Pro Painter Schools Me on How to Paint Cars!
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2023
- In this Episode I collab with @kandyman5315 and he shows me the correct way to paint cars in a professional aspect in order to turn profits and be much more efficient! Make sure to check out his channel and subscribe!
Kandy Man: / @kandyman5315
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Авто/Мото
Great video! I laughed, I cried, and I overthought paint
I laughed too hard. Great times !
Right now I'm a junior car painter and I'm visualising myself to be a pro someday.I won't stop until I reach my goal.focus,hard work and GOD.
I think one tidbit that was not mentioned in this video is kandyman's bake system. That alone speeds up flashing and curing times to get jobs in and out a whole lot faster. Also, his technique is so precise. watching him spraying and go straight across those parts and not deviating at all on his pattern or overlap. it brought a tear to my eye.
He is the best
Kandyman! Top notch painter for sure ! I’m glad you guys collaborated on this one!
Love collaborations👍👍👍
I call him dread head. His work like yours, is top notch. You’re both great teachers.
Great idea to paint parts individually, especially if you have hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of stands!
Good to see some water based jobs, my cousin is a professional painter and he loves the water based paints over solvent.
Kandyman did a great example of not forcing the paint into places and trusting the paint to get to where it needs to go by just keeping his gun 90 degrees to the paint surface. great collaboration, next is Curry👍
Wish you devote a video to types of fillers, how to mix them, and what to you use where and when. Then how to fix holes with fiberglass. Just something different. How to deal with rotted floor pans. Rotted gutters by the trunk. How to check a car for bad paint and damage hidden when buying a car. How to spot botch repairs qhen someone trying to sell you a car.
I admire the both of you love the combination and the good vibes between good painters you guys let me love this trade more and more everyday nuff respect 🙏
Lower, I have the dv1 base and the clear gun. I have never laid metallics down so smooth until I shot them at 12 psi, and my clear is usually at 15psi until the final coat then I hit 18psi.
the best appearance is using water base as solvent requires more base coats which leads to more texture.
Great video.. Both methods have a place. Being I do mostly full restorations these days, all my vehicles are already in parts.
Hell no was not expecting this, couldn't believe my eyes. I've learned a lot from both these guys for sure.
I’m in love with that shade of red. Wow.
That would look nice on my VFR
Definitely the way to go. Saves a ton of masking time and materials. Just have to be super careful on assembly.
Finally...
I have been subbed and watching from early on, and always wanted to tell you to take the cars apart!!!...no tape lines!!! Better for edges just a better job all together.
Brian and kandy man are the cream of the crop I hope brian will bring the spedokote guy sometime !!
Amazing to see two extremely knowledgeable painters at work.
I wish I could find a shop/person like this in Los Angeles area, anybody?
Love the KANDYMAN! Huge fan! Def a pro
Great video and collaboration! Just subscribed to Kandyman 🎉💯🔥
I had no idea how amazing the water based paints look, flow and lay on a panel 😯. Seems to cover well ... We need and want that shirt 👕"Brian" .
Another awesome job by the Kandy man
I’m an ex painter in the UK, and it’s great to see water based paints so advanced now.
I first tried water based paint way back in 1990, and they were a god awful nightmare, recalling that a solid topcoat took nearly 3 days to dry, and included trying to bake the paint.
When you have a bad experience of something like that, you tend to dig your heels in, and refuse to use them.
It was around another fifteen years before I tried them again, and found the product far better and easier to use, but by this time I was using a basic air dry only booth.
I would try water based again, but I’m now at an age I’d rather watch someone else do it.
Kandyman is a smooth painter!
K man rocks when it comes to paint great colaboration guys
Great video! Professionals at action.
Brian can you make a video of the differences between water base and solvent base paints? Sikkens has a phenomenal water base paint and I am sore you will love it!
Great Collaboration. Thanks for sharing.
That looked like it was cut, buffed and ceramiced. What talent!!!!!
You guys make it look easy
2 of the best painters on here together what a great team up 👍 if only we had someone like you guys here in the uk to come to my shop and show me the best way to do things 👍👍 cool video guys
Thank you !
Ive been spraying water base for almost a decade now. I love the ease of use, and coverage is pretty fast with a sealer and without sealer. But in terms of overall clear finish. Ive had much better show quality clear finishes spraying solvent actually. While water base gives u more of a factory peel. And it also depends on what kind of clearcoat u use.
Im also kinda on the fence on painting all the parts off the car. Sometimes its to my advantage, sometimes its not. every situation is different. But more often than not, id rather have the parts on the car for me to paint. Alot of the bodyman i deal with dont like to take off any parts off the car if they werent paid to do it, they also have to worry about scratching the vehicles too. its something they would want to avoid.
You're completely right, it's dependant on the job you need to accomplish on that car.
It can save you a lot of money if you have a couple of cars with the same/similar colour. So the simple amount of parts you actually can paint at once is just astronomical compared to having the entire car in the booth.
Not as easy if you need to blend silver/pearls for example.
Scratching parts or the car is always something to look out for, but like Kandyman said, quality wise, it's way superior, more often than not.
Also often it's way easier on the body if you can mount the parts to a rig, so you have them at a decent height.
It's all more interesting in the professional side of this job. I assume most people watching this channel are more in the DIY/learning direction.
Factory paint has orange peel when I had collision repair done the panel, when the shop painted it came out without the orange peel, they color sanded it. It was a black car so you could see the difference.
I've only sprayed solvent since I was like 16, but the color match for PPG envirobase is making my job so much easier, at it tastes better Great vid
Very nice and quality paint job 😊 I wish my Mazda 6 could get the same treatment as the paint on it has scratches and rock chips. Question! How do you keep your paint boot dust free?
Fantastic to see the candy man and Brian together candy man is the master when it comes to paint love the channel's.
Question to the candy man what's your preference on paint manufacturers love to get opinion on the subject.
I have sprayed many lines throughout my career. The top tier lines all have their good and bad, but it's up to the painter to make it work. Hard to say my favorite just being honest
One of the best paint sweeps ive seen here
Kandyman/glassman. What a finish.
These two are celebrities to us painters 😊
Just regular people 😀
I switched to the DV1 guns from Walcom recently and I love them. I should have done it 2yrs ago
BANGER ALLERT! KANDY MAN is a beasts!
Great collaboration video !
Besides better colour matches (as most OEM are using water for some time now), and the flatter pre clear finish, the waterbase is also VERY good coverage compared to solvent base.
You do need to let it flash off well, good airflow, best applied in a downdraft booth, but you can use it at home ok with care.
A hand jet blower or fan blower is worth using.
In a booth, a couple of jet blowers on a stand is good for faster drying near booth ends, but most downdraft booths have decent enough flow for the majority of central booth areas.
Went straight for the Fuji!!
I watch both channels and in this video KandyMan looks and acts as if he has never been in front of a camera in his life.
The way he was standing there in the beginning lookin like Kandyman been huffin paint for 28 years LOL. Good video
Kandy man numero 1
Awesome video, I like to watch pros at work👍
More to come!
It all starts with the shop owner on allowing this process of painting parts off vehicles and what type of quality they want in their shop . Now he builds a team . It does have it pros and cons . His dual car booth makes it easier to produce. Prep station down draft with curtains work too . Body man may not want to take doors off for free does the owner pay them for this step ? Curious ? Also no helper which he could do even more work. Who paints if he goes out sick hurt etc? He does nice work and your channels are informative for beginner Painters and yes trust me many journeyman too . Thanks guys for the videos .
Super nice
I did this with my first paint job. Metallic and it didn’t match when I put the doors back on. Was close but not quite.
maybe a blend on those pillars new paints a touch light but great job
Hi
Im from Portugal and i follow your work, what is amazing!!
I have a question btw. For primer, i use an 1.4mm nozzle , what nozzle should i use to paint just bumpers? And a full car too?
Thanks , keep it up👌🏽
Well as a RUclips watcher of both of these guys I actually prefer the candyman's way of painting. I think he has a better perspective of how to paint a car as opposed to other guys who really don't meet up to that challenge. Of course I'm entitled to my opinion like everyone the other guy that's in this video the reason why I like him is because he explains and detail the portions you're supposed to mix. When I take away from both of is a little bit of the advice that they give
I remember reading about him in low rider mag years ago. I thought he was out of Corpus Christi?
amazing job ..
The Kandyman has a point, but imagine all the labor of having to put all those parts back together, aligning the doors again, all of the fender gaps. Most car factories don't even spray the parts separately like this... as a matter of fact, I don't even think that Ferrari does it. I'm glad that he wears a full face fresh air respirator! Brian, I REALLY REALLY WISH that you would also wear a fresh air respirator when shooting the clear!
Great video. Love the edits. Question for you. See you paint under the hood and trunk lids before. However I've seen some cars that have an almost flat or not as glossy finish under the hoods. How is that achieved to match the factory finish? Great video topic maybe.
Dry spray with the clearcoat
Brian you paint in the same exact paint booth i do Garmat 3000
What name brand clear coat was he using cause so many cheaper clear coats have fade dye back or shrink back forcing you to buff or flow coat the car for a smooth finish vs a better quality clear
My respect master, I have been following your work for a while now,so many cars, so many different paint jobs, so much experience, congratulations.My question is what would you recommend in this warm weather when the temperature is around 30 degrees and more, is it possible,for example,when it comes to painting a car, to use a medium hardener and a very slow thinner or must the hardener and thinner be equivalent and proportionate during the break between two layers?
Best regards.🙌
I'm guessing you are referring to 30 °C, for Brian that would be around 86 °F. ;)
First have a look at you technical data sheets. Those should always be available online, or you might have them printed somewhere.
At high temperatures in general go for slow thinner, you want the paint to stay open, so you can finish painting with as little overspray as possible.
Try to get the paintbooth as close to around 20 °C/68 °F as you can. Most paints are made to work best at that temperature.
Not sure what you mean by "must the hardener and thinner be equivalent and proportionate during the break between two layers?".
You are always on the safe side by not changing any mixing ratios, different thinners, whatever between your coats.
So if possible, mix one batch that is enough for both your coatings. If you need to mix more, mix it in the same ratio, same thinner.
Technically you could "slow down" the second coat, but there really isn't a significant advantage.
Speeding up the second layer will most likely result in cracks in your coating, so unless you want that as a technique, I'd advise against it.
Be carefull when applying clearcoat with slow thinner during hot weather, it tends to get a bit more fluid, so runners are a bit more of something to look out for.
ALWAYS Hated waterborne base. But it does cover AMAZING in just a one to two coats.
Great Brian, but look at the booth size!! Even makes yours look small. Most do not have a booth at all, let alone all the stands to do that many panels at once. And we do not have the numerical production rate here.
Can you show us a video what to do with the vin sticker when painting door jams. Do you remove them? Cover them with tape? Or replace with new ones? Thanks!
Can’t replace. Must tape off as clean as possible
When painting an automobile I'm short can I break it up pannel by pannel or should I be trying to clear multiple pannels I know to go past the edges to prevent build up
Kandyman looks alot like Bob Odenkirk from Better call Saul :D
Just less murdery. ;)
I am painting a car bright silver metallic. Will the shade of paint match painting all the pieces of the car separately? I plan on painting from the same batch (gallon) of paint for the entire car but I would like to do it over time in pieces. Thank you 🙏 ❤
every part would have to be sprayed the same (full coverage, # of coats, gun and settings, spray distance, booth temp, humidity, mixing ratios, reducer, direction of gun movement, overlap, type of clear coat, viscosity, orangpeal) but dont overthink it it just paint
Great video! What car is that?
It's great that you can move all those parts through, but I don't understand how it gets that much faster because I did not hear when the rest of the bodies get painted. So far I heard up to 3 sets of take off parts and no main bodies. Please help.
Can I use formula 88 as my solvent based cleaner or should I use something like prep all ?
🔥 🔥 🔥 🔥 🔥
Nice slick paint job then the bodyman scratches it putting it back together. This business is tough!!
Great video as always 👍 samcrac cameo in the intro?😊
Stay tuned 😀
i found it dangerous to do it all loose parts. why; its what you said; color difference. even when i did the doors at the same time as the body. after drying and putting them together, the color was OFF! same pressure, same reducer, same paint, same gun, but still a fail. what i do recomend is paint everything loose, but hang the doors and must of the suff in the body, and do a last base apply. then take them off again, and hit the clear coat. no worries that way. you just have to be carefull not to damage the parts or body...
What's the song playing when Kandyman starts painting?
The problem with my shop when I spray panels off the car, the body guys scratch and scuff the paint installing the panels back on. Smh
All I kept saying to myself Watching this video was well damn... damn.. damn. 💪
You always paint base / clear coat. How about acrylic enamel show some videos on acrylic enamel please I’m not confident enough to paint a basecoat clearcoat so I would like to see if you have any videos on acrylic enamel. Thank you for the time and you have a great videos.
Great advice for a shop. But for a diy guy working alone it doesn't work. Since I'm not doing it to make money I take the time to mask off and paint by sections. It's as close as I can get to doing it that way.
Hello Brian, thank you for putting out the videos. Just getting into paint work, please tell me why only a respirator is used with spraying base and a full air assist is used with clear? I appreciate any advice.
The main reason is isocyanates. That is the most dangerous chemical in car painting and is found in hardeners in the clear. Supplied fresh air is the best protection from that. Basecoats don't use a hardener.
@@mcats8 thank you sir!
Easy money!
nice paint jop.
Yo is Samcrac In this video or am I hallucinating hahaha
Hahahah 🤣
That's almost too nice. I'd be afraid to park that in a Walmart parking lot for fear that some fool would open a car door on it.
I take it in American vernacular "candy man" does not mean jeff epstein 😂🎉
bro got that tekna wide open
We use the same method at our shop and average 450 hours every pay period easily
1 booth
I still will bet money my 23 yr old Mattson atomizer pressure assisted gravity spray gun will out spray any new gun on the market..Will lay it out flatter and less dirt..Filter in cup..Small fluid nozzle with pressure assisted cup is the secret
we cant say that were the master painter coz we have different techniques and process
Must follow the candy man
Was the clearcoat EC520?
Brian you should try waterborne it’s so much easier
I have a question for Brian or anyone else who can answer. Does oem clear fail from the outside in or from the inside out? Say you have 10-15yr old car that currently the paint is in good condition. Can it be scuffed and recleared before the oxidation begins?
Well.... it depends....
A 2 coat system tends to "fail" from outside to inside. Meaning dust and dirt will slowly scratch the clearcoat. You might polish your car, or clean it. Basically everyday life eats away at the clear.
UV light can damage the colour itself. Red tends to be prone to UV light damage, and turn pale, clearcoat can chip off. That more often happens from the inside.
Little rocks will damage your paint as soon as you hit the highway, so areas like wheelhouses will have paintchippings. Those can lead to rust/oxidisation.
So technically you could just scuff and clear your car.
If you are new to this, I would advise against it though. It seems the easy way, but it's actually a bit tougher to pull off right, and chances are, you won't be as satisfied with the outcome.
No attention to edges, why pull the parts and then be too lazy to spray the edge first to make it stronger and make sure you have material on it.
Not everything that’s done is put on camera.
Painting separately is risky,because you can get colour difference :)
If the Kandyman can't then nobody can! Another great video Brian!
I’m to slow and this is my first attempt to take them off. The truck lid has already taken 2 weeks. I would be afraid putting back on would get damaged.
Taking parts off of the car really is something interesting for professionals.
It can simply increase efficency and therefore make you a lot of money, dependant on a few factors.
If you are a DIY or enthusiast I would advise to leave everything you are afraid of damaging on the car.
@@MrDuLukes if the weather ever cooperates I will be painting the front grill off the truck , hood and fender on the truck.
@@Imwright720 Usually the front fender is only held up by a few screws (phillips and/or torx). The grill often is just clipped in (which you can take off easy from behind with a small flat screwdriver), maybe a few screws aswell. So it is fairly easy to take off, doesn't take long, and makes the painting process way easier, and ups the quality big time.
Also low risk of scratching/damaging when reassembling. So take that into consideration.
Doors and hatches are the more "difficult" parts because of electronics and risk of damage.
Any way you go at it, good luck, have fun, any question let me know.
Was that Sam Crac in the back??
😀😀😀😀
Not a fan of water base its what we use at work. I love solvent water base is so forgiving a 6 yr old could spray .
Ok sir
I'd be nice if you painted a subscribers car! 😊