with the results Martin. Cheers Trev 👍
Fantastic to have you back yet again trevor 😀👍
Welcome back we missed you. 🍺
Fantastic informative video, thank you ! Interesting that the MOD used a range of Dinitrol products on the “Wolf” Land Rover Defenders as opposed to their earlier attempts with under seal 😉
Was just thinking yesterday that it's been some time since Trev posted a video...glad to have you back!
It's interesting to see how you tackle the undercoating problem on your side of the pond. Over here in the US (especially here in the northeast) it's not uncommon for people to annually undercoat their cars with used motor oil or summer formula bar & chain oil (used for chain saws). There are also a number of lanolin-based undercoating products that work really well, though they also need to be reapplied annually.
The lack of permanence is the key as they won't hold moisture against the steel like a permanent undercoating can do. Once saw a vid posted by a mechanic of him under a ~6 year old truck whose frame was totally rotted out due to the failure of a permanent undercoating treatment. Even here in the "Salt Belt" where we plaster the roads with salt during our harsh winters 6 years is pretty quick for that amount of damage.
Chris Freemesser you’ve highlighted well the point that different environments demand different precautions. Cheers Trev 👍
I do like the Dinitrol products. I particularly like the Dynax clear for engine bay protection and as you say dries tack free. Thanks for sharing the wax and underseal product varieties, always nice to see a product actually applied .
Another brilliant and well constructed video.So glad you found the time to produce it.Thanks
This is exactly the info I need, you present it in a very understandable way and I hope you will continue to share your knowledge and experience, for me as an amateur it is invaluable. Thank you.
Did miss you but it's good you are busy but it does take alot out you , it's better being busy than not , good to see you and thanks for showing these things, I'm broke but still trying to change that , have heaps of ideas to do but will do the simplest things first then go from there 👍🏾👍🏾👊
Welcome back Trevor missed ya👍
@37:31 Great point this - just got a van that has had some sort of bed liner type product on the arches - looked great but when I got it home and started picking, the rust had spread underneath and held the water against the metal - not much left but underseal and rust. Great video anyway - really helped with picking the right stuff to fix it up!
It’s an observation I’ve made. I get why people want to use a rock hard product because it makes sense to want to use something that’s really tough. I think initially it probably works really well up until the point where a small perforation occurs, then like you’ve said the product then acts as a vessel holding the water against the steel. Cheers Trev 👍
Nice to see you Trev,i enjoyed the show!!
Really good video! So many people put thousands of hours into a resto and don't apply any common sense into rust prevention. We use a mix of cavity wax, fish oil and thinners 1:1:1 to spray inside box section and internal cavities like sills. Why, because it creeps between the gap where two pieces of metal are welded together. For two summers after a treatment I'm seeing the mix cream out of every joint on the underside of the car potentially protecting the areas where two pieces of steel are spot welded together. I also deliberately drill drain holes in sills and leave them open to let water out. Works for us, fish oil doesn't smell very pleasant, but by the time the engine is in and the interior done the smell has gone.
Good to have you back Trev. Brilliant video, wish i'd watched this before I painted and wax oiled the repaired sections of the Ford Puma last summer. Already looking forward to the next video. Van looks fantastic!!
Hi Trev,
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us . It all makes real good sense the way you do things, I look forward to trying out some of your recommendations.
Kind regards Paul
Excellent video very informative about the killer rust and preventive products Thanks.
A brilliant video Trev, I'm restoring a 1969 Commer PB Autosleeper and one of the biggest/most important jobs will be to apply/reapply protection to the underframe once I'm finished with removal of the old coatings and repairs, even if I don't go with the same products your observations on what to use where and why will be very much at the forefront of my considerations!
The best video, from the best professional. I only want to learn how to avoid rust (and to protect of corrosión) on my 77 Jeep Cj5. I didn't know what goes first (over bare metal car body) a primer or direct body schutz.
Here in Venezuela the economy is very bad and it's difficult to have all this 3M products you show. I only want the minimun basics. Thank you Trev.
Mercasol 1 and 3 have given me good success in keeping the rust away on salty roads in Norway.
Been thinking of you lately, take it easy. All the best to you and Miss Bird.
Good to see you back posting vids, love the channel!
Great video Trev. Van is looking great, and that is good stuff you are using and should keep your van in good condition for many years to come.
Cheers, Jeff.
cabdriveruk Lets hope so Jeff. Cheers Trev 👍
This video has been very informative. I am just about to undertake restoring my pickup chassis and was not sure what to protect it with after i had done all the hard graft on it. Your help and advice has been well worth watching. Many thanks Trev.
You need to do what you need to do mate. Good to see you back.
just used some marine grade rust inhibiting primer called corroless s1. used it on some exposed brackets underneath my alfa 159 the stuff seems really good its brush on so doesn't leave a great finish but seems like its pretty bombproof and over-paintable. Really enjoy these videos learned a lot of handy tips and tricks cheers!
Good to see you back Trev..
Good to see you back Trev great video as usual. Loads to learn thanks
Nice work Trev, some very good Information and perfect timing for my rally build. Keep up the good work sir
The Gentlemen's Motor Racing Team thanks Kev, great to hear from you. Cheers Trev 👍
Great vid, and very timely - I'm just at the stage of waxing mine after painting, so useful indeed. I'd certainly agree on the rotisserie, I did my cars' entire underside (stripping, welding and painting) lying on the floor with the car about six inches from my nose. If I were to do this again, I'd definitely invest in a rotisserie!
I totally agree. I am restoring and finishing off a project I started 30 plus years ago. Still no rotisserie but going to get friends over to help me turn over the chassis (after the body is removed) so I can finish off the welding.
Thanks for sharing them tips Trev , nice to see you back
Great video Trev, looking forward to using some of the products
Your the man, thanks for sharing your knowledge
Nice to see you posting again. Wish i had heard your thoughts on bedliner before i just used it on my vehicle. Hope my being in a dry climate will save me from any problems too soon. Keep the advise coming.
thought you gone into hibernation winter and all that.
Great return with real automotive problems addressed,
fantastic although here where he temp can reach mid 40s,
put a spray wax on my Mk2 Escort inside cavities,runs everywhere
Welcome back Trev, hope you are doing ok mate!
Ziebart was the best in the early 70s i can remember it as being like waxy underseal , cars were under steam cleaned then this was blasted on .
Thank you trev really well done.
I really missed your vids... Watching this with great interest for my own restoration... I use Sigma Cover 280 on the bare metal, it is marine grade epoxy primer...
That's a beautiful finish, Thanks for the info.
Good to see you Trev, still a ways off waxing yet, I paint my epoxy with a big pressure pot, works great. Just about finished the front clip, then working down the bad side
Good to see you back 👍
Great to see you back trailer how's the wife and the baking bird doing......😎
Really excellent info there Trev. You just convinced me to go for that epoxy treatment on my Jensen FF restoration.
NICE to see you are back !!
Good stuff as always 👍
Very useful info that Trev.Once again thank's for sharing your knowlege.
Really enjoy watching your videos I also do Autobody anyway hello from Calgary Alberta Canada good day Eh
Love your videos. Can’t wait for the next one!
Lots of valuable information here.
Thanks for another great Video Trev
Project Farm has a video about comparing truck bed liners, for lower budget spray cans. Also about using Fluid Film spray every fall. Sweet Project Cars has a video about melting vaseline for inside door panels. One trick is filling a cavity with a spray foam insulation- no room for mice to make a nest, and no room for water and mud, also blocks noise.
Proper impressed by the look of the epoxy mastic.. I'm starting on a Merc 560 SEC in a couple month and I think I'll use that product.
Good stuff mate! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Schultz was the Sergeant in "Hogan's Heroes". The underbody coating is Schutz. ...........but you knew that Trev :)
Good stuff as always.
Very good an helpful video, Trev. Regarding protecting already rusted areas, mainly cavities: there is a product called Mike Sander - a special mixture of different types of greases. It feels almost like soft wax but it is grease. It is said to stop the rust 100% and has excellent creeping properties. The downside is that it is very messy to apply and later on - the car may start dripping in the summer sun for quite some time.
Excellent information!
Welcome back
Great vid Trev. My dad still uses fish oil...🤔 He also uses acrylic and a copper suction pot. He is in the mid 60's agewise
Used this stuff have also had good results with, epoxy primer and bed liner
"also had good results with, epoxy primer and bed liner" same here, you MUST epoxy then bedliner over a well prepped surface otherwise your in a world of pain - the epoxy is doing the main work - bedliner protects the epoxy