I have the same or similar result with molasses Time soaking depends on the temperature of the solution . I can get great results like you did in summer But in winter a lot slower for sure
If you're not in a hurry for the part, you can use the old school Molasses/water bath at a ratio of 7 parts water to one part molasses. We put entire body parts in a molasses bath and the good thing is that it removes rust ONLY (acid just keeps eating). The downside is that it smells pretty funky in the summer so you'll want to keep it away from the house and put a lid on it to minimize evaporation and to contain the smell.
Plating on those parts either zinc or cadmium which has been passivated after plating. If worried about hydrogen enbrittlement suggest place parts in hot oven for 30 minutes after your stripping process. Heating will drive off hydrogen. Information comes from Aviation MilSpecs for Electroplaters. Rather important for the springs you mention.
Gonna' mention that myself - you beat me to it. For general purposes on steel, about 450° F. Also useful for critical parts that have been arc welded (esp. w/o low-hydrogen filler) as well as plated stuff
Great video thanks. I do a last stage before painting - treat with phosphoric acid, Kurust for little bits. Love to see the CA van. My Dad had a 1960 CAL Kenex Yeoman, 3213 K. Mid-60s I got the job of panel beating & painting the o/s front wing when a malicious lamp post attacked it. Managed a total no-filler repair & brush painted the deep red & cream to match with Tekaloid. Keep up the great work, your tremendous efforts are appreciated!
If you can wait for a few days try Molasses (5l costs about £7) diluted 1:10 with water so 50l for £7 slower than citric acid but more gentle. Thanks for video will try Citric acid for smaller parts.
Same method I've been using for years. Hydrogen embrittlement is very low risk, but certainly worth mentioning. Hydrochloric on the other hand almost guarantee hydrogen embrittlement. I've only had one cast piece damaged using this process. I don't know exactly what the cause was. It is possible it was riddled with rust throughout the porosity , or for some reason the excessive soak time ate it away. I've tried with other sacrificial cast pieces and never experienced it again.
Definitely use washers, the paint will be ruined under those bolts, and use stainless bolts and washers. More importantly, when are you going to show us how you get your hair so perfect?? Love the videos keep up the good work, are you going to Beaulieu for the custom show this year? Be nice to buy you a beer and have a chat, or any other beverage that takes your fancy. Cool music too.
I would have varnised or clearcoated the top side of that shift cover, then it would probably still be there. Better rust prevention in future, even if you want to paint it later. Oh well, you can re-plate it if you can be bothered. Bice video. Easy to listen to this knowledgeable guy. Lovin the channel, Trev.
Morning Trev, I went back through your videos this morning as I remembered I watched one about rust removal, do you think it would work on removing rust from the inside of a petrol tank?
Julie Blackwell a friend if mine has used it to do just this but I haven’t personally, I know that you can get sealers to put in tanks to seal off the metalwork inside and seal up leaks etc, perhaps it would be an idea to use that afterwards. Just make sure you rinse and dry the tank thoroughly before using anything after. Cheers Trev 👍
Thanks Trev - I think I'll give it a whirl. I have 6 cast iron heat registers from 1910 to clean. No rush, so this'll work! Love your channel - never a better metal doctor have I seen. Keep up the great content. Chuck in NE Kansas, USA
What a great idea about paint stripper. I've been trying to strip the paint off the Lada Riva (10 tons of Russian pride) bonnet for weeks, ended up more like a polish. Shined it up a treat, I'm going to try that tip tomorrow and cover it with paint stripper and cling film. "Oh those Russians" ( Boney M, Rasputin)
The yellow was zinc chromate conversion. To get the job done way faster, use Muriatic acid. Would have been done in an hour. The fastest way I have ever seen.
Hi Trev. Love your channel, loads of really good info, particularly all the panel beating stuff. For rust removal, though, I can't recommend anything more than electrolysis. It's dead simple, all you need is some sugar soap, water, some scrap steel and a DC power supply. There's no need to worry about leaving your parts in too long, no need to neutralise the parts after treatment, and no need even to strip paint or to degrease - it'll pretty much all come off during the process, especially if you drive the process with a DC welder as opposed to a battery charger. The reason I prefer electrolysis over anything else is that it doesn't remove any good metal, and converts the rust from the dreaded red death, Fe2O3, to stable, non-cancerous, Fe3O4 (magnetite). I use it for rust removal on machine tools, lathes and the like, where precision is important, and abrasives are pretty much a no-no. As for the whole hydrogen embrittlement thing, I used to worry about it, but decided to do a test. Took a bunch of identical springs, rusted most of them by dipping in and out of salt water. Kept a couple of rusted and a couple of clean springs as controls, chucked the rest in the electrolysis bath, DC welder at 20A for an hour or so. Pulled half out, dried and oiled them, then hooked up the battery charger and left the rest electrolysing for 2 days. I then pulled them to destruction using work's little load cell and a hand winch. Result - no discernible difference. Less than .5N spread between all the springs, they all went to plastic deformation at about 30N. No premature snapping. None of which is to say that hydrogen embrittlement is not a real thing, but I couldn't see the effects.
Is Trev coming from the UK? I'm here in Canada working on a 1993 Plymouth Acclaim. Bought it used low Kim's. Previous owner never washed the road salt off from Winter. The factory painted all the rims and suspension parts with that thin electrostatic black paint. Well the salt ate through it and rusted everything. So I disassembled the front and rear ends. Washed the oil, dirt and grease if any. Used paint stripper, scraped, wire brushed and rotary wire brushed with a electric Die grinder. Then filled a plastic tub to submerge the wheel rims and soaked them for two days in a 50/50 mix of Muriatic Acid and water. Removed all the rust deep into the pits. After used Ajax and liquid soap to wash and clean the metal, flushed down with water. Then used a milder acid called metal prep to prevent flash rusting, washed off with water again then sun dried and ready to Prime with metal Primer. Two to three coats of Primer, lightly sand and top coat. Don't waste your time removing heavy rust with other vinegars, mild rust removers etc. you will there to Christmas. Use Muriatic cleans fast and is Violent. Cleans heavy rust fast. Sandblasting can be use after. Sandblasting can not get down in the pores. Also did electrolysis using a battery charger. Ok to a degree. But Acid gets it cleaner faster.
I've seen a test where Evap-O Rust did absolutely nothing to dissolve rust. the test was done by a youtuber who tests various products equally and scientifically. muratic acid which I've personally used will dissolve the rust in about 10-15 minutes soak. I usually dilute it to about 10% Hydrochloric acid instead of 37.5% which muratic is. products with phosphoric acid are the next quickest. vinegar works too but is rather slow but its also pretty safe as you can drink vinegar without a problem. if you prefer the non toxic and bio degradable properties of Evap-O Rust then go ahead.
@@darkshadowsx5949 Evap-O-Rust doesn't work if the metal has oil on it. I saw that video. Something was off there, maybe oil, maybe something else. A dip in any strong acid will emulsify any oil, then it can be rinsed and tossed into the Evap-O-Rust for a week. There won't be any rust on it after that. Unlike acids, the metal won't turn brittle or soft, and you don't have to hurry to prime it because it won't corrode until you rinse it really well. It's not as fast as other methods. Other than tax refunds and pizza deliveries, how often is faster better.
Here's a good article for anybody who wants to know about hydrogen embrittlement due to pickling. www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Embrittlement.pdf
The protective effect of chromate coatings on zinc is indicated by color, progressing from clear/blue to yellow, gold, olive drab and black. Darker coatings generally provide more corrosion resistance. -wiki. Also isn't phosphoric cheap enough while more conserving to the steel.
How the hell did RUclips know I was grinding surface rust off an old trailer frame earlier today? I've not googled anything to do with it whatsoever. I've only talked to someone about it while I was doing it, while my phone was in my pocket. Spy much, Google?
I had the same. I mentioned 'torana' to someone as id never seen or heard of 1 before n next day youtube recommended 4 torana videos to me...... ive called google 'cunts' many times but i never get any pussy vids....
Believe it or not I've let rusted pieces soak in a bucket with Coca Cola for 24 hrs. It worked great. Took the pieces out and used a drill with circular wire brush and cleaned em up pretty good.
Again a very informative video Trev. Yours is about the first channel to mention the use of thin "plastic" sheets when applying paint stripper whereas (if that's the right word) it makes a tremendous difference. ATB Marc - Belgium
Thank you. A great alternative. I normally used water vinegar with salt, and let them seat for 1 or 2 days, depending on the amount of rust; then rinse them with water, and soak them for a few minutes in water with baking soda mix; and give them a final rinse with water. Please keep on doing videos where you "teach" how to do things.
I use household vinegar to do the same job. Acetic acid, vinegar, same thing. You can water it down if you need to and it can be had cheaply. Once your done, you can neutralise it with baking soda, rinse it off, then on to prep and paint. Also, that gold-ish coloured plating looks exactly like zinc. You can buy bolts with that same cheap look to them. Awful looking stuff, but I guess it did its job... I prefer the look of nickel plating myself.
Not to change the subject, but as a post below indicated another chemical has been banned, but going into my local home improvement store, I usually pick a another gallon of paint stripper for my automotive projects. As of 2019, none of the common brands contain methylene chloride. With out this aggressive and some what dangerous product, requiring correct handling but it too has been removed from access to the general public. It maybe found at professional distributors but not for the DIY's as this is the only common chemical that will attack and remove catalyzed clear coat or single stage catalyzed products. Sad. It has almost doubled in price over the last two years from 2017 - 2018, not gone in 2019. Good video and well spoken accent. Like! ASE Master Tech since 1978 / Retired.
We still got it in thailand. Its full strength n burns like a bastard! Its amazing how parts of you start stinging even when brushing it on slowly and taking a piss is to be avoided even after removing the marigolds...
Wow, I would never have believed that those hinges could not only be salvaged but that they would come up so well! Top, tip! Well done! As for washers, I think you should put them on. We probably lost our industrial might to the Japanese because we insisted on using washers on bolts instead of investing in better fixings like they did. However, any man who insists on knocking up rubber gaskets for the hinge to door meeting probably won’t be able to sleep at night if he didn’t put the washers on the bolts. Think of the better spread of force! That’s proper British engineering, that is: You can’t see it and you can’t tell it’s there but you’ll know... And one day, when a man in a brown work coat with four pens in the top pocket eyes your work, he will nod approvingly, rather than suck his breath through his teeth and tut. And then you’ll be glad you did...
O, haha Trev bro - prefer a grainy finish and wound up smashing on a hi gloss. Now there's the rest of the van to match it :-) Nice to know about the citric acid process. Very slow though. I really could use something to brush on - couldn't we all, also working within a reduced time span. kokokola doesn't seem to do much. Any idea what is in those rust killers (they change the ferrous oxide to an inert 'x'. Nice info - thanks.
Think your correct yellow iridescent passivated zinc.. There's another process they use that's kind of a yellowish gold but not iridescent they call cadmium plate. But this process you have does work great I'm going to use I've been doing it the hard way rotory wire brushing, stones, and sanding discs. Thank you sir ! Will coke work you think Trev ? They say work smarter, not harder.
Hydrogen brittleness: hydrogen is an extremely minute atom.It can easily penetrate and wander through steel, copper etc. If it finds a rust or oxide inclusion it will react with the oxygen in the rust or oxide. Water vapor is then formed, which is a gas. The water vapor expands causing a micro explosion which causes micro cracks in the surrounding material which then becomes brittle. Isn't technology beautiful!
The most common substrates material for zinc are carbon steel, unalloyed steel, low alloyed steel and cast iron. By applying a heat treatment after zinc plating hardened steels can also be zinc plated. The heat treatment is necessary to avoid hydrogen embrittlement. Source: uk-finishing.org.uk
Hey Trev. Here's a somewhat related question maybe for a video too: What would you use on surface rust in unreachable/awkward parts where taking apart or cutting out and rebuilding is not really an option maybe because of time or financial reasons? I mean to somewhat stop, inhibit or passivate the rust from spreading. Any chemicals or products you had good results with? Thanks
Get some phosphoric acid, works the same but is a bit thicker already. It's the working ingredient in almost all commercial de-ruster. If you want it even thicker, find some "paint stripper thickener" at a bodyshop-supplier. It's hard to find, but will make a very nice paste that you can even use upside down.
I vote the shifter cover was zinc with a yellow chromate and not passivated. You can get the same results doing Cadmium with a yellow chromate. The cost would be lower with zinc. (Only speaking from 19+ years in a plating shop.)
Just use a dilute solution of hydrochloric (muriatic) acid. Citric acid is too expensive. No heat needed. just let it sit for a while... be patient. Also removes mill-scale. I use the same solution over and over until it goes too slow. Also I like it when people don't use background music. If your goal is to pass on information, then just say it. If the listener needs music to keep them interested then to heck with them.
Love the surf jam in the beginning! Are you allowed to have Phosphoric Acid over there? Thats what I use. Citric acid also does a great job cleaning the dish washer.
Hey all you strippers try this little trickery ,take Brown viniger add table salt 50%to the viniger degrease the parts, lay the parts in the solution.neutralized with baking soda. Work s on my turbo actuator s,
Surface tension is broken you are correct they use it in spraying weeds also, so the chemical won't just run off the leaves. It forces the chemicals to stick and stay put. Without it it's spotty at best then you have to go back over , and over to kill the weeds. Makes it less effective for killing weeds if it's just water and weed killer so detergent added really solves the problem calling it a surfactant.
Tezzr Terry true but while not terribly expensive it costs a lot more. It does make a nice final step as a finisher / converter primer . Prime with epoxy primer or POR 15 and coat with a nice hard urethane and you’re off to the races.
I kind of like the bead blaster method with very fine blasting media that cleans off rust and paint and cleans the parts leaving them smooth and not pitted. 😁👍
Trev, came back to watch this a second time a year later because I'm about to try this method on an old motorcycle tank. On the second go-round, I found myself asking, what was wrong with the original hinges on the truck?
The brass balls were badly worn. The only new ones I could find were too small, but i used them anyway. The doors were then too low so I drilled out the mounting holes which enabled me to raise the doors. The problem I had was because the holes were larger the bodywork distorted as it tried to pull through the holes. The replacement hinges although rusty had hardly any wear. Cheers Trev 👍
That coating was a chromate dip a standard anti oxidation treatment for automotive and all industrial parts for decades. It has been replaced here in the US by e-coat which is not as good but much more environmentally friendly.
Have you ever used a blast cabinet?? :) This takes longer time but is less labour than blasting. The best method I found is to pay someone to do this, preferably someplace where they have an automatic cabinet.
Top tip about the embrittlement, lucky here as French supermarkets sell citric acid powder and 14° vinegar off the shelves. I use the vinegar for stripping galvo off fasteners etc as I hate welding the stuff, but it was interesting to see CA will strip it as well. I wonder if stainless bolts and washers would look good on those hinges? , stainless can look a bit classier than zinc sometimes. You can of course run some heat over SS to give it some colour if thats your thang. Aquarium heater good idea, something for the shopping list lol.
@@joejojo4751 Yes, its usually in a packet, you should also see bicarbonate de soude there as well. I just found 20° strength vinegar in Cora. Leroy Merlin Brico may have it as well. I just tried citric acid solution on millscale, it does loosen it, bit obviously neat strong vinegar is faster.
Great video. Do you have any recommendations for paint stripper. The only thing the usual diy brands from B&Q seem to strip, is the money out of my wallet!
I used a cheap one from Screwfix on my old Land Rover bits. Can't remember the name, but it was not nitromors or any name I knew and it worked really well, and didn't destroy galvanising.
personally I am using a high pressure sanding. It requires strong air supply, but cleans rust effective. After I put over Loctite 7505. 2 days ago I was using your dent flipping technology and was happy with the final result on Ford Fiesta doors. Good luck !
Thanks for this gem - all I need now is a bucket big enough to fit the car in :-) .
Are you sure that there would be a car left if you did that?
@@markwatson9816 I could always call it the SL :-).
It gives me ideas for the kids pool.
Your metal skills, you truly are an artist
I would use washers, I can't bear the thought of that gorgeous paint cracking off under the bolt heads.
Paint the washers!
Definitely my favourite bodyshop channel
Sweet work dude 👍
Keep it coming
hydrogen embrittlement can be reversed by backing the steel in the oven to get the hydrogen out.
How hot and for how long?
@@bjrgjohannessen5184 4h at 400F
Jan Van Ruth, you beat me to it... Yup, bake your steel parts if they've been acid etched - or plated, and they're in a highly stressed application
I have the same or similar result with molasses
Time soaking depends on the temperature of the solution .
I can get great results like you did in summer
But in winter a lot slower for sure
If you're not in a hurry for the part, you can use the old school Molasses/water bath at a ratio of 7 parts water to one part molasses. We put entire body parts in a molasses bath and the good thing is that it removes rust ONLY (acid just keeps eating). The downside is that it smells pretty funky in the summer so you'll want to keep it away from the house and put a lid on it to minimize evaporation and to contain the smell.
Nice work. I aim to be as good as you when it comes to body work one day. True skills sir.
wife was in the kitchen thinking, trev's finally jetwashing the patio, how little did she know XD
Plating on those parts either zinc or cadmium which has been passivated after plating. If worried about hydrogen enbrittlement suggest place parts in hot oven for 30 minutes after your stripping process. Heating will drive off hydrogen. Information comes from Aviation MilSpecs for Electroplaters. Rather important for the springs you mention.
Gonna' mention that myself - you beat me to it.
For general purposes on steel, about 450° F.
Also useful for critical parts that have been arc welded (esp. w/o low-hydrogen filler) as well as plated stuff
Great video thanks. I do a last stage before painting - treat with phosphoric acid, Kurust for little bits. Love to see the CA van. My Dad had a 1960 CAL Kenex Yeoman, 3213 K. Mid-60s I got the job of panel beating & painting the o/s front wing when a malicious lamp post attacked it. Managed a total no-filler repair & brush painted the deep red & cream to match with Tekaloid.
Keep up the great work, your tremendous efforts are appreciated!
If you can wait for a few days try Molasses (5l costs about £7) diluted 1:10 with water so 50l for £7 slower than citric acid but more gentle.
Thanks for video will try Citric acid for smaller parts.
Brilliant! I`m not too worried about embrittlement ,all I need is a bucket big enough to get my van in!
Hi TREV can you list your solution for the rust removal? THANK!!!
Thank for the info Trev. It's a really good video. And the music literally rocks!!!😁
Same method I've been using for years. Hydrogen embrittlement is very low risk, but certainly worth mentioning. Hydrochloric on the other hand almost guarantee hydrogen embrittlement. I've only had one cast piece damaged using this process. I don't know exactly what the cause was. It is possible it was riddled with rust throughout the porosity , or for some reason the excessive soak time ate it away. I've tried with other sacrificial cast pieces and never experienced it again.
that gold coloured plating is Passivated Zinc
Surface converted zinc
Clear zinc
Zinc Chromate
Don't weld over it without fume extraction either, its toxic.
Good night from Alaska. Really enjoy your channel.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Finally, someone doing a rust removal vid with ACTUAL rust rather than really superficial rust. Those hinges look like mine! Thanks (again!) Trev.
wish i'd known about the ol citric acid trick a few years ago, but hey-ho. Thanks Trev
Nice process. Try adding a fish tank aerator/bubbler as well. This really helps circulation of the mix around the parts.
Nothing like some agitation to really advance things
Thanks again Trev , another great informative video " keep em coming " mate 👍👍👍👍
A cheap slow cooker works well and no need for the fish tank heater 👍🏻
Brilliant, as always. So informative and easy to follow, a proper RUclips gent
Definitely use washers, the paint will be ruined under those bolts, and use stainless bolts and washers.
More importantly, when are you going to show us how you get your hair so perfect??
Love the videos keep up the good work, are you going to Beaulieu for the custom show this year? Be nice to buy you a beer and have a chat, or any other beverage that takes your fancy.
Cool music too.
Hi Trev, that yellowish colour to me looks like the part was cadmium plated. Google cadmium plating and you'll see
I would have varnised or clearcoated the top side of that shift cover, then it would probably still be there. Better rust prevention in future, even if you want to paint it later. Oh well, you can re-plate it if you can be bothered. Bice video. Easy to listen to this knowledgeable guy. Lovin the channel, Trev.
Looks like Zinc Chromate
Love the tip about covering paint stripper to keep it active longer. Never heard that one 👍 love it as usual.
That plating was zinc and colour passivate 👍
Those parts came up lovely! Good old citric acid!
Morning Trev, I went back through your videos this morning as I remembered I watched one about rust removal, do you think it would work on removing rust from the inside of a petrol tank?
Julie Blackwell a friend if mine has used it to do just this but I haven’t personally, I know that you can get sealers to put in tanks to seal off the metalwork inside and seal up leaks etc, perhaps it would be an idea to use that afterwards. Just make sure you rinse and dry the tank thoroughly before using anything after. Cheers Trev 👍
You seem to very detailed, I like that, Great job
Thanks Trev - I think I'll give it a whirl. I have 6 cast iron heat registers from 1910 to clean. No rush, so this'll work! Love your channel - never a better metal doctor have I seen. Keep up the great content. Chuck in NE Kansas, USA
Hi Trev, Sand and polish the heads of the stainless bolts to get rid of the numbers, makes for a super clean look. Also I vote on smaller washers!
Not that it would be of benefit but I would do a final rinse with baking soda before applying primer. Thanks for the video!
Baking soda first, then clean water.
That’s brilliant just buying a Saab 96 that needs work, will be my first restoration gulp! Where to start!!
What a great idea about paint stripper. I've been trying to strip the paint off the Lada Riva (10 tons of Russian pride) bonnet for weeks, ended up more like a polish. Shined it up a treat, I'm going to try that tip tomorrow and cover it with paint stripper and cling film. "Oh those Russians" ( Boney M, Rasputin)
The yellow was zinc chromate conversion. To get the job done way faster, use Muriatic acid. Would have been done in an hour.
The fastest way I have ever seen.
Not Cadmium????
@@richardmason902 could be either
Hi Trev.
Love your channel, loads of really good info, particularly all the panel beating stuff.
For rust removal, though, I can't recommend anything more than electrolysis. It's dead simple, all you need is some sugar soap, water, some scrap steel and a DC power supply. There's no need to worry about leaving your parts in too long, no need to neutralise the parts after treatment, and no need even to strip paint or to degrease - it'll pretty much all come off during the process, especially if you drive the process with a DC welder as opposed to a battery charger. The reason I prefer electrolysis over anything else is that it doesn't remove any good metal, and converts the rust from the dreaded red death, Fe2O3, to stable, non-cancerous, Fe3O4 (magnetite). I use it for rust removal on machine tools, lathes and the like, where precision is important, and abrasives are pretty much a no-no.
As for the whole hydrogen embrittlement thing, I used to worry about it, but decided to do a test. Took a bunch of identical springs, rusted most of them by dipping in and out of salt water. Kept a couple of rusted and a couple of clean springs as controls, chucked the rest in the electrolysis bath, DC welder at 20A for an hour or so. Pulled half out, dried and oiled them, then hooked up the battery charger and left the rest electrolysing for 2 days. I then pulled them to destruction using work's little load cell and a hand winch. Result - no discernible difference. Less than .5N spread between all the springs, they all went to plastic deformation at about 30N. No premature snapping. None of which is to say that hydrogen embrittlement is not a real thing, but I couldn't see the effects.
the embrittlement comes from the acid surely?
Is Trev coming from the UK?
I'm here in Canada working on a 1993 Plymouth Acclaim. Bought it used low Kim's. Previous owner never washed the road salt off from Winter.
The factory painted all the rims and suspension parts with that thin electrostatic black paint. Well the salt ate through it and rusted everything. So I disassembled the front and rear ends. Washed the oil, dirt and grease if any. Used paint stripper, scraped, wire brushed and rotary wire brushed with a electric Die grinder. Then filled a plastic tub to submerge the wheel rims and soaked them for two days in a 50/50 mix of Muriatic Acid and water. Removed all the rust deep into the pits. After used Ajax and liquid soap to wash and clean the metal, flushed down with water. Then used a milder acid called metal prep to prevent flash rusting, washed off with water again then sun dried and ready to Prime with metal Primer. Two to three coats of Primer, lightly sand and top coat.
Don't waste your time removing heavy rust with other vinegars, mild rust removers etc. you will there to Christmas. Use Muriatic cleans fast and is Violent. Cleans heavy rust fast. Sandblasting can be use after. Sandblasting can not get down in the pores.
Also did electrolysis using a battery charger. Ok to a degree. But Acid gets it cleaner faster.
Evap-O-Rust and electrolysis are all I've used. I'm definitely going to try citric acid. These parts turned out perfectly. Thanks!
I've seen a test where Evap-O Rust did absolutely nothing to dissolve rust. the test was done by a youtuber who tests various products equally and scientifically.
muratic acid which I've personally used will dissolve the rust in about 10-15 minutes soak. I usually dilute it to about 10% Hydrochloric acid instead of 37.5% which muratic is.
products with phosphoric acid are the next quickest. vinegar works too but is rather slow but its also pretty safe as you can drink vinegar without a problem.
if you prefer the non toxic and bio degradable properties of Evap-O Rust then go ahead.
@@darkshadowsx5949 Evap-O-Rust doesn't work if the metal has oil on it. I saw that video. Something was off there, maybe oil, maybe something else. A dip in any strong acid will emulsify any oil, then it can be rinsed and tossed into the Evap-O-Rust for a week. There won't be any rust on it after that. Unlike acids, the metal won't turn brittle or soft, and you don't have to hurry to prime it because it won't corrode until you rinse it really well. It's not as fast as other methods. Other than tax refunds and pizza deliveries, how often is faster better.
Here's a good article for anybody who wants to know about hydrogen embrittlement due to pickling. www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Embrittlement.pdf
The protective effect of chromate coatings on zinc is indicated by color, progressing from clear/blue to yellow, gold, olive drab and black. Darker coatings generally provide more corrosion resistance. -wiki. Also isn't phosphoric cheap enough while more conserving to the steel.
How the hell did RUclips know I was grinding surface rust off an old trailer frame earlier today? I've not googled anything to do with it whatsoever. I've only talked to someone about it while I was doing it, while my phone was in my pocket. Spy much, Google?
I had the same. I mentioned 'torana' to someone as id never seen or heard of 1 before n next day youtube recommended 4 torana videos to me...... ive called google 'cunts' many times but i never get any pussy vids....
Without a doubt, they do it!
Happens to US regularly.
Believe it or not I've let rusted pieces soak in a bucket with Coca Cola for 24 hrs. It worked great. Took the pieces out and used a drill with circular wire brush and cleaned em up pretty good.
That plating is cadmium plating very nasty stuff. DO NOT GRIND IT OFF EVER! This has a high risk for cancer. Just my two cents. Love your vids.
Again a very informative video Trev. Yours is about the first channel to mention the use of thin "plastic" sheets when applying paint stripper whereas (if that's the right word) it makes a tremendous difference. ATB Marc - Belgium
Brilliant guide Trev, perfectly explained. Thank you.
Thank you. A great alternative. I normally used water vinegar with salt, and let them seat for 1 or 2 days, depending on the amount of rust; then rinse them with water, and soak them for a few minutes in water with baking soda mix; and give them a final rinse with water. Please keep on doing videos where you "teach" how to do things.
Way too much hassle and time consuming. A simple home made blast cabinet setup will clean this lot in ten mins.... Sorry Trev....
I use household vinegar to do the same job. Acetic acid, vinegar, same thing. You can water it down if you need to and it can be had cheaply. Once your done, you can neutralise it with baking soda, rinse it off, then on to prep and paint.
Also, that gold-ish coloured plating looks exactly like zinc. You can buy bolts with that same cheap look to them. Awful looking stuff, but I guess it did its job... I prefer the look of nickel plating myself.
i think the zinc is zinc chromate and it is regarded as highly toxic.
Great video trev👍keep them coming..
Thanks trev for taking the time to share your knowledge. Regularly helped me restore my 69 Chevy C10
Try a fish tank bubbler as well to help speed things up.
Only prob using an air bubbler is can oxidise the Acid and reduce the effectiveness of the solution.
google Coopers Strip Club. Brilliant stuff. Try Sodium Hydroxide (caustic soda) as an aggressive but safe metal cleaner too.
My missus hates you...because you keep me away from my chores😂🤣😂🤣😈👍🏻👍🏻🍺
Can you translate "screenwash" into American English? Thanks, Trev! Love your blog!
It's whatever you call the stuff you put in your windscreen washer bottle. Wiper fluid? Freedom cleaner? Probably something like that.
Trump shampoo
Haha! Thanks guys! We call it windshield washer fluid mostly. Figured that's what it was, but wanted to be sure before I ruined something!
😂😂😂Freedom cleaner😂😂😂
Not to change the subject, but as a post below indicated another chemical has been banned, but going into my local home improvement store, I usually pick a another gallon of paint stripper for my automotive projects. As of 2019, none of the common brands contain methylene chloride. With out this aggressive and some what dangerous product, requiring correct handling but it too has been removed from access to the general public. It maybe found at professional distributors but not for the DIY's as this is the only common chemical that will attack and remove catalyzed clear coat or single stage catalyzed products. Sad. It has almost doubled in price over the last two years from 2017 - 2018, not gone in 2019. Good video and well spoken accent. Like! ASE Master Tech since 1978 / Retired.
We still got it in thailand. Its full strength n burns like a bastard! Its amazing how parts of you start stinging even when brushing it on slowly and taking a piss is to be avoided even after removing the marigolds...
Brilliant as always Trev. ...How can anyone in their right mind give this a thumbs down!!
Claire Pendrous usually green eyed reasons I guess👍😘
Trev's Blog probably the sooks that whine about not wearing gloves!
Looks like gold cadmium plating
Wow, I would never have believed that those hinges could not only be salvaged but that they would come up so well! Top, tip! Well done!
As for washers, I think you should put them on. We probably lost our industrial might to the Japanese because we insisted on using washers on bolts instead of investing in better fixings like they did. However, any man who insists on knocking up rubber gaskets for the hinge to door meeting probably won’t be able to sleep at night if he didn’t put the washers on the bolts. Think of the better spread of force! That’s proper British engineering, that is: You can’t see it and you can’t tell it’s there but you’ll know...
And one day, when a man in a brown work coat with four pens in the top pocket eyes your work, he will nod approvingly, rather than suck his breath through his teeth and tut. And then you’ll be glad you did...
Won't the embrittlement only be on the very surface? So shouldn't have too much of an effect on any material of reasonable thickness?
O, haha Trev bro - prefer a grainy finish and wound up smashing on a hi gloss. Now there's the rest of the van to match it :-) Nice to know about the citric acid process. Very slow though. I really could use something to brush on - couldn't we all, also working within a reduced time span. kokokola doesn't seem to do much. Any idea what is in those rust killers (they change the ferrous oxide to an inert 'x'. Nice info - thanks.
That was absolutely amazing..and with food grade materials. Thank you so much for this new technique. And here's to ya..Cheers.🍻
Think your correct yellow iridescent passivated zinc.. There's another process they use that's kind of a yellowish gold but not iridescent they call cadmium plate. But this process you have does work great I'm going to use I've been doing it the hard way rotory wire brushing, stones, and sanding discs. Thank you sir ! Will coke work you think Trev ? They say work smarter, not harder.
Hydrogen brittleness: hydrogen is an extremely minute atom.It can easily penetrate and wander through steel, copper etc. If it finds a rust or oxide inclusion it will react with the oxygen in the rust or oxide. Water vapor is then formed, which is a gas. The water vapor expands causing a micro explosion which causes micro cracks in the surrounding material which then becomes brittle.
Isn't technology beautiful!
Any chance it was zinc chromate?
The most common substrates material for zinc are carbon steel, unalloyed steel, low alloyed steel and cast iron.
By applying a heat treatment after zinc plating hardened steels can also be zinc plated. The heat treatment is necessary to avoid hydrogen embrittlement.
Source: uk-finishing.org.uk
Hey Trev. Here's a somewhat related question maybe for a video too: What would you use on surface rust in unreachable/awkward parts where taking apart or cutting out and rebuilding is not really an option maybe because of time or financial reasons? I mean to somewhat stop, inhibit or passivate the rust from spreading. Any chemicals or products you had good results with? Thanks
Get some phosphoric acid, works the same but is a bit thicker already. It's the working ingredient in almost all commercial de-ruster. If you want it even thicker, find some "paint stripper thickener" at a bodyshop-supplier. It's hard to find, but will make a very nice paste that you can even use upside down.
balázs gyurka I’m sure I’ll cover this in other videos soon. Cheers Trev 👍
I vote the shifter cover was zinc with a yellow chromate and not passivated.
You can get the same results doing Cadmium with a yellow chromate.
The cost would be lower with zinc.
(Only speaking from 19+ years in a plating shop.)
wikipedia regards zinc chromate as highly toxic. cadmium chromate is probably even worse.
I suspect cadmium plating.
have you ever heard or tried electrolysis process from what I've seen and done on my own and it worked quite well and got some quite Rusty stuff free
Just use a dilute solution of hydrochloric (muriatic) acid. Citric acid is too expensive. No heat needed. just let it sit for a while... be patient. Also removes mill-scale. I use the same solution over and over until it goes too slow. Also I like it when people don't use background music. If your goal is to pass on information, then just say it. If the listener needs music to keep them interested then to heck with them.
Love the surf jam in the beginning! Are you allowed to have Phosphoric Acid over there? Thats what I use. Citric acid also does a great job cleaning the dish washer.
The plating on the gear flange could be cadmium. Cadmium is a toxic metal when oxidised. Great video.
Hey all you strippers try this little trickery ,take Brown viniger add table salt 50%to the viniger degrease the parts, lay the parts in the solution.neutralized with baking soda. Work s on my turbo actuator s,
Looks like the de' rusted surface would be good for powder coating. Much appreciated.
Surface tension is broken you are correct they use it in spraying weeds also, so the chemical won't just run off the leaves. It forces the chemicals to stick and stay put. Without it it's spotty at best then you have to go back over , and over to kill the weeds. Makes it less effective for killing weeds if it's just water and weed killer so detergent added really solves the problem calling it a surfactant.
The gear stick gator looked like it was cadmium plated. Dig the vids!
How can you go wrong, even when you make mistakes it still looks great :)
Put zink into phosphoric acid and You get a nice little Hydrogen whirlpool.
The heater is good, most chemicals double their effectiveness every extra 10deg. C. Phosphoric acid is better, and will work colder.
Tezzr Terry true but while not terribly expensive it costs a lot more. It does make a nice final step as a finisher / converter primer . Prime with epoxy primer or POR 15 and coat with a nice hard urethane and you’re off to the races.
I kind of like the bead blaster method with very fine blasting media that cleans off rust and paint and cleans the parts leaving them smooth and not pitted. 😁👍
Trev, came back to watch this a second time a year later because I'm about to try this method on an old motorcycle tank. On the second go-round, I found myself asking, what was wrong with the original hinges on the truck?
The brass balls were badly worn. The only new ones I could find were too small, but i used them anyway. The doors were then too low so I drilled out the mounting holes which enabled me to raise the doors. The problem I had was because the holes were larger the bodywork distorted as it tried to pull through the holes. The replacement hinges although rusty had hardly any wear. Cheers Trev 👍
That's a cheap and easy way to remove rust i love it thanks for the awesome tip
That coating was a chromate dip a standard anti oxidation treatment for automotive and all industrial parts for decades. It has been replaced here in the US by e-coat which is not as good but much more environmentally friendly.
Zinc gold chromate is still being done .
Most valuable information . Many thanks.
Trev that was fantastic thanks
I'm a woodworker myself but I must say, You have some extremely Mad Metal working skills! Just beautiful!
Fantastic video serious Trev. Thank you
A lot of work. A blast cabinet is the way to go , they are not that expensive now.
Have you ever used a blast cabinet?? :) This takes longer time but is less labour than blasting.
The best method I found is to pay someone to do this, preferably someplace where they have an automatic cabinet.
I use a blast cabinet at least twice a week at work , what do you mean ( less labour than blasting ) . Its easy and quick.
Love your vids, think this would work on a fuel tank?
phosphoric acid is about the best for removing rust takes hours compared to days,
That's coca cola innit?
Nathan Sweebley
It’s one of the ingredients
Another brilliant tutorial. Definitely washers on!
Brilliant video .would adding a. Air stone make any difference ?
Looks like cadmium plate to me , band now.
great video trev, they came out perfect!
I have used Ospho and it works great.Been using it for 30 years.I will always use it,but I might give this a shot too.
Thanks for sharing your secret recipe. Cheers! : )
Top tip about the embrittlement, lucky here as French supermarkets sell citric acid powder and 14° vinegar off the shelves. I use the vinegar for stripping galvo off fasteners etc as I hate welding the stuff, but it was interesting to see CA will strip it as well. I wonder if stainless bolts and washers would look good on those hinges? , stainless can look a bit classier than zinc sometimes. You can of course run some heat over SS to give it some colour if thats your thang.
Aquarium heater good idea, something for the shopping list lol.
Jaques Daniels what do I look for in my local Intermarché and is it with the cleaning products like the white vinegar ? Thanks joe
@@joejojo4751 Yes, its usually in a packet, you should also see bicarbonate de soude there as well. I just found 20° strength vinegar in Cora. Leroy Merlin Brico may have it as well. I just tried citric acid solution on millscale, it does loosen it, bit obviously neat strong vinegar is faster.
Great video. Do you have any recommendations for paint stripper. The only thing the usual diy brands from B&Q seem to strip, is the money out of my wallet!
I used a cheap one from Screwfix on my old Land Rover bits. Can't remember the name, but it was not nitromors or any name I knew and it worked really well, and didn't destroy galvanising.
Selsdon Webster this was dial B&Q
Looked like zinc Chromate
personally I am using a high pressure sanding. It requires strong air supply, but cleans rust effective. After I put over Loctite 7505.
2 days ago I was using your dent flipping technology and was happy with the final result on Ford Fiesta doors. Good luck !