Lots of Dawn dish soap in the first wash with hose water, warming by running then rinse and repeat with less Dawn each time. never put cold water in a hot engine. Drain while hot but do not refill until engine cools. Nothing breaks down the oil like Dawn and it is safe for ducklings and that's good enough for my van.
No and no. Oil cooler is on the engine block behind the oil filter. Radiator is far from it. you don't need to drain the oil but do drain the coolant before taking the oil cooler off to avoid any coolant spilling into the oil chamber as the cooler comes off.
Hello does anyone know what can cause coolant fluid between where transmission and engine meet? It’s also leaking black oil from there.... 2006 sprinter 2500.... thanks in advance for any possible feedback that might help!!
Having the same problem but I’ve got a couple questions before I tackle this. Do you need to do anything with the oil when flushing since it’s mixing in with the coolant system? And to do the flush do you just go through the coolant overflow and out the egr? How many flushes did it take? My overflow is pretty much black(darker then chocolate milk)
The oil pressure in the cooler is much higher than water pressure in cooler so oil typically goes into the water, not the other way. BUT... since your water is very oily and the oil is apparently very black I would give it an oil change soon after flushing and fixing. Flush by removing the bottom radiator hose. This will let the water "flush" out like an airplane toilet and pull oil with it. Flush with water and Dawn dish soap. "Dawn", not whatever your mom has. (hehe) LOTS of Dawn in the first flushes and less Dawn in the last few flushes. Flush it as many times as you can bring yourself to do it, minimum FIVE. Warm the engine by driving every time. Idle in the driveway wan't warm it fully or quickly. Drain the water as hot as you can without burning yourself. As the radiator cools oil will stick to it, inside.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you! Also since The oil cooler failed should I do flush before or after new cooler. If I do it before new cooler won’t the oil just keep mixing with coolant when the engine is warm?
There is a schematic of the cooling fluid shown in this video that is also posted in sprinter-source forum that I have a question about. Why does it show flow through the heater core before the heater control solenoid valve. Shouldn't the flow go through the T joint to the solenoid valve then continue back to the engine. Then as the heater cycles it opens at the solenoid off and on letting fluid into the heater core and exiting to the T joint. The arrows flow wrong direction it seems. What does anyone think. posting a correct flow schematic would be nice.
The graphic is correct. The valve is after the core, which seems wrong but when the valve blocks water from exiting the heater core no fresh hot water can be drawn into the core, so it works as expected despite the late placement of the valve.
Hi my name is Gabriel I have 2006 Sprinter Diesel, Temperatures around here I’ve been in the mid 40’s, for the past week I have noticed that The van works fine until the engine temperature goes above 150 Fahrenheit then goes into limp mode,Also I have noticed that I have a fuel leak behind the tank where the cooling coils are for the fuel it looks like it’s coming from a lot WYE connection I was wondering if the fuel coil thermostat could be causing The limp mode if there’s an obstruction in the cooling lines, I have replaced fuel pressure regulator on the rail and fuel pressure regulator sensor at the front of the rail still does the same exact thing
I know those coils can rust and leak at the Y-joint/valves. I've not seen one blocked and don't know how/why that would trigger a limp mode. Some of our vans don't have the Y and only half the coils. And maybe back pressure here would cause rail pressure too high. I suspect any obstruction would be in the Y, not the tube. If I had a leaking one and didn't have easy access to a parts-van, I would put in a simple T and see what happens.
Thank you I will replace the wye fittings ( 3/8 diameter?) What I was actually thinking as well to see if I could bypass the fuel thermostat and see when the engine warms up if it still goes into limp mode
@@gabipanaite9258 Avoid brass if you can, and get stainless steel. Biodiesel blend is hard to avoid, and the bio will make brass brittle in a year or two. It dissolves the zinc from within the brass, leaving a fitting that will weep and look wet all day, every day.
If caught early it will be only oil in the coolant but... every time we shut off the van the oil pressure drops immediately and the coolant system remains pressurized while hot, so a bit of antifreeze will get into the oil side (theoretically).
"caught it just in time" to prevent what? what would happen if you didn't catch and address this? i've got gravy in my cooler of a 2005 sprinter 250k miles, but the coolant level is low. i've had to add coolant twice in about 800 miles. i've got white smoke out the exhaust that's heavier at higher RPM. there is wet/oily soot built up around my oil cooler and on my air intake temp sensor. also wet soot at hose connections to my turbo (just found a wet sooty crack in hose to turbo at the clamp that i will epoxy in the morning) and at hose connections to my radiator. any suggestions would be much appreciated as your posted videos are, too. i do have a second van to swap parts btw. have you yet resolved 2blue's smoking problem?
2Blue got a replacement engine from a you-pull junk yard. We were looking for seats and fond an engine that looks too good to pass-up. Gravy in the radiator can be a oil cooler, but the smoke you describe combined with oil in the rad suggests a blown head gasket or crack in the head. These issues are what we avoided by catching the oil cooler early. The oil in the coolant gets foamy and blocks small passages the coolant should be flowing. This will cause the engine to overheat in some areas while the flowing coolant is still at acceptable temperature. it just cuts-off cooling to parts of the engine and bad things happen from there.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you! i just bought ya couple gallons of coffee. upon further inspection, my coolant is only slightly murky and not foamy, so maybe it doesn't have oil in it? i replaced the cracked hose to the turbo and the EGR valve/gasket, and the result is much improved smell and little smoke. i do have this black liquid inside my intake manifold/hose and even some on my turbo. must it be engine oil or could it be soot + coolant from a leaking EGR? Two more quickies about my 2005 sprinter 250k miles: how do i know if my DPF is clogged or needs work? also, i have one code that appears immediately after erasing and starting vehicle "U0423 Invalid Data Received From Instrument Panel Control Module." where is this module and is it likely faulty? or could it be something screwy like my climate/fan controls that don't quite fully function?
@@data_Dj Thank you for the coffee and support! Sounds like a cracked hose was making things oily, so that is fixed. Motor oil in the turbo lines is perfectly normal. The crankcase breather vents into the turbo input, so that vapor collects in the intercooler & boost passage. The best news is our 2005 Sprinters do not have DPF so that will never need work. Now the hard stuff: U0423 is usually a wire problem between the dash display and the ambient air temperature sensor near the front license plate. Does your dash board display a proper temperature when toggled with the time display? The wires are sometimes damaged doing work around the radiator and they sometimes fall victim to rodent chewing. Occasionally the sensor itself will fail, or the dash cluster. I've read of bad fuse connection near the top of the fuse block, so giving a little love-tap would be a fair test. Checking all fuses is always a must when looking for electrical gremlins. Even when we know they are good.... sometimes they aren't! So I take them out, one-by-one, and put the back. It is tedious task but takes only a few minutes.
@@data_Dj Two more things: The dash display we are discussing is the speedometer, odometer and gauge display, not the climate controls. Those are a separate issue and not related to your code. If your fan is working only on highest speed, we have a video for that with link to $12 repair part. ruclips.net/video/cXmYsW4iozc/видео.html If the heat doesn't turn off, we have a video for that too.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you! more coffee your way. my dash does not display any temperature, rather it displays "---", so i will look at the wiring and the ambient air temp sensor. additionally, both of your climate controls videos are applicable to my sprinter, so thank you again. one more thing: how much smell and fume is ok? i no longer have the smoky exhaust, but it's stinky around the van when running - maybe just stinky like any diesel engine but i'd like to know what's too stinky to ignore. it's also a little stinky inside the van when running. anything besides the cabin air filter that i should plan on fixing?
No, you need to get as much oil out of there as possible. Lots of Dawn dish detergent (cuts grease) and many flush and refills with more Dawn. Minimum 3 complete flushes... and that is short-cutting. Water, not anti-freeze in the fill/run/flush/repeat. Do not pour cold water in a hot engine. Patience patience patience...
Did you use anything to stick/“glue” the new gasket onto the new oil cooler to keep it in place while installing?
A little spit is all. Gross but effective and always available.
Great video, thank you
Thanks for sharing.i think I have a leak around this area, it’s slowing dripping down to the pan.
Ordered it with your Affiliate link
Brilliant video, I didn't even realise that was an oil cooler, cheers Mike.
Cheers!! -Mike
What was your flush procedure for this? I imagine you did that after installing the new cooler and gasket?
Lots of Dawn dish soap in the first wash with hose water, warming by running then rinse and repeat with less Dawn each time. never put cold water in a hot engine. Drain while hot but do not refill until engine cools. Nothing breaks down the oil like Dawn and it is safe for ducklings and that's good enough for my van.
Do you have to pull the radiator to get to/replace oil cooler? And do I need to drain the oil before removing the old cooler? Thanks
No and no. Oil cooler is on the engine block behind the oil filter. Radiator is far from it. you don't need to drain the oil but do drain the coolant before taking the oil cooler off to avoid any coolant spilling into the oil chamber as the cooler comes off.
How did you get that whacky gasket back it?
Lick it and stick it! The oil cooler is obviously flat so we need to seat the gasket in the engine then place the cooler on it.
Hello does anyone know what can cause coolant fluid between where transmission and engine meet? It’s also leaking black oil from there.... 2006 sprinter 2500.... thanks in advance for any possible feedback that might help!!
Having the same problem but I’ve got a couple questions before I tackle this. Do you need to do anything with the oil when flushing since it’s mixing in with the coolant system? And to do the flush do you just go through the coolant overflow and out the egr? How many flushes did it take? My overflow is pretty much black(darker then chocolate milk)
The oil pressure in the cooler is much higher than water pressure in cooler so oil typically goes into the water, not the other way. BUT... since your water is very oily and the oil is apparently very black I would give it an oil change soon after flushing and fixing. Flush by removing the bottom radiator hose. This will let the water "flush" out like an airplane toilet and pull oil with it. Flush with water and Dawn dish soap. "Dawn", not whatever your mom has. (hehe) LOTS of Dawn in the first flushes and less Dawn in the last few flushes. Flush it as many times as you can bring yourself to do it, minimum FIVE. Warm the engine by driving every time. Idle in the driveway wan't warm it fully or quickly. Drain the water as hot as you can without burning yourself. As the radiator cools oil will stick to it, inside.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you! Also since The oil cooler failed should I do flush before or after new cooler. If I do it before new cooler won’t the oil just keep mixing with coolant when the engine is warm?
@@connorpetersen8392 Yes, fix the failure then clean the mess it made.
There is a schematic of the cooling fluid shown in this video that is also posted in sprinter-source forum that I have a question about. Why does it show flow through the heater core before the heater control solenoid valve. Shouldn't the flow go through the T joint to the solenoid valve then continue back to the engine. Then as the heater cycles it opens at the solenoid off and on letting fluid into the heater core and exiting to the T joint. The arrows flow wrong direction it seems. What does anyone think. posting a correct flow schematic would be nice.
The graphic is correct. The valve is after the core, which seems wrong but when the valve blocks water from exiting the heater core no fresh hot water can be drawn into the core, so it works as expected despite the late placement of the valve.
I have same problem.
I went to my local auto store and it it $200 .
How this one you recommend work for yall guys thanks ?????
This video was made years ago and the van has not had any related issues since.
Hi my name is Gabriel I have 2006 Sprinter Diesel, Temperatures around here I’ve been in the mid 40’s, for the past week I have noticed that The van works fine until the engine temperature goes above 150 Fahrenheit then goes into limp mode,Also I have noticed that I have a fuel leak behind the tank where the cooling coils are for the fuel it looks like it’s coming from a lot WYE connection I was wondering if the fuel coil thermostat could be causing The limp mode if there’s an obstruction in the cooling lines, I have replaced fuel pressure regulator on the rail and fuel pressure regulator sensor at the front of the rail still does the same exact thing
I know those coils can rust and leak at the Y-joint/valves. I've not seen one blocked and don't know how/why that would trigger a limp mode. Some of our vans don't have the Y and only half the coils. And maybe back pressure here would cause rail pressure too high. I suspect any obstruction would be in the Y, not the tube. If I had a leaking one and didn't have easy access to a parts-van, I would put in a simple T and see what happens.
Thank you I will replace the wye fittings ( 3/8 diameter?) What I was actually thinking as well to see if I could bypass the fuel thermostat and see when the engine warms up if it still goes into limp mode
@@gabipanaite9258 Avoid brass if you can, and get stainless steel. Biodiesel blend is hard to avoid, and the bio will make brass brittle in a year or two. It dissolves the zinc from within the brass, leaving a fitting that will weep and look wet all day, every day.
Super
Did you see Coolant I the oil or just oil in Coolant reservoir
If caught early it will be only oil in the coolant but... every time we shut off the van the oil pressure drops immediately and the coolant system remains pressurized while hot, so a bit of antifreeze will get into the oil side (theoretically).
"caught it just in time" to prevent what? what would happen if you didn't catch and address this? i've got gravy in my cooler of a 2005 sprinter 250k miles, but the coolant level is low. i've had to add coolant twice in about 800 miles. i've got white smoke out the exhaust that's heavier at higher RPM. there is wet/oily soot built up around my oil cooler and on my air intake temp sensor. also wet soot at hose connections to my turbo (just found a wet sooty crack in hose to turbo at the clamp that i will epoxy in the morning) and at hose connections to my radiator. any suggestions would be much appreciated as your posted videos are, too. i do have a second van to swap parts btw. have you yet resolved 2blue's smoking problem?
2Blue got a replacement engine from a you-pull junk yard. We were looking for seats and fond an engine that looks too good to pass-up.
Gravy in the radiator can be a oil cooler, but the smoke you describe combined with oil in the rad suggests a blown head gasket or crack in the head. These issues are what we avoided by catching the oil cooler early. The oil in the coolant gets foamy and blocks small passages the coolant should be flowing. This will cause the engine to overheat in some areas while the flowing coolant is still at acceptable temperature. it just cuts-off cooling to parts of the engine and bad things happen from there.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you! i just bought ya couple gallons of coffee. upon further inspection, my coolant is only slightly murky and not foamy, so maybe it doesn't have oil in it? i replaced the cracked hose to the turbo and the EGR valve/gasket, and the result is much improved smell and little smoke. i do have this black liquid inside my intake manifold/hose and even some on my turbo. must it be engine oil or could it be soot + coolant from a leaking EGR? Two more quickies about my 2005 sprinter 250k miles: how do i know if my DPF is clogged or needs work? also, i have one code that appears immediately after erasing and starting vehicle "U0423 Invalid Data Received From Instrument Panel Control Module." where is this module and is it likely faulty? or could it be something screwy like my climate/fan controls that don't quite fully function?
@@data_Dj Thank you for the coffee and support! Sounds like a cracked hose was making things oily, so that is fixed. Motor oil in the turbo lines is perfectly normal. The crankcase breather vents into the turbo input, so that vapor collects in the intercooler & boost passage. The best news is our 2005 Sprinters do not have DPF so that will never need work.
Now the hard stuff: U0423 is usually a wire problem between the dash display and the ambient air temperature sensor near the front license plate. Does your dash board display a proper temperature when toggled with the time display? The wires are sometimes damaged doing work around the radiator and they sometimes fall victim to rodent chewing. Occasionally the sensor itself will fail, or the dash cluster. I've read of bad fuse connection near the top of the fuse block, so giving a little love-tap would be a fair test. Checking all fuses is always a must when looking for electrical gremlins. Even when we know they are good.... sometimes they aren't! So I take them out, one-by-one, and put the back. It is tedious task but takes only a few minutes.
@@data_Dj Two more things: The dash display we are discussing is the speedometer, odometer and gauge display, not the climate controls. Those are a separate issue and not related to your code. If your fan is working only on highest speed, we have a video for that with link to $12 repair part. ruclips.net/video/cXmYsW4iozc/видео.html
If the heat doesn't turn off, we have a video for that too.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you! more coffee your way. my dash does not display any temperature, rather it displays "---", so i will look at the wiring and the ambient air temp sensor. additionally, both of your climate controls videos are applicable to my sprinter, so thank you again. one more thing: how much smell and fume is ok? i no longer have the smoky exhaust, but it's stinky around the van when running - maybe just stinky like any diesel engine but i'd like to know what's too stinky to ignore. it's also a little stinky inside the van when running. anything besides the cabin air filter that i should plan on fixing?
I didn't see the hose in the description. I think it's this part: Oil Cooler Coolant Hose (T1N) 6112030582 46551
Where did you end up ordering from?
MillionMileSprinter.com has the OEM oil cooler and also an upgraded thicker oil cooler as well as hose kits.
is it possible to do without draining the whole system?
No, you need to get as much oil out of there as possible. Lots of Dawn dish detergent (cuts grease) and many flush and refills with more Dawn. Minimum 3 complete flushes... and that is short-cutting. Water, not anti-freeze in the fill/run/flush/repeat. Do not pour cold water in a hot engine. Patience patience patience...
Gotta drain the coolant yeah, but does this affect your oil level? Does that need to be drained before removing the oil cooler?